My friend with thirty years of experience as a gardener says: powdery mildew is like candidiasis, only in flowers. True, garden and horticultural crops also “successfully” become infected with this disease. But if you catch it right away, the treatment won’t last.

Powdery mildew(according to scientific oidium) - this is fungal disease. At first it appears only as whitish dust on the leaves, which can be washed off or wiped off if desired. But over time, the “dust” will grow, turning into “felt.”

The attack of powdery mildew on a plant occurs in this way:

1. Appearing on the surface of the leaf (on the street this happens more often in the first weeks of summer, in the apartment all year round), fungi try to penetrate its pulp. Feeding on the juices of the plant, the mycelium grows.
2. The mycelium thickens, and if the plant is not taken care of, the thickness of the plaque approaches 1.5 centimeters.
3. Having captured the entire leaf, the mycelium “decides” that this is not enough and begins to release spores. If the environment is warm (above 20 degrees) and sunny, all neighboring leaves, branches and other plants will certainly succumb to attack. Outdoors this process will last until the end of summer, indoors - all year round. Moreover, humidity (rains, watering, spraying) does not play a role.
4. Then the mycelium grows fruiting bodies that look like brown or black dots. This is how it prepares for winter - the leaves with “fruits” will fall off and remain safely until spring, and when it gets warm, the wind will blow and the mushrooms will fly to new plants.

Pathogens of powdery mildew

They are called powdery mildew mushrooms. Moreover, the interesting thing is that there are many of them in nature, and each is “responsible” for its own type of plant. Or even a subspecies - for example, powdery mildew will not jump from pedunculate oak to decorative red oak, since fungi of different types will dominate the trees.

Crops that constantly suffer from various fungi:

• peaches,
• gooseberry,
• grape,
• roses,
• cereals,
• pumpkin,
• cucumbers,
• beets (sugar).

As for indoor flowers, powdery mildew most often occurs on violets (Saintpaulias).

How to deal with such a scourge

The first and main rule: do not put off treating plants until tomorrow. Powdery mildew spreads very quickly, so there is not a minute to waste.

Diseased shoots are removed from trees. U indoor plants collect all top soil, entire colonies of pests often hide in it.

Also, any plant must be treated with a fungicide. If the infection is not serious, you can start with folk remedies, but if the matter has gone far, it is better to immediately buy something effective. But in any case, you need to spray the plant (especially indoors) so that it drips from the leaves.

Fungicides

Yes, these are chemicals that may not smell very pleasant (which is especially true for indoor flowers, which are best treated at open balcony). But these remedies are the most powerful.

Look for one of the following drugs at the pharmacy:

• "Bayleton"
• "But",
• "Quadris"
• "Skor"
• "Topsin"
• "Topaz",
• "Tilit"
• "Tiovit Jet"
• "Fundazol"
• "Fundazim".

Important! After the first treatment, wait a week and carry out a second “sanitation”, even if there are no more traces of powdery mildew on the leaves.

Biofungicides

These substances are of a different type: they are based on living bacteria that suppress the development of fungi.

Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. Therefore they are allowed during flowering fruit crops, as well as during fruit ripening.

As for the disadvantage, there is only one so far: they are not as strong as conventional chemical fungicides. So, having bought a biological product, prepare yourself for the fact that you will need to carry out a series of treatments.

The following are considered high-quality biofungicides:

• "Alirin-B"
• "Gamair"
• "Planriz"
• "Pseudobacterin-2"
• "Fitosporin-M".

Ethnoscience"

Such recipes are also not the strongest, but it is not scary to use them on the same gooseberry, on which the fruits are already ripening, which you so want to treat your children or grandchildren.

• Soap + soda. For 1 liter of water there are 4 g of soda (soda ash) and soap. Treat sick plants with a spray bottle once, and after 7 days again.
• Ash tincture. Pour 0.5 cups of ash (wood) into a liter of boiling water. Let it brew for 2 days. Add 4 g of soap here (it is better to dilute it with water first). Spray the plants with this substance the same two times, but if necessary, more often.
• Garlic. Soak 25 g of chopped garlic in 1 liter of water. Let the water sit for a day. After filtering, you can spray plants (even indoor flowers) with this solution.
• Serum. The same one made from kefir or yogurt. This milk product diluted cold water, for each glass of whey, pour in 10 glasses of water. This solution should be sprayed on sick plants.
• Potassium permanganate. 2.5 g of this substance is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The plant is treated every 5 days, 2 or 3 times.
• Copper sulfate. This substance itself is a purchased fungicide, but it is so old and has been tested for so long that many completely trust it and consider it almost a folk remedy. You need to use it for powdery mildew like this: 5 g of vitriol diluted in a glass hot water. In another bowl, dilute soap in a ratio of 1:10. Vitriol is introduced into the soap in a thin stream (this amount is calculated for 50 liters of soap solution).

You will learn more recipes that can be used even during the fruiting period of “patients” from this video:

But, of course, the most popular folk remedy against oidium is soda. In this video you will not only learn how to use it experienced gardener, but also hear real live feedback.

Of course, you shouldn't expect what it is - Magic wand, but it’s not scary to apply soda to fruits that children might pick tomorrow:

Prevention

• Do not let the tops lie in the garden until spring; burn them in the fall.
• In the garden beds, adhere to crop rotation, not planting related crops in one place for two years in a row.
• There are a lot now good varieties vegetables Choose disease-resistant hybrids.
• If last year you encountered powdery mildew on your site, already at the beginning of summer you can arrange a preventive treatment of the vegetable garden (orchard, flower bed) with the same fungicide (or, for starters, at least with soda). How to properly dilute the fungicide for such a case is written on the packaging.

What not to do if you notice powdery mildew

• Do not prune the plant; health pruning weakens it (although this does not apply to removing affected branches).
• You should not feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer; experienced gardeners assure that this only aggravates the development of powdery mildew.
• Urgently remove the infected flower from still healthy flowerpots of its type. Set up a temporary quarantine window sill.
• Do not spray the plant so that water droplets do not spread fungi to other leaves. Also, do not place it near open window(after all, a breeze, even a light one, is another spreader of the disease). If the plant is planted in open ground, try to delay watering (or pour water only at the root).

Unfortunately, many gardeners are well aware of this plant disease - powdery mildew. She meets on garden trees and bushes, on vegetable crops(cucumbers, zucchini, squash), as well as on many flowers, even indoor ones. Today, all methods of combating powdery mildew can be divided into three groups: the use of fungicides, biofungicides and folk remedies. Read about each of these methods in this article. We will also talk about the prevention of powdery mildew on garden and indoor plants.

Powdery mildew on pumpkin leaves. © Scot Nelson

What is powdery mildew?

What does it look like: Powdery mildew can be recognized by a grayish-white coating or characteristic dark brown balls on the surface of leaves and young stems. Over time, the plaque becomes denser and then turns brown.

What caused: Powdery mildew is a mycelium that lives off the plant. The dark brown balls are her spores.

Pathogens: The name of the disease reflects a description of the symptoms of infection common to different types various imperfect fungi. For example:

• Uncinula necator - causes powdery mildew on grapevines;
• Sphaerotheca mors - on gooseberries;
• Erysiphe graminis - on grain crops;
• Sphaerotheca pannosa forma persicae - on peach;
• Erysiphe communis - on sugar beets;
• Sphaerotheca pannosa Lew. var. rosae Voron. - on a rose;
• Erysiphe cichoracearum, Sphaerotheca fuliginea - on cucurbits.

Why is it dangerous?: Plants lose decorative look. Severely affected plant parts stop growing, turn black and die. Diseased inflorescences do not form ovaries. Even a seemingly minor damage leads to a sharp decrease in winter hardiness of shoots and buds, and as a result, their freezing.

Powdery mildew on tomato leaves. © Scot Nelson

When appears: Infection begins in early summer, when spores are released from the fruiting body of the overwintered mushroom.

What contributes: Powdery mildew develops during hot, dry times with sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Sometimes after excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, after severe rejuvenating pruning, which significantly reduces the resistance of plants.

How it spreads: By wind or splashing water when watering. In direct contact with a plant of the same species.

Vegetable crops of the pumpkin family suffering from powdery mildew very often lose 50% of their yield, and the quality of the fruit also decreases. It should be noted that cucumbers grown in greenhouses are more affected by the disease in drafts, poor lighting, when the physiological state of the plants deteriorates. As a result, the cucumber's resistance to disease decreases. As a rule, the first outbreaks appear near doors and windows. Entire vines die from the disease, and within a short time all planted plants may die.

Powdery mildew on begonia. © Scot Nelson

Prevention and methods of combating powdery mildew

It is important to carry out control measures on time; delay threatens the spread of infection to large areas. Since the villainous mushroom overwinters on plant residues, the first and necessary measure to combat powdery mildew is harvesting and burning plant waste, crop rotation. Use of resistant and weakly affected plant hybrids.

Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during budding, increases the risk of powdery mildew. Against, fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers increases resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen.

The appearance of the disease on currants and gooseberries causes curvature of the shoots, which are stunted in growth, the leaves become small, ugly and, after some time, dry out. On gooseberries, in addition to the shoots, the fruits are also affected; first white and then darkening spots form on them. They stop growing, shrink and may fall off.

The development of the disease is promoted not only by humid, hot weather, but also by excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers and severe anti-aging pruning, which significantly reduce the resistance of plants.

An important condition for combating the disease is spring cutting of affected ends of shoots on gooseberries and currants. Fertilizing with phosphorus and organic fertilizers. During the periods before flowering and after harvesting the fruits, plants need to be treated with fungicides.

On the apple tree, leaves, flowers, and young shoots are affected. Leaves stop growing, curl and fall off. Affected shoots and buds freeze in winter, and the winter hardiness of trees sharply decreases. Powdery mildew is more pronounced on old trees, in neglected, unpruned gardens, and on plants located on southern and southwestern slopes.

In strawberries, raspberries, and rose hips, all above-ground organs become diseased, most often the leaves become coarser, their edges curl in the shape of a boat, exposing the underside, which over time acquires a bronze tint. In late summer - early autumn, such leaves are especially noticeable. A slight powdery coating forms on the berries, and they acquire a specific mushroom smell.

Flower leaves affected by powdery mildew darken and fall off.

On trees, it is necessary to promptly cut out the affected shoots and treat them with fungicides during the bud extension-separation phase.

Browning of an apple due to powdery mildew. © Alan Biggs

Use of fungicides

Chemical measures to combat powdery mildew, when used in a timely and correct manner, are quite effective.

Fungicides (fungus - mushroom and caedo - kill) are chemical substances to combat fungal plant diseases.

Of the modern fungicides against powdery mildew, it is worth noting the following drugs: Bayleton, Zato, Quadris, Rayok, Skor, Tilt, Topaz, Topsin, Tiovit Jet, Fundazim, Fundazol.

There have been cases of the emergence of resistant races of the fungus to chemicals in some crops, so the development of varieties resistant to powdery mildew is an extremely pressing issue.

Use of biofungicides against powdery mildew

Biofungicides are biological preparations that are designed to protect plants from fungal diseases. They contain live bacterial cultures that suppress the proliferation of pathogenic fungi.

Due to the fact that biofungicides are environmentally friendly, they can be used even during the period of fruit ripening. They are less effective than chemicals, and their effect is limited in time. They are used repeatedly.

The most well-known biofungicides against powdery mildew: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Planriz.

Powdery mildew on cabbage leaves. © Scot Nelson

Folk remedies against powdery mildew

1st recipe: Dissolve 4 grams of soda ash in 1 liter of water, add 4 grams of soap. Stir thoroughly and spray the plants 2 times at weekly intervals.

2nd recipe: Pour 0.5 cups of ash into 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 2 days, strain, add 4 grams of soap, previously diluted in water. Treat twice with an interval of 7 days. In case of severe damage, more treatments may be required.

3rd recipe: Fresh mullein. To prepare the product you need 1/3 of a bucket fresh manure pour cold water and leave for 3 days, stirring occasionally. Then filter through thick fabric and dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10. Plants should be sprayed in the evening to avoid sunburn. A fresh infusion is prepared before each treatment.

4th recipe: Fermented water. To combat powdery mildew, you can use any garden weeds; with their help, the so-called fermented grass is prepared. To do this, fill 1/2 a bucket of finely chopped weeds to the top hot water, mix and leave for several days, then strain through cheesecloth. Spray in the evening.

5th recipe: Sour milk or kefir (yogurt). The spray preparation is prepared from separated fermented milk whey, it is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with cold water and mixed until a homogeneous solution is obtained. Ready solution fill the sprayer and treat the plants.

We hope that the methods described above for combating powdery mildew will help you fight this unpleasant plant disease. But remember that the best remedy The fight against any disease is prevention.

Sphaerotheca mors-uvae Berk. Et Curt.

Symptoms of gooseberry powdery mildew:

Spots of white cobwebs appear on young leaves and shoots, and later on berries. On gooseberries, the disease mainly affects berries; on currants, to a more severe extent, young leaves and shoots. Previously, gooseberry powdery mildew appears on gooseberries, and its development proceeds faster than on currants.

The fungus overwinters in ascospores in bags that are found in fruiting bodies (cleistocarps) on affected berries, leaves and shoots.

In spring, the cleistocarp shell bursts, the bags are exposed, rupture, throwing out spores. Overwintered spores are the primary source of infection.

Mass dispersal of ascospores occurs from the beginning of flowering and continues, as a rule, until the formation of berries. Depending on weather conditions, the period of ascospore dispersal may last longer. The spores, falling on young leaves and the resulting berries, germinate. The mycelium of the fungus develops on the surface of the affected area and often covers the entire leaf blade, the surface of growing berries and shoots.

Soon after the onset of the disease, conidiophores with a chain of conidia are formed on the mycelium. As conidia scatter, they cause infection of new leaves and fruits. Over the summer, the fungus produces up to 10 generations of conidial sporulation.

The accumulation of conidiospores initially resembles powdery plaque. Gradually it thickens, becomes felt-like, brown, and later dark brown. The mycelium itself acquires the same shade; many fruiting bodies are formed on it (the marsupial stage of fungal development). Their formation begins in July, and they ripen in the spring of next year.

The leaves affected by the disease dry out, the tops of the shoots darken, bend and die. This leads to weakening of plants and reduced frost resistance. Berries affected by gooseberry powdery mildew are often unsuitable for consumption.

Conditions for the development of gooseberry powdery mildew:

The development of gooseberry powdery mildew is promoted by high relative air humidity and temperatures in the range of 17-28°C. Hot and dry weather inhibits the development of gooseberry powdery mildew; at temperatures of 30°C and above, the development of mycelium is suspended.

Measures to combat gooseberry powdery mildew:

Growing varieties resistant to disease.
In autumn or in early spring pruning and burning the tops of diseased shoots, collecting and destroying diseased berries.
Early spring spraying of affected bushes with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture before buds open.
Spraying before flowering or immediately after it when the first signs of disease appear with recommended fungicides.

The causative agent is the marsupial fungus Podosphaera leucotricha Salm. from the order Erysiphales. The disease is widespread in Ukraine, Transcaucasia, Central Asian republics, the North Caucasus, and Moldova. It affects both fruit-bearing and young trees, especially saplings and seedlings in nurseries.

The first signs of the disease may appear very early - at the end of April, in years less favorable for its development - somewhat later (in early or mid-May).

A grayish-white coating appears on young leaves, shoots and inflorescences, which covers the entire apical rosette. This is the so-called primary infection. Then, within 15-20 days, the spores scatter and infect healthy leaves (secondary infection). The appearance of a secondary infection is noted at the end of flowering or immediately after it - spots with plaque on the underside of the leaves, which is usually observed in May-June. The plaque covers the apical part of the shoot.

The disease reaches its maximum development at the end of July. When the buds are laid, the pathogen penetrates them, the mycelium persists until the spring of next year and is the source of the primary infection.
Affected leaves curl, harden, and fall off prematurely. The shoots do not grow, bend and gradually die. On flowers, the disease appears on the buds in the form of a white or dirty-grayish coating. They do not form fruits. A characteristic rusty net appears on the affected fruits, resembling cork tissue formed from mechanical damage, or a net from spraying with fungicides. Fetal development slows down. When infected early, the ovaries fall off.

On the mycelium in spring and summer, conidial sporulation develops, consisting of conidiophores and chains of conodia. The shape of the conidia is ellipsoidal, size 28-30×12 µm. They are spread by wind, insects and cause secondary infections. The incubation period of the disease lasts 4-10 days. Infection occurs especially quickly in warm weather with rain, heavy dew and fog. The development of conidial sporulation can last 45-100 days or more.

By the end of summer, the mycelium becomes denser (mainly on young shoots and petioles), turns brown, and marsupial sporulation appears on its surface, visible to the naked eye in the form of black dots. Cleistothecia with forked and tortuous appendages, dark brown, spherical, 75-100 µm in diameter, contain one bursa (50-70×45-50 µm in size) with 8 spores. The saccospores are unicellular, oval, colorless, 20-25x12-14 µm in size. The marsupial stage of the fungus does not develop infection of great importance, since by spring the cleistothecia are destroyed under the influence of other microorganisms.

The pathogen is preserved during the winter exclusively by the mycelium in the fruits and buds of the affected shoots, from where in the spring it spreads to young leaves, flowers and shoots.

After harsh winters usually the development of powdery mildew is weakened due to the freezing of the mycelium overwintering in the buds. The absolute minimum air temperature (below – 23 °C) and the number of days with temperatures lethal for mycelium can be used as indicators for predicting the intensity of development of the primary infection. Temperature factor is essential for weakening the development of powdery mildew in the northern fruit growing zone.

In dense gardens, powdery mildew develops more intensively, since due to poor ventilation of the plantings, the content of conidia in the air sharply increases and its relative humidity is higher. Such gardens require more intensive protection, annual removal of affected shoots.

In young orchards, the intensity of the spread of the disease is 1.5-2 times higher than in fruit-bearing orchards, and in nurseries it is 3-15 times higher than in young orchards, and almost 25 times higher than in fruit-bearing orchards; due to chronic infection, apple tree productivity decreases by more than 20%, seeds - by 50%.

In addition to the apple tree, powdery mildew affects the pear tree, but less strongly.

The varieties Idared, Boyken, Jonathan, Renetnoe Duki, Ondine, Charivne, Yaskrave, Papirovka, Pepin saffron, Renet Landsberg, Renet Simirenko, Cortland are strongly affected by powdery mildew, weakly - Spartan, Enort Kav, Antonovka vulgaris, Calvil snowy, Anise velvet, Melba , Stark, Boskopskaya beauty, Liberty, Freedom, Welsey, Starkrimson, King David, Starking, Wagner, Richard, Zarya Altai, Kiev winter, Auxis, Glory to the winners, Doneshta, Sary Sinap, Renet Champagne. No disease was detected on the varieties James Grieve, Priscilla, Alkmene, Chernomorskoe, Olimpiyskoe, Maya, Aport Zimniy, Grushovka Moskovskaya, Ukrainian Rosemary, and Ukrainian Pineapple. Various resistance of the same variety was observed depending on growing conditions.

Based on resistance to powdery mildew, apple tree rootstocks are divided into immune, relatively resistant and highly susceptible.

But each plant with the same symptoms has its own pathogen. For example, American powdery mildew, which affects gooseberries, peach and roses, is caused by three different spherotes.

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Powdery mildew disease - description

The first symptom of powdery mildew is a whitish coating of mycelium, on which drops of moisture appear. Powdery mildew appears on leaves and petioles, young shoots, as well as on fruits and stalks of plants. The leaves and shoots located closer to the ground are infected first, and then the disease gradually covers the entire plant. Upon closer examination, you can see sores in the places where the mycelium is attached; the plant withers and loses its attractiveness, since the fungus takes away its nutrition, and the leaves covered with plaque cannot cope with the process of photosynthesis.

Powdery mildew damage leads to a decrease in the winter hardiness of plants. Cracks form on diseased fruits, into which rot pathogens penetrate during secondary infection. Fungi can become active under the following conditions:

• during the rainy season or at temperatures from 15 to 27 ºC against a background of high air humidity - 60-80%;
• with frequent temperature fluctuations;
• after radical anti-aging pruning;
• at high level nitrogen in the soil;
• if the planting is too dense;
• when the watering regime is violated - too frequent moistening of the soil or, conversely, when it regularly dries out.

We will tell you how powdery mildew disease develops, how to fight powdery mildew on different cultures and what preventative measures will help you protect your area from this disease.

Powdery mildew - control methods

If you are convinced that your plants have been affected by powdery mildew disease, you need to tear off all yellowed and wilted leaves and flower stalks. Don't be afraid of drastic pruning of the plant - the more diseased parts you cut off, the greater the likelihood that the plant will heal. Treat the affected plant with a fungicide in such a way that the composition generously moistens all its above-ground parts - the treatment solution should drain from the plant like water after a rainstorm. When treating plants in the garden, do not forget to spray the soil with fungicide. tree trunk circle or soil in the garden.

What to do with powdery mildew on indoor flowers? If the disease appears on house plants, generously treat the soil in which it grows and the walls of the pot with fungicide. If infested, remove from pots or containers. upper layer soil with colonies of mushroom mycelium and replace it with fresh, disinfected substrate.

Powdery mildew disease - prevention

The fight against powdery mildew is carried out comprehensively - in addition to chemical treatment of plants, it is necessary to take the following agrotechnical measures:

• water the plants only after the top layer of soil has dried;
• remove and burn all plant debris in the fall;
• observe crop rotation;
• grow varieties and hybrids resistant to powdery mildew;
• do not overfeed the plants nitrogen fertilizers, especially during budding;
• do not forget to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which increase plant resistance to disease;
• carry out spring sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs;
• carry out preventive treatment of plants with fungicides in early spring and after leaf fall.

Plants are also treated against powdery mildew for preventive purposes. chemicals– for example, three to four times pollination with sulfur or three times treatment copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture or other drugs of similar action.

Powdery mildew on vegetables

Powdery mildew on cucumbers

Treatment for powdery mildew of cucumbers can be carried out folk remedies and fungicides. But the fight against powdery mildew on cucumbers is impossible without preventive measures. Prevention of powdery mildew consists of following the agricultural practices of the crop and treating the beds three times with Quadris in accordance with the instructions.

But sometimes, despite all your precautions, the disease still manifests itself. How to treat powdery mildew on cucumbers? Measures to combat powdery mildew on cucumbers may include treating the plants with folk remedies or chemicals, but in any case, before spraying, do not forget to remove all parts of the plant affected by the disease. Good results Gives dusting cucumbers with sulfur powder at the rate of 25-30 g per 10 m² or treating the bed with a solution of colloidal sulfur at the rate of 25-30 g per bucket of water.

Spraying cucumbers with mullein also helps. If you decide to use fungicides, then Oxychom and Topaz for powdery mildew in accordance with the instructions will be more effective than other drugs.

Powdery mildew on tomatoes

Powdery mildew on tomatoes occurs when there are two types of fungi. One of them, Oidiopsis erysiphoides, in open ground- a rare phenomenon; it most often affects tomatoes in a greenhouse. This usually happens in March if the greenhouse has not been disinfected. The development of the disease can be observed on seedlings - its leaves begin to dry out at the edges, and if you are late with treatment, the seedlings may die. A second powdery mildew pathogen, Oidiopsis taurica, appears yellow spots on the upper side of tomato leaves, and white coating at first it can be found only on their underside, but over time it appears on the top.

To those already described by us preventive measures against powdery mildew, you can add soaking tomato seeds before planting seedlings for 42 hours in a solution of Immunocytophyte or Epin.

But if defeat did occur, How to spray tomatoes against powdery mildew? It is advisable to treat seedlings with a solution of sodium humate, which completely suppresses the germination of conidia of the causative agent. Spraying is carried out in accordance with the instructions once every two weeks. Biological preparations for powdery mildew do a good job, for example, a one percent solution of Baktofit, which is used to treat tomatoes three times with an interval of 7-10 days, as soon as the first signs of the disease appear.

The fight against powdery mildew on tomatoes is also carried out with the Planriz cultural liquid, which is used when the first signs of the disease are detected. Of the fungicides, the drugs most often used are Strobi, Topaz, Quadris, Tiovit Jet, Bayleton and Privent. For better “adhesion” of the drug to the treated plant parts, add a little silicate glue or laundry soap to the fungicide solution.

Those who avoid using chemical means of protection in the fight against plant diseases can preventively and medicinal purposes treat tomatoes with ten percent whey, skim milk or ash solution.

Powdery mildew on zucchini

If you find a white coating on your zucchini, cut and burn the affected leaves and shoots and dig up the soil around the infected plant. To destroy the fungus, spray the area with zucchini with a solution of soda ash or cow manure, as well as an ash solution. From chemicals use Kephalon, Carboran and sodium phosphate.

Treatment of zucchini for preventive purposes is carried out in early spring with a Nitrafen solution, and therapeutic spraying with the already listed chemicals is carried out before and after flowering. Plants are sprayed with fungicides at least three times every 7-10 days, and folk remedies should be applied every other day. It is better to spray zucchini in the evening in dry weather.

Powdery mildew on eggplants

You can destroy powdery mildew on eggplants with a solution of soda ash, which we wrote about in the section on zucchini, or with any fungicide, for example, Fundazol (10 g per 10 liters of water). It will take 4-5 treatments at weekly intervals.

Powdery mildew on onions

Onions are affected by downy mildew, or downy mildew. This dangerous disease also develops in conditions high humidity and low air temperature. The infection is spread by wind or raindrops, as well as plant debris.

Fighting powdery mildew on shrubs and trees

Powdery mildew on currants

Powdery mildew on currants immediately catches the eye, and if you do not fight it immediately, by mid-summer the disease can affect the entire currant tree, and it does not matter which type of currant is affected: powdery mildew on black currants is as harmful as on red or white.

The fight against powdery mildew on currants, as on other plants, is carried out using both folk and chemical means. Treat the plant from all sides, trying to get the medicine not only on the upper side of the leaves, but also on the underside. To do this, you can use a spray bottle or a soft brush. It is better to carry out the procedure in evening time, in dry weather. Sessions are repeated at least once a week for a month.

Powdery mildew on currants can be cured using folk remedies - dusting with sulfur, spraying with soda ash, ash water, mullein solution, whey, a weak solution of potassium permanganate and other compounds, more detailed description which we will give in a separate chapter. Measures to combat powdery mildew on currants in the event of total damage by the disease may include the use of chemicals.

How to treat currants against powdery mildew in this case? Treatment of bushes in the spring with copper sulfate (10 g per 10 liters of water), Nitrafen or iron sulfate (30 g per 10 liters of water) is effective. During the budding period, copper oxychloride (30 g per 10 liters of water) or one percent Bordeaux mixture is used to spray currants, and after flowering it is used soda ash for powdery mildew - two to three treatment sessions with an interval of 10 days.

And don’t forget to remove all plant debris from under the bushes in the fall.