There are two options for placing the door, which depend on the requirements for its position. If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the structure is “tied” to it and adjusted so that the drywall joints do not fall on the door posts (Fig. 1, a).

In the case where the position of the opening is permissible to vary, it can be “built into” the structure, that is, made where there are no joints (Fig. 1, b). It is better to arrange the opening so that there are two structural posts on both sides of the profiles framing the doorway. They can be connected to several door jumpers, which will further strengthen the door block.

Attach door frames to the vertical post profile of the partition frame without installation additional elements rigidity is possible subject to the following conditions: the height of the partition does not exceed 2600 mm; width door leaf- no more than 900 mm; door leaf weight - does not exceed 25 kg.

In this case, the rigidity of the partition with the doorway will be ensured by reliable connection of the rack and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be secured to the ceiling with dowels at a distance of no more than 100 mm from the opening. Above the doorway, the rack profiles must be separated by a crossbar, which increases the rigidity of the entire door frame structure. Between the crossbar and the top guide you need to install 1-2 intermediate posts.

There are three ways to make a crossbar over a doorway.

1st method. In a section of the PN profile equal in length to the width of the doorway plus 60 mm, cuts 30 mm deep are made with scissors. Then the back of the profile is bent at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2, a). The resulting part is fixed with self-tapping screws on the posts made of the PS profile of the doorway (Fig. 2, b). The sidewalls of the crossbar are fastened to the shelves and the bent back.

2- th way. In the shelves, make cuts with scissors at an angle of 45° and bend the back. In Fig. 2, c shows a doorway post with a lintel with shelves cut at an angle of 45° and a bent back at an angle of 90°. The jumper is attached to the rack at four points - two on the bent part and two on the jumper itself. That is, only eight attachment points for the jumper.

3- th way. The lintel above the door frame is made from a piece of the PN guide profile, a length equal to the width of the doorway plus approximately 200 mm. Having marked the width of the opening on the profile, use scissors to cut the shelves to the back and bend the ends at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2, d). Attach the finished jumper in place with self-tapping screws through the bent backs (Fig. 2, e). For reinforcement, wooden blocks with a cross-section along the width of the PN profile are inserted into the corners and fixed on both sides with screws at the bend of the profile (Fig. 3, a). This will ensure the reliability of the design. Inserting bars into corners is the “know-how” of Russian craftsmen; there is no such information in the technological instructions of drywall manufacturers.

If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, then the racks of the partition frame framing the opening must be strengthened. Rigips company and German company Knauf (meaning the main company in Germany) recommend using reinforced UA profiles with a thickness of 2 mm. Their width corresponds to standard CW/UW wall profiles - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling using connecting corners.

Rice. 2. Manufacturing and fastening of doorway crossbars:

a - making the side of the crossbar (the back is cut and bent at an angle of 90°); b - crossbar with sides (the backs are notched and bent at an angle of 90°) in the partition frame; c - doorway post with insert corners and crossbar with sidewall (the shelves are cut at an angle of 45°, the back is bent at an angle of 90°): 1 - PS profile, 2 - PN profile, 3 - crossbar, 4 - LN9 screw, 5 - insert corner for door jamb lower, 6 - upper insert corner for door jamb; g - crossbar with sidewall (the backs are cut at an angle of 90°, the back is bent at an angle of 90°): 1 - stand, 2 - crossbar, 3 - LN9 screw; e - frame of a doorway with insert corners and a crossbar with sidewalls (the shelves are cut at an angle of 90°, the back is bent at an angle of 90°): 1 - lower guide, 2 - upper guide, 3 - door jamb post, 4 - insert corner for the door lower jamb, 5 - upper insert corner for the door jamb, b - crossbar.

The corners are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels and connected to the reinforced profile with an M8 bolt with a washer and nut. In our practice, this reinforcement is carried out either by pressing into the rack wooden beam followed by fastening it with screws (see Fig. 3, a, b), or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3, c).

The maximum weight of the door leaf depends on the selected profile. According to German and Austrian standards, a door leaf weighing 30 kg can be installed in a frame made from a CW50 profile, a door leaf weighing 40 kg can be installed in a frame made from a CW75 profile, and a door leaf weighing 49 kg can be installed in a frame made from a CW100 profile. When using reinforced UA profiles (2 mm thick), the weight of the door leaf for installation in the partition frame increases and amounts to 50 kg for the UA50 profile, 75 kg for the UA75 profile, and 100 kg for the UA100 profile.

Window openings and niches in partitions are reinforced with racks according to the same principle as a doorway.

Making a doorway in frame partition near the wall to which the partition adjoins is no different from those described above. On the guide profile, which will be attached to the base wall, the length from floor to ceiling is marked with lines. Then add the length of a short section of the partition to each side and cut off the excess with sharp scissors. Along the lines of the floor and ceiling, the profile flanges are cut to the back and the tips of the corners are slightly trimmed in these places so that they do not interfere with bending. Bend the ends of the profile along the marking lines at an angle of 90°. Using a plumb line and a building level, level and fix the guide profile with dowel nails (Fig. 4).

On the market building materials drywall appeared relatively recently. Just 15 years ago, partitions and walls of buildings were built from foam blocks or bricks. Today, drywall is gaining more and more popularity.

The main advantages of drywall compared to others finishing materials, should include:

• ease of installation, since any owner can handle the installation of drywall;
• the ability to make a variety of shapes;
• preservation optimal humidity in room. Due to its porous structure, the material allows steam and moisture to pass through, the costs of which it retains;
• Thanks to some types of impregnation, drywall can be used in rooms and structures with high level humidity;
• the material is very light weight, so it does not overload the structure on which it is attached;
• drywall is much cheaper than similar materials;
• The material is environmentally friendly and does not harm health.

Drywall doorways are installed using a profile with a width of 50 to 100 mm. At the same time, it is cut with your own hands to the required size.

Necessary tool

To make a doorway out of plasterboard with your own hands, you need to have the following tool:

• building level;
• screwdriver or drill with attachments;
• roulette;
• perforator;
• polyurethane foam;
• plumb line to install guide profiles;
• pencil;
• cutter.

Even with a minimal set of tools, you can quickly and efficiently make a doorway with your own hands.

Doorway installation

Before you begin installing the doorway, you need to prepare a frame for it.

Installation of the frame for the opening is carried out as follows:

• the doorway post is installed to the ceiling and floor profiles;
• intermediate racks are installed at a distance of about 50 cm from each other to each wall;
• a U-shaped section is formed from plasterboard, after which it is attached to the horizontal crossbar above the door;
• the structure is fastened with self-tapping screws;
• if the structure needs to be given additional rigidity, a wooden beam can be inserted into the doorway.

After the frame is ready, begin laying solid sheets of drywall. This is very easy to do if you follow these rules:

• the gap from the installation site of the screw to the edge of the sheet should be about 1 cm;
• the optimal distance from one fastener to another is 15 cm;
• sheets placed adjacent to each other must be located on the same profile;
• the fastener head is recessed into the sheet by no more than 0.8 mm;
• the length of the screws used should be within 2 cm;
• Next, you need to seal all the joints and carry out other cosmetic work.

Thus, by attaching sheets of drywall to the prepared frame, you will get an aesthetic and beautiful doorway.

How to reduce a doorway with drywall

When remodeling a home, owners sometimes encounter a situation where the size of the doorway requires reduction. It is very easy to do this with your own hands, but before you sew up the doorway with plasterboard, you need to apply a layer of plaster on the wall near the door corresponding to the thickness of the plasterboard sheet.

Using drywall, the doorway can be reduced in the following way:

• plaster is removed 10 cm from the edge of the doorway;
• markings are applied to the walls and floor;
• according to pre-prepared markings, the starting profile is attached to the floor and ceiling;
• Point profiles are placed on the finished starting profile, which are then connected with self-tapping screws;
• after complete installation frame, it is necessary to reduce the original dimensions and cut out fragments from plasterboard for future design;
• special glue is applied to areas of the wall that have previously been cleared of plaster (it is better to do this with gloves). Plasterboard sheets are attached to the applied glue and after its polymerization, the edges of the sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws;
• The doorway slopes must also be reduced in size, after which they are covered with a strip of drywall, and all joints must be sealed with your own hands.

Doorway, especially if it concerns front door, can not only be reduced, but also insulated or isolated from extraneous sounds. This is done before covering with plasterboard, after the frame is installed.

It is better to choose polystyrene foam or mineral wool boards as insulation.

Installation of a door in a plasterboard opening

To install the door in plasterboard partition it is necessary to install the door frame, and then hang the leaf.

To ensure that the box, built with your own hands, holds tightly, it is secured with special wooden wedges. After final fastening, the wedges can be easily removed.

All parts of the box are checked for correct installation building level. If all the parameters are in order, you can use self-tapping screws to secure the door frame into the opening.

The gap between the box and the stand must be sealed with a special polyurethane foam. In order for the shape of the opening to be completely preserved, it is necessary to insert spacers during installation.

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

In this review I will tell you how to make a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands. Moreover, we will not consider any single option, as is done in most reviews, but we will deal with all the most popular types of designs; you must decide in advance which technology would be better suited for your situation. Right choice will provide not only best result, but will also simplify the work process and reduce the costs of project implementation.

Types of openings

The conditions for constructing structures may be different, so you don’t need to listen to anyone’s advice about the advantages of this or that option. You should familiarize yourself with all the technologies for carrying out work and, based on the information received, make an informed and informed decision.

Option 1 – partition with opening

If you need to make a wall with a doorway, then this section will help you understand the technology and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. This method is very popular in new buildings, where you get a room in which there are no partitions, and you determine the layout yourself; you can also redevelop the existing space, of course, if you have agreed on everything in advance.

This option must be considered as a whole - from the beginning of planning the partition to its assembly, since it is impossible to first make a wall and then build an opening in the right place, everything is thought out in advance. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a plasterboard wall with a door or an arch, it’s important to make a durable partition that will serve you for many years.

The workflow consists of several stages, each of which is important. Therefore, all the recommendations outlined below must be followed. Let's start with the planning stage:

• To begin with, you need to clearly determine the place where the future wall will be located; here you should think everything over carefully so that later it does not turn out that you missed some important nuances. Those who do the work themselves, due to lack of experience and haste, often make mistakes and miscalculations, so you shouldn’t determine everything by eye, it’s better to estimate everything using a tape measure;
• Once you clearly know the location of the wall, you can begin to determine the exact location of the opening. It all depends on the layout of your premises, its configuration and future. It is important that the end result is not only attractive, but also comfortable; think about where the location of the opening or door will be most rational;

• If you clearly know the location of the wall and opening, then making a drawing will not be difficult. For the example above, an option is shown indicating the structural elements so that you can plan their position. The guide profile sets the position of the wall, the posts create a plane, and the lintels increase strength; naturally, a frame is made around the perimeter of the opening;
• The stage cannot be considered complete until you mark the position of the structure in the room. This will simplify your further work and allow you to see errors, for example, too small space or communication interference. The markings are made along the ceiling, after which the lines are transferred to the floor using a plumb line - this option allows you to make an ideal vertical and eliminate errors that are necessarily present when working with a level.

You can use more modern solution for marking - laser level. This is what specialists most often use. If you have the opportunity to borrow such equipment, then you can work with it, the main thing is to ask for advice on the operation of the level, the opinion that anyone can use it is wrong.

You cannot carry out work without a certain set of materials, the list looks like this:

Materials	Description
Drywall	Use a wall option with a thickness of 12.5 mm; you should not use ceiling sheets, their strength is low and even a child can break through such walls. Naturally, if the design is made for a room with high humidity, then you need to purchase moisture resistant drywall, which is easily distinguished by the green color of the outer covering
Metal profile	I strongly recommend not saving and purchasing a good-quality rack profile measuring 50x100 mm and guide elements 50x50 mm. Adapting a regular profile is not the best idea, its strength is low, and a wall thickness of 6 cm will not allow you to achieve good sound insulation and structural rigidity
Mineral wool	We will use it to fill the cavities for sound and heat insulation of the partition. Regular ones will do roll materials, they are cheaper than specialized options, but, as practice shows, this option is sufficient for effective noise absorption
Fasteners	This includes quick installation dowels and self-tapping screws different types, with their help the structure is assembled into a single whole. The most commonly used dowels are 6x40, screws 3.5x11 mm and 3.5x25 mm

As for the tools, you will need the following set for work:

• A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels. If your walls and floor are wooden, then there is no need for this tool;
• A screwdriver - you definitely can’t do without this device; screwing a huge number of screws by hand is a bad idea.
• To cut the profile, use ordinary metal scissors, the main thing is that they are sharp;
• To control the position of each element, you need a level, and to take measurements and markings, you should have a tape measure and a construction pencil on hand;
• Drywall cutting is done using the usual construction knife, to simplify the work, you can additionally use a metal ruler, then the cutting line will be perfectly straight.

Now let’s figure out how to build the frame of the structure; the instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

• A guide profile is laid out along the previously made markings; if necessary, individual elements are cut using metal scissors. Moreover, at the corners it is not necessary to cut the element completely; you can make cuts on the side shelves and simply bend it, so the structure will be more rigid;
• Next, you need to mark the surface of the walls, floor and ceiling for drilling holes for dowels. The dowel spacing is 50-60 cm, the work is not difficult, but it requires a certain amount of time. The hammer drill is very noisy, so do not use it in the morning or evening;
• The guide profile is fixed with dowels; to do this, they are first inserted into the hole, and then impact screws are driven into them, everything is very simple and quick;

• Racks are inserted into the finished structure along the perimeter of the partition and secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other. For work, so-called “bugs” are used; they allow you to reliably connect the frame elements.

Now let’s figure out how to make an opening, because this is the main goal of our review, everything is simple:

• Two partition profiles are placed at the edges; if you are thinking of placing a door in the structure, then the width of the opening should be 5 cm larger than door frame. If you have an arch, then keep in mind that drywall will be fixed to the surface, which needs to be finished decorative coating and putty, this also takes up some space;
• It is advisable to strengthen the opening; there are two main options: either insert the profile into the profile so that you get a square post, or insert it into the groove wooden block suitable size and secure it with self-tapping screws. Both solutions have worked well, strengthening has never harmed anyone, even if you make an arch, you can later hang a door, a reinforced opening will allow this;

• The entire structure can be strengthened crossbars, their number depends on the size of the structure and its rigidity; sometimes reinforcement is not required at all.

If there will be wiring inside the structure, then it must be laid at this stage in special corrugations. Then the following work is performed:

• First, you need to line one of the walls with plasterboard, after which you can begin laying soundproofing material, it is positioned so that there are as few cracks and voids in the cavity as possible, this will ensure the best result;

• After laying the material, the structure is completely sheathed; if there is a door inside the opening, then there is no need to sheath it along the inner perimeter; if there is an arch, then strips of plasterboard are attached to the surface.

Finishing works do not differ from ordinary ones, so we will not consider them. The corners of the opening must be reinforced with putty corners; they both level the joint and improve appearance designs.

Option 2 – leveling the opening with plasterboard

This is a simpler solution, which is used in cases where you need to quickly and efficiently align the contours of the opening. There is much less work here than in the option described above, but you still need to carefully understand all the nuances of the technology.

To work we need the following:

• Drywall - its quantity is determined in advance, most often one sheet is enough;
• The adhesive composition for drywall is a special mixture based on gypsum, which dries very quickly and firmly fixes the material on various substrates;
• The tools you need are a knife for cutting drywall, a tape measure and a pencil for marking, a level to control the position of the elements, and a container for preparing the adhesive.

The workflow consists of several stages:

• First of all, you need to prepare the surface of the opening: clean it of dirt, build-up of solution and other elements that interfere with work. If there is significant damage to the base, it is easier to repair it cement mortar, there is no need to draw the planes perfectly, it is important to strengthen them and make them more or less even;
• Then the opening is measured to determine the size of the plasterboard elements. First of all, I advise cutting out only the top element and only after fixing it, cutting the sidewalls; the width should be equal to the thickness of the wall, the length should allow the material to be positioned freely in the opening;

Before attaching drywall, I advise treating the surfaces with a strengthening primer, this will improve the adhesion of the adhesive and reduce the absorption of the base.

• The adhesive composition is applied to the material in massive dots or, as builders call them, slaps. The element is carefully pressed against the top of the slope, after which you need to use a level to set it to a perfectly level position. If you are concerned about the reliability of the fixation, you can use 1-2 spacers, they can be removed after half an hour, the glue sets very quickly;

• Next, measurements are taken of the side elements, pieces of drywall are cut out and glued in the same way as on top part. It’s easier to work with side slopes; the most important thing is to remember to level them using a level; it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to correct the curvature later;
• When the composition dries, and this only takes a couple of hours, you can begin finishing the structure; the gaps between the wall and the ends of the drywall can be filled with the same adhesive composition. Corners are placed on the corners to strengthen and level this part of the structure. IN last resort the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative paint.

The price of this option for finishing openings is low, but this solution has one significant drawback: the door cannot be fastened to such a surface, or you will have to drill a deep hole so that the anchor can reach the brick or concrete.

Option 3 – opening on a metal frame

If it is necessary to reduce the size of the opening or it is severely damaged, then the easiest way is to build a frame that will create structural rigidity and allow any base to be leveled. This option combines the two previous ones, since we will be working with concrete or other walls, and the plasterboard will be attached to a metal frame.

Let's look at the technology for carrying out the work:

• First of all, the plaster is removed from one or both sides of the opening at a distance of 15-20 cm to the edge, this will allow the material to be aligned with the main surface and thereby significantly simplify the leveling process. Do not worry that you are removing a layer greater than the thickness of the drywall - this difference is compensated by the adhesive composition;
• Then you need to use a level, tape measure and pencil to mark the position of the future structure; you need to make its outlines on the floor and the top of the opening so that when carrying out work you have clear guidelines and do not confuse anything. The markings will also help you decide how to strengthen the structure and where to place the frame elements;

• The next stage is attaching the starting profile in the required places. Most often you need to cut small elements and fasten them with dowels or self-tapping screws. The markings made earlier serve as a guide; everything is very simple and convenient;

• If you need to reduce the opening in height, then the frame is made in the upper part, its dimensions depend on the thickness of the walls, but remember that plasterboard will be attached on both sides, which means that there must be at least 13 mm from the frame to the plane of the wall. That is, after sheathing the structure, the surface should be leveled;

• If doorways are made of plasterboard, then on the side of hanging the canvas it is advisable to strengthen the structure as I described above. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the system, so it is better to play it safe and strengthen it so that it can withstand even the heaviest door;
• When the frame is ready, you can begin measuring the dimensions of the drywall, cutting and attaching them.. Moreover, the material is not attached in the usual way: if it comes to the surface of the wall, then there it sits on the plaster adhesive composition, and in places where there is a frame, drywall is attached to it. In the end it turns out very reliable design, the main thing is to monitor the location of the sheets using a level;
• The last step is to putty the structure, there are several simple recommendations: corners must be used; at the joints the plane can be strengthened using a sickle mesh of the required width. It is important to make the plane level so that the joint between the plaster and the plaster is not visible at all.

Option 4 – construction of an arch

All three options described above differed in implementation technology and design, but all of them were a straight-sided opening the right size. But if you decide to make an arch, then this section will help you get the job done. This technology is suitable for all the above cases.

I will not talk about the entire working process, but will dwell in detail only on the curved part. This is the most difficult element that you should understand as best as possible.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

• First of all, you need to figure out what your arch will look like; the dimensions of the frame and the installation of the structure depend on what shape you choose. When you decide, you can start attaching the base for the structure; it is made from a wall profile and is located on the top and side so as not to interfere with the curved elements that will be installed later;
• Then you need to make a blank for the curved element; for this, take a guide profile and make even cuts on it opposite each other at a distance of 3-4 cm along the entire length. The profile prepared in this way can be given the required shape later;

• Next, the element is bent the way we need it, it’s important to try it on ready product to the opening to control the dimensions and, if necessary, cut off the excess part. To simplify the work and improve the final result, be sure to make the second arched element in the shape of the first, and do not bend it separately, so you can get two identical parts;

• The arched parts are fastened to the previously established basis, for rigidity, spacers can be installed at any angle in any place. The arched elements are connected to each other through lintels. You can also use hangers if you need to additionally secure part of the profile somewhere, it all depends on your design, it is important that in the end it turns out strong;

• When the structure is secured, you can begin sheathing front sides, that is, sections of the wall at the top of the opening. Here it is very important to accurately cut out the oval side, since it will be very difficult to remove it with putty later. You must transfer the exact curve to the material and cut it out, after which the sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws, you need everything to match as best as possible;

• First you need to cut a strip of drywall to the required length, everything is simple: we measure the width and length of the curved part using a tape measure and transfer these indicators to the material;
• Using a special needle roller, you need to make holes in back side drywall, it is easy to identify it by the inscriptions. You just need to go through this device, pressing it well, you shouldn’t be too zealous, otherwise you may ruin the piece and have to cut off another one;

• The punched surface is moistened with water and left for a couple of minutes, after which the material can be bent. This should be done carefully, it is important not to damage the drywall;
• Fastening is done with an assistant - one person holds the bent material, and the second fixes it with self-tapping screws. After drying, the structure will become rigid;

• I recommend attaching a special arched corner to the outer corners of the curved areas, and it is advisable to first cover the entire surface with fiberglass for strength. After this, you need to carry out putty work, the end result will be durable and reliable if you follow all the recommendations described above.

People sometimes ask me, is it possible to make a door out of plasterboard? In fact, this is possible, but the reliability of such a product will not be very high; it is much more reasonable to buy a ready-made design.

Conclusion

It is much easier to build an opening from plasterboard than from any other material, so almost anyone who has the desire to carry out the work themselves can handle the job. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments under this review.

October 22, 2016

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As a result of repairs, premises are often redesigned. Moreover, this can be done without affecting load-bearing walls. To increase the area of ​​the premises, interior partitions are demolished - they are much thinner and not designed for a large load. And if it is necessary to divide the space, a plasterboard structure is erected.

Drywall openings

Material characteristics

Drywall is essentially a layer of gypsum between two layers of thick construction paper. At first glance, such a material seems too fragile, but in fact, such a “wall” is constructed from a completely durable steel frame, in which plasterboard sheets serve as finishing.

Drywall

An important advantage of the material is the ability to make a doorway from plasterboard, of any shape and any required size. You can also equip it with doors, but preferably sliding ones and, naturally, the lightest ones. Often they do without them, and the doorway itself is decorated as decoratively as possible - for example, with the help of an arch.

Advantage plasterboard sheets weight:

• the sheets are very light - thickness varies from 0.65 to 1.25 cm, making it easy to construct the most voluminous structures from the material;
• You can purchase gypsum boards at any hardware store and any type - regular, ceiling, heat-resistant, water-resistant;
• flexibility - gypsum boards can be bent within a fairly wide range. In this way, produce curved contours;
• quick installation - the speed cannot be compared with the construction of structures made of brick or stone. In addition, you can work with the sheets yourself; it is only important to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions;
• the material is non-flammable and completely safe.

You can make a screen with doors between rooms from gypsum plasterboard, or close up an opening that is too wide, or change the shape of an existing one.

Installation of an arched opening

Plasterboard wall with a doorway: installation of the structure

The basis of the partition is a steel profile - starting and rack. Its dimensions are determined by the size and, accordingly, the weight of the structure. The frame is sealed with plasterboard of the required type: for example, to separate the kitchen and the living room, a waterproof material will be required.

Plasterboard partition

You also need fasteners that match the type of load-bearing walls.

1. First of all, the parameters of both the structure itself and the opening itself are clarified. There are no restrictions as such. But if a door is to be installed, its weight must be commensurate with the weight of the structure.
2. A sketch is created. By ready-made diagram it is much easier to take into account all the features: for example, strengthening the frame around the future door, constructing additional volumetric elements if a complex design with columns and semi-columns is assumed.
3. Based on the project data, the number of required material– profiles, finishes and fasteners.
4. Markings are made on the surfaces for the future frame. Using the markings, calculate the distance between the fasteners - at least 20 cm, and drill holes in the surfaces.
5. The guide profile is cut according to the calculated data. When installing in a corner, it is recommended to only cut the profile and bend it to an angle of 90 degrees: the structure as a whole will be more durable.
6. According to the diagram, sections of the rack profile are installed in the guide profile. Secure with special self-tapping screws.
7. The finished partition is finished with plasterboard. If necessary, the space between the sheets is sealed with insulation and sound insulation - mineral wool, for example, or sheets of foam.

Video of the editing process interior partition covered in detail.

Drywall doorway

Sometimes you don't need to build a new one interior wall, but just reduce or modify the existing doorway.

Drywall doorway

GCR is also more than suitable for this, the scheme of actions is similar, but the amount of work is noticeably less.

1. Determine the dimensions of the future door and draw up a diagram. The doorway itself is formed by 2 post profiles and a horizontal crossbar. However, depending on how much the initial dimensions need to be reduced, additional racks may be needed.
2. Mark the surfaces and drill holes for fasteners.
3. Following the step-by-step instructions, fix the guide profile, and then install the racks.
4. If you need to reduce the doorway and hang the sash, the structure must be strengthened. To do this, horizontal jumpers are attached between the racks. Their number depends on the size of the expected load.
5. Then the finished frame is sealed soundproofing material and sheathed with plasterboard in the usual manner, as in the photo.

Installation of wall and opening

Drywall arch in the doorway

This design method allows you to do without doors. However, their main advantage is decorativeness, not functionality. The arch can have any shape - semicircular, trapezoidal, angular, complex curvilinear or asymmetrical.

The construction diagram is the same as during installation regular door. However, there are also nuances. In most cases, round, semicircular arches or with rounded corners are constructed, and this requires bending the profile.

You can do it yourself, or you can just order it curved profiles according to the project.

The profile is bent independently by cutting the metal with scissors and bending it as necessary. Then they do the same with drywall. The material is treated with a needle roller: the perforation makes the sheets not so rigid, then they are moistened with water - slightly, and bent. Having dried, the gypsum board accepts the required form. The photo shows the installation of the arch.

It is not so rare for people to remodel their homes. Especially in modern new buildings, where space is not as problematic as, for example, in Khrushchev-era buildings. And if you remember the options for boxes with a free layout, it immediately becomes clear how widely you can swing your “architectural” plans. However, when planning to block off too large an area, you should immediately think about a plasterboard doorway. Otherwise, you can end up in a situation where two rooms are not connected in any way, and there is simply no way to move from one to the other.

Another situation is also possible, especially in old houses: there is a huge and inconvenient passage between rooms. In this case, you need to think about how to reduce the doorway - and using plasterboard is the easiest and most convenient way to do this.

Redevelopment and marking of the doorway

Let us first consider a more complex and labor-intensive process, which involves installing a partition dividing the room into two rooms, with a doorway made of plasterboard placed in it.

When making calculations, do not forget to include an additional 2 cm in the width of the opening: they are hidden when sheathing with sheets.

If you are deciding how to refine and reduce a doorway using drywall, then the steps will be the same, only the frame is set according to the dimensions in which you see the passage between the rooms. If there is no intention to seal the entire room with plasterboard, the rack profiles are attached directly to the sides of the existing opening.

Finishing stage

The general principles of cladding remain traditional, with minor additions.

It is recommended to make the step between fastenings in sheets within 20-30 cm. Self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall with a head depth of 1 millimeter. If you overdid it, and the hardware went in too deep (this can be easily determined by touching with your fingers: you feel a hole, not a smooth area, which means the fastener is too deep), it is unscrewed, an indentation of 5 cm is made, and the self-tapping screw is screwed in again. The unnecessary hole is filled with putty when the doorway is finished - this is also done with your own hands. The joints of adjacent sheets must fit on one rack profile - this must also be taken into account when constructing the frame.

Before installing the door, the usual finishing work is carried out:

1. The corners of a plasterboard doorway are reinforced with perforated metal corner, placed on the starting putty with mandatory checking of the geometry of the entire structure.
2. The starting composition seals the fasteners; when processing joints, serpyanka is added to it.
3. After priming and drying, finishing putty is applied.

When it dries, the slopes are sanded. Since you are unlikely to paint them (or otherwise finish them) under the door frame, there is no need to prime the surface again.

Door installation

The approach to solving the issue is similar to installing a door in any other material.

1. The door frame is being assembled: the door leaf is not hung on it.
2. The jamb is inserted into the opening. The level carefully controls its strict verticality.
3. The box is temporarily fixed with spacer wooden wedges.
4. After the next check, if you are sure that the jamb is not warped, the box is secured with long self-tapping screws to the appropriate posts.
5. Spacers are inserted into the sides of the door to hold the geometry in the last step.
6. The cracks are filled with foam.

After the installation has hardened, the excess is cut off with a sharp knife, the pegs are removed, and final plastering and finishing. And those who are looking for ways to refine a doorway without closing it with doors, just for visual zoning of the room, can make it in the form of an arch without a canvas.