Covering walls with plasterboard for leveling and preparing for finishing is increasingly replacing traditional starting plaster. This is what drywall was invented for: its synonym, as you know, is dry plaster. Leveling walls with plasterboard is, firstly, much simpler and cheaper plastering works the old fashioned way. Especially wooden walls: to plaster wood using the Old Testament method, you must first apply glassine to the wall, then felt soaked in liquid clay mortar and a 2-level sheathing of shingles. Secondly, the most experienced plasterer, working with a falcon and a trowel, will not create a plaster layer that is smoother than 3 mm/m. The plaster itself, when drying out, will give more unevenness, because... applied in spots. Meanwhile, for many modern methods of decorative wall finishing, 3 mm/m is the limit.

Sheathing with plasterboard allows you to bring the wall up to a general unevenness of 2 mm between the diagonal corners. Besides, plasterboard sheathing has a mark in front of solid plaster. advantages:

• Hygienic and hypoallergenic - does not create dust and does not get dirty.
• Improves the heat and sound insulation of housing.
• “Breathes”, i.e. absorbs excess water vapor from the air and releases it when there is a deficiency; this is especially important in an apartment made of reinforced concrete or sand-lime brick. The breathing of drywall is not as deep and even as wood, but still not stone.

There are only 2 disadvantages to leveling walls with plasterboard, but they are quite serious.

The first is fragility.. If on plastered in the usual way the wall will be at the corner of the furniture; there may be a pothole, which is easy to repair. If a stumbled or slipped person presses his body against such a wall, nothing will happen to it at all. In both cases, drywall is at risk of breaking and cracking.

The second is poor accessibility of hidden communications. If in regular wall If a pipe leaks or the wiring burns out, the matter will be dealt with with a groove, which is subsequently sealed. If there is an accident behind the drywall, you will have to remove at least one slab, ruining finishing until it needs to be completely replaced.

Taking into account all these circumstances, the question needs to be resolved: or drywall. In modern budget and mid-level housing, the result is most often in favor of the latter due to the low cost and ease of work. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give the reader as complete an idea as possible of how to sheathe and level walls with plasterboard with your own hands, because covering a room with it approx. 12 sq. m by hired craftsmen costs somewhere from 30 thousand rubles, the popularity of the material affects pricing.

Material

Drywall is a pressed mass of cellulose filler with a gypsum binder, covered with a protective paper layer. It is produced in sheets (gypsum plasterboard), up to 16 mm thick, and slabs (gypsum plasterboard) up to 32 mm thick. For cladding walls and ceilings, regular gypsum plasterboards, moisture-resistant green gypsum plasterboards, fire-resistant gypsum plasterboards in red or orange, and fire-moisture resistant gypsum plasterboards in green with a red stripe are used.

GKLO and GKLVO are used for finishing wooden buildings, because in case of fire, they delay the spread of flames for a time sufficient to evacuate people. All types of gypsum plasterboards and gypsum boards are intended only for internal use, because cannot withstand prolonged exposure to outdoor conditions. GKV racks in rooms with high humidity and occasional spraying (bathroom/WC, hallway, basement, garage), but not under rain and wind.

The parameters of the most commonly used standard sizes of gypsum boards are given in the table, but in trade practice they are often divided more simply: into arched ones with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, ceiling ones with a thickness of 9.5 mm and wall ones with a thickness of 12.5 mm (all - including paper covering). Arched drywall designed for the production of volumetric decorative designs, but can also find auxiliary use when covering walls, see below. Ceiling gypsum plasterboards of lighter weight, as the name implies, are sheathed on ceilings.

Basic cladding methods

Wall finishing with plasterboard can be done framed (over lathing), frameless with glue, or combined. The latter is equivalent in all properties and qualities to frameless, so they are often not separated. The advantage of frameless gypsum board cladding is the extreme simplicity and low cost of work. It also has less impact on the fragility of drywall due to its larger adhesion area to the load-bearing (base) wall. The disadvantage is that the stability of the entire cladding depends on the condition of the base wall: if it gets wet or otherwise loses its surface strength, a sudden collapse of the entire cladding is possible at once. Also, you can’t put gypsum boards on glue wooden walls. In principle, it is possible that adhesives such as aquarium silicone or Moment-gel hold gypsum plasterboard on wood equally well and never show spots on the sheathing. But the cost of finishing will be such that mahogany lining is unlikely to cost more. Therefore, further attention will be paid to gypsum board sheathing on the frame, as it is more expensive, but reliable and allows for insulation of the room from the inside.

Note: Some consider an additional advantage of gypsum board sheathing on the frame to be that it can be done without stripping the base wall, i.e. By old plaster and wallpaper. But, firstly, this cannot be done for sanitary and hygienic reasons. Secondly, without a technical assessment of the condition of the main load-bearing surface, there can be no confidence in the reliability of the entire skin.

GKL on a frame

The technology of cladding gypsum board walls on a frame is based on the use of thin-walled galvanized steel profiles. Wooden sheathing has now completely outlived its usefulness, even on partitions in heated rooms: due to thermal deformations and warping of the wood, cracks creep along it after 3-4 years. GKL sheathing on a wooden frame is suitable for small elements of volumetric structures, sheathed in pieces without seams. GKL sheathing steel frame includes the following. stages of work:

1. Preparation of the wall and existing communications;
2. Selection of frame design, profiles and fasteners to it;
3. Roughness measurement load-bearing wall, marking for the frame, cutting and cutting gypsum boards;
4. Frame installation;
5. Attaching the gypsum board to the frame;
6. Grouting;
7. Installation of skirting boards covering gaps.

Wall

GKL must be removed from the wall under the cladding old finishing. Electrical wiring is laid in grooves; the pipes are surrounded by a frame using crossbars (see below), because It is unacceptable to make slots for communications in the frame profiles.

Profiles

To cover the wall you will need profiles of the standard sizes shown in Fig. Sometimes the so-called hat profile (see below). Shaped finishing profiles are most often used for cladding gypsum board slopes, but this is a special issue, much more complex than cladding walls; craftsmen charge $30-$100 for 1 slope, depending on its size and complexity.

Note: PS rack profiles are sometimes called wall profiles, and PN guides are sometimes called wall profiles.

Frames

Typical scheme for covering a gypsum board wall on a frame made of PN, PNP and PS profiles shown on the next page. rice. Suitable for most types of stone walls, also in a wooden house made of laminated veneer lumber, because it practically does not warp or “play” due to temperature changes. Suitable for internal insulation and double skinning (see also at the end). Using standard lathing, you can sheathe the walls of the GKP.

Sheathing on flat profiles(see next figure) is much cheaper than the standard one, but is only permissible in dry, heated rooms. For wooden laths you need to use seasoned timber 75x50, chamber dried. If the general unevenness of the wall is up to 10 mm, and the local unevenness is up to 3 mm/m, the flat profiles can be attached directly to the wall (see also below, about fasteners for the frame). Sheathing along flat profiles is possible using scraps or pieces of gypsum boards staggered, as well as horizontally oriented sheets. This can be significant if the height of the room (for example, 3.6 or 2.4 m) does not fit well with the length of the gypsum board sheets. It is not recommended to do double cladding on flat profiles.

Finally, there may be a case when the thickness of the skin together with the frame is required to be minimal, for example, in cramped spaces. Then it is possible to carry out the lathing for gypsum boards only from ceiling profiles(next fig.), but double and single gypsum plasterboards with a thickness of over 14 mm and gypsum plasterboard frames will not withstand ceiling profiles. The recommended thickness of gypsum plasterboard for installation on a frame made of ceiling profiles is up to 10 mm. The same type of frame can also be assembled only from PS profiles, but it will turn out to be just as weak, but of full standard thickness.

Note: sealing and damping tape in all cases - made of microporous rubber or similar material 4-6 mm thick.

Fasteners

There is a wide range of fasteners for sale for frames under gypsum boards, but a direct hanger (pos. 1 in the figure below) can be considered universal, especially since straight hangers can be doubled, pos. 2; the “whiskers” sticking out forward are bent to the side. This allows you to mount a frame with the possibility of insulation on walls with potholes/bumps up to 40-50 mm. The mounting feet of straight hangers can be bent back for installation at an exact angle or wooden stand(see below). Direct hangers are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws in propylene dowels with the threaded part entering the wall, at least:

• Concrete – 70 mm.
• From red solid brick– 80 mm.
• From silicate and red hollow bricks – 90 mm.
• Wooden – 100 mm.
• From foam concrete, aerated concrete, PHB - 120 mm.

It is unlikely that any frame for gypsum plasterboard will do without crossbars to bypass openings, communications and assemble additional load-bearing beams at the joints of sheet chords. The cross members are cut from the same profile as the vertical posts of the frame. For mounting them, there are corner hangers on sale, but most craftsmen do without additional fasteners. If you cut through the corners of the profile, as in pos. 3a, then we get 3 mounting paws, pos. 3 b. But it is unacceptable to attach the cross members to the racks with an overlay (pos. 3c) in loaded structures: the screw heads will become sources of dangerous local stresses in the casing. Sometimes the middle leg is cut out (pos. 3c), the side ones are bent, and the crossbars are attached flush, but the knot turns out to be rather weak. It would be correct to trim the middle paw and place it on top of the vertical post, pos. 4. When installing the skin, a self-tapping screw will cut into it, the sheet of skin will be pressed, and the entire fastening unit will be very reliable.

What to fasten with?

Since we had to touch on the issues of assembling the frame and fastening the sheathing ahead of time, it must be said that the frame is assembled using LN9 metal self-tapping screws (with a press washer head), and the gypsum board is attached to the frame with TN25 self-tapping screws. The head of the latter is not conical! It smoothly transitions into the body of the propeller! If you attach gypsum boards with screws with tapered heads, the sheathing will not last long, see also below. Installation holes for self-tapping screws are punched in advance with a special profile cutter, see fig. If you simply drill them, then a skirt will not form for threading, and the screws will not hold at all.

Marking for the frame

By cleaning the wall with a long, even strip - the rule (emphasis on the “and”) - is to determine its overall unevenness; The choice of frame layout may need to be changed. Then find the height of the most protruding mound. After that on the ceiling beat off a line perpendicular to the adjacent walls and separated from the level of the top of the highest hillock of the wall being sheathed by at least 20-30 mm. From this line, another line is drawn along a plumb line on the floor; In this way, the alignment of frame parts is greatly simplified.

Next, starting from the corner along a plumb line, vertical lines are struck in increments of 600 mm so that they fall exactly on the joints of the sheets. It is also necessary to take into account that gypsum board sheets should be 20-30 mm away from adjacent walls, floors and ceilings. That is, the first line is marked at 620-630 m from the corner, the next at 1220-1230 mm, etc. The last line should be the same 20-30 mm from the final corner plus half the installation width of the profile, i.e. by 80-90 mm.

The next step is to make a mark on the vertical lines 80-90 mm from the floor and the next in increments of 600 mm until less than 600 mm remains to the ceiling. Then the last vertical marks are also made 80-90 mm from the ceiling. A direct suspension is applied to the vertical marks in turn and the places for drilling holes for self-tapping screws in the wall are marked. If there are not enough standard sheets in height for a given room, in a similar way, but now level, mark the wall for installation of crossbars. Don’t forget, the longitudinal axis of the cross member profile should also be at the junction of the slabs of the sheathing chords! That's all for now, you can get distracted by marking and cutting the gypsum boards.

Preparation of gypsum boards

At this stage of the work, you first need to cut the incomplete sheets to size. Cutting gypsum board is simple: cut assembly knife, break in weight, cut from the inside, see fig. below. “From the inside out” is conditional, both layers of gypsum board are the same. Next, chamfers are removed from the edges of the sheets for grouting the joints. To do this you will need a drywall edge plane, see fig. on right. If you have a one-time job for yourself, then it is better to rent it, because... This tool is not suitable for anything else. You need to take a plane for 2 angles - 45 and 22.5 degrees; why - see below, about grouting joints.

Note: cut to size in width the last sheet along the row (belt) needs to be approx. 10 mm narrower than what was measured. The fact is that for thermal deformation of the sheets themselves, you need to give a gap of 1-2 mm between them. On a wall of normal length there will be about that much. You can take this value into account when marking the wall for the frame, but there will be a lot of fuss, and a profile width of 60 mm on a regular wall is enough to compensate for the discrepancy.

The next point is marking and drilling/cutting holes and openings for sockets, lamps, pipes, ventilation, etc. To do this, it is convenient to use a sheet of ordinary packaging cardboard 600 mm wide: it is applied to the wall, pressed over the recesses with the palm of your hand, the contours are outlined with a pencil, cut out and transferred to the gypsum board. Holes in drywall are cut with a pen or compass drill, and rectangular openings are cut with a drywall knife. It is similar to the mounting one, only its blade is thicker and stronger.

Frame assembly

Installation of the frame for gypsum board cladding begins with the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. If adjacent walls are not sheathed, PN profiles are also placed on them to create a solid frame, see fig. on right; connecting its corners - on each side with a TN9 self-tapping screw (so that the head does not protrude). The first attachment points to the floor/ceiling are 60 mm from the edge; the rest - in increments of approx. 300 mm so that the last one is also 60 mm from the other edge.

Next, straight hangers are attached to the wall, the PS/PP profiles are inserted into the PN/PPN (first at the bottom, then at the top), move them to place and check their evenness horizontally and vertically using a rule and a plumb line or a level in which there is a tube for plumbness. If prev. the work was carried out carefully, no additional alignment will be required. Then the “whiskers” of direct hangers are bent to the rack profiles and the profiles are attached.

The next stage is the installation of crossbars. How it is done is described above, but sometimes, say, when lining pipes running along a wall, a second level needs to be added to the frame. This is done using 2-level crabs, see fig. left. It may also be necessary to assemble the crossbars from pieces, because they will be used for cuttings. Assembling rack and guide profiles from pieces is only permissible as a last resort!

The profile sections are connected end-to-end using straight connectors, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.:

In critical places, for example, in the lining of openings of doors, windows and mortgages for hanging furniture and equipment, it is highly advisable not to connect crossbars with racks in a simple way, and with the help of special crosses, the so-called. single-level crabs, pos. 3 and 4.

In the end you should end up with something like the one in Fig. on right.

Angles

In the case where all walls are covered with plasterboard, special attention should be paid to lining the corners. There are usually no internal problems; Schemes for lining internal corners for cladding on a frame and combined with glue (see below) are given in pos. 1 and 2 next rice. By the way, over the past year and a half, Knauf gypsum boards have become completely disgraceful: everything is in bubbles, soft, like foam, you can pierce it with your finger. Not counterfeit, original.

With external corners it is more difficult. You cannot place them on the edges along the rack; 2 sheets at once will end up with hanging edges, which is unacceptable. The stand needs to be placed on one side of the corner, a hanging profile of the same type must be attached to it, and the edges of the gypsum board should be attached to it, pos. 3. Then a PU profile using Fugenfüller glue or similar is applied to the joint of the sheets, pos. 4. It is better to take PU with reinforcing mesh, pos. 5.

The PU protrudes above the gypsum board by 2-2.5 mm. This protrusion must be reduced to the general level of the skin at a width of 400-500 mm, then it will not be noticeable and will not interfere with any finishing. Smooth out the PU protrusion with gypsum starting putty and a spatula, respectively. width.

Insulation under the skin

Generally speaking, insulating from the inside is bad: there is a high probability of dew point getting inside the room. It is strongly recommended to lay insulation under the gypsum board sheathing only if the wall is already insulated from the outside. In this case, insulation under the gypsum board cladding of the concrete wall is done according to the scheme in Fig. on right. If the wall is brick or wooden, before installing the frame, a semi-permeable waterproofing membrane is applied to it, the same as is used for thermal insulation of roofs: it will not allow water to pass through, but will release its vapor. The best option is a microperforated membrane.

Instead of penofol, you can use folgoizol or a similar vapor barrier. It is applied to the frame before installing the sheathing with a continuous layer of foil inside. The overlap of the edges of the vapor barrier tapes is from 15 cm; The joints are taped with construction tape. The edge flaps on the floor, ceiling and walls are the same; the excess is trimmed off after installing the skirting boards. If there is no external insulation yet, then it is necessary:

• The sheathing is made from gypsum boards.
• The insulation should not be mineral wool, but cellulose insulation (ecowool), it does not fall off and retains its insulating properties when wet. True, ecowool will cost approx. 25% more expensive.
• Before installing the frame, apply a microperforated membrane to any wall.

Sheathing

To mark the holes for attaching the gypsum board to the frame, pioneer holes of approx. 2 mm in diameter, I place the sheets in place and use a mechanic’s scribe to mark the places of notches on the profiles. The distance of the sheet from the floor of 20-30 mm is ensured by scraps of wooden slats. Mark them and don’t lose them, otherwise the holes won’t fit together later!

The number of attachment points is 45-70 per sheet with a length of 2000-3000 mm, respectively. There are 5 points on the short sides (3 on the racks and 1 between them); the rest are evenly distributed across long sides and along the center line. The extreme points should be 9-12 mm from the edge of the sheet.

An important point when attaching gypsum boards to the frame is screwing in the screws. The screwdriver must be set at minimum speed so that the head of the screw just presses into the cover paper without tearing it, as in pos. 2 fig. In other cases, the fastening will be weakened by 1.5-1.8 times, and if it is not screwed down enough (item 1), then the protruding fastener heads will weaken the casing. After fastening is completed, the heads of the screws are rubbed with gypsum putty.

Note: if the sheathing on the frame has 2-3 belts of vertical sheets, then there is no point in staggering it - it will not add strength to the sheathing, it will only make the frame overly complicated. At the joints of the belts, you need to place cross members (see above), so that the horizontal joints fall exactly in their middle, and fasten the gypsum board as usual.

On wood

Attach the gypsum board sheathing frame directly to the wooden wall, as in Fig. - a grave mistake. Apparently, the construction people have already had a lot of grief and trouble with this: there are many schemes of floating sheathing under gypsum boards in a wooden house wandering around the RuNet. In fact, an effective damper between the “walking” wooden wall and gypsum board sheathing can be ordinary straight hangers, you just need to install them correctly.

The cladding of wooden gypsum board walls is carried out using vertical counter-lattice made of beams from 60x75; wider (60x100, 60x150) - it won’t be worse, it will only take away more space from the room. The frame layout is standard, made of PN/PS profiles. As for attaching direct hangers to beams, there are 2 options.

The first is in a house made of laminated veneer lumber and with central heating. The mounting legs of the hangers are bent back and attached to the beam from the sides, so the entire sheathing will be stiffer. The second - in other cases: the hangers are attached to the beams with pairs of 6x60 wood screws through an oval hole in the shelf of the hanger (see again the picture with fasteners). Self-tapping screws are taken with faceplates and screwed into the wood, retreating from the edges of the hole by 6-10 mm. In this case, it is advisable to make the cladding 2-layer from 9 mm sheets (arched gypsum board).

Seams

The methods for grouting joints between gypsum plasterboard sheets/slabs vary depending on the type of decorative finishing of the wall. For elastic finishing that requires an absolutely flat base, but is not afraid of microcracks underneath (non-woven or foam wallpaper, PVC-based photo wallpaper, plastic tiles), the chamfer on the edges is removed at 22.5 degrees so that the apical angle of the V-shaped groove between the plates is 45 degrees. The groove is rubbed with starting gypsum putty with plasticizer flush with the general surface.

For other types of finishing, the edge plane is set at 45 degrees, and the apical angle of the groove will be 90 degrees. In this case, the groove is filled with putty (preferably adhesive) in some excess, then rubbed into a strip. Next, until the putty begins to set, apply sickle tape (on the left in the figure) and press it with a polished steel spatula (on the right in the figure) or roll it with a slightly damp smooth roller. When the grout has hardened, rub it with putty and serpyanka with a smooth transition into the general plane, as in outer corner, see above.

Note: First, a pair of folded L-shaped pieces of serpyanka with wings along the seams from 15 cm are applied and pressed onto the crosshairs of the seams. Then a tape is laid along the seam with the same overlap on the wings.

Skirting boards

Skirting boards along the contour of the skin are attached to the floor or ceiling. If adjacent walls are sheathed, then internal corner They install a PU profile with reinforcing tape, just like on an external one, and attach the plinth to it using mounting adhesive.

Without frame

Sheathing gypsum boards with glue without a frame, as stated at the beginning, is quite possible. But, contrary to popular belief, its technology is determined primarily by the unevenness of the wall, and not by its material. Options for gluing gypsum boards to walls are shown in the figure:

Method for pos. c – combined; First, a sheathing made from strips of the same gypsum board is glued to the wall. According to method b, lumps of glue are approx. 10 cm in diameter are applied in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 250 mm. The height of the lumps is the greatest unevenness of the wall + 20 mm, because optimal thickness adhesive layer 12-20 mm. The wall for gluing gypsum boards must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.

Note: Prepare the glue exactly according to the instructions. It is unacceptable to mix dry glue with water; you only need to mix it with a drill and a mixer. In general, the strength and reliability of the glued sheathing greatly depends on the quality of the water for preparing the glue.

The gypsum plasterboard is glued to the wall with continuous control of horizontal (rule) and vertical (level with a bubble on a plumb) level. Here the stumbling block for beginners is a crushed slab. It is unacceptable to pull it away from the wall; you can only press it down. In this case, preliminary gluing of beacons on the wall from scraps of working gypsum board or any other can help out, see fig. on right. Companies involved in drywall will gladly give away small waste from arched gypsum boards; to them they are just garbage. The crushed beacon can be torn off and glued again; in this case, the beacons are simply a support.

Beacons are glued to the wall so that they fit between the cakes or strips of glue on the work plate. You need 4 beacons per gypsum board/sheet at some distance from the corners. Beacons are first glued to the bottom row, leveling with a rule, then from the beacons of the bottom row the rows are led upward, pressing down with a rule and checking with a level. GKL slabs/sheets are glued when the glue under the beacons gains strength, i.e. after 3-4 days.

Note: V Lately“People’s builders” have made it even cheaper and easier to hang gypsum boards on the wall by replacing the glue... polyurethane foam. Technically, this looks very doubtful, but there is no more or less long-term experience in operating such skins, so anything is possible in the future. Watch the video if you want //www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEu7IJdnqVA, and then decide whether it’s worth trying. In humid cold (but not to minus!) utility rooms It's probably worth it. If it lasts there, it will work anywhere. And the method is ridiculously simple and cheap.

GKL decor?

It is well known that gypsum boards are used to make voluminous decorative interior details (on the left in the figure): niches, shelves, suspended ceilings, even cabinets. However, a flat multi-level decorative finishing plasterboard, in the center in Fig. To do this, the blanks are glued to the wall by applying a thin (approx. 2 mm) layer of drywall adhesive to them with a notched trowel. If the room is being sheathed in a cramped space, where there will be no joints of slabs on the walls, for example. balcony, then you can simply paint the casing, and stick PVC skirting boards or corners on the corners, on the right in Fig. An option for cladding with joints is not to chamfer the edges, leave the gaps between the plates 2-3 mm, and roll a T-shaped PVC furniture edge into them with a smooth roller.

Suspension for gypsum board

For hanging pieces of furniture and household appliances it is necessary to provide in advance the frame with embedded parts made of wooden beams or OSB. If the suspension point accounts for up to 20-30 kg, the mortgages can simply be attached to the profiles, as in the figure:

If there is more weight at the suspension point or expensive equipment (TV, microwave) is suspended, then the mortgages must be framed with crossbars from the profile of the racks. Well, if the suspension point is less than 15-20 kg, then the suspensions can be attached through the skin, see, for example. video clip:

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Drywall is easy to use, inexpensive, convenient and practical material for leveling curved walls, making light partitions, suspended ceilings, making complex cornices and false panels. At self-finishing plasterboard, the sheets are glued to the facing surfaces with gypsum mastics, or attached to the sheathing (wooden or metal frame) with self-tapping screws.

Materials

Plasterboard sheets

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (dry gypsum plaster) are a universal construction material, which are rectangular flat panels consisting of a layer of hardened gypsum dough with fillers, and two layers of construction paper (cardboard), which is needed to give greater strength and smoothness to the surface.

Plasterboard sheets are divided into:

• Ordinary (gypsum plasterboard). It is used for installation of walls, partitions, ceilings, niches, slopes, boxes.
• Moisture-resistant (GKV, GVL, GKLV, GVLV). Used in rooms with high humidity.
• With increased resistance to open flame (GKLO). Suitable for rooms with high fire resistance requirements.
• Moisture-resistant with increased resistance to open flames (GKLVO). They simultaneously have the properties of moisture-resistant and fire-resistant sheets.

Typically the sheets are 2,500 mm long and 1,200 mm wide. Thickness from 6.5 to 12.5 mm, depending on the purpose of the sheets.

Support frame elements

In the manufacture of frames for fastening drywall, we use various materials. Basically, when assembling frames, metal profiles made of galvanized steel are used.

Metal profiles are divided into:

• Guide profile (PN) - used as a guide when installing rack profiles.

• Rack profile (PS) is the main element for constructing a frame to which plasterboard sheets are attached.

• Ceiling profile (PP) - designed for mounting a frame when installing suspended ceilings.

Wall covering

The internal walls of the premises are lined with plasterboard slabs in order to avoid the need for plastering. This finishing method refers to dry methods. Plasterboard sheets make the walls even, making it possible to hang wallpaper and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are suitable for cladding brick, concrete and wooden surfaces. You can attach the sheets using special mastics, adhesives and self-tapping screws to a metal and wooden frame.

Surface cladding using adhesive mastics

Surface preparation

This method allows you to cover the walls with plasterboard yourself and is suitable if load-bearing frame takes up a lot of space, and the height of the premises does not exceed the height of the plasterboard sheet, since with this method it is unacceptable to create horizontal joints.

To begin with, the surface is cleaned, all uneven areas on the wall are removed, then markings are applied to the wall where the plasterboard panels will be installed. Also, before preparing, you must complete everything electric installation work. The room in which work is carried out must first be dried.

Walls are checked by hanging in horizontal and vertical planes, with the further installation of beacons and marks. Beacons (marks) are guides made of gypsum mortar, applied to the wall surface in one plane.

In order to install gypsum beacons, it is necessary to hammer nails into the corners of the wall at the top and bottom so that they protrude 30 mm from the surface. Depending on the height of the room, intermediate nails are hammered. Then stretch the cord horizontally, vertically and diagonally so that it is at a distance of about 18 mm from the wall surface. Beacons with a height of at least 15 mm should be installed under the cord.

Then beacons are installed under each sheet of drywall so that the vertical rows fall on the line where the two sheets join. To do this, the wall is divided into sections, the width of which is equal to the width of the plasterboard sheets. The size of the beacons must be at least 80×80 mm so that the sheet has reliable support. On each vertical line there must be at least 3 beacons, the centers of which are located along the axis of the joint of the sheets, so that the edges of two sheets can be supported on them. In this case, the upper beacon is installed at the ceiling level, and the lower one - at the floor level.

Intermediate beacons are created between the vertical beacons so that the sheet in the center does not bend during gluing.

Gluing plasterboard sheets

There are two ways to glue drywall with your own hands. In the first method, a whole sheet of drywall is placed in the corner of the room. In this case, a sheet placed at the corner of the adjacent wall will form a husk with its edge with the adjacent edge of the first sheet. In the second method, a groove is cut out on the sheet along the center line and bent at an angle of 90°. To do this, use a knife with reverse side cut cardboard and gypsum core without damaging front side leaf. And then you need to bend the sheet at an angle of 90° and install it in the corner of the room.

First, gypsum mastic is applied to the wall surface within the sheet size. Mastic cakes should be 100-150 mm in diameter and 15-20 mm thicker than the thickness of the beacons.

The mastic is applied in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 350-450 mm. On the edges of the sheet, mastic is applied in continuous stripes. After applying the mastic, the sheet is applied to the wall in accordance with the markings, and pressed with the rule, applying light blows. The mastic squeezed out from under the edges is removed with a spatula.

The installation of the plasterboard sheet should be carried out so that the bottom edge does not reach the floor by 10-15 mm. Before the mastic completely hardens, the sheet must be fixed in this position - for about 30-40 minutes.

Covering surfaces with plasterboard sheets on wooden lathing

For the manufacture of wooden sheathing, usually take bars 40 mm thick, which are pre-treated with antiseptics.

The frame is built in such a way that for each sheet there are 2 vertical bars, which should be located along its edges. If the sheet is wider than 500 mm, then another vertical bar is attached in the middle part of the sheathing. The width of the front surface of the bar, where the joint of two plasterboard sheets falls, must be at least 80 mm.

In places where plasterboard sheets adjoin the floor, ceiling, as well as in places where shelves, mirrors and other heavy objects are attached, horizontal bars are installed. Also, horizontal bars are nailed at the joints of two panels in height.

It is necessary that the front surfaces of the frame bars are in the same plane and are securely fastened, because this determines how the lined wall will look.

Before you start attaching the bars, holes are marked and drilled on the wall. Holes are made in increments of 800-1000 mm. The main difficulty during installation wooden frame is to obtain a flat plane.

To level the plane of the frame, the wall is divided into claws, the dimensions of which correspond to the parameters of the plasterboard sheets. Next, the two outer beams are installed. In order for the beam to stand vertically, it is pressed against the wall and checked with a building level or plumb line. If there are irregularities on the wall that prevent the block from standing vertically, they should be knocked down or cut down.

When securing the beam, you need to make sure that the upper and lower ends fit snugly against the wall in a vertical position. If in the middle part the block takes a concave position, then it is necessary to make a substrate between the block and the wall of the required thickness.

To install intermediate bars, a cord is pulled between the outer ones.

The sheets can be fastened using either nails or self-tapping screws in increments of 400-600 mm. After finishing self-installation sheets of drywall, it is necessary to fill the joints and holes from screws or nails.

Wall cladding with plasterboard sheets on a metal frame

Now when facing plasterboard sheets A metal frame is mainly used. This method has many advantages. Installing such a frame is much easier and faster than a wooden one, since special metal profiles are produced for it, and it lasts longer.

The installation location of guides and rack profiles is marked along the floor and ceiling using a plumb line or laser level. Rack profiles are installed in increments of 600 mm.

First, the profile guides are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowel nails, first leveled with a plumb line. Next, the outermost rack profiles are installed, and their position is checked with a level. A cord is pulled between the outer posts and the middle posts are mounted along the resulting plane. To ensure the rigidity of the frame, the racks are attached to the wall with ceiling hangers. The metal profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

In places of horizontal joints of sheets, transverse jumpers from a rack profile are installed.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws, in increments of no more than 250 mm, retreating from the edge of the sheet 10-15 mm.

Video on the topic

Considering these recommendations, you can cover the walls with plasterboard yourself, saving a lot on the services of specialists.

So, your renovation is nearing completion. If you used plasterboard to level the walls and ceilings, then you are faced with the task of how and how to finish the resulting surface.
This article talks about how to prepare walls for finishing, as well as what it means to finish plasterboard ceilings with wallpaper. You can do all the surface finishing work yourself. Below are instructions for performing listed types works

After the technician who installed the drywall leaves, the room remains almost perfectly flat. rectangular shape. The walls and ceiling are dotted with black screw heads everywhere.
What to do next with all this:

• You can choose two wall decoration options. Either it will be puttying followed by painting, or finishing with wallpaper or any other decorative materials.
• The choice of wallpaper will be very practical. Since finishing the walls and finishing the ceiling with plasterboard wallpaper will save you effort and money, do without dirty and hard work, and at the same time get a decent result. Using your imagination, you can create something similar.

• The average price of a roll of wallpaper probably cannot be determined. Today there are many options on the market, all kinds of colors and textures, and the cost of one roll can range from 100 to 2500 rubles.
  There are even more expensive options, some made from exclusive or natural materials.
• To do this job, you do not need professional skills. The fact that the walls and ceiling are even and the corners of the room are 90 degrees will also make the work easier.

Start of finishing

So, first of all, we will putty the drywall, or rather, we will need to close the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws:

• To work, you will need the following tools: a large spatula for filling large surfaces; small spatula for working with hard to reach places, as well as cleaning a large spatula; corner spatula; electric drill and mixer attachment for mixing mixtures; roller or brush.
• List Supplies will be as follows: soil for walls, serpyanka, mixtures. For filling joints, it is best to use KNAUF FUGENFULLER or UNIFLOT mixtures.
  If you decide to completely putty the walls, then use SATENTEK finishing putty for this.
• When preparing mixtures, carefully read the instructions, since the properties different brands individual. Mix with a mixer, because it is much more difficult to achieve a homogeneous mass by hand, and the drying time of the mixture increases.

Puttying

Before starting work, you need to apply a primer composition, otherwise called “concrete contact”, to the surface. This is necessary for better adhesion of drywall and construction mixture.
The primer should be applied with a roller or a regular brush. Surface treatment must be done carefully so that no dry spots remain.
Special attention pay attention to the seams between the sheets of gypsum board.
So:

• A good primer is absorbed almost instantly, so there is no need to go over one area several times if it is already dry.

• Next, we glue a special fiberglass reinforcing tape, popularly called serpyanka, onto the joints of the drywall sheets. Don’t forget to stick the sickle tape not only in the corners of the room, but also on the side of the adjacent wall.
• This action is necessary in order to avoid the appearance of cracks in these places in the future. The reinforcing tape is glued so that its center coincides with the seam.
• Next, take the prepared mixture and fill the seam with putty using transverse movements. After this, using a longitudinal movement from top to bottom, spread the putty along the seam, leveling the surface and removing its excess.
  The amount of mixture should be so much that after application, the sickle is not visible.
• Next, you need to cover the screw caps with putty. But before you start, you need to make sure that they are all screwed on correctly. The head of the self-tapping screw should be recessed into the surface of the plasterboard sheet, no more than 1 mm.
  But it shouldn’t stick out, otherwise you simply won’t be able to putty it.
• Run a spatula over the place where the screw is attached. If the spatula catches the head, you need to tighten the screw.
  Also, if the surface of the cardboard is broken, then remove the screw and attach a new one, at a distance of at least 5 cm.
• After preparing the wall, cover all the caps with putty and give it time to dry completely. After drying, the surface of the drywall looks like this.

Further finishing

In principle, at this stage, it is already possible to apply wallpaper, but it is necessary to note a couple of points. It is best to completely plaster the surface of the walls and ceiling after the joints have dried.
Why, you ask? It's simple. Don't forget that someday you will want to change your wallpaper.
And then you will regret that you saved on full plaster.
So:

• Wallpaper glue holds the wallpaper very firmly to the surface of the drywall. During dismantling, in places of contact with cardboard, the wallpaper will come off along with the plaster.
  You are left with two options: either glue new wallpaper over the old ones, or re-cover the walls with plasterboard, which, as we understand, is completely unacceptable. Also, if your wallpaper is too thin, the putty seams will be visible through it.
• Therefore, before gluing, we apply finishing layer putty and let it dry. If you still decide to do without finishing, then glue textured wallpaper for painting and update your interior to your heart's content by simply repainting the walls.
• After the finishing layer of putty has dried, we clean the surface from all irregularities using abrasive mesh. It is much more convenient to use the mesh on a special holder.

Choosing wallpaper

As mentioned above, the choice of wallpaper today is very large. So how do you choose what's right for you?
Below we will consider the main types of wallpaper, their advantages and disadvantages.

So:

• Paper wallpaper- the most common and inexpensive. The main advantage of such wallpaper is its price, as well as its environmental friendliness.
  But such wallpaper does not have good heat and sound insulation, and fades when exposed to direct sunlight. And the most important thing is that such wallpaper is afraid of water and cannot be used in rooms with high humidity.
• Paper wallpaper There are two types - simplex (single-layer) and duplex (double-layer). The latter are more durable and perfectly hide wall defects.
• Non-woven wallpaper. This wallpaper uses paper instead of synthetic material, which is based on cellulose and artificial fibers.
  These wallpapers are perfect for painting. They are very easy to glue, since the density of the material does not allow bubbles to form.
• Vinyl wallpapers. These wallpapers are distinguished by the fact that they are covered with a thin layer of PVC.
  Thanks to this, they are not afraid of moisture. The surface can be washed and even rubbed with a brush.
  The colors do not fade even when exposed to direct sunlight. They are an excellent material for finishing the kitchen.
  Such wallpaper will last a long time.

• Silkscreen printing. Essentially these are the same vinyl wallpaper, but the main thing is distinctive feature is that the pattern in the vinyl layer is created from silk threads. Such wallpapers are distinguished by their brightness, contrast and decorativeness. You can verify this by looking at the photo above.
• Textile wallpaper - one of the most expensive. Textile wallpaper is made from linen, silk, and wool.
  More often natural materials mixed with synthetics, improving the technical characteristics of the product. The texture of such wallpaper will complement the furniture upholstery, harmonizing the overall appearance of the interior.

• Liquid wallpaper- most the new kind coverings. Such wallpapers are made from cellulose, cotton and other textile fibers. This mass is diluted water-based paint, after which it is applied to the surface to be treated using a roller, spray gun or spatula.
  The result is a surface without seams. To decorate such wallpaper, special paint is used.

Wallpapering

So, the choice of wallpaper has been made, the most important thing left is to glue them in place. Don't forget that each type of wallpaper uses its own glue.
This is especially important, since the wrong adhesive can lead to your wallpaper either spreading or peeling off. It will be impossible to re-glue this wallpaper, since it will become deformed when the glue dries.

Advice! Remember that wallpaper cannot withstand drafts or temperature changes while being applied. The optimal temperature for glue drying is 25-30 degrees Celsius!

• Don't be afraid to combine various colors and wallpaper textures. This will allow you to create a unique, original design for your room.
  Combinations are also possible when the walls continue the colors of the ceiling, forming a single, indivisible space.

When creating the design of your room, do not hesitate to look through the photos already existing options. This may help you make a choice or lead you to create your own idea.
Also watch several videos on finishing plasterboard walls. Try, create, and the result will undoubtedly please you!

December 9, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of summer houses, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

You will do the right thing if you choose plasterboard for interior wall decoration. At the same time, not all home craftsmen understand how to properly install this material. After reading the article, you will learn how to properly decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands.

Finishing technology

Wall cladding with plasterboard is conventionally divided into five stages:

Stage 1: preparation of materials and tools

There are different types of plasterboard for interior decoration of house walls, so it is necessary to choose it wisely. The main parameters by which this material differs are the following:

• thickness– for walls it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm;

• moisture resistance– the choice depends on the type of room. If you plan to finish a bathroom or kitchen, you should use moisture resistant drywall"KGLV". For "dry" premises will suit regular drywall .

In addition to drywall, you will need some other materials:

• frame elements are PS and PN profiles, as well as direct hangers and self-tapping screws;
• primer;
• serpyanka mesh;
• putty - starting and finishing. The latter will only be needed if you plan to paint the walls.

As for tools, the set should be as follows:

• electric drill;
• metal scissors;
• mounting knife;
• screwdriver;
• painting cord;
• building level;
• set of spatulas;
• rule;
• a set of grids for grinding with a jointer;
• roller with cuvette.

After preparing all the tools, you can start working.

Stage 2: marking the wall

Before finishing the walls with plasterboard, they must be marked. Otherwise, the surface of the walls may turn out uneven.

The marking is applied like this:

1. First of all, mark on the ceiling a line for the location of the guide profile along the wall that you will sheathe with plasterboard. The line should be located at least 40 mm from the wall. If you plan to insulate the walls, then the distance must be increased by the thickness of the insulation.
   To get a straight line on the ceiling, step back an equal distance from opposite corners and mark the points. Then fix the paint cord between these points, pull it down slightly, and release it. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling and leave a mark in the form of a straight line;

1. the line obtained on the ceiling must be transferred to the floor so that it is located in the same vertical plane. To do this, you can use a plumb line, which marks several points on the floor. These points are then connected by a line.
   Instead of a plumb line, you can use a building level, with the help of which vertical lines are drawn from a line on the ceiling on two opposite adjacent walls. Next, these verticals are connected by a line on the floor;

1. Now you need to apply markings with your own hands directly on the wall that you will sheathe with plasterboard, indicating the location of the PS profiles. To do this, step back from the corner 10 cm and draw vertical lines in increments of 60 cm;

1. On the resulting vertical lines, mark the location of the hangers. They should be installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

According to this scheme, you need to apply markings to all the walls that you are going to finish with plasterboard.

Stage 3: frame assembly

The process of assembling the frame is quite simple, and the following step-by-step instructions will help you with this:

1. first of all, cut the guide profiles along the length of the wall;

1. then fasten the profiles according to the markings on the wall and floor using dowel nails;
2. Next, you need to secure the hangers to the wall using dowel nails. If you are finishing walls made of foam blocks with plasterboard, you must use special fasteners designed for porous ones, as in the photo below;

1. Next, you need to cut the PP profiles to the height of the walls, then insert them into the guides and secure them in the hangers. Please note that profiles may sag. Therefore, they must be aligned using the rule.

So that all PS profiles are located in the same plane, i.e. To make the wall smooth, first install the outermost racks from the corners, and then stretch the cords between them. Align the intermediate posts using them as beacons;

1. Now you need to secure the jumpers between the posts. To do this, the profiles need to be trimmed, as shown in the photo above.
   To give the wall the greatest strength, arrange the jumpers in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 50 cm.

In a wooden house, before you start assembling the frame, you need to treat the walls antiseptic impregnation. This will protect them from rotting and other biological negative influences.

According to this scheme, you need to sheathe all the walls in the room.

Stage 4: framing the frame

The next stage is cladding the walls with gypsum plasterboard. To do this, you will probably first have to cut out individual sheets, taking into account the size and features of the walls.

GCR is cut quite simply:

1. mark the cutting line by marking several points;
2. attach a rule to the line;
3. cut the cardboard with a mounting knife along the line along the rule;

1. break the sheet and cut the cardboard along the fold line.

Finishing walls with plasterboard is quite simple - the sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. However, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• The edges of the plasterboard should be at the center of the profile. There should be no “hanging” edges, otherwise the finish in these areas will crack over time;

• screws should be located in increments of 25 cm;
• The caps of the screws must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with further finishing of the drywall.

Wooden frame walls can be sheathed with gypsum plasterboard without installing an additional frame of profiles. In this case, the sheets are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the supporting structure.

Taking these points into account, it is necessary to sheathe all walls.

Stage 5: rough finishing of drywall

The final stage is rough finish drywall, which is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, cut chamfers from the joints of the sheets five millimeters wide. If the edge of the sheet is rounded, then, of course, there is no need to cut the chamfer;

1. then you need to stick serpyanka onto all joints;
2. Next, treat the surface with a primer using a paint roller. Apply the primer evenly with a thin film. If necessary, hard to reach places Apply primer using a paint brush.

After the wall surface has dried, reapply the primer;

1. Now you need to fill the joints of the sheets and screw heads with starting putty. For these purposes, you can use a narrow spatula.

Try to apply the putty carefully to get as smooth a surface as possible;

1. After the putty has dried, treat it with a brush;

1. then the walls need to be covered with a starting layer of putty using a wide spatula. The filling technique is described in detail in other articles on our resource devoted to this topic.

In the process of applying the starting layer, you need to glue it to all outer corners. plaster corners that will protect them from chipping;

1. After the putty has dried, the surface must be sanded with a P120 mesh stretched over a jointer. Make circular movements with the tool. This will get rid of all significant irregularities;
2. sanded walls must be cleaned of dust and then primed again;
3. if you plan to glue wallpaper to the walls or, for example, apply decorative plaster, then you can stop working on this. If the walls are to be painted, it is also necessary to apply a thin layer of finishing putty.

The principle of putty in this case remains the same, with the only difference being that the “finish” must be applied even more carefully;

1. The finishing layer must be sanded with a fine abrasive mesh. The work must be done very carefully so that the surface of the walls is perfectly smooth. Therefore, work must be performed in bright light.
   To check the quality of grinding, hold it up to the walls. bright lamp at an acute angle. This will allow you to notice even the smallest flaws on the walls.

Sanding walls is a very dusty job. Therefore, when starting this procedure, be sure to protect your respiratory system with a bandage or respirator, and also wear safety glasses.

This completes the interior finishing with plasterboard.

A few words about frameless installation of drywall

Besides frame technology installation of gypsum boards, which we reviewed above, there is also a technology that does not require the installation of a frame. Its principle is that gypsum board sheets are simply glued to the walls using special glue or even starting putty.

This technology can be used if the walls are relatively flat. As a result, work is carried out much faster, and the space of the room is practically not reduced.

At the same time frameless technology Finishing walls with plasterboard also has some disadvantages:

• does not allow you to insulate the walls from the inside, as well as hide communications between the wall and the gypsum board;
• requires preparation of the wall surface. Before making the frame, as we found out, there is no need to prepare the walls. That's why frameless method installation is not always faster than frame.

Therefore, when choosing a technology, you should consider the pros and cons.

The process of installing gypsum boards using this technology is as follows:

1. work begins with preparing the walls. At this stage, remove the old finish. If there are areas on the walls with peeling or crumbling plaster, these must also be removed;

1. then the surface of the walls should be cleaned of dust using a vacuum cleaner or brush, and then wiped with a damp cloth;
2. Next, the walls need to be primed. If the surface is smooth, for example concrete, it is necessary to use an adhesive primer. If the walls are plastered, priming is done with a deep penetration primer;

1. While the primer on the walls dries, the primer should be applied to the back side of the gypsum board;
2. After the primer has dried, you can begin gluing the sheets. To do this, glue is applied to their back side or starting putty lumps that are evenly distributed over the entire surface of the sheet.

1. After covering the walls with plasterboard, a rough surface finishing is performed according to the scheme described above.

Conclusion

From the article you learned that the technology for finishing gypsum board walls is quite simple, although it is not without some subtleties. For getting additional information I suggest watching the video in this article. If there are any points you don’t understand or if you encountered any difficulties while working, write your questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

When you need to quickly level the walls, drywall comes to the rescue. This is great material for interior work, which is accessible to everyone. Having a sheet format, it allows you to create large, flat areas. As a result, all that remains is to seal the joints, carry out a small finishing if necessary, and apply decorative coating.

But we must not forget that the criterion high-quality finishing plasterboard walls will have two conditions: installation of a smooth, reliable frame and subsequent processing of gypsum boards (sealing seams, applying finishing coating). Therefore, if you plan to do all the work yourself, you need to adhere to certain rules and recommendations.

You should not think that gypsum boards can only be used to create straight structures. The scope of their application is so vast that it is even difficult to imagine. Therefore, we can safely call this material decorative drywall.

And indeed, even with your own hands you can create an interior that is amazing in your imagination in any home.

Installation technologies

There are three main methods for installing gypsum board slabs, which are used depending on the design of the house (apartment). For each specific room, an individual, most advantageous technology is used.

This method is the most popular. The operating procedure is as follows:

1. The walls in the room are being prepared - cracks are sealed, antiseptic is applied.
2. Using special metal guides, they make a base, placing these elements around the perimeter of the area (on the floor, ceiling, adjacent walls).
3. It turns out to be a large rectangle, into the “frame” of which vertical profiles are inserted in increments of forty to sixty centimeters.
4. They are securely fixed to the walls using U-shaped brackets. If the height of the wall is greater than a sheet of drywall, it is necessary to install horizontal jumpers (cut sections of profile).
5. Do-it-yourself gypsum boards are installed in their places and attached.

Now you should do additional finishing, during which the seams are sealed. If painting or applying textured plaster, then plasterboard walls are covered with fiberglass, suitable for this purpose.

In principle, the use of a wooden frame is due only to the fact that it is more often used when interior decoration is carried out wooden house. The nuances of doing it yourself are as follows:

• For the frame, timber 50*70 is used.
• It is pre-treated with fire-resistant compounds.
• Only well-dried wood is used.

Drywall is attached in the same way as in the case of metal frame. Do not forget to carry out additional pasting - using fiberglass.

Laying on polyurethane foam

This is a rather specific method when there is no desire to give up some area of ​​the house to the frame. Everything is done like this:

• Drill holes in the gypsum boards.
• They apply them to the wall and transfer the markings, drill out and hammer in the dowels.
• Next to the screw connectors, with inside, glue pieces of foam rubber.
• Drywall is placed against the wall. Screws are screwed in.
• Using a level, level the slab, make another hole next to the screws - polyurethane foam is poured through it.
• After waiting for it to dry, the screws are unscrewed and everything is sealed with putty.
• It is best to reinforce such a surface with fiberglass.

Options for subsequent finishing of drywall

Of course, drywall itself is not special. decorative value. Its surface needs further finishing, which anyone can do with their own hands. Then any house or apartment will impress with its interior.

Painting

It's pretty traditional way, which requires compliance with certain rules:

1. A primer is applied to the surface of the sheets. Penetrating compounds are used.
2. All joints are well coated, covered with sickle mesh.
3. To avoid cracking, glue fiberglass. It is important to prevent this material from joining at the gypsum board seams.
4. Apply a layer of putty. Gypsum mixtures are used.
5. The walls are carefully sanded.
6. The paint is applied after priming, in several layers. It is better to do this with a spray bottle or roller.

On a note! Fiberglass is glued exclusively end-to-end. Trimming on sheets of drywall should not be allowed.

Wallpaper sticker

It seems that you can glue wallpaper onto this material with your own hands as soon as all the joints are sealed. This is a misleading impression. Yes, you can do that, but what then? If you want to change the interior of your house, they will start removing wallpaper from the walls, and it will turn out that along with it comes the protective covering slabs And you will have to start additional finishing, or even change sections of the structure.

If you plan to update the interior in the future, then wallpapering should only be done on prepared walls.

Therefore they do this:

1. Cover the drywall with fiberglass. Allow the surface to dry.
2. Dilute the putty to a liquid consistency.
3. Take a roller and soak it in the solution.
4. With quick movements, begin to apply the mixture to the walls. Apply 3-4 layers, each time waiting for the previous one to dry.

Creating a textured surface

For such work, the use of special plaster is provided. But, if desired, the interior walls of the house can be decorated with ordinary putty.

The following order is observed:

• As in the previous version, fiberglass is glued. Before doing this, it is better to prime the surface with your own hands.
• Next, apply a layer of putty equal to approximately 2-3 mm.
• Now comes the most difficult part - creating a varied terrain. Any available tools are suitable for this. The most important thing is to show imagination and a little perseverance. They do this: apply a layer of putty and immediately give it the selected texture. For example, apply a flat spatula, press a little and tear it off. Thus, a semblance of a rock pattern is created.
• The walls are primed and painted.

On a note! Fiberglass is not prerequisite finishing plasterboard walls, but it is better not to neglect it. This guarantees that the coating will always remain intact, especially when painting or creating texture.

Tile sticker

Gluing tiles onto drywall is not so difficult; the technology that is used when working with simple walls is practically repeated.

So:

• I work with gypsum boards already prepared for finishing (caulked joints). But an additional application of another mixture will be required. Namely, all seams, joints, and locations of screws (screws) are coated with a solution for gluing tiles. In this case, there is no need to use fiberglass.
• From the highest point of the floor, measure the height of the tiles + a couple of millimeters. Draw a line along the entire wall of the house. Screw the rail (profile) flush. That is, the tiles are laid from the second row.
• Next, everything is as always: apply the mixture to the plasterboard sheets, spread it with a notched spatula. And they begin to stack the products, inserting special crosses between them.
• When everything is dry, the seams are rubbed.

Drywall is universal material, which can be used for alignment as well decorative design walls It lends itself to numerous types of finishing. Thanks to this, it will be possible to obtain a completely individual interior.