Any suspended ceiling, and the tensioner is no exception; after installation is completed, it needs decorative finishing along the perimeter. There is a gap where the ceiling meets the wall. For different suspended structures We apply our preferred options on how to close this gap and give the structure a completed look. Stretch ceiling– the system is universal, since it can use both special plinth, and traditional decorative profile under any ceiling.

Therefore, there are two options for how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall: use a special plinth (quick installation) or spend time and effort creating an exquisite finish.

Using stubs

A special plinth for installation on a suspended ceiling is practical option. It will hide the gap between the two surfaces, but the frame itself will not stand out. This option is characterized by simplicity and laconic finishing. Externally, the ceiling will simply fit snugly against the wall.

Important! If the customer does not receive any wishes regarding the design of the perimeter, then the craftsmen themselves offer to install such a plinth on the suspended ceiling.

If the stretch ceiling is single-level, and it was installed in a room in ordinary apartment, then use either an F-shaped plinth or an L-shaped one. The latter is also called the wall corner.

In large rooms, a dividing profile with a separating plug is also used. This plinth differs from others in that it has a symmetrical profile: two locks and two shelves that cover the panel on both sides of the joint.

The L-shaped plinth has one edge with hooks, which is inserted into the load-bearing profile of the trim. It is made from soft types of plastic, so it is flexible and allows you to make a joint along a curved line.

F-shaped baseboards are rigid and are installed on flat surfaces, mainly tile or drywall. Due to its rigidity, it holds a straight line well, which is important for the overall impression of neat framing.

To install such a plinth, the owner will need a few minutes. Using the fastening rib, the corner is inserted into the profile and pushed through with pressure. To do this, use a blunt spatula.

In addition to quick installation, such a plinth has a number of advantages:

• Repeated dismantling without damaging the baseboard itself and finishing materials. If you need to remove the canvas, the plinth is easily removed from the groove and inserted back.
• A soft L-shaped plinth will hide the joint in curved structures.
• Of all the options, this is the cheapest material.
• A laconic design may be the most harmonious solution for an interior in a minimalist style, where curly decorative details are not welcome.

An equally colorful assortment of decorative plugs is produced for a wide range of fabric and film materials. This is done not from an excess of imagination, but because it is advisable to select a plug of the same color for any canvas. The fact is that over a long span the decorative tape gives a wave, no matter how hard the master tries to even it out. A plinth of the same tone will only mark the smooth edge of the ceiling, and the wave will not be noticeable.

It is important to choose the right baseboard for the installed load-bearing molding. There are plugs that are used only for baguettes of the harpoon system; in others, the fastening ribs are designed for the baguette of the wedge installation technology. There is a difference between plugs for aluminum and plastic baguettes. Therefore, returning to the previous recommendation, rely on a master installer. If you have to buy masking tape yourself, take a piece of it with you. load-bearing profile to select the appropriate skirting board in the store.

Video of how the decorative plug is fixed:

The quality of wall finishing plays an important role when choosing a baguette for a suspended ceiling. If they are uneven, then it is better to abandon the standard masking tape and use a wide baseboard made of polyurethane or foam.

Decorative baguettes

Decorative plinth is chosen by those owners for whom the stretched canvas does not yet mean the end of the work on decorating the ceiling space. In this case, the plinth not only hides the joint, but also performs an important decorative function. Although it can be installed flush against the ceiling, more often it is mounted at a lower level. A stretch ceiling looks much more impressive with lighting, and lamps are installed in this niche.

Of all the variety of forms, a smooth extruded type plinth will be a win-win. The smooth baguette harmoniously combines with the glossy surface of the film in any setting. Imitation skirting board decorative stucco molding requires a balanced approach, taking into account the style of the rest of the interior.

Under stretch fabric use any baguettes made of polyurethane or polystyrene, but with some installation features. Since the plinth cannot be glued to film or fabric, it is only attached to one side to a vertical surface. Hence some nuances regarding the selection and installation of decorative moldings:

• If the perimeter of the room is even, then it is better to use a lightweight foam baseboard. It is glued to acrylic liquid nails or regular finishing putty.
• For structures with curved lines, polyurethane is used because it bends well. But this material is heavy, so Special attention pay attention to preparing the base surface and the right choice glue for installation.
• To ensure that the baguette is held firmly, choose a profile with a vertically elongated cross-section and a wide mounting flange.
• The wallpaper is glued after installing the baguette, carefully trimming it using a wide spatula.
• When installed close to the film, a small gap is still left so that the film does not clap against the baseboard during vibration.

The disadvantages associated with the complexity of installation are obvious:

• Even in a rectangular room with an even perimeter, you will need to trim the baguette in four corners, and not everyone can do this neatly. Even experienced craftsmen use a miter box for this.

• You will have to deal with putty or acrylic adhesives. To make the plinth monolithic, the joints in the corners and cracks are sealed.
• The plinth is painted several times. If the first layer is not difficult to complete, then when finishing painting the glued baguette you need to try not to stain the canvas.

Important! You won't be able to remove the baseboard without damaging it. If it is necessary to dismantle the canvas, the baguette is torn off and after installing the film in place, a new one is purchased.

If desired, you can install plaster stucco. In this case we're talking about about creating an entire cornice-type composition using elements of pilasters, curly moldings, and columns. Such decorations decorate complex multi-level structures, with a combined finish.

Wooden skirting boards are installed only in rooms decorated with wood, where other materials are inappropriate.

Decorative braid

IN Lately appeared new way designing the outline of the ceiling using a decorative cord. This element will not only hide the joint between the vertical and horizontal plane, will clearly separate the canvas and vertical surface, but will also become a bright detail that requires a special style in the rest of the interior.

The texture of the braid can be woven or twisted. It is installed in the same way as plastic skirting board: pressed into the profile groove. But at the same time, you need to control the straightness of the edging, so on straight sections they use a long rule, and on curved sections they rely on eye and patience.

There are the following types of decorative cord for installation in a suspended ceiling:

• Cord with woven core. For elasticity, rubber veins are woven into the threads. Due to this, when pressed unevenly, the cord tends to straighten, thereby helping the craftsman obtain a straight edge.
• With metal amplifier. Allows you to get a smooth bend on bent lines.
• A cord with a single-color braid or with multi-colored threads.

As a rule, the interior always contains garlands and picturesque ornaments inherent in the classic, empire, and baroque styles.

As a rule, the floor in an apartment is different rooms finished in different qualities and physical properties materials. The most common choices are porcelain stoneware and laminate. In this case, of course, floor transition areas inevitably appear - the joints of tiles and laminate.

You can join tiles to laminate in one of the following ways:
Flexible profile made of aluminum or PVC;
H-shaped profile made of aluminum or brass;
Flat aluminum sill.
Docking with a flexible profile

Before installing the joint between the tiles and the laminate with a flexible profile, it is necessary to evaluate the degree of load specifically on this section of the floor. For example, if the transition is located in the area between the hallway and the adjacent room, then the load on the threshold will be high. Therefore, it is optimal to mount a flexible aluminum profile in this area. In this case, it is better to design the transitions between the bathroom and the corridor with a flexible PVC profile. In this area constantly high humidity and the transition from aluminum may begin to oxidize and deteriorate prematurely.

The flexible connecting profile consists of two parts: a fixed base in the shape of the letter “P” and an upper decorative cover in the shape of the letter “T”. Installation of the transition using this method must be planned in advance. That is, when tiling and laying laminate, a seam of at least 20 mm is left between the materials, since standard width The U-shaped base is 14 mm. The remaining 3 mm along the edge of each vertical shelf of the base serves as a damping gap.
Initially, an accurate measurement of the future floor connection is made. If the transition between different materials has not an even, but, for example, a curved trajectory, then its measurement is carried out using a regular thread. The thread is laid out along a curved path, after which the thread is pulled and its length is measured with a tape measure. Next, a piece of the required size is cut from the flexible profile using a small grinder. Installation of the connection begins by gluing the back side of the U-shaped profile with self-adhesive damper tape.
After pasting, holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled in the U-shaped base in increments of 10-15 cm. Next, the base is laid exactly at the place where it is attached and marks are made on the surface of the screed using a pencil through the holes. Subsequently, according to the markings made, they are drilled into concrete screed to a depth of 5-8 cm using an impact drill with a Pobedit drill bit in the chuck. Next, the U-shaped base is mounted to the screed using anchor expansion dowels. After this, a T-shaped decorative profile is inserted manually with slight pressure into the U-shaped base from above.

Advantage this method: The transition may wear out over time, but no repairs will be required to repair it. installation work. It is enough to manually remove the worn decorative plug and install a new cover in its place at the base.
Disadvantage of this method: if a heated floor made from electric thermomats is installed in the transition area, then you cannot drill into the screed.

Docking with an H-shaped aluminum profile

This type of transition is characterized by the fact that at the end of the work there will be a joint between tiles and laminate without a threshold, or the threshold will be completely insignificant, only 1.5-2 mm high. The H-shaped profile is installed at the stage of laying porcelain stoneware on the floor. Having laid the last row of porcelain stoneware on the glue and leveled it, the lower shelf of the H-shaped profile is placed in the layer of glue. At the same time, its upper shelf is 10 mm on the surface of the floor tiles.

If the moment was missed when tiling the floor, then in order to mount the H-shaped connecting junction, it is necessary to clean out the glue under the edge of the tile with a knife to a depth of 25-30 mm. Next, all dust is removed from the resulting seam with a vacuum cleaner and a uniform layer is applied to the surface of the seam with a construction gun. liquid nails. Next, an aluminum transition is cut to size and inserted under the tile directly through a layer of liquid nails.
The opposite bottom shelf is attached to the screed either using liquid nails or expansion screws. When the liquid nails have dried well, lay the laminate so that it extends between the horizontal flanges of the profile at a distance of at least 10 mm.

The advantage of this method: it is possible to make a joint between laminate and tiles with virtually no threshold.
Disadvantage of this method: for reliability of installation, it is still better to install the H-shaped transition simultaneously with laying the last row of tiles.

Joint of tiles and laminate with aluminum threshold

It must be said right away that we are talking about a flat or slightly curved threshold made of aluminum with hidden fastening. This should not be confused with an open-mounted threshold, which is mainly installed outside the apartment on open surfaces or tiled steps.
By design, the aluminum threshold with hidden fastening is a flat or slightly curved profile, on the lower side of which small shelves are located at an angle to each other. To cover the joint between the laminate and the tiles with such a decorative threshold, you must initially cut it strictly to the measured size. Next, you need to select anchor screws in such a way that when placing the screw in the groove, its head is held between the lower shelves.

If such screws are not available, then they are made independently. To do this, take long self-tapping screws, shorten their length and grind the head in a circle so that the self-tapping screw can be run between the shelves.
On next stage At the place where the threshold is installed, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the screed. The pitch between the holes should be no more than 15-20 cm. drilled holes Empty PVC spacer tubes from anchors become clogged. Next, the threshold is launched into the lower groove required amount self-tapping screws Each self-tapping screw is lightly inserted by hand into a PVC spacer tube. At this stage, the threshold and embedded screws should be positioned perfectly evenly without distortion.
A dry floor rag is placed on top of the decorative threshold in several layers, after which it is placed on the rag wooden block. Next, with careful and even blows of the hammer on the block, the entire sill is settled, while the self-tapping screws enter the spacer tubes and ensure proper installation. To make it easier to imagine this procedure, look at the photo instructions for sealing the joint between laminate and laminate - everything is identical.
The advantages of this method: sometimes they remember about the threshold very late and, for example, the gap between the tiles and the laminate is completely absent or amounts to a couple of mm, in this case a curved threshold is used.
Disadvantages of this method: only coatings laid on the same level can be joined in this way, since it is technically impossible to make a joint that will cover the tiles and laminate at different levels.

Every home craftsman who has started tiling for the first time knows how to join tiles in corners. And only with experience comes the understanding that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years comes true mastery, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but many more ways to design both the outer and inner corners. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

First thing's first - layout!

And the cladding of any room begins with the layout, since in standard apartments Not only do there not exist perfectly right angles, but there are also no perfectly straight walls. The tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls and floors, and inspects the corners to choose a design method for each. It depends on which method of joining tiles in the outer and inner corners is chosen:

• choosing a tool to perform the work;
• the amount of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
• actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, for a bathroom - this is the wall located opposite front door. It is laid out first, and only then the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start tiling from the corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that cracks will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, sometimes several centimeters wide, which will have to be laid out with tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the work of the master. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:

How to join tiles in inner corners

There are very few options for decorating an internal corner. You can do this in the following ways:

• using an overhead angle (trim)
• design of a regular seam without additional details.

Making a corner using a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice craftsmen. With experience comes the understanding that a plastic part, which rarely matches perfectly in color, rather reduces the cost than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall covering. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the housewife - because they quickly become dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to maintain.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Joining the tiles yourself in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, a corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which will further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method also has disadvantages. This is the professionalism of a master like necessary condition and a high probability of cracking along the seam due to the natural tendency of the tiles to both contract and expand. This problem especially often occurs when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls that's great rarity.

To prevent the formation of cracks, use:

• correct calculation of seam width;
• use of sanitary silicone in vertical internal corners.

Important! Decor internal corner without using an overhead corner and without finishing the seam is unacceptable! The result of this installation will be a black gap at the junction. To correct appearance It will be possible only with silicone. But it’s unlikely to be able to match it exactly to the grout.

How to join tiles in outer corners

There are many more ways to design an external corner. This:

• use of trims and ;
• technology for cutting tile ends at an angle of 45°;
• easy installation one row of tiles on the edge of another;
• forming a corner using grout.

Method 1. Using a trim corner to lay out external corners

Today stores offer a wide range corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries trims are used everywhere, due to the ease of the method of decorating corners. In Russia, the mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

• the desire to be different from everyone else;
• the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding split the room, visually making it even smaller;
• the fragility of plastic trims and their high tendency to become dirty;
• high cost metal corners;
• the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of cladding external corners.

Installation of trim corner

Installation decorative corner This is done after one wall in the room has been completely lined. Then along the entire height of the corner using mounting gun applied silicone sealant. The flat side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjacent wall. Subsequently, the tiles are laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after finishing the work, the seams between the tiles and the trim are rubbed down. Installation is performed in the same way decorative element and in horizontal corners.

Method 2. Cutting the edge of the tile at an angle of 45°

If the question “How to connect tiles in the outer corners?” the master replies: “Of course, at an angle of 45°!” - in front of you is a real professional. Simply because this method is too difficult for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movement and a lot of time. In addition, it is impossible to do without good tool, namely angular grinder. It works using a diamond disc. If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a tile cutter with a rotating frame.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. You just have to hit the edge of the masonry well, and with a high probability the tile will break off. However, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other method of designing a corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly together and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3: Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for beginners, because there is nothing complicated about it. At first facing material one wall is completely laid out, then another, the outer tiles of which simply overlap the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this installation method is chosen for laying tiles with relief, because in most cases it is chosen, succumbing to the opinion that seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is true, just like the fact that the relief one is very difficult to join beautifully in the corners.

Another variation of the laying method is staggered: in the first row, tiles of one wall are placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when tiling rooms. The result is a deliberately careless masonry, most appropriate in country or loft style interiors.

Method 4: Forming a corner using grout

Its essence: laying tiles without trimming and without protrusion on the outer corner. The resulting gap is shaped into a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that this technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and customers. Although it solves a common problem: eliminating fragility external corner and prevent seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls. Therefore, any master tiler should know how to close the joints in the corners with grout.

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How to join tiles in corners

Does not require special skills. Laminate boards are an inexpensive and reliable coating that fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing laminate flooring is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel it swells and becomes deformed. Required condition when installing laminate boards, this is sealing the joints. In this case, it is important how to close the laminate joints.

Sealant for processing

A sealant is a special gel that is used to seal seams, gaps and joints. In this case, there is no gluing of the joints, which is a big plus when you need to replace the panel.

It is best to choose a sealant that contains silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

• reliability;
• long service life;
• the ability to use a sealant at any temperature.

In addition to silicone, the sealed gel includes the following components:

• additives: quartz flour, chalk;
• antifungal substances;
• dyes;
• and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question is about how to seal the joints flooring from laminate boards has been decided, now you need to prepare the tools and materials for processing them.

Tools and materials

Before using the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential premises, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

1. Silicone based sealant.
2. Rubber hammer.
3. Ruler, pencil.
4. Jigsaw.
5. Latch.
6. Spacer wedges.

Before you begin laying laminate flooring, you must carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

1. The base for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3-5 mm per meter. Otherwise, lock joints panels will quickly become loose and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for dismantling and installing the laminate.
2. If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. Smooth surface The base will allow you to correctly lay out the underlay under the laminate in order to protect the floor covering from moisture.
3. The first row of panels must be laid with a deformation gap of 8 mm. This gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that when the temperature environment in the apartment (room) changes, the laminate “breathes” and moisture does not accumulate under it.
4. When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a sealant. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After finishing laying the laminate, everything locking connections will be sealed.
5. The gaps that remain in doorway, can be decorated with elements such as baseboards or thresholds. How to coat the joints between the laminate and the baseboard? You can use the same silicone-based sealing gel.
6. If the laminate board is joined:

• with linoleum - cover the seams with a plastic threshold;
• with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
• with a stone surface - it is advisable to close the joints with cork plates.

1. Silicone-based sealant does not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
2. If expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use sealant. The joints of this laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
3. If a heated floor system is installed in the living room, then adhesive laminate cannot be used. Since this covering is not removable, and if the floor heating system breaks down, you will have to remove the entire laminate. This means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for purchasing new laminate panels.
4. Laminate flooring must be laid along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along a natural light source. Otherwise, the falling shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then installation should begin from large window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to install plinths with different types of fastening:

This video is about installing a flexible profile: