Many people call the chrysanthemum the queen of autumn. This is true. Currently, there are magnificent varieties that bloom successfully in the conditions of the middle zone and even the Urals and Siberia.

All chrysanthemums can be divided into several types according to the degree of winter hardiness:

Large-flowered bouquets chrysanthemums They have large flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm. They do not tolerate wintering very well, but they are beautiful. These include the following varieties:

• Gazelle– has double white flowers.
• Anna Yaroslavna- large needle-shaped flowers of raspberry color.
• Flamingo– large double flowers of deep pink color.
• Sonechko– needle-shaped flowers of yellow color.

Small-flowered Korean chrysanthemum popularly called “oak trees”. The leaves resemble oak leaves. It winters mostly without problems, but sometimes in the complete absence of snow cover and severe frosts it can freeze out. These include the following varieties:

• Youth– has small pink flowers.
• Umka – high grade with small white flowers, as they bloom they acquire a pink tint.
• Ryzhik– flowers are medium-sized orange.

Multiflora or chrysanthemum ball– a low chrysanthemum, the bush has the shape of a ball, medium-sized flowers. Is different abundant flowering. The most unstable species for wintering, but undoubtedly one of the most beautiful. No one remains indifferent at the sight of a small bush-ball completely covered with flowers. The following varieties can be classified as this type:

• Natalie– has medium-sized double pink-crimson flowers.
• Trike White- a bush with white flowers and abundant flowering.
• Ares– small flowers of lilac-raspberry color.

Chrysanthemum flowers

Do I need to cover chrysanthemums for the winter?

weather in middle lane Russia in late autumn and early winter is very unstable. A long autumn can suddenly change to winter with severe frosts. As a rule, snow does not have time to fall by this time. The next “surprise” can come from the so-called “ice rain”, after which the ground is covered with a continuous ice crust. All this has an extremely negative effect on the wintering of chrysanthemums. Therefore, the answer to the question: “Do I need to cover chrysanthemums for the winter?” will be affirmative. This is the only way to be sure that your favorite varieties will survive the winter successfully.

When and how to cover chrysanthemums for the winter

It is necessary to cover the chrysanthemum when the ground is slightly frosty and the air temperature reaches stable sub-zero values. It is important to remember that chrysanthemum, like roses, is more afraid of getting wet than freezing. Very often, flower growers, finishing their work in the garden, close the bushes when the autumn rains are still falling and the air temperature has not reached zero. This can lead to plant death.

Preparatory work before covering chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums can be pruned after the foliage has turned brown.

They begin to prepare chrysanthemums for shelter in the second half of August. At this time, it is necessary to fertilize the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. This feeding promotes the maturation of the bark of chrysanthemum stems and thereby prepares for a successful wintering.

In mid-September flowering bushes treated with some kind of fungicide to protect against rot and fungal diseases. For treatment, any copper-containing preparations can be used (Polychom). The soil around the bush can be shed according to the instructions.

After the first fairly severe frost, the foliage and flowers on chrysanthemums turn brown. This serves as a signal to cut the stems to a height of 5 cm.

Methods for covering chrysanthemums

There are several ways to cover chrysanthemums for the winter.

Shelter in the pit. This method is more relevant in harsh climates, but can also be used in the middle zone. Before the soil freezes, a trench is dug in a high and dry place to prevent flooding with melt water in the spring. The depth of the trench should be slightly below the freezing level of the soil. The bottom of the trench is lined with dry sawdust with a layer of 20-30 cm. Then pre-dug and trimmed chrysanthemum bushes are placed on it. The root system of chrysanthemums is sprinkled with a layer sawdust up to 50 cm. Sawdust must be dry. Cover the top of the trench with boards, which also need to be covered good layer sawdust To prevent the sawdust from getting wet, spread it on top plastic film. To prevent young growing shoots from being damaged by rodents, poisoned baits are placed in the trench.

Air-dry tunnel method of covering chrysanthemums

Air-dry tunnel method. It is used if several chrysanthemum bushes are planted in one row. Covering material is applied in two layers to plastic or metal arches. So that it does not get wet from late autumn rains or during a thaw, plastic film is placed on top. It is very important to open the ends of a tunnel shelter during thaws. When the thaw gives way to persistent frosts, the sides are closed again

Shelter in open ground. You can leave flowers to winter in the open ground, having previously insulated them for the winter. How to cover chrysanthemums for the winter in this case? As noted earlier, the main thing is not to rush, wait for stable negative temperatures air and slight freezing of the soil. Many gardeners cover chrysanthemums with spruce branches, pine litter (needleweed), and fallen leaves. The disadvantage of these shelters is that they are moisture permeable. Frosts can be replaced by a thaw, snow by rain, and then moisture accumulates in the root zone of chrysanthemums, which can negatively affect the wintering of plants. In this case, it is better to use dry sawdust in a layer of 30 cm. Cover them on top with a piece of plastic film to keep them dry. To prevent the film from being blown away by the wind, we press it with something heavy.

Construction of shelters

It is necessary to begin installing the structure for air-dry shelter before the onset of stable frosts. We install metal arcs made of wire along the perimeter of the ridge, deepening them into the soil by 15-20 cm. You can use polypropylene pipes for the arcs. They can be bought in the store, they are used as tap water. The ends of the arcs are placed on wooden pegs or metal rods of suitable diameter.

To prevent the arcs from collapsing under the weight of snow like a house of cards, they are reinforced with “stiffening ribs.” To do this, attach wooden planks 2-3 cm thick to the arches with tape. The length of the planks is equal to the distance between the arches. It turns out like a mini greenhouse. The height of such a shelter should be equal to the approximate height of the snow cover. If the layer of snow is small, you can add it. We also prepare a trench for digging chrysanthemums in advance before the soil freezes. In the spring, it is advisable to shovel snow away from the burial site so that it does not flood with melt water.

Chrysanthemums overwinter best under a tunnel shelter

Features of wintering chrysanthemums in different regions

As strange as it may seem, in the conditions of Siberia, in the Urals, in Altai, chrysanthemum can winter even better than in the middle zone and in the Moscow region. This is explained by the fact that winter begins there immediately with heavy rainfall and the formation of sufficient snow cover, and is not accompanied by thaws. But they often happen very coldy with deep freezing of the soil, which can also lead to the death of chrysanthemums. Therefore, in these areas it is also necessary to properly cover them for the winter. The climatic conditions of Siberia, the Urals, and Altai are approximately the same. For successful wintering we use the following methods:

Methods of covering chrysanthemums for the winter depend on local climatic conditions.

• air-dry with additional filling of bushes with sawdust in a layer of 30-50 cm.
• storage in storage.

Preserving chrysanthemums in open ground is not advisable due to possible freezing.

The climatic conditions of the central zone and the Moscow region allow the following methods to be used:

• shelter in open ground under a layer of insulating material;
• use of air-dry shelter.

Many flower growers Lately replant chrysanthemum bushes for the winter in greenhouses covered cellular polycarbonate. After flowering, prune them and cover them with a good layer of sawdust. Some people don’t fall asleep at all, which also gives good result. But it’s better not to take risks and use additional cover. The only condition for a good winter in this case is that in the spring the greenhouse should not be flooded with melted snow. groundwater. Sawdust is removed very carefully at the end of March - beginning of April, since the young shoots are already beginning to grow and it is important not to break them.

Some gardeners use a laminate backing to cover chrysanthemums, which they buy at construction stores. This material retains heat well and is impervious to moisture. Covering in this way also gives good results.

You can get acquainted with the options for covering chrysanthemums for the winter from the proposed video material. Enjoy watching!

Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care

Eastern wisdom advises everyone who wants to live happy life, grow chrysanthemums. According to an ancient Chinese legend, a white dragon tried to encroach on the sun itself. He tore it with teeth and claws, and the sparks fell to the ground and turned into yellow flowers, which were later called chrysanthemums. They are depicted on the Japanese coat of arms, coins and seals, which does not stop Asians from making cakes and salads from it. How garden flower chrysanthemum has been known for three millennia, but interest in it is only growing.

Breeders are constantly striving to obtain as large-flowered varieties as possible, but gardeners are more attracted to small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums, as they are resistant to low temperatures, good in open ground in combination with other flowers, have high decorative qualities, bloom long and profusely almost until November. Therefore, it is not for nothing that chrysanthemum is considered the queen of autumn. In addition, it is grown in pots to decorate homes, and when cut it lasts a long time - up to 30 days, so it is ideal for bouquets.

In open ground, chrysanthemum blooms in August and delights with its lush flowers all autumn, withstands frosts down to -7 ° C. Depending on the variety, the stems reach a height of 30-80 cm and are decorated with double, semi-double and simple inflorescences of unusually varied shades.

In the northern regions of Russia it is believed that it is impossible to grow chrysanthemums in open ground, but in fact they can successfully winter with light shelter in central Russia and even in Siberia! In these areas, after cutting the stems, hemp 10-15 cm high is well covered with peat, covered with leaves and insulated with spruce branches.

Planting chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums do not like the slightest shading and moisture retention, so the place for them should be sunny and at least slightly elevated. This is a guarantee that the shoots will not stretch or change the time and period of flowering. However root system chrysanthemums are superficial, so the soil should not be overdried either.

The ideal soil for them is loose, moisture-permeable, with optimal quantity various nutrients. If the soil in the garden is dense and infertile, before planting the cuttings, add a little peat, compost or rotted manure to the soil, but do not overuse them, otherwise the flowers will grow excessively to the detriment of flowering. Add a small amount of coarse sand to the soil for drainage. The soil mixture is preferably neutral or slightly acidic.

The ideal day for planting is cloudy or rainy. In hot, sunny weather, plant cuttings in the early morning or late evening when the sun is less active. Pour plenty of water into holes 35-40 cm deep, add drainage and soil mixed with vermicompost in a ratio of 20:1. The chrysanthemum is placed and covered with earth. The roots grow parallel to the soil, so they are not buried too deep. For tall varieties additional support is required.

Immediately after planting in the ground, the first pinching is carried out - the growing point on the plant is removed. 3 weeks after planting, the upper part of the shoot with 2-3 nodes is broken off - the second pinching. The first days after planting, artificially shade the seedlings so that they do not suffer from bright sunlight. The best option will serve non-woven material, but it is advisable that it does not come into contact with the leaves

Chrysanthemum propagation

Since the variety does not retain seeds, chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings, dividing bushes, or the root shoots are separated from the mother bush.

In any case, chrysanthemums should be planted and replanted in the spring, in May, when frosts and cold snaps have passed. It is also permissible at the beginning of summer - this will not affect the development of chrysanthemums.

If you got hold of planting material closer to autumn, then plant it in the ground before September 15, so that the plants have time to take root well before the onset of frost. If you did not have time during this period, then plant the seedling in a shallow wide pot, cutting it low.

Place the container with the chrysanthemum in a dark place. warm loggia or a heated terrace, where until spring the temperature will be at 4-6 °C - this optimal conditions successful development of plants. Moisten the soil periodically throughout the winter.

From the end of February, the chrysanthemum is planted in a greenhouse and watered more often. By the end of March the shoots will have grown and it will be possible to start cuttings - cut the shoots no more than 10 cm.

Carefully plant the cuttings in a box filled with a mixture of earth, sand and humus in a ratio of 1:2:1, cover tightly with glass. After a month, the cuttings will take root and can be planted in wide containers. As soon as the danger of unexpected cold snap has passed, the mother plant and seedlings can be transplanted into the ground.

Caring for chrysanthemums

The watering regime should be moderate, in which the root system will not rot from excess moisture. This is despite the fact that chrysanthemum is quite moisture-loving. The exception is the dry period (during this, water more abundantly so that the stems do not become woody and the flowers do not lose their decorative appearance) and the period before flowering. It is better to take settled or rain water.

Once a week, “feed” the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding - with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers for lush flowering, sometimes with nitrogen fertilizers for increasing green mass. Stop feeding before flowering begins. When fertilizing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not get on the leaves and cause a burn. Water only at the roots. For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to provide a balanced diet in the first two months, since there is a very active growth of green mass. Burnt mullein and chicken droppings are very effective. The main rule is that it is better not to feed the plant rather than to burn it.

IN large capacity pour in a couple of buckets of mullein or a bucket of chicken manure, add water, stir and let it sit for three days - during this time the valuable highly concentrated fertilizer will be ready. Prepare a solution: add 10 liters of water to 1 liter of concentrated infusion. Apply 1 liter of solution to each plant only at the root and always on moist soil.

Given that chrysanthemums tolerate cold quite well, at the end of October protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame with plastic film on it - and you will admire the flowering of April cuttings for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and on the warm, bright veranda they will bloom even in January.

Disease and pest control

For moisture-loving chrysanthemums, abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps prevent damage by aphids and mites, which cannot tolerate moisture.

There are many harmful microorganisms and pathogens living in the soil, so after each rain, treat the plants with anti-disease medications (for example, Quadris or Previkur). Fitosporin will protect against root rot; it can be added to irrigation water with each fertilizing.

Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leaf rollers, snails, aphids, mites, etc.), caterpillars pose the greatest danger. Only one of them can eat several buds during the night. So keep your eyes open, review your plantings regularly and take action on time. Good preparations for fighting insects are Aktara, Actellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums

The genus of chrysanthemums has more than 150 species, but in our garden we mainly grow their hybrids.
The classification of chrysanthemums is quite complex. There are main garden groups of hybrid chrysanthemums: Korean (small-flowered, inflorescence 2-9 cm), Indian (large-flowered, inflorescence 10-25 cm), as well as Chinese and Japanese.
According to the structure of the flower, varieties are divided into the following groups: simple, semi-double, anemone-shaped, double, flat, hemispherical, spherical, curly, pompom-shaped, ray-shaped. Based on the structure of the petal, there are tubular and reed petals.

The most popular chrysanthemums for growing in the garden are Korean ones; they are unpretentious, beautiful, and bloom for a long time. Large-flowered species are usually grown for cutting and bouquets. I will list several popular small-flowered varieties for your garden.

Korean chrysanthemum Alyonushka

Bright pink non-double inflorescences 5-6 cm in diameter. Bush up to 50 cm tall. Blooms in September.

Chrysanthemum Korean Barkhan

Orange-yellow small flowers, diameter 5 cm. Bush height 60 cm.

Chrysanthemum Korean Snowball

The inflorescences are double, small, 56 cm in diameter, white with slightly pink tips. Bush up to 60 cm high.

Chrysanthemum Korean Mishal

Small-flowered double chrysanthemum, inflorescences 4-4.5 cm, pom-pom, lush, bright yellow. Blooms from September. Bush up to 40 cm high

Chrysanthemum Korean Terracotta

The flowers are double, 5-6 cm in diameter, orange in color. Bush 50-60 cm tall.

More details on the website 7dach.ru: Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care.

Chrysanthemum bush Saba

A very original color of chrysanthemum with a yellow-green center and reddish-purple sharp petals with a white border. The diameter of the flower is 5 cm, the height of the bush is 60-70 cm.

It's nice to grow wonderful chrysanthemums in the garden and enjoy their beauty. But you also need to be able to preserve your favorite plants until the next season.

There are many ways to organize wintering of chrysanthemums; I'll tell you mine.

I make trenches (20 cm) in the garden, put rotted humus there, lightly sprinkle it with earth, and place chrysanthemum queen cells on top. I fill them with soil according to the soil level. I write down row N and grade in a notebook.

When the cold weather begins, I cover the chrysanthemum queen cells with various insulating materials - sawdust, leaves, shavings. Manure provides warmth, and in the spring it also provides feeding.

I cover the tops of chrysanthemums covered for the winter with Lutrasil.

Anzhelika Vladimirovna Karapetyan

Tips from Peter Kiselev on garden storage and accelerated propagation Korean chrysanthemums:

October is the time of lush flowering of Korean chrysanthemums in the garden, as well as the time to take care of the accelerated breeding and good wintering of these wonderful plants. After all, for us, flower growers, it is very important to reliably preserve the valuable mother bushes of our favorite chrysanthemums in winter and at the same time increase planting material. This is where the method of mass reproduction I use will help you. best hybrids and varieties of Korean chrysanthemums.

1. Dig beautiful, strong and healthy bushes Korean chrysanthemums with a clod of earth.

The root system of these plants is not strong, the rhizome is short. The underground shoots of the Korean chrysanthemum branch weakly, and the roots go down to a depth of about 25 cm.

2. Place (yes, exactly, place) each bush in pre-prepared trenches at an angle. In this case, the rhizome of the chrysanthemum bush itself should be buried on the bayonet of the shovel. A top part bush with flowering shoots and apical leaves should be located above the ground.

3. Bury the chrysanthemum bushes placed in the trenches flush with the main soil.

4. Water the entire buried area generously and then mulch the plantings with dry peat or loose humus.

5. When stable, significant frosts set in (-7...-9 degrees), lightly cover the buried bushes of Korean chrysanthemums with previously prepared dry fallen leaves of trees. But don’t get carried away with this, so that under a too thick “blanket” of foliage, the branches of chrysanthemums do not become trapped without access to air - this typical mistake beginning flower growers.

6. In spring, remove the winter shelter of chrysanthemums, and leave the bushes sprinkled with earth

leave it as it is.

7. When the bushes of buried chrysanthemums go into new growth, then all

the area sprinkled with earth around them will be covered with a continuous “carpet” of young shoots!

Now you need to very carefully free the buried chrysanthemum bushes from the ground. You will see that young shoots have appeared from each internode on the branches of chrysanthemums, and they already have decent roots!

8. Take a sharp pruner and quickly and carefully cut the resulting young chrysanthemum seedlings with an excellent root system.

9. Plant the resulting bushes at intervals of 35x35 cm or 40x40 cm in advance

prepared sunny place. Chrysanthemums are very fond of fertile and light non-acidic loams.

These ten steps to speed up reproduction and successful cultivation Korean chrysanthemums will allow you to get an abundance of quality planting material with guaranteed survival rate, which will actively develop and will soon delight you with their flowering.

Chrysanthemums in Russian gardens with different climatic conditions.
Winter-hardy chrysanthemums are not very afraid of cold weather, but are more afraid of getting wet.

If the winter has a lot of thaws or rain, then there is a greater chance that the chrysanthemum wintering in the open ground will die.

Many gardeners leave their chrysanthemums in the ground in the fall. Some additionally cover chrysanthemum bushes to protect them from the cold. Someone digs up their favorite chrysanthemums and puts them in the cellar for the winter. Some people prefer chrysanthemum mother plants. Each gardener adapts to preserving his chrysanthemums in winter based on the climatic conditions of the garden and personal preferences.

In the photo: chrysanthemums Korean varieties“Vyshyvanka”, “Key Largo”

The most important rule for covering chrysanthemums in the garden: cover the plants late - in case of frost; and we open it early so that the chrysanthemum bushes do not get steamy under cover.

Chrysanthemums should be covered no earlier than the soil begins to freeze.
Cut off the chrysanthemum branches and place a low box on the bush. If the box is foam plastic, then you don’t have to cover the chrysanthemum with anything else.
The good thing about a foam box is that when properly covered (that is, on frozen soil), it works like a thermos, and in the event of a thaw, it does not allow heat to pass through to the wintering chrysanthemum bush. This is especially important for those regions where winter frosts often alternate with thaws.

If there is no foam box, then you can use any suitable box to cover the chrysanthemum.
The point of such a shelter is to ensure that there is sufficient air space above the wintering chrysanthemum bush.
If snow has already fallen, then such shelter will be enough.

If there is no snow, and the frosts are getting stronger, then throw everything on the box above the covered chrysanthemum plant remains, what is at hand (fallen leaves, straw, sawdust, etc.). And then you cover it all with a bag. It is better to take white woven synthetic bags for flour, sugar or cereals, which, unlike plastic film, allow air to pass through.

In the spring, melt water should not accumulate in the place where chrysanthemums are planted.
Chrysanthemums are more afraid of dampness than frost. Therefore, make drainage for chrysanthemum bushes and build drainage grooves.
If your site is located in a lowland, then in order to avoid waterlogging of the soil, it is better to immediately plant chrysanthemums on the ridges.

In the photo: multiflora chrysanthemums of the varieties “Chelsey Coral”, “Miasto Orange”

Wintering experience of chrysanthemum multiflora

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In autumn, gardeners are actively involved in pruning, covering and replanting plants. You can't ignore chrysanthemums. Without preparation for winter they will die.

Flower care consists of:

• feeding;
• sanitary cleaning;
• treatment for damage to the cortex;
• pruning;
• shelter.

Top dressing

You need to start preparing chrysanthemums for winter at the beginning of September, when it is still warm enough outside and the soil has not yet cooled down.

Apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, which will help increase the plant's winter hardiness and give lush flowering. Nitrogen fertilizer do not use it, as it stimulates the plant to grow, and this should not be done in the fall.

Clearing bushes

This procedure is autumn care required. It is necessary to clean the bush from damaged, dried, rotten leaves and stems. Get rid of dry branches without regret; under shelter from moisture, they can begin to rot, gradually moving to the roots. The plant will not be able to recover in the spring. After preparing for winter, the chrysanthemum should be completely healthy.

Treatment

Behind summer season chrysanthemum is attacked by pests and diseases. To eliminate them, the bush is treated with an antimicrobial agent. If the flower is healthy, do not be lazy and carry out the treatment for preventive purposes. The best time to do this is in October.

If during inspection of the bush it was found spider mite, then the leaves and stems need to be wiped with a damp cloth.

Pruning for winter

Pruning chrysanthemums in the fall is a controversial issue. Some practitioners consider this event unnecessary when preparing for winter. Others, on the contrary, cut it so that only 15 cm remains from the surface of the earth, explaining it with a number of advantages. This allows:

• protect the root system vitality for next year, do not waste yourself on extra length of stems;
• ease of covering, no need to bend stems or build covering structures;
• saving covering material.

Shelter

Even frost-resistant varieties of chrysanthemums are best covered. In warm areas, it is enough to use pine needles, straw and dry branches. In colder areas, when preparing chrysanthemums for winter, consider more serious shelter. It can be: wooden boxes, boards, slate, bricks, covering material.

When constructing a structure, do not completely block the air; there is no need to press the material tightly against the bush. It is best to cover it with a box or make something like a box out of bricks and boards. Place a covering material on top of the frame, the edges of which are secured with stones, slate or bricks. Then the wind and cold will not tear down the protective structure.

Polyethylene film cannot be used as a covering material. With the onset of heat, a greenhouse effect occurs under it, which will lead to damping off of the flowers.

The good thing about a covering structure is that chrysanthemums are covered for the winter and at the same time there is ventilation.

In early spring, remove the cover, do not be afraid that the flowers will freeze, they are cold-resistant and will tolerate minor frosts normally. It will be worse if you overexpose them, they will overheat and wither.

Cellar or trench?

There is an opinion that chrysanthemums are dug up for the winter. Yes, they do everything first preparatory work, and with the onset of frost, they dig it up with a clod of earth, install it in a box, cover it with earth and leave it in a cellar or unheated veranda.

Such winter shelter is not always successful due to insufficient ventilation and high temperature inside. The plant wakes up and produces shoots, on which the root system wastes its energy. Therefore, the cellar is often replaced with a trench.

The bush is dug up and placed in a special ditch 50-70 cm wide and 50 cm deep. Covered with slate and thrown on top of the ground.

How to prepare a non-winter-hardy chrysanthemum for winter

Gardeners in the southern regions rarely grow frost-resistant varieties, and rightly so. Cultivate zoned plants that are adapted to your climate, taking into account the characteristics.

Non-frost-resistant flower varieties cannot withstand subzero temperatures. And so as not to disturb them in the fall, they are planted in flowerpots. This is convenient, as soon as the bush fades, the flowerpot is transferred to a cool and dark room, thus creating ideal conditions for wintering.

When preparing, inspect for damage and, if necessary, treat with special means.

Winter often surprises with the variability of weather conditions, and choosing one way to protect plants from frost is wrong. Divide the chrysanthemums into groups and try different variants covering the bushes to increase the chances of saving the flowers.