The floor in the house is important element, providing high-quality heat and waterproofing interior spaces. Structures of this type can be distinguished by their reliability and structure, since several types of materials are used in their construction. Before you start building these surfaces, you should find out what the floors in a private house should be like. This will allow you to select best option allowing to obtain a durable and strong surface.

Device Features

Country houses They are compact and practical. At the same time, everything technical requirements the finishing and interior design of the building are fundamentally different from apartment buildings.

Floors in a private home must meet several basic criteria:

• Strength. The base should easily bear loads without losing its original properties. This also applies to the top decorative layer, which should not wear out while maintaining the design.
• Thermal insulation. The structure and thickness of the floor “pie” is selected in such a way that the base does not allow cold to pass through and also retains heat inside the room.
• Soundproofing. This feature is important for houses with a large number of inhabitants. High-quality sound insulation will allow you to create comfortable conditions living inside the building.
• Moisture resistance. Almost all residential buildings have a bathtub where the humidity level is very high. At the same time, the floor material must not only withstand such conditions, but also maintain a presentable appearance in them.

Kinds

A private house differs from multi-apartment buildings in that here you can adapt the subfloor to suit your needs. Today, in these places there are several types of floor coverings:

• Wooden systems on joists on the ground. These coverings are especially popular among many owners of small residential houses. Main structural element Such a system consists of logs that are located directly on the ground. Using this approach, you can significantly speed up the floor construction process. But it should be noted that the wood itself does not come into contact with the soil, since a substrate of sand and crushed stone is placed under it. For waterproofing, this layer is covered with roofing felt, on which the logs are placed. This kind of “pie” provides good thermal insulation and durability, but does not always allow for optimal heat retention.

• Wooden floor on supports. Also applicable here wooden joists, onto which a finishing board is nailed on top. But they are no longer installed on the ground itself, but on special posts that act as supports. They are made from brick, concrete and other durable materials. They are placed around the entire perimeter of the room so that wood can be attached to them. A waterproofing gasket is placed between the wood and the log to prevent rapid rotting of the wood.

• Monolithic. Floors of this type are a type of cement screed located on a supporting surface. Some of them can be mounted already on a concrete slab, which is used as a foundation. But this type is quite rare and only on stable soils. Monolithic structures are cold and therefore require additional insulation.

• Surfaces based on dry screed. This type of flooring has appeared recently and is beginning to gain popularity. The structure of this base consists of a well-compacted substrate, which acts as both insulation and waterproofing, and a top decorative layer. The advantage of such floor coverings is that their construction does not require much time.

Floors in a private house differ in structure and materials used.

But in all these designs several main components can be distinguished:

• Litter. The lowest layer, the purpose of which is to perceive and evenly distribute the load.
• Middle rough layer. This element is not always present in floor coverings. But quality foundations always use a structure with this component. The main task is to perceive negative factors in order to reduce their impact on the upper decorative bases.
• Insulation. These elements are found in almost all types of floors. Both hydro and thermal insulation are used here, which can extend the service life of the product, as well as provide comfortable conditions inside the house.
• Decorative layer. Here they apply various substances, which differ in design and structure. With their help, they not only decorate the floor, but also additionally insulate it.

Materials

Arrangement of floors in a private home involves the use of substances that perfectly maintain the microclimate inside the house.

For the construction of such structures, several groups of materials are used:

• Lumber. This group of substances is used during the construction of floors based on logs. The most popular products are wooden blocks, boards of various thicknesses, sawdust (thermal insulator). This group includes plywood, OSB and other boards based on wood processing products.
• Insulating materials. This group is also very broad and includes substances for hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation. Products of this type includes rolled materials (film, roofing felt, all types of mineral wool), as well as bulk structures (expanded clay, sand, crushed stone, etc.). Many of these substances do not form a separate layer. They are intended to cover and insulate other elements of the system.
• Decorative finishing. Such coatings also come in several types. The most common are solid wood boards, ceramic tile, laminate, parquet, etc.

All of them allow you to create universal floor coverings with various technical and decorative properties. Some of them can only be used under certain conditions.

Concrete floors, which can withstand changes in temperature and humidity, are suitable for organizing underfloor heating.

How to do it yourself?

Flooring in a private house is not so difficult task. The only important thing here is to choose the right type flooring, which will suit your requirements. This is much easier to do during the construction phase of the building. During this period, the floor is installed from scratch, which eliminates the dismantling and replacement of the old coating. If repairs are being made, then the algorithm for arranging the floor base may change depending on the structure of the material used before.

Each type of flooring is unique technical characteristics. Therefore, when building a private house, many people wonder which floor is best to form inside it.

To choose the best option, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each system:

• Single wood floors. Designs of this type are budget-friendly and are used quite often. In the structure of the floor, only beams are used, on top of which a finishing board or other material is immediately attached. To protect the wood, it is necessary to use several layers of heat and moisture insulation during the arrangement. If you do not follow the technology, the base will quickly dry out and form cracks. This, in turn, will lead to drafts and large heat loss. To correct all the shortcomings, it will be necessary to completely redo the entire structure.

• Double floors. This structure allows you to increase the service life and strength of the base. Double coatings retain heat much better, although insulation is also used here. But the construction of this floor will be much more expensive than the previous one.
• Monolithic foundations. Concrete floors are highly durable, which is their main advantage. They are able to withstand almost any load, and are also suitable for finishing with all decorative materials. On a cement base, you can also build floors based on logs, which will be durable and warm. The disadvantage of monolithic floors is their heavy weight, which does not always allow building them on the second floor if the walls are not designed for such loads.

Arrangement of any type of floor involves the selection of materials and tools that will allow you to obtain a reliable and durable structure.

To solve such problems you will need the following materials:

• Sprinkles. This includes classic crushed stone and sand. They are used to level the ground. Not used when installing floors on the second floor.
• Material for forming a rough base. There are also several options here. If you have chosen a wooden floor, then you should purchase high-quality wooden blocks that will withstand the load. You will also need special fasteners to secure the wood. In some cases, you will need a small block with a cross section of 5*5 cm, which is nailed to the bottom of the joist. They are then attached rough foundation. A similar approach is found when constructing a floor on the second floor.
• Thermal insulation materials. Often, mineral wool or expanded clay is used here, which are covered with special films. This is necessary so that moisture does not get into the structure of the heat insulator, which can quickly destroy it. Please note that the installation sequence must be followed. If you change some of the layers, this will lead to the accumulation of moisture inside its structure.

Installation of flooring in a country house can be carried out different ways. It all depends on the type of base chosen.

The algorithm for arranging a wooden floor on the first floor consists of the following sequential steps:

• Leveling the ground. In this case, the surface is covered with sand and compacted. Crushed stone is placed on top of it, which is also compacted and compacted. If the logs will be located on concrete pillars, then the soil is only leveled with sand. In this case, supports are constructed along the entire perimeter at a distance of 2-3 m, depending on the thickness of the board.
• Laying lags. The bars rest either on pillars or on crushed stone cushion. Roofing felt or other waterproofing material must be placed between them. Some experts recommend covering the entire area of ​​the room with film.
• Arrangement of thermal insulation. A waterproofing film is placed between the joists, on top of which mineral wool slabs are placed. Then the whole thing is covered with a vapor barrier.

The formation of a wooden floor on the second floor is carried out using almost the same algorithm, only in order to be able to lay slabs of mineral wool, you need to nail wooden blocks to the bottom of the joists.

After this, boards are laid on them, acting as a kind of base. Then the formation of a heat-insulating layer from a certain substance is also performed.

Particular attention should be paid to concrete floors, which are formed mainly on the ground floor. If you want to form a concrete floor on the second tier, then you need to use materials that can withstand such a load for the construction of walls.

The algorithm for installing a concrete floor is quite simple and consists of the following steps:

• Leveling and preparing the base. Here the soil is also compacted and covered with a sand-crushed stone cushion.
• Strengthening. To prevent concrete from cracking and withstand loads, it is reinforced. To do this, use reinforcement, which is tied in the form of a mesh. If there is supposed to be a hole in the floor into the cellar, it is important to strengthen it as well in order to obtain a solid structure.
• Filling. When the base is ready, a thick layer of concrete mixture is poured onto it. Its thickness can be from 5 to 20 cm, depending on the structure of the soil. To obtain flat surface, the concrete is carefully compacted using special machines.

Finishing

The design of any floor involves decorative finishing.

This can be done using several types of materials:

• Board installation. This is the main arrangement option wooden floors. Before laying it, the wood should be treated with special compounds. They will protect it from premature rotting and damage by microorganisms. When installing a board, it is important to carefully adjust its dimensions in order to obtain joints without gaps.
• Laying laminate or parquet. They can be installed only on perfectly level foundations. If the floor is formed from logs, then you need to level it with plywood, boards or other similar materials. After this, a substrate is laid on which the lamellas are joined together. When old floors are used for installation, it is important to check their condition. If necessary, it is advisable to cover the damaged areas so that the parquet does not sag over time.
• Tile finishing. This option is suitable for bathrooms where there is high humidity. Installation is carried out on cement mortars, which adhere well to the tiles. The material is only suitable for concrete foundations.
• Use of rolled products. This includes linoleum and all similar materials. They allow you to get a beautiful surface, but at the same time require a durable substrate. They can be used for any reason.

The process of constructing a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is related to the construction of the floor structure. Its type is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. About what kind of floors there are wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the ground floor in a wooden house, when there is an unheated basement underneath, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor design installed on earthen foundation(no underground). The installation of this type of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. Another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand is poured on top of it. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and rest against special recesses in the walls of the house. On top there is a single plank flooring, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. Warm floors with a cold underground are recommended in areas where there is high level groundwater. This design is arranged as follows:

• cleaned sand in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and compacted;
• install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can pour concrete mortar into vertically buried pipes with metal frame required height;
• a double layer of waterproofing material and wooden dies 3 cm thick are laid on top of the supports;
• load-bearing beams are laid.

To install thermal insulation, it is necessary to install a subfloor laid on slats nailed to the ends of the joists. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After this, a plank covering is laid over the beams.

3. The installation of a cold floor with a warm subfloor is recommended where the soil has low level soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should a wooden house be like?

The floor in a wooden house should be strong, durable, warm and smooth, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on installing a floor in a wooden house independently, take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the building’s structures and individual characteristics operation of the house. First we need to consider different variants floors that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons and, taking into account operating conditions, choose the appropriate option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the flooring material, it must meet sanitary, hygienic, structural, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Types of floors

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of installing a “warm floor system” can also be implemented.

Now on construction market there are several varieties of " heated floors" They differ in the type of coolant and operating efficiency. We'll tell you in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain a level base in a relatively short time is to pour a concrete screed. While it may take a month for the screed to dry completely, installing a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

1. A significant reduction in the cost of the finishing coating device.
2. After the screed has dried, a flat base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
3. With an initially high-quality screed, additional leveling before the final stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
4. The screed can be installed independently, without the involvement of specialists.

You will learn how to install a concrete floor in a private house yourself in two main options - on the ground and on the floors.

Disadvantages include heavy weight monolithic design floor and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. That's why necessary calculations foundations are carried out at the design stage of the house. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, the screed may crack, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a heated floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

1. Environmentally friendly material with a rich natural pattern.
2. Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not emit environment harmful toxins.
3. An aesthetic appearance and an organic combination of wood with the rest of the surfaces of the building, while the concrete floor will not look natural.
4. When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a finished wooden base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
5. Wood is very durable and, depending on the species, you can choose a material with certain performance properties and texture.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the house.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. To carry out routine repairs of its fragment, it is not necessary to dismantle the entire flooring; a separate fragment can be replaced. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Among the disadvantages of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material and the labor involved in its installation are noted. In addition, it can be quite difficult to obtain a perfectly level base.

Which is better - concrete or wood?

At the design stage of a private house, you must immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference is between these floors.

Price

To fill a screed 5 cm thick, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles/bag) and 1.5 (50 rubles/bag) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 screeds will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB boards(600 rub./m2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles/m2.

Communications

In modern houses, the heating, water supply and sewerage systems are laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly sawed and access to communications can be gained. WITH concrete floors more difficult - to remove the screed you will have to use a professional tool, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Deadlines

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% of its strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

Wooden floors can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the wooden floor is not installed professional craftsman, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creaking sound when walking on the floor. Concrete screed does not have this drawback. Moreover, when work is performed by hired workers, the result and quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1 m 2 OSB sheet with a thickness of 18 mm is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m2 of wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. And 1 m 2 ties with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of constructing floors on pillars

When constructing such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

1. Prepare the base. To do this, marking and excavation of soil is carried out plant layer. The resulting depression is filled with crushed stone and sand on top, which is then compacted.
2. Then the brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the finished floor and the structure below it.
3. It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the support column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
4. It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future room, and then within the specified boundaries.
5. I lay two layers of roofing material on the upper plane of each column to ensure waterproofing of the structure.
6. Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs made of logs or timber are installed on them. The width of the step of their location relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
7. Slag backfill, the height of which does not reach the log by 5 cm, is used to prevent the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. Remaining free space provides ventilation of the structure.

Laying the floor on top installed logs is done using boards, which begin to be laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

The boards are attached to the joists using long nails driven at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on poles, as described above. Only on top of the supports are beams placed, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue-and-groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along beams embedded in the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams serve as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the sheathing:

1. The sheathing is made of timber with a square section of 5-6 cm.
2. The pitch of the timber in the sheathing depends on the thickness of the floor board. The thinner the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
3. During the installation of the sheathing, it is important to control its horizontal position so that the end result is an even plank covering.
4. Fastening the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
5. If it is not planned to lay additional flooring on top decorative covering– laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is finished.
6. After the single decking is installed, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then you can use an unedged board to construct it.

When making a single floor, no serious professional skills or significant time and financial costs are required. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

TO optimal solution When arranging a floor in a wooden house, a two-layer structure is used, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

1. The subfloor is assembled from unedged boards up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, preference should be given to wood coniferous species– it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and rotting.
2. The boards are laid close to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
3. In addition to insulation, it is necessary to steam and waterproof the structure to extend its service life.
4. The finished floor boards are laid as for other types of structures, leaving a gap of 1.5 cm between them with the subfloor.

A clean floor can serve a function finishing coating or serve as a basis for laying decorative flooring, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A subfloor when installing plank flooring is necessary for several reasons:

1. To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence high-quality ventilation floor.
2. It serves as a solid base for laying insulation and finishing flooring.
3. Makes the frame of the building more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of the rough structure, check the following:

1. The wood chosen as the material for the construction of the subfloor must have an optimal level of humidity - this will eliminate possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent use.
2. The boards should not have obvious defects.
3. If an inexpensive board can be used for the subfloor, then for the finished floor it is purchased with a reserve, so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Preparation

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on the floors. In any case, it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures:

1. The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special grilles.
2. All wooden parts treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
3. Taking into account the size of the room in which the floor will be installed, calculate required amount material.
4. Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure to prevent the formation of a slope.
5. Timber and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Laying the subfloor

To ensure that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is smooth and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to the laying of the subfloor and, first of all, to the joists.

The logs should be suspended on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - insulation will be laid in the gap formed. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid sagging and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment, such as a stove or fireplace, will subsequently be installed, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in 30 cm increments.

Fastenings in such places are also further reinforced.

At the bottom, beams are nailed across the beams. Between floors, beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

In the gap, an OSB sheet is laid on the beams.

After this, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with a construction stapler. The vapor barrier seam is taped.

The second layer of vapor barrier is laid overlapping, and a ventilation gap. To do this, use a 40 x 100 mm block, screwed to the floor joists. The finishing floor will be installed on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Insulating a wooden floor

Finished floor installation

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue-and-groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying finished floorboards

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving an expansion gap.
	It must be secured with self-tapping screws so that you can later cover the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	The first option uses self-tapping screws that are twice as long as the floorboard.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each joist in the center of the board. Subsequently, the caps can be masked using wood putty.
	Then take the next board and align the tenon with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting them with a mallet through a block.
	Or they press it with a chisel.
	The second fastening option involves screwing self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the tenon. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the screw.
	With this option, the boards fit closer to each other, and the fastening elements are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with prerequisite that the soil must be dry.

Stage 1 – preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

1. Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate the excavation work.
2. To prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully compacted using special devices.
3. A well-compacted sand cushion is placed over the ground. The backfill will be denser if you pour material that exceeds the required volume by 25%, moisten it and compact it thoroughly using a roller or vibrator.
4. An expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

The next step is to perform , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this purpose, roll materials based on bitumen are used. You can use thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid overlapping, extending it onto the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are taped. It is important that the material is homogeneous and without damage.

An alternative method is the coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of pouring the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the subfloor

The subfloor or technological floor serves as the basis for the hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its production, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone of size 50-20 are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 – vapor barrier and insulation

A vapor barrier material in the form of inexpensive membranes made of fiberglass or polyester is laid on top of the subfloor. PVC membranes are a durable material that is not afraid of rotting. Insulation is laid over the vapor barrier - this can increase the energy efficiency of a living space by 20%. The following materials can be used as insulation:

1. Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg/m 3. To prevent it from accumulating cotton wool, it is insulated with polyethylene.
2. Where the floor is subject to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms when compressed and then returns to its original state.
3. When using polystyrene foam, it is covered with polyethylene on all sides to give strength.

Stage 5 – final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative flooring. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, pouring a solution with a coarse filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition (quartz sand) is carried out along the beacons. Begin pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution using the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos cement sheets, GKLV. The technology is simple and fast:

1. Line with plastic film.
2. A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
3. Execute sand backfill 5 cm thick.
4. The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or construction adhesive.
5. Perform puttying and sanding of joints.

Finishing materials

Material for finishing Floors in a wooden house are selected depending on the interior design. If the appearance of the house inside retains the color of natural wood, which on the walls and ceiling is not hidden behind other finishing, then the flooring should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house the best solution the floor will be made of natural wood. It will organically fit into the interior with wood paneling walls Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Natural wood flooring is distinguished by a variety of textures and rich natural patterns.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained by laying parquet made of natural wood, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity - bathroom, shower bath, kitchen, as well as in the hallway practical solution will be laying tiles.
	An alternative material to expensive natural wood is laminate, which is highly durable, wear-resistant and decorative. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive types of wood.

Prices for popular types of block parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house has a special atmosphere home comfort and warmth, so natural materials look natural in its walls.

In most cases, in private housing construction, wooden floors are made, giving preference natural material. Concrete and self-leveling bases. Let's figure out what kind of floors and how best to do them in a private residential building.

Wooden base – practical and comfortable

Wood has been used for flooring for a long time. It has a number of important advantages, among them the following:

• low thermal conductivity ( optimal temperature both summer and winter);
• environmental friendliness ( modern people pay special attention to this characteristic);
• ease of installation (making a wooden floor with your own hands is relatively easy);
• high maintainability and durability (with regular care and minor repairs, the wooden base lasts for centuries).

In a private house, it is recommended to use ash or oak wood for flooring. These tree species are considered the most durable. But their cost is quite high. Therefore, as a compromise, the wooden floor in the house can be made from fir, spruce, larch, cedar, and pine. It is important to choose the right beams and boards - they must be well dried. The maximum permissible moisture content of wood for flooring is 12%.

With a higher value, the board may “lead”, and instead of a smooth base in a private house, you will get a lumpy surface with cracks and gaps. Wooden flooring, which you can make with your own hands in private housing construction, can be two- or single-layer. In the first case, an additional so-called “rough” base is provided. The design of its construction depends on what material will be used as insulation.

If expanded clay or slag is used, it is better to lay a solid base of wood. When choosing mineral wool for insulation, a distance of 40–50 cm is maintained between individual subfloor boards. All elements of the “preliminary” base are protected with a vapor barrier; it is recommended to install thin plywood on top. And only after that lay the material chosen for it.

Regardless of the number of layers and construction method, a wooden floor must be fixed on joists. They are beams that are placed in the walls of a building or installed on a concrete base. It is possible to embed logs into the walls when the room where the flooring needs to be made has small area. There is also a technique for installing wood floors on “floating” support pillars. We'll talk about it later.

Floors on concrete screed - do it yourself

Wooden logs can be mounted directly on concrete slab or a screed. If you need to slightly raise the level of the base (by 15–20 cm), it is better to use the installation scheme on threaded studs. A wooden floor with joists on concrete should always be made in two layers. First you need to build a rough foundation, then the finishing one. This can be done according to the following scheme:

• We mark on the concrete the places where the logs will be installed. Let us note right away that if you want to get a non-creaky and truly reliable coating, it is better not to skimp on lags. They must be massive, made of high-quality wood. The distance between the lags is about 60 cm.
• Every 30–40 cm on the completed markings you need to make points and drill them. And then install studs with fixing elements into the resulting holes. They are necessary to hold the beams, which are also drilled and mounted on studs.
• We bring the beams (by adjusting the clamps on the fasteners) to horizontal (it must be absolutely accurate). We constantly check the quality of work. You'll have to tinker here, but the floor in the house needs to be made perfectly flat.
• We tighten the nuts onto the studs. Sanding machine we cut off the excess parts of the hardware and recess them in the recesses, which should be prepared in advance.

Now you can make a subfloor, insulate it and begin laying the finishing base. Installing the joists directly onto the screed should also not cause any particular difficulties for those who do this work with their own hands. First, markings are made (the distance between the logs is 60 cm). After which the beams are placed on a concrete base using anchors. The logs are allowed to be raised to any height convenient for you.

Further actions are as follows:

• we attach foam-type polyethylene or other insulating material of relatively small thickness to the joists with staples;
• We install strips of mineral wool along the perimeter of the room (along the walls);
• We place medium or small expanded clay on the foamed polyethylene, the layer of which is covered with a vapor barrier film.

Your wooden floor is almost ready. All that remains is to lay plywood on it (take thicker material) or ordinary boards. On top, in addition, you can make a finishing coating - laminated parquet, carpet.

Wooden floors on the ground and on support pillars

It is easy to install a wooden base directly on the ground. Here's what you need to do with your own hands in this case:

• compact the soil in the underground in a private house as thoroughly as possible;
• make a 20–40 cm cushion (gravel, sand, medium crushed stone in approximately equal proportions) and tamp it again;
• put reinforcement cage on a pillow and roofing felt (or other type of rigid waterproofing).

Now you need to build supports for the logs - blocks of concrete or brick, which are fixed to waterproofing layer to the solution. We leave a distance of 60 cm between the blocks, and around them place a layer of insulating material - mineral wool or ordinary polystyrene. Then wooden logs are placed, their fastening is carried out metal corners. Here it is very important to correctly level the beams so that the floor in a private house is “wave-free” (use a regular level, or better yet, a laser level).

It is advisable to lay another insulating layer (for example, mineral wool slabs) between the joists and cover it with a vapor barrier. Then the boards are laid. It is recommended to fix them with small nails; they need to be driven in from the side. In order for the flooring in a private house to be well ventilated, the edge boards must be laid at some distance (10–15 mm) from the walls. Now let's see how to properly make a “floating” log system. It is quite possible to build a floor on support posts with your own hands. To do this, you do not need to have any special construction education.

• In the underground, dig recesses (0.5–0.6 m) for brick columns (the distance between them is 0.7–1 m).
• Fill the holes with sand, gravel and crushed stone with a layer of about 0.2 m, fill this mixture with water and compact it as efficiently as possible. The stability of the future floor in a private home depends on this.
• Install concrete or brick pillars on the made cushion. The diameter of such columns is recommended to be at least 40x40 cm.

We will attach the floor beams to anchors or threaded studs. It’s up to you to choose which hardware to take; it doesn’t make much difference. Studs or anchors should be embedded 10–15 cm into the upper part of the supports. After this, the pillars need to be covered with roofing felt (do not skimp on the material - do 3-4 layers), cut holes in the joists for attaching hardware and lay the beams on waterproofing.

Professionals recommend making a wooden base using the “floating” method in two layers. Then it will always be warm in a private house. It is advisable to fill the subfloor with expanded clay, not reaching 8–10 cm from the wooden floor.

How to build a high-quality concrete floor yourself?

Concrete flooring is most often installed in homes with brick or concrete walls. Often such a base needs to be made in order to subsequently cover it with wooden boards.

Concrete flooring is characterized by a long service life and excellent strength properties. It is easy to fill it without special knowledge and construction skills. Let us also note that a concrete floor can be made by spending a minimum of money. This material is relatively inexpensive, so it is very often used for private construction needs.

Concrete coating is done like this:

1. Select the top layer of soil in the underground and arrange a 10–15 cm sand cushion, which is watered generously and compacted well.
2. A 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the compressed sand (it is advisable to take material of the middle fraction) and compaction is performed again.
3. They make (rough) a solution of gravel or sand - it would be correct to add a little foam chips or expanded clay to this composition to make the concrete floor warmer.
4. Cover the hardened screed waterproofing material(polyethylene, roofing felt), making sure that it extends 20 centimeters onto the walls. Overlaps of film or roofing felt must be glued.
5. Insulation is poured - expanded polystyrene, produced using the extruded method, or expanded clay. The more insulation layer you add, the warmer it will be. concrete frame.

After all these operations, reinforcing material should be placed metal mesh onto expanded clay or polystyrene and fill in the second screed (finishing). Work is done according to beacons. They should be set strictly according to the level, then the concrete frame will not have distortions. And the house will delight you with an absolutely flat surface without height differences. We hope that you can easily make a concrete floor using our tips. Comfort and warmth to your home!

From the author: Hi all! As you know, all people are divided into two types - those who like to live in apartments and those who like private houses. So, my friend Ivan belongs to the second, for which he paid. When he and his wife bought their living space, he understood absolutely nothing about renovation, but the building needed improvements, and there was no money for professional builders did not have.

I had to learn a lot, but now Ivan can do everything construction works and even lay the floors in a private house with your own hands. Most useful information he found out from his best friend (that is, me). If you also want to furnish your home yourself and save on labor costs, then you have come to the right place. Let's get started.

During home construction, the question always arises: “What flooring is best?” Indeed, under any circumstances, it must satisfy such requirements as the creation of healthy living conditions and safe operation. The floor must be, first of all: smooth, durable, hygienic and non-slip. There are several types of flooring:

• A wooden floor is considered a favorite of residents of private sectors, since wood is not only an environmentally friendly material, but also, compared to concrete, warm;
• for those who prefer strength to warmth, concrete floors are suitable;
• Floating and screed floors are just gaining popularity, but I think that over time they will outshine even wood floors, because they only take 1 day to install.

Before choosing one of these coatings, I recommend taking a closer look at each one individually.

Several ways to lay a wooden floor

It is possible to build a wooden floor even without the help of specialists; to do this, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of laying it on different types grounds. Wooden covering comes in one or two layers (with a subfloor). If we talk about the advantages of wood flooring, we would like to note its environmental friendliness and ease of installation. Aesthetically pleasing, practical and durable, wood flooring can enhance any home.

Installation of coating on support pillars

The second name for this installation is “floating floor”. This type of coating is produced mainly when the connection of walls with joists is impossible. The work proceeds according to the following scheme:

Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru

1. We begin by forming holes in the underground, into which we will install brick supports in the future. We cover the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of bulk material, for example, gravel, sand or crushed stone, fill it with water and carefully compact everything.
2. We begin laying brick supports on the compacted material (it is advisable to use red brick). There is also a second option: it is necessary to install reinforcement into the constructed formwork and pour a mixture of cement and gravel. If you decide to form the supports using the second method, then the cross-section should be 50*50 cm. Check the height with a level and adjust if necessary.
3. We insert anchors or threaded rods into the pillars from above to a depth of 15 cm (beams will be attached to them). In a small home the floor is on support pillars can be done almost the same as in a spacious one. The only difference is that the pillars are placed only around the perimeter of the room and the beams are chosen to be more massive.
4. After completing the preparation of the pillars, we lay 3-4 layers of roofing felt on them. It will act as waterproofing.
5. We make holes in the beams for the mounting pins.
6. We place logs or beams on our roofing material, hook them onto studs and adjust them with a laser or water level. After laying the base, we secure the lining to the logs using nails. We also need to fix the logs themselves on the posts using nuts and washers.
7. We cut off the excess height of the studs using a grinder.
8. We fill the surface of the underground with expanded clay sand, a layer of 20 cm. I recommend using expanded clay, as it perfectly insulates floors.

If you decide to make two-layer floors, then you must immediately lay floorboards on the beams, and completely fill the underground with expanded clay sand, leaving no more than 10 cm between layers.

Installation of rough covering

The subfloor can be installed using several methods. The method is selected depending on the insulation material used in the work. If it is slag, then the coating must be made continuous, from floorboards that are attached to the lower cut of the beams.

1. We cover all the cracks with clay, and after it dries, pour insulation into the cells.
2. We attach a layer of vapor barrier film to the bottom boards and beams and lay thin plywood.
3. Next, we put insulation and again cover everything with a vapor barrier, fixing it to the beams with staples.
4. We attach 10*3 cm logs to the beams, which will become a support for thick plywood or floorboards.

You can clearly see how to make a subfloor in the video:

Installation of wood covering on the ground

Installation of wooden coverings can be done not only on support pillars, but also on the ground. However, the scheme of work here will look different:

1. We compact the soil well and pour a 20 cm thick cushion of gravel, crushed stone or sand on it.
2. Compacting bulk material and lay roofing felt or any other material for waterproofing on it. The approach to the walls must be at least 10 cm.
3. On top of the waterproofing layer we place a support for the beams on the mortar (you can use concrete blocks or bricks). The distance between the beams must be at least 60 cm so that insulation can be placed there.
4. We place insulation (foam plastic, mineral wool, etc.) in the free spaces between the beams.
5. We install on supports made of blocks or bricks wooden beams, level them and fix them with a corner.
6. Whatever coating you choose, it is better to additionally insulate the surface with mineral wool slabs.
7. We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and lay the floorboards, securing them with nails.
8. In order for the floor to be ventilated, we leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm near all walls.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

If as a basis under wood covering protrudes or screed, logs can be laid directly on it. When the floor needs to be raised by 10-20 cm, installation is done on threaded studs. Don’t try to save on logs - the reliability of the entire coating and the duration of its operation depend on them.

Let me immediately note this point - on concrete base there must be a rough coating. But this should no longer scare you, because we already figured it out earlier. So, installation is carried out according to this scheme:

1. We mark the placement of the logs (the distance between them will be 60 cm).
2. On the lines marked with color, we put dots at intervals of 30–40 cm and in these places we make holes into which we insert the retaining pins necessary to hold the beams, in which we will also make slits.
3. Use a level to adjust the horizontal level.
4. We drive the nuts screwed onto the studs into the drilled holes. If there is any excess left, you can cut it off with a sander.
5. Now you can install the subfloor (see above) and decorative coating.

Installing joists on the screed

On concrete screed It’s not at all difficult to install logs, especially if you have all the necessary equipment.

Normal living conditions in a private house are unthinkable without heated floors. How healthy the atmosphere in the room will be depends on how correctly the load-bearing structure of the floor was selected, the insulation and protection elements were made. Laying floors in a private house with your own hands is not difficult; anyone who has a clear understanding of the structure of a home floor will be able to assemble and lay the flooring, even without having the qualifications of a joiner or carpenter.

Wooden floor options

Concrete or stone types of flooring in a private house today are a rarity. Even with powerful thermal insulation, it is almost impossible to turn them into truly warm floors in a private home, so most owners prefer to build a wooden floor in a private home with their own hands. With proper care, floors made of wooden planks can last for several decades, but they still need to be periodically repaired, updated and restored.

Traditionally, a warm floor option in a private household can be done in three ways:

• Lay a classic floor from boards, insulated with mineral wool or expanded clay backfill;
• Flooring made of boards on joists laid on concrete pie, with thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam;
• Lay joist beams on columnar supports.

In the first two cases fertile soil is replaced by a compacted layer of gravel and sand, sealed with sheets of roofing material. If the insulation of the floor in a private room is done by backfilling with expanded clay, then, in addition to the main floor, it is necessary to lay a rough base of boards. On top of the backfill you need to make a film vapor barrier, and then lay a new floor from sanded boards.

In the second case, the heated floor is laid on logs resting on a double concrete screed, insulated with EPS and reinforced with reinforcing mesh. Joist beams can rest on basement part walls or onto threaded studs.

Both options are quite effective, but today they are considered too expensive, since a system of studs with a concrete pad and massive suspended logs will obviously cost a decent amount. Today, this method is used to make flooring in a relatively small private room, with an area of ​​10-15 m2. How to make a heated floor in a private house in an affordable way?

The most modern and easiest to assemble is the installation of floorboards on columnar supports. When choosing a way to properly install a floor in a private home, you have to take into account the labor intensity, cost of installation, and the possibility of repairing a wooden floor in a private home in the future. Installing load-bearing beams on columnar supports allows you to cheaply and safely assemble a floor in a private home of almost any size. Repairing floors on poles can be done within one day, but repairing studs or a long, massive beam of a suspended joist is not so easy.

A concrete cushion under the joists can dramatically reduce humidity and heat loss in a private house. Initially, you will need to fill it with crushed stone and sand, lay a waterproofing film, a layer of insulation, and cover it with a layer of concrete 40-50mm thick. Experts recommend screeding if the soil is soft and there is a danger of rodents entering the subfloor.

Assembling a wooden floor according to the optimal scheme

Most difficult option flooring is associated with the replacement and alteration of the entire supporting structure in old private houses, which are several decades old, and most of the joists and boards have rotted and turned into dust. The situation becomes more complicated if the soil in the underground of a private house is too wet. In this case, you have to look for a way to make wooden floors in a private house so that they are preserved and last for at least a couple of decades.

The sequence of arranging a new floor in private housing construction can be divided into several stages:

1. Clean and prepare the soil in the underground;
2. Assemble columnar supports and waterproofing;
3. Install joist beams;
4. Prepare the tongue and groove board for installation;
5. Install insulation and vapor barrier;
6. Make board laying and decorative finishing of the covering.

Advice! If you are planning to remodel and replace a wooden floor in a private home, place the pre-purchased tongue and groove board in the room where the renovation is planned. In this case, in a couple of weeks the dry board will accept the background humidity of the room, which will eliminate creaking and skewing of the floorboards in the future.

Preparing the supports and soil foundation

How to make a floor in a private house? Initially, it is necessary to free the room in a private house from all structural elements of the old floor. Carry out sanitary treatment; any boards are mercilessly cut out and removed, even those that do not look damaged or rotten in appearance. Often in the boards of an old rotten floor there is a large number of spores of pathogenic microorganisms, so when repairing the floor in a private house, you must wear a mask and protective clothing.

The soil cushion will need to be removed by 25-30 cm and thoroughly compacted. Across the area of ​​the room, we drill holes with a diameter of 30 cm in several rows with a step of 100-120 cm. The inter-row interval is 0.6 m.

Support pillars can be made using two methods - made of bricks or made by casting a concrete mass into a polystyrene mold. The second method is more accurate and faster. Each support is reinforced with four vertical rods, 12 mm thick, welded to steel horizontal plates, 15x10 cm in size. We lay the support frames in the drilled holes, and level the top plates of all supports in the same plane using a hydraulic level. A room measuring 3x4 m required 18 supports.

Quadrangular polystyrene forms are installed on the leveled frames, filled with M300 concrete, with the addition of 10% slaked lime. After 4-5 hours, the molds are removed for welding to proceed normally; the metal plates of the frames must be made clean and shiny.

Floor waterproofing in a private home is made from thick, 0.8 mm, polyethylene film, which is laid on the ground. In places where the columnar supports are raised, the film is taped to each support, and a section of the film on the head of the support is cut to release the metal plate on the post.

A five-centimeter layer of fine crushed stone and a ten-centimeter layer of a mixture of dry sand and quicklime in a ratio of 1:5 are poured onto the laid waterproofing film. Such a mixture will make it impossible for the remains of putrefactive microorganisms to penetrate from the soil to the floor boards in a private house.

How to make a support joist system, laying vapor barrier and insulation

To attach joist beams to columnar supports, you will need to weld a vertical shelf to each horizontal plate. The support beams are attached to the welded plates using a threaded rod, a pair of nuts and belleville washers.

Thanks to the diameter of the hole in the beam increased by 1 mm, during installation the load-bearing surface of the joist can be adjusted and leveled in horizontal plane as in the video:

Beams with a cross-section of 100x60 mm are treated with oil varnish and drying oil before installation.

At the next stage, you will need to lay a 15-centimeter layer of mineral wool and vapor barrier. We lay mineral wool in the space between the joists, after which we stretch the vapor barrier material along the joists in the transverse direction. We attach the film to the joists using a stapler. Individual canvases can be glued together using double-sided construction tape along the red line of the divider.

Advice! Do not use for insulation of floors, ceilings or inner surface walls in a private building are polystyrene foam, especially Chinese or domestic production.

Laying boards and finishing a wooden floor in a private house

For flooring in a private house, tongue-and-groove pine boards 40 mm thick are used. The presence of a groove and a protrusion allows you to obtain a very strong connection of all boards in one plane. Before laying the floor in a private house, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic, dried thoroughly, and then varnished.

Before laying the boards on the joists, it is necessary to make a gap of 10-15 mm from the wall of a private house. The air gap allows you to equalize the humidity in the subfloor of a private house, and at the same time plays the role of a compensator when the boards expand. The first board must be laid with the tenon facing the wall. We attach each board to the joist using black carpentry screws, 50 mm long, with threads along the entire length. The halves are self-tapping screws with a knurled thread ½ of the length of the fastener; they are not suitable for installing floors in private housing construction.

We screw the self-tapping screw into the groove of the board at an angle of 45° using a screwdriver. Before fastening, the board is hammered through a wooden block.

After screwing the self-tapping screw into the groove of the board, microchips are formed from deformation and lifting of individual wood fibers; they must be carefully cut off with a knife, otherwise the tenon of the next floorboard will not fit completely into the groove, which will lead to the formation of a gap.

After laying the boards you will need to do additional processing surfaces. One layer of varnish is not enough to reliable protection from the penetration of moisture into the thickness of the wood. Therefore, before re-varnishing, the floor surface is treated with sanding tape to knock down the gloss and make the floor covering smoother. After finishing work, clean the surface with dry, clean rags or a vacuum cleaner.

10% solvent is added to the pentaphthalic varnish, ensuring that the varnish mixture is easily flowable. It is better to varnish the floor with a wide soft brush, intensively rubbing the varnish into the surface of the wood. Gradually, the air bubbles will disappear, and the second layer will acquire a smooth surface. After twelve hours, the varnished floor surface is moistened, and after a day, dry polishing is done.

Conclusion

Before you begin laying the floor, tongue and groove boards purchased for floor renovation in private housing construction must be sorted and measured for compliance with the groove and tenon sizes, and for the presence of defects in the form of knots and cuts. If there are ring defects in a solid board, they may fall out like corks during laying and tamping. On average, for every hundred calibrated boards there are a couple of defective ones, even when purchasing building materials for renovation in a private home in a company store.