Having collected our seed fund of flowers, vegetables, or purchased it in a store, we think about how best to store seeds at home. Very often, flower growers and gardeners complain that their fresh seeds do not germinate, or do not germinate well, not to mention those that we buy in stores. It's a shame when you're chasing the desired variety, you find it, but the seed doesn't sprout. But everything has its reasons.

Find it at home a good place It is possible to store seeds, but you need to figure out exactly how to do it.

How is it in production?

The seed storage is a complex mechanism. IN modern world All parameters are controlled by the computer. But there is something to keep under control:

• temperature. Its optimum is from 1 to 10 ᵒC;
• humidity. No more than 60%;
• air speed. Constant ventilation;

Of course, at home we are unlikely to stand over the seeds with a thermometer and hygrometer. However, if we adhere to these parameters, our seeds will have:

• best germination percentage.
• longer shelf life;

What reduces germination time?

Before putting seeds in a storage box, jars, bags, etc. we perform the following actions:

• we select average fruits for the variety (yes, not the best, but average);
• collect seeds. We have already written about how to choose seeds - tomato and pepper;
• dry;
• pack;
• we sign.

All stages are very important, but 80% of success depends on the degree of drying.

A seed is life in miniature. It has everything, but failure to comply with the conditions destroys it.

What is standard humidity?

The progress depends on this indicator biochemical processes inside the seed. We usually store all our seeds in one place (with rare exceptions). Is it correct?

Seed growers have long established that insufficient drying in the first year can destroy 90% of the seed and leave us without a harvest and beauty in the flower garden.

So the standard humidity for seeds of different crops is different, for example, if we look at flowers, the picture is as follows:

• in lobelia - no more than 6%;
• foxgloves – 7%;
• violas ( pansies), godetia, clarkia – 8%;
• alyssum, petunias, ageratum – 9%;
• verbena, aster, balsam – 10%;
• gillyflower, zinnia, mignonette – 11%;
• salvia, morning glory, lupine – 12%;
• dahlia, mallow, gypsophila – 13%;
• chamomile – 14%;
• sweet peas, decorative beans - 15%.

As you can see, the humidity should not be high, and by increasing it we provoke a deterioration in germination.

Germination ability

Not all seeds have the same ability to germinate. Seed producers are well aware of germination times, but those who package seed material in beautiful colored bags often openly fool the consumer.

By indicating the final germination date “Best before” on the packages, sometimes the time barrier simply goes off scale. Without knowing the germination time, the consumer is “led” and left without vegetables and flowers.

Seed longevity is distinguished as:

• biological - this is the ability to germinate under certain conditions (at least one seed);
• economic (when most of the seeds germinate).

Biological germination is always higher. This is exactly what is indicated on the bags, although this is already a violation of consumer rights.

The biological germination capacity of some vegetables is as follows:

• watermelon, cucumber, melon, cabbage, radish, radish, eggplant - 10 years;
• beans, carrots, peas, tomatoes, pumpkin, beans - up to 8 years;
• parsnips, celery, parsley, dill, onions, beets, turnips, lettuce, spinach 5-6;
• sorrel, asparagus - 3-4 years.

• kochia, godetia, verbena, tagetes (marigolds), calendula, aquilegia, Drumond's phlox, delphinium, nigella, asparagus, primrose, doronicum - 1-2 years;
• purslane, rudbeckia, zinnia, viola, dahlia, cornflower, clarkia, matiola, gaillardia, geranium, tansy, milk thistle, alpine aster, Shabot carnation, castor bean - 2-3 years;
• gypsophila, mignonette, lobelia, daisy, eschscholzia, mallow, lavatera, snapdragon, lychnis - 3-4 years
• salvia, cosmos, lupine, decorative beans, bylzamin, nasturtium, Turkish cloves, petunia - 4-5;
• sweet pea, alyssum, gillyflower, cornflower, sage - 5-6 years;
• amaranth, celosia - 6-8 years;
• fragrant tobacco - 7-8 years.

But the maximum period for standard germination is 2-3 years less.

The main reason for loss of germination is high moisture content. The higher the moisture and temperature, the faster the seeds deteriorate.

What should the temperature be?

It is believed that the lower the temperature, the longer the seeds will be stored. The best conditions are a refrigerator up to – 4 ᵒC. These conditions will allow you to save the seeds of many crops for 10 years.

However, there are exceptions. Warm-season crops should be stored in a dry and warm place. So cucumber seeds remain viable in the cold for 3-4 years, but in a heated room for up to 10 years.

Temperature changes are especially harmful to seeds. With such sharp fluctuations, they quickly lose their germination capacity.

When buying seeds in stores or on the market, we don’t think about how the seeds:

• stored until packaging;
• packed;
• stored after packaging;
• transported (in summer heat +30 ᵒC, or frost -15 ᵒC);
• were stored in point of sale(shop or open air On the market).

What should I store it in?

There is an opinion that it is harmful to store seeds in plastic bags. The argument is that the seed must breathe. Meanwhile, dry seed does not breathe.

If you are faced with a choice of which bag to buy seeds in, give preference to foil packaging.

If the seeds are collected independently, then they are settled in paper bags, labeled and stored in plastic bags. Such storage will prevent the increase in humidity, and the terms will be long.

Summarizing

In order for seedlings to be productive, the following rules should be followed:

• do not buy too many seeds;
• if you have a surplus of your seeds, sell them (sell, exchange, donate, sow);
• before purchasing new seeds, check the stocks and germination capacity of those you already have;
• make purchases in specialized stores;
• choose zoned varieties;
• pay attention to the expiration date and markings on the package (manufacturer’s address, fax, telephone);
• Be sure to label the seeds of your collection with the obligatory indication of the year of collection.

Advised by Professor of the State Agrarian University of the Northern Trans-Urals Lyudmila Lyashcheva

1. Place the seeds in paper bags and label each one.
2. Place them closer to the floor in the apartment or in the basement or subfloor.
3. Monitor the temperature and humidity.

How to store collected seeds at home?

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How to store collected seeds at home? What plants can seeds be collected from, when is the best time to do this and, of course, how to prepare them for storage. Around mid-winter, many stores, garden centers and specialized kiosks begin selling vegetable and flower seeds. They can also be purchased by mail in the online store. However, every year not only the variety of varieties offered grows, but also, what is more important for buyers, their price. – Growing vegetables, flowers and herbs from seeds collected in your own garden will give you real satisfaction. – says Lyudmila Lyashcheva, professor of the State Agrarian University of the Northern Trans-Urals. – To be sure that the collected seeds will germinate well and produce healthy plants, there are a few important principles to remember. On a sunny, clear day Now is the time for these worries, since there is already snow in the garden. The main work has ended. We warn you that not all flower and vegetable seeds are suitable for collection. First of all, you need to remember that you cannot collect them from hybrid plants. The likelihood is negligible that the crops grown will be as productive and similar to the ones you liked. For example, in F1 hybrids, parental traits are not inherited; as a result, completely new varieties can be obtained with traits that differ from “mother” and “father.” Therefore, if you do not like such surprises, carefully look in advance at what you are growing: a variety or a hybrid. workshop Seed shelf life From one to two years: onions, parsley, asters, marigolds, calendula, annual phloxes, forget-me-nots, dimorphotheca. Three to four years: cabbage, radishes, radishes, peppers, eggplants, carrots, chrysanthemums, lavatera, mallows, petunias. Large seeds of peas, beans, beans, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, cosmos, nasturtium, sweet peas, celosia, amaranth, balsams, and cornflowers usually remain viable the longest. Plants that produce fruit become more productive when stored for a long time, so tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers are sown not in the first year after harvest, but at least three years later. Most root vegetable seeds are best sown fresh. The shelf life of seeds of green and aromatic crops expires especially quickly. Houseplants and ornamental perennials are sown immediately, immediately after purchase. It is imperative to collect seeds at the stage of full maturity. It is no secret that their good “health”, storage and germination greatly depend on the weather conditions in which they not only grew, but were also collected. Thus, the optimal time for collecting seeds is a clear sunny day, before which there has been no precipitation for a long time. If, nevertheless, the seeds are a little unripe and the weather is humid, then you can ripen the seeds in a well-ventilated, airy room, placing them on paper sheets or small bowls and saucers, stirring occasionally. Comfortable temperature for seed ripening – +20 – 24°С, for drying – +30 – 35°С. Not polyethylene, but paper. Tyumen gardeners have already collected the seeds. Let's prepare them for long-term storage. Carefully remove the seeds, collected and cleared of fruit pulp, laid out on paper to dry, and dry them thoroughly for several days. There are seeds that are simply cleaned of remaining stems and all sorts of debris and placed in paper bags. It is advisable to sign each bag: there should be information about the type of plant, date and place of collection, date and place of sowing. note Seeds of lavatera, cosmos, ageratum, morning glory, and gaillardia can be collected either unripe or fully prepared, and the germination rate remains very high. There are many cases where the same crop variety does not reduce its yield for decades. In the spring you can check it for germination and wait for large ripe fruits. This is especially convenient if you are going to grow seeds for sale or exchange them with other gardeners. It is better not to store seeds in plastic bags, they will quickly suffocate there. Remember that seeds are living organisms, a special multicellular structure of a complex structure that serves for reproduction and dispersal seed plants. To store seeds, it is better to use bags made from a regular sheet of paper. As they say, cheap and cheerful, and most importantly - very fast. In order for the seeds to germinate normally, it is better not to store them for more than 2–4 years. This is especially true for most annuals. The viability of seeds also depends on the genetic characteristics of the species. This is due to the structure of the peel. If the seed is in a “box”, it is more difficult to open, and the shelf life of the germination qualities is longer. Heat-loving species require early sowing and forcing of seedlings under cover, which is removed in the second half of May, planting them in a permanent place. Other seeds can be sown directly into the ground. In addition, some varieties of flowers growing in the flower bed next door can be cross-pollinated, for example, petunias. However for experienced gardeners This is not a problem: they use protective gauze caps for the flowers intended for collecting seeds, pollinating these flowers by hand. Or you can simply plant one type of flower at a time in a flowerbed. In this case, cross-pollination does not threaten the flowers. The seeds feel good at a temperature of +15 – 20°C. Silica gel for seeds Where is the best place to store them? It can be done in any room, just not in the kitchen, where there are frequent changes in humidity and temperature. Place them close to the floor, in the bottom drawers of closets, under the bed. If there are a lot of seeds, place them in a basement or subfloor where the temperature is constantly low. If you are concerned about rodents and excessive dampness, place the seeds in jars with hermetically sealed lids. Additional protection Moisture can cause silica gel. You don’t even have to buy it: grains of synthetic material that absorbs moisture from the air can be found in boxes along with new shoes from the shop. Place a few of these grains in each jar, and they will take away excess moisture. Read more: What country work to do in the last month of autumn? How to properly store the harvest?

What plants can seeds be collected from, when is the best time to do this and, of course, how to prepare them for storage

Protect seeds from excess moisture || Photo from website: yandex.ru

Around mid-winter, many stores, garden centers and specialized kiosks begin selling vegetable and flower seeds. They can also be purchased by mail in the online store. However, every year not only the variety of varieties offered grows, but also, what is more important for buyers, their price.

Growing vegetables, flowers and herbs from seeds collected in your own garden will give you real satisfaction. - says Lyudmila Lyashcheva, professor of the State Agrarian University of the Northern Trans-Urals. - To be sure that the collected seeds will germinate well and produce healthy plants, there are several important principles to remember.

On a sunny clear day

Now is the time for these worries, since there is already snow in the garden. The main work has ended.

We warn you that not all flower and vegetable seeds are suitable for collection. First of all, you need to remember that you cannot collect them from hybrid plants. The likelihood is negligible that the crops grown will be as productive and similar to the ones you liked.

For example, in F1 hybrids, parental traits are not inherited; as a result, completely new varieties can be obtained with traits that differ from “mother” and “father.” Therefore, if you do not like such surprises, carefully look in advance at what you are growing: a variety or a hybrid.

workshop

Seed shelf life

• From one to two years: onions, parsley, asters, marigolds, calendula, annual phlox, forget-me-nots, dimorphotheca.
• Three to four years: cabbage, radishes, radishes, peppers, eggplants, carrots, chrysanthemums, lavatera, mallows, petunias.
• Large seeds of peas, beans, beans, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, cosmos, nasturtium, sweet peas, celosia, amaranth, balsams, and cornflowers usually remain viable the longest.
• Plants that produce fruit become more productive when stored for a long time, so tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers are sown not in the first year after harvest, but at least three years later.
• Most root vegetable seeds are best sown fresh. The expiration date of seeds of green and aromatic crops expires especially quickly.
• Houseplants and ornamental perennials are sown immediately, immediately after purchase.

It is imperative to collect seeds at the stage of full maturity. It is no secret that their good “health”, storage and germination greatly depend on the weather conditions in which they not only grew, but were also collected.

Thus, the optimal time for collecting seeds is a clear sunny day, before which there has been no precipitation for a long time.

If, nevertheless, the seeds are a little unripe and the weather is humid, then you can ripen the seeds in a well-ventilated, airy room, placing them on paper sheets or small bowls and saucers, stirring occasionally. Comfortable temperature for seed ripening is +20 - 24°C, for drying - +30 - 35°C.

Not polyethylene, but paper

Tyumen gardeners have already collected the seeds. Let's prepare them for long-term storage.

Carefully remove the seeds, collected and cleared of fruit pulp, laid out on paper to dry, and dry them thoroughly for several days.

There are seeds that are simply cleaned of remaining stems and all sorts of debris and placed in paper bags. It is advisable to sign each bag: there should be information about the type of plant, date and place of collection, date and place of sowing.

on a note

• Seeds of lavatera, cosmos, ageratum, morning glory, and gaillardia can be collected either unripe or fully prepared, and the germination rate remains very high.
• There are many cases where the same crop variety does not reduce its yield for decades. In the spring you can check it for germination and wait for large ripe fruits.

This is especially convenient if you are going to grow seeds for sale or exchange them with other gardeners.

Summer chores are long over; the seeds have been collected, dried, and stored. All that remains is to save them. There is a long winter ahead, and not all seeds will survive it, but there are storage methods in which germination is practically not lost.

Why do you need to collect and store seeds yourself? Today there are so many stores that seem to have everything.

• Firstly, you can be sure that you are planting exactly what you need.
• Secondly, your own seeds mean significant savings.

What determines the safety of seeds?

Seed moisture

This is, of course, the most important factor that affects the safety of seeds. If the humidity is high, the seeds can germinate, become moldy, and even simply rot. That is why absolutely dry material is stored for storage. At home, seeds are poured onto paper to dry and left in a well-ventilated area.

Seed storage temperature

The higher the temperature, the more actively the seeds respire. And if they breathe, that means they can germinate. Ideal temperature regime– about 12-16 degrees. Storing seeds of many plant species at room temperature can lead to complete loss of germination.

Marigolds, zinnias, and asters will suffer the same fate. But it is better not to place the seeds of lettuce and some types of exotic greens in the refrigerator: on the contrary, they need warmth. After cool storage, they will most likely go to waste.

Purity

Try to store only clean seeds, without additional debris, otherwise they will be in danger of rotting and being damaged by seed pests.

Air

All living things need air, but seeds need it only in very limited quantities. Therefore, they try to remove almost all the air from the bags. The only exception is large legume seeds. They are stored in linen bags or ordinary jars.

Darkness

Light stimulates growth, so seeds should be stored in complete darkness. Until it's time to plant. Therefore, it is quite fair to say that at this stage darkness is the friend of the harvest .

Where to store seeds?

You can store seeds in almost any room, but the kitchen is the worst place for this purpose: there are too frequent changes in humidity and temperature.

Seeds collected with your own hands can be packed in film and paper. But it’s best to put it in jars or containers with airtight lids. To avoid excess moisture, put a few grains of silica gel in each container (small bags of it are in every shoe box and more).

A cellar or basement is good for storage; in an apartment, place the seeds somewhere under the bed, closer to the floor, where it is cooler than, for example, on a closet.

How to store seeds?

Don’t be lazy and label all the bags. You'll see, this will significantly reduce the loss of planting material just because you won't be able to remember what kind of seeds they are.

It is convenient to arrange the bags of seeds according to the principle of when to plant what. Some gardeners manage to seal seeds into the pages of photo albums, accompanied by appropriate inscriptions. Plastic containers are also good for storing small items. As well as ordinary glass jars with a screw cap.

Do the seeds have a limited validity period?

Another important note on the bag of your own seeds is the month and year they were collected to monitor future germination.

• The least stored seeds are onions, carrots, marigolds, asters, parsley, calendula and annual phlox. All of them do not lose germination only in the first, or maximum second, year;
• The seeds of cabbage, radishes, radishes, eggplants and peppers, petunias, mallow and lavatera will last three to four years;
• Large seeds are stored the longest, up to 5-7 years. These are the seeds of peas, beans, beans, nasturtium, beets, sweet peas, pumpkin, zucchini, as well as balsams, gillyflowers, and cornflowers.

At first glance, it turns out to be a little complicated so many criteria and conditions for proper storage of seeds so that they do not lose their viability and do not rot in the end. But it only seems so. All the rules are simple and logical and will quickly become a habit. And you will always have excellent quality seeds on hand. Now only them will remain.

Most growers, summer residents, gardeners, both experienced amateurs and just beginners, often face serious problems and questions. These questions relate to gardening activities themselves, one of the most important issues– storage of seeds. It may seem stupid to store seeds of one type or variety for a long time, but experienced growers will immediately say that purchasing before the season itself is not a good idea. It often happens that a gardener gives preference to a certain variety, which in practice has proven its advantage by growing it from year to year.

However, seed storage and compliance with many factors and subtleties have always played a key role in such an important matter. Here you will find out whether it is possible to store seeds in the refrigerator. Before you begin to directly carry out the assigned tasks, you need to be quite accurately and clearly aware of the nuances of storing and growing seeds. Let's consider what conditions affect storage, and under what conditions and temperatures seeds can be stored.

The main factor to remember during storage is seed moisture. Humidity is key to the future germination of your seeds, and during storage, wet seeds can germinate, develop a number of negative effects, such as mold, or simply rot. It is best to dry the seeds with paper in a warm, ventilated place before sending them for long-term storage. As for storing in the refrigerator, you can store most seeds in the cold. The main thing is to maintain the absence of humidity. You can contribute to this in different ways. For example, when storing hemp seeds, you can place them in a bag of white rice, which has amazing moisture-absorbing properties.

Low temperature greatly facilitates long-term storage, since the temperature itself affects the processes inside the seeds. They respire, quickly oxidizing the nutrient reserves inside them. This process can be caused by the presence of seeds in high temperature. Cold temperatures promote long-term storage of seeds that were not planted this year, saving them for next year. summer season. Being in a dry, cold place, the seeds will not lose their own qualities, maintaining their properties, being viable in next year. This practice is ideal for storing seeds in winter. Various seeds are very finicky, and therefore you need to know exactly in what conditions, you can store seeds at sub-zero temperatures.

The most the best option for long-term storage of seeds there will be a slight coolness of 12 to 16 degrees Celsius. It is enough to simply leave them at the dacha, having previously protected them from attacks by rodents and other pests. But is it possible to store all the seeds in the cold? Definitely not. Certain seeds, such as hemp, cannabis, or asters, carrots and onions, thrive in cold environments, but other seeds, such as lettuce, can be damaged by cold, to the detriment of the future harvest. Always check at what temperature to store the seeds so as not to harm them. Try to keep the seeds clean, avoiding the penetration of various debris and other impurities. This can lead to contamination, followed by rotting, which will lead to the complete loss of harvested seeds. Carefully monitor the preservation of seeds, observing all conditions. Seeds also need air to breathe, but in extremely small doses.

When storing in bags, try to remove all air unless you are dealing with large seeds such as legumes, which last longer due to air circulation. Such seeds are stored in open jars in dry, warm places. It is important to store seeds in complete darkness, since light allows the seeds to germinate, which is extremely undesirable during long-term storage.

Having dealt with the question of whether it is possible to store seeds at sub-zero temperatures, you should pay attention to additional conditions for more quality storage seeds Metallized bags preserve the ability of seeds to germinate well. The presence of such packaging can guarantee the preservation of the properties of the seeds, even if the expiration date has been completely expired. The main thing is that the bag is completely sealed. When air enters, the seeds will begin to breathe, losing germination. Try to use them as soon as possible after opening the package. You should not expect similar quality of germination preservation from ordinary paper bags.

Before the start of the season, usually in the spring, such seed packets can be purchased from any seller. As a rule, they do not comply with temperature conditions, which significantly affects the seeds themselves, and as a result, leads to the cultivation of a completely unsuitable crop. This is why the practice of storing seeds long before the new season is so common. Thanks to this, you are confident in your own future harvest.

Can seeds be stored in the refrigerator? Undoubtedly. However, it never hurts to know alternative methods storage It is possible to save seeds in any room or space, with the exception of the kitchen, since this is where temperature changes most often occur. It is possible to store seeds in paper or plastic bags. You can use a film that does not allow moisture, but allows air to pass through. Try to use it in places with humid air. It is most comfortable for the seeds to be located close to the floor, because the temperature there is always lower, creating a favorable background for long-term storage.

Very comfortable to hold a large number of seeds in basements and cellars, since the temperature there is consistently low. To protect them from pests, dampness and other things, place them in jars with the lid tightly closed, creating a tight seal inside. You can use third-party protection elements - silica gel, or the mentioned white rice. They have the properties of absorbing moisture in the air, which will ensure its absence in storage jars.

Try to be systematic when storing seeds. You can put it into files and sort it. It will be most convenient to label bags or jars with the specified type of crop for which it will be used in the future gardening season. Like everything else in the world, seeds have expiration dates. Try to accurately record the year of purchase to avoid sowing expired seeds. Depending on the culture, the expiration date will vary. Some seeds have a minimum period of one or two years. Others can stretch out all four. Some seeds give a rich harvest just after long storage, while others need to be grown quickly before they lose their properties. Carefully study the purchased seeds to determine for yourself the shelf life and suitability. Try to prepare purchased seeds well for long-term storage, using all the methods mentioned. And then, bountiful harvest, good germination, fruitful work in the garden will be ensured. Look in detail, study the characteristics and characteristics of the seeds in order to know exactly under what conditions they are best stored.

Seeds vegetable crops When properly stored, they remain viable for quite a long time and at optimal temperatures have good germination energy. However, vegetable growers are often faced with the fact that the sown seeds do not sprout.

The main reason is improper storage: either the seeds were stored longer than they can remain viable, or the storage conditions were unfavorable. Seeds of different crops and varieties are stored differently.

Watermelon and melon seeds can be stored for 6-8 years; beans, peas, beans - 5-6; rutabaga, turnips, cabbage and Brussels sprouts, radishes, radishes, beets and chard, tomatoes - 4-5; eggplants - 3-5; onions, lettuce - 3-4; carrots, rhubarb, spinach, sorrel - 2-3, pepper - 3; dill - 2-5; parsnip, parsley, celery, rhubarb - 2; zucchini, squash, pumpkin - 6-7; corn - 7 years. Cucumber seeds remain viable for about 8 years. The most productive seeds are 2-4 years old.

To ensure that the seeds do not lose their quality within the specified period, they must be stored correctly. Fresh seeds need to be heated, then they will produce more female flowers and, therefore, the harvest will be better. Optimal temperature for storing seeds 0-5° C. At the same time, air humidity should not exceed 55%, that is, the room should be dry. Particularly dangerous for seeds are temperature fluctuations that lead to increased humidity. Even slight subzero temperatures can cause some seeds to spoil (cucumbers are especially affected). When storing seeds in ordinary room conditions you need to ensure that the air temperature does not exceed 18 ° C, as they dry out. Seeds of annual and biennial crops are stored for a considerable time. There is no point in storing seeds of perennials (sorrel, rhubarb, perennial onions): by the time it is necessary to resume planting, the germination rate of the seeds may be too low.

For long-term storage, you need to put seeds grown in warm and dry years (they are better stored, and plants grown from them have better characteristics). Unripe seeds or seeds from unripe fruits are not stored for a long time (for example, the germination rate of tomato seeds from brown or green fruits that were ripened in the room is initially approximately 95-98%, after 2 years it decreases significantly). Seeds of early-ripening varieties, compared to late-ripening varieties, lose their viability faster during storage.

You cannot store wet seeds, as well as seeds mixed with pulp or chaff, which easily absorb moisture from the air. Only large, full seeds should be selected for storage. Small and puny seeds lose their viability faster and produce bad harvest. Seeds with low germination should not be stored for storage: when sowing, they need to be used more than usual, and the emerging plants give a poor harvest.

Before storing seeds, you need to clean them of impurities, determine their germination capacity and dry them to the required moisture content. Usually the seeds are dried during the collection period, and then dried before storing. Despite the fact that when harvesting the seeds had to go through all these procedures, before storing them they must be repeated and the small ones removed.

To clean the seeds tomato, you need to pour them into a tight bag (fill it 1 / 3 volume) and grind them for 5-8 minutes. In this case, the stuck together seeds, pulp and part of the hairs are separated. If further stuck together specimens are not found, the seeds are poured into a 5% solution of table salt (5 g of salt per 100 g of water). The volume of the solution should be 3 times greater than the volume of seeds. Mix everything thoroughly and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. The floating puny seeds and pieces of pulp must be drained along with the salt solution, and the remaining ones at the bottom should be rinsed well with water and dried, spread out in a thin layer. The seeds are dried in a dry room at a temperature of 25-30 ° C for 2-3 days, then poured into a bag.

Seeds pepper They are selected manually, the weakest and lightest ones are removed. Seeds eggplant, like tomato seeds, they are first ground in a bag and then passed through a saline solution. Seeds carrots, parsley also rub with hands in a bag for 5 minutes, while spines and cilia are removed. The ground seeds are winnowed, placed in a 5% saline solution and mixed. The seeds are immature and float with low germination. They are drained together with the solution, and those that have settled to the bottom are washed with water and dried. The seeds are also cleaned pumpkin, cucumber, zucchini and melon. When rubbed, they acquire a smooth, shiny surface, and adhered pieces of pulp are removed.

To remove seeds peas, damaged by bruchus, or beans with bean moth, use a 33-35% solution of ammonium nitrate. Seeds damaged by pests float, they are drained along with the solution and brewed in it, and those that have settled to the bottom are washed clean water and dry.

Seeds watermelon sort, removing weak and insufficiently colored ones. You can remove puny seeds manually pumpkin, zucchini and squash. Seeds cabbage first pass through a round sieve with holes 1.5 mm in diameter. All small seeds are discarded, those remaining on the sieve are passed through a saline solution, washed and dried. Seeds are also sorted rutabaga and some other crops. Do not forget that cabbage plants have varieties with seeds smaller than 1.5 mm, and in dry years all varieties develop small seeds. In such cases, use a sieve with cells of a smaller diameter. For sorting seeds radish and radish A sieve with holes with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm is suitable; puny seeds are separated from them. Seeds dill, lettuce and parsnip cleaned of debris (bad seeds are separated) by winnowing them in the wind or using a fan. To clean the fruit beets, You need to glue a fleecy fabric onto a small board or thick cardboard and lift it at an angle to create a slope along which the beet balls will roll. Impurities are retained on the fabric. Seeds can also be sorted by hand.

Immediately after cleaning, the sowing properties of the seeds stored for storage should be determined. This is easy to do at home. Place damp gauze on the bottom of a plate or saucer (maintain humidity) to provide the seeds with the moisture necessary for germination. Seeds are laid out in rows on gauze: small - 100 pieces, medium - 50, large - 25 pieces. They need to be covered with the same gauze on top and then with a saucer. The seeds of almost all vegetable crops germinate well at 18-20°C, only lemon balm requires a temperature of 35°C, and for onions and spinach - 15-20°C. Every day, the seeds should be viewed, counted and those that have produced roots removed. When the germination period ends, you need to determine the total number of sprouted seeds and calculate germination. For most vegetable and herb crops, seed germination time is 10 days; for anise, eggplant, coriander, borage, pepper, parsley, rhubarb, spinach - 15; for oregano, lemon balm, parsnip, celery, dill - 20 days. Seed germination rate of more than 90% is excellent result 80 is good, and 60-80% is satisfactory. Seeds with satisfactory germination are stored only for the next crops and in cases where there are no better ones. If they are stored in open containers, germination is checked annually 1.5-2 months before sowing in order to discard those for which it has decreased.

The easiest way to store seeds is in a room or pantry, in paper bags or cloth bags. It is simple, but unreliable, since significant fluctuations in temperature and air humidity are possible in the room. In addition, the seed material absorbs moisture from the air and, as a result, loses its germination capacity. The higher the temperature and humidity, the faster the seeds lose their viability, so seed material with a moisture content of no more than 9% is stored in this way. You can determine the approximate moisture content of tomato, pepper or cucumber seeds by breaking the seed. If this fails and the seed bends, then the humidity exceeds 10%. At open method During storage, it is necessary to remember that the lower the moisture content of the seeds before planting, the less they absorb moisture from the air. Seeds should not be stored in an unheated shed.

Paper bags for packaging seeds intended for storage are made similar to those in which pharmaceutical powders are stored. It is better to place large quantities of seeds in cloth bags. On the package with a simple pencil or ballpoint pen write down the name of the crop, variety, year of cultivation, germination capacity and seed weight. Bags should not be filled too tightly. To protect them from mice, they are placed in metal or wooden box, but do not close it hermetically. The seeds are examined once a month. If mold or other manifestations of high humidity are found, they are dried, ventilated and placed in new containers.

For storage in hermetically sealed containers, you can use glass vials, bottles, canning jars, plastic film bags, etc. This will protect the seeds from the main enemy - high humidity. When stored in such containers, seeds should have a moisture content of less than 7%.

The most valuable seeds (onion, tomato, cucumber hybrids, as well as rare flowers such as asters) can be stored in the freezer of the refrigerator. To store small amounts of seeds, you can take glass bottles. The peeled and dried seeds are poured into a bottle, a label is placed there, a second label is glued to the bottle and placed in freezer. In such conditions, seeds can be stored for several years. If necessary, sleep required quantity seeds, close the bottle and put it in the refrigerator.

Store the seeds in a plastic bag in the room. The bag with the seeds and the label is sealed and the necessary inscriptions are made. In this way, seeds can be stored 2 times longer than usual. If you need to select some seeds from a bag, cut one of its corners, pour out the required amount of seeds, and seal the corner again.

You can store the seeds in the cellar in an airtight container. The advantage of this method is that the cellar has a constant, relatively low temperature all year round. To store seeds in the cellar, it is good to use glass jars (half-liter or liter depending on the number of seeds). The moisture content of seeds with this storage method should not exceed 5-7%. Therefore, before placing them in jars, they are dried in a dry room at 27-28 ° C, since it is not always possible to dry them immediately after collection. Dried seeds are divided into portions, the size of which depends on how many seeds of a given variety or crop are required each year. The seeds are poured into bags, on which the necessary inscriptions are made, and the bags are placed in jars. Each jar contains as many seeds of each variety as needed to grow vegetables in one year. The jars are covered with metal lids and rolled up (as in home canning), the lid is thickly greased with grease and grease, and the jars are placed in the cellar. At the same time, the respiration rate of the seeds is low, and they are not afraid of moisture.

With this method, the conditions for storing seeds are more favorable than when storing the seeds of each crop in a separate jar, since in the latter case it is necessary to open and close the jars annually, violating the gas regime, on which the preservation of the quality of the seeds depends. Banks are opened in 1.5-2 months. before sowing to check their germination.

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At the end of autumn and winter, gardeners begin to plant seeds and prepare for the next season. Already in early spring, you need to grow seedlings and plant early varieties of vegetables.

Those seedlings that were kept in appropriate conditions will produce good seedlings. Therefore, it is important to know how to store seeds correctly.

1 What affects safety?

There are several factors that influence the storage of planting material. These include:

1. Cold. The lower the degrees, the longer the seedlings do not lose their viability. Warm air promotes rapid oxidation of nutrients. Many novice gardeners are interested in what temperature seeds should be stored at. For most seeds +12-16 degrees is suitable. Some seedlings love the cold, others cannot be left at low degrees.
2. Humidity. With high humidity, seedlings can become moldy, germinate and even rot. Therefore, you need to store well-dried seeds. The room needs to be ventilated a little. Optimal humidity should be no more than 50%. For cucumber, radish, tomato, beans permissible norm - 60%;
3. Purity. No debris should get into the planting material. It can cause rotting and appear that will destroy the seedlings.
4. Air. Air currents promote seed respiration. Typically, large seeds are stored in open containers for better air circulation. This is especially true for legumes.
5. Darkness. The absence of light helps to preserve the dormancy of seeds and prevents them from germinating. Before sowing, they are stored in complete darkness.

Due to non-compliance with these factors, planting material may lose its germination properties. Main reason poor germination is high humidity. Therefore, the collected planting material is dried outdoors or indoors.

Lay out on newspaper or paper so that all moisture is absorbed. You cannot dry them under the sun, but you can dry them near a radiator. If the room is 20–25 degrees, the seeds will dry out in a few days.

1.1 How and where to store?

There are two ways to keep seeds:

1. Open. The planting material is in a container that allows moisture and air to pass through it well. Bags made from natural fabrics are suitable. They can be sewn from linen in one or two layers.
2. Closed. This method is used less frequently. It is necessary to place the planting material in a soft container made of waterproof material. The container must consist of two layers: fabric and polyethylene.

Experienced gardeners know how to properly store vegetable seeds. It is advised to place them in paper bags, and then in plastic bottles or jars. If the seeds from the purchased bag are not completely used, you can leave them in it, carefully wrapping them.

To the bottom glass jars And plastic bottles It is recommended to sprinkle a little starch or flour. They will help absorb excess moisture. The lid of the container is tightly closed. It is necessary to store planting material in the refrigerator or in a cool room.

It can also be kept in a room where there are no changes in humidity. Kitchen - no best room for this. It is advised to place the seedlings closer to the floor, in the bottom drawers of the cabinet. It is good to keep the seeds in the basement or where the air temperature is low. In this case, you will have to close the jars to prevent mice from getting into them. Seeds stored in bags or bags can become damp, so to keep them in the cellar, they are poured into dry bottles, tightly closed and stored all winter.

It is very convenient to keep planting material in plastic boxes with compartments for each type of crop. Containers or organizers for small items are suitable.

1.2 How to properly store seeds of various crops? (video)

1.3 Period of use

You can see the date by which you need to use the seeds on the packaging. It usually indicates the year of collection and class. It is necessary to know the expiration date in order to obtain full-fledged shoots. If the seeds were not planted before the specified date, their germination rate will be greatly reduced, the seedlings will get sick and be susceptible to pests.

Seeds usually last longer than stated on the package. Some gardeners buy seedlings that they received the previous year. This is especially true for dill, parsley and other vegetables with a short shelf life. Many indoor and perennials They lose their germination quickly, so they are planted immediately after purchase.

Each vegetable crop has its own seed shelf life. For example, for onions it is 1–2 years, and for tomatoes it can reach up to 10 years. Planting material for parsley and dill is stored for 2 to 3 years, and carrots and peppers for 3–4 years. The shelf life of zucchini and eggplant seeds is 4 years, radish, watermelon, beets and pumpkin - 4–5 years.

Flower seeds also have different shelf life. So, for example, aster planting material is stored less than a year, for calendula and verbena the lifespan is 1–2 years, for chrysanthemum and dahlia - 2–3 years, for milk thistle and flax - 3 years, for cornflower - 5–6 years.

There are several rules for storing seeds, which help to get a full harvest:

• seeds purchased in the winter season are immediately placed in the refrigerator or stored in a cool place. This is necessary so that condensation does not form in the bags, which increases the moisture content of the seeds;
• freshly harvested seeds germinate less well than those collected from the previous year's harvest. This applies to the northern regions of the country;
• before sowing, it is recommended to check the seeds for germination, even if they were stored in ideal conditions;
• no need to stock up planting material for future use;
• bags with seedlings should have marks indicating when to sow this type culture.

It is also important to choose the right seeds. It’s better to go to a flower or specialty store for them. It is advised to choose trusted manufacturers and pay attention to the expiration date. You need to choose varieties that are suitable for a given region, get carried away exotic plants not worth it.

It is important to know that they will not be able to retain their properties in future generations, so they will have to be purchased every season. But they are more resistant to disease and develop quickly, producing a stable harvest. The bags containing hybrid materials are marked F1.

Before you start planting seeds after " hibernation", you should familiarize yourself with the rules for removing them from dormancy, as well as how to stimulate rapid germination.

Some gardeners don’t see the point in storing seeds, because with the onset of spring you can simply go to the store and buy literally whatever your heart desires. However, sometimes the seeds of the varieties of interest (especially rare ones) are not available for sale, and in this case you have to be content with what you have. And many people collect the seeds of their favorite varieties on their own, so they need to save them until spring, safe and sound.

What determines the safety of seeds?

The safety of seeds is influenced by a huge number of factors. The main indicator of further seed germination is humidity. Seeds characterized by high humidity can quickly germinate during storage, suddenly become covered with unpleasant mold, or even begin to rot. In this regard, only thoroughly dried seed material is allowed for storage.

To a large extent, the processes occurring in seeds are influenced by the temperature of their storage. If it is too high, the seeds will begin to breathe more actively, and accordingly, the nutrient reserves in them will begin to oxidize much faster. Seeds can retain their viability only if they are stored in sufficiently cool rooms. During normal storage in warm places, seeds often partially or completely lose their viability. And if you place them on the side shelf at the bottom of the refrigerator, their germination rate remains virtually unchanged.

Slight coolness is ideal for storing most seeds, that is, a temperature in the range of twelve to sixteen degrees. But storing the seeds of onions, carrots and asters requires cold. If possible, it is better to leave them to spend the winter at the dacha. In principle, an apartment balcony would also be suitable. As for the seeds of various root vegetables and salads, low temperatures are, on the contrary, contraindicated for storing them, otherwise they will unpleasantly surprise you when sowing by early bolting, which cannot but affect the volume of the harvest.

Another important factor for storing seeds is their purity, which means the absence of debris in the seeds that can cause them to rot. The seeds should not contain various granivorous pests - they will easily destroy the reserves in just two to three months.

As for air, the seeds, of course, also need it, but it will be sufficient in very small volumes. As a rule, air is removed almost completely from seed bags. However, there is an exception here too - these are large-sized seeds (legumes, for example). Good air circulation can significantly extend their life. So for storing legume seeds ideal option Unclosed jars or bags will be placed in a dry place.

And in order to provide the seeds with deep rest, they should be stored in the dark. They will not need light until sowing, as it stimulates seed germination.

How to pack seeds

Excellent packaging for better preservation for seed germination there will be metallized bags. This type of packaging is often used by foreign manufacturers, and even after the expiration date, the seeds stored in them germinate perfectly. Seeds will be stored just as well in vacuum bags. The most common option is bags lined with film on the inside. However, this only applies to bags hermetically sealed by the manufacturer. If you use them again, the effect will not be the same. Seeds in an opened package immediately begin to actively breathe and gradually lose their viability, so they need to be used as soon as possible.

Regarding paper bags, it can be said that, although they are quite cheap, the shelf life of the seeds stored in them is usually much shorter. Moreover, such packaging cannot guarantee high seed germination and, accordingly, decent yields. It depends on your luck.

Of course, all seeds must be signed, indicating the names of the crops and their varieties, as well as the years the seeds were collected.

Where is the best place to store seeds?

In principle, you can store seeds at home in any room, with the exception of the kitchen - systematic changes in temperature and humidity in the kitchen will clearly not benefit the seeds. It is quite acceptable to pack seeds collected with your own hands in plastic bags or paper. However, in rooms with sufficiently humid air, it is still better to prefer film - while being a serious barrier to moisture, it allows a certain amount of oxygen to pass through, allowing the seeds to breathe. As a rule, seeds are placed closer to the floor, under the bed or in the bottom drawers of cabinets - the temperature below is usually lower than above.

If there are a lot of seeds, then it is best to store them in places with constant low temperature- in the underground or basement. And to protect them from excessive dampness and from mice, the seeds can be placed in small jars, the lids of which can be easily sealed. Silica gel also protects well from moisture - it can often be found in shoe and bag packaging. This synthetic material perfectly absorbs moisture from the air. If you place several grains in jars with seeds, they will quickly absorb all the excess moisture.

The summer season has come to an end, but gardeners probably still have seeds - purchased with a long shelf life and grown on their own plot - which will have to be sown in the spring. Is it possible to leave the seeds in an unheated room for the winter; will frost damage the seeds? Is it possible to store seeds in a city apartment? Let's figure out how to properly store seeds in winter.

It is important to keep the seeds in conditions that ensure the preservation of high sowing qualities.

When ripe, the seed releases water and dries out. Since life processes can only occur in aquatic environment, then as the seed ripens and dries, they fade. Mature seeds contain a dormant embryo and spare nutrients in solid form. They are very dry (12–20% humidity). The hardened seed coat surrounds them like a protective shell.

Maintaining dryness of seeds during storage is the main condition for maintaining their viability.

At what temperature should seeds be stored?

The worst enemy of dormant seeds is warm, moist air. Where it is hot and humid, seeds can lose their viability in a matter of months, and in a few weeks if there is free access to air. Sudden changes in temperature are also unfavorable for them. The ideal conditions for storing most seeds are moderate temperature (12–15°) without significant changes and moderate relative humidity (not higher than 50%).

Seeds should not be left in the winter unheated rooms on garden plots, it is better to transport them to the city, without leaving them in damp and cold for a long time. For damp seeds, shallow freezing (from 0° to -10°) is often disastrous, especially when repeatedly passing through 0°.

When deep frozen (from -15° and below), dry vegetable seeds retain their viability well, but still storing seeds at sub-zero temperatures undesirable. They fall into a state of deep dormancy and, under normal germination conditions, behave as non-germinating. To bring them into an active state, stimulating influences, such as heating, are required.

So where is it better to store seeds at home, in particular in a city apartment? It is clear that seeds cannot be stored in the kitchen due to large differences humidity. They should also not be kept in the refrigerator door, since every time the door is opened, the cold objects on it come into contact with warm air, and moisture condenses on them.

The most suitable place for storing seeds is living rooms, although conditions there are not ideal. The temperature in living rooms is several degrees higher than optimal, and when turned on central heating the air in them is too dry (relative humidity in winter is usually about 25%).

But temperature changes there are small and not sharp. In these conditions, drying out is a danger: if the seed moisture content drops below 10–12%, this leads to a rapid loss of germination. And yet we will not find a better place to store seeds than the bottom shelf of the linen closet in the living room or the bottom drawer of the desk.

Packing the seeds in plastic bags or foil, we will limit air access to the seeds and prevent them from drying out.

If you prefer to store your seeds in the refrigerator, keep them in the bottom compartment. Before sowing into seedlings, seeds stored in the cold must be activated.

Or the seeds are removed from the refrigerator in advance (a month before sowing) and kept at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, placing the seed bags in a plastic bag to prevent drying out.

Or you need a short-term warm-up in hot water- at 50-52°C for 25 minutes, which is also thermal disinfection.

The longevity of seeds of different crops varies. Under normal storage conditions, it ranges from 1–2 to 6–8 years. In particular favorable conditions seeds can remain viable much longer than the average periods indicated in the table.

The time during which seeds remain viable depends not only on the type of crop and storage conditions, but also on the weather conditions of the season in which the seeds were received. Seeds grown in warm, sunny summers last longer than those grown in cold and rainy ones.

Preparation for storing seeds and their storage are processes that are inextricably linked.

Preparing to store seeds

• It is important to remove broken and crushed seeds.
• The seeds must be clean, free of debris. It can cause rotting and pests will appear that will destroy the seedlings.
• Consider the characteristics for each type of plant. For example, before storing, coniferous seeds are cleared of resins (resinous substances lead to loss of germination), and the seeds of many plants located inside fruits and berries are cleared of pulp, the constituent substances of which have a depressing effect on the seed embryo.

Seed storage containers

Seeds are stored in open and closed ways.

Open method of storing seeds

With the open method, the seeds are kept for the entire storage period in a container that easily allows air and moisture to pass through to the seeds. Such containers are containers made of natural fabrics - linen or jute, sewn in 1-2 layers (bags, pouches, sacks, etc.).

Closed method of storing seeds

With the closed storage method, the seeds are placed in a moisture-proof container.

The soft container should have 2 layers. The top one is usually made of fabric and the inner liner is polyethylene. The moisture content of seeds in polyethylene liners does not exceed 6-9%. The polyethylene liner with seeds is tightly tied to protect against moisture penetration, and the upper fabric liner is simply tightened or tied with side ears.

Where to store seeds

The completely cleaned seeds are dried. If you intend to use them throughout the year, the humidity can be quite high (up to 80%, but it is better to stop at 50%). It is impossible to determine this indicator at home, but there is no particular need for this. The main thing is to bring the seeds to a state of flowability.

With high humidity, seedlings can become moldy, germinate and even rot.

Then they are placed in any containers of suitable size, labeled and stored in conditions of low positive temperatures, for example, in a refrigerator or in a separate cool room - no higher than 4–5 ° C.

If it is reliably known about the seeds of any plants that they retain satisfactory germination in any conditions, they can be kept outside the refrigerator. But, if there is no such information or it is unreliable, storage should only be cold. The fact is that the storage tissue of the seeds of many crops contains a large amount of oils, which at positive temperatures gradually turn into fatty acid, inhibiting germination of the embryo. The higher the temperature, the more active the process of converting oils into fatty acids, the faster the loss of germination occurs. Outwardly, this process does not manifest itself in any way. Low temperatures prevent or completely stop the transformation of oils into fatty acids and thereby preserve the ability of the embryo to develop, that is, the germination of seeds.

Relatively high seed moisture combined with low positive temperatures create conditions similar to stratification.

There are many crops whose seeds, even when stored indoors, retain high germination rates for many years. These include almost all cultivated species of the legume family, sumac, all cotoneasters and some others.

Long-term seed storage

If you need to store seeds for long-term storage (say, you want to create your own reserve fund), proceed differently.

In this case, the seeds are dried more thoroughly and for much longer: it is advisable to maintain the temperature at least 32–35°C for at least 3–4 weeks. It is these conditions that minimize the moisture content in the seeds. Then, in the same dry and warm room, they are packaged in small plastic bags or bags made of foil, from which the air is removed and tightly closed (airtight foil is preferable). The name of the crop and the year the seeds were collected are indicated on each bag and placed in freezers.

For most crops, the shelf life of seeds with this storage method is up to 20 years or more. This method not only does not deteriorate the quality of seeds, but often significantly improves their germination, shortens the time and reduces the elongation of germination characteristic of a number of crops.