Depending on the age and size of the pet, the cage parameters may vary. For example, for rabbits of the "" breed, special cages will be required. Certain breeds will also need their own special cages.

The length of the cage for females with hatching should be 175-185cm, width – 1m, height – 60-70cm. During the hatching period, it is important that the female feels comfortable. Rabbits are incredibly afraid of dampness and drafts. Place the cages so that they are not constantly exposed to the sun. The façade of the cage should be placed to the east or west. Dig the pillar into the ground (to a depth of 0.6-0.8m), place stationary cells. Portable cages can be placed on stands or wooden trestles. Single-tier cages can be installed at a level of 70-80cm from the ground. In order for rabbits to move easily in cages, the structures must be free. For rabbits weighing over five kilograms, cages with a length of 130-150 cm, a depth of 70 cm, a back wall height of 40-45 cm, and a front wall height of 55-60 cm will be required.

Group cages are used for transplanted young animals. In such cages you can simultaneously keep from eight to twenty rabbits.

From three to five animals under three months of age or two to three rabbits over 3 months of age are kept in individual cages.

For one rabbit, the cage area should be at least 0.5 square meters. m, at least 35cm – wall height.

When making group cages, take into account the number of individuals, because each animal will need at least 0.15-0.20 square meters. m.

External cages for keeping rabbits can be one-, two-, or three-tiered. There should be 35 cm from the surface of the ground to the cells of the lower tier.

IN winter period When you need to care for suckling rabbits, you should cover the floor in the nesting compartment with straw. The layer of straw is up to twenty centimeters.

Choose non-artificial materials for making the cage. Synthetic materials have a bad effect on the development of rabbits - this rule is important for all breeds of rabbits.

Cage for adult rabbits

Since large cages are needed for a female with a hatch, a cage with the following parameters will be sufficient for an ordinary rabbit: width 60-70cm, height - 60cm, length -100cm. These are the minimum cage sizes for one adult.

The rabbits are growing, and they will need larger cages. For adult rabbits, cages with the following parameters are suitable: width – 60-80cm, height – 50cm, length – 120-150cm. Farmers say that in such a cage an adult will feel free and have personal space. Experts agreed that the floor of the cage should be made of mesh or slats. In appearance, the cage should resemble a block consisting of two cells, each of which can contain an adult.

You can fence off the feeding and nesting compartments of the cage with a wall, although the pet will not get lost and will find food.

When choosing cells, you need to take into account gender. A cage for a female rabbit will not suit a rabbit, although they will be of the same type. Consider the cage size and external conditions when creating the cage.

A two-tier shed is a row of cages placed in one or several tiers. Details about. A two-tier shed would be a suitable choice - it reduces the working area and does not complicate the control and care of pets. This design is used in the southern regions or on the street. But such an enclosure can be organized in a barn or for the use of summer keeping rabbits. The shad should not stand on the ground. It is preferable to place it at a height of 50-60cm. Considering the size of the pet, the width of the shad should be up to 2m, depth – up to 1m. You can also make a two-tier shed yourself. You will need boards, slate and a durable steel mesh. The shed is built on a one-sided principle. A concrete foundation will increase the stability of the structure. Improved design includes manure channel and drip trays. Sheds are the best way to keep rabbits. Arranging a shed allows you to keep several pets and makes caring for rabbits easier.

It is important to make a drawing of the cage and in the future add additional houses or even rows of houses for new pets. In the sheds, all the cells are the same in size, the houses are covered with a canopy, placed close to adjacent structures and placed one above the other. The convenience of this design is that the rabbits will spend spring and summer outside.

In winter, rabbits in sheds are given specially heated water. Typically, a nursery for grass or hay is set up between two houses. The cages have waste-free hopper feeders - they need to be loaded for 3 - 8 days. A bunker feeder can be made from steel sheets. In spring and summer, shads use automatic water supply for rabbits to drink. The passage in the shed is located at a slight slope from the center to the exit. The rear walls of the cage form the walls of the shad. The sheds have small windows with bars. In winter, the windows with bars are closed with folding doors. Doors are made with inside cells. Be sure to hang drinking bowls and feeders. An overhead road for trolleys (for transporting feed) is equipped along the middle passage.

You will need a double cage with a queen cell. The queen cell is a removable compartment where babies up to a month old will be kept. It is also called the aft compartment. The largest part of such a cell is called the feed cell. There should be a hole between the cells, measuring 17x20cm. A similar design is suitable for a male and a female, two rabbits with babies. A solid wooden partition or mesh will separate the compartments. It is best to make the floor from wooden slats (1.5 cm increments), then the manure will fall into the lower pan.

Rabbits do not live long and should be comfortable in the house. You should not save too much on materials, because healthy pets will fully pay for the costs. A double cage with a queen cell includes a nursery, a door to the nesting compartment, a mesh door, a folding drinker and feeder, a stand post, and a feeder axis.

The designs should be such that there is no need to constantly open the doors to fill them. Sawdust or small shavings are not suitable for bedding - the dust from them will cause the rabbit to sneeze.

Double cages with mesh aviary

To build a double, single-tier cage with a mesh enclosure, you will need 0.6 sq. m mesh (cells 35x35mm); lumber - 0.2 cubic meters. m, 1.3 sq. m of metal mesh (cells 18x18mm) - if this is not available, then all-welded mesh (cells 16x48mm) will do. Similar designs are needed for non-pregnant rabbits of reproductive age. They can also house adult rabbits and young animals separated from their queens.

Cages for rabbits with devices for storing food for 1-2 weeks

These are advanced cages, they are made from various building materials. Features: in the center there are structures for breeding stock, and along the walls there are enclosures for young individuals. The structures can be two- or three-tiered. But make it so that feces and urine do not fall from the upper cells.

For the uterine compartment: 40x70x60cm, for the light compartment: 60x70x60cm. Auto-drinkers, feeders, nurseries for grass and hay are located in a bright compartment. Install a mesh or slatted grille at a height of 5-10cm in the uterine compartment and at a height of 10-15cm from the floor in the light compartment. In summer you need to clean the cages more often because worms form in the manure.

Cage sizes for Zolotukhin rabbits

Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin, a famous rabbit breeder, developed his own concept for keeping rabbits.

In such cages there are no pallets, the floor is made of boards or slate, the rear walls are mounted at an angle, there are no special queen cells, grain feeders are fixed to the doors, only there is a narrow strip of mesh floor along the rear walls of the structure. Cell dimensions: 70x100cm, cells are placed one above the other in several tiers, queen cells are also placed. To prevent baby rabbits from falling out open door– place a board in front of the queen cell. Queen cells are placed one above the other. A separate opaque door, common to all structures, is installed. The queen cell is located in the cage itself, only part of the removable board is fenced off.

Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits

The breed of large meat-and-skin rabbits is called the “gray giant.” Required dimensions of the structure: width 35cm, length – 60cm, height – 40cm. You can make a more spacious cage: height – 61cm, length – 96cm, width – 68cm. The “gray giant” rabbit lives in areas with different climatic conditions.

Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits

The following design is suitable: width 50cm, length 70cm, height 30cm. To make a rabbitry, you will need a soldered mesh, the cells must be square. You will need rolled wire, diameter 6mm. Thinner wire should be wrapped around the joints on the structure. In such designs, water is supplied through nipple drinkers, and there are also small feeders with a supply of food. The animals are fed for about a week. During this period they should be carefully looked after.

Cage sizes for California rabbits

California rabbits are easy to care for. This is a hybrid of Russian ermine, Soviet chinchilla and New Zealand breed. The dimensions of the structure can be 1.5 times smaller than for “gray giant” rabbits. These rabbits can tolerate the cold well even without bedding. For a cell with a queen cell, 0.4 square meters will be enough. m, for one individual – 0.3 sq. m. They are easy to maintain. California rabbits have coarse fur on their feet. When placing individuals in mesh blocks, place pets of the same age - this will make it easier to care for, feed, and conduct veterinary examinations.

To raise California rabbits solely for meat, keep them in a pit. It is very easy to set up a pit, and the living of these rabbits in the pit will be as close as possible to their natural living conditions.

To build a rabbit pit, you need to dig a hole with approximate dimensions of 2x2x1 m, strengthen the walls with slate or concrete, lay a mesh or plank floor, enclose the hole with a fence, and make a roof. California rabbits will burrow, mate, breed, and raise young.

To avoid degeneration of rabbits, do not allow inbreeding. The rabbit breeder is obliged to supply water, feed, and periodically carry out selective selection. To avoid inbreeding, the first generation to reach sexual maturity, obtained from a particular male, must be captured and replaced with other rabbits.

California rabbits eat dairy products, fish or meat meal, and various protein supplements well. In winter, pets should have warm liquid to drink. Constant access to water is required for rabbits.

IN last years It is very popular among farmers to breed California rabbits. This breed is easy to breed on specialized farms. European rabbits are the ancestors of this individual. Initially, breeders set themselves the task of developing a meat breed of rabbits with good skins. This breed is one of the most famous meat rabbit breeds. 7-8 rabbits is the average fertility of rabbits. When breeding, female rabbits can produce 11-12 rabbits. Rabbits are white (grayish) at birth, and by 3.5-4 months of age they become similar in color to adult rabbits. In two months, newborn rabbits gain two kilograms of weight. Adult female rabbits weigh 4.7-5.2 kg, rabbits - 4.5-5 kg. If you cross New Zealand white rabbits with California rabbits, you can achieve excellent results breeding. Rabbits of this breed have drooping legs. California rabbits have been successfully bred on slatted floors. The tail of Californian rabbits lies close to the body, the chin is symmetrical, the head is set on a short neck, a wide back and shoulders, and a cylindrical body of medium length.

This breed may also be called the “California White Rabbit” because it is pure white. However, the tips of the ears, tail and paws may be brown or black. Usually such a rabbit weighs no more than 5 kg. If you weigh more, you are obese. The rabbit's legs are thick and short, its eyes are pink, its skeleton is strong and light. The length of the ears does not exceed 10cm. Experienced breeders advise novice rabbit breeders to pay attention to breeding California rabbits, because they are easy to keep.

The length of the fur is approximately 3cm, the length of the body is 50cm. The head is round, medium-sized. The rabbit's fur is shiny and thick. California rabbits can also be bought for entertainment, because they have a peaceful disposition and cheerful character. With proper care, California rabbits can live up to ten years. However, due to their large size, such individuals will be difficult to keep as ornamentals. Rooms with moderate, constant air temperature and lighting are suitable for their maintenance. You can feed them hay, grass, cereals, flour, vegetables, and cereals.

Optimal cage sizes for rabbits

Suitable cages will have the following dimensions: length - 120-150cm, width - 60-80cm, front wall height - 45-50cm, the door should be mesh, dimensions 65x70x50cm, slatted or mesh floor.

Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits

Industrial cage designs are modular, which, taking into account the stages of the process cycle, allows new designs to be added to existing ones. Dimensions: 2x2x1x7m, there are ten uterine compartments, measuring 40x92cm. To facilitate access to the boxes, there are spring-loaded lids. The operator, using the lifting covers of the partitions, can clean the rabbit uterus sections without any obstacles, perform weaning, individual therapy, palpation, and insemination. To remove litter, all cages have removable corner panels.

The “dietary and easily digestible meat” of rabbit leaves no one indifferent, which is why many farmers breed these animals. An indispensable “assistant” in such a matter will be a multifunctional cage for rabbits, which they can build on their own. There are many options for creating such a design, but it is worth giving preference to the best.

Choosing a suitable location for a rabbitry

Before the construction project begins, the location for the building is determined. The nursery is located on the street or in a utility room.

In the first case, a suitable area is selected, protected from:

• dampness;
• draft;
• exposure to direct sunlight.

The health of animals, as well as the quality characteristics of meat and fur, depend on proper housing conditions. Therefore, they also think about the number of cages for rabbits and the sizes of sections. Select a cozy area for the queen cell.

Air humidity in the rabbitry should not exceed 75%. Therefore, the building is installed away from ponds or other sources of water.

Types and dimensions of rabbit hutches

For the full-fledged rearing of individuals, an entire “residential complex” is created. It can consist of several blocks, which are formed into 2-3 tiers to save space.

• pregnant rabbits;
• young animals;
• males;
• adults;
• females with offspring.

Calculation of area for each individual rabbit. Adults are allocated up to 0.7 m² of space, and cubs - only 0.25 m².

The size of the cage for rabbits is determined taking into account the needs and developmental characteristics of the animals. The table below provides recommendations for the design of buildings when maintaining different types animals.

It is worth considering that females with cubs are sent to a nest-nursery, which differs:

• high-quality thermal insulation (layer of foam or hay);
• special purity;
• high sound insulation (double walls);
• sufficient space.

It is recommended to keep adult rabbits in block structures, divided into 2-3 compartments. A mesh is usually used as a partition. As the offspring grow older, it is removed, impoverishing the sections among themselves.

Each rabbit cage should be equipped with space for:

• eating;
• walks.

The optimal dimensions of each compartment are 30x60x50 cm. The space is zoned using plywood partitions. In each of them holes are formed for the free movement of animals. The maximum height from the floor of the openings made should not exceed 15-20 cm. For young animals, a cage is built, the bottom of which is presented in the form of solid plywood. Mesh or slatted surfaces in most cases contribute to the development of pododermatitis.

When breeding giant rabbits, their non-standard weight is taken into account. For this reason, the floor of the structure is additionally reinforced with a thick galvanized mesh or lathing made of bars.

What materials are rabbit cages made of?

The farmer’s main task when constructing such structures is to create conditions as close as possible to the natural habitat of rabbits. Based on this, for construction they choose only natural materials. Ideal option high quality wooden beams will be used for the frame and supports.

When constructing walls, the following are often used:

• boards;
• thick plywood;
• wooden slats;
• galvanized mesh.

Breeders do not recommend using chipboard, since the material is highly hygroscopic. As a result, the structure will begin to quickly absorb moisture, which will lead to swelling and destruction of the cell.

In accordance with sanitary standards The wood must be sanded, sanded, and then treated with antiseptic agents. Next we start designing.

As a standard, a rabbitry consists of several parts:

• main frame;
• walls;
• ceiling;
• roofs;
• supports

Aviaries that are installed under open air, must be equipped with a powerful roof. It is not recommended to make it from metal, since when exposed to the sun the surface will overheat very much.

This will lead to heat stroke in the animals. Therefore, the upper part of a homemade rabbit cage is covered with slate or ondulin. Depending on weather conditions, flooring is made of mineral or glass wool. Be sure to make doors, having prepared sufficient quantity accessories: awnings and valves.

Additional materials: insulation, sanding and plaster, as well as solid wire mesh. Slats, corners, screws and nails are used as fastenings.

Rabbit cage from professional breeders

Construction of a nursery begins with choosing a suitable drawing and calculating the amount of materials needed. Then they begin to make a frame from wooden beams. The resulting base is coated with primer paint. They lay the floor, attach walls and partitions, and install the roof. A separate queen cell is set up and doors are installed. When the rabbit cage is ready, feeders and drinkers of various shapes are placed inside the building.

In most cases they are presented as:

• gutters
• bunkers;
• cups;
• ceramic bowls;
• nursery feeders.

In the production of these parts, plastic, tin, plexiglass or wood are used. It is necessary to understand that these animals are insatiable rodents. Therefore, when constructing cages for rabbits with your own hands, the walls of the building are in most cases lined with sheets of tin.

Recommendations for slatted floors. The cross-section of the slats should not exceed 2.5×3 cm. Place them opposite each other at a distance of 1.5 cm, but no more. Otherwise, the pets’ limbs will fall into the holes, which will lead to injury to the animals.

Rabbit breed	Dimensions of individuals		Queen cell dimensions, cm
	Length, cm	Weight, kg	Length	Height	Depth	Manhole (diameter)
Giant	75	10-12	95-100	80-85	50	20
Average	55-60	until 6	70-80	60	40	18
Mini	40-45	2-3	60-65	40-50	35	15
Dwarf	30-35	0,6-1,75	40-45	25-30	20-25	10

Having become familiar with general idea building a nursery, it is worth considering in detail how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands. Famous breeders offer multifunctional and practical designs for breeding these cute animals.

Zolotukhin's cage - more than just comfort

The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin developed an original building plan for animals. Thanks to the successful design of the structure, the animals feel as protected as possible, and the farmer cleans their home much less often.

The main features of the Zolotukhin rabbit cage are:

• formation of a 2-3-tier nursery;
• security desired inclination rabbit cages;
• replacing the mesh floor with slate or plywood;
• mobile/mobile feeder;
• lack of a permanent nesting site.

Traditionally, Zolotukhin’s cage is designed for 6 adults. However, you can increase or decrease the number of sections.

The floor of all compartments is made at a slope of 20-30˚ (6-8 cm), so that animal feces spontaneously roll into the far part of the structure.
A grate (15-20 cm wide) is attached along the entire length of the back wall, through which the animals’ waste will come out. Each subsequent floor is mounted with a shift, exactly the width of the built-in grid. Such a rabbitry arrangement is very practical, since, as has been noted, pets urinate precisely at the back wall of their home.

The feeder in such buildings is presented in the form of a bucket, which is attached with screws to the door frame of the cage. The food device rotates freely around its axis, like a swing. This allows you to clean it without any problems.

In this design there is no queen cell. However, the nest is made in a shaded corner of the building, separated by a board ½ the height of the rabbit cage.
A sufficient amount of hay is placed there, from which the female independently forms a nest. Once babies reach one month of age, the separating sheet and space are removed.

Scheme and nuances of cell construction

Nikolai Ivanovich considered it necessary to install a sennik between the cells. The rabbit breeder divided each tier with a device made of wooden slats. The academician connected the lower ends of the planks, and left a distance of 20-30 cm in the upper part. The resulting triangular block will take up to 40 cm in length. When constructing a unique cage, Nikolai Zolotukhin suggests using ordinary drawings.

A three-tier rabbitry with 6 compartments can have the following exact dimensions:

• height - 132 cm;
• length - 248 cm;
• depth and width of compartments - 60 cm;
• height of the stand legs - 40 cm;
• edging or connecting strips - 4 cm.

The height of each tier is different. The blocks on the first floor are 35 cm high, on the second - 49 cm, and on the third - 40 cm.

It is not always necessary to install a net at the back wall of a rabbit cage. It is enough to simply make a gap of 2 cm on the back side, and also raise the floor of the structure by 8 cm. Wood block laid on a frame, and then laid a floor of plywood or slate. The result will be a hole through which feces will come out. Since the 2 parts of the structure are installed with the back wall facing each other, a sewer gutter is installed between them at the bottom. At the same time, it is made at a slight slope.

The frame is made of 4 beams. For strength, they are fastened with transverse wooden

Multifunctional cage for rabbits Mikhailov

The main feature of the Mikhailov rabbitry is the technology of automatic heating of drinkers and queen cells. For the most part, such structures are intended for decorative raising of pets.

The building includes:

• 4 main compartments;
• 2 compartments for water;
• cone-shaped outlet for feces;
• 2 side feeders.

Often a cage for rabbits is made in 2 tiers. However, such a project is quite labor-intensive and expensive.

Depending on the number of floors of the nursery, the dimensions of the device can be as follows:

• height - 120 or 70 cm;
• width 240 cm;
• waste collection cone - 100 cm;
• rack supports - 140 cm.

The optimal height of the cage does not exceed 70 cm. The width of the compartment for an adult is 60 cm, including a place for drinking.

If necessary, a queen cell with dimensions of 35x40 cm is mounted to the rear wall of the cage. The feeders are made trapezoidal and attached to the side walls of the structure. The floor is assembled from slats, laying each of them at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other. A chute for removing feces is formed from plywood or mesh at an angle of 45˚. A container for collecting manure is screwed to the opening of the waste disposal unit.

Be sure to install a ventilation pipe, which is covered with a visor. This ensures proper air circulation in the cage.

Creating a mini-farm with your own hands is fraught with some difficulties. The ventilation outlet and heating system require precise calculations. However, Mikhailov proved that when the air temperature outside drops to +5˚C, rabbits need warm water. This feeding technique helped the breeder preserve up to 95% of the young, as well as increase the percentage of fertilization of females in the winter.

When we're talking about about the installation of several tiers, 2 boards are installed on each floor with a slope of 30˚. They serve as both a roof and a drain for removing feces.

Rabbit cage according to Tsvetkov's method

A distinctive feature of these rabbit cages are multiple stool collectors as well as gravity feeders. The containers are attached to the side wall of the structure. In addition, the design includes mounted queen cells, which are also fixed to the facade. The frame of the building is made with your own hands from coniferous timber.

Fixed at an angle of 30-45˚. The lower part of the tank is covered with a lid in which 2 holes are made. Thanks to such design features, rabbits will not be able to wash their paws in drinking water.

A cone-shaped gutter is assembled from galvanized steel (0.5 mm), carefully connecting the joints. These devices are placed close to and parallel to the wall. Upper part the structures are attached to the cage itself. Plastic buckets with lids are mounted to the openings of waste bins. Latch brackets are used as fasteners. To protect rabbits from pododermatitis, the mesh floor is covered with boards. When breeding young animals, a room is provided for walking the kids. Nesting areas must be insulated with another sheet of plywood or polystyrene foam.

Modular cage according to the Komov-Kuzmin project

Anyone can make such a rabbitry. It features bottle-style vacuum drinkers as well as bi-fold doors on the manger. All the walls of the shad are made blank, which guarantees a stable microclimate inside the building all year round. The facade of the building is made of mesh. Feed containers are mounted on a monorail in the central part of the nursery. Closer to the edge, an inverted bottle and a water tank are secured with ropes. A hay trough is installed in the central zone.

Optimal parameters of a modular cage for rabbits:

• compartment height - 44 cm;
• depth - 80 cm;
• width - 65 cm;
• sennik - 20 cm.

The rear walls are equipped with hatches for cleaning pallets. These openings also provide ventilation in summer time of the year.

Such homemade cells for rabbits it is usually used as a queen cell. The farmer has to clean such structures himself, using special devices.

Budget option - all-wire cage for rabbits

Among the advantages of such homemade rabbit hutches are their particular strength, light weight and compactness. Such nurseries are installed under a canopy, using them only in the warm season. In winter, the structure is brought into a heated room.

To manufacture the proposed economical version of the cage, galvanized mesh is chosen:

• coarse mesh (25 or 50 mm) is used for the construction of ceilings and walls;
• fine mesh (15 or 20 mm) - for the floor.

Draw a diagram of the nursery on a piece of paper. All elements of the support frame, the placement of feeders/drinkers, and the location of doors are prescribed. Indicate the connection points of fasteners. The dimensions of the structure are indicated with the calculation of space for young animals - 0.12 m²/individual, adult rabbits - 0.17 m²/individual.

Take into account standard parameters cells:

• height - 40-50 cm;
• length - 130 cm;
• depth - 80 cm.

The frame is erected from hardwood timber. The height of the legs is made optimal: 50-70 cm. Cut from solid wire required sizes sheets. Fastening brackets are made from wire. Connect the main parts of the structure. The floor must be reinforced with wooden slats, nailing bars in increments of 30-40 cm. If necessary, walls made of mesh or plywood are installed. Cut out doorways at the front of the nursery. The doors are fixed on metal rings. For the roof they use slate, and sometimes metal profiles.

The space reserved for the rabbit is equipped with an additional sheet of plywood. They spread hay on it. This nesting zone is separated by another partition.

Step-by-step instructions for a mesh cage for rabbits

The structure is assembled from wooden beams and metal mesh. It is built in 2 tiers. It has 3-4 separate chambers for adults. To assemble this nursery model, the breeder does not require any special professional skills.

All you have to do is be creative and follow detailed instructions project:

• a base frame (1×2 m) is made from 4 beams;
  
• nail 3 transverse slats (90-100 cm long) at a distance of 65 cm from each other as dividing elements;
  
• attach a mesh to the frame (cells 12.5×50 mm, thickness 2 mm);
  
  
• the sharp edge of the mesh is hammered in so that the rabbits do not get hurt;
  
• legs 55 cm high are mounted at the corners of the structure;
  
  
• strengthen the supports by fixing transverse bars around the entire perimeter at a height of 20 cm from the floor;
  
  
• do internal partitions frame made of slats 3x3 cm (the length of one frame is 90-100 cm and the width is 65 cm);
  
  
• the sections are covered with wire (thickness 0.8 mm, cells 25×25 mm);
  
• feeders are fixed on each side of the frame using self-tapping screws;
  
• the entire structure is covered with galvanized mesh 50×50 mm, 1.5 mm thick;
  
• the back and side walls are covered with plywood or boards;
  
• the back wall is made with a gap of 2 cm to remove feces;
  
• doors are made from slats: they are fastened with corners and sheathed with wire;
  
  
  
• set the hinges to 40, screw on the handles;
  
• holes for drinking bowls are drilled in each section;
  
• stretch the water supply tube at a height of 25 cm.
  
  

On final stage install a roof under small angle. A batten is fixed along one side of the frame to raise the roof structure.
This will ensure water drains during bad weather. Then up to 8 slats are nailed across the building.

The gutter for drainage is made from tin.
The second tier is constructed according to the same principle. A distance of 40-50 cm is left between floors, separated by a sheet of plywood and reinforced with transverse planks. The two blocks of the structure are secured so that they stand securely.

The wood must be treated with an antiseptic to protect the building from rotting and all kinds of fungal organisms. Breeders advise choosing less concentrated products.

We build production sheds for rabbits with our own hands

The massive structure is a large frame with a canopy. The nursery is divided into dozens of sections. The structure is erected in 2-3 tiers, which allows the manufacturer to significantly save space.

The frame is made of 3 types of material:

• wooden beam;
• metal supports;
• polycarbonate pipes.

The first floor is installed at a height of 70 cm from the ground. Thus, dampness does not penetrate into the rabbits’ home, and heat is retained for a long time. Sections are mounted in 2 ways: in a row or in a cascade method. The flooring material is metal grid with fine division.

Standard sizes of sheds for rabbits are calculated depending on the number and dimensions of one cage. Each individual cell can be 50 cm high, 100 cm long and 90 cm deep.

As already noted, an exact drawing of the structure must be depicted on paper. Prepare 6 wooden beams of 50 cm each (30×30 mm). Take 4 slats 90 cm long and the same number of meter slats.

After this, they begin to follow the step-by-step instructions for constructing a shed for rabbits:

• assemble the frame from prepared wooden planks according to the level;
• the bottom of the structure is made from slats (with a cross-section of 25×20 mm and a length of 90 cm) in increments of 1.5 cm;
• stuff the mesh onto a wooden frame;
• cut rectangular sheets (depending on the number of sections) from galvanized wire (25x25 mm) with dimensions of 90x50 cm and 50x100 cm;
• they fasten wooden planks at right angles to form frames and cover them with wire;
• the front panel, which acts as a door, is made 5 mm smaller than the main opening;
• the constructed sections are connected with metal plates into one whole;
• Sheets of slate or polycarbonate are mounted on top of each tier, which should protrude 10-15 cm from the back and front of the sections.

The upper part of the rabbit cage is made at an angle of 30˚. Therefore, the back wall is taken 10-15 cm lower than the front. This feature will ensure spontaneous disposal of feces.

Shed assembly

The tiers are stacked on top of each other using beam legs attached with self-tapping screws. A distance of 50-70 cm is left between the horizontal blocks for good air ventilation. At the base of the rabbit shed, a trench is formed on the back side to collect waste.
It is usually concreted and also made on a slope. As a result, feces can be washed away using running water.

Drinkers and feeders are attached to the door with hooks or clamps. Sometimes containers with built-in rollers are used. But to do this you will need to cut a hole in the bottom of the door.

Cage for rabbits with a special enclosure for walking

Designs of this type are suitable not only for young animals, but also for raising adults. The building consists of 2 compartments, partitioned with a sheet of plywood. The depth of the sections varies from 60 to 65 cm. A square or round hole is made in each of them. Such structural features allow rabbits to move freely around their nursery.

When making an aviary, the following is used:

• wooden frames;
• wire mesh sheets;
• door hinges;
• slate or boards for building a roof.

The base of the enclosure frame is reinforced with additional bars. The resulting foundation is dug into the ground 3-5 cm.

The optimal dimensions of the walking area are 200x100x60 cm. Several tricks for assembling the structure will help increase the space. The completed cages are installed above the enclosure. In this case, the beams-legs are selected from the most durable material. They can also be reinforced with additional strips or slanting slats. A ladder is attached to the adjacent wall of the structure so that the animals can safely descend into a kind of “entertainment area.”

Cleaning such an enclosure is quite difficult. Therefore, such structures are made mobile so that their location can be periodically changed.

Indispensable elements of the “interior” of a rabbit cage

Drinkers and feeders are always installed on the façade of the nursery. Farmers often use automatic systems water supply. They consist of a reservoir with liquid, placed outside the cell, and a container attached to it, which is located inside the structure.

Other types of drinkers are also successfully used:

The options for cages for rabbits proposed above are considered the most comfortable for both breeders and animals. However, for this it is necessary to properly care for the structures, as well as the animals.

Step-by-step video instructions for building a rabbit cage

In order for rabbits to grow and develop well, it is important not only to feed them properly, but also to provide them with comfortable living conditions. That is, build comfortable, spacious housing for the animals. The sizes of cages for rabbits may vary. It all depends on what breed they are intended for.

Minimum dimensions

The cages are made in such a way that per head there is at least:

• for sexually mature female rabbits - 0.5-0.7 m2;
• repair rabbits - 0.17 m2;
• young animals - 0.12 m2;
• breeding males - 0.3-0.5 m2.

To a large rabbit(giant, Flanders) will need a home measuring at least 0.75 (w) x 0.55 (h) x 1.7 (d) m. Smaller animals (chinchilla) - 0.6 x 0.45 x 0.9 m. The dimensions of the cages for dwarf and decorative breeds of rabbits will be appropriate.

What should the design be?

Typically, rabbit cages are built on a timber frame. The back and side walls, as well as the roof, are made of thick plywood or boards. The front part is made of mesh with a fine mesh (for example, 2.5 x 5 cm). The floor of the cage should be sloping. It is also made from mesh (1.5 x 5 cm) or slats packed parallel to each other. A tray is installed under the floor to collect manure. This design will allow you to keep the “room” clean. The lid, if the cages are installed outdoors, should be made pitched and protruding forward by about 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm. It is covered with slate or corrugated sheets on top.

The cage should be raised above the ground by at least 70-80 cm. Caring for animals with this arrangement is much easier. And the animals themselves will be protected from attacks by dogs and small rodents entering the cage. Very often, cells are arranged in rows of several tiers. One dwelling can be used for either one or two adult rabbits (or several small ones).

Hanging removable drinkers and feeders are hung on the front side. It is best to make them rotating. This will make feeding the rabbits easier. In addition, animal feces will not fall into the feeders. Next, let's look at what the “rooms” for the queens should be, as well as the size of the cages for keeping rabbits and breeding them.

Cages for rabbits

Housing for sexually mature females is divided into two parts: feeding and uterine. As a partition, use plywood with a hole cut into it with a diameter of 20 cm. It should be located above the floor at a height of approximately 10-15 cm. This is necessary so that small rabbits do not crawl into the aft part. The floor in the queen cell is made not from slats or mesh, but from solid plywood. The front door of the queen cell is made of board or plywood. For the stern part it is made of mesh. Before breeding, the queen cell itself, measuring 0.4 x 0.4 m and 20 cm high, is installed in the nesting compartment.

Standard double option

In addition to multi-tiered ones, long cages are often used in private households. A couple of animals are placed in them at once. Dimensions of cages for double rabbits:

• in length - 210-240 cm;
• width - 65 cm;
• in height from the facade - 50-60 cm;
• height from the rear wall - 35 cm.

Queen cells are located on the sides of such cells. The remaining part houses the aft compartments. The floor in them is made of lattice, and in the nesting compartments it is solid. In the middle of the cage there are mangers made of V-shaped mesh, designed for distributing roughage. Drinkers and feeders for grain are hung on the doors.

Cages with aviaries

Such dwellings are usually arranged for young animals. Walking is very beneficial for teenage rabbits. After all, these animals are naturally very active and love to move a lot. The dimensions of cages for rabbits, designed for two animals, and with an enclosure are usually as follows:

The enclosure is located along the back wall and has the same height as it - 60 cm. The cage and the paddock are separated by a removable partition.

Group cages for young animals

There are other types of similar structures. Of course, in this case, certain cage sizes for rabbits are also selected. Drawings are drawn up, for example, in such a way that the housing turns out to be:

• length equal to 2-4 m;
• wide - 1 m;
• with a front wall height of 50 cm;
• rear - 40 cm.

In this case, the back and side walls and lid are made of thick plywood, and the front and floor are made of mesh. The length of the visor is 30 cm.

Cages for California rabbits

This breed has recently become increasingly popular in our country. It's all about the very good adaptability of Californian rabbits to the weather conditions of any region. They have very thick fur on their paws. Therefore, they do not freeze in winter. For animals of this breed, housing is arranged in the same way as for any other not too large one. The optimal cage sizes for California rabbits are 120 x 60 x 60 cm.

Cells of N. I. Zolotukhin

This option has recently attracted great interest among rabbit breeders. N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding furry animals for more than 60 years and has independently designed two types of rather convenient and practical cages for them - three-tiered and pyramidal.

The main feature of the first option is solid plywood floors. Only a 15 cm wide strip is made of mesh at the back of the cage. Biological feature rabbits is that they go to the toilet in this place (70% of all feces and all urine are collected here). To prevent waste products from falling on the heads of animals from the lower tiers, the rear wall of the cage is made inclined. That is, the grid on the floor protrudes beyond the plane of the complex. The back wall is made of opaque polycarbonate.

The floors of the pyramidal variety of Zolotukhin cells have the same design. However, in this case, the tiers are simply shifted relative to each other by the width of the mesh strip. As a result, the complex takes on a pyramidal shape when viewed in profile.

Another feature of Zolotukhin’s cages are folding feeders. They do not spin on hinges or some complex device, but on ordinary nails. The size of Zolotukhin's rabbit cages is not too large - approximately 70 x 100 cm. However, the animals feel very good in them. When keeping rabbits in cages designed by this farmer, it is not necessary to carry out thorough weekly cleaning. It is enough to sweep completely dry floors from time to time. Manure is cleared from the back of the tiers from the ground 1-2 times a year.

Sheds

So, now you know what size rabbit cages should be. Drawings of such structures are presented on this page. Now let's see where to place the finished cells. Of course, you can put them right on the street. In this case, tiers are usually placed under trees. With this arrangement, in summer the animals will be protected from direct sunlight, and in winter - from the piercing wind. However, it is better to install cages in special sheds. This is what they call buildings with gable roof, the side walls of which are formed by the rear walls of the tiers. That is, the cells are installed in two rows with the facades facing the inside of the resulting room.

Shed doors are made with swing doors. They are often double. In this case, in addition to solid panels, a mesh door is installed. In summer, the wooden doors open. The screen door remains closed. As a result, the animals receive more light and fresh air. On the south side there is usually an enclosure for walking young animals.

Rabbit barn

It is not necessary to install the cages exactly in the shad. Protect animals from rain, snow and severe frosts You can also arrange a comfortable shed for them. The most important thing when drawing up a project for such a structure is to ensure that there are no drafts in it. Rabbits cannot tolerate them at all. It is best to make the roof of a barn pitched. In this case, it will be possible to dry and store hay on it. Floors are usually arranged slightly inclined towards the entrance. With this design it will be more convenient to clean.

Be sure to install several windows in the barn. For good development, rabbits need fresh air and plenty of light. Inside the shed there must be a corner designed for storing equipment.

Cages for young animals are usually placed along the walls. The rabbits' homes with queen cells are in the middle of the barn.

What you need to know

The required dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits, keeping queens and breeding rabbits during production must be observed. If you put a large animal in a small “room”, nothing good will come of it. Deprived of the opportunity to move freely, the animal will develop poorly. The discomfort in the cages also affects the rabbits' ability to reproduce. In addition, with high crowding, the risk of developing various kinds infectious diseases.

As you can see, making cages and even a shed for rabbits yourself is not at all difficult. Comfortable homes for these animals have a fairly simple design. The optimal size of cages for rabbits depends only on the body constitution of that particular breed.

Breeding rabbits in a country plot or country house requires a lot of knowledge about the lifestyle and habits of these animals. Much attention is paid to their diet and diet. At the same time, we should not forget about rabbit houses, since clean and comfortable housing is the key to the health and well-being of furry pets. There are many designs of cages for rabbits, made from a variety of materials with your own hands. The wooden structures brought to your attention can simplify the care of animals and will decorate the economic area.

Simple Design Rabbit Hutch

Due to the simplicity of the design, such a cage can be made with minimal experience in working with carpentry tools. To make it you will need wooden slats and bars, plywood, metal mesh, bitumen shingles and plexiglass. Despite the fact that this type of cage is not particularly complex, it looks beautiful and interesting, which all members of your family will appreciate.

Assembling the cage frame for rabbits

To facilitate the process of feeding animals, the cage is installed on an elevated surface, constructing an additional stand. The height is selected so that both adults and children can care for the animals. To have feed and hay on hand and not have to look for extra space for food storage, the frame is equipped with a spacious shelf.

Cages for rabbits drawings

For the support posts of the cage you will need a wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 60×60 mm and a height of 850 mm.

When cutting wood, do not forget process the edges of the slats. This will avoid splinters and increase the aesthetics of the rabbit cage design.

The base frame and shelf support are attached to the main posts. To do this, four boards are screwed into the upper part of the frame with self-tapping screws and at a distance of 372 mm from the floor. It is important to correctly mark and monitor the geometry of the structure using a carpenter's square and a level. The result should be a smooth, stable structure without distortions or crooked corners.

To make a cage with an additional compartment, a neat figured cutout is made in the front board of the upper frame. The cut out part is attached to the old place using a piano loop. A narrow hinged part will provide access to the inside of the cage in the future.

On the inside of the upper and lower frames, they are mounted as spacers additional slats. They eliminate the instability of the structure and serve as support for the flooring, so they require especially careful adjustment.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

In the corners wooden shields or boards used as a shelf and the base of the cage, make a cutout for the support legs. The shields are installed in their places, after which the work at this stage is considered completed.

Main compartment assembly

A rabbit cage should please the owner not only with its durability and reliability, but also with its attractive appearance. Assembling a cage for rabbits begins from the front part, and step-by-step instructions will help you understand in detail all the nuances of the work with your own hands.

Cages for rabbits drawings

At the first stage they collect door box. To do this, a rectangular frame is assembled from slats using furniture dowels and self-tapping screws. A groove is cut out for the vertical movement of the door. A sliding partition frame is made that is slightly larger than the height of the box. Dowels are installed from the outer surface, after which the door is installed in place by inserting the dowels into the prepared slots on the side jambs.

Compartments are installed from wooden slats on both sides of the opening. The rear part of the structure, as well as the side walls, are assembled.

How to make a rabbit cage. Photo

The eight slats from which the roof rafters will be made are cut at an acute angle. The rafters are assembled by fastening the pointed elements in pairs, after which they are finally fixed with self-tapping screws. After this, the brackets are removed and the rafters are attached to the base of the roof.

Triangular elements are cut out of a sheet of plywood to block access from the doorway to the roof. They are attached with self-tapping screws to the central rafters in accordance with the attached diagram.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

The roof is sheathed plywood sheets , cutting them according to the drawing. The rear slope is made with a cutout mounted on a piano hinge. The hinged roof section makes it easier to access internal space cells. To connect the central part of the front roof slope with the side elements, small sections are cut out in its corners.

After assembling the base of the rabbit cage with your own hands is completed, the structure is treated with drying oil, dried, and then painted in one or two layers oil paint. Despite the longer drying period, it will reliably protect the wood from moisture.

How to sheathe walls and roof

Cages for rabbits drawings

The inside of all the walls, as well as the door of the rabbit cage, are covered with your own hands using a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a metal mesh with a mesh size of no more than 25x25 mm.

First, the ends of the cage are sewn up, and then the front wall is mounted above the doorway.

To make the design convenient to transport, folding handles are screwed onto the sides of the frame support frame.

Install on the front board of the upper support frame valve for fixing the narrow folding part.

The latch is also installed on the cage door.

Decorate The design can be made using the figure of a rabbit cut from plywood. It is painted and then glued or secured with self-tapping screws to the front wall of the roof.

Protect the piano hinge, which ensures the mobility of the folding part of the roof, can be done using universal adhesive tape. Glued on top of the metal, it will prevent rust and ensure reliable operation of the part.

Using a stapler and metal staples measuring 8 mm or more, attach them to the roof sheathing of the rabbit house. bitumen shingles.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

Taking advantage special glue For soft roof, from a long, narrow piece of bitumen canvas they equip roof ridge.

cut out plexiglass according to the size of one of the side walls, after which a latch is mounted in its upper part. If necessary, this element will be able to protect animals from drafts and rain. The plexiglass is installed on the frame, securing it at the bottom with furniture dowels, and at the top by fixing the latch bolt in a pre-drilled hole.

Small ladders are assembled for animals and inner house. After impregnation with drying oil, the parts are painted and placed inside the cage.

After the paint is completely dry, the cage is transferred to permanent place, prepare provisions and move the rabbits into their new home.

Despite the fact that rabbits are not particularly demanding animals, it is still better to rely on the opinion of experienced people in the manufacture and placement of the cage.

The main criterion for choosing a place to install a rabbitry is the absence drafts. In addition, in the summer it is better for animals to be in the shade, so you will have to build a shed or place cages in a barn.

We must not forget that when breeding rabbits, you will have to resettle the young animals, keep pregnant females and males separately, etc., so you won’t be able to get by with just one cage. It is better to always have free space at hand, and the cages themselves should have walking areas.

Listen to the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, and you won’t have to correct your own mistakes and miscalculations.

Floor The rabbitry is best made from mesh or slats laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other. When using the cage outdoors, they also install a lower, folding floor tier made of boards.

The roof The cages installed in the room are made of the same material as the walls. Outdoors, the rabbitry is covered with waterproof roofing material. It is better not to use tin for this.

On the street, houses for animals are located on supports height from 0.5 to 1 m. It is best if inside the cage there is also a house with a cutout in the form of a “hole”.

Cells are divided into several branches, providing a passage for animals from one part to another, as well as hinged lids for cleaning individual “rooms”.

The dimensions of the rabbitry in which it is planned to keep the males are sufficient for them to roam freely. We must remember that males who lead a sedentary lifestyle can become infertile.

For every 3-4 females make separate spacious cage.

Baby rabbits kept in the same room with a nursing rabbit. At the same time, they keep one cage free nearby, placing the mother with the smallest animals there for additional feeding.

The best material for a rabbitry is wood - boards, slats, plywood, laminated boards. They make the power frame and roof. Depending on the climate and installation location, cage walls are made of mesh, plywood, slats or boards. During the work, special attention is paid to the finishing of materials so that animals cannot be injured by splinters, sharp parts of the mesh or protruding edges of nails and screws.

Rabbit cage sizes

The dimensions of cages for breeding rabbits vary widely depending on the size of the animal, breed, purpose of the cage (for males, females with children, rabbits, etc.).

For nursing rabbits The dimensions of the cages must be at least 1.70 - 1.85 m in length, 1 m in width and 0.6 - 0.7 from the floor to the lid. The cages are placed at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from the ground on trestles or supports. Animals weighing over 5 kg require rabbit hutches 1.3-1.5 m long and up to 0.7 m wide. In this case, the height of the rear wall should be 0.4-0.45 m, and the front wall should be 10-15 cm higher.

Young animals rabbits are placed in group rabbitries, where they contain from 8 to 20 individuals. From 3 to 5 cubs who are under 3 months old are placed in individual cages. For older animals, no more than 2 - 3 animals per cage are placed. In this case, there should be at least 0.5 square meters per individual. m of area, and the height of the rabbitry should be more than 35 cm. In group cages, there should be at least 0.2 square meters per rabbit. m, which must be taken into account when making a rabbitry and placing animals.

Cage sizes for rabbits. Photo

An adult requires a room with a minimum size of 1×0.6 m and a height of 0.6 m, but it is better to increase these dimensions by 20 - 30%.

The cages are placed in one or two tiers (the so-called shed). Depending on the size of the animals, the width of the shad is made no more than 2 m, and the depth - up to 1 m, placing the cages at a height of about half a meter.

For breeding, a double rabbitry is used with a queen cell - a removable feed compartment for keeping animals up to 1 month. The cage is divided into compartments by a wooden partition with a 17x20 cm hole.

The main thing is that animals in captivity feel comfortable, so it is recommended to follow all the advice on their placement and maintenance.

Cage designs for rabbits

A two-tier portable rabbitry makes it easier to care for and feed rabbits. It is enough from time to time to move the structure to a place with thick grass - and the animals are provided with food and a clean place to walk.

Photo of a cage for decorative rabbits

A wooden structure, on the roof of which there is a low box with a moisture-proof bottom, will allow you to grow seedlings or greens on the roof of the rabbitry. This solution is not only highly practical, but also looks impressive on the site.

Rabbit cage. Photo

A “two-room” house for animals with a common feeding area makes it easier to care for animals and allows you to increase the space intended for their walking.

Large cage for rabbits. Photo

Designs of cages for rabbits, in which animals have access to walk on the ground, are beneficial not only from the point of view of keeping the animals, but also from the economic side. If the cell volume is sufficiently large, its production does not require large material costs.

A triangular hut cage with an aviary for walking is easy to make. During the day, such a structure is placed in a place with thick grass, and at night the cage is removed to a stationary elevation.

The spacious rabbitry, designed for two places, has a presentable appearance due to its spacious design, flexible roof and painting in light colors. Black metal elements of door hinges and latches complete the picture.

A large summer house for breeding rabbits allows you to keep up to ten rabbits. The high door of the structure allows you to enter inside for feeding, cleaning and examining the animals.

A cage of increased depth, divided into two rooms, allows you to keep several individuals in each half. An enlarged courtyard provides comfort while walking and feeding animals. The contrasting coloring and copper fittings of the cage add elegance and presentability to it.

Cage for decorative rabbits. Photo

Rabbit cages installed at a height are often built in the same building as an enclosure. A common roof allows you to save material during the construction of a rabbit cage and provides comfortable and spacious housing for animals.

Rabbit farm rectangular type With pitched roof very easy to manufacture and provides all the convenience for animals and their care. A simple cell for rabbits can be made from wooden bars and slats, boards and wooden lining, and the roof covered with slate or soft roofing.

DIY Zolotukhin cells

Cages designed by a Russian rabbit breeder Zolotukhina have gained immense popularity due to their simplicity, low cost and ease of caring for animals.

The advantages of this type of cells include:

• sloped slate or plywood floor with mesh near the back wall;
• three-tier structure of six cells. Shifting the cells to the width of the grid in the floor makes cleaning easier;
• the possibility of arranging a queen cell in a regular cage;
• a specially designed feeder that does not require opening the door when dispensing food;
• low cost.

Improvements adopted by an experienced rabbit breeder-innovator bring the keeping of rabbits closer to the conditions in which they find themselves in their natural habitat.

Design Features

To make a cage for Zolotukhin rabbits, you can use wooden boards and slats, slate sheets, tin, polycarbonate panels, metal mesh.

The frame of the structure and partitions are made of wood, and the floor and roof are made of flat slate. The doors and a small part of the floor at the back wall are covered with mesh. The wooden structural elements are sheathed with tin to prevent rabbits from chewing them.

Rabbit cage size:

• cage width - 2000 mm;
• height of the three-tier structure - 1500 mm;
• depth - from 700 to 800 mm;
• doors - 400×400 mm;
• floor mesh width - 150-200 mm;
• the difference in the level of the front and rear parts of the floor is from 50 to 70 mm.

Drawings of Zolotukhin cells. Photo

Each of the three levels consists of two cages, separated by two board partitions, between which hay is stored. The floor, also known as the roof for the lower tier, is made of slate. The back part of the floor up to a width of 200 mm is made of mesh. Each upper cell is extended by the same amount relative to the lower one so that feces are removed onto the floor or ground. The back wall is made of polycarbonate and installed in an inclined manner.

Exact dimensions for making cages are not needed; the diagram given by the rabbit breeder is sufficient. This structure is a structure with a queen cell, so for the usual keeping of rabbits, the wall with the opening will need to be replaced with a solid wooden panel.

The queen cell door is not made of mesh, since the nest requires shade and shelter from drafts. To prevent the young animals from falling out when cleaning or feeding, a board 10 centimeters wide is nailed to the front of the shelter.

The design with a fenced-off queen cell makes it easy to expand the space for growing rabbits. To do this, just remove the board partition.

In winter, Zolotukhin installs in a cage queen cell-burrow. It is a wooden box with an increased height of the back wall. This allows you to create the necessary expansion in the depths of the rabbit hole. The hole in the queen cell is cut out so that there is no threshold between the box and the floor of the cage.

Dimensions of the winter queen cell of Zolotukhin cage for rabbits:

• upper and lower parts - from 300×300 to 400×400 mm;
• front wall - 160 mm;
• rear wall - 260 mm;
• opening height - 150 mm.

The feeder is a long tray that takes up 2/3 of the length of the cage. Its front wall is twice as large as the back wall, and the bottom slopes into the cage at an angle of up to 35?. The feeder is mounted on a rod hinge, which allows you to install the tray in the door. This eliminates the need to open the cage when feeding and makes it easier to clean the feeder from leftover food.

DIY rabbit cages. Video

As you can see, making a rabbit cage with your own hands is quite simple. At the same time, it is important to ensure the comfort and safety of pets, as well as to provide for ease of feeding and cleaning.

You can not only buy cages for breeding rabbits, but you can also make them yourself. The main thing is that the “home” for furry animals is as comfortable as possible, then the animals will grow quickly and gain weight well. Cages for domestic rabbits come in a wide variety, to suit every taste and budget.

What should the design be?

There are a huge variety of cells available for sale. The design can be either single-tiered or consisting of two or more tiers. Here are the basic requirements for the design of any dwelling for rabbits:

Cages consisting of several tiers have another name - “sheds”. Sheds intended for breeding, keeping young animals and adult animals have minor differences in design. But the general principle remains unchanged: the space is divided into zones using cells separated from each other by partitions. The number of tiers depends on the number of rabbits. Additional insulation is placed on the bottom. All wooden elements and accessories must be made from the strongest types of wood so that animals do not chew them through.

When choosing industrial cages, you should not purchase European houses; preference should be given to domestic ones, since other breeds of rabbits are bred in Europe, and housing for animals is made according to different standards. It is better to buy simple housing designed for Russian livestock farmers, or to construct cages yourself, for example, using the Zolotukhin method.

The size of the cage for rabbits is calculated depending on the breed and number of livestock.

Types of cells

It happens that a person has long decided to breed rabbits, but cannot choose a place to keep them. A novice rabbit breeder can easily become confused by the abundance of different types of cages. As a rule, in Russian farms the following varieties are used:

• Cages intended for breeding females;
• Premises for raising young animals until they reach sexual maturity;
• “houses” for adults;
• Premises equipped with an enclosure with the possibility of walking;

Each species has its own loyal supporters. Also, completely special cages are made for animals belonging to the Giant and Californian breeds. Depending on who exactly the home is intended for, the cells have different size and various internal organization. You can make a cage of any kind yourself using drawings and diagrams from the Internet. Also good ideas for beginner rabbit breeders, you can learn from the old Soviet magazines “Homestead Farming”.

Author's cell designs are also very popular. Among them, it should be noted cages made according to the Mikhailov method and housing for animals “according to Zolotukhin”. These cages for rabbits are much more convenient and compact than store-bought ones.

Cells designed by N. I. Zolotukhin

Cages developed by N.I. Zolotukhin are very popular among domestic farmers. Here are their main distinguishing features:

• The animal housing consists of three tiers;
• There are 6 rabbits living in one cage;
• The floor is made of wood or slate, there is no mesh on the floor, and there is also no tray;
• The mother liquor can be removed and moved from place to place.

Animal houses made according to this model are compact, inexpensive, and can be easily made with your own hands from scrap materials. They are also very easy to clean, which makes caring for your animals much easier. Such “houses” would be appropriate both on a small farm and on a farmstead with a large livestock. Making cells using the Zolotukhin method at home will not take much time if you have basic carpenter and carpenter skills.

Cells designed by N. I. Zolotukhin

Sheds for rabbits

Translated from English word"shed" means barn. A shed, in essence, is a structure of two to three tiers of cages installed under one common canopy. Here are the main features of the shads:

• Base made of metal or durable wood;
• Mesh cells;
• Dimensions 60x3 m;
• Automatic supply of food and liquid for animals.

One shed is designed for 500 individuals, but if the rabbit breeder builds it with his own hands, the dimensions may be different, it all depends on the number of livestock. Shad provides good protection from wind and sun; in cages of this type it is easy to maintain the required temperature and humidity. This is a truly universal home, suitable for both young animals and adults.

Important! If the shad is located on the street, the canopy must be especially strong so that street dust does not get into the houses.

Aviaries

An aviary is, in fact, not even a cage, but just a place fenced with a chain-link mesh. But, despite its many advantages, the enclosure also has a serious drawback: in enclosure conditions, animals can quickly become infected with dangerous infections from each other. However, many farmers consider an enclosure to be the most convenient home for furry animals. In order to make an enclosure, it is not necessary to search the Internet for drawings and diagrams; it is enough to drive pegs around the perimeter of the area and cover the area where the animals are kept with a strong mesh with small cells. But still, sheds for rabbits are better than enclosures, especially in regions with cold climates.

Awnings

Many rabbit breeders successfully keep their livestock under a shed. The canopy allows you to keep animals on fresh air, but at the same time the rabbits will be reliably protected from rain, wind and sun. The following requirements apply to the canopy:

You should also provide in advance the possibility of ventilation and protection from drafts, since rabbits catch cold easily, and a draft can cause mass death of livestock. The design of the canopy should be the simplest, but reliable. You shouldn’t look for industrial-made canopies on sale, since making them yourself will cost much less.

Bunk cages

If the livestock is small, cages consisting of two tiers are well suited for keeping animals. Below are their main features:

To make it easy to remove droppings, you can create an additional gap between the two “floors”. A litter tray is placed in this gap. If the house for rabbits will be located in a garage or shed, it is enough to cover it with a chain-link mesh. If the cage will be placed on the street, it must have solid walls. The outside of the tree can be treated with a composition that is resistant to moisture and mold. Structures consisting of two tiers are suitable for keeping rabbits of any breed, including giants. The main thing is to clean the premises regularly, otherwise the animals will often get sick and may die.

On a note! Two-tier dwellings are also suitable for keeping nutria.

Cages for rabbits with queen cell

During the calving period, females require increased attention. At this time, female rabbits can be aggressive, so they should be kept separately. For this purpose, special cells with queen cells are used. The design of such a house is by no means original and represents a kind of “nest” for a mother and newborn children. The little rabbit should feel as comfortable as possible. They differ in the following features:

• The premises are equipped separate place for childbirth and feeding of babies;
• Sawdust is suitable as insulation. The main thing is that they are out of the reach of animals;
• If the cell is spacious enough, the queen cell is placed inside;
• If the cage is crowded, a cobblestone base is attached to the front wall, which is then covered with mesh.

In regions with cold weather, an additional heating source can be installed under the floor. The main thing is to follow the rules fire safety. If the female is kept outdoors, the cage must have a canopy. Inside, complete absence is desirable metal parts and accessories.

If a farmer needs a cage for a female rabbit with a queen cell, the size of the home depends on the “dimensions” of a particular female. The main thing is that the rabbit should feel spacious and not cramped.

Cells with queen cell

Materials for making cells

To make a home for rabbits with your own hands, you can use almost any material. Which material to choose depends on the financial capabilities of the farmer. Plastic will be the cheapest, metal and wood will be more expensive. At the moment, domestic farmers prefer the following options:

• Wood combined with chain-link mesh;
• Polycarbonate, which is also used for greenhouses and greenhouses;
• Metal;
• Plastic.

If a metal mesh is used in the design, it must be secured using slats made of wood or plastic.

Important! All parts made of wood that are inside the cage must be free of sharp corners and jagged edges so that the animals cannot injure themselves. Do not use flammable materials, such as certain types of plastic.

Wood or mesh is usually used for the floor. Wood retains heat well, and mesh floors are easy to clean. Metal is not used to make the floor, otherwise the animals will be cold. If animals are kept outdoors, wooden walls can be galvanized for insulation and as protection from moisture.

How to choose a grid

Rabbit netting is one of the main expenses of a new farmer. Choosing a mesh for making a “house” is not easy. Here are the basic requirements that must be met:

• The strength of the material from which the mesh is made;
• Small cell size;
• The mesh must be securely fastened;
• It is advisable that metal fittings are not used for fastening.

Important! Chain-linking is not used to make a roof, because even the smallest cells will let precipitation in.

The mesh is used not only for finishing walls and fencing enclosures, but also for making floors. Thanks to the mesh floor, droppings will easily fall through the cells, making cleaning much easier.

It is better to buy cage mesh in specialized stores for livestock breeders and farmers.

Features of cell location

Rabbits are quite vulnerable animals, so their health and development largely depends on where the cage is located. Here are the basic requirements for the place where animals are kept:

If all the above requirements are taken into account, the animals will grow well and gain weight quickly. Also, cages and enclosures should not be located in close proximity to where dogs are kept, since rabbits are shy animals, and dogs have a pronounced hunting instinct. If the dog suddenly breaks free from the chain, he will certainly want to feast on rabbit meat, so you should not deliberately provoke the dog by placing animals near him.

For those who are just starting to breed furry rodents, it is best to use industrial cages. More experienced farmers can easily construct simple houses on their own, using available materials and drawings.