One of the best solutions for interfloor communication is a concrete staircase. Ready-made concrete products have quite categorical standardization and their use in atypical architecture is limited. In this article we will look at the process and technology of creating a concrete staircase with your own hands.

Principles for calculating concrete stairs

In order for the staircase to be comfortable for each resident, it must be calculated correctly. You, of course, can determine the parameters empirically by measuring the height and length of the steps of the real staircase that you use and find comfortable. But it is better to stick to a proven calculation method.

The horizontal plane of a step is usually called a tread, and the vertical plane is called a riser. The width of the tread should be sufficient for the foot to rest on it at least 80%. Stairs with a tread of 300 mm are considered the safest and most comfortable; when climbing stairs with wider steps, you are likely to lose your step, and a narrower tread will make the descent uncomfortable. Width flight of stairs should be at least 80 cm for comfortable passage of people and at least 120 cm if you plan to carry furniture or bulky objects up the stairs.

Dependence of the height and width of the steps on the angle of rise of the stairs

The height of the riser is selected depending on the width of the tread. For steps 300 mm wide, the optimal height is 150 mm. If you want to make the steps wider by 10 mm, you should reduce the riser by the same amount and vice versa.

It is believed that the sum of the double height of the riser and the width of the tread should be equal to the average human step - 400-600 mm. This indicator is individual and depends on the person’s height, so if children live in the house, make the stairs safer by increasing the tread and reducing the width of each step.

Knowing the optimal riser height, divide the height difference between floors by this value, and you will get the number of steps in the staircase. The fractional remainder of the division is the height of the first frieze step. By multiplying the number of steps by the width of the tread, you will determine the length of the horizontal projection of the flight of stairs and determine whether the flight of stairs fits in the space allocated for it.

If the flight of stairs does not fit, you can make it shorter by increasing the angle of elevation. The most convenient and safest slope is considered to be a staircase slope of 26-37°; steeper stairs are more difficult to climb, and with a slope over 45°, descent is only possible backwards. To determine the angle of the stairs, use the model of a right triangle, in which the legs are the tread and the riser. You can calculate the angle by dividing the height of the step by its width and using the table of tangent angle values.

Determining the angle of inclination of the stairs by the height and width of the steps

If you do not want to sacrifice comfort, do not change the width and height of the steps. Instead, divide the span with an inter-flight platform, make the 5-6 lower steps winders, or build a radial spiral staircase. Please note that in this case the width of the step at its most bottleneck should not be less than 100 mm.

Rules for reinforcement of staircases

A concrete staircase is a self-supporting structure that requires additional support only if the angle of rotation of the flight exceeds 180°. Otherwise, in the central part of the monolithic structure, the fracture load will exceed the standard values ​​and compensation will be required - fastening to the walls or the construction of support columns.

The main load in a concrete staircase falls on the reinforcement, the quantity of which is record-breaking in comparison with other reinforced concrete products - from 1.7 to 3% of the cross-section along the length of the span and up to 0.8% of the cross-section along the width. Reinforcement grade ST-5 is laid along the span with a step between the rods:

• 120 mm with a rod diameter of 10 mm;
• 160 mm with a diameter of 12-14 mm;
• 180 mm with a diameter of 16 mm;
• 200 mm with a diameter over 18 mm.

Reinforcement in the lateral projection is performed in increments of 250-300 mm. Reinforcement of platforms is carried out in increments of 200 mm in each direction.

The fastening of reinforcement to embedded elements in the walls is carried out not so much to provide additional support, but rather for the sake of the solidity of the structure and to avoid the appearance of cracks during settlement of the building. However, the staircase monolith must be rigidly attached to the floors by releasing 60-80 mm of embedded reinforcement.

The reinforcement forms a mesh, folded without a gap and placed on plastic clamps that regulate the protective layer of concrete 3-5 cm from each edge. Double-row reinforcement is sufficient for stairs with 18 steps; longer spans will require an additional third row of longitudinal reinforcement located 5-6 cm above the main mesh.

At the crosshairs, the mesh is tied with wire or nylon clamps. Each reinforcement bar must be continuous along its entire length or width, but this is not always possible on long spans or radius stairs. Therefore, it is allowed to splice embedded elements:

• viscous with an overlap of 24 nominal diameters;
• welding with a one-sided seam with an overlap of 12 diameters;
• welding with a double-sided seam with an overlap of 6 diameters.

The steps do not need reinforcement, but to protect them from chipping it is reasonable to use a 4x50 mm steel mesh under a 2 cm layer of concrete.

Installation of formwork

Formwork for stairs is simpler than it might seem. First, a gutter is installed from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, strictly horizontal in diameter and with vertical walls, fastened together with straps, one for each step. The role of the walls of the gutter can be performed by adjacent walls. On the inner surface of the walls, a thicknesser is used to mark the height of the ramp - the load-bearing slab of the staircase, which is equal to the thickness of the reinforcement plus the upper and lower protective layer. Next, using a ruler, and for a radius staircase - a thread of a fixed length, the vertical edges of the steps are marked on the drawn line. The length of the inclined segment is equal to the square root of the sum of the squares of the height and length of the steps (Pythagorean law).

Vertical lines are drawn along the marks made, on which the height of the steps is marked. To check, you should set aside at a new mark horizontal line and measure the distance between the points of intersection with the vertical and the inclined line of the ramp: it should be equal to the length of one step.

According to the applied marks, the formwork boards of the steps are installed vertically, securing them to the walls of the gutter, the top of each step remains open. Adjacent boards are fastened with wedge-shaped spacers, one for every 80 cm of span width. The wide part of the wedge is attached at the end to the top board, the narrow part is placed on the upper edge of the bottom one. Particular attention should be paid to the walls of the gutter; they will bear the main load.

The formwork is supported from below with scaffolds or telescopic racks with permissible load up to 800 kg. The number of racks is one for every 1.2 m 2 of the ramp surface. To install supports, 40x40 mm transverse bars are screwed to the bottom of the formwork from below to form something like an inverted ladder.

Pouring the stairs

The pouring of the flight of stairs between floors is carried out in one stage. You cannot prepare such a quantity of concrete manually, and you cannot vouch for the quality of the homemade mixture. Therefore, you will have to calculate the internal volume of the formwork, equal to the volume of the ramp plus the volume of one step, multiplied by their number. It is recommended to order concrete grade B30 or higher with a reserve of at least 10% of the original volume to account for losses during transportation.

Pouring the stairs begins with the lower steps with gradual advancement as the formwork is filled and the surface is leveled. Concrete must be compacted and, upon completion of pouring, vibrated. Subsidence of the mixture on the steps after shrinkage can be eliminated by topping up immediately or by grouting with M300 cement mortar on grade 500 cement the next day.

Concrete gains sufficient strength within 14 days. During the drying period, it is necessary to moisten the surface to avoid cracks. After two weeks, the formwork is removed and finishing work begins.

Finishing work: how to simplify cladding

There are many options for cladding the stairs, ranging from simple painting to laying special marble slabs. It is only important to give a few tips that will significantly simplify further improvement.

Tip 1. Prepare the formwork carefully. Up to complete sealing of cracks and complete puttying. Formwork is a form, and if its surface is perfectly flat, then after dismantling it will only be necessary to eliminate minor defects in the concrete to obtain an absolutely smooth coating.

Tip 2. Iron the steps the next day after pouring. If the formwork is installed correctly, in the future all that remains is to sand the edges a little.

Tip 3. Provide embedded elements for railings and fences in advance. This will not only simplify their installation, but will also not compromise the strength of the structure.

Tip 4. Don't skimp on spacers and formwork support. Even a slight bend or dent will ruin the appearance.

Tip 5. Make steps of the same height with the possible exception of the frieze.

Tip 6. Start finishing the stairs only after complete renovations in the house.

The porch at the entrance to the house is as important a part of the entire structure as Entrance door, For example. Often, the construction of concrete steps is carried out at a single stage of building a house. But, there are times when there is a need to do this after the house is built.

In such situations rational decision the stair steps will be filled from. This process is characterized by a number of sequential actions, following which you can cope with the task yourself.

The first step is to make a drawing of the project with details drawn. This will make your work easier, since you will see in front of you a detailed picture of the future concrete steps for.

The building's classic entrance with steps is located on the front side. Its task is to ensure comfortable passage, as well as harmonious combination With general view the buildings. Therefore, it is very important to choose the right form. It should not only be functional, but also become, to a certain extent, part of the design of the front entrance to the house. Steps in the shape of a semicircle or trapezoid look great.

The choice of shape and size of the structure directly depends on the dimensions of the building. If you have a small, compact house, then the porch should be appropriate. Traditional porch in the shape of a square or rectangle the best way suitable for small houses. Concrete steps and a porch of the same shape and size can be built as an additional entrance to the house from the rear.

Making concrete steps

Calculations

The progress of construction of the structure depends on the size of your future concrete steps. For buildings of this type There are specially prescribed SNiP standards, according to which a flight of stairs must be reliable, durable and easy to use.

To make the correct calculation of concrete steps with your own hands, pay attention to a number of rules:

After detailed plan Once all the parameters have been calculated, you can proceed with the construction of concrete steps to the house.

Tools and building materials

If you are planning to purchase ready-mixed concrete, you need to know its volume. To prepare the solution yourself, you must proceed from the consumption parameters of the mixture for preparing 1 cubic meter concrete.

You will need:

• – 340 kg;
• sand – 1.02 m3;
• crushed stone - 0.86 m3.

Note. To strengthen the porch structure, use reinforcement to create steps.

Materials for making concrete steps:

• Sheets and boards 2 cm thick and 20 cm wide, for formwork.
• Bars 40 x 40 mm for installing stiffeners.
• Nails for fixing boards.
• Metal reinforcement to strengthen the frame 6.5 - 1 2 mm.
• material.
• Concrete mortar or components for its preparation.
• Decoration Materials.

Tools:

• Vibrating machine to increase the density of concrete.
• Shovel and bayonet shovels.
• Concrete mixer.
• Electric saw.
• Putty knife.
• Construction tape and level.

Construction site preparation

If the construction of the porch and the simultaneous installation of concrete steps occurs at the initial stage of building a house, then preparing the site will not take much time. It is enough to clear the area of ​​dirt and debris.

If it is necessary to replace an obsolete structure without a foundation with a new one, you must adhere to the following procedure:

• Preparing a hole for the base of the porch. The depth of the pit should be 20 - 30 degrees deeper than the freezing point of the soil. These indicators differ in different territories. The minimum depth for small steps should be half a meter. The sides of the pit for the foundation should be 25 cm higher than the dimensions of the site for building the porch.
• Preparing a recess at the base of the building for mutual reinforcement of concrete steps with reinforcement.
• Forming a “pillow” of sand and gravel at the bottom of the pit under the foundation. Sand is poured in a layer of 15 cm and moistened. Then fill the gravel with a layer of 20 cm and compact it. At the end, a ten-centimeter layer of sand is again formed. All layers are moistened abundantly with water. This pillow will provide reliable protection steps from the destructive effects of groundwater.
• Laying for waterproofing the structure.
• Formation of a reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 10 x 10 cm.
• Filling the site with concrete mortar. Upon completion of the coating, the solution must be pierced with a metal rod to release air bubbles.

Note . In order for the foundation under the porch with steps to become stronger, you need to wait about a week.

Formwork equipment

After completing the work with the sand and gravel cushion, you can begin creating the formwork for the concrete steps. It is important to remember that the frame must be strong enough and reliable, taking into account the fact that it must withstand the weight of the concrete solution. The boundaries of the frame must correspond to the dimensions of the planned steps. To create formwork, use boards or.

The sequence of stages for creating formwork is as follows:

To ensure that the formwork can support the weight of the concrete solution, strengthen the sides of the frame. The timber is excellently suited for the role of stiffeners. Using boards that match the size and shape of the riser, the formwork is assembled. Nails act as fasteners. The bottom edge of the boards is formed at a slope to ensure a flat concrete surface.

The formwork for making concrete steps is created near the base of the house at a distance of 1 cm. Spacers are used to secure the structure, and stakes are placed to prevent it from moving. Fastening elements are immersed into the ground at least 25 cm with an installation step of 45 - 50 cm. The gaps must be covered with earth and thoroughly compacted.

Note . Plywood formwork is formed at a level of 30 cm above the height of the flight of stairs.

Before you start pouring concrete into the prepared foundation pit, you need to cover it vapor barrier material, which is roofing material, after which a sealant is applied. The formwork is treated with a lubricant with a special composition to prevent concrete from sticking to boards and plywood.

Reinforcing concrete steps will help ensure the strength of the structure and extend its life. Metal rods are cut to specific sizes and fastened with wire. The length of the rods should not exceed the width of the steps, but on the contrary, be 4–5 cm shorter. The step for installing the reinforcement is 15 cm. In order to save concrete consumption, stones and crushed bricks are used, which are laid between the reinforcement.

To make the process of constructing a porch at your house faster, use the service of ordering a concrete mixer. Flood concrete mortar necessary from the bottom step. Very important point is the need to use the solution immediately after preparation. This is done in order to preserve its original properties. Each subsequent poured layer must be compacted so that air bubbles come out. Otherwise, the concrete structure will begin to quickly collapse.

Bricks and stones that protrude above the surface are pushed inside using a shovel. The quality of concrete pouring work will be checked using building level. The next layer of concrete is poured only after the previous layer has completely hardened.

Upon completion of the work, the formwork is left for a week until the structure completely hardens. If the workflow occurs in summer heat, the concrete solution must be moistened with water to avoid the formation of cracks. Use a hammer to remove the formwork. To do this, gently tapping and detaching the plywood and boards. If necessary, concrete porch steps can be sanded.

How to finish concrete steps on a porch?

Finishing the steps of the porch can begin a month after the formwork is removed. During this period of time, the solution will completely set and harden.

There are the following design options for concrete steps for a porch:

• Coloring. This is the easiest and surest way to make a flight of stairs attractive.
• Laying pebbles. This option looks very nice. From pebbles you can lay out any patterns that your imagination is capable of. This should be done at the stage of pouring the concrete solution.
• Porcelain tiles or clinker tiles. Experts in this field believe that the best solution is clinker tiles, which are highly durable, resistant to various damages, and also have an anti-slip coating.

Whatever design you choose for the porch steps, it is important that it blends harmoniously with the exterior of the house.

Monolithic concrete stairs are the strongest and most durable. Therefore, it is it that is most often present in capital concrete or brick houses with several floors. The “life” of such a concrete structure without repair is calculated in decades. Timely repairs can make it almost eternal. At the same time, despite its monumentality, making a concrete staircase yourself is not at all difficult. Let's consider all the steps that need to be taken to build a monolithic concrete staircase, step by step.

If you want to understand in more detail, then read on.

Stage #1. Choosing the type of staircase

First you need to choose the shape and type of staircase design. By design, all monolithic concrete stairs can be divided into straight (single-flight and double-flight) and spiral (spiral).

The simplest option is a straight single-flight staircase inscribed between two walls. In this case, the end parts of the stairs, as such, are absent and the formwork elements are attached directly to the walls.

It is more difficult to build a staircase supported by only one wall. To form the free end of such a staircase, one side part is added to the formwork structure.

Exist marching stairs without supports on the walls, that is, they rest only on two points - the upper and lower ceilings. To build such a staircase, it is necessary to assemble formwork with two side parts.

Despite the simplicity of the device, it is not always possible to build a single-flight staircase of the required height in an ordinary house. Or rather, there is not enough space to install it. Then they build a two-flight staircase, the flights of which are located among themselves at the required angle (traditionally 90°). Such designs come with interflight platforms or winder steps.

However, the most decorative (but also difficult to implement!) among monolithic staircases are spiral structures. The difficulty lies in the manufacture of irregularly shaped formwork that can form a curved staircase. For such formwork, many custom-made curved and bent panels are used. Also labor-intensive is knitting an irregularly shaped frame.

Spiral staircases can rest on one wall or be located at a distance from the walls, that is, have two side faces of their own.

Thus, for a home craftsman who does not want to use the services of professionals, it is better to prefer a straight single-flight staircase for construction.

Stage #2. Design calculation

Before starting construction of the staircase, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary calculation of all its elements. And develop a drawing indicating the dimensions of the structure, the number of steps, their width and height.

Climbing angle

The first important characteristic is the angle of ascent (inclination), which determines the height and length of the stairs. Given the same height, a staircase with a rise angle of 25° will always be longer than a staircase with an angle of 35° or 45°. For example, a staircase with an angle of 25° and a height of 3 m forms a projection of a span equal to 6.4 m. A staircase of the same height with an angle of 35° - a projection of a span of 4.3 m. A staircase with an angle of 45° - a projection of a span of 3 m.

In other words, to build a staircase with a span angle of 25°, it is necessary to spend 2.35 times more materials than to build a staircase with an angle of 45° (with the same height of both structures).

Step sizes

Having chosen the height and angle of inclination of the stairs, you need to break the structure into steps. Optimal dimensions: step height – 16-20 cm, width – 27-30 cm.

If you make steps higher than 22 cm, then it will be difficult to climb them, especially for older people. People accustomed to the traditional step of steps will stumble and fail to reach the next step when climbing. There is a risk of falling while descending. Too low steps (below 15-14 cm) are also inconvenient. An adult will “mince” along them. Although they are safer for older people. They are also suitable for children.

As for the width of the steps, it is unreasonable to make them less than 25 cm. The foot will slip when stepping onto the tread. A step width greater than 31-32 cm will force a person to lengthen his step in order to get to the next step.

When choosing the size of a step, you can use the formula: 2H + L = 60-64 cm. In this case, H is the height of the step (riser), L is the width of the step (tread). For example, the above figures for optimal sizes fit perfectly into the calculations: 2 x 16 cm + 30 cm = 62 cm.

Stair width

The width of the staircase usually depends either on the distance between the walls where it needs to be fitted, or on the availability free space. It is undesirable to choose a width of less than 80 cm. This is too narrow a staircase; going up (or down) it will feel like walking through a tunnel. In addition, it is inconvenient (or impossible) to carry furniture along such stairs. The optimal width is more than 0.9 m.

The calculations of the staircase design are described in detail in the video:

Stage #3. Formwork assembly

After all the calculations, it’s time to create the future outlines of the stairs. That is, to build formwork into which concrete will be poured in the future.

Assembling the formwork is the most difficult stage in the construction of a staircase. It requires scrupulous, careful work with precise alignment of all pre-calculated dimensions of the structure. Any mistake at this stage can lead to failure of the entire construction project (the shape of the structure, its dimensions will be disrupted, and the surface will be inconvenient for subsequent finishing).

To build the formwork you will need:

• waterproof plywood (thickness 12-18 mm) or edged board (thickness at least 30 mm) - for the lower part of the formwork (bottom), edging and risers;
• waterproof plywood (thickness 6.5-9 mm) - for curved sections (if necessary);
• boards (thickness 50 mm, width 150-170 mm) or support bars 100x100 mm - for supports;
• bars 100x100 mm - for connecting sheets of plywood or boards to each other;
• metal corners, wood screws (3.5 mm) - for fastening.

Wooden formwork elements in contact with concrete must be absolutely smooth. Then the concrete surface after hardening will be smooth, practically not requiring finishing. Therefore, the sides of the boards that are planned to be placed on the inside of the formwork must first be sanded. If smooth plywood is used, then no preliminary leveling actions are necessary.

The formwork is assembled as follows:

1. Place the lower part of the formwork, which will hold the entire mass of concrete. To do this, you can use dimensional sheets of plywood or boards. They are tightly fastened to each other using bars secured with outside formwork (you can use ready-made wooden panels). From below, the lower part of the formwork is supported by boards or support bars. The pitch of the supports must coincide with the pitch of the steps.

Fastening the formwork elements is usually done using self-tapping screws rather than nails. The fact is that after the concrete hardens, the formwork will have to be removed, which is easy to do by unscrewing the screws. It is more difficult to remove nails, so they try not to use them for formwork.

2. The side edges of the stairs are limited by edging - plywood or edged boards. The edging is also reinforced with boards (bars) with outside, since on its own it will not be able to withstand the pressure of concrete. The boards are securely fastened to the flange, especially if they were set at an angle. At this stage, the structure is usually reinforced (see stage #4).

3. Install the boards (plywood) of the risers, securing them to the flange (or to the wall) using metal corners.

4. All joints of formwork elements (plywood, boards) are covered with cement-sand mortar or the corners are leveled grinder, plane. Such alignment of the formwork walls will allow you to obtain a smooth, flat surface concrete stairs. This will make further work easier for the finishers, that is, plastering and grinding work on a ready-made concrete structure will be possible to a minimum.

Stage #4. Knitting and installation of reinforcing mesh or frame

If the staircase is small, then for reinforcement you can use a mesh knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcing bars are placed in increments of 15 and 20 cm to form a mesh with a cell of 15 x 20 cm. The bars are tied together using wire.

For a large staircase, a reinforcement cage is used. It consists of two or more meshes connected to each other by vertical rods. Leave a distance of 2-3 cm between the meshes.

The reinforcement frame (mesh) is a kind of “skeleton” of the structure; it will hold the frozen concrete mass. Therefore, the horizontal frame rods (mesh) are fixed in the wall for reliable connection with the future concrete staircase. To do this, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the wall and pins are driven in with a hammer.

The frame or mesh is laid on the lower part of the formwork at a distance of 2-3 cm from the bottom. To raise the reinforcement, you can use stones, bricks or special plastic supports.

Stage #5. Pouring concrete

For the stairs, use concrete of a grade no lower than M200 (class no lower than B15). It is either mixed independently using a concrete mixer, or ordered from RBU.

Very important rule: concrete for stairs must contain crushed stone of at least 10-20 mm in size. Large crushed stone will help hold the concrete in the space of the steps. A finer aggregate, on the contrary, will make the concrete mobile and viscous, which will lead to it flowing out of the formwork of the steps.

Filling is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Start pouring from the lower steps. First, the 2-3 lower steps are poured with concrete.

2. Compact the concrete. Tamping helps to increase the density and strength of the composition, as it removes air pockets from its thickness. Most easy way tamping: after pouring, the concrete is pierced with reinforcement in several places. However, this method is not very reliable. It should be remembered that 1% undercompaction of heavy concrete leads to a decrease in its strength by 5-7%! Therefore, professionals prefer to compact concrete not with reinforcement, but with a special mechanism - a construction vibrator.

With any type of compaction, some of the concrete will be squeezed out through the formwork. The extruded concrete is transferred up or down (to where there is an insufficient amount of mixture).

3. The steps are given their final shape by smoothing them with a trowel (trowel).

4. All overlying steps are poured in the same way.

5. The poured concrete is covered with a film to prevent premature hardening and the formation of cracks. Instead of film, you can use another method: periodically moisten the concrete that has not yet hardened by sprinkling it with water.

Stage #6. Removing formwork

The formwork is removed carefully, in several stages. First, after a few days (5-7 days), when the concrete mass has hardened, remove the formwork from the steps and the flanging. You need to act carefully. If the concrete is still wet, under no circumstances should the formwork be removed. Otherwise, the surface of the stairs will be damaged (possibly cracking or chipping).

The steps and ends of the stairs, freed from formwork, are leveled using grinding machines. It is most convenient to use a regular grinder with a circle on concrete, which will make the surface of the stairs smooth and even.

Only after 21-28 days (depending on the weather and the rate of concrete hardening) can the retaining boards and the lower part of the formwork be removed. This is a very important moment. If the support is removed too early, there is a risk of collapse and destruction of the entire concrete structure.

After complete removal of the formwork, the lower part of the stairs is sanded with grinders.

Stage #7. Finishing

There are many options for concrete stairs variety of options finishes:

• tile;
• laminate;
• tree;
• porcelain stoneware;
• acrylic stone;
• carpet

However, according to technology, all these materials must be laid on a flat surface. After removing the formwork on the concrete stairs (especially on the surface of the steps), minor irregularities: bumps, holes, chips. Therefore, before you start laying on the stairs finishing coat, all its surfaces are sanded and plastered.

Finishing the end parts of the structure usually consists of plastering and painting. Next, the steps are finished with one of the above-mentioned floor materials.

After completion of construction country house, cottage or modern cottage, you should worry about building a porch. This task must be taken seriously. It is important not only to reliably protect the entrance from exposure to precipitation and sunlight with the help of a canopy, but also to ensure an attractive appearance, reliability, strength and durability entrance structure. You can build a porch with your own hands from concrete in a limited time using timely prepared materials. It is important to be guided by the working design and adhere to the construction technology.

What is needed to make a concrete porch

Having no experience in carrying out construction work on their own, some developers are at a loss when confronted with the many questions that arise. The most important thing is how to make a concrete porch with your own hands? When trying to answer it, it is important to figure out what building materials will be needed, whether it will be necessary to use special equipment, and whether there are enough tools available in the home arsenal. Let's figure it out in order.

DIY concrete porch

The main building material that will be required to pour the foundation under the porch is a concrete mixture, marked with the M200 index. Despite the fact that it is produced by specialized enterprises, it is easy to prepare a concrete solution on your own from the following components:

• cement marked M500;
• sifted sand;
• medium-fraction crushed stone;
• water.

To purchase materials you will not need significant expenses, the list is small:

• metal rods with a cross section of 8–10 mm, used for concrete reinforcement;
• annealed wire for connecting reinforcement into a spatial frame;
• wooden blanks used to assemble the formwork frame;
• boards or plywood intended for sheathing formwork structure;
• self-tapping screws intended for fixing the formwork structure;
• construction waste, broken bricks, stones to fill the volume;
• roofing felt or polyethylene used as waterproofing.

Home craftsmen will not face the problem of purchasing special tools, since they already have most of them. Required:

• grinder equipped with a metal circle;
• wood hacksaw;

Wood saw "Mother-in-law"

• building level;
• shovels and bayonet shovels;
• roulette;
• trowel or spatula;
• hammer.

You will also need a concrete mixer to prepare the working mixture and a vibrating tamper to compact the concreted mass. They can be rented for the duration of construction activities. Having determined the amount of building materials needed for construction and prepared the tools, proceed to further work.

We are planning the production of a concrete porch - preparation and calculations

The following operations precede the construction of the porch foundation:

• Dismantling of a previously installed platform.
• Clearing the construction site of debris.
• Measuring the distance from the ground level to the bottom of the door.
• Calculation of the vertical distance between steps.
• Determining the dimensions of the entrance area taking into account the width of the doorway.

When calculating the optimal dimensions of a concrete base, you should focus on the following recommendations:

• The width of the entrance area should be 20–30 cm wider compared to the size of the door frame;
• The distance from the beginning of the base of the porch to the door threshold should be in the range of 1–1.5 meters.

Porch foundation

On project stage A number of issues need to be addressed:

• decide on the appearance of the porch;
• choose the entrance staircase option.

The design may vary. It provides for:

• railing to facilitate climbing;
• partial or full glazing;
• open access from all sides;
• decorative wrought iron fencing.

It is also possible designs without railings or with a lockable metal grill.

The configuration of the entrance staircase is determined by the requirements of the project and can take different shapes:

• rectangular;
• round;
• square.

Staircases with diverging railings made in the form of a trapezoid look original. Appearance and design are determined by the owner of the premises depending on artistic taste and estimated cost construction activities.

When developing a porch project, observe the following requirements for geometric parameters:

• the minimum width of the entrance area is 0.9–1.2 m;
• the angle of inclination of the flight of stairs is up to 40 degrees;

Do-it-yourself semicircular concrete porch

• width of the support step – 25 cm or more;
• height difference between steps –18–22 cm;
• protrusion of the supporting surface above the riser – 2–3 cm;
• the height difference from the threshold to the concrete surface is 3–5 cm.

Having decided on the size and design of the porch, before starting construction work, you should calculate how much material (concrete and reinforcement) needs to be used for this.

• the depth of the concrete base must correspond in level to the location of the base of the foundation of the building;
• the flight of stairs must be harmoniously perceived with the exterior of the building, and also be securely fixed to the walls;
• the reinforcement frame must be strong, cover the entire area of ​​the concrete base and be located at a fixed distance from the surface;
• The brand of concrete used must provide the necessary strength of the base under conditions of intensive use.

Compliance with these rules will allow you to operate the entrance structure for a long time.

Preparing the base for a concrete porch

Guided by the project and the results of calculations, as well as having decided on the design option, proceed to the construction of the foundation:

• Mark the outline of the future building structure.
• Go deeper into the soil along the contour by 40–50 cm.
• Remove the soil and fill the pit with crushed stone and sand mixture.
• Compact the bedding, forming a layer 15–20 cm thick.
• Level the pillow, waterproof it plastic film.

Pour concrete mortar into the reinforced pit and compact it

• Drill channels in the wall of the building and insert reinforcement rods.
• Check the distance between the rods, which should exceed 10 cm.
• Hammer the vertical rods, ensuring they rise 20 cm above the soil level.
• Mix the solution by mixing sand, cement and gravel in a ratio of 3:1:3.
• Pour concrete mortar into the reinforced pit and compact it.
• Plan the base and do not expose it to mechanical stress until it dries.

When the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork structure can be installed on the foundation.

Assembling formwork for a concrete porch

Right installed formwork must repeat the configuration of the input structure. For the manufacture of the frame the following can be used:

• plywood panels;
• planed boards;
• metal sheets.

Sequence of assembly operations:

• Cut the blanks for the edging elements of the formwork structure.
• Mark the coordinates of the stair steps on the surface of the boards.
• Cut the panels according to the markings made.
• Attach jumpers between side panels to increase rigidity.
• Assemble the formwork and secure it to the soil with rods to prevent movement.

Concrete porch formwork

• Fix the elements that repeat the placement of the support steps.
• Eliminate leaks and gaps between the formwork panels and caulk them.
• Treat the inner surface of the formwork structure with mastic.

The use of a special lubricant at the final stage of formwork installation facilitates the process of dismantling the structure after the concrete has hardened.

Concrete porch - how to make steps

The use of a reinforcement cage increases the strength of the concrete mass and helps to increase its service life. When making steps, follow the given sequence of actions:

• Cut the reinforcing bars into pieces that match the dimensions of the entrance structure.
• Tie the steel blanks with annealed wire, ensuring the reliability of the power grid.
• Lay the stone construction waste, reducing the volume of poured concrete.
• Prepare the working mixture in a concrete mixer, following the standard recipe when mixing.
• Gradually pour the concrete mixture into the formwork in levels, starting pouring from the bottom tier.
• Compact the poured concrete with an internal vibrator to eliminate air inclusions.
• Level the concrete surface, using a building level to ensure there are no slopes.
• Ensure the immobility of the formwork structure with the hardening solution for 10-14 days.
• Wet the surface of the array with a small amount of water to maintain the required humidity.
• Cover the filled array with plastic film, which reliably protects against moisture evaporation.
• Dismantle the formwork elements after the final completion of the concrete hydration processes.

This operation completes the roughing stage of work preceding finishing.

Level the concrete surface, using a building level to check that there are no slopes

How to make a concrete porch beautiful - finishing options

The use of paints, tiles and other cladding options to decorate the staircase allows you to decorate it and improve its aesthetic perception. It is important to ensure that the style of the staircase structure matches the exterior of the building. As budget option You can use one of the following solutions:

• imitate the texture of natural stone on the concrete surface;
• Place multi-colored pebbles on the finished base.

It's hard to name concrete surface attractive. It is advisable to veneer it using one of the following solutions:

• stick ceramic tiles that imitate natural stone;
• lay porcelain tiles with a unique surface texture;
• finish the surface with natural or artificial stone.

The following additional design elements will add a unique “zest” and also increase the functionality of the entrance structure:

• original shaped protective visor;
• comfortable railings with wooden handrails.

Often tiles are used for cladding, which have a number of advantages:

• resistance to negative temperatures;
• anti-slip surface.

Clinker tiles for porches and steps

Combination of different color solutions When using tiles, it will give the concrete porch originality. The combined option, which involves a combination of colors that are similar in shade, deserves attention:

• monochromatic design of the supporting surface of the steps;
• facing the riser with clinker close to the color of the tile.

Solving the problems of decorating the porch, creative people have the opportunity to show imagination and originality. From a variety of options, you can always choose the optimal solution.

We cover the concrete porch with our own hands

It is not necessary to invite hired specialists to carry out finishing activities. Laying tiles can be done on our own, adhering to the following algorithm:

• Remove dust from the concrete base.
• Apply adhesive compound to the surface of the site.
• Lubricate with glue mixture work surface tiles and concrete base.
• Carefully press the tiles onto the concrete base, ensuring they do not move.
• Maintain the interval between tiles using special spacers.
• Level the resulting seams using a special grout mixture.

The required amount of special glue can be calculated by knowing the surface area to be covered.

Conclusion

When answering the question of how to make a concrete porch with your own hands, it should be noted the importance of a responsible approach and adherence to technology when performing construction and finishing work. By following the recommendations of professionals, you can complete the task yourself. This will not only save money, but also master the skills of carrying out construction activities. The most important success factor is the use of high-quality raw materials, correct calculations, and adherence to technology.

Selecting a staircase reinforcement scheme
Assembling the reinforcement frame of the stairs

Before starting to reinforce the concrete staircase, it is necessary to assemble the staircase formwork, and then perform concreting of the staircase. How to do it yourself is described in the article Do-it-yourself concrete staircase.

Rod reinforcement is excellent for reinforcing concrete stairs of simple shape.

To understand what and why to reinforce, let's look at the forces that arise on a single-flight staircase.

This will be the force of gravity from the own weight of the stairs, its pedestrians, carried things and other heavy property. All of the above puts pressure on the stairs from above.

At the same time, in the upper part of the staircase slab the concrete is compressed, and in the lower part it is stretched. All this means that concrete, which is weak in tension, needs to be reinforced at the bottom of the staircase slab. In the upper part of the staircase slab, in this case, there is no need to reinforce concrete; there the concrete will perfectly resist compressive forces even without any reinforcement. It should be noted that some private developers, when assembling the reinforcement frames of stairs, put steel channels, angles, beams, etc. into the formwork on the sides.

Of course, this won’t make things worse, but it’s a completely useless waste of metal that’s not cheap these days. Reinforcing a concrete staircase with reinforcement in the lower part is more than enough to absorb tensile forces.

The figure shows a reinforcement diagram for a simple single-flight staircase. It can be seen that a single-flight monolithic staircase (without a monolithic platform or winder steps) is reinforced only in the lower part of the slab, that is, where tensile forces are concentrated.

Sometimes you can find projects where the top of the stairs near the top surface of the concrete is reinforced steel mesh 100x100x5 mm. Such a mesh practically does not increase the rigidity of a monolithic staircase, but only protects the steps from chipping in case of accidental strong impacts.T
Such a simple nature of the effects on a simple single-flight staircase makes it possible to use a simplified method to draw up a reinforcement scheme.

It is quite possible to determine the optimal reinforcement scheme for such simple monolithic stairs yourself.

Designations in the figure for the concrete staircase reinforcement diagram: working height of the monolithic staircase slab (H), length of the flight of stairs (L).

The distance between the transverse reinforcement (E) is usually chosen to be 40 cm. Rods with a diameter of 10 mm are used as transverse reinforcement. The optimal distance of power reinforcement to the surface is 3 cm.

The height of the working slab of the staircase (H), the diameter of the longitudinal reinforcement and the distance between the bars of the longitudinal reinforcement (I) are selected according to table. 1 depending on the free flight of stairs (L).

Table 1. Determination of longitudinal reinforcement of a single-flight concrete staircase

In the case of a two-flight staircase with a monolithic platform, the forces that arise in the design of the monolithic staircase, the reinforcement scheme of the concrete staircase becomes more complicated.

The picture shows that, unlike the usual single-flight staircase without a platform, its own and useful weight the stairs want to break off the landings, causing tensile forces in the upper parts of the monolithic landings.

This is partly helped by shrinkage stresses. Therefore, monolithic platforms are reinforced both from below and from above, and top reinforcement in the landings partly continues in the stairs. The parameters of the upper reinforcement frame are selected similarly to the lower reinforcement.

The landings of double-flight staircases experience great stress from the weight of the staircase, and therefore must be firmly fixed to the wall.

In practice, to secure monolithic platforms, reinforced concrete crowns are most often used, which are formed by recesses in the walls with dimensions on average of 20x20 cm. Thus, in order to secure a monolithic concrete platform, you need strong and thick walls, for example, made of concrete, concrete blocks or bricks . When walls are made of bricks, free recesses are left in them, and in the case of thick walls made of monolithic concrete Wooden trapezoids or foam plastic products of the appropriate size are laid to the formwork at the site location.

If the walls are built using the thermo-house monolithic casting technology, then it is most practical to monolith the flights of stairs and the landing at the stage of wall construction.

To increase structural rigidity, stairs with monolithic landings should be attached from above to the reinforcement frame with upper and lower reinforcement.

As for do-it-yourself reinforcement schemes for concrete stairs with winder steps and spiral stairs, their reinforcement schemes with rod reinforcement are too complex and individual.

To compile them, at a minimum, you will have to use special programs for calculations and design of reinforced concrete structures.

Do-it-yourself concrete staircase and options for finishing it

Therefore, it is best to entrust the design of the reinforcement scheme for such stairs to professional designers, especially since the project itself will be relatively inexpensive in the total cost of a complex staircase.

In order for the reinforcement cage bars to maintain their design position in accordance with the reinforcement diagram, it is necessary to fasten all the reinforcement bars together. To fasten reinforcing mesh, you can use either spot welding or knitting.

There is an opinion that welding leads to a decrease in the strength of the reinforcement, but this is only true if special high-strength reinforcement is used. In this case, indeed, high-strength hardened reinforcement, due to heat treatment at the welding points, turns into ordinary construction reinforcement. Such high-strength reinforcement is expensive and is produced by only a few factories in the CIS on special order.

For ordinary construction fittings welding does not harm in any way and is the main method of connecting reinforcement cages in industry.

Assembling the reinforcement frame of the stairs

If you don’t have a welding machine at hand, you can simply tie the reinforcing mesh with annealed knitting wire using a hook.

For quick tying, it is convenient to clamp the hook into an electric screwdriver.

It is even more convenient to fasten reinforcement cages using electrical plastic clamps. The truth about this method of connecting reinforcement is still kept silent by domestic SNiPs, but this method of connection is already widely used abroad and on private construction sites.

To maintain a distance of 3 cm between the bottom of the formwork and the reinforcement, it is convenient to use plastic clips, which are sold in construction supermarkets.

For a monolithic staircase, it is preferable to use a clamp shaped like a “chair”.

Sometimes it is not possible to assemble a reinforcement cage from continuous bars of the required length.

It is difficult to do this when connecting on bends, since it is not convenient to bend the reinforcement without a bending apparatus. In this case, the power reinforcement can be connected from pieces. The connection is made by welding or bonding. The easiest way to weld is to use manual electric arc seam welding between reinforcement bars. When welding rods with an overlap on both sides of the joint there must be at least 6 diameters, and when welding on only one side there must be at least 12 diameters.

In the case of a two-flight staircase with a monolithic platform, the diameter of the wire that is taken to secure two reinforcing mesh must be at least 6 mm. If the power reinforcement is connected to each other using ties, then the overlap should be (on average) equal to 50 diameters of the connected reinforcement.

If there are several joints to be connected, then they are placed in a checkerboard pattern so that they are 0.7–1 m apart from each other.

Construction of houses, dachas, cottages in Lately one of the most common “hobbies” for most Russians. Those who are richer hire professional builders, while others try to slowly cope on their own. This is the category that most often searches for construction advice on the Internet.

It is for those who want to build their own house with their own hands that our guide is about “ How to make a concrete staircase yourself».

Stairs are usually installed in buildings of more than one floor, but sometimes a staircase is required to go to the basement.

After all, today not a single private house can do without a basement. Where else to store the “gifts of nature”: potatoes, pickles, preserves and jam?

The strongest and most durable is a concrete staircase. And, by the way, the process of its construction is quite within the capabilities of a skilled owner.

Calculation of concrete stairs

If the interfloor stairs in a house under construction are planned to be made of concrete, then their calculation is done at the project stage.

How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands: recommended dimensions, materials and technology

If there is a need to equip a staircase to go down to the basement or ground floor, then you should take measurements on site, make a drawing for future design, and then begin its construction. Before making a concrete staircase yourself, you should consider hiring a specialist to do the work.

In order for the staircase to be comfortable, it is necessary to remember the standard building codes that have been in use for a long time.

So, the optimal width of the stairs is 1 meter, the minimum is 80 cm, and the maximum is optional. Optimal height steps - 17-18 cm (if cladding is planned, then the height of the cladding material is minus).

A convenient step width is 28-30 cm, i.e. by the length of the foot (if the staircase is made with winder steps, then their width is calculated based on the angle of rotation of the staircase).

When calculating the stairs, the angle of elevation is important. Optimal - 30-35 degrees. It is important to maintain the distance from the ceiling to any step, which cannot be less than 2 m.

Sequence of work

Work must be carried out in strict sequence:

• install formwork;
• reinforce the frame of the future staircase;
• concrete steps.

The most labor-intensive process is the installation of formwork.

Most simple formwork made for stairs placed between two walls that perform load-bearing functions. The markings of the future staircase are made directly on the wall and the frame itself is attached to them.

For a staircase that is attached to the wall on only one side, it will be necessary to provide supports.

Putting up the formwork

The actual formwork for a concrete staircase is a box, at the bottom of which there is a solid slab (it is advisable to cover it with film), side walls that correspond to the shape of the steps, and transverse boards that form the steps themselves.

If the steps are up to one meter long, you need to take boards 30-40 mm thick, and if more than a meter, then you do not need to compact them with a second board. Boards for end formwork can be about 30 mm thick.

You can fasten the formwork elements using wood screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm; when dismantling, they are easier to remove than nails.

It is better to connect corner elements using metal corners.

The boards forming the steps are installed with a slight offset - the second step is made 2 centimeters below the top edge of the first. The same principle is used to build formwork for all other steps. This is done so that the concrete does not fall out from under the boards.

To prevent concrete from being absorbed into the wooden parts of the formwork, it is abundantly moistened before concreting, or protected with waterproofing material.

The manufactured formwork must be well strengthened, since concrete is very heavy and a cubic meter weighs 2.5 thousand kilograms. Therefore, the reinforcement is also attached to the side supports by approximately 15-25 cm.

For a non-professional builder, the procedure for tying the reinforcement necessary to give strength to the stairs will be difficult.

Manufacturing of reinforcement cage

As a rule, steel ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm is used, which is knitted at the intersections with wire.

There must be at least 3 cm between the bottom of the formwork and the reinforcement.

If you plan to install railings, then you should make wooden inserts.

After this, you can begin concreting.

Remember that the steps and slab are poured with concrete in one go. Optimal composition concrete contains 10 parts cement, 30 parts crushed stone, 20 parts sand, 7 parts water.

Concrete is poured into the formwork from the bottom step; after pouring, the mass is compacted and smoothed with a trowel.

It is better to take short breaks between concreting steps - 5-10 minutes - to contain the pressure of the concrete.

After pouring all the steps, it is advisable to cover the steps with film so that the concrete does not crack when it dries quickly.

It is better to begin dismantling the formwork after three to four weeks, when the concrete has completely dried. The staircase is ready: all that remains is to finish it to your taste.

12/08/2013 at 15:12

I. General information

II. Main product characteristics

Design

V. Scope of application

VI. Standard project

VII. Making reinforced concrete stairs yourself

VIII. Installation

IX. Average cost of reinforced concrete staircase products

During the construction of buildings, everything is worked out in detail technical nuances related to engineering projects, construction technologies and building materials.

Multi-storey buildings, cottages, schools, kindergartens, institute buildings, banks, industrial complexes and many other residential and industrial use have reinforced concrete stairs + reinforced concrete flights of stairs in their master plan.

I. General information

Reinforced concrete stairs and flights of stairs are connecting elements that are installed in special openings between floors or levels (this opening is called a staircase).

These elements are subject to constant kinetic or mechanical stress. Reinforced concrete products are manufactured at reinforced concrete factories, according to standard sizes and building codes applying concrete grade M300. And privately to order - according to individual sketches.

Flights for stairs are an inclined component of a staircase structure, which includes load-bearing beams and a certain number of steps (from 3 to 18 steps).

Standard flight width is 90cm.

II. Main product characteristics

- stable monolithic design,
- It has long term operation,
- not subject to destructive effects from sudden temperature changes,
- does not rot or be destroyed by insects or rodents,
-has high resistance to chemical and mechanical influences,
- does not tend to age,
- highly resistant to wear,
— the possibility of diversity in the decorative and finishing design of the flooring,
— possibility of manufacturing any shape and configuration,
- reasonable price and quality,
— reinforced concrete stair steps are fire-resistant and durable.

Reinforced concrete stairs and flights have one single disadvantage - they make the overall structure of the building heavier.

III.

According to the methodology of the production process and engineering technologies, products are divided into:
- monolithic type (prefabricated),
- combined type.

Based on the number of flights used, concrete stairs are classified:
- for one-march,
- two-march,
- three-march
- and screw ones.

The form is: straight, L-shaped, U-shaped, U-shaped, curved, screw and exclusive configuration.

According to GOST, reinforced concrete staircases are divided into the following types:
— flat march without equipping fascia stepped elements (LM)
- ribbed march with equipment of frieze steps (LMF),
- ribbed march with half platform (LMP).

IV.

Design

All reinforced concrete elements stairs - flights, steps, platforms and beams, as well as additional components and fastening materials make up reinforced concrete structures stairs, which are obviously displayed in the design documentation of the house, namely in the drawing of the staircase.

The design parameters of the prefabricated modification divide products into small-sized and large-sized.

A small-sized group is assembled from individual elements into a composition that includes steps, stringers (or without stringers), platform beams and slabs.

The heaviest of this structure are platform beams (300-450kg).

Large or industrial stairs differ in size and number structural elements: platforms and marches.

V.

Application area

- industrial complexes of all types,
- schools and kindergartens,
- airport and railway stations,
- cinemas and restaurants,
- buildings of higher educational institutions,
- ordinary reinforced concrete house stairs up to 3 floors,
- multi-storey frame, brick, stone houses and other areas.

VI.

Standard project

The development of drawing and technical information with the provision of all structural details of the future staircase is a standard project. Several options with drawings are provided to the customer for consideration. They include technical drawings with component parts and their dimensions. Drawings can be drawn up individually for each type of stairs. Namely: with straight, L-shaped, U-shaped, U-shaped, curved, spiral staircases.

How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands

In three dimensions and in section, all the complexities of the future structure in combination with the interior of the house are clearly visible.


A typical design of a staircase complex is carried out before the construction of a house (low-rise or high-rise buildings). It is included as part of the general construction project.

All details of the project plan are discussed and agreed upon with the customer. A standard design for the installation of reinforced concrete stairs and flights can be ordered from government design organizations or private design bureaus.

List of detailed information of the drawing part of the project
precise technical marks for high-rise installation,
range of sizes horizontally and vertical plane,
clearance niches for fastening products;
parameters of concrete steps,
all technical data for installing beam products,
calculation of the resistance of buildings to the additional weight of stairs,

Typical projects are divided into standard (for multi-storey buildings), And non-standard or customized(for private houses).

The first includes prefabricated stairs (factory), consisting of two elements: a staircase and a flight. To the second - all other options.

In standard designs of private houses up to 3 floors and above, the following are taken into account: firstly, the size of the site allocated for construction or installation, secondly, the manufacturing and installation technology, the type of raw materials used in production and the shape of the staircase structure, thirdly, the location , intended for installation (load-bearing walls, middle of the hall) and geographical area.

The number of steps, width, height and shape are agreed with the customer.

VII. Making reinforced concrete stairs yourself

The question always arises: “how to make a reinforced concrete staircase with your own hands?” This job requires some skills in construction industry, and also perfectly study the installation stages: assembly of formwork, installation of a frame made of reinforcement and concrete pouring frame.

Assembling the formwork is the most sensitive moment– precise selection of formwork for each element is carried out.

Wooden boards, plywood and metal sheets can be used as formwork. When installing, wooden formwork must be soaked in water to prevent moisture absorption from the concrete and damage geometric shape steps, etc.

elements. Easy option for manual installation- this is a variant of a wall staircase or an inter-wall staircase. The most difficult operation is making formwork for a spiral staircase.

All options involve the installation of support beams made of thick timber.

After the final assembly and strengthening of the formwork sections, the marches and platforms are reinforced. The role of reinforcement is played by metal rods and mesh. The final step is pouring concrete. To prepare the concrete composition you will need cement, sand, and crushed stone. All components are diluted with water, then mixed in a concrete mixer for 15 minutes.

Using buckets, the solution is poured into the formwork.

Within 25-28 days, concrete reaches one hundred percent maturity, it's time to start decorating. Natural wood, laminate, thick plastic, cork - ideal for finishing work.

Precise technological execution of phased construction will give concrete structures strength and appropriate resistance to various destructive environments.

All DIY products, elements and stairs (reinforced concrete) have a number of advantages, namely: high resistance to mechanical stress due to the applied building materials, special decorative finishing and various exclusive forms, so reinforced concrete stairs in private houses are preferred by all clients who have country houses.

VIII.

Installation

Installation begins with pouring a concrete pad on the first floor in the stairwell. Precise marks for reinforced concrete structures are made in advance. Each slab is checked for defects.

Installation steps: stringers of 2 flights go into the nests of the platform beams. The stepped part is placed on the stringers, resting its ends on it, while the front edge rests on the step lying below.

The march consists of two steps - lower and upper. Their purpose is to transition to the site. In turn, the platform is a reinforced concrete slab that serves as the load-bearing walls of the building or concrete beams. The handrails are attached with screws to the grille.

The connection of these structural elements is carried out by welding.

Factory marches have a solid cross-section, and the treads are folded or overhead. Handrails are delivered to the site in finished form and installed on site. The weight of a reinforced concrete element reaches 1t.

When installing large-sized reinforced concrete positions, teams of professional builders and special equipment (crane) are involved. The installation technology is carried out simultaneously with the construction of high-rise buildings. It is recommended that the step-by-step process of the technological process be strictly observed, otherwise it is fraught with unforeseen circumstances - collapse of staircases or cracks in load-bearing walls and the products themselves.

Installing stairs on metal reinforced concrete stringers is the easiest option and consists of: installing stringers, installing formwork and reinforcement, the last thing is pouring concrete.

This architectural composition can be installed anywhere. They are mounted without the use of additional equipment, unless the weight of the flights exceeds 350-400 kg.

IX. Average cost of reinforced concrete staircase products

For the attention of builders, combined reinforced concrete stairs can be purchased in ready-made prefabricated form at factories. It is also possible to individually manufacture reinforced concrete staircases to order from professional companies producing reinforced concrete products.

Product type (length) (width) (height) (weight) price

ML30-60-10(9 speed) (3610.0) (1050.0) (1200.0) (1.80) 10570rub
ML30-60-12(9 speed) (3610.0) (1200.0) (1200.0) (2.0) 11860rub
ML36-60-13(11 speed) (4280.0) (1350.0) (1200.0) (2.70) 17970rub
1LM30.11.15-4 (3000.0) (1050.0) (2500.0) (1.480) 9850rub
1LM30.12.15-4 (3000.0) (1200.0) (2500.0) (1.70) 10500rub
LM1(3910.0) (1050.0) (1600.0) (1.920) 11650rub
LM2(4250.0) (1050.0) (1800.0) (2.080) 10750rub

Staircase structures made of monolithic concrete

When building country houses and apartments on several levels, stairs are used. These essential elements must be practical and safe.

Most often, monolithic concrete stairs have recently begun to be used, since they do not require treatment after pouring and have a number of undeniable advantages.

1. Calculations and design
2. Manufacturing

Device options and advantages

The structure can be located both indoors and outdoors and, depending on the type, consist of one or two inclined beams and steps.

As load-bearing elements may be used:

• Stringers of a monolithic staircase - can be made of reinforced concrete or steel, the steps are attached from above.
• Bowstring - steps are inserted into grooves located on the inside. It is made of reinforced concrete, steel or wood.

Monolithic concrete stairs have a number of undeniable advantages: strength, durability, and high environmental friendliness.

The design does not require frequent repairs; it can be made according to individual order. The advantages include relatively inexpensive materials and work.

It is very important that high-quality monolithic stairs made of concrete are silent and safe.

Main types

Stepped products are different:

• A concrete staircase for a home can be entirely monolithic.

  It is poured into pre-prepared formwork, which is dismantled after hardening. cement mortar. It is worth noting that this option has recently been used infrequently for the home. There are several reasons for this, but the main one lies in heavy weight, due to which the load on the foundation significantly increases. But basement or yard stairs made of concrete are not uncommon today.

• Combined - made from cement-sand mortar and metal.

  They consist of a frame made of high quality steel, and concrete steps. In this case, the formwork is assembled for each of them separately.

There is another classification of monolithic concrete stairs:

• Marches - can contain 1, 2 or more spans, called marches. According to building codes perfect angle equals 45˚. The most optimal flight is considered to have 9 steps; sometimes it is advisable to use more, although then you will also have to make a landing.

  Its width should be the same as the span, and its length should not exceed 1.5 average steps. This type is one of the most common.

• Screw or spiral - represent more complex design, so they are not used too often.

  They are not very convenient, but they take up little space, so they can be used in small spaces. Spiral monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are calculated and designed much simpler than marching ones.

  Do-it-yourself concrete staircase - calculations, installation, tips on how to make

  So, if the length of the steps is 0.5 m, the length of the entire staircase structure will be approximately 2 times greater. In the interior of modern houses and multi-level apartments, they look very elegant and stylish. They can be successfully combined with marching ones. So, in the main part of the house a product of the first type is installed, for example, from the 1st to the 2nd floor, and from the 2nd to the attic - a spiral staircase, which will save not only money, but also space.

The product can be ordered from professional builders or made independently.

It is worth noting right away that this is a very labor-intensive process, and for those who have never worked with a cement-sand mixture, it is better not to undertake it, as this will jeopardize the safety of movement. Do not forget that a monolithic staircase with your own hands must be made of high-strength concrete.

It should be thick and not slip out of the formwork, thereby breaking the symmetry.

In order to calculate the height, you need to measure it from the floor to the part of the wall where the last step will end.

After this, visually draw a diagonal from the end point to the floor so that you get a right triangle. Then calculate the most optimal width of the marches, length and height of each step. Do not forget to deduct the height of the top floor slab, as well as those that will serve as the base of the staircase and its platform if you decide to make a two-flight structure.

Write down all calculations on paper and make a drawing. When calculating the height of the steps, do not forget that they will be lined with some material, for example, plastic or carpet, their thickness must be taken into account.

Making a staircase with your own hands

Only the highest quality materials are used. The grade of concrete for the manufacture of monolithic stairs should not be less than M-300.

• They start by assembling the formwork. It is necessary to ensure that the cement-sand mixture does not leak out or spread; it is advisable to use moisture-resistant plywood. Don’t forget about the special adhesive lubricant, which will help you dismantle the prefabricated equipment easily and without damaging the surface.
• Reinforced mesh, consisting of strong metal rods welded together by a point method, is a mandatory component of both monolithic marching staircases and spiral staircases.

  It serves as a skeleton that prevents concrete from cracking and crumbling.

• After the formwork and reinforced mesh are ready, you can begin concreting monolithic stairs. It is worth noting that they are installed before the finishing of the home, during construction. Make sure the concrete is viscous and start pouring it into the formwork. It is more convenient to do this from the top step.

  It is very important to ensure that there are no bubbles or voids; each freshly poured step must be compacted. For this purpose, a vibrating screed is used.

Staircase structures made of monolithic concrete can be used only after completely dry surfaces. A facing works It is better to leave it until the interior decoration of the house is completed.

Price

If you do not want to do the work yourself, you can turn to specialists.

The price of a monolithic concrete staircase in Moscow in this case will be approximately as follows:

Do-it-yourself monolithic concrete staircase: photo and video instructions

Concrete is a material of extraordinary strength and durability. But for the builder, its most interesting property is the plasticity of the newly prepared mixture. If structures from other materials are constructed, that is, they are composed of elements, then concrete ones are poured into a finished form.

Monolithic concrete stairs are, without a doubt, the most durable of all.

At the same time, the view can be more than fantastic. In this lesson you will learn how to make a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands without involving specialists.

To do this, you only need desire, perseverance, patience and determination.

Types of construction

According to the method of manufacturing, concrete stairs are classified into two types:

1. monolithic - the flight and landing, if provided, are a single whole and are manufactured as one structure.

   The price for a monolithic concrete staircase varies depending on the structure;

2. combined - march elements are produced separately. For example, it is installed metal carcass, and the steps for the stairs are made of concrete.

In the first case, the entire process is carried out at the installation site. In the second, the structure is only assembled on site.

Calculation, installation, pouring and finishing of concrete stairs with your own hands

The photo shows monolithic concrete stairs.

Necessary Requirements

Despite its other advantages, a concrete structure has one significant drawback for private construction - heavy weight.

Therefore, before deciding how to make a concrete staircase in your house, you first need to make sure that the wall and floor can withstand such a load.

A standard march 4 m long and 1 m wide weighs about 2.5 tons. The support of such a structure should be either a monolithic foundation or a reinforced concrete beam.

When installing in an already completed building, another difficulty may arise.

If a layer of heat insulation is placed under the coating, then it will be pressed under the weight of the march. Before installation, it is necessary to disassemble the floor and remove the insulation.

Construction of concrete stairs

This entire process is labor-intensive and time-consuming, since installation of formwork, pouring, and, most importantly, hardening of the material take a lot of time.

However, a DIY concrete staircase is a doable task.

Work on constructing a concrete staircase with your own hands is carried out in several stages:

• layout;
• formwork installation;
• reinforcement;
• pouring concrete.

Preliminary calculations

Making a concrete staircase will not require excessive effort if you consider its construction at the planning stage.

The easiest option is to make steps between two walls. And the formwork in this case is simple, and the volume of concrete is minimal.

If the building has already been built, then the arrangement of stairs will depend on the parameters of the room.

When choosing a project, you need to remember some features:

• the steeper the angle of the march, the less concrete will be required and the lower the price of the product will be.

  But at the same time, the greater the slope, the more difficult it is to climb and descend;

• it is easier to build a landing than winder steps;
• for spiral staircases, it will require many formwork panels of non-standard shape, which will significantly complicate installation. The price also increases;
• When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account the recommended sizes of steps, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to use.

Manufacturing of formwork

In essence, this is a wooden form into which concrete is poured.

Formwork is constructed from plywood 12–18 mm thick or edged boards at 3 cm.

1. If the formwork for a concrete staircase is intended to be used once, then the material is not protected. If repeatedly, the product is covered with glassine, old linoleum, or roofing felt.
2. The material is fastened with wood screws: nails are difficult to remove after concreting.
3. For supports and temporary stands, timber with a cross-section of up to 10*10 cm is used. The number of supports is calculated based on the fact that a pine beam 3 m long can withstand up to 150 kg.
4. All elements are cut from plywood or boards with a jigsaw and assembled according to the sketch.

   In its finished form, the formwork looks like a model of a staircase, in which only the upper part of the steps and the landing are missing.

5. It is better to make the side formwork from plywood, the bottom from boards, as shown in the photo.

Reinforcement of the staircase structure

Before the staircase formwork is poured with concrete, reinforcement is performed.

The metal frame significantly increases the strength of the product and prevents cracking and crumbling of concrete. Mounting rods and steel mesh are used.

1. At the stage of installing the formwork in the wall, you need to make grooves for attaching the mounting rods.
2. Transverse rods are fixed into the grooves, then longitudinal rods are laid - the step between them depends on the length of the span.
3. Fastening of reinforcing bars is done either spot welding, or wire knitted.

   The latter method is more appropriate for a small amount of work.

4. The resulting frame mesh should rise 5–10 mm above the bottom. To do this, plastic bosses are installed under the mesh.
5. The side edge of the step is reinforced with a reinforcing bar, the top - with a flat steel mesh, fixed to the main frame.

Concreting stairs

To pour concrete stairs, use a solution of at least B15 grade.

The composition is prepared independently in a concrete mixer. It is necessary to add at least 4 parts of crushed stone (fraction 10 - 20 millimeters) to the finished solution so that the concrete does not leak out of the formwork during pouring.

The technology for constructing concrete stairs involves the sequence of the following stages:

1. Concreting stairs is done at a time, so it is advisable to prepare the solution in one portion.
2. The formwork is wetted with water.
3. Filling is done from bottom to top.
4. The steps are compacted and carefully leveled with a trowel.
5. Concrete surfaces are covered with film to prevent uneven drying.
6. The formwork and supports are removed after the concrete has hardened - no earlier than after 4 weeks.

Concrete monolithic stairs are designed for the most severe operating conditions.

For external structures it is difficult to find a more durable and unpretentious material. Inside the building, the attractiveness of the structure is no less important. The most varied finishing is possible: wood paneling, artificial stone or ceramic tiles, or a combination of materials. The choice of design depends only on the features of the interior and personal tastes.

The video below will tell you in detail about the construction of a monolithic concrete staircase on your own!

Good luck with your construction!

Do-it-yourself monolithic concrete staircase: video