When laying tiles, control two points: parallel arrangement rows (their curvature along the perimeter of the floor is unacceptable) and the overall smoothness of the floor - this means that each tiled element will be located in the same plane as the others. Check this with a level.

Calculation of required materials

Let's calculate the amount of required materials using an example standard bath. The room has a rectangular configuration, its area is 2.5x4 meters, and the ceilings reach a height of 2.9 meters.

A bathtub will be installed in this room, the length of which is 1.9 meters, height - 80 cm, width 90 cm.

Note that you can calculate the number of tiles required for finishing using a special calculator. But keep in mind that you can calculate it manually various options, but only approximate calculations are possible with a calculator.

If you wish, you can complicate the task and calculate the density of the seams, but this is pointless. The final result will take into account the 10-15% break that will occur when cutting and delivering the material.

The total area of ​​the walls is 37.7 square meters. meters. But it should be taken into account that the place under the font will be masked by small walls, so the area of ​​two walls located on the sides is taken into account. The total area will be 39.5 square meters. m. You should also take into account the area under the bathroom, which is hidden behind the walls. The area will be 7.9 square meters.

To decorate the walls, 0.25x0.4 tiles, 8 pcs each, will be used. in one package. Considering the total area of ​​the wall surfaces, approximately 50 packs will be required for finishing, but a reserve of 1 pack is required. There are 51 packs in total. For the floor you need 30x30 cm tiles, 10 units per pack. In total you will need 9 packs.

Read about what kind exists, what it is used for, how it is attached to the walls - all the details of mesh plaster.

You can learn more about the features of applying bark beetle plaster in the article.

The glue consumption depends on the density of the adhesive layer and the size of the spatula used; the angle of inclination and the degree of pressure during the application of the mixture are also important. The approximate consumption of the primer mixture is from 100 to 250 ml per 1 square. meter. The required volume of grout can be found out by taking into account the dimensions of the room, the area of ​​the wall surfaces and the floor; in total you will need 13.28 kg of grout mixture.

The floor is leveled by pouring screed with self-leveling properties with a density of 10 mm. Taking into account the area of ​​the room, you will need 6 packages of 25 kg each.

In this example, budget tiles were used; its price is a key factor in the final cost repair work. When using tiles with a pattern or creating diagonal masonry, repairs will cost more.

IN budget option repair costs will be approximately 22 thousand rubles. By purchasing materials for this amount, you can beautifully decorate the interior of your bathroom.

Cost of work

How much does it cost to lay tiles in a bathroom per 1 sq. meter? Prices for third-party services and rates in construction companies depend on the region of residence. The average cost in Russia is from 800 to 1100 rubles. for 1 sq. m when laying regular tiles.

Porcelain tiles are laid at a price of 800-1400 rubles per 1 square meter, but the most expensive work is work on marble tiles: laying 1 m2 of such material costs 1,400-2,000 rubles.

Video

Ceramic tiles are one of the most successful and inexpensive materials for finishing walls and floors in the bathroom. You can install it yourself, and the detailed information given in this article step by step instructions and videos with tips and rules self-installation bathroom tiles on drywall will help you cope with this task without errors:

An instructional article for those who decided to lay tiles in the bathroom without any construction experience. The work process is described in detail: preparing the room, leveling the walls, tiling the walls with ceramic tiles. Recommendations from experienced tilers are given.

High-quality bathroom tiling involves using the most practical finishing material, meeting increased moisture resistance requirements. Bathrooms are traditionally tiled with ceramic tiles, which are highly durable, impervious to moisture and easy to clean.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions, and watch the video “Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands in the bathroom” so that you can do all the work yourself on high level and avoid possible mistakes.

List of required tools:

• building level, square;
• grinder and tile cutter;
• metal and plastic spatulas;
• mixer;
• rule;
• roller;
• sponge for removing excess glue;
• gloves, protective mask or goggles;
• construction garbage bags.

Before laying tiles in the bathroom, you need to prepare all the necessary materials, choose the appropriate tile size, and most importantly, correctly calculate its quantity. If your budget allows, preference should be given to AA grade tiles, which are distinguished by the most high quality and has a minimum number of pores into which moisture can penetrate, forming mold.

Important! Tiles intended for placement on bathroom walls are marked with special hand icons, while floor tiles are marked with a foot icon.

Of course, laying large tiles is easier and faster, the number of seams is reduced, but this option is not suitable for small room, as it will visually make it even smaller. A medium-sized rectangular tile will “raise” the ceiling slightly.

Ceramic tiles are laid using a special cement-based adhesive or adhesive mastic. For this, a special powder tile adhesive is used, previously diluted in water.

If the cladding involves the use of small-sized tiles, then you can take a special glue without additives, but if you are laying large-sized porcelain tiles, you will need reinforced glue.

Laying tiles is more convenient and faster when using special plastic crosses, which should definitely be purchased at hardware store- they will help make the seams even.

(As a last resort, you can use matches, but they will give a certain error, unlike plastic crosses.)

How to calculate the required number of tiles

To avoid unnecessary expenses and not to buy extra material, or vice versa, not to urgently run to the store for the missing quantity, you need to correctly calculate the number of tiles.

To do this, it is mandatory to take measurements of the room, taking into account the location of the washbasin, bathtub and other plumbing fixtures: it is advisable to draw a plan in compliance with exact scale each individual wall, and then draw the contours of the future tiles on it and calculate its exact quantity.

Advice! Buy tiles from the same batch to avoid texture differences and color mismatches.

You should take the material in reserve - laying tiles in the bathroom is not complete without trimming, in any case there will be a certain percentage of waste.

You should carry out calculations especially responsibly if you have chosen tiles with a pattern. 10% should be added to the planned amount of material (and for those who are performing work for the first time, you can safely add the entire 15%).

Stage I. Preparing a room for renovation

1. All furniture, mirrors and other objects that will interfere with the work are removed. The water supply is cut off; it is advisable to dismantle the plumbing, if possible;
2. The old covering (tiles, plastic panels, paint, etc.), which is packed into bags and taken out as construction waste;
3. The walls must be leveled - you can determine how smooth the wall is using a square and a level or using a plumb line. You can easily handle the application of plaster with your own hands;
4. The walls are primed using a roller, and after drying, beacons are attached to them leveled with wet glue (the beacons must be on the same vertical plane). After this, you need to let the surface dry completely;
5. The surface of the walls is re-primed, after which the solution is prepared and the tiles are laid in the bathroom.

Another option for leveling the walls is possible - laying tiles on drywall. In this case, sheets of plasterboard (moisture-resistant) are attached to the profiles, and then the tiles are directly laid on the plasterboard using an adhesive solution.

This option is much simpler and allows you to achieve maximum flat surface wall necessary for the tiles to adhere well and lie flat.

Stage II. Preparation of the solution

It is better to use special glue, but if you don’t have it, you can do without it.

Cement-based mortar can be easily prepared with your own hands:

• take cement and sand in a ratio of 1:4;
• constantly stirring the mixture with a mixer, add the required amount of water in a thin stream until a thick solution is obtained;
• added to the solution construction mastic or bustylate, which enhances its adhesive properties.

A solution based on a dry mixture is even easier to prepare: just pour water into a container and gradually add the dry mixture until the slightest lumps disappear from the glue. It is also convenient to use a construction mixer for this.

Important! While the solution is being prepared, the tiles must be placed in water, since it back side instantly absorbs moisture contained in the solution. If you forget to do this, before laying the tiles in the bathroom, first wet them in a bucket of water. It is recommended to prime cheap tile products with a mixture of PVA and water in a ratio of 1:10.

Stage III. Laying tiles on the wall

• Before gluing the tiles, the height is measured again, which is divided by the size of the tiles - using a tile cutter, the tiles are cut so that the cut pieces can be used below, that is, in places where they are less noticeable.

  Attention! When working with a grinder or tile cutter, do not forget to wear safety glasses, a mask and gloves!

• The solution is thrown onto the wall with sharp movements and leveled in a circular motion; the excess is removed by hand using a rule.

• The rail is fixed at the bottom along the height of the cut tiles plus 3-5 mm for the seam, but the row itself will be laid out from a whole tile, and the trimmings will be laid at the very end, that is, after all the other rows have been laid.
• Using a metal notched trowel, apply a small amount of adhesive to the tile, and then press it against the wall, turning it slightly along its axis.
  

  Advice! After you lay the first row with your own hands, let the glue set - this will allow you not to be afraid of displacement when laying the next rows.

• To achieve equal gaps between the products, plastic crosses are used - after gluing the tiles is finished, the solution is allowed to dry, and then the crosses are carefully removed.

After the bottom layer is ready, planks should be installed on its sides, checking their correct location using a level. In order not to check the level on each row, you can use a thread stretched horizontally along the height of the tiles above the row - it will become an excellent guide and will significantly speed up the laying process.

Important! If there is a break between laying rows, you should make sure that there is no mortar left on the wall - when it dries, removing it will be problematic, and the tiles will lie less firmly and risk falling off in the future.

Stage IV. Grouting tile joints

After all work is completed, the tiles are carefully cleaned of any remaining adhesive and mortar. Since the solution is still wet, you need to remove the residue very carefully, or it is better to wait until it dries and wash the surface of the tiles without risking moving the rows.

In order for the cladding to have a complete look, final stage After the mixture has completely dried, seams are necessary. It's better to give preference

Updated: 08/24/2019

Tile is a very strong, durable and wear-resistant material. That is why this type finishing coating so popular. In apartments, tiles are most often used to finish the floors of bathrooms, kitchens, halls and hallways. In addition, the floor is often finished with tiles public organizations: banks, shops, offices, beauty salons; tiles are often used to cover the floors of socially significant facilities: hospitals, hospitals and children's institutions. And this is not surprising, because this material is so easy to clean, suitable for rooms where many people pass daily, and can withstand heavy loads. In addition, the tiled floor looks very aesthetically pleasing.

Floor tiles should not only please you with their appearance, but also have the thickness characteristic of floor tiles. It is also important to take into account the specifics of the room whose floor it will cover. Taking into account this specificity, you need to decide what abrasion class the floor covering should have.

Bathroom tiles

The bathroom usually does not have high traffic. Therefore, you can buy any floor tiles that you like; you don’t have to pay attention to the abrasion class. The tile must simply be resistant to aggressive influences. detergents and water. We also recommend choosing tiles with a non-slip, non-gloss surface. This is necessary for your safety.

The kitchen floor gets dirty quite often. And not only dust and pet hair, but also fatty sauces, milk and broth can act as contamination. Therefore, to make cleaning easier, we recommend avoiding tiles with a textured or porous surface for kitchen floors.

In addition, in the kitchen there is a risk of knives, plates and any other objects falling. Therefore, kitchen floor tiles must be durable. You should choose from samples designated as no less than the third class of abrasion.

Due to the fact that the traffic of the hall or hallway is high, for finishing the floor, choose tiles with the fourth class of wear resistance.

There are three main methods for laying tile flooring.

"Seam to seam"

Laying floor tiles "seam to seam"

This method is preferred for the first time independent experience laying tiles with your own hands. It is the simplest and even beginners can do this layout. You can even imitate a chess pattern using square tiles two colors.

"Running"

This method resembles brickwork and it looks very interesting. Allows you to create a laminate effect when laying rectangular tiles with wood texture. Recommended for use by professionals with some experience. In addition, this method allows you to install different sizes of tiles on the floor. With a well-thought-out design, you can get an unusual and beautiful floor.

Diagonally

This is perhaps the most beautiful, but also the most difficult method of laying tiles. Only those craftsmen who have considerable experience behind them should do such work with their own hands. This technique allows you to hide defects in the room, for example, it will not be noticeable that the walls in your kitchen are far from perpendicular to each other. Laying tiles diagonally can even optically expand a room. When performing this pattern, laying the tiles starts from the corner, and not from the center, as in other cases.

Possible installation errors and their consequences

In the case of floor tiles, annoying shortcomings can be made even before installation begins. When purchasing tiles, you should not save too much. The most cheap tiles It has poor geometry, which means it will be impossible to lay it down neatly. Choose your tiles wisely, remember that the stingy pays twice!

When purchasing glue or a mixture for its preparation, monitor the expiration date and compliance with storage conditions. The mixture must be fresh and not frozen. Usually the shelf life is 1 year, but some tile installers prefer to use mixtures produced no earlier than 6 months before the date of installation. Perhaps the opinions of professionals should be listened to. But the price does not matter when choosing glue.

If you forget about the required supply of tiles, then your floor may end up with a covering of different shades. The same item in different batches may have subtle differences. To avoid patchy tiles on your floor, purchase 10% more tiles for a seam-to-seam installation and 15% more for a diagonal installation.

If you have not carefully leveled the base, the coating will be sloppy and uneven. Subsequently, some tiles may even move away from the base. To avoid wasting time and money on dismantling poor-quality coverings and laying new tiles, approach the preparation of the base as carefully as possible.

If you neglected waterproofing when preparing the base, it could cost you big money in case of a breakthrough water pipes. If your neighbors below are flooded, you will have to voluntarily or legally compensate for the damage caused.

If the preliminary layout is done incorrectly, then cut tiles may be visible. You can try to hide this aesthetic defect, for example, with cabinets or floor planters. A more radical method is dismantling floor tiles and laying new tiles according to a carefully thought-out plan.

The advantages of a tiled floor include the following qualities:

• attractive appearance;
• abrasion resistance;
• ease of cleaning;
• environmental friendliness;
• strength;
• durability;
• moisture resistance.

Tiled floors have the following disadvantages:

• injury hazard;
• if dropped on a tiled floor, ceramic dishes are guaranteed to break;
• a frying pan or other similar object falling on the floor is likely to split the tile;
• complexity of installation;
• need for heating.

Step-by-step instruction

All work on laying a tiled floor can be divided into two blocks.

Preparation of the base and its waterproofing

Tiles should only be laid on a perfectly flat floor. You should never assume that minor unevenness in the floor can be leveled out by using a thick layer of mortar to attach the tiles to the floor. The tiles should be attached to a small layer of mortar, which should be applied evenly over the entire area.

Before proceeding with the installation of tiles, you need to make a special leveling layer -. It is preferable to lay the tiles on concrete screed, but in the hallway and in the kitchen you can install a tiled floor on a wooden subfloor.

In this case, each floorboard will need to be processed using a manual or electric sander, then the remaining irregularities will need to be sanded, and then the cracks will need to be puttied and sealed. Alternatively, you can level the wooden subfloor with a moisture-resistant material. Use sheets with a thickness of 12 mm or more.

In the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, that is, in those rooms where there is a high risk of water pipes breaking, it is also necessary to make a waterproofing layer. This is a very important part of preparing the base for a tiled floor. Properly performed waterproofing will help you avoid unnecessary expenses. In the event of any accident, the water will remain in your apartment and you will not have to spend money on repairs for the neighbors below.

Step 1

Step 2

The old screed needs to be tapped with a hammer in order to detect possible cracks and voids in time.

When the primer is completely dry, apply a new cement screed. You can familiarize yourself with the intricacies of this process in the appropriate ones. If the old layer has only cracks and minor unevenness, then it can be brought to perfection with a small amount of self-leveling mixture.

Step 3

The dried screed must be thoroughly dedusted and covered with two layers of Glims primer.

Step 4

Let's start applying coating waterproofing. To do this, we use a special mixture to treat the joints of the walls and floor along the perimeter of the entire room and, after the putty has completely dried, we carefully seal all the joints with rubber waterproofing tape.

Step 5

We treat the entire floor with a coating waterproofing mixture, going onto the walls to approximately a level of 20 cm. The application should be continuous and in three layers. Dry each layer for 24 hours. To work, use a wide brush or roller.

Step 6

Then, when dry last layer waterproofing, cover the floor and walls to a level of 20 cm with Betonokontakt Stenotek KR primer. It has excellent adhesion, since it contains coarse quartz sand.

Step 7

After 24 hours, you need to set the beacons to a height of at least 15 mm and fill them with Vetonit 5000 mixture. Level the solution using the rule, based on the profile of the beacons.

Step 8

After 48 hours, when the self-leveling floor has dried, we again treat the entire area with Glims primer.

After 3 hours, you can begin laying tiles on a perfectly flat and completely waterproofed floor. In addition, if you follow these instructions, the tiles will lie on a fairly solid base of self-leveling flooring and tile adhesive.

Direct laying of tiles

Calculation of the required number of tiles when laying “seam to seam”

You need to measure the floor of the room with a tape measure and calculate the floor area. We divide the result obtained by the area of ​​one tile and add 10% to have some supply of material. So, if the floor area is 6 sq m, and a square floor tile with a side of 30 cm has an area of ​​0.09 sq m, then we will need: 6/0.09 = 66.66 tiles. Round up to 67 and add 6 pieces in reserve. We buy 73 tiles.

Calculation of the required number of tiles when laying diagonally

The calculation will be similar, but with some features. Tiles that will lie around the perimeter of the room will need to be trimmed, so the reserve quantity should be increased to 15%. For the same area of ​​6 sq m, with the area of ​​one tile being 0.09 sq m, we need to buy 77 tiles, since 66.66*15=10.

The amount of adhesive needed depends on the size of the tile. How larger area tiles, the thicker the layer of adhesive will be needed. Most often, when renovating apartments, cement tile adhesive is used. Let's look at examples of glue consumption.

A spatula of the correct size will help reduce consumption.

It is better to check this information, as well as the calculation of the amount of glue you need, on the packaging. This is due to the fact that cement adhesive from different manufacturers has different densities. You can also purchase both ready-to-use glue and a dry mixture. The first option is more convenient, but the second is cheaper. If you are laying tiles on top of a heated floor, you should choose a specialized adhesive for this purpose.

We mark the base and calculate the location of the tiles

To make your floor look perfect, you need to apply markings. Mark the center points of the opposite walls and draw the center lines of the room through them. If you lay tiles diagonally, connect the corners of the room with straight lines. When laying tiles, follow these markings.

Lay the tiles on the floor following the chosen layout plan. If not all the tiles fit entirely, then they will need to be cut. Try to arrange the tiles so that the cut elements are hidden. If there is a central object in the room, then surround it with only whole tiles. At the entrance to the room, only solid elements should also be located.

To cut floor tiles, use a special tile cutter.

Pour clean water into a container specially designated for this purpose and add the dry mixture in the proportions indicated on the package. Mix the solution thoroughly, let it sit for a few minutes and stir again. This approach will achieve maximum homogeneity. We advise you not to mix the entire amount of glue at once, since many solutions dry out quite quickly and become unsuitable for further use. Dissolve the glue in parts - this will allow you to avoid unnecessary costs.

Ready-made mixtures only need to be mixed before use.

Let's start laying the tiles directly

Using a double-sided spatula, apply tile adhesive to the floor. Apply it smooth side spatula, and spread with a notched spatula. The larger and heavier the floor tile, the larger the trowel teeth should be.

Apply glue to no more than 1 square meter of floor at a time. Start laying tiles from the center of the room, focusing on transverse or diagonal lines. To maintain equal spaces between the tiles, use special crosses.

Having aligned the tiles along the line, you need to insert crosses between them, and insert wedges on the wall side to secure them from accidental shifting.

For better adhesion of the tiles to the surface, tap each tile after laying. rubber mallet, you should act from the center of the tile to the edges. Glue the cut tiles only after all the solid elements have been laid.

Constantly checking the quality of installation using a water level will allow you to achieve a perfectly even coating.

Grouting tile joints

When the adhesive solution has dried, you can remove the crosses and begin grouting the joints. Grout mixtures are silicone, epoxy and cement based. Despite different composition The grouts are almost identical in their properties, differing only in the method of preparation and use.

Before starting this stage of work, vacuum the tiles and grout lines.

Choose grout based on the color of the tile. It can match in tone, harmonize with the tiles, or have a contrasting shade. It all depends only on your imagination. Silicone and epoxy grout are sold ready-to-use, while cement grout will need to be diluted according to the instructions on the package.

Glitters - colored sparkles for adding to epoxy and some cement grouts

Using a rubber spatula, apply a little grout to the seam and press it inward. Place the putty knife over the seam and rub it with pressure to remove excess.

After the grout has dried (the exact time is indicated on the packaging), remove masking tape, wash the tiles warm water using a soft sponge and wipe the surface dry with a flannel cloth.

Video - Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands

It is difficult to find such a popular facing material as tile. It is used for finishing the most various rooms. In most cases, laying tiles is carried out in bathrooms, bathrooms, shower stalls, staircase landings and steps.

Advantages of using facing material

The use of tiles is not a tribute to past traditions. Her choice demonstrates the rational approach of the property owner. Despite the availability of many of the latest floor and wall coverings, tiles will never go out of style. Thanks to the unique operational characteristics This facing material is far superior to most modern coatings.

The advantages of using tiles include:

• environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless to human health (made from natural clay);
• resistance to negative impact wet and chemical environment;
• ease of installation;
• easy cleaning from various contaminants;
• excellent practicality;
• long operational period (up to 40 years);
• attractive appearance;
• fire safety;
• excellent antistatic properties;
• the coating does not absorb odors;
• affordable price;
• safety original form throughout the entire service life;
• variety of shapes, sizes and textures (tiles imitating natural stone are especially popular).

Tile production occurs by firing the raw materials from which it is made. Thanks to this, the following are destroyed:

• substances that may cause an allergic reaction;
• all fungi and bacteria.

Perhaps the only disadvantage of tiles is their fragility. It is not very resistant to mechanical damage resulting from impacts with a hard or heavy object.

To lay tiles we will need:

• the facing material itself;
• primer;
• glue;
• grout mixture;
• solution container;
• wooden slats;
• rags;
• flannel fabric;
• level (laser and regular);
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• drill with mixer;
• tile cutter;
• glass cutter;
• marker;
• mites;
• a set of spatulas (toothed and rubber tools are required);
• trowel;
• wooden hammer;
• plastic crosses;
• rule;
• wide knife;
• drywall;
• polypropylene mesh;
• PVA glue;
• staples;
• water;
• soap;
• construction pistol.

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Tile installation technology

At the initial stage, the surface on which the coating will be laid is prepared.

It is cleaned, leveled and dried. The surface is primed.

The prepared floor base is marked. To ensure sufficient access to the walls, skirting boards and door trim. The midpoints are measured on opposite walls. This is necessary to determine the center lines of the room.

The purchased tiles are laid out on the marked surface with your own hands. This is how it is determined whether there will be areas where a whole tile will not fit. If there are such areas, you will have to cut the tiles.

There are the following methods for installing tiles:

• traditional;
• in a checkerboard pattern;
• diagonally;
• herringbone;
• modular grid.

Depending on the installation method, the first row of material will be laid. The first type of installation is used in quite spacious rooms, but they start tiling work from the middle of the wall. When working in smaller rooms, everything starts from the second row. Do diagonal laying cladding is best in spacious and large rooms, however this method the most complex and time-consuming.

When laying diagonally:

• the frieze is marked;
• Whole and cut tiles are laid around the perimeter;
• the frieze is laid.

The even position of the facing material during work is achieved using a level. You should also pay attention to the corners of the tiles. Sometimes you come across tiles that are concave unevenly or may have a protrusion. In this case, in order to prevent floor unevenness, the tiles are placed slightly below the planned level. One requirement is fulfilled unquestioningly - the seams must always coincide in perpendicular directions.

Laying the tiles begins on the wall opposite the entrance to the room. Attached to the bottom of the wall wooden slats, on which the first row of tiles will subsequently rest. Traditional technology Installation of tiles (joint to joint) requires compliance with the coincidence of vertical and horizontal seams. To check the vertical deviation, you must use a plumb line and level.

A very important stage is preparing the solution for high-quality adhesion of the tiles to the wall. Preparation glue mixture carried out in any suitable container, in which sequentially:

• water is poured;
• dry adhesive mixture is poured;
• The solution is thoroughly mixed.

After a few minutes, the prepared solution is mixed again and infused until smooth for 1-2 minutes.

The next step is to apply glue to the base under the tiles. Working with heavy (floor) facing material done using a notched trowel. The glue is applied to the base of the floor with the smooth side and spread over the surface with the serrated side of the tool. Required thickness The glue layer should be slightly higher than the height of the spatula teeth.

Having placed the tile on the floor or the first row of the wall, it should be pressed very tightly with your hands over the entire surface. For greater effect, the tiles are tapped wooden hammer. To obtain identical width and distance between tile seams, plastic cross separators are used. Having placed the tile on the glue, you need to tap and punch it with a mallet along the entire width and length of the tile, at the same time clearing it of any glue residue.

The crosses are removed 1-2 hours after laying the tiles. The next day, you can seal the seams between the tiles. This work is carried out using a special grout. Using a rubber spatula, apply the grout solution to the joints between the tiles, rubbing all the gaps, cracks and holes.

After sealing the seams, you should wait about an hour. The grout should harden. The tiles are washed with a sponge or cloth soaked in warm water. It is imperative to wash off the grout and excess glue residues in a timely manner, since the top (glazed) layer of the tile is damaged very easily. The created tiled surface is polished with flannel cloth.

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Cutting tiles

In some cases, it is not possible to lay the entire tile. We have to resort to cutting it. Before carrying out this process, the tiles are soaked in clean water for approximately 2-3 hours. Wall tiles should be cut using the most with a simple glass cutter, and thicker flooring- tile cutter.

When cutting the material with a glass cutter, the cut line is drawn further than 10 mm from the edge of the tile. The glass cutter must be used after marking the cut line, pressing evenly on the tile and leaving a noticeable and clear mark. After this, the tile is placed on the edge of a solid object. Pressure is applied to the area that needs to be cut off. The tile will break exactly along the cut of the glass cutter.

It's even easier to work with a tile cutter. The main thing is that the wheel of the device does not move from side to side - this will lead to crooked cuts. The tiles are marked with a marker and placed in the base of the tile cutter. Next, the following actions are carried out:

• The tile cutter wheel is aligned with the drawn line:
• the handle of the device rises;
• the wheel touches the line on the tile;
• a movement of the handle towards you is made;
• Only one pass with the wheel is carried out.

The remaining excess pieces of tile are removed using pliers. The tiles are cut only once, after which they become fragile and of poor quality. If it is necessary to create a hole in the tile, remove it in its place. glossy surface. And then the hole is drilled with a drill.