cesspool V country house- a required attribute, since centralized system Sewerage is not always available. Each of us wants to feel as comfortable outside the city as in the city and begins to equip our country house, installing a shower, bathtub, toilet, etc.

Cesspool, types and features

Before you start building a cesspool, it is important to think through the design of the collection and accumulation of household wastewater.

A cesspool can be:

• absorbent, without bottom;
• sealed;
• septic tank

Cesspool with “no bottom” design the simplest and cheapest option for arranging a cesspool. Disadvantages: Domestic wastewater that enters the ground can cause damage to the environment. And if the volume of wastewater is large, this sewerage option will not be able to cope.

Sealed container, does not pollute the atmosphere and is comfortable to use. Disadvantages: for such a sewer it is necessary to call as the cesspool is filled.

It is important to understand that the cesspool will clog faster over time and you will need to call the cesspooler more often.

Septic tank – reliable option arrangement of a cesspool, since a septic tank works according to the principle mechanical cleaning. A single-chamber septic tank is one of the most simple types both in construction and in operation. It is a well with a bottom lined with crushed stone, through which water subsequently seeps into the ground. The use of bacteria promotes additional purification of water, itself storage capacity will fill more slowly and less contaminants will enter the soil.

Where can a cesspool be located?

Determining the optimal location is an important part of the construction of a cesspool, which requires taking into account such aspects as:

• necessarily 5-7 m distance between cesspool and a residential building;
• 30 m, not less than the distance from the pit to the well or other water intake;
• accessibility for a sewer truck.

In addition to choosing the location of the cesspool, you should consider some rules:

• the design of the pit should be round, this allows it to withstand loads from the soil much better, reducing the likelihood of depressurization and collapse of the walls of the pit;
• The location of the pit on the site must be chosen below the residential building; it will be easier to organize a slope from sewer pipes;
• The volume is calculated as follows: for one person half or more of a cubic meter of the volume of the pit. In practice, a cesspool is built from three cubes. Why is that? Because the tank of a sewer truck has a volume of exactly 3 cubic meters. Therefore, it is better to make the volume the same as that of a vacuum cleaner than to order it repeatedly.

What materials should I use to build a cesspool?

A multifaceted question, since there are a lot of materials for arranging a cesspool:

• One of the irrational options is the construction of a cesspool without lining. Such a pit will quickly silt up, the walls will fall off, and the useful volume of the pit will decrease;
• cesspool using tires - the average service life of this design is about 30 years, cannot be cleaned, and has a small filtration area. Which leads to rapid silting and the filtration process stops;
• usage wooden formwork– the service life of this structure largely depends on the type of wood used, application valuable species wood is not advisable. The service life of such a cesspool is 5-7 years;
• a pit made of brickwork - the brick gradually turns into clay in the process of contact with water;
• pit of metal formwork– service life from 5 to 20 years, depends on the properties, as well as on the surface treatment of the material. Expensive metal increases the service life;
• a pit made of polymer formwork - or just a septic tank. Is an achievement innovative technologies, is very popular.

The most common option for arranging a cesspool, of course, is. Is the most the best option for a cesspool, even in terms of price/quality ratio.

A cesspool made of reinforced concrete rings has many advantages, for example over brickwork:

• easy installation, less costs time;
• sealing is less labor-intensive due to the small number of joints;
• concrete is the most durable, concrete is resistant to the aggressive effects of the contents of the cesspool;
• the likelihood of siltation of protrusions and crevices is reduced, since the rings have smooth and round walls.

The top of the cesspool must be covered with a concrete slab. For easy access inside the pit during pumping, a hatch is installed on the slab. It may also be needed in the event of any emergency.

One moment - it will stand out from the pit a large number of heat and various gases. Therefore, you need to think through a small hole in the floor slab and organize ventilation - piece sewer pipe, protruding from the surface of the earth by half a meter.

Construction of a cesspool– a serious and responsible process, adhering to proven technology, if you have the desire, you can do everything yourself.

The dacha plot must have a sewerage system. You can do it yourself. without pumping with your own hands - this is a way to make living in country cottage more comfortable. The main thing is that the sewer system functions correctly. Installing drains is not a difficult task if you first learn how to carry out the construction.

It is quite possible to make a cesspool for a private house yourself

Sealed waste water tanks

These tanks are containers made of concrete, plastic, metal and other materials that do not allow water to pass through. Thanks to the tightness, residents will be free from unpleasant odors. However, such a device for cesspools requires frequent calls to a team of sewer trucks to remove accumulated wastewater.

Storage containers made of plastic can be mounted in parallel, which increases their volume. Sealed tanks are installed above-ground and underground. The first option is required for land plots with close location groundwater.

The simplest homemade septic tanks

A do-it-yourself cesspool is a feasible job for a master when it comes to simple and lightweight structures. If you are going to use it for construction, then it is better to find an assistant and hire special equipment. Heavy structures are not easy to install yourself.

If your farm has plastic container for a cesspool, then start arranging summer cottage. Installation will take no more than 2 – 3 days. In addition to plastic containers, they are used metal barrels or containers, as well as products made of polypropylene or polyethylene. Each material has its own characteristics:

1. Plastic is lightweight, easy to transport, resistant to wet environments, for a long time service, simple processing;
2. Metal barrels or homemade welded structures require an anti-corrosion coating. Otherwise, the product will soon become unusable;
3. Polypropylene containers are durable, moisture-proof, shock-resistant, and able to withstand sudden temperature changes;
4. Polyethylene containers are fragile. They require careful transportation. The service life reaches 30 years.

For homemade septic tank with several chambers you need to prepare a pit and fill it correctly concrete screed to get a solid foundation. The rings are installed. The structures are connected to each other. Step-by-step cleaning allows you to obtain an excellent natural fertilizer for the garden.

How to make an absorption pit

A cesspool without pumping is created in several stages:

1. Select the location where the hole will be located. It is necessary to retreat 1 m from the fence and at least 12 m from the residential structure. Upper layer Scatter the soil around the area. Leave 1.5 m3 of earth for thermal insulation above the ceiling. Remove the remaining soil from the dacha;
2. Make walls out of concrete. Another option is brickwork. The design will be optimal for sucking liquid into the ground if the masonry is done in a checkerboard pattern;
3. Make an overlap on top. It could be monolithic slab made of concrete with a hatch.

If you do not plan to insulate the lid, then you need to install the walls 30 or 40 cm lower than the soil level so that the cesspool does not freeze in winter.

A plastic pit boiler is one of the simplest solutions

Sealed design device

There are many options for making a cesspool. This is convenient to meet the various needs of cottage owners. Use factory-made products to ensure your sewer pit will serve you for many years. Scheme of a cesspool made of concrete slabs. Installation is quick. The cesspool will be able to fully satisfy the needs of the residents: concrete rings are sold in a wide range on the market. You can easily select circles with the desired diameter.

During installation, the following order should be observed:

1. They dig a hole. For execution earthworks usually hire an excavator;
2. Lay the main circle. Install subsequent rings. Specialists will handle this work. This requires involvement special equipment. An excavator is needed to construct the bottom; the rings will be lowered down by a crane. It is preferable to use solid products in construction;
3. The last circle should rise 20 or 30 cm above the ground.

Construction of a cesspool made of concrete rings requires the involvement of experienced professionals and special equipment.

A cesspool with overflow is an excellent replacement central sewer in areas where it does not exist. The structure has the following advantages:

• rare pumping using sewage disposal equipment;
• the ability to use water a second time to water green spaces;
• no bad odors;
• the ability to use water in large volumes;
• absence of gurgling and other unpleasant sounds from sewer system if the pit overflows.

If desired, the master will build a cesspool overflow structure himself. To do this you will need to understand its structure. 2 settling pits are connected to each other with a special pipe in the shape of the letter “T”.

The first container is connected to the house by a pipeline at an angle of 1.5 or 2 degrees towards the drain. Large particles sink to the bottom of the settling tank. Wastewater flows through a T-shaped pipe into another container. This sump does not have a bottom. It has layers of sand, as well as crushed stone with broken bricks. Wastewater passes through all layers. After purification, it goes into the ground without causing harm to the environment. Loose or sandy soil makes it possible to fill the second hole with crushed stone alone. Lay geotextiles with a layer of black soil on top. Plant plants with short root systems.

Adding a septic tank to the first pit helps improve the breakdown of organic waste. special drugs containing bacteria. If oxygen enters the container, the biological product works better. Therefore, it is recommended to leave a hole in the septic tank lid.

The first sump is built from concrete rings, and the second from red brick. You will need plastic sewer lines and a T-pipe. Instead of the latter, you can take a corner. This is necessary to prevent sewage from entering the first container into the second.

If you have to dig a ditch by hand, then use this method. Install the first concrete ring at the location where the sump pit will be. Get inside the product and dig in a circle. The weight of the ring will cause it to sink. When concrete product leveled to the ground, a second one is installed on it. Keep digging. Unnecessary soil is poured into a bucket, which is lifted by your assistant standing on top. After completing the installation of the rings, connect the pipes to the containers. A chisel and hammer will help you make holes in the concrete rings.

A plastic cesspool is a structure that a master creates without outside help. During installation, avoid differences in pipes and sharp turns. When it is impossible to lay a straight pipeline, then make the angle of turns obtuse. This design avoids blockages. Make sure that it is convenient for the sewer truck to drive up when the sewage accumulates and you need to pump out the cesspool. The drawn diagram will help you create a competent project for local sewerage.

Do-it-yourself sewer pit from used car tires- a budget-friendly way to create comfortable conditions for accommodation. If the volume of wastewater is small, then this design is ideal: it is affordable and practical. Installation is not difficult. However, it is difficult to disassemble a tire structure with your own hands. The homemade product will last no more than 15 years.

It is difficult to shape structures made of gas silicate blocks into a circle on your own. Therefore, it is made in the form of a square or rectangle. Sealing is carried out using special glue or cement mortar.

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Ready-made cesspool kits

Today, cesspools in a private house are made in one day. Contact professional companies that sell and install septic tanks. Select ready product according to the catalog and place an order - a cesspool made of plastic or concrete rings. In the first case, the container is already ready for use, in the second it will be assembled on site.

Factory septic tanks are divided into single-chamber, two-chamber and three-chamber. The last two models allow you to get more output clean water. The first option is used instead of a cesspool.

If nearby centralized sewerage is absent, then a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem.

In any private house or country house where there is a toilet and a cold and hot water supply, the problem of collecting and discharging sewage arises.

Cesspool – simplest option sewerage in a country house or in a private house, which can be implemented independently, with your own hands.

Where should it be located in a private home?

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the cesspool will be installed.

When choosing a location, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of SNIP 30-27-90 and San PiN 42-128-4690-88:

• directly on the territory adjacent to a private house or cottage;
• installation is allowed at a distance of no closer than 10 meters from the foundation of a private house and other structures on personal plot and to structures located in neighboring areas;

Important! This requirement is explained by the fact that with a closer location of a leaky cesspool, destruction of the foundations of nearby structures and buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

• the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least 1 meter;
• the depth should not exceed three meters. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the depth of groundwater;
• it must be located at a certain distance (25 m) from drinking wells.

Photo: location on the site

This distance depends on the type of soil on the plot:

1. When sandy and sandy loam soil– the cesspool must not be located closer than 50 m from the well;
2. For loamy soil - no closer than 30 m;
3. With predominance clay soil- no closer than 20m.

DIY construction of different types

There are two main options for constructing a cesspool:

• an ordinary cesspool without a bottom (drainage);
• sealed cesspool.

Photo: without bottom

The option for installing a sewer system at a dacha or in a country house is largely determined by the location of the site, the daily volume of wastewater and financial capabilities owner of the site:

• if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter, it is permissible to install a simple cesspool without a bottom. In a cesspool of this type The wastewater partially goes into the ground, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. An example of such a cesspool is an ordinary village toilet;
• with a large daily volume of wastewater (more than one cubic meter), a device is required sealed pit, which must be pumped out periodically.

Photo: sealed drain pit

This requirement is due to the fact that if there is no bottom in the cesspool, wastewater goes into the ground and is purified by microorganisms living in the soil. But their processing capabilities are limited.

With large volumes of wastewater, microorganisms will not be able to cope with their purification. Then wastewater will pollute the adjacent soil and may enter water-bearing soil layers with subsequent contamination drinking water.

If it is necessary to dispose of a large volume of wastewater, you can also consider installing a septic tank with filtration fields.

Regular

The simplest cesspool is very simple:

• a hole is dug up to 2 m deep, 2 m wide and 2.3-3 m long;

Photo: digging a pit

• soil walls are strengthened or laid;

Photo: strengthening the walls of the pit

• a layer of crushed stone is laid on the bottom;

Photo: crushed stone at the bottom of the pit

• A protective ceiling with a hatch is mounted on top.

Photo: ceiling with hatch

Advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• quick and easy installation;
• low cost of construction and operation;
• ease of operation.

Flaws:

• environmentally hazardous;
• unsuitable for sewage of large volumes of wastewater;
• spreads an unpleasant odor;
• unscheduled overflow is possible as a result of the ingress of melt or rainwater;
• The groundwater level must be below the level of the cesspool.

Sealed

A sealed cesspool (sealed storage tank) is a sealed container into which wastewater is discharged through pipes. As the container fills, wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck.

Photo: service

Advantages of a sealed pit:

• environmentally friendly, waste water does not enter into environment;
• does not depend on groundwater level;
• the location does not depend on the type of soil on the site.

Flaws

• relatively high cost of construction;
• monthly operating costs (it is necessary to regularly call a sewer truck, 2 to 4 times a month);
• There may be a smell if the storage tank is made in the form of a well.

Size calculation

The required working volume of the cesspool is calculated using the formula:

Vholes = Number of Days × Number of Persons × V Persons × 0.001,

Where
Vpits– the required volume of the cesspool, in cubic meters

Number of Days– planned frequency of calling a sewer truck to empty the pit storage tank

Number of persons– estimated number of people using sewerage

Vperson– water norm per person per day, liters. Accepted 100-200 liters per person.

Calculation example:

A family of five people lives in a residential building and they plan to order a sewer truck once every two weeks (14 days). We accept Vperson=150 liters per person per day.

Required volume of drainage pit:

Vpits=14×5×150×0.001=10.5 m3

Or 10500 liters.

What can you make yourself from?

Let's consider different kinds and design options for cesspools that you can build with your own hands. They can be divided into temporary and permanent.

From tires

If you need a cesspool for a toilet in your country house minimum costs, you can build it yourself using old tires.

Photo: tire drain pit

This is a cheap and quick option for constructing a drainage pit. Its design is very simple. A pit is prepared in which tires are laid one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the pit; if desired, the tires are additionally sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

• low cost, simplicity and speed of construction;
• durability;
• easily restored if necessary.

Flaws:

• rapid siltation due to untimely cleansing, resulting in loss of useful volume;
• opportunity negative influence on the environment with a large load on the pit;
• Tires are susceptible to rotting over time.

Video report

Made from concrete rings

Let's consider the possibility of constructing a cesspool from concrete rings.

Photo: cesspool made of concrete rings

This is another option for quickly constructing a cesspool. In its structure it resembles a well. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other. If desired, the joints between the rings are sealed using a concrete screed.

According to the principle of operation, a drainage pit made of concrete rings is more likely to be a sealed cesspool. Therefore, it is necessary to empty it regularly. Although it is possible to build a septic tank from concrete rings.

The advantages include:

• durability;
• ease of construction of a protective cover with a hatch;
• relatively low cost;
• possibility of independent construction.

Disadvantages:

• high labor intensity of work;
• the need for regular bowel movements;
• the possibility of unpleasant odor from ventilation pipe.

Video: construction

Made of brick

A brick drainage pit is the optimal and good decision, if you need a pit for a toilet or a drain pit for a bathhouse in a private house.

Photo: brick cesspool

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages.

Pros:

• environmental safety - the contents of the cesspool are regularly removed by a sewer truck or cleaned on site;
• simplicity in construction - almost any summer resident can handle brickwork for a cesspool.

Flaws:

• An unpleasant odor may occasionally appear. The use of special preparations that accelerate the decomposition processes of biological waste and regular cleaning of the storage tank will help to cope with this problem;
• relatively short service life (10-15 years), due to the degradation of bricks in unfavorable conditions of the cesspool;
• siltation. Siltation can be prevented by timely pumping out the liquid collected in the reservoir.

DIY construction

The first step is to decide on the location of the cesspool, taking into account ease of use and compliance with all requirements.

Photo: location of the cesspool

We decide on the design. Depending on its purpose, a brick cesspool can have round, square or rectangular masonry.

Photo: brick cesspool shapes

We calculate the required volume, determine the dimensions and prepare a pit for it.

Photo: foundation pit for a cesspool

At rectangular shape holes, we make a slope of the bottom towards the future location of the hatch. We lay it on the bottom of the pit sand cushion, 10-15 cm thick and fill it concrete mortar. You can use ready-made concrete slab suitable sizes. A cement mortar screed is laid on top.

Photo: filling the bottom with crushed stone
Photo: laying out the walls with bricks

After the walls are ready, it is necessary to cover them with bitumen mastic or build clay castle from the outside for reliable sealing.

Photo: sealing with concrete

If necessary inner surface We plaster the structures. For plastering we use a solution of a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 2 to 1.

Installation of ceiling and hatch

After the base of the cesspool is ready, we install its ceiling with a hatch. The ceiling must cover the pit on all sides by at least 0.5 meters.

Photo: installing the ceiling

We use reinforced concrete slabs or densely stacked logs as flooring. When installing a ceiling, it is necessary to immediately provide space for a hatch. The hatch should have a diameter of 0.7 m.

On top of the ceiling we lay waterproofing made of roofing felt or polyethylene film. We fill the waterproofing with a layer of soil or slag 40 cm thick.

Photo: waterproofing film

Important! To protect against the spread of odor from the cesspool and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is made double. Top cover is arranged at ground level, and the second at the ceiling level. Free space between the covers it is filled with heat-insulating materials (foam plastic, expanded clay, slag, etc.).

Drain pit from a barrel

A drainage pit made from a barrel is a good option for constructing a sewer system with your own hands with natural wastewater treatment for small volumes of wastewater (up to one cubic meter).

Preparing a barrel for a drain pit:

• We take a two-hundred-liter barrel, preferably from a non-corrosion material, and make drainage holes in its side wall in a checkerboard pattern using a grinder or drill. It is recommended to make holes in increments of 10-20 cm;

Photo: making drainage holes

• We prepare and hermetically attach a pipe to the bottom of the barrel to connect the drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We cover the connection point of the pipe with bitumen mastic;

Photo: we fix the pipe at the bottom of the barrel

• We wrap the barrel on all sides with geotextile and securely fasten it with non-rotting twine. This is necessary to ensure reliable protection barrels from getting soil and other foreign particles into its container while maintaining drainage efficiency.

Photo: wrapping the barrel in geotextile

Preparing a pit and installing a sewerage system

• we dig a trench and lay sewer pipes, always with a slope;
• prepare a pit with a diameter and depth slightly greater than the depth of the barrel;

Photo: preparing the foundation pit

• pour a 30 cm layer of crushed stone or gravel onto the bottom of the pit;
• We install a barrel on the resulting pillow and attach a drain pipe;

Photo: placing the barrel on a crushed stone bed

• We fill the free space between the walls of the pit and the barrel with crushed stone or gravel;
• connect the sewer pipe to the inlet pipe of the barrel.

That's all, the drainage hole for your bathhouse or home is ready. Similarly, you can make your own cesspool from a barrel for a toilet.

Concrete

As one of the options for installing a home sewage system, you can consider constructing a cesspool made of concrete.

The procedure for constructing a concrete cesspool with natural filtration:

• determine the required volume of the cesspool and its dimensions;
• digging a pit required sizes;

Photo: we dig a pit, make formwork and fill it with mortar

• We install formwork around the perimeter of the pit and fill it with concrete mortar;
• Coat the outside of the resulting walls with bitumen for waterproofing;
• fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of crushed stone, gravel, broken brick;
• On the walls of the resulting box we lay waterproofing made of roofing felt or polyethylene, as well as a floor slab with a hatch for pumping and a hole for entering a sewer pipe. We can also make the floor slab with our own hands from concrete;

Photo: making waterproofing from film and laying floor slabs

• we lay and connect sewer pipes.

Using this technology, you can independently build a cesspool for a toilet.

There are many options for building a cesspool with your own hands. When choosing a specific solution, it is based on specific conditions and financial capabilities.

It is also worth considering the possibility of installing a septic tank or purchasing a ready-made kit for installing a cesspool.

One of the main tasks that arises before starting country house construction, - pad engineering communications. Without them, you cannot achieve even the minimum level of comfort. How to do drain hole(septic tank) with your own hands? This is a question many homeowners ask. In the absence of a central sewer system, it is necessary for the drain to work around the clock and uninterruptedly.

Selecting material for building a septic tank

From building materials, used for a septic tank, depends on the cost of the drainage pit itself, as well as your labor costs. Traditional and completely justified options are:

Septic tank from plastic tank and plastic components.

Prefabricated septic tank made of reinforced concrete designs.

Drain pit from monolithic concrete using metal inlets and outlets.

Drainage structure made of brick.

Choosing volume future drainage pit, focus on tank capacity of the sewer truck. You will have to call it periodically to pump out wastewater. The volume of the septic tank must be equal to or a multiple of the volume of the “barrel”. Then you won’t have to order cleaning several times a year.

If in the house you are planning live seasonally, then wastewater disposal is a solvable problem. You need to make the most primitive cesspool from any sealed container . For a family from 3-4 person its volume should be no less 1,5-2 m³. If there is no such container, you can line the hole in the ground with red fire bricks. Simple circuits drainage structures shown in the picture above.

But when permanent residence such sewerage arrangement no good. Why - now you will understand. Family life requires daily use of large volumes of water. These are baths, showers, washing dishes, wet cleaning, washing, natural needs.

Calculation of water consumption is always based on maximum consumption, and this 180-280 liters per day for one household. That is, a group of 4 -x a person spends per day 0,5-1 m³ of water or up to 30 m³ per month. Based on this, even a large drainage hole in 15-20 m³ must be cleaned 1-2 once a month.

Such a sewer will drain your family budget . In addition, the cleaning procedure itself is specific and rare owners have the desire to perform it too often. It's about about unpleasant odors that can spread throughout the area.

Sometimes improvement A drainage pit is carried out by creating holes in the ground so that dirty water leaves through them, filtering naturally. But this method of disposal has many disadvantages, including prohibited sanitary standards . Therefore, it is necessary to equip a septic tank with natural liquid purification.

Fundamental difference a septic tank from a cesspool consists of the fact that in the first there are leaks anaerobic processes of organic matter decomposition.

Particulate matter will linger at the bottom the first chamber, and the second is used for biological processing dirty water putrefactive bacteria. The number of cameras may be large, but the principle of operation itself will remain similar to that shown in the figure above.

First let's decide on water consumption in the house, based on data tables:

Minimum height there must be a septic tank not less than 1.2 meters, otherwise solid suspensions will not settle densely at the bottom of the drainage pit.

In the picture you see a diagram single-chamber septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings with a volume 2 m³. You can make such a cesspool for your home with your own hands.

Inlet pipe must be above the water level by 5-7 centimeters. This will prevent a hydraulic short-circuit between the inlet and outlet pipes. Both pipes must be immersed in liquid for 30-35 centimeters.

Bottom of pipes should be made open, and these ends should be brought above the wastewater level to 20 centimeters so that gas does not enter the pipes, which will be released during the fermentation of putrefactive bacteria.

Channels between both concrete rings The septic tank should be located within 30-60 centimeters relative to the water level. If the channel located between the chambers is lower, then large suspensions will begin to fall into the small chamber. If the channel is higher, then fractions that float on the surface may enter this chamber.

For a septic tank, even the simplest, it is necessary to provide exhaust gases to the outside(ventilation pipe in the diagram above), and also hatch for pumping out liquid(possibly wooden).

Configure cameras the drainage pit can be used in different ways, since their shape and location do not affect on the quality of cleaning sewer water. You just need to follow following proportions : a large chamber should occupy 2/3 from the entire volume of the pit.

Perfect form for a septic tank - round. Such a decision requires 10-15 % less building materials. In addition, the “cylindrical” pit is stronger because it copes better with the force of soil pressure. For cladding and strengthening walls better to use brick.

Water in the hole doesn't freeze, since fermentation processes raise the temperature. But cooling the liquid on the surface inhibits the activity of bacteria that cleanse sewage. That's why top part still a shallow septic tank it is recommended to insulate. At least half the depth of soil freezing in the region.

Insulation can act expanded clay, which is covered with a layer thickness of 25-40 centimeters, or foam boards PSB-25 thickness from 5 before 10 centimeters.

For collecting household waste in private homes or on garden plots a drainage pit is required. Its construction is not difficult, so you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists. To create a drainage pit with your own hands, you will need some knowledge, we talked about it in this article.

Sanitary restrictions

To avoid penalties and litigation with neighbors, when choosing a location for a drainage pit, the following sanitary and technical requirements should be taken into account:

The storage pit for domestic wastewater is located only on the territory of a private household; you do not have the right to place it outside; distance from the fence – from 1 m;

In order to avoid wastewater getting into drinking water if the seal of the pit is broken, it is necessary to place it at a distance (at a distance of 10 m) from the water supply branch; a distance of at least 20 m from the drinking water well (on loams up to 30 m, on sandstones – 50 m);

The close location of such a pit when it is drowned or washed away can lead to the destruction of the foundation, so the distance from residential buildings(including neighbors) – 10-12 m;

The depth of the hole depends on the occurrence of groundwater, maximum depth- 3m.

When choosing a place for treatment plant The possibility of access to special equipment for pumping out should also be taken into account.

To avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the house, you should not place it near windows - you should retreat at least 5 m.

Distance to cesspool

Violation of sanitary standards is fraught with more than just fines. In the event that a sewage spill causes damage natural environment or the health of others, a criminal case may be opened against you (Article 250 of the Criminal Code).

Important! The construction of cesspools without a bottom is allowed only if the volume of domestic waste per day does not exceed one cubic meter. In all other cases, the waste collection container must be sealed.

Types of drainage pits

A variety of materials can be used to construct a storage tank for domestic wastewater:

Concrete (including concrete rings);

Plastic;

Rubber tires.

Brick drainage pit

tree and rubber tires due to low tightness, they are used only for the construction of small drainage structures. Most often, cesspools are constructed of concrete or brick.

Calculation of storage capacity

The size of such a container depends on the number of residents, the number of installed plumbing fixtures, the presence of a shower or bath, bath, dishwasher, washing machine, pumping frequency and other nuances. The generally accepted rate of wastewater per person without further filtration is 30-50 liters (0.03-0.05 cubic meters) per day.

Thus, provided that the drainage pit is pumped out once a month for a family of 3 people, you will need at least:

0.03 x 3 x 60 (number of days in 1 month) = 4.5 m3

Advice. In case of unforeseen situations (for example, snow drifts and the impossibility of timely pumping), it is better to size the storage tank with a reserve. Since the volume of one GAZ sewer truck is on average 3.8-4 cubic meters. m, in order not to overpay for driving the car, it is wiser to make the holes a multiple of this value.

Concrete drainage pit. Construction stages

1. Initially, the hole is prepared manually or using an excavator. Usually its width is no more than a meter. The length of the cesspool is calculated depending on the volume of wastewater. For ease of pumping, it is better to make the bottom of the pit with a slight slope.

2. To prevent the walls from crumbling, they are leveled.

3. Pipes are connected to the pit. In order for wastewater to flow into the pit by gravity, it must be located at a certain slope. For pipes d160 mm it is 10 mm per meter of passage; the slope of 100 mm pipes is 20 mm.

4. It is advisable that drain pipes were located below the freezing level. Otherwise, they will have to be carefully insulated.

Pipe supply

6. It is better to make a hydraulic lock between the walls of the pit and the ground. To do this, wet clay is poured between the formwork and the soil and thoroughly compacted. This must be done as the formwork is being erected.

Clay castle

7. Walls concrete pit It is advisable to waterproof it using ordinary polyethylene film.

8. Standard formwork is prepared for the side parts of the structure. Since concrete walls have a significant mass, the formwork is secured as firmly as possible using self-tapping screws.

9. The structure must be reinforced. All metal rods are connected with wire.

Cesspool reinforcement

10. The thickness of the concrete cesspool walls is 25 cm.

11. To avoid the appearance of cold seams (places of “weakness” in concrete), walls are poured only in one step.

12. The solution is mixed in a ratio of 1:2:3 (cement, sand, crushed stone). It should be quite liquid. If you throw a small pebble at it, sufficient quantity liquid, it must be completely immersed in the solution.

13. During the pouring process, the solution should be periodically compacted with a shovel or vibrating compactor (bayonet). Otherwise, voids will form in it, which will negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Compacting concrete makes it stronger and prevents voids

14. In hot weather, dry out to avoid cracking. concrete surface It's better to cover it with bags.

15. After the concrete has completely hardened (this happens on average within a week), the pit is carefully waterproofed with bitumen. To do this, the walls are first cleared of irregularities. The bitumen is crushed into pieces, heated to a boil, then removed from the heat and a small amount of kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel is gradually added to it in a thin stream (10 liters of bitumen will require a liter). This is done so that the bitumen is more liquid. If you don't dilute it, it will harden almost immediately after you remove it from the heat.

Heating bitumen on a fire

16. You should not overheat the bitumen or heat the mixture together with gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel, otherwise it will flare up. If the heated bitumen does catch fire, to extinguish the flame, you should immediately cover the container with plywood or a suitable lid.

17. For waterproofing, you can purchase already ready solution roofing bitumen mastic, but it will cost more.

18. The resulting mixture is applied to the walls with a brush. After the first layer has dried, another one is applied.

19. Can be used as a cover reinforced concrete slab with hatch for pumping and cleaning.

Drain pit hatch

Advice. In the drainage pit, as a result of waste rotting, methane is formed - a rather explosive gas. It is vented using a ventilation pipe located in the pit lid. The diameter of such a pipe is 100 mm with a height of 600 mm.

Ventilation pipe arrangement

Video: Drain pit: stages of construction