Reinforced belt(armobelt) is a closed reinforced structure, repeating the outline of the building walls and blocking their deformation as a result of load redistribution. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid exposure to adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil settles, etc. The reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armored belt acquires particular relevance when constructing houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.
- This is ordinary masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. At first glance, this approach is simpler than pouring a full-fledged monolithic reinforced concrete belt with reinforcement. However, is this approach sufficient? Will such reinforced masonry replace a full-fledged armored belt? First, let's figure out what types of arm belts there are and what functions are assigned to them.
Main functions of the armored belt
- strengthening walls;
- ensures uniform distribution of loads;
- prevents the formation of cracks;
- promotes alignment brickwork;
- maintaining the integrity of the structure during shrinkage of the house.
Types of reinforced belts
It is customary to distinguish 4 types of reinforced belts.
Grillage.
Grillage- this is the lower, sub-foundation armored belt, which is the key to the strength of the entire building. In addition, it can connect columnar and pile foundation piles. The height of the grillage is from 30 to 50 cm, width - 70 - 120 cm. For production, reinforcement with a thickness of 12 - 14 mm is used. For greater reliability and durability, concrete should cover the reinforcement frame by 5 cm on each side.
Base armored belt
It is laid around the entire perimeter external walls. In the event that slabs serve as the ceiling, it is recommended to do it on all load-bearing walls. The main function of the base reinforced belt is to distribute loads on the foundation. Mesh reinforcement with a height of 20 - 40 cm is used;
Interfloor (unloading) belt
It is constructed to strengthen and tighten the walls, as well as to prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, it absorbs and distributes the load of the entire structure. Placed on all load-bearing walls;
Armobelt under the Mauerlat
An armored belt under the Mauerlat - performs a number of useful functions: it allows you to securely fasten the Mauerlat itself, distributes the load from the roof, gables, rafter system, and levels the horizontal of the entire structure being erected. It is mounted along the perimeter of external walls, in some cases (with inclined rafters) - on the middle load-bearing wall. While creating reinforcement cage the pins go above it. A thread is made at the end of the rods, and corresponding holes are made in the Mauerlat. After the poured concrete has hardened and gained strength, a Mauerlat is installed on the studs and secured with bolts.
When manufacturing armored belts, special requirements are placed on the quality of concrete. It is recommended to use cement grade no lower than M200. The concrete mixture is poured at once, which will allow it to harden evenly and set well. For higher strength, concrete is periodically wetted.
Is it worth making an armored belt out of brick?
So is it worth the risk and instead of making a full-fledged armored belt from concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt from brick? In our opinion - no! Brick masonry is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even if it is reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will result in some fragments and sections of the brickwork experiencing high blood pressure, compared to the rest of the wall, and this is dangerous due to the appearance of cracks and even complete destruction walls. Therefore, it would be right not to take risks and make full reinforcement with an armored belt made of reinforced concrete.
A monolithic belt is a reinforced reinforced concrete beam, which is made mainly under the ceiling of masonry walls.
At first glance, the purpose of such a belt is unclear: you can, after all, support the ceiling directly on the masonry and not install any belts. As they say, “cheap and cheerful.” Let’s look at the reasons for the device monolithic belt.
1. If the masonry material of the walls does not bear the load from the floor. In a brick wall solid brick, for example, a monolithic belt is not needed, but in a cinder block wall when supporting the ceiling of a large span, such a belt is necessary.
At the point where the slab is supported, a significant load is concentrated (from the ceiling, floors, people and furniture), and all of it does not fall evenly on the wall, but increases in the direction where the slabs are supported. Some masonry materials (cinder block, foam and aerated concrete, shell rock, etc.) do not work well when exposed to such a concentrated load, and may simply begin to collapse. This type of failure is called crushing. You can perform a special masonry calculation to determine whether a monolithic distribution belt is needed. But in some cases (when using cinder block, foam concrete), a monolithic belt must be made for design reasons based on experience in construction from these materials.
2. If the building is being built on weak soils (for example, subsidence). Such soils tend to deform significantly after some time, due to soaking or other unfavorable factors - to shrink under the weight of the building. In this case, part of the house may sag, resulting in cracks in the walls and foundation. One of the measures that protects against the adverse effects of subsidence is the installation of a continuous monolithic belt under the floors. It serves as a screed for the house and, with minor precipitation, can prevent the formation of cracks. If you are going to build a house, first of all inspect the houses in the neighboring areas (preferably those that were built a long time ago). If there are inclined cracks in the walls, running from the ground up, from the roof down, or from the corners of the windows up, then this is the first sign that a monolithic belt in your house will not be superfluous.
3. If a house is being built in a seismic area (in Ukraine this is Crimea), the installation of monolithic belts is mandatory.
4. In multi-storey buildings, the standards also require the installation of monolithic belts.
How to make a monolithic belt - see the topic "Prefabricated floor or monolith" .
Attention! For the convenience of answering your questions, a new section “FREE CONSULTATION” has been created.
Comments
0 #61 Irina 05/06/2013 19:00
I quote Angelina Wat:
I want as much as I need, because every builder thinks and speaks differently
In order to find out how much of something is needed, you need to know what is available: the layout of the house, the presence of load-bearing walls or columns, the distance between them, the load on the upper floor from the floors, partitions - this is the required minimum.
Hello! The foundation is not buried. Partially - self-construction, but the path of construction was determined by a man who has been involved in foundations for more than 50 years, a professor at our University, an honored builder of the Republic of Karelia (and other regalia).
If the soil was normal, coarse crushed stone was brought in in very large quantities, poured at a height of about 50-70 cm above the ground level, and in area protruding beyond the perimeter of the future foundation by a couple of meters on each side. Leveled. Then a large construction vibratory roller was found (it was working half a kilometer away at the site), which hammered this crushed stone for a couple of hours. To be honest, only the first “passes” of the vibratory roller apparently drilled through the crushed stone. After this, to level the horizon level, thin layer on top of the crushed stone there is sand. Next is waterproofing along the top, formwork and reinforcement. I knitted the reinforcement for the first time, myself. 14th reinforcement, along the perimeter and in the area of load-bearing walls (under the wall and a meter to the right and left) every 10 centimeters, the rest - 15 cm. Two planes at a distance of 30 centimeters from each other. They recommended knitting the reinforcement less frequently, and a thickness of 30 centimeters is sufficient. A foundation 12 by 12 meters took 5 tons of reinforcement, and with a thickness of 42 cm - 66 cubic meters of concrete grade 250. I understand that I may have over-laid the foundation a little, but that year I was looking for people to do foundation work. For the work they asked for 200 thousand rubles. and higher. I decided that it was better to invest this money in the foundation than in improving the well-being of strangers. During the two weeks of vacation, we slowly tied the reinforcement with the help of my father. I was confident in every detail. They filled it with imported concrete in 5 hours using a concrete pump at the Isuzu vehicle base. I plan to start laying the walls as soon as the snow melts; the bricks are already on the site. I will reinforce the walls conscientiously. Now I'm looking for decent masons. They have too many demands at the moment. They ask for 2800 rubles for rough masonry. per cube, and additional payments for every movement of the hand and turn of the head.
They push it under the slabs to make an armored belt 5 cm thick, with two thin reinforcement bars inside. It is clear that this, like an armored belt, is of little use. Just a leveling screed. It’s clear that you’ll have to do the screed this way, but is it worth bothering with a full-fledged armored belt 30-40 centimeters thick and appropriate reinforcement - THAT’S THE QUESTION! I will be grateful for any constructive advice. The fact is that with aerated concrete there would be no questions, I would definitely do it. And with bricks - it’s not clear yet. It seems that brick, as a material for load-bearing walls in private housing construction, has generally gone out of fashion. All are built exclusively from aerated concrete.
After you've finished construction of a concrete block foundation or laid it out of rubble stone, it must be done. Some inexperienced developers, not understanding the importance of a monolithic belt, do not make it, trying to save money on it. And this is an unforgivable mistake! The monolithic reinforced concrete belt of your home is a kind of strong and reliable belt on your trousers, which, regardless of how and where you rip your trousers, tear off a button or zipper, will keep them on you in any situation! (For some reason this association came to my mind! :) the main task such a belt is to ensure the strength of the foundation in the event of local subsidence of the soil underneath it. In addition, such a belt connects the entire foundation into one whole, which gives it additional spatial rigidity.
The minimum height of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is 200 mm. As a rule, it is carried out across the entire width of the foundation, because it is much easier and easier to install. formwork for monolithic belt. The quality of the monolithic belt directly depends on the quality of the formwork. Previously, formwork for a monolithic reinforced concrete belt was made from edged boards 40 mm thick. The material is not bad, in principle, it may be enough for the construction of one house. And yet, the quality of the front surface of the belt with such formwork is low. It is best to use moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard for formwork. For several years now we have been making formwork for monolithic belts from moisture-resistant chipboard. Having cut the sheet, which has dimensions of 2500x1250mm, lengthwise into two equal parts, you need to strengthen the resulting blanks with dimensions of 2500x620mm wooden slats with a cross section of 40x40 or 50x50mm, securing it around the perimeter with 3.5x55mm screws. Also, to ensure that the middle of the formwork panels does not sag over time from high humidity, you need to strengthen it with several short slats of the same section. Before installing such formwork panels, they must be opened each time using any water-repellent composition. The easiest option is to use used motor oil.
We install these formwork panels by using
metal pins with a diameter of 12-16mm. The length of such studs should exceed not only the width of the future belt, but also the thickness of the formwork. To the resulting size you need to add another 40-50mm - for nuts and washers. Using such a pin, we tighten two panels together, and in order to accurately maintain the required width of the monolithic belt and easily remove the pin after the concrete has set, we use liners made from the cheapest plumbing plastic pipe with a diameter of 16-20 mm. In the photo, everything that I am trying to explain in words, you can see and understand the principle of installing formwork for a monolithic belt in this way. Install the studs in
two tiers: the lower tier is laid directly on the foundation, under bottom reinforcement frame, while plastic tube serves as a kind of guarantor of the mandatory 20 mm protective layer of concrete for reinforcement. The top tier of studs sits directly above the bottom tier. Depending on the height of the belt, for the upper studs, if they are higher than the concrete, tube liners may not be used.
For a shield 2500 mm long you need six of these studs. Holes for studs are best made in vertical reinforcement bars
formwork panels. In this case, the shields will last you much longer. I write “pin”, although in fact a metal rod is suitable for such fastening required diameter with threads 50 mm long cut on each side. Alternatively, you can make a stud with threads on only one side, securing a plug of any material on the other side.
This method of installing formwork is very convenient because it does not require large quantity additional wooden fastening for securing shields. Depending on the height of the belt, only a few braces will be required to ensure verticality installed formwork. Reinforcement frames and meshes best knitted using tying wire, but can also be made using welding machine. The height of the frame should be 40mm less than the height of the belt. The frame of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is made of A-III reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm, which is arranged in two tiers. For a wall 400mm wide, three reinforcement bars in two tiers are sufficient. BP-I wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm can be used as mounting fittings.
First, reinforcement cages are laid on the wall, after which the formwork is installed. You can mark the top of the concrete belt on the formwork using a level, a hydraulic level or a regular
level, although the latter can only be used with a short belt length. The standard grade of concrete for a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is M250. It is best to lay it in the formwork using an in-depth vibrator, the use of which guarantees high quality finished belt. By the way, the use of such studs will definitely prevent the concrete from pushing the formwork apart. If you are going to fill monolithic reinforced concrete belt small width, these studs can also be used, regardless of their length, by inserting additional liners from the outside of the stud so that the nut can press the outer liner to the formwork.
After you remove the formwork, only the end of the tube with the hole will be visible on its surface. After filling it out polyurethane foam or just a solution, the installation of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt can be considered complete.
The reinforcement in the reinforced belt consists of working reinforcement (10-12mm), and structural reinforcement of a smaller diameter (frame - 6mm). Often, reinforcement is made of 4 or 6 rods. In this article we will describe in detail and show reinforcement schemes, methods of bending reinforcement and other nuances of the reinforced belt.
The reinforcement frame is needed in order to fix the working reinforcement in the correct position. That is, two or three bars of reinforcement at the bottom of the reinforced belt, and two bars at the top.
For a frame, fittings with a diameter of 6 mm are quite suitable; you can even use thick wire.
The size of the frame should correspond to the thickness of your wall, taking into account the insulation and protective layer of concrete. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is best suited as insulation.
Often the frame has edge dimensions of approximately 120-200 mm.
Such square frames can be easily made in the following way.
We take a board (20-50 mm thick. 200 mm wide), draw a square, for example, 150 by 150 mm, drill a hole in the corners of the square.
The holes should be about 9mm so that the 10mm reinforcement fits tightly. The reinforcing bars themselves should be about half a meter long.
Place the board on the ground, hammer four reinforcing bars through the holes of the board into the ground. The template for bending the frames is ready. It is more convenient to bend the reinforcement along the frame using a pipe. For such a frame, the reinforcement blanks should be about 600 mm long.
Working fittings of the armored belt
The working reinforcement is a thick ribbed wire with a diameter of 10 mm, preferably 12 mm. The working reinforcement in the armored belt works in bending, creating high rigidity of the structure. The reinforcement must be continuous (circular) and pass over all load-bearing walls. If the building has very long openings, then the places of the reinforced belt above the openings need to be reinforced with an additional lower reinforcement bar.
The working fittings must be inside the frame, and are tied to the frames with ordinary binding wire; welding is not needed here.
- The height of the armored belt is made from 200 to 300 mm.
- The distance between frames should be from 200 to 400mm.
- The overlap of the reinforcing bars should be 500 mm.
- To reduce the consumption of reinforcement, it is better to use longer rods to reduce the number of overlaps.
- Don't forget about protective layer concrete, which should be 40 mm on all sides.
At the corners, be sure to bend the working reinforcement and use additional reinforcement clamps, see the diagram below. It is convenient to bend the reinforcement using a long pipe.
Reinforcement schemes for armored belts
It is also worth noting that it is better to install the reinforcement cage at the place where it is poured, since when assembled it will weigh a lot.
The formwork must be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete. Special attention Pay attention to leveling the formwork along all planes.
If professional tool If you don’t have concrete to vibrate, you can use the following method: take a hammer drill and use the hammer mode to hit the reinforcement, the concrete is compacted and air bubbles come out.
Without exception, any structure made of any block materials will be constantly exposed to natural phenomena - soil swelling, building settlement, and other ground movement. In addition, increased winds and rain can also affect the integrity of the entire building. It is to eliminate various movements of the building that a concrete reinforced belt is installed over the walls. We’ll talk about how to make an armored belt with your own hands in this article.
Armored belt device
A reinforcing belt, or as it is sometimes called a seismic belt, makes it possible improve strength throughout the house, and also allows prevent cracking of walls as a result of soil movement with the foundation and under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. In addition, if you make an armored belt correctly, it Allows for even distribution of loads from the roof or concrete floors located above it.
Please pay attention! Even if the floors in the house are made of wood, the need to make an armored belt does not disappear. The type of overlap does not determine whether to make an armored belt or not. In any case, the belt should close all the walls.
Everything is clear about the purpose of the armored belt. Now a few words about its design. An ordinary reinforced belt has two standard elements - a rigid volumetric frame made of reinforcement, as well as the concrete in which it is located. In general, everything is quite simple, but making an armored belt with your own hands without studying your features will probably be difficult.
How to make an armored belt - sequence
In order to determine the complexity of the work, as well as for more detailed analysis How a reinforced belt is made, we will break down the manufacturing technology into several stages. We can say that we will provide specific instructions for making an armored belt.
Metal frame made of reinforcement
It is necessary to begin assembling the frame by installing pieces of reinforcement at the top of the wall. To do this, you either need to simply drive in pieces, if the density of the material allows it, or drill holes and insert pieces into them. The reinforcement is installed at the intersection points of the walls and along the entire perimeter of the structure every 1-1.5 meters. The segments are installed in squares of four pieces; they will determine the dimensions of the entire frame. After this, you need to secure the lower longitudinal row of reinforcement at a height of 3-4 cm from the top edge of the wall. To do this, longitudinal rods are tied to vertically mounted pins using knitting wire. In this way, two parallel rods are secured.
After the longitudinal reinforcement is installed, it must be connected with short jumpers every 2.5-3 cm. For jumpers, you need to use pieces of reinforcement.
Vertical sections are also installed in a similar way. The upper longitudinal row of reinforcement will later be attached to them. The top row will be attached in the same way and with the same pitch as the horizontal one. The length of the segments will depend on the total thickness of the armored belt. The recommended thickness of the armored belt is 200 – 250 mm. From these dimensions it is necessary to determine the length of the vertical segments. Longitudinal reinforcement bars are again attached to the vertical sections, which are then secured with transverse sections. In general, everything is exactly the same as with the lower level of the longitudinal rods.
Formwork
At this stage, you can proceed in two ways: either install permanent formwork, or make a collapsible one from boards. The most the best option There will be a collapsible design. It is assembled from almost any boards or sheet materials. During the construction of the formwork, it is necessary to monitor its upper edge - the difference should not be more than 1 cm.
The ideal option would be combined system, in which on one side it will be non-removable, and on the other, after the poured solution has hardened, it will be removed. If the facade is finished with any material or insulated, then front side you can install permanent polystyrene formwork, which will later become one of the elements of the insulating layer. By inside You can install a regular board or OSB, which can be fixed with improvised hardware and fasteners. The same cannot be said about working with foam concrete, which has its own.
The most difficult moment here will be connecting the two parts of the armored belt formwork. Here you need to approach it with all responsibility and think about how to connect two opposite parts in such a way that the poured concrete does not crush them on the sides. To do this, you need to secure wooden spacers along the upper edge of the formwork in increments of 30–40 cm, and you can also tighten it with wire. To fasten with wire, you need to drill holes in the boards and thread the wire through, which will tighten the two parts of the structure. After the solution has hardened, simply bite off this wire with side cutters and it will remain inside the armored belt. After screeding, you can proceed to the next stage of construction of the reinforcing belt.
Pouring concrete
Everything here is not difficult enough, except for lifting the concrete inside the formwork from above the wall. But this issue can be easily sorted out when ordering. Companies providing concrete delivery services have the opportunity to order a concrete pump, which pumps the solution to any point of the reinforced belt being poured.
Let’s also say a few words about the quality of the concrete mixture and the method of preparing it if you prepare it yourself. When ordering, the brand must be at least B15. But if you cook it yourself, the composition will be as follows: one bucket of cement and two buckets of crushed stone and sand. It is best to prepare the concrete mixture thicker, because... it will not crush the formwork too much. However, such a solution has its own nuance - the mixture in the formwork must be carefully compacted and compacted. Ideally, a deep vibrator is used for this, but it is not often found in domestic construction. For compaction, you can use either a piece of reinforcement or a piece of wooden block, with which the entire solution in the formwork is carefully compacted.
Completion
The final stage of making an armored belt with your own hands is to control the hardening of the concrete. Immediately after pouring the concrete mixture, it is best to cover it with cellophane film. This is necessary to reduce moisture loss and the appearance of cracks in the armored belt. After a few days, when the initial strength has been gained, the formwork can be removed (removable). By the way, we advise you to read the article ““.
That's basically all. Let us clarify only one detail, which concerns the waterproofing of the armored belt. Usually a mauerlat is laid on the armored belt for further installation of the roof. To do this, you need to lay roofing felt or other modern material on the concrete surface. bitumen material for waterproofing. In this way, you can protect the base of your roof from incoming moisture from the walls.
What is an armored belt and why is it needed?
Modern construction technologies are aimed at ensuring the stability of erected buildings and increasing the service life. After all, construction sites are exposed to natural factors associated with wind loads, precipitation, and the reaction of unstable soils. The structure of the buildings being erected requires reliable reinforcement, which is provided by an armored belt - a solid contour made of reinforced concrete, encircling the walls along a closed perimeter.
The reinforced belt along the load-bearing walls ensures high strength of the structure, increases the stability of the building, and compensates for significant loads. A solid reinforced concrete contour makes it difficult for the building to deform due to shrinkage of the base, temperature and seismic factors, as well as snow cover and wind loads. Creating a concrete belt around the perimeter of the building, reinforced with steel rods, makes it possible to form a monolithic frame, which makes it difficult for cracks to appear and increases the rigidity of the structure.
Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for long
There is no need to ask whether a reinforcing belt is needed. It is required during the construction of any residential and industrial facilities, ensuring reliability, stability and long service life of buildings. Let's go into detail about why ring reinforcement is performed and what materials are required. Let's look at how to make a seismic belt on your own.
On the feasibility of strengthening
What is an armored belt and why is it necessary? What caused the need to form a reinforced concrete ring around the perimeter of the building? What it is? Let's deal with all the questions in order. The reinforced belt along the load-bearing walls represents a monolithic concrete contour, repeating the closed configuration of the building and reinforced with a reinforcement frame. An armored belt is formed to solve the following problems:
- provision horizontal level blocks in masonry;
- compensation of thrust forces created by the rafter system;
- preventing deformation of main walls;
- proportional distribution of current efforts;
- reducing the likelihood of cracks;
- reducing negative factors associated with uneven shrinkage building.
Armopoyas is a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction
There are several factors that a reinforced belt along load-bearing walls can prevent:
- The elements of the truss structure are fixed to the walls of the building using fastening anchors that violate the integrity of the blocks made of cellular concrete. The result of attaching the rafters to aerated concrete blocks without a reinforcement contour – cracks appear, integrity is damaged, strength decreases.
- Located at an angle to the walls, truss structure creates expansion loads that cause deformation of the walls of the building. By forming an armored belt to counteract thrust forces, it is possible to ensure uniform distribution of acting loads along the height of the building.
- The reinforced concrete contour makes it difficult to deform main walls that have window and door openings, which perceive the acting forces differently.
The need to strengthen the perimeter of a building is especially relevant when constructing buildings made of cellular concrete, which are prone to destruction under the influence of bending forces. Knowing how to make a seismic belt, you can form a reliable edging, reinforced with a steel reinforced frame that compensates effective loads, ensuring the integrity of the structure.
Classification and purpose
Information about the types of reinforcement circuits will help answer the question of what an armored belt is and why it is needed. The stability of the structure is ensured by the following types of unloading belts:
Protects foundations and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil
- base unloading belt, which, according to construction terminology, called a grillage, is concreted when forming the foundation belt type. The concrete belt, reinforced with a reinforcement frame, repeats the location of the main walls. The structure absorbs significant forces from the mass of the structure and the reaction of the soil;
- basement edging is the second level of reinforcement located above the foundation. The width of the contour corresponds to the thickness of the walls, allowing you to proportionally distribute the forces acting on the base. The design features of the belt located between the foundation and the main walls are provided for by the building design;
- the third unloading circuit is located between the upper level of the building walls and the floor slabs located between the floors. The one-piece reinforced structure of the belt ensures the immobility of load-bearing walls and makes it difficult for cracks to form. The belt provides proportional distribution of loads acting from interfloor slabs to the outline of the building. It reduces the likelihood of deformations in the area of openings;
- the last unloading belt is located under the roof of the building and is the basis for the Mauerlat. Fastening rafter system, consisting of parallel roofing beams, is produced anchor elements at the final level of strengthening the building. A closed concrete contour compensates for the loads created by the roof, which absorbs the mass of snow cover, precipitation, and wind loads.
A reinforced concrete belt is constructed around the perimeter of the building. The basis is a frame assembled from reinforcement. It is filled with a liquid concrete solution. And so that concrete mixture did not spread, the formwork is assembled under the armored belt. Let's figure out how to assemble this structure correctly.
Why do you need to build an armored belt?
In what cases is the installation of an armored belt necessary? The purpose of this structure is to strengthen buildings built from gas or foam concrete, brick and other materials that do not provide sufficiently high structural rigidity. The structure is necessary in the following cases:
- if the house is built on a shallow foundation;
- when constructing buildings on sites that have a significant slope;
- if there is a river or ravine at a short distance from the facility under construction;
- for certain soil characteristics at the construction site;
- during construction in seismically active areas.
The technology for building houses from block materials involves the construction of several armored belts, namely:
- the lowest reinforcing belt is poured into a trench dug under the foundation. The armored belt is installed around the perimeter and at the location of the load-bearing walls;
- the next reinforcing structure is located in the basement of the building, its main function is to distribute the load;
- another reinforcing belt is installed at the floor level between the first and second floors. Its functions are to tighten walls and redistribute the load over window and door openings;
- the upper belt is mounted at the level ceiling upper floor to redistribute the loads exerted by the roof.
To build an armored belt with your own hands, you must first assemble the formwork. Let's look at how this structure is mounted.
Types of formwork for armored belts
The formwork for the armored belt can be mounted different ways. The main design options are removable and non-removable. In addition, can be used various materials for assembling molds for filling.
Fixed
The simplest installation option is installation without removable formwork. The disadvantage of this method is the increase in costs, since the molds used are used once and remain in the belt structure forever. For installation they are already used ready-made blocks made of polystyrene foam, the owners just have to install them correctly.
Advice! The use of polystyrene foam blocks is additional insulation at home because they are naked reinforced concrete structures are bridges of cold.
The blocks are available in a wide range of sizes, so it is easy to purchase material for the construction of formwork for armored belts of any size. Assembling a structure from blocks is as simple as possible, since they have fastenings and are connected to each other according to the “groove-tenon” principle.
Removable
If you do not plan to purchase ready-made blocks for installing formwork, then you can assemble removable systems using boards. This is a removable option; the assembled formwork is disassembled after the solution has hardened and moved to another place.
The use of adjustable structures allows you to save on materials. This option is more labor-intensive, since you will have to install the forms yourself. Carrying out this work requires care and precision.
Installation of formwork
Let's figure out how to make formwork for an armored belt. We will consider the option of constructing removable formwork from boards. Installation of formwork for armored belt is carried out as follows:
- 20 mm wide boards are used for assembly;
- The height of the belt should be 30 cm;
- the width must be equal to the width of the main structure, that is, the width of the foundation or the width of the wall;
- The first formwork board is screwed around the perimeter of the part to be strengthened. Subsequent boards are installed on top, close to each other, the gap between the boards should be minimal. The boards are knocked together into panels using bars. It is better to fasten the structure with self-tapping screws, but you can also use nails;
- to give the shape the necessary rigidity, bars according outside stuffed every 0.7 meters. The bars are placed strictly vertically;
- To further strengthen the structure, wire ties are installed between the parallel panels. The ties should be placed in increments of 0.8-1.0 meters;
- The last stage is checking the quality of installation. It is necessary to make sure that the walls of the formwork are positioned strictly vertically, and that the structure itself is strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the concrete mixture;
- in addition, you need to make sure that there are no cracks, otherwise the solution will flow out through them. Wide cracks are clogged with overhead slats, narrow cracks with tow.
Dismantling of formwork
Dismantling of wooden forms should begin after the concrete has hardened. There is no need to wait for the concrete to gain full strength. You can dismantle the forms as soon as the solution hardens on top.
Disassembly is not particularly difficult. First, remove the wire ties, then disassemble the structure into parts. After cleaning and drying, the boards can be used to assemble formwork in another area.
So, in some cases, installation of an armored belt is mandatory. This is a reinforcing structure that increases the reliability of the building. To construct it, you must first assemble the formwork. It can be quickly assembled from ready-made polystyrene foam blocks or knocked together yourself from boards and wooden blocks.
