The basement is the lower part of the building, its foundation. It is made from basement bricks. The basement part of the building is laid out on a base consisting of foundation blocks (image No. 1).

Image No. 1. Scheme of the basement of the building.

Its height should not be lower than the height of the snow cover in the area. This part of the building, together with the foundation, experiences loads from the walls and from various atmospheric phenomena. It is affected by melt and groundwater and frozen soil. Therefore, the base material must withstand all this well and look decent.

Materials for making the base

The base is usually made of brick. Much less often it is made in concrete. The brick for the plinth must be durable and strong, wear-resistant and aesthetically pleasing. The following requirements apply to it:

Image No. 2. Red building brick has high water resistance and strength.

• high degree of rigidity and strength;
• resistance to weather conditions and moisture;
• frost resistance with low moisture absorption;
• standard sizes;
• adhesion to masonry mortar;
• environmental cleanliness;
• affordable price for many;
• beautiful appearance.

Many types of bricks were tested for compliance with these qualities in factory conditions. The main results are indicated in product quality certificates. The certificate is presented to the consumer upon his request. Main types tested:

• silicate white;
• red clay;
• acid-resistant ceramic;
• clinker.

Which brick to choose

How to choose the right type and brand of brick for the plinth? Let's look at a few of them in more detail.

Sand-lime brick is made by pressing a mixture of lime and quartz sand. This is a fairly durable material with high strength. And its water resistance is very low. It absorbs water very quickly and swells. It can be used as a brick for a plinth only in areas with a dry climate. In the middle zone it is not suitable for such structures.

Image No. 3. The destruction of brickwork occurs due to the expansion of pores during freezing.

Every person knows ordinary building red brick (image No. 2). It is molded and fired in special kilns. It has higher water resistance compared to its silicate counterpart, but is also able to absorb moisture. When it freezes, it expands in the pores of the product and can destroy the brick (image No. 3). Laying a plinth from this type of brick can be done, but the grade must be selected M150 or higher. If there is a lot of precipitation in a given area, then it is better to use M250 grade material.

Ceramic products absorb very little moisture, are resistant to temperature changes, and are good insulators of heat and sound. They perfectly resist the effects of chemical components from the soil layer and from atmospheric precipitation. Their cost is much higher than the price of sand-lime or red brick.

Clinker brick has the highest performance. It practically does not absorb water, is frost-resistant, has a quite presentable appearance, and has good decorative qualities. Some manufacturers guarantee its service life for 100 years. But its cost is very high.

Which brick is better is up to the owner of the future home to decide. The basement is often built from ordinary red brick. It is suitable for use in any climatic zone. Its price/quality ratio is optimal. When purchasing it, you should pay attention to:

• the size of the basement brick and its shape;
• surface evenness;
• no cracks or chips;
• uniform color.

Construction of the basement

Image No. 4. Design of the most popular brick shapes.

The choice of brick for the plinth has been made, and work on its construction can begin. To lay out the plinth correctly, you do not need any special experience. If the façade of the house is planned to be made of brick, the width of the plinth must be at least 51 cm. For a house made of timber, 25 cm is quite enough. The height is from 30 cm. The brick plinth is laid directly on the base using cement mortar. The layout is done using a red single clay block. Roofing felt is needed as waterproofing; roofing felt can be used. For every 1 m³ there are approximately 400 pieces of red brick. The top of the plinth can be decorated with a special block (image No. 4).

The construction of a plinth is impossible without a blind area. It is performed from the outside around its entire perimeter and partially protects the wall from moisture. In addition, several more factors of negative impact on the base can be noted:

1. The basement is always in contact with the ground and is therefore well insulated.
2. In any case, water gets onto the surface of the wall, the masonry material gets wet and begins to absorb moisture.
3. In spring, water from melting snow also wets the structure.
4. The lower part of the house must be especially strong because it is subject to heavy loads.

Conclusion on the topic

How to properly lay out a brick plinth, what is the general structure of the plinth, what is the structure diagram? Such questions come to the minds of future home owners.

You need to lay a base of brick made of red clay.

This is a common building material that is known to every resident. Don't forget about waterproofing between foundation blocks and the wall of the base. Otherwise, the material will quickly absorb water and, after it freezes, begin to collapse. The finished structure can be faced with tiles or stone. The finishing will additionally protect the entire wall and give it an attractive appearance.

It is recommended to choose red, solid, single bricks for construction. Its brand should be at least M150, and even better M250. It has a high degree of frost resistance and strength. A brick base will last at least 60-100 years, protecting the entire building from excessive dampness. Silicate products are completely unsuitable. They swell very quickly from moisture and collapse. The width of the wall is 1.5-2 bricks (38-51 cm). A reinforcing metal mesh is placed every 4 rows. The total height of the structure is at least 40 cm. The higher, the better.

How to make a base is now known. Buy the necessary materials and get to work!

You can’t choose a brick for a plinth without understanding what it is architectural element when it is needed and what requirements are put forward for it. Only taking into account these data can you choose the optimal brick for the plinth, taking into account all the parameters and performance characteristics.

Basement – ​​part of a building protruding above ground level. This may be a continuation of the foundation strip (called the basement part of the foundation), reinforced concrete blocks or brickwork.

The parameters of the base depend on the maximum loads. If the house has reinforced concrete floor slabs on the first floor, then the base must be much stronger than the walls, its width increases, building materials with suitable indicators are used bearing capacity. In all other cases, the size of the base may not differ from ordinary facade walls.

Often it is not economically feasible to make a plinth from concrete; brickwork is much cheaper. A separate basement is also installed when the basement is planned to be converted into residential space. Brick is much warmer than concrete, which improves the comfort of stay and reduces the cost of maintaining a favorable microclimate.

We have already mentioned one feature of the plinth - it must support the heaviest loads of all the architectural structures of the building. But that's not all - the base is used in the most difficult favorable conditions.

1. Proximity to the ground increases the negative impact of precipitation and groundwater. If the upper part of the wall is slightly wetted during rain, then all the water from the area of ​​the façade walls gets onto the plinth.
2. Due to frequent and intense wetness, it is extremely negatively affected by temperature changes from plus to minus.
3. The basement has vents for natural ventilation of the underground. This means that it, more than any element of the building, is exposed to unfavorable operating conditions.
4. If there is ground floor, then the materials must have low thermal conductivity. At the same time, the requirements for strength indicators are not reduced.

The use of various brands of bricks makes it possible to construct structures with the required thickness and height parameters in the shortest possible time and with small financial losses. Indicators of physical strength vary depending on the thickness of the base; thermal conductivity is regulated by the special characteristics of the brick or through the use modern insulation materials. To protect the surfaces of the plinth from the negative influence of climatic conditions, finishing of the walls is used. By the way, it also improves the design of the building’s facade. This factor must be kept in mind; not all types of bricks can be finished with finishing, and if it can be done, then expensive materials and complex construction technologies will have to be used.

Requirements for plinth structures are specified in SNiP II-22-81. They indicate that the use of stones and blocks made of cellular concrete, ceramic or other bricks using dry manufacturing technology is not allowed. This means that the assertion of some construction “experts” that hollow bricks cannot be used for plinths is unfounded. Listed in building codes and rules, types of building materials are unsuitable for plinths for one common reason - they react extremely negatively to high humidity. Under such operating conditions, a significant loss of load-bearing characteristics and accelerated destruction occur.

SNiP II-22-81. "Stone and reinforced stone structures." File for download

For all other types of bricks, the main requirement is compressive and bending strength. Modern manufacturers have mastered the most advanced technologies that make it possible to produce very strong hollow bricks, grade M 150 and more, from which they build load-bearing walls of two-story and more buildings.

Why can’t such material be used for the plinth of one-story brick or wooden buildings? If the load allows, feel free to use them for the base.

One more nuance. When choosing bricks, you need to take into account that the larger the area of ​​the plinth, the more force it can withstand. Based on the total load, the material of manufacture and linear dimensions are selected. As for the heat-saving characteristics, then to the base regulatory requirements does not exist.

What's the result?

You cannot install a base without knowing the total weight of the house, the height of the snow cover, the seismic characteristics of the area and other factors that influence the foundation and base.

Based on the maximum load, the strength parameters of the brick and the dimensions of the base are calculated. In practice, a brick of a grade lower than M 100 is rarely used for the plinth, but this is not a necessary condition. Two M 50 bricks can withstand almost the same load as one M 100, only it must be distributed over the entire surface of the masonry. The design includes a safety factor, which compensates for minor deviations from regulatory requirements. And deviations always happen during the laying of any architectural structure.

Remember that laying the base “by eye” is a very risky business. By the way, all residential premises must have a design, otherwise they cannot be put into operation. And without an act they won’t connect network engineering, registration is not given, such buildings cannot be sold, donated or bequeathed by inheritance. Legally, they simply do not exist.

As mentioned above, our recommendations do not apply to residential buildings; they should be built only according to the project, and in it all the requirements and parameters of the bricks are indicated. Let's consider cases of choosing a brick for a plinth only for non-residential buildings and outbuildings. What characteristics should you use to select materials?

Frost resistance

Bricks, depending on the brand and manufacturing technology, have this indicator from F15 to F100 or more. This means that the material can withstand 25–100 freeze/thaw cycles at maximum humidity. And moisture permeability ranges from 2% to 12%. State standards regulate the minimum period of natural wear and tear of buildings, it is equal to 50 years. If an F50 brick is dipped into water fifty times and then exposed to frost, it will lose approximately 30% of its original strength, which is considered a critical value. But the basement brick will never become completely wet; it is always plastered or protected with other coatings. In practice, F50 brand brick lasts much more than fifty freeze/thaw cycles.

Why do bricks lose strength during freezing/unfreezing and what does this depend on? During freezing, water increases in volume by about 10%, and the forces of ice are so great that no known building material can withstand them. The more water there is in the brick, the more microcrystals of ice there are in the brick, the faster the destruction occurs.

Strength

Determined according to GOST 530-2007, grade of brick for masonry load-bearing walls should be at least M125; with a safety margin, designers recommend using M150 grade brick for plinths.

GOST 530-2007. Ceramic brick and stone. File for download

Bricks made from many materials and using various technologies are suitable for these indicators, but some of them cannot be used in conditions of high humidity.

Let's look at one example. Mark M100 means that the brick can withstand a load per square centimeter of at least 100 kg and no more than 125 kg. The surface area of ​​a standard brick is 25 cm×12 cm = 300 cm2. One brick of the M100 brand is designed for a load of at least 30 tons.

We have provided the calculation so that you can more clearly imagine what forces different brands of bricks can withstand. Of course, these values ​​​​provide that the load is evenly distributed over the entire surface (bed), in practice this rarely happens due to the presence of air pockets in the masonry.

What types of bricks can be used for the plinth?

Name	Brief performance indicators
	Water absorption ≤ 12%, strength ≥ M100, frost resistance no less than F50. Most often used universal application. The front surface must be protected from the negative effects of precipitation.
	Water absorption ≤ 16%, strength ≥ M150, frost resistance no less than F50. used for plinths of light buildings without reinforced concrete slabs ceilings The outer surface must be plastered with cement-sand mortar or lined with durable materials. Afraid of mechanical damage.
	Water absorption ≤ 5%, strength ≥ M250, frost resistance no less than F100. By all technical parameters superior to ceramic samples. When laying a plinth, it is recommended to use two or more bricks wide as the outer face row. The surface of the base of this option does not need to be additionally finished with various building materials. The disadvantage of clinker bricks is their high cost.

Now, having an idea of ​​the requirements for the plinth and the technical parameters of the bricks, you can consciously select specific materials and begin laying the element.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a plinth

Step 1. Calculate the required amount depending on the width and height of the masonry. Take the approximate quantity data from the table.

How many bricks are needed for 1 m3 of base.

Brick sizes	The quantity and parameters of seams are not taken into account	Quantity including seams
	512	394
	378	302
	242	200

If you are working with bricks of non-standard sizes, you will have to independently calculate the volume of the base and divide it by the volume of one brick. The calculations are not complicated; there is no need to describe them.

Step 2. Check the horizontality of the foundation strip. If the foundation was made by responsible builders, then the deviation from the horizontal at the corners of the structure will not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily eliminated without additional operations during the preparation of the base of the first row of the plinth. You need to check the horizontalness of the foundation using water or laser level. Are there significant deviations found? You'll have to straighten the tape.

1. Secure level slats at the corners of the foundation in a vertical position. The sizes are arbitrary, there is no need to take long ones.
2. Beat off a horizontal line on one of them, transfer the value of the horizontal line to the second staff.
3. Pull the rope according to the marks, do not allow it to sag. Measure the distance between the rope and the foundation plane along the entire length of the tape. This way you can estimate the approximate amount of work and calculate the amount of materials.
4. If the unevenness exceeds 2 centimeters, you will have to prepare a concrete mixture; the spread is smaller - you can use ordinary cement-sand mortar. One condition - during the manufacture of the material, increase the amount of cement, it should be at least three parts to one part of sand.
5. Place the finished solution on the surface of the foundation tape and level it along the stretched rope. The work can be done by eye; in the future, the bricks of the base will be installed according to the level and all flaws will be eliminated.
6. It will take at least two weeks to harden. If the weather is very hot and dry, then the solution should be moistened generously with water at least three times a day.

Do not rush to start laying the plinth right away; strictly adhere to the recommended technology.

Step 3. Place two layers of roofing felt on a flat strip to waterproof the bricks. This is very important; without waterproofing, the base will quickly collapse.

Step 4. You need to start laying by laying two corners. The technology depends on how many bricks are in a row in width. You can lay corners from one, one and a half, two, two and a half and three bricks. If you do not have experience in producing such work, then practice. First lay the bricks without mortar, then work with mortar. The movements should become automatic; during training, constantly use control tools. Be sure to bandage, alternate spoon and butt rows. Now that you have experience, place the corners directly on the foundation strip. The height of the corners is 5–7 bricks. To begin with, the height is enough, so it is easier to control the correctness of the masonry and timely correct possible deviations in the position of the base.

Step 5. At the height of the first row of each corner, drive in nails and pull the rope. Make sure that the rope lies exactly on the edges of the bricks. At this point, the preparatory work on laying the corners of the plinth is completed; start working on the straight sections.

Further work on the base is no different from work on the wall; the rows are constantly being bandaged. If you are applying for external surfaces clinker bricks, then use them only on the visible side.

Beginner mistakes

Prices for building levels

Construction levels

The base is very important element buildings and the only one that cannot be repaired. Even problems with the foundation can be solved; there are special technologies for strengthening it. True, this will take a lot of time and is expensive. If the base begins to collapse due to incorrect calculations, then nothing can be corrected. We focus on this not with the goal of scaring developers, but with the goal of forcing them to very carefully follow all the recommendations of professionals and technologies that have been proven over the years. We will try to answer a few questions that novice masons often ask.

Is it possible to lay a mortar more than one centimeter thick to level the base? This need arises most often on foundations made of reinforced concrete blocks. Only competent specialists under the guidance of an experienced foreman can correctly install foundations from such materials. He must constantly monitor the position of each block using a professional level. If the variation in height does not exceed 2–3 centimeters, then it can be eliminated with a solution. But be sure to use a metal reinforcing mesh with a wire diameter of at least 5 mm. No plastic materials will withstand the load on the base; they are only suitable for plastering walls.

Laying out the solution

Is it possible to use bricks made without firing for the base? It is possible, but not advisable; we have already discussed this issue above. But if you really need to put these bricks somewhere, then they can only be placed inside the base; all sides must be covered with ceramic bricks. Accordingly, they can only be used on plinths with a width of at least two bricks, otherwise it is impossible to make correct harness and fulfill the described condition.

In what cases can you do without leveling the foundation strip with concrete mortar? This is a rather difficult technology, let’s look at it in detail.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Cement and base mixtures

1. At each corner of the foundation, the foreman taps (shoots) the values ​​by which the upper plane of the base must be raised. These measurements are made with a level. For example, on one corner of the foundation it is written +12 cm, on the second +20 cm, on the third +15 cm, etc. Such marks are made on all areas of the foundation on which the floor slabs should lie, in these places the base should face zero mark – floor level. Of course, the wide variation in the height of the foundation tape indicates that it was made by outright hacks.
2. Develop a preliminary plan for reaching the desired height. You need to start from the corners, then all the rows are aligned along them. Make a plan to solve the problem in advance. If, for example, you need to raise the height of the plinth by 15 cm in two rows, then this cannot be done using mortar alone. Place approximately 2.5 cm on the foundation with the obligatory use of metal reinforcing mesh; the upper beds of bricks are equal to the pure mass. There are cases when it is necessary to use bricks of different thicknesses; you will have to purchase them additionally. It is prohibited to use bricks split with a hammer throughout the entire thickness for the plinth; they can only be cut on a special machine with a diamond disc and water cooling.
3. After all the corners are made taking into account the measurements, begin laying the rows, while using a stretched rope to control the position. Let’s say right away that such work is difficult, and we do not recommend that beginners do it. It’s better to invite a professional for a few days, he will lay out the corners, and it will be easier to work on them.

What types of socles are there?

Depending on the position of the front surface in relation to the facade wall, the plinth can be:

• speakers. It is used if it is necessary to increase the load-bearing characteristics of the base; the plane of the element protrudes several centimeters beyond the plane of the wall. Disadvantage - it is necessary to take special measures to drain rainwater coming from the walls;
• sinking. The facade wall hangs over the plinth. It is recommended to use in cases where the base is made of durable building materials that do not require finishing;
• in one plane. The facade wall and plinth are located along the same line. This option is rare, most often on unsatisfactory outbuildings. The finishing of the façade and plinth is done using the same materials and using the same technology, or is not done at all.

What should the height of the plinth be? There are no special requirements, it all depends on availability and purpose basements and horizontality of the foundation strip. If the building does not have basements and the strip is smooth, then there is no need to make a special base. As for the advice “at least 50–60–70” and so on centimeters, you should not pay attention to them. The final decision is made only taking into account the architectural features of the building.

And one last thing. Don’t forget to leave vents in the plinths for natural ventilation underground space. If, of course, the house design provides for their presence.

Video - Laying the plinth

Often people mistakenly believe that the base is just the lower part external walls building. In fact, the basement is an above-ground continuation of the foundation and can rise 50-70 cm above ground level. And in buildings equipped with a basement, its height can reach 150-200 cm.

Thus, the base is a kind of transitional wall from the foundation to the load-bearing walls of the house. It is a barrier against moisture penetration into the building structure. Moreover, moisture can be either soil - rising along the foundation, or atmospheric - rain, snow.

At the same time, the base not only protects the house from moisture and cold, but is also part of the architectural design of the exterior of the house.

The design of the plinth has significant influence on the general impression of the appearance of the building. Houses with a high base look better than those with a low base. And if there is none at all, then the building will resemble a squat hut.

Thus, the choice of material for the base structure must take into account all its functional loads.

Since the base part is exposed not only to atmospheric influences, but also bears the weight of the walls, as well as all the loads to which they are subjected, the requirements for the material for its implementation must be quite stringent.

The requirements are:

• high strength;
• resistance to weathering and moisture;
• high frost resistance;
• environmental Safety;
• attractive appearance.

Most often in private construction you can find plinths made of concrete or brick. At the same time, the use of concrete for making a plinth is not recommended due to its inability to withstand the effect of a “capillary pump” - moisture easily rises from the soil to the walls of the house, due to the presence of interconnected pores in the concrete body.

Thus, the best choice for constructing a plinth is brick, which must meet not only all of the above requirements, but also additional ones.

In particular:

• it must have standard dimensions;
• have good adhesion to masonry mortar;
• have an affordable price.

Most often, the following types of bricks are used to construct a plinth:

• silicate;
• red construction;
• acid-resistant ceramic;
• clinker.

What kind of brick will make a reliable and beautiful base?

In order to find out, let’s briefly consider all the listed types of materials.

– it is usually used as facing material, as well as for laying internal walls and partitions. Sand-lime brick is a non-fired type of brick. It has fairly high strength and good sound insulation and heat transfer resistance. Therefore, structures made from it can easily carry a fairly high load, including the weight of the walls of a low-rise building.

But the weak point of sand-lime brick is its poor water resistance, especially with the regular presence of moisture.

Therefore, it is not recommended for the construction of basement parts of buildings that are constantly exposed to moisture, both soil and atmospheric. This material can only be used in regions with a dry climate.

- a widely known and also widely used material everywhere. It is produced from special clays by plastic molding followed by firing at a temperature of 1050 degrees. The end result is a durable and fairly waterproof product.

Since the base experiences quite high loads from weight load-bearing structures building, it is better to choose a solid brick of a grade of at least M150 for it. And if the building is located in an area with a humid climate, then M250. The frost resistance indicator should be at least 50-100 cycles. Such a brick will serve as an excellent foundation for the load-bearing walls of the house.

However, this material does not always have the necessary external qualities, so for laying the plinth you need to choose a slightly more expensive material, but one that has the declared geometric characteristics and does not have surface defects.

This type of building brick has an affordable price and is therefore most widely used.

– is a more expensive material than ordinary building bricks. But its properties fully justify the additional costs of acquisition.

Special types of clay are used for its production.

This clay contains:

• silica – about 60%;
• alumina – slightly less than 40%;
• iron and calcium oxides.

When fired, this brick acquires a yellowish tint.

The composition of the clay mixture provides the following characteristics of the final product:

• High resistance to chemical influences– this material is used for laying stoves, fireplaces and chimneys. It is also used to make floors in chemical production workshops.
• The material also has increased resistance to high temperatures, so it is often used as a lining for structures that need to be protected from aggressive environments.
• The geometric dimensions of the brick are highly accurate, which guarantees high quality masonry.

True, for masonry made of acid-resistant bricks, not ordinary mortar is used, but a special putty.

Clinker brick– produced using special clays and fired at temperatures up to 1200 degrees. Thanks to this, the output is a very durable product with a dense structure, practically devoid of pores. Therefore, this brick has high strength, frost resistance and extremely low moisture absorption.

This is the most expensive of the listed materials, but at the same time the most durable and beautiful. But, nevertheless, due to its high cost, it is rarely used for laying plinths.

More often it is used as a cladding, which can protect the material of the walls and base from adverse influences.

Thus, to construct the basement of a house, you can use either ordinary building bricks or clinker or acid-resistant bricks. Using ordinary bricks will save significant money. But in order for it to serve longer, it is still better to protect it by plastering, cladding facade tiles or cladding with facade panels.

The basement is, in fact, that visible part of the building that is based on the foundation and is a kind of transition from the base to the walls of the house. It is obvious that in addition to the load-bearing capacity, that is, the built-in strength potential to withstand the entire load from the structures located above, the base must also withstand all external influences, since it is located in perhaps the most vulnerable place. In this regard, any material from which this part of the building will be built requires a special approach to selection and effective protection during operation.

The basement belt can be constructed from reinforced concrete, rubble stone, building blocks or brick - all these options require certain labor costs. When building a private house, a brick plinth on a strip foundation is often chosen for the reasons that such a material is environmentally friendly (made from natural components), accessibility, including price, simplicity, or more precisely, clarity of construction, low thermal conductivity and good strength characteristics (naturally, when choosing high-quality bricks).

In order for a brick plinth on a reinforced concrete base to be reliable and last for many years without requiring any repairs, the work on its construction must be carried out in compliance with a number of rules. And let's start with what kind of brick can be used for these needs.

Materials for the construction of a brick plinth

What kind of brick is needed for the base?

If you plan to use brick to raise the plinth, then the first thing you need to do is choose the “right” and high-quality material, since not everyone is suitable for laying out this part of the structure.

Brick is made from various raw materials and using different technologies, so products may differ in purpose. Some samples are suitable for internal partitions, others for external walls, others -, fourth - exclusively as a cladding finish, and so on.

• Sand-lime brick is usually not used when constructing a plinth, since the products do not have sufficient strength simply due to the specifics of the manufacturing technology and the materials used for this.

Sand-lime brick is widely used for the construction of internal and external walls and partitions, but it is poorly suited for the base, as it is not resistant to moisture. And for what it’s worth, there is always an excess of moisture in the area of ​​the foundation.

• Ceramic brick can be called the most suitable material not only for building a basement, but also for building or cladding the external walls of a house. Several varieties are produced on an industrial scale, for example, building (ordinary) bricks for building walls, and facing bricks, which are well suited for decorative finishing plinth and above the façade surfaces.

Such bricks are made from specially selected types of clay and quartz sand, and in the process of high-temperature firing they receive the necessary strength and protection from moisture.

— Red brick M-150 has quite high strength and a very reasonable price. However, there is a drawback - the porous structure of such a product easily absorbs moisture. Therefore, unprotected brick quickly becomes wet, and at low temperatures it freezes and can crack, causing the supporting structure to be weakened. Such products can withstand 55÷60 winter cycles. In order to maintain the material in high-quality condition after the construction of the house, it is necessary (in addition to waterproofing and insulation) to provide protective finishing for the basement walls - a rack cement plaster or facing tiles.

— Red brick M-250 is more reliable, since plastic types of clay are used for production, which acquire necessary qualities after properly carried out firing, and stability finished products to external aggressive influences - incomparably higher, and the base may not even require protective cladding. Typically, such bricks are laid “for jointing”. This material is recommended for the construction of building plinths in regions with high humidity.

The marking indicates the strength of the product - it is on this basis that the brick is selected for a particular application. Specifically, the numerical indicator indicates the permissible load that the brick can withstand without destruction (expressed in kilograms per square centimeter).

For example, a brick designated M-100 is intended for the construction of internal or external walls of small one-story houses, but it is not suitable for multi-story structures or a basement belt. For these purposes, products marked M-200 and M-300 are mainly used, since such products are designed for high loads and pronounced resistance to moisture.

In addition to the strength grade, the brick differs in the frost resistance grade. It is denoted by the letter symbol F and a numerical indicator indicating the guaranteed number of deep freezing and thawing cycles that the material will withstand without losing its characteristics. Naturally, for the base, the higher this figure, the better.

Ceramic bricks differ in their size and structural structure.

According to geometric dimensions, bricks are divided into ordinary single, one-and-a-half and double - the linear parameters are shown in the illustration. (In this case we are not talking about facing bricks - there are a lot of different domestic and foreign standards, as well as generally non-standard options).

In addition, ceramic bricks are divided into solid and hollow (hollow).

— Solid brick has a continuous material structure, that is, an increased overall density, which entails an increase in its thermal conductivity. It is highly durable and is used to build load-bearing structures of a house, including the base, and for internal walls and partitions, but masonry from it will require more careful

— Hollow products are those that have in their structure different quantity blind or through holes rectangular or round shape. This type of brick has lower thermal conductivity, so it is often used for the construction of external walls. In addition, the overall density of such material is noticeably lower, which makes it possible to reduce weight building structures, facilitate the tasks of transportation and masonry.

Hollow ceramic bricks can be suitable for constructing the basement of small one-story houses. But for more tall buildings It is better to use solid products, as they have a higher resistance to heavy loads.

By the way, it is always necessary to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of the purchased brick. Hollow products also come in different forms - the percentage of “hollowness” in them can range from 12÷13% to 40-50%; accordingly, the permissible load indicators also vary widely. That is, you should choose " golden mean", in order to obtain possible "preferences" from the reduced mass and thermal conductivity of the base, but at the same time - without losing the required compressive strength.

Calculation of the number of bricks

When planning the construction of a plinth, taking into account its required thickness, length and height, the amount of brick that will be required for these purposes is usually calculated. It is clear that it is advisable to carry out such calculations in advance in order to include the obtained data in the prepared estimate and find out the amount required for the purchase building material.

The thickness and height of the base are usually multiples linear dimensions bricks When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account not only the above parameters, but also the thickness of the joints between the masonry bricks, which is usually 10 mm. That is, in order to calculate the number of bricks taking into account the seams, you should also add the thickness of the seam to the length, width and height of the product. As a result, for example, the following dimensions of a single row brick will be obtained: 260 × 130 × 75 mm (this also includes the thickness of the reinforcing mesh layer, if used).

A few words about the thickness of the base. In bricklaying, they usually operate with concepts related to the multiplicity of whole bricks or their halves: “half a brick”, “a brick”, “one and a half bricks”, etc. Knowing the linear parameters of the brick and adding the thickness of the joints to them, it is easy to obtain a “pure” value for the thickness of the masonry. However, this is well shown, with dimensions indicated, in the illustration below.

A- “half a brick.” (In practice, when building plinths, half-brick masonry is usually not used - it is too thin and unstable). Thickness (hereinafter – without external finishing) – 120 mm

b- “into a brick.” Thickness – 250 mm.

V- “one and a half bricks.” Thickness – 380 mm.

G- “two bricks.” Thickness – 510 mm.

d- “2.5 bricks.” Thickness – 640 mm.

Since there are other standard sizes of ordinary bricks (except for single - one-and-a-half or double - in height), the required quantity can be calculated only after the type of material purchased has been determined.

The table below shows the average calculation of the number of bricks per 1 square meter of masonry:

Thickness of masonry in “bricks”	Masonry thickness in mm	Brick type	Number of bricks per 1 m² of masonry, pieces
			- excluding seams	- including seams
"Half a brick"	120	Single	61	51
		One and a half	45	39
		Double	30	26
"In one brick"	250	Single	128	102
		One and a half	95	78
		Double	60	52
"One and a half bricks"	380	Single	189	153
		One and a half	140	117
		Double	90	78
"Two bricks"	510	Single	256	204
		One and a half	190	156
		Double	120	104
"Two and a half bricks"	640	Single	317	255
		One and a half	235	195
		Double	150	130

Most often, calculations are made individually for each specific building, taking into account all the parameters listed above. In this case, it is recommended that after counting the bricks, add a certain margin to the result, from 5 to 15%, depending on the degree of skill of the builder and the quality of the purchased material. This measure is usually taken with any building material: there is never enough stock, but a shortage at the most unnecessary moment will slow down the work process.

Let’s make the task easier for the reader – below is a convenient online calculator that will quickly and accurately carry out the necessary calculations.

Calculator for calculating the amount of bricks for building a basement

Enter the requested values ​​and click "CALCULATE THE AMOUNT OF BRICK"

Total length of base , meters

Number of external corners of the plinth

Number of internal corners of the plinth

Thickness of plinth brickwork

Plinth masonry height H, meters

What brick will be used?

Take into account the required stock?

A few explanations on the calculations:

• The total length of the plinth is indicated (including with internal lintels, if they are laid out with bricks). The length of the plinth along the perimeter of the building is taken according to EXTERNAL side.
• The number of external and internal corners of the plinth is required to make the necessary adjustments in the calculation of the total volume of the brickwork. In the input field external corners areas of abutment or intersection of masonry walls are also added.
• The calculation is made based on the selected type of brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints of 10 mm.
• You are given the opportunity to independently select the required percentage of the “reserve” of material.

Mortar for laying the plinth

The most important role for the strength of the basement walls is played by the preparation of the masonry mortar, since the reliability of fastening the bricks together in the masonry depends on it. Craftsmen recommend using Portland cement grades 300, 400 or 500, fine-grained sand and lime to make the mortar. Sometimes a small amount of clay is added to its composition. The masonry mortar must be plastic and homogeneous, and in order to achieve such properties, the sand used to make the working composition must be sifted through a fine-mesh construction sieve.

The solution is mixed using a construction mixer or a special attachment mounted on an electric drill.

An important point in the preparation of masonry mortar is the soil moisture at the construction site. And when determining the brand of solution, they usually follow the rule that in high-quality masonry all its components must have approximately the same grade strength. However, practice has proven that under favorable operating conditions of a building, masonry mortar M-75 or M-100 is sufficient for a brick plinth.

Table of proportions cement-sand mortar(cement: sand), suitable for laying foundations and plinths on wet soils:

Cement brand	Solution grade (kgf/cm²)
	M50	M75	M100	M150	M200
PC-300	1:5	1:4	1:3	1:4	-
PC-400	1:6	1:5,5	1:4,5	1:3	1:2,5
PC-500	1:7	1:6	1:5,5	1:2,5	1:3

Table of proportions of cement-lime mortar (cement: lime: sand), suitable for the construction of foundations and plinths on low-moisture soil:

Cement brand	Solution grade (kgf/cm²)
	M50	M75	M100	M150	M200
PC-300	1:0,6:6	1:0,3:4	1:0,2:3,5	1:0,1:2,5	-
PC-400	1:0,9:8	1:5,5:5	1:4:4,5	1:0,2:3	1:0,1:2,5
PC-500	-	1:0,8:7	1:0,5:5,5	1:0,3:4	1:0,2:3

Features of arranging a brick plinth

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of their planning and execution:

• If brick is chosen as a building material for the base belt, then the first step is to determine the thickness of this part of the structure. This parameter will directly depend on the material from which the walls will be built and the overall dimensions of the building. For example, for wooden walls the thickness of the brick plinth must be at least 250÷300 mm, that is, one or one and a half bricks, and for a brick building - 500 millimeters or more, that is, two bricks or more.

• The brickwork of the base must be done on a layer of waterproofing laid on the surface of the strip foundation - it will protect the brick from capillary penetration of soil moisture. As waterproofing material Most often, high-quality roofing material is used, but sometimes it is replaced with bitumen-based coating compounds, which are applied in a layer 1.5-2 mm thick. But rolled material in two layers will be much more reliable (and simpler).
• The brick is laid flat, that is, on the bed, so that each subsequent upper row of masonry overlaps the seams of the lower row. The laying is done using a cord stretched along the wall of the plinth. In addition, control over the evenness of each row must be done using a building level.
• Whatever material the walls of the building are subsequently erected from, the brick plinth may differ from them in thickness. Several options are possible:

A– The base (pos. 1) can be wider than the building wall (pos. 2), and protrude beyond its limits as a step.

b– The wall and plinth are of equal thickness.

V– “Sinking” base, the thickness of which is less than the thickness of the wall.

Depending on the option chosen, the design will depend metallic shimmer(item 3), which is installed between the base and the wall, and serves to protect the base from direct contact with water flowing from above.

Laying a brick plinth

After the obligatory flooring and fastening of the strip foundation to the surface, you can proceed to marking the basement masonry.

Prices for ceramic bricks

ceramic brick

The marking process necessarily includes an additional check of the foundation diagonals - they are measured using a tape measure and must have the same length, otherwise the structure being built may turn out to be skewed. If it turns out that the diagonals do not match in size, then you will have to straighten them with the help of laying the base, and it should be noted that this will not be so easy to do.

To do this, you will have to mark the masonry of the base belt on the horizontal surface of the foundation, measuring the location of its diagonals, starting from the outer corners of the base, located on one side of it. The found points must be marked using ordinary chalk, and then connected with lines. As a ruler, you can use a straight line or a coated marking cord.

Many craftsmen begin laying the plinth precisely from its corners, thus simplifying the further process of creating perfectly smooth walls.

Having chosen this masonry option, the first row begins with the formation of one of the corners, from which the first row is completely extended only to the adjacent corner, where also with high accuracy a 90 degree turn is marked. Next, the remaining angles are outlined in a similar way (with precise measurements of the diagonals between them). Well, then the entire walls located between these corners will rise sequentially.

To prevent the masonry from tilting forward or to the side, metal vertical corners are installed and firmly fixed in a perfectly plumb line along the laid out corners, starting from the first row, which sets the horizontal direction. These auxiliary devices are usually given the height of the future base, and the levels of each row are marked on them, taking into account the seam between them.

These guidelines will greatly simplify the masonry process, especially for those craftsmen who do not have much experience in this craft. According to the markings, a cord is pulled to opposite corners, with a guideline to which the bricks will be laid. After the laid out row is ready, the cord rises to the next mark, showing the height of the next row - and so on until the very top of the plinth wall. Such devices, by the way, will help control the thickness of the seams between the rows. But be that as it may, the use of such “means of small-scale mechanization” in no way relieves the master of the obligation to control each row of masonry at a building level.

After one wall of the plinth is ready, the vertical corner from one of the finished corners of the building is removed and rearranged to the one that is diagonally from it, and the masonry process continues. And so on until all the walls are laid out.

A few words need to be said about how the brick is laid, depending on the thickness of the wall and how it is tied at the corners of the building.

When laying out the first row, bricks can be laid along the foundation line or across, that is, with a spoon or a poke outward. The second option is chosen if the wall has a thickness of one or one and a half bricks. (The names of the sides of the brick are shown in the illustration above in the text).

The brick is laid along the foundation, that is, with a spoon forward, if the base wall has a thickness of one and a half to two bricks. Moreover, only the front part of the row can be laid out this way, and behind it the brick can be placed across the foundation. In addition, some home owners prefer, in addition to external, internal insulation, which can be carried out using polyurethane foam or expanded clay. When performing this type of masonry, a space is left inside the row, which is filled with insulation. In this option, in the front part of the row, the brick is laid with a spoon outward, then the insulation comes, and behind it the brick can be laid along or across the foundation.

Another masonry option is alternating spoon and butt rows, which makes the wall more durable.

For the construction of the plinth, cement mortar M-75 or M-100 is most often used, since it is most suitable for this part of the structure. When laying the first row, the solution is applied to the waterproofing material, and then to the row below, in a layer no more than 20 mm thick.

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay

If the base is being erected under a massive structure, then it is strongly recommended to strengthen it with reinforcing metal mesh made of VR-1 wire with a diameter of 3÷4 mm, with a cell size of 50×50 mm.

If the decision is made to reinforce the plinth belt, then you need to know that the mesh is laid before applying the solution, that is, the concrete mixture is applied on top of it. To prevent the mesh from shifting during work, it is recommended to fix it in several places using wire, which is inserted into the mortar of the joints between the bricks of the previous row. Some craftsmen simply temporarily press down the mesh by placing a few bricks on top.

There is no point in laying a grid between all the rows. Practice shows that the proper strength of the structure will be fully achieved if the “density” of laying the reinforcing mesh is one per 3–4 rows.

When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to the following points, on which the duration of operation of the plinth belt will depend:

• The seams of the masonry rows must be well fitted. There should be no empty spaces between the bricks - all gaps are filled with mortar. In addition, the seams must have the same thickness, otherwise the masonry will be sloppy.
• When designing a plinth, ventilation holes (vents) must be installed in it, which must be located at a height of 150 mm from the blind area, in increments of 3000 mm, and have a size of 150×150 or 200×200 mm. In the absence of ventilation, the walls of the closed basement space will begin to become damp from the inside, which will lead over time to the development of mold or mildew, and to the appearance unpleasant odor inside the house. It is recommended to close the ventilation windows with decorative grilles, which will protect the basement rooms from unwanted “guests” - birds, rodents, and other small animals.

Bricklaying is a whole science!

In addition to perfectly level walls, a very complex operation in brickwork is traditionally the creation of corner nodes. Their dressing can be done in different ways. All the nuances of the process are in a special publication on our portal.

Waterproofing a brick plinth

Waterproofing the base is traditionally the most important task, since both the durability of the base itself and the safety of the building walls from ground moisture depend on it.

Waterproofing should be carried out in two versions - vertical and horizontal moisture protection.

Vertical waterproofing

This process involves applying moisture-proofing compounds or roll materials to both the foundation strip and side surfaces the base, and sometimes the lower part of the wall of the house: this way you can protect the joints between these parts of the building from moisture. There are several ways to vertically protect the base:

• Coloring – this method is quite simple, and consists of coating surfaces with special varnishes or paints. The positive aspects of painting include the ease of work and a thin layer of applied material, which provides high-quality protection of surfaces from moisture. The disadvantages of this method are the short service life protective coating and, accordingly, the need for its periodic updating.

• It is produced with thick bitumen compositions, solutions based on liquid glass or special cement-containing mixtures, which are applied in a layer of a certain thickness and, after hardening, form a kind of moisture-resistant membrane or impenetrable “crust” on the surface.

Bitumen solutions have a certain elasticity and perfectly protect the surface. However, such a layer is not resistant to mechanical stress, so it is recommended to cover it with decorative cladding. In addition, such a base with a black coating does not look aesthetically pleasing, so in any case it will require additional finishing.

Liquid glass is a strong and durable material that is resistant to external influences, but its disadvantage is the lack of elasticity, which can lead to damage to the layer when the walls of the building shrink. In many ways, this also applies to cement-based coating compositions - they also clearly lack elasticity.

• Impregnating solutions , consisting of liquid polymers and synthetic resins, are designed to penetrate the structure of the material, in this case, bricks and the cement mortar that binds them. Moreover, such chemical components not only form protective film on the surface of the wall, but also fill the pores inside the materials, crystallize and create moisture a reliable barrier. Such compositions are capable of penetrating into the depth of the wall structure by 200÷250 mm, depending on the number of layers applied.

This approach is also convenient because carefully executed masonry after such waterproofing can be left without subsequent finishing - impregnation does not significantly affect the appearance of the base.

• Pasting the base with roll waterproofing . This method can be called the most popular, as it has advantages over the options described above.

There are a lot of rolled waterproofing materials of domestic and foreign production, made on a bitumen or, even better, a polymer-bitumen base. Their laying on the walls of the foundation strip and brick base belt is done by gluing them onto mastics (some brands also have a self-adhesive layer) or by fusing them with a gas torch.

The advantage of adhesive waterproofing is its highest reliability - high-quality modern roll materials, fixed in compliance with all technology requirements and protected from mechanical damage, are famous for their enviable durability.

Horizontal waterproofing

After the construction of the brick plinth, before the start of laying the walls, a mandatory horizontal waterproofing. Its main task is to prevent capillary “suction” of moisture from the base to the walls. And during heavy rainfall or periods of snow melting, there can be a lot of unnecessary moisture in the base area.

If roll waterproofing is selected, then its strips are laid in two layers. Often, bitumen mortars are also used to secure them, since it will be easier to further lay the wall using the fixed sheets.

Liquid waterproofing is applied to horizontal and vertical surfaces using a brush or roller, but most often both tools are used. Waterproofing layer should turn out to be continuous and completely sealed, but this cannot be achieved by applying the solution only with a roller, especially if there are internal corners in the base design. For work, a soft brush with a width of about 150 mm is used.

It is not difficult to calculate the amount of waterproofing material - just calculate the area of ​​the surfaces on which it will be applied and determine the number of protective layers. The packaging of any waterproofing material must contain information about the area for which its packaged quantity is designed - this should also be taken into account when making calculations.

See how foundation waterproofing is done correctly!

This task is quite large-scale and quite costly, but there is no escape from it. Why you need it and how it is carried out – read in a special publication on our portal.

Base insulation

According to research results, up to 30% of the house’s heat evaporates through an uninsulated base when its wall freezes. This inevitably leads to completely ineffective energy costs, an uncomfortable environment in living quarters, and in the future, to the appearance of dampness and the appearance of mold colonies with all the accompanying “pleasures.”

To insulate the base, extruded polystyrene foam is most often used, which is glued to the walls using construction adhesive on cement based, specially designed for thermal insulation operations, and then additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners with wide “fungi” caps.

Some owners, trying to save money, use regular polystyrene foam instead of high-quality extruded polystyrene foam, and this is wrong. Polystyrene foam has a much more pliable soft structure, so mice can easily gnaw through it, making passages and holes in it. In addition, under constant external influence of moisture and temperature changes, the foam gradually loses its shape and begins to crumble into individual granules.

Extruded polystyrene foam (such as Penoplex) is much denser and stiffer, and therefore not as comfortable for. And some modern models with carbon inclusions - they become insurmountable obstacles for mice and rats.

The material has a perfectly flat surface, so when correct installation They can even even out small unevenness in brickwork.

The insulating material is fixed on top of the waterproofing layer, but if for some reason the decision is made to abandon the latter, then the surface of the base requires preliminary preparation.

Preparatory activities include the following processes:

• Cleaning brick wall from protruding fragments that may form due to the masonry mortar remaining on it and hardening.
• Additionally, it is recommended to walk over the surface with a wire brush.
• After this, the walls are covered, instead of which it is best to use impregnating waterproofing.
• After the applied layer has dried, you can proceed to installation. insulation material. To do this, the adhesive mass is mixed and “fungi” fasteners, a hammer and an electric drill are prepared.

Penoplex prices

penoplex

Insulation work is simple and takes place in the following order:

• The finished surface must be marked, calculating required quantity. If necessary, individual sheets can be adjusted to size and cut. It should be noted here that if you have to cut the panels into three or four parts, then it is best to mount such elements closer to the middle of the basement wall, and secure solid insulation boards in the corners.
• In order for the bottom row of insulation to be installed exactly horizontally, it is recommended to attach a supporting guide at the bottom of the wall, at the junction with the blind area metallic profile. This element will help not only to correctly align the sheets and hold them in the desired position, but will also make it easier to secure them.

• Next, an adhesive mass is applied to the edges of the slabs, along their perimeter, and also pointwise in the central part of the surface. Moreover, here you need to take into account that after pressing the slab to the base, the glue must cover at least 40% of its surface, but at the same time, not protrude along the edges.
• The next step is to secure the insulation boards to the wall with plastic mushrooms. The caps of the fastening elements must be recessed into the insulation, that is, they must be in the same plane with the surface of the slab. Important - such mechanical fixation is carried out only for areas that are located above the ground level line. If some part of the base, after filling with soil, is below ground level, then the insulation is attached exclusively with glue - the waterproofing cannot be damaged by drilling holes.
• After completing the installation of the insulation, it must be protected from exposure to ultraviolet rays. For this purpose, plastering technology with simultaneous reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is often used. The same base plaster is usually used. adhesive composition. First, a layer of 2-3 mm is applied, into which the mesh is embedded. And then, after the initial setting, a second layer is applied so that the total thickness reaches 4÷5 mm.

The corners of the insulated base must also be reinforced using special aluminum or polymer corners with vertical stripes serpyanka nets, which are glued to the wall also with an adhesive solution.

• When the base adhesive plaster layer has dried, decorative plaster can be applied on top, facade paint, or cover the base with one of those specially designed for this purpose.

If the design of the plinth includes in-wall insulation, then for this purpose, as mentioned above, expanded clay or polyurethane foam is used, which fills the voids of the wall during its construction.

How to determine the required thickness of insulation for a brick plinth?

Like any other house structure, the basement requires the “correct” approach to insulation. This means that the thickness of the thermal insulation must provide such resistance to heat transfer that it complies with the standard indicators established by SNiP. In principle, this is what the calculation is based on.

Below you will find a convenient calculator that allows you to perform calculations very quickly and accurately. For greater clarity, several explanations on using the program are provided.

If you choose a brick for the plinth without understanding why this architectural element is needed, when there is no need to add it and what requirements apply, then after a while you will have to lay it over again. Only knowing all this will you be able to find the right ceramite. For this purpose, dimensions and individual characteristics are taken into account.

The basement is the lower part of the building, protruding above the ground. Often it is a continuation of the strip foundation, in which case it is called base part foundation. Brick plinth on strip foundations is the most best option with heavy rainfall and humid climate.

Why do you need a brick plinth for the foundation?

The base is also called aboveground part foundation. This is a smooth transition from the base to the main walls of the building. Whatever material is chosen during manufacture, the purposes for using the base are the same. Why do you need a brick base:

• Elevation of the building;
• protection of main walls from precipitation.

Such material has its own nuances

It is the part of the house where the upper part of the foundation is located that is exposed to the negative effects of rain, melted water in the spring, and snow during the winter. The main building should not be exposed to such moisture. A lot of moisture negatively affects the working life of a building. Together with low temperatures, water will cause great damage to the building. It won't last long.

In order to protect the building from the negative impact of excess moisture, a brick plinth is made, erected on a strip foundation. It is made from durable and at the same time moisture-resistant materials: ceramite or concrete. In addition to durable raw materials, they make additional insulation, isolate it from water.

With climatic conditions such as in Russia, plinths for buildings are necessary. Buildings without an upper extension of the foundation are useless and cannot stand for long. Without it, the floor is at ground level, which means that heat will go into the ground and there will be dampness in the structure.

This structure helps eliminate capillary leaks. To achieve this, there are several waterproofing layers between the upper extension of the foundation and the main wall. This part of the building takes on the whole problem. The wall itself remains dry and is not damaged.

In this video you will learn how to choose a brick for a plinth:

Material for the construction of a brick plinth

If you are going to build a brick plinth located on a strip foundation, choose the right quality material. Not all species are suitable for this.

Each type is made from different components using different manufacturing techniques. For this reason, they have different areas of application. Some are used for lining the internal wall, others for external load-bearing walls, and others carry high temperatures, they cover the fireplace.

Be more careful about your choice. Sand-lime brick is very affordable, but by using it you will only create problems for yourself, because... it is fragile.

Below is a list of materials from which ceramite is made:

1. Clinker. The most durable. It looks aesthetically pleasing and no additional finishing is needed. It is expensive, so it is not used often.
2. Dry pressing. Similar to ceramics, but more practical. Costs much less.
3. Made from clay. Not very aesthetic, requires additional finishing. Popular due to its frost resistance. It's inexpensive.
4. Porous. Easy. Does not require cladding. The cost is average.
5. Ceramics. It looks very aesthetically pleasing. The price varies depending on the manufacturer. There are voids.

Requirements for a brick plinth and materials for its manufacture

The main requirement is persistence. After all, this structure will have to hold the entire room. But there are other preferences:

1. The closer to the ground, the more moisture will enter the room. All precipitation falls on the lower part of the building.
2. Due to frequent exposure to moisture, sudden temperature changes should not be allowed.
3. This part of the structure should have vents for natural ventilation. For this reason, this structure is not used like the rest of the building.
4. Some do not use this room at all, and some dig out an entire working floor there. In this case, the manufacturing material should not conduct heat well. But in this case, do not forget about the required strength.

All construction requirements are specified in SNiP II-22-81.

Choosing a brick for the base

The use of ceramite with dry technology for the base is unacceptable. They not only have low strength, but also low moisture resistance. Laying a plinth made of this type of brick will lead to destruction. The choice of brick for the plinth must be approached responsibly.

There are many types of bricks

There are main types of ceramite that will cope well with this task. We will look at what kind of brick is needed for the base below.

Red brick

This choice will be the most thoughtful and optimal. Due to its characteristics, this ceramite is best suited for laying load-bearing walls of an underground floor. It will serve you for a long time regardless of the amount of moisture and other vagaries of the environment.

But water absorption into ceramite cannot be avoided. When purchasing, be sure to check the brand of material. Brand M-150 will not survive more than 60 times of freezing. Look for more frost-resistant options. Better buy the M-250 brand.

Why is moisture resistance and strength preferred when choosing between red and silicate ceramite? Silicate is fragile and absorbs moisture. Water gets into the cracks and pores of the brick. When it freezes, it increases in volume and begins to destroy ceramite from the inside. For this reason, it is important to choose the right material.

Even when building the main house with silicate, it is better to cover the upper part of the foundation with red. After all, the entire structure is supported by the lower structure, and for this you need durable material.

Red ceramite is also chosen for financial reasons. It is relatively inexpensive and finding it in every city is not a problem.

Important! When purchasing bricks, be sure to ask for documents for this material! After all, you need to make sure of its quality.

Red ceramite for the base is the right choice.

Clinker brick

This is the strongest brick existing on this moment. It has great compressive strength, lasts a long time and looks aesthetically pleasing. Does not require additional cladding. Moisture resistant.

It meets all the characteristics, but is not used as often because it is too expensive. Mainly used for lining stoves and fireplaces.

Sand-lime brick

Silicate ceramite is not the best choice. The manufacturing technology of this product will not allow the material to be moisture resistant. If moisture acts on silicate for a long time, it will swell and lose all its performance characteristics. After a while it will collapse. You can use such a brick if the climate is arid and there is not much rainfall.

But even when laying with such material, additional waterproofing will have to be done. Silicate is quite durable, so under these conditions it will last quite a long time. The design will be reliable. Laying sand-lime brick will cost much less than any other. In addition to your finances, you will save energy and time.

Acid resistant brick

Very complex composition. To make it, specialized clays with the addition of dunite are used. This is a mineral rock.

It is poured at a temperature of 1300 °C. The result is a material that can withstand harmful substances. Neither acids nor alkali will harm acid-resistant ceramite.

This type of brick is one of the most durable

Very durable. It is not affected by temperature changes and high humidity. Does not conduct heat or sounds. Does not absorb moisture. The size is equal to a regular brick.

Important! To lay this brick you will need a specialized putty made from acid-resistant powder. It contains reagents. It cannot be fixed with ordinary cement mortar.

All recommendations do not apply to residential buildings. They are built strictly according to plan. Each project specifies requirements for the quality of material for construction. The recommendations apply not to residential buildings, but to outbuildings. What are the main characteristics taken into account when choosing ceramite?

• strength;
• durability;
• appearance.

The appearance must be consistent with the overall construction. Depending on the material from which the construction will be constructed, the width of the base is also taken into account. Usually it is placed in 1.5-2 bricks.

For good strength, durability and moisture resistance of the base, install additional waterproofing.

Which brick is better for building a basement?

Usually, when building a basement, the choice is between red and sand-lime bricks. Which brick is better for the plinth?

When choosing, you need to be guided by the idea that it is very close to the ground. All melt and groundwater will affect the condition of ceramite.

Therefore, you need to carefully study specifications each type. These include: strength, durability and moisture insulation.

Remember! Cost is the last point that needs to be taken into account when building a basement. If you choose a cheap and low-quality option, think about your home in ten years. Repairs will cost much more than bricks!

Be careful when purchasing bricks. Take into account all the features of the climate and soil, then you can’t go wrong!

Calculation of the number of bricks

Calculating the number of bricks per plinth is not difficult. When drawing up a construction plan, take into account the required thickness and height of the structure. You will need these parameters to calculate the amount of brick required for the foundation plinth. These calculations must be done before construction. This is necessary in order to know in advance how much the entire construction and the amount of materials will cost you.

To do this you need to perform simple calculations. The thickness and height of the base are calculated according to the parameters of the brick. When calculating, take into account the thickness of the seams between the ceramites. They are approximately 10 mm.

To find out the number of bricks, you need to add the length, width, height and thickness of the seams. The result is the dimensions of one row, for example, 254 * 127 * 81 mm. There are many calculators for bricks per plinth on the Internet.

Don’t forget to calculate the required amount of bricks

Features of arranging a brick plinth

Before starting work, please read these recommendations:

1. First, determine the thickness of the base. It depends on the material from which the house and the upper part of the foundation are made.
2. Before laying ceramite, install waterproofing in the brick basement on a strip foundation. Thanks to it, moisture will not penetrate into the room.
3. The bricks are laid flat. So that the next row overlaps the previous seams. When laying, you need to ensure evenness using a level.
4. The brick for the base must be thicker than the material from which the load-bearing walls are built.

Take these features into account and avoid mistakes.

Base insulation

If you do not insulate, a large amount of heat will leave the house during frosts. This will be unpleasant for both the residents and the house itself.

It is best to use extruded polystyrene foam for insulation from the cold. It is glued to the walls using cement mortar glue. This is followed by additional fixation.

To save money, many people use cheaper material for insulation - polystyrene foam. He's too soft. Mice will gnaw on it.

Extruded polystyrene foam is dense and rigid. It is very smooth, so after the construction of the base it can be used to level the masonry.

Before thermal insulation, carry out preparatory work:

1. Clear the wall of protrusions.
2. Remove uneven surfaces with a wire brush.
3. Cover the wall with primer.
4. You can begin installing the insulation.

After insulation, reinforcing mesh and plaster are attached to the wall.