Many consumers are interested in how to level the floor under the laminate so that it meets the requirements of the manufacturers flooring material. The base to be leveled varies, so there is no clear answer. Read on to learn how to best prepare various surfaces under the subsequent laminate flooring.

What are the main requirements for the mounting surface?

Laminate is a piece of plates that are assembled into a continuous floor surface thanks to locking connections. The material is final, that is, it is not subject to further finishing. The peculiarity of the plates is their rigidity - they cannot take the shape of the base. If the base surface is not smooth enough, the structure of the material is subject to increased load, which leads to premature wear and mechanical damage to the laminate during operation.

Irregularities in the base also affect the quality of the connection of the locks. Seams between laid on uneven areas the floor plates will diverge, and if there is significant curvature, the connecting devices will break. Hence the main requirement for the mounting surface - evenness . The permissible curvature of the floor base should not exceed 2 mm per linear meter in all areas of the room.

The laminate is laid on the substrate in a floating manner. This means that the floor covering is not rigidly fixed to the base, while there remains a deformation gap from the walls along the perimeter of the assembled layer. This circumstance explains another requirement for the base - horizontality. On an inclined surface, the coating will gradually “slide” towards bottom wall and will rest against an obstacle, which will lead to the impossibility of thermal deformation of the plates and their gradual destruction.

In addition, the mounting surface must be strong and dry (the laminate delaminates and becomes unusable when high humidity). These foundation requirements dictate the choice possible ways preparation work surface for installation of this flooring material. Typically, rough bases for leveling under laminate are:

• old concrete (cement-sand screeds);
• floor slabs (in apartments and some private houses);
• wooden flooring along the joists.

Screeds and floor slabs are of a similar nature, so the methods for their preparation are often identical. Let's consider what technologies are applicable to level them.

Screed from “wet” cement-sand mixtures - how to create?

Self-prepared cement-sand material or a solution of ready-packed mixtures (levelers) can be used as a material for leveling surfaces. Their method of application is approximately the same. It is more profitable financially to prepare the solution yourself, but it is inconvenient to do it in apartments multi-storey buildings, where it is preferable to use packaged mixtures. Levelers are easier to lift to floors and mix the working solution (use a regular construction mixer or an appropriate drill attachment).

These materials are used for the manufacture of screeds with a curvature of the base relative to the horizontal from 1 to 8 cm. In order for the product to be manufactured to meet the requirements, before pouring the solution, guides (beacons) located in the same horizontal plane are installed, and after partial setting of the mixture, grinding is carried out, leveling minor irregularities. The technology for installing screeds from these materials involves the following steps.

1. 1. Preparation base surface, including cleaning from debris and dust, removing loose material.
2. 2. Waterproofing the base, which consists of covering the base surface with a dense plastic film or roll waterproofing materials.
3. 3. Aligning the guides at the level of the intended surface of the floor base.
4. 4. Filling the solution between the beacons and leveling it according to the level of the installed guides.
5. 5. Removing the beacons (one day after pouring), filling the resulting depressions and grinding the entire surface.

It is intended to be used on a dry basis, so you need to wait until the “wet” screed dries. It is not necessary to wait 26-28 days for the cement to fully mature (crystallize), since the load on the prepared base is not critical.

Leveling with semi-dry solutions - what are the advantages?

Nowadays, semi-dry mixtures are increasingly used for screeding. Their difference from classical solutions is in the low percentage of solvent and the use of plasticizers that reduce the surface tension of water, which makes it easier to mix the components of the semi-dry solution and their better wetting.

The prepared mixture has a crumbly consistency and does not release free moisture. Thanks to this feature of the solution, there is no need for waterproofing measures. The second advantage is the almost unlimited thickness of the screed, which makes it possible to reduce the plane of the floors of all rooms to one horizontal level with significant initial differences in the levels of the floor slabs (typical for apartments in multi-storey buildings old building). The third positive feature is the ease of creating a flat surface that meets the requirements for laminate flooring.

How to level a laminate floor using semi-dry mixtures? The technology is simple and includes the following sequence of actions.

1. 1. Preparing the base (the same as described for a regular screed).
2. 2. Installation of beacons.
3. 3. Preparation of the mixture (usually a special mixer is used, but a regular concrete mixer can also be used).
4. 4. Layer-by-layer backfilling and compaction of semi-dry mortar so that the material ends up slightly higher than the guides.
5. 5. Next, as a rule, remove the excess layer of the mixture that rises above the guides, and smooth the surface.

Semi-dry screed is much stronger than classic screed, does not shrink, and dries faster. Already on the 3-4th day at room temperature and above it is possible to lay the finishing flooring. When leveling floors sand-cement screeds of any type, it is necessary to install a damper tape around the perimeter of the walls, which would compensate for the linear deformations of the base of the floor when the temperature changes.

Self-leveling materials - if there is curvature

If the floor slabs or the previously made concrete screed have a slight curvature in the horizontal projection (up to 3 cm), it is more advisable to use special leveling mixtures, which, during the process of pouring them, independently form a flat horizontal surface. These are so-called self-leveling solutions, although this material is often called self-leveling floors.

Dry ready-made mixtures are sold packaged in paper bags of 20 and 25 kilograms and involve preparing the working material by dissolving it in water and mixing with a construction mixer. The solution, prepared according to the manufacturer’s recommendations (indicated on the packaging), is poured onto the concrete base, spread with a notched trowel, and then rolled with a needle roller. The last operation is necessary to remove air bubbles that reduce the strength of the material.

The use of self-leveling materials, despite their comparative high cost, is justified when leveling slight curvature of the base surface. After pouring, the solution quickly sets (1-2 hours) and dries (a day or two), which significantly reduces forced technological interruptions in repair work.

Dry methods for preparing the base - 2 options

These include flooring various slabs By established lags and dry screed according to technology Knauf. Both methods ensure the creation of a base surface that meets the requirements for subsequent laying of the laminate without the need to take a break to dry the material used. The first method involves installing wooden blocks with a certain pitch, depending on the nature and thickness of the material laid on top. The following are used as leveling boards: OSB, plywood, chipboard.

They prefer to use it under laminate OSB boards, meeting the requirements for surface quality in all respects, more affordable in terms of material costs and the most convenient to use. After installation, this material does not require additional processing, resistant to microorganisms (rotting, mold) and durable. If it is necessary to insulate the floor between the joists, lay thermal insulation material. There will be no difficulties with laying pipe communications (sewage, water supply, heating).

A dry screed is a surface consisting of gypsum fiber boards fastened together, laid on a leveled bedding made of fine expanded clay. This solves two problems at once: creating durable surface and its insulation (sound insulation). Installation is done as follows:

1. 1. Removable metal guides are installed in accordance with the horizontal level.
2. 2. In the intervals between the exposed plates, fill in expanded clay, lightly compact it and level the bedding according to the level of the beacons.
3. 3. We take out the guides and fill in the resulting voids in accordance with the total area.
4. 4. We lay special gypsum fiber boards equipped with interlocking joints on the formed bedding.
5. 5. We connect the finished fragments to each other using locks.
6. 6. Having covered the entire intended area with slabs, we additionally fix the seams with self-tapping screws.

As a result, a durable, smooth and insulated surface is quickly formed, suitable for laying laminate or other flooring. The disadvantage of dry screed is its lack of moisture resistance and comparative high cost.

Preparing a wooden floor for laying laminate flooring

The floor surface formed by boards installed along joists is not always suitable for laying laminate flooring even after preparation. In order not to waste effort and money on useless activities, it is immediately necessary to find out the state of the starting wooden surface. To do this, take a spirit level () and a rule 2 m or more long. If significant curvature (dimples, convexities) or a large deviation from horizontal plane, it is better to leave the idea of ​​leveling the board surface as unpromising.

When the surface is generally flat and horizontal, and the boards are strong and not rotten (single problematic floorboards can be replaced), such a wooden floor is suitable for preparing it for the subsequent laying of laminate flooring. How to level a wooden floor under a laminate so that it meets the requirements? There are two ways:

• grinding (scraping) of the surface to achieve compliance with the required parameters;
• leveling the floor by laying hard slabs of the same plywood or OSB over the surface.

The first method is very labor-intensive, but can be much cheaper if you carry out the scraping yourself, using a handy tool (hand scraper, plane). There is an option to rent a sanding machine. In this case, the floor will be leveled perfectly; the process will not take much time and effort, but you will have to pay for equipment rental. Leveling with boards is done quickly (cutting, laying, fixing to boards with self-tapping screws), but with the cost of purchasing them. After laying OSB or plywood, the surface is not ideal, but with allowances for the use of a thicker substrate, it is generally suitable.

The growing popularity of laying laminate flooring among consumers leads to the question of self-installation this coating. The main requirement for this will be a completely flat floor. In order to achieve this, it is necessary to perform a floor screed procedure.

The drying time of the screed depends on the composition and thickness of the material used and the climatic conditions in the room.

Base for laying laminate

IN regulatory documents SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings” the permissible floor unevenness is specified (the distance between the floor surface over an area of ​​two meters) of no more than 2 mm for linoleum and no more than 6 mm for ceramic tiles.

Important! For laminate, such indicators are not provided, but material manufacturers recommend not to exceed differences of 3 mm.

This requirement is quite strict, so to obtain such a floor it is necessary to perform leveling using a solution of cement and sand or special mixtures for screed (also called self-leveling). If the maximum difference on the floor is no more than 4 mm, laying the laminate without preliminary screed is allowed.

What are the reasons for such stringent requirements?

The answer to this question lies in the structure of laminate tiles:

1. During the assembly process, individual laminate panels are assembled into a single covering, which makes movement unacceptable individual parts relative to gender.
2. The coating is attached using connections castle type at the ends and sides of the panel.
3. The manufacturer only provides for the location of all coating elements in the same plane. Other locations are simply not allowed by the locking design.
4. Under the influence of loads (person’s weight, furniture, etc.), the laminate will tend to repeat all the unevenness of the floor on which it is laid.
5. If the panels move relative to each other or are deformed, the locking mount will break. This will lead to a violation of the integrity of the entire floor covering, the appearance of cracks, and the laminate will need to be replaced.

IN Lately There was an opinion about the possibility of eliminating differences in floor level using a submarine under the laminate.

The thickness of modern substrates allows you to compensate for some unevenness, but do not forget that the laminate is laid on a substrate no more than 3 mm thick. Accordingly, if there are large irregularities, it will not be possible to simply compensate for the differences with a substrate.

In case of using backing boards thicker than those recommended by the manufacturers, all warranties will be void, and in the event Bad quality There will be no one to file claims against for coverage.

Don't forget, that even a thick layer of substrate will not save you from large irregularities. This option will only slightly delay the appearance of problems - after a while, unevenness will be felt through the backing layer.

Laminate flooring can be laid on the screed without a backing if the backing is combined with the covering panels. Otherwise, a layer of underlay is placed between the floor and the laminate. It should be remembered that the main function intermediate material is not to compensate for unevenness, but to provide noise, heat and waterproofing, mitigating loads on the floor.

Types of screeds

There are several options for leveling the floor under the laminate:

1. Dry type screed based on backfill and sheet covering.
2. Screed by laying plywood and wooden beacons.
3. Self-leveling screed and self-leveling floor.
4. Screed made of cement and sand mortar.

The first type of screed, dry screed, is used in small spaces, for wooden floors and when it is necessary to reduce the load on the floors (for example, in the attic or attic).

With this type of screed it is possible to compensate for significant differences and unevenness, but it should be Special attention pay attention to waterproofing the resulting floor, since dry screed is very sensitive to moisture.

If water gets on such a floor from above (in case of faulty plumbing or flooding by neighbors), it will become unusable. This is precisely what influences the low popularity of this method of floor leveling. But, if it is possible to achieve waterproofing, this method is very fast and effective.

Leveling the floor using plywood sheets most often used for wooden hearths, since in this case the bay cement screed not possible. From wooden slats they make beacons that need to be leveled on a horizontal plane. Then sheets of plywood are attached to them, DPS or MDF.

In this case, the plywood must be thick enough so as not to sag between the wooden beacons. The distance between the beacons is chosen based on the size and characteristics of the plywood sheet.

Third option using ready-made mixtures and self-leveling floors based on gypsum and cement binding materials is popular among users. The main advantage of the method will be minimum layer screed, but with significant unevenness and differences, such a screed may not be enough.

Helpful information ! Screeding using self-leveling flooring is quite simple and gives high-quality and effective results. There is also a drawback, which is the cost of the material. Self-leveling flooring is several times more expensive than traditional cement screed.

Thus, the most popular and quite effective is the traditional screed using a solution of cement and sand. Using this method, you can even out almost any differences and nervousness, and the reliability of the resulting floor has been proven over years of using the method.

Due to its availability and reliability, this screed method is most often used in modern world.

This method is more labor intensive, so it is advisable to work in pairs:

• The first person prepares the solution and supplies it;
• The second is by directly leveling the screed on the floor.

Installation of screed made of cement and sand mortar

The rule and beacons will be useful for this work.

To perform high-quality screeding and leveling the floor under the laminate with your own hands, use the step-by-step algorithm:

• Removing old flooring. In this case, all layers of the old covering are removed until only the floor coverings remain. Then you need to remove all debris and dirt; for high-quality cleaning, it is better to use a construction vacuum cleaner.

• Damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the room to the bottom of the wall. The tape can have a self-adhesive layer or be attached with double-sided tape.

• Polyethylene construction film is laid over the entire floor(thickness 300 microns). The overlap on the walls is 5-6 cm, the overlap at the joints is 30 cm. It is important to tape the joints of the film with tape.

• Beacons are placed from the highest point of the room. It will help to determine the position of this point laser level.
• Reinforcing mesh is laid out on the floor, which needs to be raised a few centimeters using spacers. The joints are connected with steel wire.

• Using a cement mortar with a high concentration of cement (putty can be added), the level of the highest point is raised by 5 cm. from metal profile Beacons are made, which are installed from the highest point at a distance of 1.2 m from each other, 0.5 m away from the wall. Depending on the parameters of the rule, the distance can be changed.

• After the base of the beacons has hardened, it is time to start pouring the floor. First you need to prepare a mixture for the screed from M400 cement, sand and water. Make the ratio of cement and sand 1:4, adding water to create a thick but fluid solution. The resulting screed is poured between adjacent beacons and leveled using the rule.

• After finishing filling one strip, we move on to the next, but not to the adjacent one, but after one. Then you need to return to the strip between the two filled ones. So, gradually, the entire floor is filled.
• It is necessary to allow the solution to completely harden and dry.

Please note that before laying a new coating on the floor, you need to check whether the screed is dry. To do this, you need to cover the floor with a sheet of polyethylene, securing the edges with tape. The next day we check whether there is liquid on the polyethylene. If there is no perspiration, the screed is completely dry.

Conclusion.

There are several options for leveling the floor for laying the underlay for the laminate and the laminate itself; the technology for making a cement screed with your own hands was discussed above. For more complete information and instructions, we recommend watching the video.

They call it a screed top part floor structure, which serves as the basis for laying decorative flooring. Modern renovation, carried out both in a new building and in apartments of old high-rise buildings, necessarily includes work on screeding the floor. In order to start arranging the floors yourself, you need to know what materials will be needed and what thickness of floor screed will be optimal for your apartment. The nature of the work will largely depend on the characteristics of the room and the desired characteristics of the future floor.

Primary requirements

The screed layer in the entire floor structure performs a certain list of functions. With the help of this layer, the dynamic and static strength of the flooring is ensured, and also creates Smooth surface, necessary for high-quality styling tiles, laminate or linoleum. The screed allows you to evenly distribute the load on those layers of the floor that are located under it, thereby extending their service life. With the help of a screed, they not only level the floor, but also create slopes provided for by the renovation project.

The screed in a residential area must be strong enough to withstand physical exercise, arising as a result of the arrangement of furniture and the movement of people living in it around the room. The screed layer must be equally dense over the entire floor; any voids inside it, as well as chips and cracks, are not allowed. If the room is not specifically designed to have a floor with a slope at a certain degree, then in standard cases the surface after pouring should be horizontally flat with a maximum slope of 0.2%.

The thickness of the screed has a direct relationship with the service life and strength of the floor structure. A specific number indicating optimal thickness subfloor, no. The thickness of the fill depends on the room in which the renovation is being carried out, what loads the floor is intended for, and what type of soil is used as the base. Both the choice of screed thickness and the choice of cement brand for pouring it, the use or absence of reinforcing elements during the work depend on these indicators.

What kind of screed can there be?

Standardly, there are three types of screed relative to its thickness. The first type is the subfloor large thickness. What thickness of screed is used in this case? To fill the floor, self-leveling mixtures are used, which are poured to a height of up to 2 cm. Pre-installation In this case, no reinforcing elements are produced.

The second type of coating includes a floor with a height of up to 7 cm. This coating requires the presence of reinforcement or reinforcing mesh and is made of reinforced concrete. The third type of subfloor is a screed with a maximum thickness of up to 15 cm, which is a monolith with reinforcement inside. A thick screed is used in cases where it must simultaneously play the role of both the floor and the foundation of the house, connected into one system.

The final thickness of the screed depends on the materials used in the process of arranging the floor. Thus, concrete pouring with the addition of crushed stone can no longer have a minimum thickness. In this case, due to the crushed stone fraction, it is impossible to create a thin layer of subfloor. For pouring a thin layer the best option will be the use of self-leveling and other mixtures intended for finishing floor before laying the floor covering. Using the mixture, a thin and even layer of screed is created, which, after drying, can be immediately used as a base for decorative material.

Particular attention is paid to the thickness of the screed when arranging heated floors. It is important here that the filling completely covers the heating elements. At standard sizes pipes of 2.5 cm, the total thickness of the screed for a warm water floor can be from 5 to 7 cm. It is not recommended to pour concrete to a height of more than 7 cm. According to experts, for the normal functioning of the floor and warming up the room, a 4 cm layer of concrete above the pipes is sufficient. A thicker layer will complicate the regulation of heat supply, since it will spend most of the energy on heating the concrete itself.

The maximum thickness of the screed can lead to another unpleasant consequence in the form of deformation of the walls. When heated, the concrete part of the floor expands and has a mechanical effect on the walls of the room. The thicker the screed layer, the stronger this effect will be. To exclude possible consequences before pouring concrete mixture It is recommended to cover the walls around the perimeter with special tape.

Minimum screed

According to SNiP minimum height screeds in a floor structure can be equal to 2 cm. But there is one feature here, which is that depending on the material, the minimum screed height may be different. If the screed is made on the basis of metal cement, then a layer of 2 cm will be quite enough. If no reinforcing element is provided in the fill, then the minimum layer height cannot be less than 4 cm.

This requirement for a minimum screed is due to the fact that flooring must be characterized by a certain strength and wear resistance. A thin screed simply will not be able to provide the required performance indicators.

Pouring a thin coating can only be carried out if several conditions are met, which include an existing subfloor, a surface leveled with a rough screed and the absence of reinforcement. Thin screed is not recommended for indoor use technical purpose, and also where the mechanical load on the floors is very high. In an apartment, such rooms include the kitchen, bathroom and hallway - here experts advise pouring a fairly thick screed.

A thin screed is used to create a leveling layer necessary for further work. The sequence of work on a flat ground surface is as follows:

• A layer of crushed stone and sand is poured, leveled and compacted efficiently;
• Waterproofing is installed, which can be a simple polyethylene film;
• A reinforcing mesh is installed and beacons are placed;
• The concrete solution itself is poured.

Minimum thickness floor screeds using reinforcing mesh cannot be less than 4 cm. Due to the presence of the mesh and the small height of the screed, the concrete used for pouring must be made from fine crushed stone. Compliance with this requirement will allow you to fill the solution thin layer, and the final screed will be quite strong. To increase the strength of the coating, it is recommended to add special plasticizers to the solution.

Maximum screed

There is no specific maximum possible thickness of the screed. The fill height will depend on many factors: the value is determined separately for each case. In technological terms, a height of more than 15-17 cm does not make sense; structures with such a height are created only when necessary, as they require a lot of time and materials.

It makes sense to thicken the layer if you are arranging the floor in a room where heavy loads are placed on the floor. The most simple example A garage can serve as such a room: the weight of the car and its impact on the floor when moving are large, so a screed height of 15 cm is quite justified.

A high tie is also used in situations where it will be part of load-bearing structure. In this case, a thick monolithic fill becomes not only a floor, but a foundation. Experts recommend increasing the thickness of the screed if the base of the floor structure is problematic soil.

Sometimes height concrete pouring increase in order to hide significant differences in the surface. In practice, significant unevenness of the original surface occurs quite often, but a large screed thickness is not the only way to eliminate them.

Before deciding to pour a 15 cm high screed, many builders advise evaluating the possibility of using crushed stone or expanded clay to level out differences. Correct sudden changes with a powerful jackhammer. If surface imperfections can be corrected using these methods, then the need to pour concrete to a greater height will automatically disappear.

A minimum layer of fill will also not work in this situation, however, you will need a much smaller amount of material to screed the floor. If you level huge surface differences of 15 cm in size only with concrete mortar, then your costs for the concrete itself and for paying for the work of builders will add up to a round sum. Most often, large expenses will not be justified, so it is worth doing at least partial leveling using a bulk layer of crushed stone.

Filling a screed of maximum thickness when installing warm water floors is also not financially justified. Large thickness of the cement layer above heating elements will cause the floor to warm up slowly. The efficiency of such a design will ultimately be low, and heating costs will be simply enormous.

How to fill?

Filling a floor screed can be done in two ways: either with cement mortar or a special dry mixture. With the first method, you will get a concrete screed as a result, with the second - a semi-dry screed. Which option should I choose?

Concrete pouring is the most popular, but to use it you need to know a few important points. The solution itself is prepared from cement, sand and water. Experts recommend buying cement of at least M-300 grade - with a particle fraction of 3-5 mm, such material will provide high quality final coverage. Using sand sifting rather than sand to prepare the solution will also have a positive effect on the final result: the adhesion of the sifting particles is significantly better.

To increase the strength of the future flooring and prevent cracking and destruction of the screed into crumbs in cement mortar plasticizers must be added. Those who are planning to make a screed for warm water floors should pay special attention to this point. Plasticizers are special additives that increase the strength and ductility of the concrete layer.

The use of plasticizers to prepare the solution is also necessary when pouring thin floors. The minimum thickness of the screed without them can be only 4-5 cm; for a concrete floor of smaller thickness, the addition of plasticizers to the solution is a necessary condition.

Concrete screed requires a long time to dry. The solution must dry on its own; turning on the heated floor for this is strictly prohibited. The floor is dried for a month, and the surface is periodically moistened with water to avoid cracking.

Floor installation using special semi-dry mixtures has recently gained popularity. This screed does not require adding large quantity water, dries faster and is more durable. The range of special mixtures for floor repair work today is quite large.

Unlike concrete mortar, semi-dry screed will take much less time, the main thing is to wait the period specified by the manufacturer. Once it has expired, you can begin installation. decorative covering and turn on the heating system if you installed a heated floor. The use of dry mixtures for pouring floors looks preferable when the time allotted for renovation work, are limited.

Semi-dry screed requires lower financial costs, but performance characteristics final coverage significantly exceeds the indicators concrete screed. Coatings made from such mixtures have better noise and heat insulation and are more resistant to cracks and peeling. After the material hardens, a perfectly flat surface is obtained, ready for laying laminate or parquet boards.

Laminate is extremely popular among floor coverings. This is due to a large number positive qualities and reviews from performers. It is worth paying attention to the fact that laminate flooring requires very careful attention to the process of leveling the base of the floor in the apartment where the renovation is being carried out. It is for this reason that you should consider options for floor screeds that can be used before laying the flooring.

Types of screeds for leveling

Dry leveling method

For laying the flooring, you can also choose a dry floor screed under the laminate. Most often this is done on wooden base, which is pre-checked for quality. If the boards are rotten and very old, then it is best to replace them with new ones. Existing irregularities on plank floor cut or sanded. Everything will depend on the condition of the surface. In some cases, it is easier to get rid of the old base and lay a new one.

When leveling, a sheet of plywood is laid over the entire area of ​​the room. be made towards each other, leaving a slight gap. In the presence of decorative elements on the leveling path, you can cut the plywood using a hacksaw.

Cement-sand slabs can be laid on the boards. Laying is done in the same way with plywood. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws. The evenness of the installation is checked using building level, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Next, you can lay the laminate on a dry screed.

Another “dry” way to level a floor under a laminate is. It is in demand due to its lightness, reducing the load on floor slabs with significant differences in height. At the same time, its strength remains high and it can last for a long period.

In addition to the classic function, expanded clay has sound insulation properties, is environmentally friendly, and does not emit environment harmful substances. This “pie” retains heat indoors very well. During operation, you don’t have to worry that such a floor will begin to rot and mold will form in it. The cost of the material is not high, and you can purchase it at any hardware store. Laying laminate flooring on a dry screed is carried out in accordance with all rules and requirements.

If you don’t want to carry out all types of work yourself, you can turn to specialists. They certainly know how to properly install a screed under a laminate flooring, and which option to choose for high-quality leveling.

You will need

• - dry mixture (“Vetonit”, “Osnovit”, etc.);
• - kit construction tools(hammer, trowel, grater, etc.);
• - electric drill with mixing attachment;
• - rule (a long, even strip for leveling the surface);
• - guiding beacons (markers);
• - hydraulic level or flexible hose replacing it;
• - container for diluting the mixture.

Instructions

Prepare the base of the floor for laying the screed. To do this, clean it of loose fragments of concrete, dust and dirt. Putty the cracks and prime the surface with any suitable primer. The result of preparing the base should be a relatively flat and sealed surface. The latter is necessary so that the base does not absorb moisture from the mixture, which can lead to a decrease in the quality of the screed.

Mark the finished floor level on the walls (surface a). To do this, first set the finished floor level point in one place - at the level of the previous floor, at the bottom edge of the doors, or at the floor level in other rooms. Then, using this point as a starting point, use a hydraulic level or flexible hose to establish corresponding points in all corners of the room. Use a cord to connect these points with a straight line on all walls.

From the existing floor level line, measure down in the corners of the room distances equal to the sum of the thicknesses of the laminate and underlay. Connect the resulting points with straight lines. These lines will indicate the level of the screed surface.

Install guide beacons (markers). The distance of the beacons from the wall should be about 200 mm, from each other - 1-2 m. The easiest way to install markers is on piles of thick mortar. The working (top) edge of the markers should be flush with the bottom line on the walls. This is achieved by pressing the markers into the solution or adding solution if the marker drops below the required level. After installing all the beacons, you need to give time (several hours depending on the brand of the solution) for the solution to harden.

Mix the screed solution. Pour the dry mixture into a container, add a strictly defined (according to the instructions) amount of water and mix the mixture with an electric drill with a mixing attachment. The solution must be mixed thoroughly.

Pour the prepared mixture between two guide beacons, level it with a trowel or scraper, ensuring it flows into secluded places under the markers. If necessary, tamp the mixture so that no voids form in it. The final leveling of the screed is carried out using a rule, the lower edge of which slides along the guide beacons during leveling. The hardening time of the screed depends on the brand of dry mixture. In the instructions you can find out all the time parameters - the time when you can step on the screed and the time of full readiness.

Video on the topic