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Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, limitations and installation tips

When does it make sense to install a plasterboard sheet on a frame in general, and on a wooden frame in particular? In what cases is it not advisable to use wooden sheathing? How and from what to properly assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to cover the frame and putty the gypsum board? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it's worth messing with drywall at all or whether it's better to use plaster the old fashioned way.

Here are the arguments in favor of gypsum boards:

High finishing speed due to large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
Possibility with minimal costs eliminate significant unevenness in the base. Let's say, if the height difference between adjacent elements of a slab floor is 8-10 centimeters (yes, yes, this also happens), leveling the ceiling with plaster is very expensive and unsafe: the fall of peeling plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for gypsum boards on the sheathing, the condition of the surface underneath does not matter at all - as long as there is something to attach the frame to;

The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density to it using any wallpaper glue; tiles also adhere perfectly to cement tile adhesive or homemade cement-based mortar.

Curious: to stick the tiles onto the drywall above the bathtub, I used a spot-applied silicone sealant. It was also used to seal the seams between the tiles and to connect the apron to the bathtub. All seams maintain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; The tile holds more than securely.

How does drywall compare to plaster?

Mechanical strength. Let me clarify: according to this parameter, gypsum sheet material second only to cement plaster. Using gypsum board to decorate walls in a gym or workshop is a dubious idea;
Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture resistant drywall It tolerates only high air humidity well. If you immerse a gypsum core in water, it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use gypsum board without protection with a waterproof finishing finish for the construction of shower walls;
Occupied usable area rooms. Walls with minor irregularities in a small room it is better to level thin layer plaster: even when glued directly to the wall, without lathing, a sheet of plasterboard, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move towards the center of the room by 60 - 80 mm.

Frame vs glue

When is it worth installing drywall on a frame, and when is it better to glue it directly to the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the differences, blockages and curvilinearity of the base exceed 40 - 50 millimeters, a frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: it will again save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fastening the gypsum board along the sheathing:

Installation plasterboard partition. No comments seem to be required here: without a frame, its casing simply has nothing to attach to;
Laying communications behind the wall cladding - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than building a permanent wall.

In some cases (for example, if we're talking about about a panel partition inside an apartment) grooves of significant width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree vs profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has only one advantage - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for bars and profiles for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, as opposed to galvanized steel, hygroscopic, and is also capable change yours linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. WITH practical side this means that in a damp room, the wooden sheathing can warp and bend the wall cladding, or even lead to cracks appearing at its seams.

Finally, a tree susceptible to biological influences: It rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanizing.

Drywall wood frame can be used only in dry rooms. For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
Before assembly, the elements of the sheathing must be be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, a simple way to bring wood closer to a galvanized profile in terms of performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and ability to deform during humidity fluctuations, the block is sufficiently soak in drying oil: its constituent oils fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of wood, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

It is better to apply drying oil heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

It’s easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with drying oil using a brush, but to dip it in a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
Drying oil dries for several days and has a strong, characteristic odor. To dry the bar, it is better to select a separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the wood frame for drywall made of?

It’s not for nothing that I cited a 50x50 millimeter block as an example of the price of lathing: it is the most popular material for assembling frames of partitions and lathing (ceiling and wall).

If there are special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from 50x100 timber; in this case, the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how maximum resistance to lateral load is achieved.

Finally, when installing wall sheathing, cut and unedged board arbitrary width. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails into wooden choppers.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the sheathing on hangers, yes.

Wood must not have any defects from the following list:

Rot and woodworm damage;
Cross-layer (significant deviation of the direction of wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
Falling out knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the block.

The instructions are due to the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%: when drying, the block often warps.

Frame installation rules

Partition

Assembling the partition frame begins with marking the attachment lines for the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and floor, as well as the outer posts on the adjacent walls. To ensure that the lines lie strictly in one plane, use a plumb line.

Then strapping bars and end posts are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. A damper tape is laid under them, eliminating the transmission of acoustic vibrations to the permanent structures of the building and thereby promoting sound insulation. Anchor bolts or regular dowel screws can be used to attach the trim and racks to the walls.

The next stage is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

If possible, the edges of adjacent sheets should be attached to a common frame or sheathing element. In this case, the likelihood of cracks appearing at the seams is minimal.

The connections of the racks with the strapping do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the partition sheathing and drywall, so any method of fastening the racks is acceptable:

Nails or self-tapping screws that are driven in or turned at an angle to the post;
An insert made from a piece of timber, which is attached to the harness, after which the stand is attracted to it;

Galvanized perforated plates;
Furniture corners;
Inserting half-wood posts with glue. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with drying oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive properties of the glue.

To glue dry wood, you can use either specialized wood glue or regular PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; Drying the glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden partition frame?

In the lower trim, a gap is made for the width of the door with the frame;
The door leaf is wedged into the frame using wooden wedges. The goal is to leave gaps after installation that do not allow the door to rub over the jambs;
A stand adjacent to the frame is mounted at one of the edges of the doorway;
On outer surface boxes are striped polyurethane foam, after which it is pulled with self-tapping screws to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they go deep into the box, but do not go right through it;
On the second side of the opening, a second rack is mounted in the same way;
The racks are connected at the top by a jumper;
All connections of racks with frames are reinforced with galvanized plates on self-tapping screws.

A skylight window (for example, in a bathroom wall) is installed in a similar way, with the exception that its frame rests on a horizontal jumper between the posts.

Lathing on hangers

How to assemble it yourself wooden sheathing for covering a wall with significant unevenness with plasterboard?

The assembly of the frame in this case also begins with attaching the lower and top harness. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of attaching the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
Then the outer racks are attached to the adjacent walls through a damper span;
On the main wall, strictly vertically, along a plumb line, the positions of the intermediate posts are marked (let me remind you, in increments of 40 or 60 cm from center to center of the block);
Direct hangers are attached with dowel-screws along each rack at 80 cm intervals;
The racks are aligned according to the markings, after which the suspension ears are screwed to them with 25 mm long wood screws. The free part of the ears is bent towards the wall. The frame is ready for covering.

Lathing on spacers

If the wall has a relatively slight curvilinearity, the sheathing can be attached to it without hangers, using spacers made from scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a block, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be cut into narrow planks or a block of ordinary hand-made circular saw with guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The sheathing is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden choppers. Bottom harness as such is absent; instead, short bars are drawn into the gap between the sheathing posts to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple single-level flow is mounted in the same way as the sheathing on direct suspensions - adjusted for the location in horizontal plane. To create the frame of curvilinear elements of a multi-level flow, thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used; When sheathing, the gypsum board is pulled to its end with self-tapping screws.

Sheathing

How to install drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed with 9.5 mm thick ceiling plasterboard. In dry rooms, regular plasterboard (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture-resistant (blue).

Let me remind you once again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be sequentially impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

To fasten the sheet, wood screws 32 mm long are used. The length of the screws exceeds that used when mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; The average fastener consumption is 100 screws per sheet measuring 2500x1200.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional block is placed under the seam perpendicular to the posts. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to common element frame.

Where the wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a block under the transverse seam. In its absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers. The gypsum board of the first layer is secured with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of gypsum board is installed with ligation of horizontal and vertical seams; For fastening, wood screws 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut gypsum board to the required size?

Curvilinear parts are cut out with a jigsaw and a wood saw. It cuts plasterboard very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for bearings in cooling systems of computers and laptops, so during repairs they must be kept turned off and covered with polyethylene;

Along straight lines, the plasterboard is cut with a sharp knife along a ruler to a quarter of the thickness, after which it is broken on the edge of a table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are unstitched: the edges are sharply chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees to half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A wall or partition covered with plasterboard is not yet ready for finishing: the heads of the screws and the seams between the sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used to reinforce seams serpyanka— self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. You have to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small but quite noticeable shrinkage when drying.

External corners are reinforced:

Galvanized perforated corner profile;
Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is sunk into the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner glued with silicone sealant after puttying and painting to protect the corners.

The photo shows a corner of the partition protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty should I use to level the surface?

Most common in Russia gypsum putty production German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common one much better. ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not form lumps when mixing.

How to prepare putty correctly?

Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into a wide bowl (I use a plastic paint bucket);
The mixture is poured into water, distributed as evenly as possible over its surface;
After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a mixer attachment for a drill.

How and with what to properly putty seams, corners and screw heads?

The caps are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide, crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the recess with putty, the second (“scraping”) removes its excess;
The seams are also filled with cross-shaped movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracks. In the second pass, the seam, together with the serpyanka reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of a spatula 30 - 35 cm wide;

For leveling external and internal corners It is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the heads of the gypsum board fasteners, they are often puttied over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick completely masks the seams and does not allow the base to show through the paint.

Next stage - grinding. GKL is sanded with grids No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to sand in bright, oblique lighting, which will highlight the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive oscillating sander for sanding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate sanding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the condition of the surface.

The smooth surface of the gypsum board is dust-free (I clean it of dust with a regular broom) and primed with penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will stick the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and the final coating - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will show through any number of layers of paint due to the moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, Additional information The video in this article will bring you to your attention. Feel free to share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

September 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. For creating frame base under the gypsum plasterboard you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often in repair work ah use metal carcass, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than using wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for plasterboard is often used. Wood is environmentally friendly pure material and this is another reason why many prefer it as a basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for a wooden structure in a house to last a long time, the wood must be properly prepared. This material is very susceptible to biological corrosion, climate impacts and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from coniferous species.
Before starting, chemical treatment is usually carried out. For this wooden slats treat the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence the tree deteriorates very quickly;
the risk of damage to the tree by wood insects that use wood as food;
biological decay;
damage to beams by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country house.

Today the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But sodium fluoride is considered the best. It penetrates very deeply into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It is worth noting that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is great advantage for treatment with this substance wooden beams and slats at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium fluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood processing.
The use of the following types of oil antiseptics in residential premises is strictly prohibited:

coal;
creosote;
anthracene oils;
shale.

When treating wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before installing wooden planks, the slats should be in the room where they will be attached for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of high-quality lumber, which must meet fire safety and humidity requirements.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a fire retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Create a drawing

Before you start installation wooden elements design, a drawing should be drawn.
It is created as follows:

measure the length of the room;
measure the height of the room;
we multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
then we measure the perimeter of the windows in the same way, doorways and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can assess the range of work to be done and decide on the amount of materials. with him you will do correct frame, and you don’t have to bend the elements and tamp them down so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for work

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

screwdriver;
hammer;
construction knife;
concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

wood hacksaw;
plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
building level;
screwdriver, crowbar;
brackets, dowels and screws.

With this toolkit at hand, making a wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure under drywall involves the following processes:

tracing (marking) of the wall. We apply all the elements of the drawing to the wall;
We measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it by the width of the gypsum board. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. Mark a point on the floor;
connecting these two points, you get the first line;
then we repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the gypsum board sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from the given point.

then we begin to install the frame. We fasten the beams along the lines. Bend wooden beams you shouldn’t, otherwise they can simply be broken. You can fasten it with both self-tapping screws and tenons (in wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
We attach solid beams along the walls and ceiling. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer be possible. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
Along the floor, the beams are allowed to diverge in both directions from the doorway;
when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
Next we install the vertical slats. We install the slats strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is a little uneven. But don't overdo it, or it will break.

Finished frame

Note! In order to do wooden structure, you can use bars and slats of different sections. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of cladding and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

It is necessary to install two risers on the sides of the opening. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm larger than the width of the door itself door frame;
we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
We connect the jumper to the ceiling rail using two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for attaching drywall sheets in the future;
Next we attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
in cases where the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the plasterboard sheet, we make a horizontal jumper to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the lintel above the floodplain, you need to attach a plasterboard sheet and nail the lintel at its edge so that it extends to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the beams, you should use metal corners and pads that are designed to collect rafter systems. This way you will prevent mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the outside.
The finished structure and each of its parts should be checked during installation. building level. The racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers must go horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum possible number of whole sheets of drywall fits on the wall. As a result, you will not only save time, but also reduce material consumption.
Wooden sheathing for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will succeed in even the most complex elements.

Today any design ideas can be brought to life using such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: it is used to build interior partitions, trim window slopes, they sheathe the walls inside and out, trim the ceiling, interior is also popular decorative finishing premises. There are several ways to cover walls with plasterboard: frameless joints and the use of a supporting frame. Most often for wooden surfaces the second method is used, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

To ensure that covering walls with plasterboard does not cause problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Features of wooden frame:

First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden blocks, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be carried out. Remember that humidity has a detrimental effect on a frame made of wooden slats.
Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with fire safety standards.
Before work, the wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but more often it is recommended to use sodium fluoride.

We install drywall on wooden slats: advantages of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as a base for plasterboard structures, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to its metal counterpart!

Advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

Availability of material and its low cost.
High speed of construction.
Environmental friendliness.
Easy to use.

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for several days inside the room where the installation will be carried out to acclimatize.

Finishing walls in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work

In any construction business you cannot do without special tools. To ensure the job goes smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need when working with drywall is listed below.

Tools:

Drill or screwdriver;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Roulette;
Marker or crayon.

Materials:

Wooden slats and bars;
Self-tapping screws;
Metal corners.

Any Finishing work begin, first of all, with cleaning work surfaces.

The first thing you need to do is remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in short, any objects that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe the inside of a wooden house with plasterboard: making a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be taken into account that in the places where the plasterboard sheets join each other, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
It is better to fasten the slats directly to the wooden wall and to each other. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.

The assembly of the frame itself should begin with fastening solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After this, you can begin installing the slats, which will be located vertically. Next, we attach additional horizontal short slats between the vertical beams. The parts of the frame can be fastened together with construction corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly level!

After this, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars are placed in the right places required thickness. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin attaching sheets of drywall to the resulting slats and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
If necessary, use an intermediate profile.

When leveling the walls, monitor the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or partition made of plasterboard in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the connections between the sheets of drywall and the holes from the screw heads should be processed.

For this we need:

Putty knife;
Special putty;
Reinforced tape or mesh;
Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.

You need to start work by preparing the putty mixture. We recommend using a special putty to seal the seams. Also choose a spatula that is convenient for work. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

Apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape the right size and glue it onto the finished seam. Process the remaining seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from self-tapping screws on drywall, you need to apply a layer of putty to the desired place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can, if you wish, prepare the wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.

How to cover walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technology when covering with plasterboard wooden walls, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, when installing drywall in timber house using a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior finishing of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in reliability load-bearing structure made from metal profiles.

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are a fairly complex composite material. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main ones are high Fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using plasterboard, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This sets it apart from other construction projects.

Plasterboard sheets are manufactured in three types:

standard;
fire resistant;
moisture resistant.

Kinds plasterboard sheets

GCR is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, wall finishing and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers(For example, KNAUF) established in last years production of special plasterboard, ideal for finishing floors. Due to the fact that gypsum plasterboard does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally friendly) and is characterized by an acidity level approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is capable of creating an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Nowadays, plasterboard sheets are almost indispensable for performing various types repair work. They are made from them simple designs, and luxurious multi-level buildings. Due to this, you can create the most modern, bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for installing plasterboard sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall using an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Drywall is subsequently attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that installation of gypsum boards is allowed only on a flat wall. But using the frame method, drywall can be attached to surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless method of installing gypsum boards

Frame technology for installing gypsum boards is a minimum construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall to lay electrical wiring and other household communications; all systems are placed in free space between the skeleton of the structure and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of plasterboard sheets on the wall can be easily built with your own hands. Home craftsman with minimal experience carrying out repair activities, a skeleton for the gypsum board will be erected in a matter of hours. And then he will also quickly attach drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is a technique that is easier to implement. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from lightweight and easy-to-install wooden products (slats, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with your own hands.

It is recommended to build the frame for attaching gypsum boards to the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12–18%, and also undergo special fire retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or slats. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:

rodents (the smell of antiseptic is good at repelling mice and other living creatures that can damage the structure);
mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
wood-boring insects;
biological natural decay.

You can do antiseptic protection of wood yourself. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to stir the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then treat all elements of the future frame for drywall with the resulting composition.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluoride antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during use. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. An almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium fluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use you should add a little soda ash (soda ash).

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compositions containing the following components:

anthracene oils;
coal;
creosote;
slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Advice from the pros! Before arranging the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to give wooden products rest in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The structure we are interested in is made from wooden blocks or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools– hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, level. Nails and mounting dowels are used as fastening elements.

Important point! GCR is mounted on frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also advisable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. Implementation adhesive technology installation of gypsum boards with your own hands in such high rooms recognized by professionals as inappropriate.

Installation of gypsum boards on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

Analyze the condition of the wall surface. Fill any irregularities found with putty (plaster), and clean areas with peeling old coating.
Mark the wall. Carry out this operation with strict adherence to levels and angles (use measuring tools).
The horizontal beam is installed first. It should be fixed to floor base anchors.
Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed beam. They should be approximately 1 cm from the edge of the sheathing. The distance between individual vertical elements– 60 cm.
Check with a level that the slats are positioned correctly.
Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of gypsum boards, the frame should be leveled. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position horizontal beam can be set by placing pieces of wood or scraps of wood chip products under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fasten all its parts. That's the whole technology for assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to start installing gypsum boards on your hand-made skeleton.

Installation of plasterboard sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GKL are fastened with self-tapping screws on wood. The installation step for hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws no longer than 3.5 cm.

Installing plasterboard sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture-resistant sheets, it is better to secure them to the frame with serrated galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the uncoated edge of the gypsum board (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work is that when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the gypsum boards. Using them, you can subsequently easily fill in the gaps between the products (first prime them and then treat them with putty).

Let us finally add that fasteners must be installed as carefully as possible. Make sure that the heads of nails or screws do not pierce front side GKL. Such fasteners hold sheets very poorly. Over time, plasterboard products will begin to move and become loose, which, quite possibly, will lead to the destruction of the entire structure.