The oldest boats on the market are rubber boats, made of rubberized fabric. When such boats first appeared, they gained instant popularity due to their low cost.

The emergence of PVC boats

At the end of the 20th century, manufacturers began to produce boats made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which soon overtook rubber bands in popularity due to the fact that if damaged, you can independently tune PVC boats. In the manufacture of boats, high-quality reinforced PVC fabric consisting of five layers is used. Reinforcement means the presence of a strong and fairly light frame. The role of the frame in inflatable boats made of PVC is performed by cord - a base made of high-strength synthetic fabric. The cord is covered with layers of PVC fabric, which has water- and air-tight properties, and is also resistant to the harmful effects of salty sea water, flammable materials and solar radiation. To tightly bind the PVC fabric to the cord, a thick adhesive composition is used. This is how the usual inflatable PVC boat is made. However, despite all the advantages of this material, sometimes it is necessary to make repairs and tuning of PVC boats in order to extend the life of the vehicle and update it appearance.

An inflatable boat made of polyvinyl chloride can be seriously damaged by rodents that like to attack various soft materials. In addition, the boat may run into iron bars during operation. Serious damage also occurs as a result of careless use or scratches and cuts not sealed in time. Therefore, it is recommended to repair all breakdowns in a timely manner. In any case, most of the boat repair and tuning work can be done independently, you just need to have a small tutorial And necessary tools for repair and tuning.

Boat repair process

Tuning PVC boats, photos of which are always available in specialized literature, begins with the need to find the damaged area of the boat. It is recommended to carry out repair work where air access is provided. It is best to repair a boat outdoors at temperatures between 15°C and 25°C. To detect minor damage, you need to lower the boat into the water. If air bubbles appear, the boat is damaged.

Tools for repair

To carry out high-quality tuning of PVC boats with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Scissors.
Roller.
Brush.
Solvent with article number 646.
Pencil.
Repair kit received when purchasing a boat.

If the breakdown occurred in the field, then accessories for PVC boats, the tuning of which is not carried out at home, will not be needed. All you need is a repair kit, a knife and a lighter.

Preparation for repair

Next, the damaged area is straightened out out of the blue. Then you need to cut a piece of fabric 10 centimeters larger than the damaged area. After this, the outline of the patch is outlined with a pencil. The area along which the patch will pass must be thoroughly treated with a solvent.

Glue needed for repairs

Tuning PVC boats is often impossible without high-quality glue. To glue small damage, it is better to use Uranus glue. If the damage is serious, then tuning of PVC inflatable boats should be done using UR-600, Demoskol or VITUR adhesives.

Repairing a cut boat bottom

The bottom of the boat, as a rule, is cut with reinforcement bars that lie on the bottom of reservoirs. The cuts on the bottom of the boat are very difficult. In order to tune PVC boats with a cut bottom, you need to use two patches: for the outer and inner sides. Before gluing the damaged area, it must be stitched with thick threads.

Repair of damage longer than 7 centimeters

If the damage turns out to be large, it is necessary to make high-quality tuning of the boats. PVC fabric must be prepared for repair work. Repairs are carried out in the following order:

Two oval patches of the same size are cut out.
The gluing area is carefully straightened and degreased with a solvent.
The outline of the outer patch is outlined where the gluing will be done.
The patch is glued from the inside, and then from the outside. For round cuts with a diameter greater than 2 cm, it is better to glue two patches on the inside and outside.

It is worth remembering that the repair kit involves tuning PVC boats with your own hands for cuts no longer than 15 cm. If the cut is more than 15 cm, then the boat must be taken to a service center.

Methods for gluing damaged surfaces

It is necessary to use the supplied brush to apply glue to the damaged area. After application, you need to firmly press the parts of the boat to be glued together. It is worth noting that this gluing option is short-lived and is considered a quick repair option.
High-quality tuning of a PVC boat for fishing is carried out as follows: the damaged surface must be lubricated with a thin layer of glue and wait until it dries. After ten minutes, you need to repeat this procedure. After this, both parts of the coating are connected, and the place where they are glued is rolled with a roller. In this case, you should work with a roller so that excess glue does not extend beyond the boundaries of the glued patch.
One of the most effective repair methods is considered to be the following: a layer of glue is dried until it loses its stickiness, after which a patch is applied to the damaged area. In order to begin the gluing process, you need to warm up the area where the patch is placed with an electric hair dryer. You should warm it up carefully so as not to overdo it. After this, you can use a roller so that the surfaces to be glued begin to interact with each other.

It should be remembered that when carrying out repair work it is not recommended to use open fire, as this can damage the boat.

After the damaged areas of the boat have been repaired and the tuning of the PVC boats has been completed, you can begin testing the vehicle. To do this, you need to slightly inflate it and leave it under normal conditions for a week. After this period, the layer of glue will be completely absorbed into the surface of the boat. If conditions do not allow you to inflate the boat, you can simply roll it up and leave it to dry. outdoors.

You can go out on the water in a repaired boat only after the glue has completely dried. Otherwise, damage may occur again in the area where the patch was just glued.

Replacing a faulty boat valve

A boat valve malfunction is most often associated with a mechanical impact on it. To replace a damaged valve, you need to stock up on a special wrench that will help remove the valve. It is not recommended to remove the valve using improvised means, as you can damage not only it, but also the boat. If you don’t have a special key at hand, you can make it yourself. To create a key, you need to stock up on a metal tube with a diameter of 13 to 22 mm and a jigsaw, which will be needed to cut out the teeth of the key.

When the key is ready, you need to lower the boat's cylinders and begin repairs. To do this, you need to grope and firmly grasp the mating part of the valve called the “glass”. The valve body is unscrewed from the “glass” with a wrench. It happens that the valve “sours” and it is quite problematic to unscrew it. In such a situation, you can use Liquid Key car spray.

Before installing a new valve, you need to inspect the old one. If the damage is minor, then you can blow it out, wash it in a soapy solution, lubricate the spring with grease and put it back in the boat. The valve should only be replaced if the old one cannot be restored.

Installation of a new valve occurs as follows: the glass is held by hand, and the new valve is carefully screwed in using a wrench. At the same time, you need to be careful not to overdo it or tighten the valve too much. The fact is that over-tightening can lead to further valve failure.

How to prevent abrasions that occur on a PVC boat

When buying chairs for a boat, you must first pay attention to what the joint between the backrest and the seat looks like, and then to the design, color and materials of the chair. The connecting unit must be made of aluminum. If such a unit is made of steel, then it is better to refuse the purchase, since the corner of the chair will rub against the side of the boat and damage the PVC fabric. Chairs with an aluminum assembly never damaged the sides of the boat, but only stained them.

Another problem may arise in a situation where the corner of the chair may touch the seam of the PVC fabric. Due to constant friction, the edges of the seam can become “shaggy”, which sooner or later will lead to the fabric tearing. To prevent possible risks or avoid further destruction of the boat’s surface, it is necessary to install special patches in such places. To install the patches, you will need polyvinyl chloride material, which can be bought at any market, or you can use the remnants of old advertising banners. If the goal is to glue several layers of patches, it is better to use a pattern to cut out patches of the same size and shape. The pattern is also used to indicate the exact location of gluing. This way you can quickly complete the tuning of PVC boats. Photos of tuned and updated inflatable boats made of polyvinyl chloride are more and more often pleasing to the eye.

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Tuning an inflatable boat.

Messages in topic: 14

Fedorych

City of Pskov

Sail for an inflatable boat.

If the boat is too rolly or has less freeboard, the sail area must be reduced to 8 L In the ratio of length to width - more than 3.5. IN

Many sailing rig designs have been developed for inflatable vessels. The optimal one should be considered a catboat with a sprint type sail and a maximum allowable sail area of 4-5 m2. If the boat is operated by an inexperienced navigator, the area should be reduced by 1 - 1.5 m 2With with the help of reefs with which the sail must be equipped. An option for arming an inflatable boat of the "Volna" type with a sprint mainsail and jib is shown in Fig. 1.

All main parts of the spar and rigging (mast, beam, shrouds) are attached to the transverse wooden beam passed through rubber oarlocks. The mast is mounted in a soft wire suspension and supported by shrouds attached to wooden slats along the aft sides. The ends of the transverse beam protruding outward from the rowlocks are hung with slats with duralumin bolts attached to them. The slats are held in place by wire stoppers, and the beam itself is held against transverse movements by washers, which are pressed closely to the oarlocks with wire cotter pins. In addition to the shrouds, oarlock loops made of a strong cable and a pile of jib sheets are attached to the longitudinal slats. Rice. 1. Sailing rig of the boat “Volna”

For ease of transportation, the 2.6-meter mast consists of two pieces of duralumin tube with a diameter of 40 millimeters and a wall thickness of 1.5 millimeters. Standing rigging (shrouds and stay) made of synthetic cables is attached to the top of the mast to a yoke twisted from wire.

The steering wheel is hung on a board passed under the handles at the ends of the cylinders, which are used to carry the boat. There is a hole in the board for the baller. Top part The steering wheel is made of two slats, between which a folding rudder blade is installed. The stern cross member also has cleats for the boom sheets and eyelets into which the longitudinal beams are inserted.

If the boat is equipped with shares, then the most important unit - fastening the mast and screws - can be made even more reliably (see Fig. 2). In this case, the shverz-beam is attached to the transverse rail of the floorboard using a plywood panel measuring 750xx350 millimeters and brackets. The mast is inserted into the spots and steps, fixed to the plywood flooring. The doors can be cut from bakelised plywood 8-10 millimeters thick. They rotate on pins at the ends of the swivel beams. Two trapezoidal plywood strips, located at the ends of the beam, hold the beam in a vertical position. When touching the ground, the drills tilt back, and when they are not needed, they can be raised up and fixed in a horizontal position with wing nuts. Rice. 2. Mounting the mast on Nyrka-1

The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom with a thin synthetic cable through the eyelets in a “snake” fashion, and the jib is attached by the luff to a steel cable, which also serves as a forestay.

It should be noted that the presence of a jib complicates the design of the sailing rig of an inflatable boat and creates additional difficulties during rigging. Therefore, simpler weapons consisting of one mainsail are preferable. A version of this equipment was developed for the inflatable boat “Nyrok-1”. It is also suitable for boats of other models. The design has only one complex unit - fastening the screws. The fact is that they cannot be immediately firmly fixed in one place. They must move along the side to shift the center of lateral resistance relative to the center of sail, that is, to center the boat

3. Sailing equipment.

To increase the rigidity of the hull and uniformly distribute the load from the sailing rig, a support is installed on the bottom of the boat from duralumin tubes (halves of a sports hoop), bent along the contours of the bottom and reinforced in the longitudinal direction with tubes from ski poles. A step ring made from a piece of pipe is installed on this support. The freely rotating mast passes through the pyatner - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 40 and a thickness of 1 millimeter, secured by a tripod made of ski poles, which rests on the edge of the seat and the bow eye.

A beam made of a duralumin tube with a diameter of 25 and a thickness of 1 millimeter is also installed on two tubes of ski poles, laid along the sides and attached to standard oarlocks and rubber lugs. By moving the screws, you can adjust the centering of the boat.

The rudder blade is mounted on a special bracket behind the stern. It is secured with an eye bolt to a flange attached to the bottom support.

The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom with a thin cable using the “snake” method.

The mast consists of two pipe sections 45x1.5x1150 millimeters each, connected by a coupling. There is no standing rigging. The sail is controlled by a boom sheet passed through a block attached to the rudder bracket.

G. Novak Leningrad (St. Petersburg)

Fedorych

City of Pskov

Protecting your boat from theft

To sleep peacefully or protect the boat from theft
Browsing various fishing and boating forums, Lately I began to increasingly see reports of thefts of honestly acquired motorboat property, and in various combinations. They steal motors, they steal boats, they steal boats with motors. Most often this happens at night, in the morning, at three or four o’clock, when sleep is so sweet and deep. Moreover, the probability of finding stolen property in our country is approaching a vanishingly small value, and the owners sometimes show surprising carelessness. Many times I have seen such a picture: a boat, even with a motor, sways peacefully near the shore, often practically unsecured, and the owner is busy tasting drinks of varying degrees of strength and quality. It all ends with two options, either the next day the boat will be found several kilometers downstream, complete or not, and it will be best option, or will never be found, and the unlucky owner will pour out his grief in various communal areas, without thinking about the simple fact that the safety of our own property, with rare exceptions, depends ONLY on the owner himself. No one would think of leaving a car on the street without installing various locking and alarm systems. This happens all the time with boats. And there are plenty of people who like to buy something for free.

Now a few words for those who want to sleep peacefully. There are several ways to protect your property.

- Passive method. Securely, using a steel cable or chain, secure the boat and motor to a massive object, for example, to a tree or a metal pin driven into the ground; the latter is very convenient if the parking place is permanently on the shore during the season. The method is very simple and easy to implement, and has a very low cost. There is only one drawback: it only saves you from unprofessional robbers, because... the latter may well know about it and use pliers and wire cutters for fittings, which are freely sold in construction stores and easily bite the shackle of almost any lock.

-Active method. Installation of various alarm systems. I would like to note right away that in our market I have not come across any special systems designed specifically for boats, so I will have to put my hands and head into making the adaptation.

Option one– adaptation of a conventional car alarm. Of the advantages - wide choose, the ability to connect various sensors, including movement and shock. The main disadvantage, in my opinion, is the complete lack of mobility, requires permanent installation. It may well be suitable for a rigid hull or RIB, but is not suitable for an inflatable boat.

Option two– various volume and motion sensors. Quite universal, suitable for all types of cases. When choosing, you need to pay attention to autonomous systems, with a built-in or external siren. There is only one drawback: the system reacts not only to an intruder, but also to dogs, cats, flying birds and bats and other living creatures. If the sensitivity is adjusted incorrectly, it can drive an unlucky user crazy. Advantage - as a rule, it does not require modifications, turn it on, configure it and sleep well.

Option three– various contact and non-contact displacement sensors. Advantages: low cost, decent reliability and absence of false positives. Disadvantage: they require serious modifications. Small-sized autonomous window and door sirens, as well as various radio bells, are quite suitable for this purpose. In the first case, when trying to move a boat or motor, the siren scares the thief and wakes up the owner, in the second, it only wakes up the owner, leaving him with the choice of what to do with the thieves: shoot them immediately or, after catching them, fry them over low heat...

As an example, I will give one of the simplest alarm systems made and used by me.

The siren is rigidly fixed on the large rod, the small rod is movable, spring-loaded, and the sensor magnet is mounted on it. The plate prevents the boat material from being pressed through.
Usage is extremely simple. We install the sensor at a certain angle under the keelson.

We compress the spring and bring the sensor magnet to the siren, turn on the siren (the magnet blocks the operation of the generator), the system is ready for operation. When you try to move the boat, the sensor falls, the magnet moves away from the siren under the action of a spring, the reed switch closes, and the siren begins to scream very unpleasantly, and the tone of the sound emitted by the siren is specially selected to achieve maximum effect.

If an engine is installed on the boat, we install the sensor under the anti-cavitation plate; when trying to remove, lift the engine or move the boat, everything happens in the same way.

In conclusion, I would like to note once again, even if you have an alarm installed, never leave your boat on the shore overnight, because it takes thieves much less time to pull the boat onto the water than it takes you to wake up and run to the water.

When developing the alarm, the device http://www.zdravshop...products_id=783 was used

Best regards b58

Fedorych

City of Pskov

For attaching the echo sounder sensor to a rubber inflatable boat without a transom

1 - appearance of the guard washer. There was only one available - with a depression in the center. They are also available with absolutely parallel edges. In any case, you have to grind the thickness down to 15 mm using sandpaper (with a file) in order to put the sensor “ears” on them.

2 - rail washer with a sensor installed on it. This is the first one, not really good option, when the washer was glued to the very bottom of the boat’s cylinder (for clarity, the photo is upside down). The echo sounder worked quite well, but there was no convenience in installing/dismounting the sensor. Fixing the dachik is done by tightening it with either a wing nut or a knurled nut (this option is better!).

3 - design of a metal extension, which allows you to glue the guard washer above the waterline and lift the sensor above the water (lower it into the water) for installation/dismantling.

4 - appearance of this option on the boat. I would like to emphasize that this is not a working version, but an illustrative one - to demonstrate essence. I quickly found suitable pieces of hardware. If your hands grow even slightly from the right place, all this is easy to do yourself.

Fedorych

City of Pskov

Transporting a boat over short distances

transporting a boat over short distances

Part one

The topic of transporting a boat from the car or parking lot to the water has been discussed more than once, everything here is quite clear, in most cases there is simply no alternative to wheels on the transom of the boat. In rare, very specific cases, it is possible to use a slip treller to transport a boat over short distances, for example, from a summer cottage to the water.

The purpose of writing this note is to try to understand when and how, in principle, such a concept as wheels on a transom appeared and how this problem is solved not only here, but also on a global scale. I hope this will be useful to developers and DIYers, of whom we fortunately still have plenty.

The first mention available to me of transom wheels for transporting a boat was found in the book “300 Tips on Boats, Boats and Motors” edited by G.M. Novak 1973 edition.

As can be seen from the figure, practically nothing has changed in 34 years, and in principle it could not have changed, for example, a similar fastening design is still used Zodiac, and we have Badger(I suspect that the manufacturer is the same). Moreover, as can be seen from the figure, the original purpose is wheels for motor boat with a rigid hull, which is quite natural; in those days there were practically no inflatable boats with a transom. So the statements of some comrades about priority in this area are nothing more than a myth.

Currently, there are mainly three options for transom wheels on our market - wheels offered by the company Badger, wheels offered by companies Mnev, Poseidon And Corsair, as well as wheels from various small manufacturers and their interpretations.

The wheels from Badger are essentially similar to the wheels offered by the Zodiac company, at least they have the same manufacturer, an American company Weigh. The design is quite successful, has survived many generations of users, has several modifications for different weights of the boat and method of fastening. In the version on the left, the wheel can be tilted up when moving through the water; it is enough to rearrange just one pin. When assembling the boat, only the permanent bracket remains on the transom. The disadvantages are the straight wheel stand, which does not allow the use of this stand on boats with gussets on the transom, and the lack of a bracket for the echo sounder sensor.

Right option- probably the oldest of all, it doesn’t remind you of anything, that’s right, the very first drawing from the book “300 Tips...”. Fastening - using the lower clamp and a wing screw in the upper hole (a threaded bushing is installed in the transom). In the transport position, this rack is transported inside the cockpit, the wheel fastening is through the lower hole into the threaded bushing from inside the boat. Somewhat inconvenient, but the wheels take up virtually no space in the cockpit and do not wobble when moving. Material: aluminum alloy with special coating.

Wheels from the company Amphibalt, colloquially called Mnevsky. Probably the most comfortable wheels to use. Material – stainless steel. It can be moved to the working and transport position by simply pressing the spring-loaded latch. Suitable for any boats. The disadvantages are that they require assembly tools every time when assembling and disassembling the boat, and there is no provision for installing the echo sounder sensor bracket on a standard mount. The bracket permanently installed on the transom has a noticeable height and can damage the boat's cylinders during transportation, without additional protective equipment. But, despite all these shortcomings, this model enjoys well-deserved popularity.

The last ones presented are wheels from homemade people. The assortment here is very large, from simple designs made in one or more copies, to popular designs with almost industrial production volumes. There are basically two common options for attaching wheels to the transom - using a permanently installed U-shaped bracket and using racks or threaded rods, also permanently installed on the transom. In essence, all options are nothing more than an interpretation of wheels on the transom from the company DAVIS, no matter what Vasily Rumyantsev claims, in common parlance - dV, defending his copyright. We must pay tribute, the design of the fastening from dV turned out to be very successful, with good repeatability and manufacturability. The main disadvantage is that it is impossible to install the wheels alone if there is no additional handle glued to the inside of the cylinder. Another small drawback is that due to the fairly large tolerances of the holes in the racks, when transporting the boat, the wheel racks dangle slightly and can damage the coating on the transom.

For example, here is another version of a similar principle of fastening racks, but with threaded rods. This option is just as easy to implement, but requires tools when assembling the boat and installing the wheels. The design turned out to be very reliable for transporting the boat from the car to the water, but it is absolutely not suitable when you need to use wheels in a camp remote from the base. A straight stand will interfere with the control of the boat, even if there are no gussets on the transom, and in my opinion, the threaded connection is not reliable under conditions of a long passage and inevitable vibration. The safety rail will not allow you to lose the fastening nut, and the stand with the wheel...

There are also many options using a U-shaped bracket. Despite some complexity in design and technology, this option is, in my opinion, more convenient to use. Installing the racks when assembling the boat does not require an assistant, which in itself is a plus. There can be several options for fixing the rack in different positions, from a threaded connection on the left picture to side pins on the right. This option is also good because it allows you to use racks of a smaller cross-section.

All proposed mounting options have a significant advantage - as a rule, the developer also offers a bracket for mounting the echo sounder sensor. In modern conditions, this is a significant plus, there are more and more echo sounders in use, but purchasing an additional universal bracket for the sensor can be very expensive, and installing it can be problematic, as the fastening elements of the wheels get in the way. The proposed brackets are very successful, have adjustment of the sensor position in depth and a very reasonable price, which is important. Their dimensions make it possible not to remove the sensor from the bracket each time, but to store and transport it assembled.

To sum up the first part, we can confidently say that if you want to choose wheels for the transom, there is currently no problem, it all depends on the goal and task. There is also nothing difficult in making them yourself and the field for creativity is quite large.

Part two

In this part I will try to talk about how our foreign neighbors transport boats. It is mainly written for those who want to get acquainted with foreign experience and compare with domestic developments.

The first option is immediately very interesting for two reasons. Firstly, as a response from dV regarding the primacy of the use of curved racks, and secondly, as another option for mounting the rack.

Here the rack is inserted into a transom-mounted bracket from below or above. From the possibility of falling further, it is protected by a stop on the stand, and from the possibility of falling out - by a spring retainer. Below, on the transom, there is a buffer installed, a very smart solution, even if there is play in the post-bracket connection, which is inevitable, the transom will not be damaged and the boat will retain a quite decent appearance.

Option two. Carbon fiber transom wheels (left) and stainless steel wheels.

The mounting option itself did not seem particularly successful to me due to the dimensions of the bracket, but, in my opinion, the wheels here are not removable. The diameter of the wheel also seemed somewhat small, rather more suitable for a boat anchorage, or an equipped slipway, rather than for sandy beach. This wheel option (left) is supplied for boats Quick Silver.

Another option, for those who for some reason do not want to drill the transom. Transporting the boat - keel up.

So slowly but surely we got to the wheels from dV. The similarity is simply amazing, the difference is the fixing pin inside the pipe. Only, as you understand, the manufacturer is not in Zelenograd, but in England...

This option was specially chosen to be larger; it seemed to me the most universal.

Manufacturer indicates maximum speed transportation about 20 km/h. The highlight is that the wheels, when used on the road, are connected by a single axle and the racks are made of a springy material, which gives the boat suspension when moving. Naturally, such traffic is prohibited on federal roads, but not all of them are federal...

Another interesting option. Fully cast bracket and wheel stand. The variant of the location of the wheel when tilting was solved in an original way. Unlike common options, the bracket is curved here, not the wheel stand. The wheels themselves are also impressive; the cross-country ability should be quite decent.

One last example slip trailer. They are still not very common in our country, but sometimes they can come in handy.

For example, at boat stations or if there is a house by the water. On such a trailer you can bring not only a light inflatable boat to the water, but also a solid RIB or a rigid body.

Finally I would like to note that this is only a brief overview of transom wheel options produced abroad.

Sincerely, Alexander

Fedorych

City of Pskov

Fishing with a lawnmower...

To slightly paraphrase a well-known expression, we can say, “those born to crawl cannot swim,” looking at the next attempt to adapt a lawn mower to a boat as a driving force.
The idea of an ultra-light outboard motor for a small boat attracts many fishermen. A motor that could become an alternative to an electric motor with its high fuel consumption and heavy fuel tanks, and would also have the ability to move a boat in shallow water, is of interest to many. And, of course, the eyes of these people turn specifically to the lawn mower, or more precisely to the trimmer. We decided to think about this too...

Why a trimmer?
Lightweight, modern, low-drinking motor with a built-in tank, with ready-made controls: gas handle, starter.
There is even a long “leg”, what else do you need?

All you need is a clamp to attach it to the transom of the boat and a screw. Need to try!!! We take a ready-made clamp from the nearest construction store. Adapting is not a problem!
Then the screw... The screw...
That's it, the crisis begins here.

But we were lucky. It turns out that a craftsman from distant Australia has already created the missing piece of the motorcycle puzzle. We urgently order and “literally” within three months IT arrives! Here it is, in a box with a sparkling stainless steel miracle drive and, in addition, a bunch of adapters for the flexible shaft of the trimmer.

The manufacturer stated that the adapters allow you not to think about choosing a specific trimmer model, so the tool was purchased without any fuss famous brand SHTIL, inexpensive and beautiful with a motor power of 0.65 kW.

Assembling the unit is a separate matter. The flyer in the propulsion box promises “from lawn mower to outboard motor in about 2 minutes!” However, it took me about an hour to properly connect the attachment to the propeller and SHTIL.
Not everyone home handyman In stock there is a set of internal sprockets necessary to deploy the trimmer pipe, which also had to be trimmed...

But, in the end, the adapter did fit and allowed me to connect the propeller shaft and the trimmer shaft. Tightened the eccentric clamp. I screwed a clamp to the trimmer pipe, which, by the way, was included in the kit, and you’re done! Tests tomorrow...

On the water, our inflatable kayak, with Trimmet installed on it, showed a speed of about 6.5 km/h, which corresponds to best performance electric motors tested on the same day. Control of the boat was mastered in five minutes; it didn’t work out faster because the motor needed time to warm up.

It’s simple: press the gas and go, let go and stop. The trimmer's 350 ml fuel tank provides an hour's power reserve at maximum speed. For comparison, the closest electric competitor will require a battery with a capacity of approximately 50 Ah to have such a reserve, and this is an additional, and quite considerable, weight.

At the same time, the propeller of the electric motor is practically not protected from underwater obstacles, which cannot be said about the Trimmet propeller with its powerful “armor”, which seems to be resistant to any stones.

Of the noted disadvantages, noise is perhaps the most basic. Also, in our version of the assembly, exhaust gases, when turning the engine, tended to “hit” the driver in the nose, although it is possible that with a more thorough selection of the trimmer this problem could have been avoided.

So the simple lawnmower set sail as an outboard motor. Perhaps others, more powerful ones, will soon join her.
We have already planned tests of an ultra-light planing lawn mower for the next season...

Information taken from badger.ru

Yurets and alex-7 like this

Fedorych

City of Pskov

Part 1 of a series of articles about PVC boats: “About PVC boats for fishing in detail”

Chassis

It’s rare that a fisherman these days doesn’t install folding, self-locking landing gear on his PVC boat - the device is extremely functional and useful. The chassis greatly simplifies the process of launching and lifting any PVC transom boat alone. The presence of the chassis allows you to fully equip it and install the motor on the shore, and then launch it into the water. Depending on the expected soil at the place where the boat is launched and the width of the transom board, such chassis can have one wheel on each rack or dual wheels. Similar to the nose strut of airplanes. Such reinforced chassis are usually installed on large boats that have a wide transom board. On small transoms, twin landing gears can interfere with the motor's ability to turn. The list includes, one might say, the traditional set of options for almost any Russian manufacturer of PVC boats. But this list is far from exhaustive.

UKB and Targa

Many manufacturers, on whose boats cans are installed according to the “liktroslikpaz” principle, offer an interesting design for placing fishing rods or spinning rods, as well as navigation equipment. This design is called UKB (universal mounting block). Its basis is waterproof plywood with a cut groove of a complex profile that follows the contours of the cable wire. That is, we get the same principle of fastening? lyktros-lykpaz?. A glass holder for a spinning rod can be installed on a plywood block. Moreover, the position of the holder can be different: vertical or at an angle. Such a holder can be used for fishing on the track, and simply for transporting gear in a vertical position.

To develop the theme of spinning rod holders, a rather complex design can be proposed, which has the professional name Targa. It is a structure made of pipes (pipes made of aluminum alloys are used for these purposes, but more often thin-walled stainless steel), with attached?glasses? - places where spinning rods are installed for transportation in a vertical position. Its installation can be done in different places on the boats. Some people mount it on the transom of PVC boats, which does not seem very convenient, especially when fishing.

There is an option to install the Targa in the midship area (in the middle of the boat).

It is worth recalling the possibility of installing downriggers on a PVC boat - a kind of winch that allows you to fish all horizons and all depths, up to several tens of meters, with any bait. To install the downrigger, a removable platform made of waterproof plywood is mounted on the cylinder. The principles of fastening this platform coincide with one of the types of fastening the transom on boats with an O-shaped cylinder.

Remote control

On large boats, especially if they are not disassembled during the season and are stored on the water or on a boat trailer, it is quite possible to install a remote motor control. In this case, the control station is mounted on a special console, to which all necessary communications are connected:

Remote engine start,

Motor rotation control,

Engine throttle reverse control,

Trim control (motor tilt angle).

And also the necessary instruments: a tachometer, an on-board voltmeter and, possibly, a trim meter (it shows the angle of the engine). You can also install an echo sounder and navigator on the console. Depending on the design of the boat, several versions of such consoles have been developed.

Armchair

For the skipper carrying out remote control boat, any of the possible types of swivel chair can be installed on a special podium. Some designs are height adjustable. The main advantage of such a chair is its very ergonomic shape and excellent back support, which is extremely necessary when moving along waves and during long movements and trips. This design looks quite harmonious on large boats. It does not take up much space, leaving a passage on the left side. Looking at a similar design for large boats, I somehow thought, why, in fact, not equip a similar chair on small boats. They also move a lot, and the skipper also needs back support during long trips... There are several ways to attach such a chair to standard cans.

Moreover, diagrams of rotating mechanisms have already been developed on which chairs can be mounted on a bank. But there is one thing... such a chair has too much amplitude and swing angle back and forth when installed on a standard can, regardless of the method of attaching this can to the cylinder. And if on smooth water these swings are almost unnoticeable, then as soon as the waves clear up, sitting on such a chair begins to cause... mild anxiety, and then irritation.

The chair is comfortable, idea rotary mechanism- is also good, but the fastening of the chair should be much more rigid. In the process of studying possible locations for installing the chair, the following idea was considered and implemented. Provide a couple of points for fixing the chair on the cylinder and at least one, but dispersed point, on the floor or on the inflatable bottom (and it doesn’t even matter what pressure it will be, high or low). The design of the boat is such (I already mentioned this above) that when moving the boat constantly experiences deformations; the greater the wave and speed, the greater these deformations. From which it follows that it is impossible to rigidly connect any two elements of the boat with the frame (or stand) of the chair; these same deformations will either break the chair or tear the inflatable elements of the boat. Therefore, all connections must have a small degree of freedom.

It was these conditions that became decisive in the creation of the skipper’s reclining seat, about which in a little more detail. The podium or frame on which the chair rests was made of steel pipe, diameter 25 mm and painted powder paint. The structure rests at two points on the sides, where it is fixed using additionally installed eyelets cast from PVC. Fastening to the side is carried out using a long M10 bolt with a self-locking nut, around the axis of which the structure can be folded onto the side.

The arms are spaced as far apart as possible to distribute the force over a large surface and reduce the amplitude of the chair's swing.

The load acting on the ring when sitting in a chair is directed at a slightly downward angle. Therefore, even according to the most conservative estimates, it turned out that the strength of the eyelets themselves and the adhesive seam between them and the cylinder would be more than enough for the weight of the skipper well over 100 kg.

The lowest point of the structure will rest on the bottom. Since the movement of the boat along the waves can also be accompanied by flights into the air, this support point must also be fixed. However, the fixation cannot be rigid; this connection must be provided with a small degree of mobility. The simplest and most accessible would be to use two pairs of half rings, which will be installed on the floor section with screws (or glued to the surface of the inflatable bottom) and a piece of sling.

To optimize cargo placement in the boat, the space under the seat can be used for the gas tank of the outboard motor. To do this, you need to install another half ring on the floor and use a longer sling. There are several different models of chairs on sale. I took an inexpensive marine-style chair based on the ease of seating and, most importantly, light weight.

Only stainless steel fasteners are included with the chair; all other elements must be made by yourself. These chairs are designed by the manufacturer to fit commercially available pedestals and swivel mechanisms.

I have my own pedestal, but a more detailed examination of the rotating mechanism led me to understand the need to make it, but more reliable, durable and, most importantly, inexpensive and convenient for replacing worn parts.

It seems that one of optimal solutions looks like that. The axis of the distributed bearing is a welded M12 screw with a fixing self-locking nut. And the load acting from above is evenly distributed over 6 points, which slide along flat surface pedestal. They are made of caprolon and are a high washer. These washers, in turn, are attached to the chair with M8 screws.

The principle of operation and design are clearly visible in the attached photographs. Installing the chair on an inflated boat takes no more than 1–2 minutes. Disassembly is accordingly the same. You only need to unscrew 2 nuts and loosen the securing strap.

If someone decides to repeat the design for their boat, they should keep in mind that:

I specifically do not give the dimensions of the podium; for different diameters of the cylinders you need to select the height of the podium and everything is measured strictly locally;

The chair should be installed at some distance from the transom and should not interfere with the rotation of the motor (the tiller should not touch the chair);

- when installing the chair on a floorboard, edged aluminum profile, in order to avoid its possible damage, it is necessary to place some kind of damping material under the lower support of the pedestal, for example, a rest made of PVC profile. And attach the support to both elements of the floorboard;

When the skipper is placed on such a chair, he appears to be slightly higher than on a standard canopy. If the design of the boat does not provide a handle to hold the skipper right hand, then it makes sense to additionally install such a handle in order to increase safety;

To fasten the half rings to the solder structure, M4-M5 screws should be used.

And from the bottom of the floorplate, stick some kind of additional protection over the screws to avoid rubbing the keelson or the bottom with the screws. The author expresses gratitude for technical assistance in the preparation of materials to the St. Petersburg companies Poseidon, BC5 and Lotsman.

Having bought a PVC boat, sooner or later every owner thinks about improving the technical and functional characteristics swimming device. Tuning can be ordered from trusted masters who, for a fee, are able to realize any client’s wishes. However, the most interesting process independent conduct tuning, which will not only improve the performance of the boat, but also bring a lot of positive emotions.

Strengthening the boat structure

Tuning should begin with strengthening the bottom surface. Despite the fact that manufacturers pay increased attention to materials for the bottom, it wears out over time. Actively using a swimming device or carelessly bumping into stones can seriously damage the bottom.

Gluing a PVC-based profile can help in this situation. However, when improving the bottom surface, it is worth remembering that the profile will increase the weight of the vessel. It is recommended to strengthen the bottom as much as possible only in cases of constant use of the craft on fast rivers with a rocky bottom. If fishing is done in a quiet body of water, then the strengthening of the bottom surface can be minimized.

What may be required to strengthen the bottom:

PVC membrane or corresponding profile;
PVC adhesive base "Vinicol" or "Uran".

If desired, you can reinforce it using a membrane without using an adhesive base.

Step by step process:

The surface of the floating craft is washed from sand.
Degrease the clean surface.
After removing the valve, disconnect the transom wheels.
Paper is laid out on the flotation device (inflated) and 2 patterns are cut out, according to the dimensions of the bottom surface (the area between the location of the cylinders and the keel).
According to the received patterns, we carefully cut out the elements from the membrane. The mass of one part is usually slightly less than 2 kg, and the thickness exceeds 1.5 cm.
The cut material is laid out in an open place, where the sun's rays fall until the desired shape of the product is completely taken.
Turn on the hairdryer, heat up all the parts and squeeze out while air using a roller.
We work very well on the extreme areas. Bonding of materials is carried out by heating the membrane material from exposure to high temperatures.
We glue the PVC profile onto the keel on both sides. This will protect the keelson.
The boat is also strengthened by cylinders (a quarter of their length).
If desired, you can strengthen the boat along the transom(it is covered only with a layer of bottom woven base).

How to glue a fender yourself

Reinforcement with timber can be done with your own hands according to the instructions below:

We wash the surface of the bottom of the swimming device. Remove sand deposits and dry.
Degrease the dried surface with vodka, alcohol or gasoline.
Apply with a brush thin layer adhesive base on the surface of the timber and the vessel.
Leave for 20 minutes, after which we apply the second layer in the same way.
We wait for the material to dry completely (it should not stick to your hands).
We press the applied timber extremely precisely to the surface.
To ensure maximum adhesion, you should preheat the surface with a hairdryer.
Again, squeeze the gluing area and roll a round, weighty object over it.

Installation of redans

A redan is a unique profile with a guide (generally reminiscent of a triangle shape). By equipping the craft with redans, you can increase the level of stability of the boat on planing. You can combine the placement of redans with the application of additional prophylaxis to the keel and cylinders. Short steps can be placed in the forward part of the bottom (area of intense splash formation).

Installation of stringers

Before installing the stringers, markings should be made:

By placing the set of floorboards on the floor, we ensure that the sequence is exactly copied how they are placed in the cockpit.
The stringer is applied to one side of the pad, while ensuring that its length overlaps three adjacent floors.
It is not recommended to install stringers in the bow of the vessel. When planing, the main load falls on the floors of the third rear area of the body of the PVC product. Based on this, it is more advisable to install the stringer on the outer floors from the transom part of the boat.
It is very important that when installing stringers, the pajolines do not protrude beyond the edges. To ensure this condition, you should mark the depth of the cut, which will ensure that the stringer is placed on the outermost area of the plywood.
To make markings, we apply a stringer and align it with the plane of the outer parts of the floorboards. Observing the dimensions of the profile, we draw a contour for the cut (on both edges of the stringer).
Connect the markings with one line and get the desired most accurate marking of one side.
When marking cuts for the stringer, you should add about 4 cm to the length(from each side). This will allow you to comfortably put on and take off the stringer if necessary.
When marking, the middle payolina moves slightly to the opposite side from the marked area. After this, markings should be made on the second side of the floor.
Having finished marking and taking a jigsaw, we begin cutting out according to the markings of the pockets(for installing stringers). You can prevent the appearance of chips on plywood if you use nail files according to wooden materials", which have small teeth. When working, you should act slowly so as not to make mistakes.
Having completed all the steps, we slightly round the edges of the payolin and treat them with a water-repellent impregnation. Pinotex Focus, which contains sufficient quantity wax. If desired, the outer sections can be treated with drying oil (well heated) or yacht varnish (waterproof). Following these recommendations will prevent the swelling of the pajoline.

By equipping the craft with redans, you can increase the level of stability of the boat on planing

Hard floor

When making a hard floor you cannot do without:

sheet of plywood (10 mm);
loops - about 20 pcs.;
bolts;
nut;
yacht varnish;
impregnation;
washers

Step by step process:

First of all, we make one that fits the dimensional characteristics. bottom pattern from linoleum.
Width indicators(taking into account the rectangular part of the bottom) should be 1.5 cm larger to ensure normal clearances.
Having cut out the linoleum, we will mark the hard floor. It will be placed between the floor (hard type) and the PVC coating of the bottom, which will prevent the fittings from damaging the existing bottom.
The pattern is folded in half and trimmed its symmetry is achieved.
Place a sheet of plywood in front of you, carefully cut out six payols (width 80 cm).
The square left after cutting If desired, it can become a foot rest.
We round the long sides of the pajoline using a file. Impregnate with protective impregnation.
We collect from payolin for the surface the bottom of the accordion on loops.
Be sure to use a bolt(the side where the loops are located) with a countersunk head. Otherwise, the floor will not be foldable.
Part of the bolts peeking out from reverse side carefully cut using a grinder. We sharpen the nuts. To ensure the maximum level of rigidity, 3-4 loops should be placed per connection.
The resulting structure is covered on top with a piece of linoleum and outlined with a felt-tip pen.
Cut off the excess parts using a jigsaw.
We round the edges along the entire contour using a file.
Taking sandpaper, sand the entire surface, cover it with 3-4 layers of varnish (yacht look).

Boat anchor

There are a large number of models of anchors for swimming craft. Most fishermen often use any iron device of suitable weight as an anchor. Some fishermen prefer to buy collapsible models.

When choosing an anchor, you should take into account certain requirements:

Weight should be at least 5-6 kg(depending on the strength of wind gusts and current speed, also big influence has the sail of the ship);
Possibility of lifting and lowering from the place where the boat is controlled.
Boats whose length reaches 4 meters must be equipped with an anchor eye and a roller (optional). This will ensure the safety of the cord in areas of friction with metal.

Spinning rod holders

It is more expedient to make holders for spinning rods based on plastic tubes. It is advisable to place 2 holders on each side.

Echo sounder sensor

The echo sounder sensor can be fixed using a suction cup, but in most cases it does not hold well on PVC boats. As a solution to the problem, you can purchase an aluminum tube with a square cross-section. We drill holes in the tube (through holes) intended for the pin.

We make an eye-egg and fix it with glue in the upper side area of the balloon. You can adjust the immersion depth of the sensor by lightly moving the pin. We equip the lower part of the tube with a bracket for the sensor. By rotating it vertically, you can achieve the required level of inclination. Horizontal rotation is impossible due to the profile pipe.

Transom wheels

There are a lot of options for creating transom wheels. The main purpose of wheels is to transport a loaded boat from the trailer to the aquatic environment.

Step-by-step process for making wheels:

We prepare inflatable wheels with a diameter of 300-400 mm and a width of more than 100 mm. It is very important to select the largest possible diameters, which will prevent it from getting stuck in the ground.
The wheel hub is connected to it as tightly as possible.
The chassis can be made on the basis of channels or pipes. The simplest way to attach the transom to the chassis is to use a metal plate welded to a section of pipe that will accommodate the upper area of the chassis without play.
All chassis mounts must have at least 3-4 points and plates(clamp type) located on inside transom They will provide the maximum level of fastening strength.
The chassis is fixed to the fasteners using bolts. If desired, the wheels can be raised along the cylinders.

Inflatable keel

Not every PVC boat is equipped with a keel. Its presence is especially important for boats with a motor. Keel has the following functions:

can ensure the vessel is kept on course;
prevents the bow area of the boat from tearing off the surface of the water surface when moving with the engine running.

You can also make a keel with your own hands:

A tube is glued together from waterproof materials, having a diameter of 100 mm with a valve.
The required length of the tube is usually calculated by measuring the distance from the stern to the bow.
Glue the tube to the bottom surface in the inner part of the vessel in the place of the keel, using transverse strips of PVC.
It is advisable to first pour mustard solution into the pipe, which will provide the required level of tightness.
Reaching shallow water from the keel the air is sure to escape.

The keel prevents the bow area of the boat from tearing off the surface of the water surface when moving with the engine running

Seats

The majority of store-bought PVC boat models are equipped with hard seats, which deprive the fisherman of comfort and do not allow him to sit comfortably for a long time. To ensure your own comfort on board the ship, you can install soft seats on board, having previously covered them with leatherette.

As an option, you can purchase inflatable chairs. If desired, the soft seat is complemented by a bag located under it and serving as storage small parts. The size of the bag should be proportional to the size of the chair.

Engine insurance

Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict what may happen to the boat after entering open water. Unexpected collisions with obstacles are considered to be quite common troubles for fishermen. In this case, poor tightening of the clamps can cause the outboard motor to fall from its location. Very often it simply sinks to the bottom of the reservoir.

To eliminate this kind of misunderstanding, you should strengthen the motor. To do this, a cable (synthetic or steel) is pulled along the transom, bypassing the eye rings that are located on the transom. In simple terms, the motor is securely tied up and it becomes impossible to lose it.

Awning

When tuning a boat, fishermen often install an awning on it. Awnings are available in a variety of varieties and can be designed for certain models ship For small boats, umbrella awnings are usually used to protect a person from rain and sun.

Boats equipped with a motor are often equipped with:

The nose cone is based on PVC material. Some models are equipped with a viewing window. The awnings can easily be thrown over a special arc, protecting people from splashes and preventing high waves from getting inside the boat. When planing, the nose cone acts as a wing, which prevents the craft from jumping in the air during strong gusts of headwind. The presence of a small pocket allows you to store a copy of the board number.
The transformable awning is attached to the board with aluminum arches. The design is able to shelter people from raindrops and gusts of wind. Windows located on the awning product make it possible to move under the motor (in light winds). The side parts of the PVC material are movable and can be zipped and raised when fixed with slings. By changing the position of the side parts of the awning, you can comfortably spend the night on the water, fish in rainy weather, or get out onto land. Most models are equipped with ventilation devices.

Table and travel bags

Bags are actively used to store useful little things that can come in handy while fishing. They can be placed in the bow of the boat or under the seat. To secure the bag, you should use a basic boat tie-down. You can build a small comfortable table on a boat from high chair for feeding (part of a plastic table).

Additional options

As an additional tuning, fishermen attach a gas tank and equip the boat with a spinning rod.

Fastening the gas tank is a very important procedure, which will allow you not to lose it during sharp turns or strong currents. Usually the tank is tied up using a strong rope passed through the half rings.

You can fix the half rings in the following ways:

by gluing to the bottom (in cases where the floor is inflatable);
if the floor is hard, it is more expedient to screw the half rings with screws to the pajoline.

Anglers call the spinning rod a tarka among themselves. As a rule, it is performed on the basis of a pipe, with a glass securely attached to install the gear. The container is installed in the transom part of the vessel or in the middle.

When gluing accessories to an inflatable boat, you must use an adhesive base High Quality(specialized).
Before gluing, be sure to degrease both surfaces.
Each layer of glue is applied after 15-20 minutes, which is necessary for the glue to polymerize.

Tuning a PVC boat is an improvement in technical indicators and characteristics, which helps make the fishing process easier and more productive. This may include changes to the exterior or the installation of new internal structural elements.

Such work to improve the vessel allows you to avoid the financial costs of purchasing a new boat. You can adjust the appearance and technical capabilities of an existing swimming device.

Modifying a PVC boat for fishing with your own hands helps to increase the level of safety for a person to be on this vessel while fishing, and also allows you to increase the life of the boat. To improve these functions, the following work is carried out:

install a parking anchor;
equip the product with a protective awning;
modernize the fisherman's chair;
equip the vessel with various bags for storing small items necessary for fishing;
install a camp table;
make a similar staircase;
install an electric or gasoline power unit;
make a sail;
install mounts for fishing rods, gas tank and echo sounder;
install special ones.

All these modernization works improve the level of comfort and safety of the fisherman. The user can strengthen the bottom of the vessel, make a hard floor, increase the level of protection of the sides from mechanical damage, and install fastenings for additional safety ropes and ropes. And to increase the service life, it is recommended to use parking and transportation covers made for such boats.

Strengthening the bottom

When strengthening the bottom, the following factors must be taken into account:

The weight of the inflatable boat can increase up to 12 kg, and the overall dimensions can increase by 20-30 mm.
The recommended material for reinforcement is PVC tuning tapes.
The thickness of the mounted material should not exceed 50 mm.
Reinforcing the ship's center strip and torpedoes provides a little extra protection and stability. And reinforcement on the entire bottom will increase the service life and safety several times.

The material can be used strips of plastic, aluminum or duralumin. They are fixed using special rivets on the central part of the bottom or on the rear of the vehicle.

To carry out this procedure you will need the following tools and parts:

Reinforcement material recommended - PVC 30-50 mm thick;
construction tape;
construction hair dryer;
special glue for PVC;
cardboard boat patterns;
roller;
alcohol or solvent to remove grease.

The inflated boat must be turned over and the bottom cleaned of dirt and dust. The desired shape is cut out of the prepared material using scissors, applying a cardboard pattern. Using a rag, degrease the working surface of the vessel using a two-component solution or alcohol. Scotch tape is glued along the contour of the patches.

Before applying glue, the workpiece must be heated with a hairdryer.

The glue itself must be applied in 2 layers: the first should be thin, and the second can be applied only when the first has dried, but not completely dried. The workpiece is installed on the bottom. It should be smoothed using a roller. Depending on the glue used, you need to let the vessel dry for 2-3 days.

Inflatable keel

An inflatable keel is an element that must be equipped with a PVC boat with a length of more than 3000 mm. Such an element prevents the vessel from capsizing during high speed travel and makes it possible to accurately follow the intended course. It creates additional load on the front, which allows you to keep the boat afloat. Each fisherman can make such equipment on his own.

For a homemade inflatable keel you will need the following elements:

dense PVC boat fabric;
glue;
valve;
PVC strips can be used as a fender;
mustard solution.

Tuning PVC boats - making an inflatable keel:

From pre-prepared material it is necessary to glue a small tube with a diameter of 100 mm on which the valve should be installed. The length of such a device is calculated taking into account the distance from the stern of the vehicle to the bow.
Then you need to glue the manufactured tube to the surface of the bottom in the inside of the boat in the place for the keel. This may require PVC strips.
After this, mustard solution is poured into the pipe, which will ensure the required level of tightness. Before pouring, this solution must be shaken well.
It is necessary to take the vehicle into shallow water and bleed the air from the keel.

If you need to strengthen an existing keel, you can glue PVC tape over the factory tape.

Strengthening cylinders

Strengthening the cylinders increases the likelihood of swimming to shore without capsizing the boat and losing all its contents. These elements are under constant pressure from the air flow from the inside and compensatory water pressure from the outside. All these factors lead to premature wear of the mechanism. It can be strengthened using PVC tape. It is attached to the bottom and sides of the cylinder.

In order to properly strengthen the cylinders, you must perform the following steps:

Buy special PVC rests or make them yourself. In stores you can find a stop for the size of a boat of any modification. And for self-made You will need waterproof material from which you need to cut a piece that matches the size of the cylinder.
Before gluing, you need to degrease the working surface with a special solution or alcohol. It is recommended to use PVC glue for connection.
After completing all work on upgrading the cylinders, you need to let the glue dry for 2-3 days.

You can also install a side rest, which will protect the outer part of the cylinders during mooring or when colliding with various obstacles. If such a halt is equipped with a splash guard, then the cylinders will be protected from the back wave. The size of such an element can be from ¼ to ¾ the length of the entire cylinder. In some cases, it may be necessary to install stringers, because On many boats, the bow balloon has curved contours.

Making anchor fastening

Accessories for tuning PVC boats include anchor fastening. The weight of this element must be at least 10% of the mass of the entire vessel and no more than 1% of its length. When making it, the following points must be taken into account:

Maximum wave height in those reservoirs where fishing takes place.
Greatest wind force.
The nature of the bottom of the boat.
The strength of the cable that will be used for the anchor. It must be taken into account that it will be subjected to heavy loads: the greater the weight of the vessel, the greater the amount of force the cable must be designed for.

To make a PVC boat anchor with your own hands, you will need the following elements:

metal pipe with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of 270 mm;
fasteners;
4 metal pieces;
2 metal rings.

A sleeve must be attached to the tube. The stripes will be used as paws. All elements are fastened together using nuts and screws. In order not to lose the anchor, it is necessary to attach a buoy to the cable. In this case, the fisherman will always know where he threw the anchor.

In order to make this mechanism heavier, lead can be poured into a metal tube.

It is necessary to select a design in accordance with the reservoir where fishing takes place. The mechanism must hold the boat securely in one place and be easy to remove from its hooks.

Spinning rod holders

For a large number of spinning rods, boat tuning is done in the form of installing various holders. They can be connected to the ship’s hull using elements such as:

bolts;
screws;
clamps;
glue.

For boats from PVC material A targa equipped with several glasses or a holder with a clamp will do.

The process of making a boat targa:

You need to take a plastic or metal tube, the diameter of which will exceed the diameter of the rod by 0.7-1 cm. You need to bend an arc from it along the width of the swimming device.
The pipe should be flattened at both ends and holes drilled for the mounting bolts.
Part of the pipe must be cut into glasses, on one side of which plugs must be welded.
Glasses are welded onto the arc.
At the end, the entire structure is sanded and coated with waterproof paint.

Making a holder in the form of a clamp:

You need to make a clamp from an old meat grinder by cutting off the top part of it.
Then you need to drill several holes in the meat grinder body, which will be used as holder stands.
3 holes should be made in the pipe. The third should be located at the top.
The made rack from a flattened pipe and a clamp should be connected using bolts and washers.
You need to attach a plumbing clamp to the top hole.

Seat installation

In order to install a swivel type seat, you should make markings and determine the dimensions. Then mount special holders for stands on the cylinders. After installing these elements, you can begin installing the rotating mechanism. The seat itself is secured with 3-4 nuts and studs. Recommended installation method soft seats- belt. In this case, it will be fixed using 2 strong straps.

To make an inflatable chair for a PVC boat, you will need the following materials:

waterproof fabric;
tape for connecting joints;
waterproof glue for gluing seams;
polyamide threads;
scissors;
poster sheets.

It is necessary to measure the parameters of the seat and make a pattern. Then transfer it to the fabric and cut it out with scissors. The finished elements need to be rolled into a tube and sewn along the edges using polyamide threads. Then you can proceed to gluing the joints both from the inside and from the outside. A valve for pumping air should be placed in the lower cylinder. All parts are assembled into an upper and lower block, and then docked together. In order to check the tightness of the finished inflatable chair, it is necessary to place the structure in water.

Attachment Fasteners

Liktros for PVC boats is used for fixing mobile seats, blocks for fishing rods, a removable table, inflatable cylinders to a rigid hull, etc.

To make such fasteners for a PVC boat with your own hands, you will need a special waterproof fabric with a density of 750 g/m². For gluing you need to cut a strip 120 mm wide; The length is selected depending on the requirements. You need to apply glue to the board, let it dry, and then heat it with a hairdryer. After this, you can attach the rail, align everything and remove the folds. All seams must be smoothed out carefully. Excess glue is removed using a rag soaked in solvent.

As a fastening for the gas tank, you can use a rope passed through the half rings. The rings must be glued to the bottom using waterproof glue. Instead of rings, you can use slings or screws.

The very popular concept of “tuning” fascinates many just by its name. One immediately gets the impression that after tuning the watercraft will become more convenient, more expensive, more presentable - in general, it will definitely become “cooler”. In fact, tuning is the modernization or modification of the production equipment or properties of the unit to suit your own needs and wishes. Before you get started, you should decide which improvements are needed and which are not. Such restrictions are dictated solely by practice. The watercraft has weight, and all the tuning parts add it. This affects the speed, engine power, carrying capacity, landing depth and other ease of use of the craft.

The undeniable advantage of modern tuning for PVC boats is that many parts, attachments, fasteners and such necessary little things are bought in special or simply hardware stores. They do not need to be invented and made from improvised means.

Boat configurations from manufacturers often do not meet customer expectations in terms of comfort, functionality and safety. But this is quite forgivable, since everyone has their own goals, objectives and concepts of comfort. After all, almost every thing, from your favorite chair to a car, needs to be adapted “to suit you.”

Popular improvement goals:

Wear resistance. This parameter is very clear. When you buy a fairly expensive thing, for recreation, work or a hobby, you want it to last a long time and not cause inconvenience frequent repairs and difficult maintenance.
Comfort and appearance.
Safety of equipment and passengers.

The last two points include manipulations to strengthen the structure, insurance, install additional equipment and take care of passenger comfort.

Tuning a PVC boat to increase wear resistance

Increased reliability, wear resistance and stability are achieved through strengthening the structure of the bottom and sides of the vessel. There are two approaches to strengthening the bottom of a PVC boat. You can strengthen the parts separately or use a fender beam for the bottom as a whole. That is, take a wide tape and seal it completely. Moreover, this will not affect the running characteristics of the craft in any way. True, you will have to remove the installed redans and put them on top of the reinforcement. The only downside is that it is more difficult to apply a wide tape than several narrow ones. But with care, accuracy and the correct selection of glue, this can be done perfectly on your own.

Bottom reinforcement

If you start modernization from the bottom, then it is worth considering several useful works: strengthening the keel, cylinders, transom, etc. Strength is added to the bottom itself using a special PVC tape (fender). This is a very relevant procedure for a soft bottom. After all, when throwing spinning rods, hooking and moving around the boat on the water, you often have to make sudden movements, which does not help maintain balance and can end in ruined fishing due to falling into the water. And after strengthening, the bottom becomes harder, but does not lose elasticity.

The second reason to strengthen the bottom will be the danger of running into a snag. Sharp and thick branches or stones may not be noticed when the boat is moving, especially in still, murky water. When hitting an obstacle with a reinforced bottom, there is a chance of damaging only the additional layer and only repairing it. This will save time on repairs, the contents of your wallet, and will allow you to continue fishing even after an accident.

Keel reinforcement

Keel reinforcement refers to gluing PVC tape over the factory tape on the keel. Keelsons are also strengthened. This adds strength and rigidity.

Strengthening cylinders

The integrity of the property, and sometimes the life of the fisherman, directly depends on the strength of the cylinders. Reinforced cylinders make it possible to reach the shore on a boat dry while preserving all its contents. The cylinders are constantly under stress from the air pressure inside and compensatory water pressure from below, which leads to increased wear of this part of the vessel structure. Reinforcing the cylinders using the same PVC tape will add not only strength, but also rigidity to the shape of the cylinder. The tape is pasted on the bottom (sometimes additionally on the side) side of the cylinder.

Transom reinforcement

It is simply necessary to strengthen the transom, because it is protected by only one layer of PVC fabric. When moving at high speed, this part plunges deepest into the water and has every chance of catching an obstacle. And when strengthening other elements, it is necessary to give it additional rigidity to preserve the frame structure of the bottom.

Installation of stringers

Stringers are installed if there is something hard in the boat. In fact, the stringer is a piece of duralumin profile, straight and rigid, so it is not installed on the bow curves. The purpose of this procedure is to save PVC fabric from abrasion and the formation of holes due to friction when the vessel is deformed during sailing. Hard floor edges touch the inflatable elements and may compromise the strength.

Sealing seams

This is often necessary when purchasing fairly cheap and weak boat models. The PVC fabric itself is a very reliable and airtight material, but the seams during assembly should be additionally sealed if there are concerns about reliability or large loads are expected, such as transporting several people with luggage.

Tuning PVC boats to improve the safety of people and equipment

Self-attachment of the fender beam

The fender is PVC tape, with a width of 60-235 mm and a thickness of 1.2-3 mm. It is attached to the bottom and other parts using two-component adhesive. Its independent use to strengthen the boat can be divided into several stages:

Freeing the surface from dirt, moisture, all liquid and solid deposits. All oily stains should be removed especially carefully.
Drying the surface to be treated.
Degreasing. It is necessary to carefully treat not only the boat surface, but also the tape with gasoline or acetone. This is necessary for high-quality gluing of materials.
Applying glue. The glue is applied with a brush to the PVC fabric and timber.
Drying. It takes about 15 minutes to dry the first layer, until the moment when it no longer remains on your hands when touched.
Applying a second layer of glue. Both surfaces are also coated a second time.
Drying. Again, the glue layer dries until it thickens. But it is important both times to dry the glue not until it is completely dry, but only until the viscosity increases.
Connection of bonded surfaces. A strip of timber is placed on the boat and pressed down with force. For a more durable connection or when working in cool weather, it is recommended to use a hair dryer to heat the materials being glued. Just be sure to heat the surfaces with caution and under constant supervision to prevent the plastic from melting. If the work takes place in a very warm room with a temperature above 35 degrees Celsius or outdoors under the sun, then heating may not be necessary. It is quite simple to determine this; if the surface of the vessel and the beam are heated so much that they seem hot to the touch, then a hairdryer is not needed, just press the parts to be glued together firmly and hold for the time specified in the instructions for the glue.

Transfers to the boat

Redans are PVC elements that have different shape and glued to the bottom of the boat. With their help, the stability of the craft is achieved when turning and when moving with a standing passenger. Redans change the direction of water flow under the bottom, breaking it into dense streams, which help to better maintain course and partially prevent skidding when turning.

Anchor

An anchor for boats is not always necessary, but if stops are planned, both in still water and in the current, then you cannot do without it. Invaluable if you want to sit quietly with a fishing rod without the splash of oars or turning on the motor, which will scare away the fish. Although with an anchor it is good and easy to sunbathe on the surface of the water, without fear that the boat will be carried away by the wind or current.

Transom

A transom is required for boats with a motor. There are models where it is included in the basic package. Although the design is simple, you can do it yourself. It is attached to the seat or hard floor. In fact, the transom is a support for the motor, so it must withstand good loads and be durable. The height of the transom is determined by the model of the motor, so it is worth doing this after purchasing the motor or taking this into account when purchasing.

On PVC boats, it is almost necessary to reinforce the transom to prevent abrasion of the fabric. An echo sounder is also installed on it as additional equipment.

Outboard motor insurance

Insuring the motor in this context does not mean filling out paperwork at the insurance company, but securing it through eye rings with a strong rubber or steel cable to the transom. This was invented in order not to lose the motor in the event of hitting an obstacle, raising the bottom, or getting firmly caught in seaweed. In such cases, it is likely that the motor will simply jump off and end up at the bottom - an unpleasant situation.

Fuel tank mount

Additional cans of gasoline, like other heavy luggage, must be firmly lashed to the bottom so that they do not change position when turning or driving. Changing the position of a heavy load leads to tragic consequences in the form of fallen passengers, lost cargo and an overturned boat.

If the floor is hard, then the semi-ring fasteners are screwed to the floor, and you need to make sure that the sharp end does not stick out from the back side. If this happens, the screw is cut into a hole, and the hole is filled with glue or sealant to ensure the safety of the bottom of the craft. Half rings are glued to a soft floor made of PVC fabric.

Tuning a PVC boat to increase comfort and improve appearance

There are special coatings for PVC fabric that allow you to get rid of all abrasions, creases, scratches and other unpleasant aspects of use, that is, they give the vessel the appearance of a new product. They are applied with a brush to a clean, dried and grease-free surface of the entire craft.

Otherwise, the concept of “appearance” is applicable to PVC boats and has a purely practical content; it does not contain exclusively decorative elements designed to please the eye; any improvement entails a change in technical characteristics and ease of use. Each new equipment not only changes its appearance, but also serves a specific purpose.

Spinning rod holders

Spinning rods are held with special ring mounts; they are especially useful when fishing with several at once. It is simply impossible for one person to properly hold multiple rods.

Instead of store-bought special fasteners, PVC pipes from a plumbing store will do; the main thing is to choose the correct diameter of the pipe and secure them firmly in the boat.

Anchor eye

The anchor eye is glued onto the stern to make lowering and raising the anchor easier. The rotating roller is placed lower so that the cable does not damage the fender.

Transom wheels

Controversial device. In fact, they are needed only on those reservoirs where there is a hard, even descent into the water, and there are not many of them. If you are planning a vacation or fishing on a forest lake in the wild without equipped slopes, and you have to carry the boat by hand, then wheels are completely unnecessary. Moreover, they will only get in the way. But on reservoirs equipped with slopes, they will allow you not to waste a lot of effort and will even come in handy.

Inflatable keel

An inflatable keel is useful in boat models that do not have the ability to stay on course on their own. Simple models, which are popularly called “punts,” often wander around when moving and have to be constantly taxied to maintain direction. It takes a lot of attention and sometimes gets in the way.

The only negative is that the bow of the boat lifts up when its length is less than three meters. Therefore, this type of tuning is for longer models.

Seats

For lovers of comfortable sitting, excellent options have been developed in which you can sit comfortably for hours. A soft, waterproof seat with a back will allow you to relax and hold the rod, and sometimes even spin in place, unlike simple hard boards on spacers.

Bag installation

The luggage bag is equipped under the seats or in the bow of the boat as a counterweight to the motor. There are several options with stainless zippers and even completely sealed bags with durable fasteners.

Fasteners

Fastening elements are glued to PVC boats. The very specificity of the material will not allow the use of anything other than glue. Several universal fastening systems are produced that are mounted on PVC fabric, and additional elements are already attached to them.

Fastener "nickel"

So named because of its shape and size. This is a plate with a diameter of 20 mm, which has a flat place for gluing on one side, and “ears” 35 mm high on the other. All equipment is attached to them using bolts and nuts. It really does somewhat resemble an old five-kopeck coin.

FASTen fasteners

This type of fastener compares favorably with the previous one, as it can easily be transformed into any type of fastening and is equipped with a plug that protects it from dirt when not in use. The flat shape also adds convenience, since when closed it is impossible to get caught or scratched.

Awning

Awnings are only installed on boats with a reinforced hard floor, since the weight of the awning and fastenings rests on the floor. There are options for a folding awning, tensioned with stationary fastenings and installed on special “legs” and struts. The first option is always with you and takes up space, but it stretches quickly enough on a pond. The second one is taken with you folded, again taking up space or left on the shore. The third is installed and secured only on the pier, as it is mounted on the shore and placed using the hooks of the platforms under the cylinders.

Awnings have a disadvantage - boats with awnings do not go fast.

Table installation

This device is not very popular, as it is only suitable for standing boats. That is, swim out to the middle of the lake, lay out a table, set out the bait, lounge in a chair and calmly cast a fishing rod. Tables in boats are designed specifically for this type of fishing, since the contents will be thrown off when moving.

The emergence of PVC boats

Boat repair process

Tools for repair

Preparation for repair

Glue needed for repairs

Repairing a cut boat bottom

Repair of damage longer than 7 centimeters

Methods for gluing damaged surfaces

Replacing a faulty boat valve

How to prevent abrasions that occur on a PVC boat

Tuning an inflatable boat.

Fedorych

Fedorych

Fedorych

Fedorych

Fedorych

Fedorych

Strengthening the boat structure

How to glue a fender yourself

Installation of redans

Installation of stringers

Hard floor

Boat anchor

Spinning rod holders

Echo sounder sensor

Transom wheels

Inflatable keel

Seats

Engine insurance

Awning

Table and travel bags

Additional options

Strengthening the bottom

Inflatable keel

Strengthening cylinders

Making anchor fastening

Spinning rod holders

Seat installation

Attachment Fasteners

Tuning a PVC boat to increase wear resistance

Bottom reinforcement

Keel reinforcement

Strengthening cylinders

Transom reinforcement

Installation of stringers

Sealing seams

Tuning PVC boats to improve the safety of people and equipment

Self-attachment of the fender beam

Transfers to the boat

Anchor

Transom

Outboard motor insurance

Fuel tank mount

Tuning a PVC boat to increase comfort and improve appearance

Spinning rod holders

Anchor eye

Transom wheels

Inflatable keel

Seats

Bag installation

Fasteners

Fastener "nickel"

FASTen fasteners

Awning

Table installation

Video: tuning options for PVC boats

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