When you constantly encounter the problem of excess water appearing on your site, you must take measures to drain it. Otherwise, you will not only get into trouble cultivating the site, but also put at risk of damage to the foundation of the house or nearby commercial buildings. Making drainage, or more precisely, a drainage structure in this situation, is the only acceptable solution.

In this article we will look at a simple and economical way creating drainage on a personal plot.

Preparatory actions

Before you begin the process of assembling and installing a drainage structure, you need to decide what result you would like to achieve. Based on your decision, you need to create for yourself, at least at a primitive level, a project for the future system: determine its location, possible consequences contact between the system and surrounding objects, dimensions, dimensions. Based on the generalization of all this data, it is already possible to calculate the material costs for the acquisition of the entire volume Supplies. By the way, it is useful to understand that the depth of drainage directly depends on the height of the well intended for drainage. It is customary to place the well slightly higher than the elements of the entire structure.

Now about the design itself: traditional (or “French”) drainage is a trench filled with gravel separated from the ground by geotextile (geotextile is used to prevent mixing of soil and gravel, it also allows water to pass through and prevents weeds from growing). Gravel together with geofabric help water to quickly absorb into the soil, evenly distributing moisture along its location, thus preventing the collection and stagnation of water in any specific one place.

When creating drainage of this type, corrugated pipes are usually used, equipped with longitudinal holes on one side, usually made of PVC. At the end of the entire system there should be a drainage tank, the task of which is to uniformly distribute accumulated water into the ground around it. To create this well, a two-hundred-liter plastic barrel in the form of a drum is suitable ( round shape containers are more preferable in this case) with multiple holes in the bottom and walls. This well should be placed on a special gravel “pillow” (about 10 cm), the space between the walls of the pit and the container is also filled with gravel (layer thickness 15 cm). In the upper part of the barrel, holes are made to receive incoming water, and one of the holes is for installing a special drainage grid. There is no need to make many holes, two or three, 5 cm each, are enough. One large hole is made in the upper part of the well wall, intended for the pipe to enter drainage system.

The second large element of such a system is a drainage tank, the width of which should be approximately 30x30 cm. The tank must be equipped with a drain grate. This must be done in the case of providing drainage with a drainpipe, which, when connected to the tank, ensures the flow of clean water into the system. Manual installation of the drainage system on gardening is not a very costly operation. In the manufacture of the system, affordable materials are used and only a small amount is needed. The most expensive part you will need may be the catch basin. A PVC pipe will cost much less. You will need about two cubic meters of gravel. It will also be necessary to purchase a special fabric - geotextiles.

Digging a drainage trench

Next, you need to dig a trench from the drainage area to the drainage area and a hole to install a well on one side and a reservoir on the other. In the place for the drainage well, the hole will need to be deepened by 15 cm compared to the depth of the rest of the trench, the depth of which, in turn, you will need to independently calculate based on the size of the drainage container.

Making a drainage well

Using a drill with a diameter of 2-3 cm, you can easily turn the walls of the tank into a sieve. Through these holes, if possible made at equal intervals, the wastewater entering the barrel should flow evenly into the surrounding soil. On the wall of the barrel, at the top, you should make a hole along the diameter of the drainage pipe and prepare a mount for the pipe.

Filling the trench

Then the dug trench must be covered with geotextile. This will prevent silt and dirt particles from mixing with the gravel. Geotextiles will also ensure better absorption of moisture by the earth. Next, place a prepared two-hundred-liter barrel on an 8-10-centimeter gravel bed. Place a small amount of gravel around the barrel and make sure that the tank does not “move” from side to side. Similar actions should be done with the water collector, which must be made so that its upper edge is along the edge of the earth's surface. The height of the water collector can also be adjusted by adding gravel.

Make sure that the reservoir is also immobilized. Then you need to connect both reservoirs to the drainage pipe. It is important to know that the holes in the drainage pipe should be located on its lower side, and the pipe itself is laid downhill. Fill the trench with gravel. Make sure that 15 cm remains between the surface of the earth and the gravel. Next, install the drainage grate on the tank. Then you need to tuck the geofabric, making sure that the edges of the textile on both sides of the trench overlap, covering each other.

Backfilling with earth

At the final stage of drainage installation, it is necessary to fill the trench well with soil, avoiding soil subsidence and unevenness. If you dig a trench well, then literally within a year you will be able to guess that there is a drainage system under this place only by the “peeping out” gratings. The area where the system is installed can be sown with lawn grass.

Now you know how you can build drainage yourself in just a couple of days without significant costs. The main thing in this matter, as in all others, is careful preparation.

Video How to make drainage on a site with your own hands

Reading time ≈ 14 minutes

As is known, drainage of an area with high level groundwater will improve the land allotment. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, but it is necessary, since the soil is not always suitable for growing, construction and other agricultural work, for example, due to excessive humidity. This device will help remove excess moisture without much expense.

Excess moisture in the soil

High groundwater level - what is it and why does it interfere?

Owners land plots with an excess of moisture there are enough unpleasant moments. Determining excess moisture in the soil is quite simple. The presence of puddles that stagnate and do not disappear for a long time (are not absorbed into the ground). Stagnation can last from several days to a couple of weeks, “delighting” with its presence. But this is not the saddest manifestation. This also includes:

• garden plants and trees get wet;
• partial or complete destruction of building foundations;
• inability to grow your own garden crops.

All this is not so harmless. Two factors can lead to this soil condition. The first factor is the location of your site. Such increased humidity is often observed in areas that are located in lowlands. In this case, melt, rain and other water will flow down and accumulate below. The second factor depends on the level of groundwater. If they are close to the surface, then their excess will be acutely felt.

In any case, it is quite possible to solve this problem, although it will require effort and materials. But in the end you will get soil suitable for work and life. To remove excess water, install special drainage systems. They can be from the most elementary to multi-level branched. It all depends on the degree of waterflooding of your site and, of course, your capabilities. In addition, you can choose the method of creating drainage. There are two ways.

1. Surface drainage. They are installed to drain water from the site that has accumulated as a result of seasonal floods or after large areas.
2. Deep drainage. They are used to directly reduce the level of soil moisture due to the removal of water lying in the soil.

But to accurately select a drainage method, you need to fully understand the true state of the soil and other nuances. And also for what purposes drainage actions will be carried out.

If we talk about the complexity of constructing this system independently, then both methods are quite possible to do at home, without resorting to the help of craftsmen and builders.

Surface drainage: project creation and system construction

Surface drainage can be done in two ways different schemes: linear or point. The dot pattern is suitable for removing moisture from free-standing places of small dimensions. Where water accumulates the most, water intakes are installed that are designed for this. Most often, such elements can be found under regular gutters, at the bottom of the terrace, in driveway areas, where there are recesses in the landscape, and so on.

Point drainage system

It is worth noting that surface drainage is considered the easiest way to get rid of excess moisture in the soil. To make it, you don’t even have to make special diagrams and draw drawings.

If we talk about linear drainage, it requires more effort to create and install. It requires the creation of a schema. This system is used to:

• remove moisture from buildings;
• protect paths from unnecessary water;
• drain entrances;
• prevent the washing away of the most fertile ball of soil and much more.

The design of such a system itself consists of a specially designed set of trenches of small depth, which are laid under the right angle throughout the site and where water accumulates most. To drain an area with a high groundwater level with your own hands, you need to do the following.

• Lay ditches. If the site has clay soil, then this is an ideal option for draining water. ditches are laid throughout the site. Before you do this, you need to create a plan that is easy to draw on paper. The entire ditch system and the very place where the drainage well will be placed will be marked on it. It is in it that all the water from the ground will collect.

Ditches for linear drainage

• Each ditch should be about half a meter wide and about 70 cm deep. The frequency of these trenches depends on how large the amount of water is. The greater the swampiness and clay content of the area, the greater the number of trenches that need to be made.
• For the full and effective operation of open drainage, it is necessary to pay attention to the slope of the ditches. They should be sloping in the direction where the water intake will be located. If your site has uneven terrain, then simply dig down the slope. In case of flat territory, you need to build a slope yourself. If this is not done, then the water will not be removed, but will simply accumulate in the ditches and stagnate.

The slope calculation can also be done based on general instructions. Thus, the minimum slope for sandy soils is considered to be 0.003. For clay soil the indicator is different - 0.002. The water receiver must be located below the very level of the drainage system. As proven by practice, the most the best option to create a slope are indicators in the range from 0.005 to 0.01.

In addition to the slope of the ditch itself, it is necessary to observe the angle of inclination of their walls. It is best to do this at an angle of 30 degrees. In this case, water will easily enter the trench.

• The depth of the trenches is about 50 cm, and the width depends on how close the drainage well is. The edges of the garden drainage system will have the thinnest trenches. And in the place where everything converges into one, there will be the widest part.
• In order not to waste extra time and effort, you need to immediately check the functionality of the system. If water drainage occurs incorrectly or is absent altogether, this ditch needs to be redone. So if you upgrade the system and then check and something goes wrong, you will have to completely redo everything.
• The check is quite simple. It is necessary to use a regular hose to release a strong stream of water through the ditches. Ideally, water should come from not one, but several sources. After turning on the water, see if all the water is directed to the well or if there are “malfunctions” somewhere. You also need to pay attention to the rate of water drainage. If the water drains rather slowly, this indicates that the slope of the drainage system is not large enough and needs to be increased.
• After you have checked the system and are convinced of its full functioning, you can begin to arrange and improve it. After all, constantly observing ordinary dug ditches is not very interesting. Therefore, most owners of such a system try to decorate it in order to make it more aesthetic appearance. Moreover, in addition to beauty, such an action is also purely practical. The walls of trenches tend to crumble and slide. And with the help of pebbles and crushed stone (different fractions are used) this can be prevented.
• The bottom is filled with coarse crushed stone. Crushed stone with a smaller fraction is poured on top of them. The top layer is filled marble chips. An alternative is to use decorative gravel painted in any color. If you take blue pebbles, you will create the effect of real streams on your site. And along the edges/banks you can place plants for greater effect. This way, you will not only have an effective drainage system, but also a real decoration for your yard. Backfilling the trenches allows for the longest possible use of this system.

Ditches decorated to look like streams

• But the trenches, those that run remotely and along the perimeter of the territory, can be covered with special decorative grilles. This looks much nicer, and will also protect the trench from debris and foreign objects getting into it.

Decorative lattice on the drainage ditch

Do not forget that if the trenches remain open, you will have to periodically clean them so that they do not become clogged and perform their functions properly.

With a surface drainage system, the soil in your area will be drained, and you will be able to grow crops in your garden and walk on dry paths.

Construction of deep or closed drainage on your own

If the first option is too simple for you, and the problem lies in the very close approach of groundwater to the surface and its high water content, then you should install a deep drainage system. It is also called closed. To do it, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and take this matter seriously.

In order to build a drainage area with a high groundwater level with your own hands, you need to do everything one by one.

Step 1

Initially, you need to determine at what depth the pipes will need to be laid. This value depends on how close to the surface the groundwater is located. This can be determined by this principle - the denser the earth, the less depth is needed. For example:

• sandy soil - at least one meter;
• loams - about 80 cm;
• for clay soil - about 70-75 cm.

But when determining the depth, do not forget to take into account how deep the soil freezes in winter period. It is necessary to lay the drainage system pipes below the freezing level. This arrangement will allow you to preserve the pipes for as long as possible. After all, they will not be deformed or damaged due to freezing of residual water during the frosty period.

Video: site drainage

Step 2

It is necessary to select pipes and the material from which they will be made. Today, drainage systems are most often made from pipes made of perforated plastic. The cost of such material is lower than ceramic products. And its safety is many times higher, especially when compared with asbestos cement.

But regardless of the material chosen, the pipe itself should be prepared and protected to prevent small particles of sand or earth from getting inside. After all, sooner or later the pipe will become clogged and stop performing its functions.

For such protection it is good to use special geotextiles. They need to wrap all the pipes, just take into account the type of soil.

In the case of clay soil, the use of geotextile materials is not necessary. But instead, create a special pillow of gravel, about twenty centimeters thick. Such a pillow is not needed on loams, but the use of fabric with filtering functions is mandatory. But if you are the owner of a site with sandy soil, then you need to wrap the pipes with geotextiles and create a gravel cushion from below and above.

Why is such a pillow needed? The fact is that such a layer of sand and gravel is necessary for the drainage pipe. After all, its role is to depreciate. In addition, this is an additional filter ball that traps large particles of soil and other debris that are brought from groundwater and negatively affect the system pipes.

If you buy ready-made pipes for drainage, they are made from perforated plastic. And the pipe itself is already wrapped in filter fabric, so you don't have to do it yourself. This way you will significantly save your time and finances.

Finished pipe for the drainage system

Step 3

Preparing a place for a water receiver. Even before the start construction work you need to choose a place where all collected groundwater will flow. There can be many options. The easiest way is to create an exit from a suitable pipe that will extend beyond the summer cottage, and the water will flow into the ditch.

The ideal option is to construct a drainage well. Its purpose has a broader meaning. For example, in addition to collecting excess water from the soil, such a well will help you survive dry periods. After all, you can then take water from it to water the garden and other economic needs. In addition, removing the pipe is not always possible.

Drainage well at the dacha

Step 4

Excavation work begins with digging ditches. They, as in the previous version, should be done at some angle. If there are no other indicators, then for every meter of trench there should be seven centimeters of slope. Use a building level to check the degree of slope. This should be done as often as possible so as not to have to redo it in case of deviation.

It is best to arrange the trenches in a herringbone pattern. In this option, all the side grooves are collected into one central one. For central pipe needs to be used with a wider diameter. It is from this that all the water will flow into the well.

Pipe arrangement according to herringbone pattern

Step 5

Before laying pipes, care must be taken to prepare the bottom of the ditch. Avoid uneven surfaces and sharp changes at the bottom. The pipe must run on a level bottom to avoid damage and deformation in the future. After all, where there are breaks in the soil, the pipe itself will sag under soil pressure and break. Therefore, it is best to make a pillow before laying for additional cushioning.

Place about 10 centimeters of sand at the bottom. It is necessary to choose a coarse-grained option. A ball of crushed stone of the same thickness is placed on top. After leveling the pillow, you can begin laying pipes.

There are situations when creating such a protective cushion is impossible. Then you need to stock up on geotextiles and line the entire trench with it. This will prevent silting of the drainage pipes.

Pipe cushion

Attention! When selecting filter fabrics, you should choose those that have low density. If you take very dense options, then groundwater will not quickly seep through it.

Step 6

Installation of a closed drainage system. All pipes must be laid in ditches in accordance with the plan created initially. Then they all need to be collected and connected into one network. To connect, use tees and crosses of suitable diameter.

Collecting pipes into a network

Step 7

After the entire network is completely assembled, it is necessary to fill it with sand. The layer should be from 10 to 15 cm. Crushed stone of the same thickness is laid on top of the sand. The void that remains is filled with ordinary soil so much that small ridges can be formed. Don't worry about their visibility. The fact is that over time the soil will settle and all the balls will shrink. Therefore, the formed hills will descend to ground level.

Step 8

The drainage system on your site is ready for use. The main thing is to follow simple rules so that the installed network works properly and for as long as possible. To do this, you do not need to drive heavy equipment through areas where pipes pass. After all, the pipes will be strongly pressed, which can cause damage. That is why it is better to carry out all construction work on your site before installing this drainage system. So we build the house first, and only then the drainage. The fact is that building it is easier than searching for damage and repairing it.

Drainage system on site

It is worth noting that the drainage network is installed not only to drain excess water. Sometimes its installation is necessary to ensure the vital activity of trees and other plants growing on the site, which are negatively affected by excess moisture.

For such a system, the calculation can be made using a simplified scheme. In order to determine the depth of drains, average values ​​are taken. Therefore, pipes can lie at a depth of 60-150 cm.

Just keep these points in mind:

1. for fruit-bearing trees – 150 cm;
2. for forest trees – 90 cm;
3. for a flower bed, lawn or flower garden – 85-90 cm.

But on peat soil, the trenches should lie lower. After all, such soil is characterized by very strong subsidence. Therefore, the pipes extend from one meter to 160 cm.

Now you can find a lot of information about drainage options depending on the type of soil and other features. To fully assess all the features of the upcoming work, it is necessary to study the materials. In addition to the information, it is best to watch the video below, which will help you learn about all the nuances of installing drainage.

Video: installing drainage

But still, do not forget that each drainage system must fully correspond not only to your area, but also to your individual needs and capabilities.

Complete and effective drainage of an area with a high groundwater level will help you remove excess water from the soil. At the same time, you can create a design with your own hands that is no worse than a purchased one. This way you can not only live there comfortably, but also do any agricultural work and grow food in the garden. And in excessive saturated with water in soils this is simply impossible.

Greetings, friends!

Often the land allocated by the architectural department for a summer cottage plot does not meet the owner’s expectations. One common problem is excessive soil moisture. The result of this is poor tree growth and various diseases of garden and vegetable plants. And this is not the only trouble that results from waterlogged soil.

Water accumulating in the soil leads to erosion of the foundation. Country house and other buildings on the plots may begin to settle, and the cellar and basements will be flooded every spring. In addition, when wet soil freezes, it rises and puts pressure on the blind area around buildings and garden paths, which leads to the formation of cracks.

There is a way out of this situation - it is necessary make drainage in your area. This task is not particularly difficult, and the entire complex of work will take no more than two weeks. And the time and effort spent will pay off - this way you will be able to avoid many troubles, increase the durability of buildings and provide yourself with a good harvest in the garden.

You can’t do without drainage systems:

1. In areas with clay soil, where even a little rain will lead to the appearance of long-standing puddles.
2. In areas with a high groundwater horizon.
3. In areas with a horizontal ground surface and no drainage.
4. In areas located at the foot of the slopes.

Types of drainage systems

Excessive soil moisture in a summer cottage can have two reasons. The first of them is the high clay content in the soil. Such soil does not drain water well; as a result, water from rain and melting snow accumulates and stagnates in the top layer of soil. Another reason is the close location of groundwater to the soil surface. These waters are a serious problem for building foundations and basements, especially in the spring.

Based on the reason for the increased soil moisture, an appropriate type of drainage system can be used to remove excess water. There are two main types of drainage systems - open and closed. The first of them can be used for clay soil - when it is quite enough to remove water from the surface layer. To drain groundwater, only closed-type drainage is applicable.

What is open drainage?

An open or surface drainage system can be created either according to a previously developed project or without it. There are two ways to make open drainage:

• local method
• creation of a ditch system

The first method is the most simple option drainage system. In this case, water is not drained from the entire territory of the site as a whole, but only from those places that are subject to flooding in spring, autumn or during prolonged rainy weather.

The first step in constructing an open drainage is to identify the areas of greatest stagnation of water. In these places, water intake wells are dug or containers dug into the ground to collect water. The water that accumulates there can be used to water garden crops in the future. The most water collects in the following places:

• at the lowest point of the site;
• in areas with a flat surface - for example, in front of the porch;
• in depressions on the surface of the earth.

In the case where water accumulates at the border of the site, a ditch is dug to drain the water beyond its territory. If the place with excess soil moisture is located in the depths of the site, then a drainage well is dug.

Laying the ditch system

This method of reclamation is also used in clay soil conditions. In this case, a network of drainage ditches is created throughout the area. Water collected from the entire territory is drained through ditches into a catchment well. The drainage ditches system is constructed in accordance with a previously developed scheme.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

To ensure high-quality drainage, when digging ditches, a slope in the direction of the drainage basin must be maintained. If there is a natural slope, the bottom of the trench is made parallel to the earth's surface. If the ground surface on the site is horizontal, then it is necessary to make an artificial slope. Otherwise, water will stagnate in the ditches.

The number of drainage ditches is set in accordance with the level of soil moisture. The more clay the soil contains, the more trenches need to be dug. The minimum depth of the ditch should be fifty centimeters. The width of the trench is determined by the distance from the water intake. The maximum width should be the ditch into which water flows from the entire network and which directly flows into the reservoir.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

Once the trench network has been dug, it must be tested. To do this, you need to artificially run a stream of water through it. In places where this flow is delayed, the slope of the ditch should be increased.

How does closed drainage work?

A closed drainage system can be pipe or reservoir. A pipe drainage system consists of pipes laid in the ground at a certain depth, the value of which is determined by the density of the soil. The looser the soil, the deeper the pipes must be laid. To create closed drainage, special perforated pipes are used, into the holes of which water from the soil penetrates, which then flows through the system into a drainage basin, drainage tunnel, or stormwater well.

Due to the fact that laying closed drainage is much more expensive than creating open system, this method of reclamation justifies itself only when the groundwater boundary is closer than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth.

Reservoir drainage is a filter bed made of crushed stone, which is laid at the base of the building.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

In areas with a rainy climate and frequent downpours, it is necessary to equip combined option drainage - a combination of a deep drainage system with storm water. You can create either one or one consisting of ditches.

Accessories for drainage systems

Before installing a drainage system, you need to decide on its type. The correct choice of drainage type is determined by the specific local conditions. When the type of drainage system is chosen, you must first develop a plan, establish what materials and in what quantities are needed for this, and calculate the construction estimate.

Materials needed for drainage construction open type, depend on which trench option will be chosen - backfill or tray. For backfill ditches you will need small and large crushed stone, as well as geotextiles.

Trench trenches are more effective for drainage. For their construction, ready-made trays are used, the material for which can be:

• concrete;
• concrete with polymer filler;
• plastic.

The best option is plastic trays, which weigh little and, at the same time, are quite durable.

When constructing a closed type drainage, you will need special pipes, geotextiles and crushed stone.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

The use of geotextiles in the construction of a drainage system is highly desirable - this material allows only water to pass through and retains solid particles. Thus, it prevents the drainage from gradually filling with silt.

Regardless of what kind of drainage system is being built, open or closed, to carry out the work you need to acquire a level and a laser rangefinder, which are needed to study the topography of the site and draw up a correct plan for the system. In order to maintain the required slope when digging trenches and laying pipes, you will need a level. These tools can only be dispensed with when constructing local catch basins.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site video

The procedure for performing work during the construction of drainage systems

In order to successfully build drainage on summer cottage, you need to be guided by the following general considerations:

1. The construction of a closed drainage system requires a large volume earthworks. In this regard, it is necessary to build drainage even before trees are planted on the site, and even better - before the foundation of the buildings is laid.
2. Before work begins, a detailed plan of the system must be drawn up. To do this, it is necessary to study the terrain, determine the highest and lowest points on the site, and set the value of the required slope.
3. When designing a closed system, inspection wells should be included in the plan to ensure the possibility of servicing the drainage system.
4. When laying a drainage pipeline, the recommended slope is from two to ten millimeters per meter of pipe.

How to build an open drainage system

Construction of an open drainage system is a much easier task than laying a closed drainage system, since it does not require digging deep trenches. When laying a network of trenches, a plan for their location is first drawn up. Then trenches are dug. Typically, the main ditches are laid along the perimeter of the site, and auxiliary ditches - from the places of greatest accumulation of water. In this case, the depth of the trench should be from fifty to seventy centimeters, the width should be about half a meter. Auxiliary trenches should slope towards the main ditches, and the main trenches should slope towards the drainage basin. The walls of the trench should not be vertical, but beveled. The angle of inclination should be from twenty-five to thirty degrees.

The further progress of work depends on what kind of system is being built, backfill or tray. When constructing a backfill system, the ditch is first filled with crushed stone - coarse to 2 thirds of the depth, and then fine. Turf is laid on top of the crushed stone. To prevent silting of crushed stone, it is advisable to cover it with geotextiles.

The construction of a tray drainage includes the following steps:

1. Laying trenches while maintaining the required slope.
2. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom of the ditches, which must then be compacted tightly.
3. Installation of trays and sand traps, which are plastic parts that prevent sand and debris from entering the drainage, and thereby protect the system from silting.
4. Covering the ditches at the top with gratings, which prevent clogging of the trenches with fallen leaves and various debris, and also serve an aesthetic function.

How to build a closed drainage

The construction of a closed drainage system consists of the following steps:

1. Studying the topography of the site using a level and a laser range finder, and constructing a drainage network plan. If surveying instruments are not available, then you should wait heavy rain and observe the movement of rainwater streams.
2. Laying trenches for the drainage pipeline.
3. Filling the bottom of the trenches with a layer of sand seven to ten centimeters thick, followed by compaction.
4. Laying geotextiles in the trench, with the edges of the fabric protruding beyond the sides of the ditch.
5. Laying a twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone on top of the geotextile, serving as a filter. In this case, limestone crushed stone should not be used, as this may result in the formation of a salt marsh.
6. Laying pipes on a layer of crushed stone. In this case, their holes should be directed downwards.
7. Sprinkling crushed stone over the pipes and covering it on top with the edges of a geotextile fabric, which will filter water from suspended particles, thereby preventing siltation of the system.
8. Filling ditches with soil over which turf can be laid.

The drainage system should end with a well for collecting water, which must be dug at the lowest point of the site. From this well, water can be discharged into a natural reservoir, into a ravine, or into a general storm drain, if there is one in a given locality.

A properly constructed drainage system will prevent problems associated with excessive dampness, which is why its construction is mandatory in areas with wet soil. And those dacha owners who are not confident that they can cope with the construction of drainage on their own should contact specialists and pay the required amount, but should not try to save on such an important functional element of the dacha as drainage.

Well, that's all, guys - I hope I was able to answer your question: " How to make drainage on a site with your own hands". Good luck to everyone!

If excess water collects on your site, you need to take some measures to drain it. Otherwise, you will not only lose the opportunity to create lush flower beds and a garden, but also expose the foundation of your home to danger. Installing a drainage system in such a situation is an excellent solution, and this article will tell you how to bring this idea to life, saving not only on materials, but also on time.

Drainage preparation

Before installing drainage in your dacha with your own hands, you need to clearly understand what you want to achieve and what kind of result you want to see. Therefore, having a clear picture of the future system before your eyes is very important.

Take measurements of your site and decide at what depth you will lay the drainage (the depth will depend on the height of the drainage “well”, since it will be higher than other structural elements).

Traditional French drainage is a trench filled with gravel, which is separated from the ground by geofabric (it is needed so that the earth does not mix with the gravel, it also allows water to pass through well and does not allow weeds to germinate). Gravel and geotextile allow moisture to be absorbed into the soil faster, distributing it throughout the area where they are located, rather than collecting in one place. When arranging such drainage, corrugated pipes with longitudinal holes on one side, for example, made of PVC, are often used.

As a drainage “well”, which should be located at the end of the system, you can take a 200 liter plastic drum (barrel) with holes in the walls and bottom. It is located on a bed of gravel 8-10 cm thick, and a wall is “built” around it, also made of gravel 15 cm thick.

Holes should be made in the 200 liter drum (top). They will serve as additional slots for water to enter, and one of them will become the location for installing the second drain grate, which will be discussed later. Two or three 5 cm holes will be enough. It is also necessary to make one large hole on the top wall for the pipe (see photo).

Another element is a drainage tank. Its width should be about 30x30cm. It is advisable that it be equipped with a drain grate, especially if the French drain is provided with a downspout. By connecting the pipe to the reservoir, you ensure that clean water enters the system (without sludge or other debris that can pass through the grate).

In order to make drainage with your own hands, you don’t need to spend a lot. The most expensive thing you will buy will most likely be a catch basin, and the cheapest one will be a pipe. As for gravel, you will need about 2 m3 (1-2 cm granules). You will also need geofabric.

Digging a trench

Dig a trench with a “well” and a reservoir on either side. In the place for the first, the hole should be 10-15 cm deeper than in other parts of the trench.

Calculate the depth depending on the height of the drainage “well” (after installing it and filling it with gravel, there should be no more than 15 cm between the second and the surface of the earth).

Preparing the drainage “well”

Use a 2-3cm drill bit to turn the sides and bottom of the well into Swiss cheese.

And on the wall on top, cut a hole of a size suitable for the diameter of the pipe, and also install a base for its fastening.

Filling the trench

Line the trench with geofabric for drainage.

This will prevent silt and dirt from getting in and mixing with the gravel. It will also ensure better absorption of moisture by the soil. An 8-10 cm gravel bed should be made only in the place where the 200 liter barrel will be placed.

Install it. Sprinkle some gravel around. Make sure the barrel is not moving.

The top of the reservoir should be placed at ground level - just below the asphalt, so if necessary (if you need to raise the reservoir a little), you can install it on a thin bed of gravel.

Place gravel around it, making sure it is immobilized.

Connect the drainage “well” and the water collector to the pipe. Remember, the holes in the pipe should point downwards, and the pipe itself should be on a slope. Fill the trench with gravel, as shown in the photo, until 15 cm remains between the surface of the earth and the gravel. Then install the drain grate on the barrel.

At this point, the drainage on the dacha plot is not completed. Wrap the geofabric so that the end on one side lies on the other - lying opposite, overlapping.

Backfilling with earth

Filling the hole with earth is the final stage. You can also put already sprouted lawn grass in this place.

Now you know how to make drainage with your own hands in just a week or even faster, without spending a lot of effort and money. In a similar way, you can make your own drainage around the house.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site: photo, video instructions

How to make drainage with your own hands? See photos and videos of creating drainage on the site with your own hands. On our website you will learn everything about the drainage system at home. How to make drainage around your house yourself? Drainage system diagram.

Drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture

Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. The simplest way to improve the water balance of the soil must be mandatory, because the moisture ratio at different periods of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

A simple system for draining water from a building

Open and closed channels

Soil drainage can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed channels that do not interfere with the attractiveness of the landscape.

Open drainage around a residential building using trays and grates

Surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to a central drain or drain well. The advantages include:

• high construction speed;
• low costs;
• sufficient level of efficiency;
• ease of cleaning.

Drainage trench at the edge of a suburban area

Closed drainage systems

Systems with deep lines are ideal for draining both stormwater and groundwater located in the immediate vicinity. Most often they are arranged using polymer pipes, which sink into the ground at a certain distance.

Closed piping system designed for point moisture collection

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

• point (water collection occurs in one place);
• linear (moisture collection is ensured throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within one site, the presented species can be combined. For example, point collection can be used for the drainage system of a house, and linear collection can be used for groundwater.

Drainage well for a deep system made of a pipe with a large diameter

Drainage in a summer cottage: the simplest method of installation for specific conditions

Before making a drainage system on a site, it is necessary to select its type based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for installing water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

A drainage system is being created from the foundation of the house.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

If groundwater is close to the groundwater level, a deep linear system may be the best option. It will drain moisture from the entire area into a drainage well, ravine or ditch located a level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in a geotextile filter as the main elements.

Special pipeline with perforation and geotextile

One of the most simple ways drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

• A trench is dug to the distance where the soil freezes. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. A layer of sand is poured for leveling.
• Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
• Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again filled with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile are rolled up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is filled with soil.

Visual diagram of closed drainage with linear collection

At high groundwater levels, the drainage system takes on a tree-like appearance

Septic tank for a dacha with high groundwater level. IN separate material information is provided on the design of septic tanks at high groundwater levels, installation and operating rules.

Installation of open drainage with your own hands on an area with clay soil

For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. At closed system pipelines, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go into specialized sedimentation tanks or other suitable places.

Excavation work is underway to construct a drainage system

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the receiving site. It is necessary to make the widest trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Because open view trenches spoil the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves aesthetic properties, but also strengthens side surfaces open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.

Decoration process open channels stone

Stones of different sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be placed on the bottom, and the medium and small ones should be placed on top. If you have good financial resources, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the outlet lines a respectable appearance.

If with in cash tight, then ordinary brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and placed on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

Lines in the invisible part of the site can be strengthened with ordinary slate

The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Drainage system around the house. Drainage arrangement, nuances of installation work and useful recommendations in a special publication in our online magazine.

Average prices for turnkey plot drainage

Many companies offer professional services on the construction of drainage systems, but they are not so cheap. During the work, a double-wall pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

The pipeline is connected to a plastic well

Drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to drain water

Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. We will examine the simplest method and why it is so important in detail in this review.

Do-it-yourself site drainage: technology for constructing deep and surface options

Excess humidity brings a lot of trouble to owners of summer cottages and suburban areas. The first signs of the phenomenon are stagnant puddles, which can “delight” with their existence for several days, or even weeks. If you can put up with them, then other manifestations of high humidity: soaking of plants and trees on the site, destruction of the foundations of buildings, are far from so harmless. If the land is located in a lowland or the groundwater level is high, do not despair; you need to drain the site yourself.

To remove excess moisture, a drainage system is used, which can be done in two ways. There are superficial and deep drainage. The first is used to drain water from the territory that accumulates after seasonal floods or heavy rainfall.

The second is designed to reduce soil moisture by draining groundwater. In general, the type of drainage is selected depending on the condition of the site and the requirements of its owner. Despite the significant differences between the types of drainage, each of them can be performed independently.

Design and construction of surface drainage

Surface drainage systems can be of two types: linear and point. The latter are intended to drain water from small isolated areas on the territory. Special point drainage water intakes are placed in places where water accumulates. These can be areas under drains, at the bottom of terraces, in depressions in the relief, at entrance areas, etc. This system is considered the simplest and does not require a special diagram.

Point drainage water intakes are located in places where water accumulates

Linear drainage is more difficult to design and install. It is used to remove moisture from buildings, protect paths and entrances from water, prevent the washout of the fertile soil layer on the site, etc. The structure is a specially designed system of shallow trenches laid at a certain angle, which runs along the perimeter of the site and in places of maximum water accumulation.

Before starting work, a drainage project for the site is drawn up, which involves the presence of a main trench to collect moisture flowing into the ditches. It should end in a water intake, which can be a storm drain or a ravine. During the design process, it is necessary to consider all places where moisture stagnates and lay trenches from them to the main drainage system.

It is also necessary to correctly calculate the slope of the structures, otherwise water will not flow down them. Minimum drainage slope sandy soils should be no less than 0.003, in clayey ones - 0.002. The water intake must be located below the level of linear drainage. Practice shows that the best result is obtained with a slope ranging from 0.005 to 0.01. To arrange surface drainage plot with your own hands, you can use two methods:

Open. Assumes the presence of open trenches dug according to the drainage pattern. The walls of the structures are usually formed at an angle of 30°, which allows water to flow into the ditch without problems. The width of the structure is 0.5 m and the depth is 0.7 m. The main advantage of the system is its simplicity of implementation. A serious drawback is the unaesthetic appearance, which spoils the impression of the site. In addition, the unreinforced walls of the trench quickly crumble and the structure becomes unusable.

Crushed stone filling prevents the destruction of the trench, but at the same time reduces its throughput

Important: To solve the problem of crumbling walls of the drainage trench, crushed stone filling can be used. To do this, the lower part of the groove is filled with coarse crushed stone, and the upper part with smaller fractions. The top of the structure can be covered with turf. Such a drainage arrangement on the site helps prevent soil sliding and preserve the trench, but at the same time seriously reduces its throughput.

Closed. It consists of using special drainage trays, which are placed directly in the trenches and covered with gratings on top. The structures protect the grooves from soil sliding, and the gratings prevent debris from getting inside the drainage structure. Trays can be concrete, polymer concrete or plastic, which are considered the most popular today due to their light weight and exceptional durability.

The grid covering the tray can be made of metal or plastic

Deep drainage system: subtleties of design and installation

Deep drainage is designed to reduce soil moisture. For the system to work effectively, it must be located below the groundwater level. Determining it will definitely require the help of a specialist, since it is impossible to do this on your own. Must be ordered to surveyors detailed plan area where the aquifer level should be marked, which will allow the structure to be accurately designed.

It happens that a drainage system on a site is needed only to ensure the vital activity of plants suffering from excess moisture. In this case, you can use a simplified calculation option. To determine the depth of drains, average values ​​are used. Pipes can be located at levels from 0.6 to 1.5 m. You need to know that for fruit trees it will be 1.5, for forests - 0.9, for lawns, flower beds and flower beds - about 0.9 m. In areas with peat soils, deeper trenches must be equipped, since such soils settle very quickly. The depth of laying drains will vary from 1 to 1.6 m.

To arrange the drainage system, special perforated pipes are used. Initially, asbestos-cement or ceramic structures were used, which today have given way to plastic ones. Drains are pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, equipped with a network of holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Some models may be equipped with a special filter shell that prevents debris from entering the openings. Plastic pipes are durable, lightweight, and very easy to install.

In order to arrange deep drainage of a summer cottage with your own hands, you should first of all draw up a project that will reflect the depth of the drainage pipes and show where they will pass. As in the case of a surface drainage system, it is assumed that there is a main trench that collects moisture from all secondary pipes and ends in the water intake: gutter, pond or special storage well.

Perforated pipes for deep drainage are laid on a bed of sand and crushed stone

There are several stages in the process of installing a drainage system:

• Trench equipment. In the places marked in the project, we dig channels about 40 cm wide. The depth of the structure can be different, it depends on the groundwater level. A sand cushion is laid out at the bottom, and a layer of crushed stone is placed on top of it, on top of which a drainage pipe is placed. In some cases, it can be wrapped with geotextile to protect the holes from possible clogging.

Installation of inspection wells. To control the drainage process and necessary cleaning of the system, special wells are installed. They can be made of reinforced concrete rings, but if the depth at which the drainage is laid does not exceed 3 m, corrugated pipes are used different diameters. Structures must be equipped with covers to prevent various debris from entering them. On a straight line, wells are placed every 35-50 m and after one turn in a winding trench.

Wells are located in places where the trench turns and every 35-50 m on a straight line

• Backfilling of the structure. The drain is covered with layers of crushed stone and sand. Some manuals explaining how to drain a site suggest separating sand from crushed stone with geotextiles to prevent them from mixing. The laid pipe together with the crushed stone-sand cushion should not occupy more than half the height of the trench. The remaining area is covered with compacted loam and upper layer fertile soil. Ideally, the area under which there are drainage pipes, should not stand out.

When thinking about how to make drainage on a site, you need to know that this work can be done independently. The main thing is to determine the type of system that is needed to drain the soil, carry out a competent design and correctly install the structure. Then it will be possible to forget forever about the troubles that came from excess moisture Location on.

Do-it-yourself site drainage - step-by-step technology devices

Everything about do-it-yourself site drainage - types of drainage systems, their design, arrangement and stages of installation of a deep system and surface drainage. Video with examples of work.

How to properly drain a garden plot with your own hands: we analyze the correct technology for arrangement

Some owners of private houses and garden plots are faced with the problem of ground flooding as a result of precipitation or exposure to groundwater. To avoid such a situation, a drainage system is installed throughout the entire area to absorb and remove excess moisture.

Anyone can make garden drainage with their own hands without much expense.

Prerequisites for the construction of a drainage system

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

1. The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
2. Groundwater is noted at a level close to the earth's surface.
3. The site is located in a lowland, river valley or drained swamp area.
4. The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
5. The dacha was built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with underlying clay soils: sandy loam, loam. During periods of heavy rainfall and snow melting, this type of rock allows water to pass through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Stagnation of water at the level of soil development is associated with waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively multiplies, infections and pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases of vegetable crops, rotting of the roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

If the problem of waterlogging of the soil is not addressed, erosion of the soil may occur over time. In frosty weather, soil layers containing water will swell, which can cause damage to the foundation, paved paths and other landscaping facilities.

To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out the throughput of the soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the maximum.

If the water is absorbed within a day, then the underlying soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not go away, it means that clay rocks lie under the soil and plant layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

If a drainage system is not implemented in a timely manner, the following problems threaten country properties:

• flooding of cellars, ground floors, additional buildings located below ground level - this subsequently leads to damage wall materials, the formation of mold and fungi, rotting of furniture, stairs and other wooden structures;
• waterlogging of the soil due to its saturation with moisture, which leads to low yields, rotting of the roots of vegetable crops, plants, death of trees and other plantings;
• Dips, depressions, and pits may form on the site, resulting in the destruction of paved paths and tiles - all this negatively affects the landscape of the garden area.

In winter, when the PRS and the underlying heaving soils, lying above the seasonal freezing level, freeze, the water contained in the pores of the earth will expand. An increase in the volume of soil threatens the destruction of structures buried in it and resting on the ground.

Let's look at the types of drainage systems and their features.

Main types of drainage systems

Before you start drawing up a work plan, purchasing equipment and materials, you need to determine which system is appropriate to implement so that it works as efficiently as possible.

There are three types of drainage systems:

• surface (open) - is a ditch on the surface of the earth, used to remove excess moisture formed due to partial rains or melting snow;
• deep (closed) - water is drained using a system of pipes and wells; the system is used in case of risk of flooding of the garden by precipitation and/or groundwater;
• backfill - the principle of its construction is the same as deep, only drainage material without pipes is used; Suitable for drying areas during precipitation.

Each of the above technologies has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The surface drainage network is often combined with storm sewers that collect and drain atmospheric precipitation. Storm drains are equipped with two types of water collectors: point and linear.

Stormwater as an addition to drainage

Storm sewer is a set of drainage pipes with a well for storing moisture, through which it is transferred to the water intake. Before the water enters the well, there is a special siphon partition (grid) designed to clean the incoming liquid from debris, as a result of which the system does not become clogged and an unpleasant odor does not appear in it.

Stormwater sewer system with linear type water collectors, it is a series of trays located at a slope towards the place where moisture is collected. The containers are placed in ditches with a layer of gravel at the bottom. The technology is used when the slope of the daytime surface of the site does not exceed 30 degrees relative to the horizon.

The main difference between a point system and a linear system is that a point system uses a pipe system located underground. Water is collected through so-called “points” - special storm drains equipped with a permeable grid. This solution makes the structure almost invisible on the site.

Sometimes one type of system is not enough for an area, so to maintain optimal level moisture they can be combined.

The type of system must be selected individually, taking into account landscape and geological features. For example, if the house is located far from a reservoir, then you can limit yourself to open drainage. If the mansion is located on a landslide-prone slope in a river valley, then it is better to use several systems at the same time.

Closed drainage device

A closed system is a network of trenches in which pipes and drainage material are laid. Drainage can be laid both over the entire area and in a specific area that requires drainage.

The deep drainage system consists of the following elements:

• drainage pipes;
• well (drainage);
• pump for pumping water.

To implement the system, it is necessary to dig trenches, install pipes, and construct drainage systems.

To install a water supply system in a trench you will need:

The system is effectively used in case of flooding of the site with groundwater.

Drawing up a diagram of the arrangement of elements

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to draw up a site plan, noting residential, domestic and commercial objects, as well as shrubs, trees, and flower beds.

Then you need to draw up a diagram of the location of the trenches. There are 4 main types of schemes:

• snake arrangement;
• parallel device;
• laying drains in a herringbone pattern;
• trapezoidal position.

You can choose the pattern yourself, but most often the herringbone marking is used.

Ditches can be located around the perimeter of the territory and along the contour of the house. In the area where vegetables and flowers will grow, a network is built taking into account the requirements, which will be discussed below.

Technical requirements for installation

When building a trench, the following requirements must be taken into account:

• the depth should be 1-1.2 m, and the width should be 35-40 cm;
• Near trees, a trench is dug to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m, near forest plantations - 70-90 cm, near flower beds - 60-80 cm;
• if at the PRS level of the site it prevails peat soil, then, given that it shrinks quickly, the depth of the trench should not be less than a meter;
• if the area is relief, then the depth can reach a meter; if it is flat or with a slight slope, then digging a trench less than 1.5 m deep is ineffective;
• on clayey soils: sandy loam, loam, trenches are dug at a distance of 7-10 m from each other, on well-drained soils: sand, gravel and crushed stone deposits - at 15-20 m;
• The drainage system should be located further than 1 meter from the foundation of the house, and the minimum permissible distance to the fence is 50 cm.

To construct an open drainage system, you should select special pipes with a mesh. Their diameter can vary from 0.15 to 0.5 cm. It is better to avoid using asbestos-cement or ceramic drains, since they are impractical and require preliminary preparation, frequent washing, quickly become clogged.

For the installation of closed drainage branches, it is recommended to give preference to perforated pipes made of polymer or composite materials. Some modifications are equipped with a special filter shell (geotextile), which prevents clogging of the system.

The diameter of the collector must be greater than the diameter of the pipe. If the area of ​​the site being developed is more than 0.5 hectares, then the diameters can be equal.

The slope of the system towards the collector should be 2-3 mm for each meter of pipe with a diameter of 5-10 cm. If it is planned to use a pipe of a larger diameter, then the slope should be less.

Owners of land plots in lowlands or on steep slope They face a problem when water stagnates in the lowest place, when the water intake can be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well into which it is necessary to introduce drainage pump. With its help, water is pumped upward and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

Work progress during the construction of the system

The first thing you need to do before digging a trench is to build a drainage well. Its depth should be 2-3 m, and its diameter should be up to 1 meter.

The most reliable well is a concrete one. However, install concrete rings It is not always possible to do it manually, so you will have to resort to lifting equipment. In addition, high cost and fragility are disadvantages of concrete structures.

Plastic well – special design, made of polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, is practical and high quality, effectively withstands soil pressure. The advantage of a reservoir well is that it has pipe bends, and the package includes: rubber cuffs ensuring tight connections.

You can also pave a brick well yourself, make a structure from rubber and other available materials.

A drainage pump is subsequently installed in the well, which pumps water into a drainage system - sewer, well or other natural water intake.

To protect conventional plastic pipes from clogging, so-called “external” filters made from straw, fibrous peat, and weaving waste are used.

After digging trenches, perform the following steps.

1. Fill the trench with 10 cm of sand, after which a layer of geotextile is laid so that the edges of the fabric are higher than the recess.
2. Cover the geotextile with crushed stone to a depth of 20 cm.
3. Drainage pipes are laid.
4. The pipes are covered with gravel or crushed stone of sedimentary rocks to a height of 30-40 cm, then with coarse or gravelly sand to a height of 30 cm.
5. Roll up the geotextile - it will retain small particles and allow the system to clog.
6. Geotextiles are sprinkled on top fertile layer earth - soil.
7. The pipes are connected to the well.

The technology for constructing a backfill drainage system differs from a deep drainage system in that it does not include pipes. The trenches are filled with large crushed stone or broken bricks and covered with small stones or gravel.

Open Circuit Implementation

To create surface systems, the same rules for constructing a trench are used as for implementing deep ones.

For an open system, it is enough to build ditches 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m thick. The walls are made with a slope, the bevel angle is 30 degrees. The ditch is drained into a drainage well, which is common to the plots, or into any other water intake.

The walls of open drainage ditches are compacted, sometimes reinforced with cobblestones or rubble stones, and lined with concrete tiles.

Extending drain life

A backfill type drainage system can function effectively for 5-7 years, while deep and open drainage structures with high-quality pipes allow you to forget about the problem of waterlogging for 50 years. But this is possible subject to periodic network maintenance.

There are 4 rules for caring for the system.

1. Large equipment should not pass through the area where the pipes are located - the road for it should be paved separately.
2. Regular loosening of the soil will improve its water permeability, which will ensure good operation of the system.
3. Once every 2-3 years, the pipes should be washed under high pressure of water, cleaning them from particles of clay and rust.
4. Excavation work for installation should be carried out on damp ground.

Carrying out simple tips, you can extend the life of the equipment and avoid repairs.

Installing drainage into the ground saves owners of acres of land from many problems. By installing a drainage system, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the crops or the general appearance of the area when humidity rises.

Do-it-yourself garden drainage: options and technology

How to make drainage for a garden plot with your own hands, what drainage system to choose, how to implement it in practice. Useful tips, diagrams, expert recommendations.

In areas with a predominance of clay or marshy soils, it is advisable to equip a drainage system. It will help avoid excessive waterlogging of the soil, increase productivity, and protect the foundation of the house from natural soaking and premature destruction.

General scheme of the drainage of the adjacent area

How to determine the need for a drainage system

The surest sign of increased soil moisture is the massive growth of plants, typical of swampy areas. These include weeping willow, sedge, and reed.

In addition to plants, evidence of the close occurrence of groundwater will be puddles that remain after rain or spring melting of snow. If they do not go away for a long time, then there is enough other moisture in the ground.

It doesn’t always rain, so it’s much easier to use a long-proven method of checking the soil moisture level. To do this, you need to dig a hole about half a meter deep at the highest point of the site. If water collects at the bottom within 24 hours, it means that the area needs drainage.

Types of drainage systems

There are several types of systems that drain areas with high groundwater levels. Before installing any of them, it is worth understanding the installation methods more carefully.

Types of surface drainage systems

Surface drainage of areas with high groundwater levels in house and summer cottage areas is conventionally divided into two groups:

Linear. It is constructed by digging trenches on the soil surface around the perimeter of the site and serves to remove moisture from rain and snow. Operates smoothly only on flat surfaces without sudden changes in relief. To do this, dig trenches up to 30 cm deep and fill the walls with fine gravel. The disadvantage of this system is that it looks quite unaesthetic and requires constant cleaning of leaves and small debris.

Elements of point and linear drainage

Spot. The simplest type of drainage is when catch basins are installed in places where water flows abundantly - under roof gutters, small ravines.

Installation of such systems does not require special knowledge or design calculations, and occurs “by eye.”

Deep drainage system

If the site is built on clay soil, with a sharp change in relief, or in an area with abundant groundwater, deep drainage is necessary. It is quite difficult to install. To develop a system design, you must contact a special bureau that provides geological soil exploration services. Its specialists will accurately determine the level at which abundant aquifers occur and will help to competently cope with this problem.

Drainage project development

All deep systems are built on the same principle. The site drainage project is developed in such a way that all secondary moisture collection pipes are connected to the central main. It, in turn, ends in the main receiving reservoir or is brought to the surface into a drainage ravine.

An example of how deep drainage works in the video:

In this case, the water inlet should be located at the lowest point of the system. A very important point in the project should be the level and angle of the drainage pipes. To avoid silting or clogging, competent specialists will always suggest that the customer install inspection wells at each turn of the system. If necessary or after several years, the wells are opened and the pipes are cleared of debris under high pressure water pressure.

The water intake is always located below the freezing level of the soil. Typically this mark varies between 1-1.5 m.

Additional Information! For installation of a drainage system, perforated pipes are always selected. With their surface they absorb excess moisture from the soil and remove it from the site. A big mistake is that exactly the same pipes are used to drain water from under roof gutters. On the contrary, abundant moisture from precipitation should be removed into central sewer in a separate way and do not fall back into the ground through the perforated outlet. Otherwise, it will fall back into the ground and gradually begin to destroy the foundation of the building.

Installation stages

Once a detailed plan has been drawn up and all related factors have been taken into account, you can begin arranging drainage. Conventionally, it can be divided into the following stages:

Marking the territory. The future project is marked over the entire surface of the site using pegs and rope.

Marking and laying drainage system pipes

Digging trenches. Ditches are dug to a depth of about 70 cm + 20 cm to compact the bottom. The width of the ditch varies within the width of the corrugation + 40 cm for freedom of placement.

Sealing of grooves. The bottom of the trench is compacted and covered with a 10 cm layer of sand. A layer of fine crushed stone is poured on top.

Pipe laying. For deep drainage, it is best to use plastic pipes with perforations. IN Lately Pipes wrapped in a special filter fabric have become popular. It is needed to prevent clogging of the system with sand. At turns, in places where inspection wells are installed, holes are made in the pipes for easy flushing of the line. During laying work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of inclination of the pipes with a building level.

Backfilling of the filter layer. To prevent premature siltation, the laid pipes are covered with a new layer of crushed stone. Place a decorative layer of soil on top and level it well.

Ready-made drainage with an intermediate well

Construction of a water intake well. At the lowest point of the site, a main container is installed into which collected water from the central line will accumulate. If necessary, a pump is installed near the well to pump out water.

Collected water can be used for watering flower beds and other plantings during the dry season.

Artificial pond drainage

Some landscape designers propose replacing the main water intake well with an artificial reservoir, thus decorating the site. The main disadvantage of this beautiful design solution is the risk of waterlogging of the man-made lake.

In this case, you should definitely install an additional pond drainage system separately. It is better to lay out the bottom with a layer of small stone and sand and compact it well. If the owner of the estate has expressed a desire to cover the surface of the reservoir with film, it is necessary to equip an additional well (sluker). It is dug at a distance of about a meter from the pond and connected to it with a pipe along the surface. If the main reservoir is overfilled, excess moisture will flow into the additional reservoir. Water from the cleaning well is pumped out as necessary.

Decorating a drainage system for a lake

Also, do not neglect simple and in effective ways drainage of the territory. Trees or shrubs planted along the banks will naturally evaporate excess water through their leaves.

Drainage features if the area is sloped

Drainage on a sloped area is carried out according to the standard scheme. The only difference will be that all auxiliary pipes are installed in a herringbone system in relation to the central main. It is imperative to ensure that the pipes are sloped correctly. The water intake well, in this case, is installed in the lowest place of the site.

Price

If you have certain knowledge and experience, you can drain the site yourself. But only a well-planned drain will work correctly, draining the area in a timely and efficient manner. Only experienced specialists can eliminate many errors, correctly calculate angles of inclination and choose the optimal project in terms of material consumption. It is worth noting that drawing up a competent plan will help to avoid additional redevelopment in the future, which will significantly reduce the material costs of the owner of a personal plot.

It is best when the drainage is designed together with the house

Price finished project drainage system with installation depends on the size of the territory, the desired number of inspection wells, and the complexity of the terrain. The cost of installing a turnkey drainage system starts from 1,200 rubles per linear meter. Glubinogo - from 2700 rubles per linear meter.

As practice shows, it is most advisable to arrange deep and surface drainage at the same time. In this case, both systems will work simultaneously and with greater efficiency. Timely cleaning and proper care monitoring inspection wells and wells will significantly extend the life of the system and the integrity of the foundations of buildings.

It is definitely worth considering that the soil in the trench area will shrink significantly in the first season. Therefore, it is not worth decorating it with permanent plantings right away. It is better to survive at least one flood season and re-level the terrain with an additional layer of earth.

To significantly reduce installation costs, drainage pipes in a dacha can be replaced with a bunch of dry branches or a structure made of PET containers.

It’s clear what site drainage is and how it works in the video:

As a result, with a high level of groundwater on the site, the arrangement of a drainage system is not a luxury, but an urgent necessity. The cost of arrangement is low and in any case will pay for itself within a couple of seasons.