I have been dreaming of buying a compressor for two years now. Very useful device for a wide variety of work in the garage: inflating wheels, painting with a gun, blowing out engine parts, and so on. On average, a simple compressor costs 10 thousand rubles, a homemade one cost 300 rubles, plus a bunch of rubbish that was lying around the house. An old compressor from a refrigerator, a gas cylinder, a 10 BAR pressure gauge, angles and tees made of brass, plugs for them, threaded nipples from metal moped inner tubes, clamps, washers.

For production I used a compressor from a refrigerator cylindrical installed horizontally. It has a capacity of 10 l/min, this is very little compared to industrial ones, but I don’t need anymore, say, for 5-10 seconds to bleed air at a low pressure of 3 Bar, when in the receiver (I’ll tell you about it later) the pressure is 8-9 Bar.

For the receiver, I take a 50L gas cylinder. I drained all the gasoline from it ahead of time. I tried to unscrew the tap, but no matter what methods I used, the tap would not budge.

Since the cylinder tap has a left-hand thread, I decided to make a 3/4-inch adapter with a right-hand thread. Took the hose high pressure and two adapters from 3\4 to 10mm with left and right threads. The result is such an adapter

I assembled a simple splitter from tees and angles and made a test switch.

In 45 minutes the cylinder gained a pressure of almost 9 bar, with a receiver volume of 50L this is approximately 430L of air

I filled it a couple of times, and then lowered the cylinder upside down to remove the remaining gas and gasoline, and then began a thorough assembly. The position of the cylinder is horizontal, I welded the compressor mount on top and installed all the wiring with a pressure gauge. I secured the circuit with clips mounted on nails welded to the cylinder. The compressor was connected to the circuit with a hose, secured with clamps

I drilled a hole in the plug, inserted a nipple into it and put a rubber gasket on top. The plug was clamped onto the tap, and there were two tees in a row to the tap: one outlet to the receiver, the other to the pressure gauge. Next I screwed on a corner, a coarse filter to the corner, a coupling to the filter and the same plug as on the other side.

A filter had to be installed so that the oil that is squeezed out by the compressor would settle and not get into the receiver and pipes.

All that's left to do is weld the legs and paint everything the same color. There was one leg at the front, two at the back. All legs are remains of a corner

I haven’t set the machine to turn off until I don’t have the money to buy it. For the same reason, I did not install a pressure regulator. As soon as I have the money, I’ll finish it, but for now it’s enough as it is.

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I won't paint it, I'm too lazy.
With uv. Admin check

Using improvised means and a standard set of household tools, any householder can assemble a homemade air compressor from the refrigerator. The scope of application of such a device is quite wide and justifies the expenditure of effort and money on its manufacture:

• Air compressor for airbrushing and painting.
• Electric pump for inflating car tires.
• Power source for pneumatic tools.
• Air pump for purging complex mechanisms during their repair.

Homemade air compressor from a refrigerator

Range of capabilities, power, durability and reliability homemade system generation compressed air, assembled on the basis of a compressor from an old refrigerator, depends on correct design and installation of its elements.

Compressor selection problem

Compressor from an old refrigerator

The assembly of a functional and reliable device begins with the selection of its main part - the compressor. It is found in any household refrigerator, performs the function of a pump for pumping refrigerant and is a single unit in a sealed metal shell, on the outside of which a relay is attached to start it. Any similar motor in good condition will be suitable for solving the problem. Further selection and configuration of all additional elements design is determined by the shape and characteristics of a particular device.

Compressor search

If you don’t have an old and unnecessary refrigerator at hand, then there is always the opportunity to purchase a dismantled unit on the used tools and spare parts market. There you can buy a workable option for 100-150 rubles.

Do-it-yourself dismantling of the compressor from the refrigerator

Do-it-yourself dismantling of the compressor from the refrigerator

You can remove the device from the refrigerator using ordinary wrenches and screwdrivers. It is better to cut the air supply and outlet tubes rather than saw them off, so as not to clog the mechanics of the device. The standard start relay is also removed.

Features of refrigerators and their compressors

The capabilities and characteristics of the compressor selected as the basis for the future compressed air supply mechanism should be taken into account. The following options exist:

• The simplest solution is motors operating in a linear circuit.
• Motors operating using an inverter circuit.

Both options are suitable for work, but their features should be taken into account. Linear devices are designed for constant operating speed. Therefore, they are better suited for creating a compressor apparatus. Converter options are designed for variable speed, which should decrease depending on the signal from the temperature sensor.

Functionality check

Checking the functionality of the compressor from the refrigerator

In order to check the functionality of the unit, you should first ring it using an electronic resistance meter and then connect it to the network:

• Each input contact is checked. Usually there are 3 of them on the block, configured for a standard relay connector.
• The contact with maximum resistance refers to the motor starting mechanism (approximately 20-40 ohms)
• A contact with a resistance of 10-15 Ohms refers to the winding that provides the operating mode (the wire on its winding is thicker).
• The third contact is phase.

To test the connection, voltage is applied to the working and phase contacts, after which the working and starting contacts are briefly closed. The device should create a stable sound timbre when turned on, and an air flow should come from the output tube.

Development of a compressor station diagram

Preparing equipment for a homemade compressor station

When developing a compressor station diagram and compiling a list additional equipment the intended scope of application should be taken into account. The larger the receiver and the pressure in it, the wider the homemade possibilities will be. The standard scheme includes the following parts and mechanisms:

• Electronic pressure sensor. It turns off the engine when the specified pressure parameters in the receiver are reached.
• Pressure gauge for measuring the degree of air compression.
• Safety valve.
• Air dryer at the outlet of the receiver.
• Air filter for installation on the inlet pipe of the compressor unit.
• Filter for removing oil from the air stream under pressure.
• Switch button.
• Wires, high pressure hoses and fittings with the required configuration.
• High pressure cylinder for receiver.
• A ball valve that shuts off the air supply to the consumer at the outlet of the system.

Methods for purchasing equipment

An old refrigerator compressor can be purchased inexpensively on the used tool market.

Most of the parts for the compressor station are easiest to buy at a plumbing store. There are specialized websites where all parts, without exception, can be ordered in a few clicks. The necessary equipment can be purchased much cheaper on the used tool market. It is acceptable to use cheap fuel filters, but using a regular fitting and a metal dishwashing sponge, you can quickly make a more reliable filter for coarsely cleaning the air from oil, which is installed on the output tube of the engine block.

Receiver problem

Homemade welded receiver

Cylinders for homemade compressor equipment cannot be found on sale. For this purpose, cylinders of various purposes and capacities are converted into receivers:

• Propane and methane cylinders.
• Fire extinguishers.
• Cylinders for storing compressed air, carbon dioxide, oxygen and others.
• Homemade welded structures.

Attention: When using homemade buildings under the receiver, it is necessary to take into account the degree of risk and explosion hazard of such a device.

The simplest option is steel pipe medium diameter with sealed plugs. The receiver body must contain at least 3 throughput units:

• Inlet for compressed air from the compressor.
• Outlet.
• The condensate drain unit from the cylinder, which should be located at the lowest point.

When using steel cylinders, the inlet and outlet tubes are welded together. The housing must withstand more than 10 atmospheres.

Preparing and connecting the compressor from the refrigerator for use in a compressor installation

When connecting the compressor unit, you can leave the same circuit as was originally provided - through the start relay. You can connect the wires of a pressure sensor to this relay, which will interrupt the circuit after the calculated pressure parameters are reached in the receiver. Additional convenience is the equipment of the entire system push-button switch And LED indicator work. Before connecting, you can change the oil in the block. Old oil is designed to work with freon. Special compressor oil for operation in air environment will protect the electric motor from overheating and premature failure.

Installing the air filter on the air intake

Installing a fuel filter on the compressor inlet pipe from the refrigerator to clean the air flow

For landing on the inlet tube air filter, the most simple option which is a plastic fuel filter, you can use either a soft rubber hose or a metal elbow fitting with a threaded connection. The easiest way to tighten a connecting soft tube stretched over the plastic tip of the filter and the copper inlet is to use a metal clamp.

Installation of oil purification device

The air stream coming from the block contains a significant amount of oil, which can be filtered out using a homemade cut-off device. A drainage hole with a tap should be provided in its body through which it can be cleaned. Between the oil shut-off valve and compressor unit It is allowed to install a cooling coil made of a metal tube.

Main line with measuring and control equipment

Preparation for assembling the pipeline with control and measuring equipment for the compressor station

All controls and measuring instruments The easiest way is to place it on one highway. To do this, you will need regular metal tees from a plumbing store. On a single platform there is a sensor for shutting off the system when operating pressure is reached, a pressure gauge, a device for cleaning the air from condensate accumulating in the receiver and safety valve, with which you can quickly dump excess air from the cylinder. At the outlet of the main line, a control ball valve can be placed. The main unit is connected to the storage cylinder either through its standard inlet, or using a homemade inlet on its body.

Instrumentation connection problem

If the diameters of the installation instrumentation do not correspond to the dimensions of the available fitting, then in this case all instruments can be mounted using plugs in which holes of the required size are drilled and threads are cut with the appropriate pitch. Threaded connections compacted using fum tape.

Problem with high pressure rubber tubes

Thick wall oxygen hoses are one of the most available materials for connecting all parts of the compressor apparatus. But it should be borne in mind that the air stream leaving the engine compartment will contain a large number of oil that destroys rubber. For this reason, it is preferable to use metal (copper or steel) tubes.

Servicing a compressor from a DIY refrigerator

Maintenance of a homemade compressor station should be carried out taking into account the features of its configuration. The functionality and tightness of all components should be periodically checked. Violation of the tightness of locking devices is easy to identify if a pressure measuring device is installed, which will immediately show its rapid loss. The performance of the pressure sensor can be easily monitored using a pressure gauge, the readings of which can be recorded at the time of normal shutdown of the system after filling the air tank. You should also regularly drain condensate and oil from filters and cylinders.

A homemade refrigerator compressor is most often used in conjunction with an airbrush or spray gun, as it operates almost silently, takes up little space and creates sufficient air pressure. It is also suitable for inflating car wheels. Next we will tell you how to make a compressor with your own hands.

Materials and tools for a homemade refrigerator compressor

Compressor. The motor is from an old refrigerator and is called a compressor; it is the central element of our product. You can see what it looks like in the photo: details different models may differ, but in general they are similar to each other. The compressor is supplied with a start relay (a black box attached to the side), from which comes a power cord with a plug.

Receiver. A container into which air will be pumped by a compressor. Options are possible here: any tightly closing container with a volume of 3 to 10 liters made of iron or plastic is suitable. This could be an empty fire extinguisher, small tanks, various receivers from trucks, cans from construction liquids.

Hoses. You will need three pieces of hose. Two are 10 cm long and one is 30-70 cm long, depending on the shape of the receiver and the intended mounting. It is convenient to use fuel hoses in a car, as they will connect to car filters.

You will also need one hose or tube to connect a ready-made homemade compressor from a refrigerator to the air consumer itself. Here the length and material depend on the specific needs. If you will be using a compressor with an airbrush, any thin polyvinyl hose (or the one that came with the airbrush) will do. When using the compressor outdoors, it is better to look for a thicker hose.

• Clamps. 5 pieces, size 16 or 20 mm.
• Tubes. Two pieces - copper or iron, with a diameter of 6 mm or another - the main thing is that the hoses fit.
• One is 10 cm long, the second is 20-50 depending on the size of the receiver, more details below.
• Automotive fuel filters. One petrol and one diesel.
• Pressure gauge (optional).
• Epoxy resin if using a plastic receiver.
• Piece wooden board(the basis). The size depends on the size of the receiver and motor. They should be placed on the board nearby.
• Steel tape or wire. Needed to secure the receiver.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.

Tools:

• Sharp knife
• Screwdriver
• Drill
• Pliers.
• Metal file (optional).

How to make a compressor with your own hands

Now directly about how to make a compressor with your own hands.

Three tubes come out of the compressor from the refrigerator: two open and one short, sealed. Plug in the compressor and run your finger near the outlets of the tubes. The one from which the air blows will be the exit, and the one that draws in will be the entrance. Remember which is which and unplug the compressor. Use a metal file to cut two tubes, leaving 10 cm or more to make it convenient to connect the hoses. You can bite it off with pliers, but you need to make sure that sawdust does not get inside the tubes. Next, we attach the compressor to the base board, screwing the legs with self-tapping screws (you can use bolts, it’s more reliable). Important: we fix the compressor in the same position in which it was fixed in the refrigerator. The fact is that the starting relay on the motor works due to the forces of gravity; there is an arrow on the relay body pointing up. Having secured the compressor, we move on to the receiver.

Let's make a receiver. Option if you have a plastic container. We drill two holes in the lid for our tubes. We insert them there, as shown in the figure, and fasten them epoxy resin. We leave ends 2-4 cm long on top. Now about the length of the tubes. A short one (10 cm) will be a day off. The second will be the entrance, we make it as large as possible so that it does not reach a few centimeters to the bottom of the receiver. This is done to space the inlet and outlet openings inside the receiver as far apart as possible for greater air mixing.

If you have an iron receiver, we do the same, but do not glue the tubes, but solder or weld them. You can also weld nuts, and then screw fittings into them for the hoses.

The pressure gauge can only be installed in a metal receiver. To do this, we drill in any convenient location there is a hole in the receiver and solder a pressure gauge in it. A more preferable option: weld a nut onto the hole and screw the pressure gauge into the nut. This way, if the pressure gauge fails, you can easily replace it.

Now we take a piece of hose (10 cm) and put it on the gasoline filter. If you use gasoline hoses, there should be no problems; if you use polyvinyl pipes, you may have to heat it with a match or hold it in boiling water so that it fits onto the filter fitting. We put the second end of the hose on the inlet tube of the compressor. This inlet filter is needed to filter out dust. Here, the use of clamps on the connections is not necessary, since there is no pressure here.

We take the second piece of hose and connect it with the outlet tube on the compressor to the inlet tube on the receiver. We install clamps at the connection points.

Now we put the third piece of hose (10 cm) with one end on the outlet tube of the receiver, and put the other end on the diesel filter. We put on the clamps. There is an arrow on the filters (diesel and gasoline) indicating correct directions movement through the air filter. Connect both filters correctly. A diesel outlet filter is needed to filter water from the air.

We put our working hose on the outlet fitting of the diesel filter, which goes directly to the airbrush, spray gun, etc.

We screw rubber feet onto the underside of the base board or glue felt pads for furniture. If this is not done, the compressor may scratch the floor during operation - it vibrates. The level of vibration and noise depends on the model of refrigerator compressor you get. Motors from imported refrigerators are almost inaudible, Soviet ones are also quiet, but there are exceptions.

The pressure generated also depends on the model. Ancient motors are more powerful. Most Soviet compressors are capable of pumping up pressure to 2-2.5 bar. The compressor in the photo creates a pressure of 3.5 bar.

Maintenance of a homemade compressor from a refrigerator

Compressor maintenance involves regularly changing both filters and draining any accumulated oil in the receiver. But the main factor affecting the service life of the compressor is the frequency of oil changes. It is better to change it the first time before assembling the compressor. There is a third sealed tube on the motor. We cut off the sealed end from it and drain the oil from it, turning the engine over. About a glass of oil will spill out. Now, using a syringe through the same tube, fill in fresh motor oil, a little more than the amount that was drained.

Afterwards, in order not to solder the drain tube, we screw a bolt of a suitable size into it. The next time you change the oil, simply unscrew the bolt.

Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my own compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.

Main elements

The first step is to register technical requirements to our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new dual action airbrush, I needed a compressor with a receiver. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. IN European countries many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let’s leave the economic side of this aside. Air container - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may fail and the hose will fly out. Getting hit by a flying hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.

The main thing is, in fact, yourself compressor. We will use a compressor from a refrigerator. Like a “pot” - because you can no longer find compressors of the “cylinder” type during the day, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sales sites refrigeration equipment. Probably the main criterion will be their price, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl+c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer’s website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I found is Danfoss, on their website you can download a pdf file from technical description compressor. Be sure to download it, we will need it!

Let's return to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. Let me make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a blatant violation of safety regulations! Let's consider the containers:

Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide choose containers - 3,5,10 l. - it’s easy enough to get (you can buy it, you can get it “exhausted”). However, it has one significant drawback - metric thread at the entrance. That's what I used.

Option two- hydraulic accumulator. Decent choice of capacity, but has a small operating pressure. The inlet has a convenient 1 inch thread. It requires fine-tuning before use, since the inside is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. She needs to be pulled out. To get it, simply buy it at a construction hypermarket or construction market.

Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples can hold a huge number of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity or heavy, massive ones are available for welding work, and it’s extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some medical equipment (I’m afraid it’s very expensive), you can set up an oxygen bar before assembly!!! =)))

Option four- cylinders for various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that use for compressed air is not recommended.

Connecting links between the gearbox and the receiver, air preparation unit

Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been determined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how the compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and ensures air distribution between the lines (it is necessary to mention that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver; I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - best option- relay RDM-5 for water supply systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing supply stores. Please note that the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for 1-inch external thread.

Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is necessary. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have connection size 1. Important - you need a static device.

Fourth is the air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a gearbox is needed. The reducer must have a pressure control limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. Also, it is necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value adjustable pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Because even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - do not buy a lubricator filter under any circumstances - it performs a diametrically opposite function.

Fifth - Consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of fittings is 1 inch; in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and components, we’ll make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this:

Now let's think about the placement of the entire structure. As an option - ordinary chipboards. In order to avoid dragging the entire structure around the apartment and workshop, we will provide roller legs, which are easy to find in any furniture store. To avoid the installation taking up a lot of space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, let’s draw the following diagram:

You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.

• Compressor - 1 pc.
• Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
• Pressure switch - 1 pc.
• Pressure gauge - 1 pc.
• Filter reducer - 1 piece.
• Emergency valve - 1 piece.
• Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
• Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
• Cables, switch, plug + various small items for laying and connecting them.
• A flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant), with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting of the compressor.
• Chipboard board for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.

Let's start assembling!

Compressor assembly

So, the shopping run is over, the diagram has been drawn, let's start the show =). The first difficulty I encountered was the assembly at the fire extinguisher outlet. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly and find a welder to weld the required adapter fitting. Due to my haste, I didn’t want to look for someone, so I did a simple thing - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element). An adapter with internal thread by 1 inch, into the other with a creaking screw the adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed in. Hand on heart, this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was made in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. It’s better to weld the new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not entirely according to the rules...).

The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a plumbing adjustable wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently hardens - if you want to make it for centuries - do not regret it!), and twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. Important Note- in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to wrap everything “to the point of creaking” - according to the law of meanness - tees and turns will never fit desired angle. We install a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the fire extinguisher receiver.

Carpenter versus joiner

“The viper with wheels is here!”
KF "Kin-dza-dza"

The second stage of assembly is carpentry. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stock” and screwed furniture wheels onto them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled them with a thin drill seats for them (this way they are screwed in exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you are guaranteed the attention and interested reaction of your family (from the category bad advice and here it would be worth leaving a note “never repeat this yourself”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. I screwed the nuts approximately to the middle of each stud, measured out the perforated tape with a reserve (so that it would be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and hoisted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all bitten areas of the punched paper tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or process so that there are no sharp edges or burrs.

After positioning the fire extinguisher, I placed two more perforated tapes on top and secured them with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydraulic accumulator as a receiver, then most small (5, 6, 8 liters) “horizontal” type models have wonderful claw brackets at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and a compressor can be placed on the upper ones.

In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the legs of the compressor (there are many of them), and, maintaining the geometry, mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It’s okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever needed I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I used ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, making a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers.

We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something sticks out, or is simply poorly positioned, the design can be changed. After fitting, we screw it on. Using a flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a tight fit of the hose - otherwise oil may leak and splash on the compressor side, and air may leak from the air distribution module side.

I sing the electric body. The finishing touches and...

“Mahmoud, set it on fire!”
KF "White Sun of the Desert"

First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor we are considering as an example uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide drive starting can vary greatly between different models.
Now the most important thing is that you need to work with the installation’s connection diagram. There are several pitfalls here:

1. The compressor is taken out of the usual connection diagram. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
2. It is advisable to provide protective elements ( circuit breaker) - a controversial issue, in principle, in case of any excesses, the automatic device should be triggered on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - installing another automatic device, in my opinion, is not necessary.
3. The connection line must go through the relay and switch.
4. Sometimes, it is necessary to connect a capacitor to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.

The connection must be made according to the following scheme:

From the plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, but if there is no ground wire, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (a protective ground is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starting device (the box is like this it on the body), and according to the diagram we connect it to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:

General form connection diagrams. Connection diagram for relay RDM-5. Please note - we use terminal L1 to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, under no circumstances connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.

From a regular plug (2.5 mm2 cable), through the switch, to the pressure switch (it is marked there where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and neutral, if your house is new, or simply with phase and neutral, if the house is old. In principle, you can stop worrying and connect the ground to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now for the system to work, we’ll install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block of the starter. It is best to connect by soldering, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:

Jumper connection diagram in the starter.
This jumper is very important, as it ensures the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, carefully lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and also check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully for possible short circuits - each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.

Now we check everything, launch it, and start painting the models! =)

In contact with

It is a device for mechanical compression of gases, which generates an outlet air pressure greater than atmospheric pressure. Pumping air into the chambers internal combustion engine combustion, the compressor increases engine power by increasing the efficiency of fuel combustion. When the supercharger is running, the fuel mixture contains more air, which makes it easier to ignite and releases more energy during combustion. In the course of research, it was found that the engine adds 46% of power and 30% of torque to the latter - this device is so important!

This device is used as power pneumatic tools

An air compressor is installed not only in cars with internal combustion engines - this equipment is used to power pneumatic tools in industry and other industries. Main performance characteristics air compressor - operating pressure and capacity in liters of air per minute.

The following types of air compressors are distinguished:

• Piston. Device with direct force transmission. During engine operation, the piston moves along the cylinder and compresses the air that enters the system. There are oil and oil-free piston blowers, the latter of which are widely used to power spray guns in the painting industry. Double piston air compressors are used for industrial purposes due to their high performance.
• Rotary. Power is transmitted from the engine using a belt. Propellers with rotating blades compress the air inside the device and create. Rotary equipment is characterized by high performance, good efficiency, low noise and vibration during operation. Piston type air compressor oil is used sparingly and does not enter the compressed air. 380 V is especially widespread in production.

The blower can operate independently or using a receiver, which ensures an even supply of compressed air to the system. An air compressor without a receiver is less expensive and smaller, but is more susceptible to breakdown.

Can I do it myself?

Not everyone can make an air compressor for an engine on their own, and making modifications not provided by the car manufacturer can have an unpredictable effect on the operation. However, it can be assembled for a garage or auto repair shop - with the help of such a device you can quickly fill tires with air, create excess pressure for a spray gun and other pneumatic tools, and also find other uses for the equipment.

A do-it-yourself compressor with a receiver will last significantly longer than purchased equipment, provided correct assembly from quality parts. This is explained by the fact that the master, who set out to make an air compressor with a receiver, makes it for himself, and for this reason he cares about quality. What parts are needed and how to assemble?

Assembling the compressor with your own hands

The main element of a homemade air supercharger is the propulsion system. It is recommended to use a refrigerator compressor for assembly. It is notable for the presence of a start relay, which provides the ability to set and maintain a certain level of air pressure in the receiver. If you don’t have an old and unnecessary refrigerator at hand, you can find the unit at an industrial waste dump or from friends. Preference should be given to a refrigerator made in the USSR, since powerful and reliable compressors were used to produce Soviet refrigeration equipment.

The refrigeration blower has three tubes, one of which is sealed at one end. The rest are air ducts - one lets air in, the other exhausts. When further assembling the unit, it is important to understand in which direction the air flows circulate. To determine, you need to turn on the compressor for a short time and observe in which direction the circulation occurs. It is recommended to mark “input” and “exit” different colors so as not to be confused during assembly. An air filter will help prevent arbitrary changes in air direction. check valve for the compressor.

In addition to the heart of the old refrigerator, to assemble a car compressor you will need:

• Air receiver ( good option is a fire extinguisher).
• Pressure gauge.
• Coarse fuel filter.
• Moisture separating filter.
• Air pressure control relay.
• Set of adapters, clamps, hoses.
• Toggle switch for 220 Volt voltage.

At various stages of assembly you will need: a base for installing the finished unit, wheels (can be taken from old furniture), paint, engine oil and anti-corrosion agent.

Receiver assembly

The compressor receiver is a durable container that contains air under pressure. The role played by the car air receiver is to eliminate pulsations during air supply by the compressor, which is carried out by equalizing the pressure in the system. The secondary role of the receiver is the storage of inert gases or condensate.

The receiver capacity is absolutely sealed, and the required volume depends on the cyclicity of air consumption by the consumer and the performance of the air compressor. Using a receiver extends the life of the compressor and is often used in various fields, including painting work, industrial production and other industries.

An automobile air receiver can be manufactured in three ways:

1. Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Well suited for long-term storage of gases under pressure up to 10 atmospheres, it has durable steel walls and is safe to use. A fire extinguisher with a volume of 5-10 liters is sufficient for the receiver. To convert the fire extinguisher into a compressor receiver, you need to remove the shut-off and starting device and put the prepared hose adapter on the hole. The container must be emptied and washed thoroughly. Next, the plumbing cross is installed and sealed. After this, you can use the manufactured receiver for work.
2. Hydraulic accumulator. More specialized device with a sufficient range of capacities. Disadvantage: low nominal pressure. Plus - suitable outlet thread. To use it as a receiver, you need to remove the internal membrane for storing carbon dioxide, and then connect the hose as in the example with a fire extinguisher.
3. Oxygen balloon. Exceptional strength and air pressure of tens of atmospheres, but small capacity, inconvenient transportation and heaviness. To use, just connect the hose - the homemade receiver is ready for use!

A do-it-yourself air receiver can be made from any cylinder for storing compressed gases, but before use you need to make sure that the selected container can withstand the operating pressure of the future compressor.

Final assembly of the compressor unit

The compressor and receiver must be installed on the same common ground for ease of storage and transportation of homemade equipment. The compressor from the refrigerator, found earlier, must be cleaned of rust (if any). Next, the oil in the air compressor is changed, since the old one has probably become unusable. You can’t pour any oil into an air compressor; if you don’t have a special compressor lubricant, you can use motor oil, synthetic oil, or semi-synthetic oil.

Install the compressor and receiver on one common base for easy storage and transportation

The compressor is assembled in five successive steps, as follows:

1. Place the refrigerator blower on the prepared base and secure with threaded rods. The receiver is installed in a vertical position and secured by folded sheets of plywood in the amount of three pieces with a hole for the cylinder. Wheels are screwed to the bottom of the base for easy transportation.
2. Install the compressor and check valve for the air compressor into the air intake hole. For convenience, you can use a rubber hose.
3. At the outlet pipe of the supercharger, install a water separator through a hose - it can be taken from a diesel engine. To prevent the hose from breaking under pressure, it is necessary to strengthen the connection with automotive clamps. A moisture separator must also be installed at the inlet of the gearbox - a device for decoupling the pressure in the receiver and the compressor. The outlet pressure pipe is connected to one of the ends of the water cross.
4. Set to top part a relay crosspiece for adjusting pressure, and a pressure gauge at the free end for control. All joints must be firmly reinforced with fum tape and tightened with clamps to prevent failure.
5. Using a 220 Volt toggle switch, connect the mains phase to the compressor output. Insulate the contacts with electrical tape or dielectric casing.

After connecting the equipment to the network, the oil-fired air compressor can be considered assembled. You can plug the device into the network and check its functionality.

What problems can await during assembly?

Auto air compressors are simple devices in terms of design and operation, but during self-assembly You may encounter the following problems:

1. Oil supply to the wrong hole. Due to the presence of several tubes in the supercharger, it is possible to get confused and pour oil into the wrong hole. To prevent the problem, oil must be poured into either of the two inlet tubes - the outlet tube is excluded.
2. Small diameter of the receiver inlet. If using a standard cylinder thread is not possible, attach the element using flux. The final design can withstand pressure of 5-6 atmospheres.
3. Incorrect connection of blower tubes. In order for circulation in the system to occur smoothly and in one direction, you need to install a check valve on the compressor yourself. It will prevent possible problems and will ensure stable operation of the supercharger.

Try to assemble the oil supercharger with your own hands in full accordance with the instructions, recommendations and safety rules. In this case, there will be no problems with the operation of the equipment.

Setting the required pressure

A motorcycle air compressor or car supercharger must be properly prepared for first use. To get started, you need to set the pressure mode using a relay. The adjustment is carried out using two springs - the large one sets the minimum pressure, the small one sets the maximum. The first contact of the relay is connected to zero, the second is attached to the supercharger.

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When using the equipment for the first time, monitor the pressure gauge readings - the relay should turn the supercharger on and off when the lower and upper limits of the set pressure are reached, respectively. After final adjustments, you can paint the homemade supercharger and continue operation.