Antiseptic- impregnation of wood chemicals, preventing rotting.

Sound and mature wood coniferous species poorly impregnated with various solutions, including antiseptics. Possibility of more deep impregnation pine heartwood increases significantly when it is heated to 95 -100° Antiseptics are divided into water-soluble: sodium fluoride and fluorosilicone, sodium pentachlorophenolate, ammonium-copper pentachlorophenolate, etc. (water - antiseptic - dye); oily: anthracene, coal, creosote and shale oil.

Antiseptic pastes are intended for antiseptic wood with a moisture content above 40% (water-soluble pastes are used for wood with a moisture content of no more than 35%). The use of pastes is based on the ability of a water-soluble antiseptic to diffusely penetrate the moisture located in the thickness of the wood. Pastes are extract, clay, bitumen and Kuzbasslak. Three brands of pastes are used: “100”, “200” and “300”. The brand number indicates the amount of sodium fluoride per 1 m2 of wood surface.

Composition of the extract paste: sodium fluoride, sulfate alcohol stillage, peat dust, water.

Composition of bitumen paste: sodium fluoride, bitumen grades III and IV, green oil, peat dust.

The composition of the clay paste: sodium fluoride, liquid clay, sulfate alcohol stillage and water.

Antiseptic treatment is carried out using the following methods: superficial (using a brush or hydraulic remote control), deep (in hot-cold baths).

Dry pine sapwood is easily impregnated with aqueous and organic liquids. But, for example, pentachlordinol is distributed in it with a large gradient, and the solution of sodium pentachlorophenolate stratifies upon penetration and the salt is retained in the surface zone.

In its raw form, pine wood is easily impregnated with many water-soluble protective agents due to their diffusion into the material. The following is a classification of wood according to impregnability:

Easy to impregnate: Birch, beech and pine sapwood

Moderately impregnated: Cedar, alder, aspen; sapwood of hornbeam, oak, maple, linden and European larch; pine kernel

Difficult to soak: Spruce, Siberian larch, fir; Kernels of birch, beech, elm, oak, European larch and ash

For canning raw wood With the expectation of subsequent diffuse redistribution of the antiseptic, only highly soluble and easily diffusible antiseptics are recommended - BB-11, BB-32 and KFA. Sodium fluoride, due to its low solubility, cannot always provide the necessary parameters for protecting wood.

The issue of wood protection in the USSR is successfully dealt with by the Senezh Wood Preservation Laboratory of TsNIIMOD, the Institute of Forest and Wood named after. V. N. Sukachev, USSR Academy of Sciences, Belarusian Technological Institute named after. S. M. Kirova and others. They recommended in Lately for the antiseptic treatment of timber and wooden poles the following preparations: a mixture of sodium fluoride and copper sulfate, copper sulfate in an aqueous solution of ammonia, preparations GR-48, XM-5, etc.

The best way to protect wood from turning blue is to treat it with GR-48, the main part of which consists of ethyl mercuric phosphate, XM-5, consisting of sodium dichromate, copper sulfate and chromic anhydride. The treatment is carried out before natural drying. This preparation is applicable for lumber, and for round timber It is recommended to use carbonic soda, 10% solution of iron sulfate or antiseptic GR-48B.

In the fight against blue and other stains, antiseptics are applied manually or using an ORP type sprayer and a car sprayer.

To protect wood from fire, fire retardants of the BB group (borax and boric acid), XMFT group (XM-11 group, FN, thiourea 2:5:5), XMT (XM-11 group, thiourea 1:5), drugs based on PCPNF; drugs DM, PBB; antiseptic HC, etc. Oily antiseptics increase the flammability of wood.

In the Senezh laboratory of TsNIIMOD, Institute of Forests and Wood named after. Sukachev Academy of Sciences of the USSR and others are testing wood protective agents on samples and models in relation to various species, the characteristics of the tested wooden parts and service conditions. To simulate the given conditions, a sprinkler system, a heat-carrying fence and an accelerated test chamber are used.

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Wood is the most environmentally friendly building material. A wooden building is warm in winter, cool in summer and has a special, healthy microclimate with a self-regulating humidity level. But, this material, like any organic matter, is susceptible to fungi, bacteria, harmful insects and ignites very easily.

Therefore, experts recommend using it as protective agent wood antiseptic.

Types of antiseptics

Antiseptics are water-repellent compounds, designed to protect lumber from microorganisms and insects that feed on wood.

Wood, of course, is best treated with them in advance. However, if it was nevertheless infected, a high-quality drug can stop its further destruction.

Wood antiseptics are divided into four groups according to their composition:

• Water soluble;
• Oil based;
• Based on organic solvents;
• Combined.

Water-soluble compounds are preventive for those structures and wood coverings that do not come into direct contact with moisture.

Solvent-based compositions capable of protecting wood both outside and inside buildings. This antiseptic forms a dense film with good characteristics adhesion and moisture resistance.

Combined formulations in addition to biological protection, they can reduce the flammability of wood, i.e. They also have fire retardant properties.

As a rule, modern wood antiseptics do not have a pronounced odor. In order for the treatment to be of high quality, the composition must be applied in 2-3 layers.

Remember! Do not impregnate frozen or damp wood, as this sharply reduces the absorbency of the antiseptic.

Treating wood with antiseptic

1. A prerequisite before applying the antiseptic is that the wood is clean and dry. To clean the material, you can use a steel scraper and a suitable solvent.


2. First of all, damaged areas should be treated - the ends of the boards, cuts, cuts, etc.
3. Treatment of wood with an antiseptic should occur at a temperature of at least +5º if it is based on a solvent and at least +10º when it is water-soluble.
4. The relative humidity in the room when working with the composition should be at least 80%.
5. The antiseptic can be applied with a brush, roller or spray.

Wood antiseptic can be applied with a brush or roller

Most of these compounds repel but do not kill insect pests. To destroy them, they are made special drugs, usually having an alcohol base. The technique for using such antiseptics is different.

The liquid is poured with a syringe or pipette into the external openings of the passages of beetles and larvae. Then the surface around them is carefully coated.

How to choose the best antiseptic

Among some builders there is an opinion that many antiseptics are an advertising canard: video “The Truth about Antiseptics”

A high-quality antiseptic impregnation for wood should have high toxicity to harmful microorganisms or insects. Based on the level of protective ability, such compositions can be divided into 4 categories:

• ineffective,
• moderately effective,
• effective,
• highly effective.

The preparation must correspond to the level of wood damage. According to this parameter, it can be divided into three groups:

• clean,
• not contaminated lumber,
• having a slightly affected surface,
• heavily infected.

For each of these types you need to purchase a special composition. Also keep in mind that antiseptics are often intended for either internal or external surfaces.

If you need the purchased composition for processing interior spaces, then its packaging must contain an official sanitary and epidemiological conclusion, preferably duplicated by the conclusion of an independent laboratory, about the harmlessness of the solution to humans and domestic animals.

Wood antiseptics intended for impregnation of facades must have good weather resistance.

It is important that the composition is convenient and easy to apply, and if you are going to use any paint material, then be compatible with it.

The best foreign manufacturers of antiseptics

A comparison of wood antiseptics should start with the products of the Danish company Pinotex, which appeared first on Russian market in this area. Many experts consider its products to be the best in Europe. They protect not only from mold, fungi, insects and moisture, but also from sudden temperature changes. This allows the use of Pinotex compositions outside buildings.

The famous Finnish company Tikkurila, in addition to paints and varnishes, also produces high-quality antiseptic compositions. They can be used to process both external walls and fences, as well as wooden structures.

The Slovenian company Belinka Base produces best antiseptics for wood deep penetration. These are colorless primers containing biocides, the purpose of which is to preventively protect wood from blue stains, fungi and harmful insects.

Russian antiseptics

Antiseptics from Senezh

Among Russian companies, Senezh was the first to reach the international level and receive the appropriate quality certificate (ISO 9001). Its Senezh Ecobio antiseptics provide increased biological protection of wood. Can be used independently or as a primer for painting.

"The Tree Doctor"

The worst enemy of wood is white house fungi, which imitate ordinary mold. Until recently, it was not possible to effectively combat them. But such an antiseptic for wood has also appeared: customer reviews indicate that the domestic company “Wood Doctor” has developed drugs that can solve this problem.

"Neomid"

Another one Russian company Neomid differs from other manufacturers in that it sells antiseptics in concentrated form, and this significantly reduces their cost. Its compositions are produced in compact packages, like a dry mixture.
For initial treatment, the best wood preservative is Neomid 46-bio, as well as Neomid 440.

Video about antiseptic from the Neomid company:

Wood is one of the most inexpensive and easiest to use building materials, due to which lumber is most popular in private construction. But besides positive qualities, wood also has disadvantages, such as: susceptibility to rot, destruction due to mold or insects, and the possibility of fire. Treating the wood with an antiseptic will help solve these problems, allowing you to significantly extend the service life of this material.

What elements of a house or apartment should be treated?

The risk group includes wooden elements located in direct contact with the soil, foundation, building walls and an environment with a high level of humidity, which means antiseptic treatment will be required for the following elements:

• parts of a wooden supporting frame;
• flooring, joists;
• wall partitions, interfloor and ceilings;
• lower crowns of log buildings;
• any other hidden wood elements;

How to choose a good antiseptic?

Available on the market a large number of antibacterial chemical products different actions, different from each other in composition. In general, all antiseptics can be divided into three groups:

• funds for water based;
• oil-based products;
• combined mixtures based on modern chemical compounds;

The most popular wood treatment product is water-based, since in addition to killing mold and insects, such compositions provide reliable fire protection. Also, all protective chemicals can be divided into compositions for impregnation or coating of wood. Impregnation penetrates as deeply as possible into solid wood, providing a high level of antibacterial protection, while application products create protective layer, protecting the surface of the material from contact with water and dampness.

For a more reliable effect, it is worth using impregnating and coating substances together, or giving preference to antiseptics mixed type, combining both of these effects. Before purchasing, you should carefully study the instructions for the antiseptic and fire-retardant wood treatment products and find out how the effects of the drugs meet your needs.

How to treat wood with an antiseptic yourself

Preparatory work is the key to success

Wood processing, regardless of whether it is planed timber or an ordinary log for a log house, is carried out only if the wood has the required level of humidity corresponding to the numbers indicated on the packaging of the antiseptic. Before you start treating wood with an antiseptic, it is necessary to carry out all drilling and sawing work, since the preparations act on the surface of the wood and all fresh chips and cuts that appear after treatment will become potential sources of mold and mildew. It is also extremely important to clean the surface of the wood from possible contaminants and degrease the surface, which can be done using special chemicals.

Processing technology

After everything has been done preparatory work, you can start processing the wood. Processing technology depends on the means and capabilities available to you. Most effective way is to soak the wood in a diluted preparation, however, this option will require large expenses and at home it is almost impossible to treat massive elements such as rafters and floor joists using this method. The second method involves applying an antiseptic to the surface of the wood using a regular brush or roller. The antiseptic must be applied evenly, painting the entire surface of the wood. Processing is carried out in several layers, usually 2 to 4-5 layers are required, more detailed information can be found in the instructions included with the chemical you have chosen.

After antiseptic and fire protective treatment wood, the material must dry in natural conditions, in a dry, ventilated hanging or outdoors under a canopy. For drying, depending on the chosen composition and the number of layers applied, 48 to 72 hours will be enough, after which the elements are ready for use. Do-it-yourself antiseptic treatment is a fairly simple process, which, however, will require attention and concentration.

It must be remembered that some antiseptics can be toxic and when working with them, precautions must be taken. Before you start processing wooden house read the instructions included with the drug. After application and drying of the wood, the chemicals disappear and the treated lumber becomes completely safe.

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Discussion:

I recently finished building a bathhouse on my site. The outside of the tree was treated with an antiseptic. Interior work I'm almost done, but the problem is the following. Some craftsmen say that it is necessary to treat the lining inside before use. Tell me how to open a new wooden carriage from a linden tree in a bathhouse, what means and what its name is. And does it need to be treated with anything at all?

Wood processing turned out to be a sore subject for me. We were in a hurry to install the roof and skipped this process. After a while, strange sounds appeared under the roof.
It turned out that there was a bug. By the look white worm small size. I bought a powder consisting of 4 components. Divorces with water. It protects the wood not only from bugs, but also makes the tree fireproof. But now it’s inconvenient to process, you need to climb under the roof.

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Wood is protected from air humidity by special coatings or impregnations with antiseptic and (or) fire retardant effects.

Wood buildings are known to be aesthetically pleasing, environmentally friendly and have a number of advantages. However, wood is a natural material, and therefore is susceptible to harmful biofactors, namely rotting.

The process of wood rotting begins in conditions high temperature and humidity (air and wood itself), the tree is affected by fungus. In order to remove excess moisture from the material, fresh wood is kept for drying before starting construction for at least a year under cover from the sun and precipitation.

Helpful information:

The wood then continues to dry naturally in the erected structures, usually for several years. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure air circulation near the building and not block it from other buildings and vegetation.

A waterproof roof protects the top of the wall from the effects of rain. Wooden buildings should not come into contact with wet soil. To avoid this, take special measures To carry out waterproofing, layers of protective materials are laid. The foundation is placed so that wooden building was above ground level. Construction of a drainage device is mandatory groundwater and blind areas.

How does the antiseptic composition work?

Antiseptic stops development different types mold and wood-destroying fungi, larvae of wood-boring beetles. Solutions are applied to wood in two or three steps with a brush or spray, with breaks. If technically possible, impregnate the material by immersion. The most effective method is pressure impregnation, when the antiseptic penetrates the entire depth of the wood.

They also impregnate wood with an antiseptic for preventive purposes, without waiting for rotting to begin, even if the wood is lined with another material, for example, siding. It is better to perform this operation on wooden parts structures before construction begins. But you can also process finished design, only for this you need to wait for stable, clear, dry weather.

Review of drugs

To do this, it is better to use the antiseptic impregnating composition “Wood Healer”, which has six varieties - from the composition for healthy wood to the composition for heavily damaged material.

If you wish, you can manually prepare a Finnish or Swedish composition for coating wood, which is based on rye flour and iron sulfate. You can use ready-made drugs, which, along with antiseptic properties, also have a fire retardant effect for wood - fire retardants. For example, Antibiokor-S, VIM-1, Pirilax, Senezh Bio and Senezh Ognebio. Read how to choose wood impregnation.

Only drugs that are safe for humans and do not emit odor are used, for example, modern polymer-based antiseptics - Bitsidol-200. Besides polymer base of such coatings increases their resistance to washout.

Antiseptics can be colored and additionally give the wood some shade or imitate valuable species tree. For example, the drug "Bioks" is produced with a colorless, honey, nutty tint.

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In the fight against motley harmful microflora and hordes of insects that can destroy the most durable wooden beams, special interest, as a rule, is manifested in the choice of antiseptic. The method of applying the drug is ignored. But in reality, the combination of the quality of the antiseptic and a successful processing method are the key to one hundred percent success in exterminating pests and guarantee minimum consumption material.

Choosing a DIY wood processing method

Almost always, antiseptic manufacturers give the same type of recommendations regarding the application of the drug and best technique wood processing. Typically processing is done in one of the following ways:

• Applying an aqueous solution with a brush or foam paint roller;
• Using a balloon or backpack sprayer used to treat plants;
• Using injections to a depth of penetration into the wood of at least 70% of the thickness of the timber;
• Soaking wooden structure or its individual elements in solution.

Advice! Any of the listed methods is focused on the minimum consumption of antiseptic per m2 of wood, but these calculations are made for ideal conditions processing, therefore practical consumption is most often increased by 1.5 times.

The best DIY wood processing options

Industrial antiseptics are almost always sold in the form of a concentrate or powder, from which five or ten times the volume of a solution can be prepared. For example, from a liter of Prosept Exterior concentrate it is possible to prepare 20 liters of an antiseptic solution. Besides, it's profitable. From a five-liter canister that costs just over a thousand rubles you can get almost 100 liters of a working antiseptic solution. A standard consumption of 0.3 liters per m2 for one treatment of a liter of concentrate will provide the ability to process solid wood with an area of ​​60 m2. The canister will be enough for three treatments outer surface small country house with a wall area of ​​90-100 m2 or one-time processing of all wood structures in the usual country house, area 70-80 m2.

Thus, protective treatment of a “fresh” wood surface will require two or three times of coating with an antiseptic. To obtain guaranteed protection, a total of a little more than 500 ml of solution will be consumed per m2. This is the total consumption of antiseptic. During the first treatment, the consumption will be maximum, during subsequent treatments it will decrease by 20-30%.

Technology for processing wood affected by bark beetle

The most serious problem has always been the treatment of those already “sick” with shashel rafter beams, lags or ceiling made of logs, thick timber or boards. If wood contaminated with wood-boring beetle larvae was used during construction, the problem can only be identified many months later, when the construction is completed, and it is almost impossible to redo the structure of the building.

The procedure for treating diseased wood requires painstaking execution of several operations:

1. Based on the sound and crumbling shavings, with our own hands we will mark with a marker on the surface of the wood the places where the shashel larvae may be located and which will require maximum quantity antiseptic;
2. Thin and long drill we cut deep channels in solid wood to a depth of at least a third of the beam diameter in places where passages or a specific pattern from the work of the larvae are found. If possible, drilling should be done under the most different angles to the surface to the maximum achievable depth;
3. In case of a large volume of damage, the surface of the wood is treated with a stiff brush with steel bristles in order to remove dust, dirt, and paint residues that can interfere with the absorption of the antiseptic solution. This procedure also increases the number of scratches and marks on the wood, which improves moisture absorption;
4. On next stage foam roller carefully roll the prepared antiseptic onto the tree. Using a large syringe with a needle, inject the diluted solution into the drilled holes. If you have to work with a ceiling or vertical surfaces, the exit hole, after treatment with an antiseptic, is better to seal with a piece of plasticine.

Attention! Drilling has virtually no effect on the strength of the beam, if you have any doubts, after treating the wood with an antiseptic and completely dry holes can be sealed with a mixture of PVA and wood dust.

It is better to carry out processing in warm weather and good ventilation of the room. Almost always, within an hour after treatment, the larvae and adult beetles try to leave the wood with an antiseptic. Sometimes it is useful to observe the “evacuation” process to identify missed spots or areas that need to be treated more thoroughly.

When inspecting wood, before reapplying the solution, experts recommend piercing upper layer tree on maximum depth with a sharp shoe awl. This will reveal hidden passages and cavities from insects and significantly improves the absorption of the solution into solid wood, but the consumption of antiseptic will increase. An injection with a sharp needle is made to a maximum depth of 5-10 mm in a checkerboard pattern every 1-2 cm.

Treatment of wood against fungus and rot

Infection of wood with bacterial and viral microflora is always associated with prolonged contact of the board or wooden beam with soil and groundwater. In half of the cases, infection occurs during improper storage of lumber on the ground, long before its intended use. The ideal environment for the spread of fungal spores is warmth and high humidity. Sometimes the fungus spreads through contact with rotting plant matter; the end surface of a board or timber is considered especially vulnerable. Such an infected board can be easily identified in total mass along the blued edges of the wood. In the case where lumber is used for outdoors, in conditions of close contact with the soil, it is recommended to use an antiseptic based on organic solvents Tikkuril or Pinotex. Treatment with these antiseptics is more similar to painting.

Advice! There is always a reason not to limit yourself to high-quality waterproofing and surface treatment, but to treat the ends with an antiseptic and “caulk” them with a light hammer.

Moreover, the depth of penetration of moisture of the antiseptic solution into the wood through the open untreated end is 3-4 times greater than through the side surface.

Almost always wood good quality undergoes transport treatment with an antiseptic. The validity period of such treatment, as a rule, does not exceed 7-8 months, subject to storage conditions during transportation.

Before use, lumber or finished wood assemblies should be coated with a full-fledged preservative antiseptic. Therefore, having bought boards or timber, the first thing you should do is choose a dry and cool place to store the wood, and at the same time examine the condition of the ends.

The first treatment technique resembles coloring and is performed according to the same rules. If the surface of the board is smooth, it is advisable to treat it with a brush or coarse sandpaper. When applying an antiseptic with a brush or roller, a solid, 0.2-0.5 mm thick layer of the drug is formed on such a surface. The consumption of the drug per m2 increases by approximately 15%, but at the same time the depth of penetration into the wood approximately doubles.

During the first treatment, the problem of poor surface wetting may occur. To make the antiseptic absorb more easily, before applying wooden surface moisturize clean water with a small amount of laundry soap.

The method of applying antiseptic using garden sprayer. In addition to the obvious convenience when using a sprayer, the consumption of antiseptic per m 2 of surface is also reduced by 5-10%. In this case, you can easily process any wood structures that are inaccessible to work with a brush, for example, rafters and roof joists. In addition, the sprayer is indispensable if you have to treat a rough and unplaned surface with an antiseptic.

The second treatment begins after the surface has dried almost completely. Most antiseptics have a certain shade, green or dark yellow, which makes it easy to see gaps and distinguish a treated board from an untreated one.

Advice! Carefully read the instructions and instructions for using the antiseptic.

Not all aqueous solutions, especially expensive drugs, are equally safe in liquid and dried states.

Conclusion

The vast majority of water-based formulations contain fluorosilico salts, which are considered a targeted poison for lower biological forms. They are safe for humans and animals. But, in addition to them, the composition necessarily includes compounds of iron, copper and chromium, which can cause severe irritation and even inflammation on the skin. If you have any suspicions about negative impact drug, look at the GOST for wood preservatives for more detailed information about substances used as antiseptics.