Classic swing gates can have symmetrical or asymmetrical leaves, as well as an additional entrance gate. Regardless of the type of design, their production is carried out according to the same principle.

Installation of supports

When the soil heaves in winter, the load on the gate support posts can reach up to 10 tons per 1 square meter. m. In addition, they also experience a significant dynamic load of several hundred kilograms during their opening and closing. Therefore, to increase the service life of such a structure, reliable support is required, deepened into the ground to a sufficient depth.

The procedure for installing gate posts:
1. As supporting structures pipes or profiles of 2.5 mm with a diameter of 60 mm and above can be used. The use of a corner is not recommended: it is not capable of providing the structure with the necessary rigidity. For crossbars, the profile can be slightly narrower: up to 30 mm.

Advice. A frame that is too massive will create too much load on the supporting pillars, so when choosing a thick-walled profile, they are strengthened accordingly.

Support pillars

1. To install them, a pit is prepared to the depth of soil freezing (and its depth cannot be less than 1 m). For example, in the Moscow region it will be equal to 1.4 m. You can dig a pit using earth drill or manually. In this case, its diameter must be at least twice the cross-section of the pipe.

Pit for pouring support pillars

2. Before pouring concrete, a sand-crushed stone pillow 20 cm high.
3. The pillars are fixed in the pit, leveled using a level and filled with sand-cement mixture. The installation of the gate is carried out no less than a week after it has completely set.

Advice. To prevent concrete from cracking, the ground around it should be spilled with water and compacted before pouring. To prevent premature drying, the top of the foundation should be covered with film and periodically moistened with water.

The main stages of manufacturing gate leaves

2. Metallic profile cut to specified sizes.
3. From each edge of the strip, lines are drawn at an angle of 45° using a square, and then a cut is made along them using a grinder. To improve the strength of welds, the cut points are carefully cleaned to bare metal.

Marking profile joints

4. The profiles of the collar are laid out on flat surface and fit tightly at the corners. To secure the structure you can use corner clamps(with clamps for fixation). To ensure that the collar does not “lead”, you should check before welding square correct placement of profiles inside the structure and then outside. The horizontalness of the surface is verified using level.

Checking horizontal and angles

5. Using a tape measure The height and width of the collar are also controlled. In case of an error, the correctness of cutting the corners and the location of each of the parts is checked.

Advice. If the channel or profile is slightly bent, it can be leveled with a hammer after preheating the metal over a gas burner.

Checking the height and width of the structure

6. After adjusting all the nodes, the seams in the corners are first tacked and then welded with a continuous seam. All welding points are cleaned with a grinder with a flap attachment. In the future, before painting, small cavities (voids) formed at the seams can be treated with automotive putty.
7. Next they dock transverse crossbars at an angle of 90°. To prevent the gates from “twisting”, in addition to the transverse ones, at least one door must be installed in them to increase rigidity. diagonal jumper. The angle of its connection with the profile of the gate can only be determined experimentally: it depends only on the design of the gate.

Crossbars running across the collar and diagonally

8. To hang the gate, one of the sides must be reinforced with a small piece of metal angle.

Reinforcement of metal strip for welding hinges

Welding gate hinges

The simplest device is a pin on which a cap is placed. To weld the hinges, the collar should be aligned in the same plane with the post with a gap not less than 5 mm. 20 or 25 cm are removed from the top and bottom of the collar and a mark is made with a pencil or chalk. Then the lower part of the hinge is welded to the frame (gate leaf), and the lower part is welded to the base.

Tack loops

Usually the hinges are welded through plates (ears): Small strips of metal are attached to both parts of the hinge, and then these plates are welded to the gate and frame. This method allows you to weld both the hinge and the plate on both sides, and then attach it to the top, side and bottom using three seams.

To ensure that the hinges do not sinter together during welding, all moving parts should be thoroughly coated with grease before starting work. The welding seam is laid from bottom to top.

Since the supports will always shift at the slightest movement of the ground, it is also necessary to leave a small gap of several millimeters between the doors.

Frame covering

The gate covering can be of any kind: wooden, made of corrugated sheets or metal sheets, etc. It is attached to the gate using self-tapping screws. If you plan to weld sheet iron, you should choose a more even cold-rolled metal.

Wood paneling

Below are several drawings of swing gates, from which you can choose the most suitable ones. You can develop your own scheme yourself. Optimal width the gate for entry of both cars and trucks is 3 m, height is from 2 m and above. To save materials, you can combine the gate with a wicket entrance.

Important! When creating your own drawing, you should take into account the gaps of several millimeters between the doors and posts, as well as between the gate and the ground.

If further automation of swing gates is planned, it should be noted that it should be installed only after the shutter travel has been perfectly adjusted. If you have to put in some effort when opening them, the reasons are identified and eliminated.

Scheme 1

Scheme 2

Scheme 3

Scheme 4

Scheme 5

Scheme 6

As you know, almost everyone country cottage area has fences (fence, wall around) which are simply necessary for safe and comfortable living. Each of the fences (depending on needs) must have an entrance in the form of a gate or an entrance, to ensure which a variety of gates are installed.

Gates for a dacha, unlike a regular door entrance, can vary in:

1. Material of manufacture.

Usually metals or wood are used to make them.

Metal gates

1. Overall dimensions.

To clearly understand the principles of gate installation, you need to decide on their type. According to the standard, gates are made in size 2 m 60 cm. If necessary, the width of the entrance can be increased to 3 m 50 cm.

1. Opening method:

• Hinged (open like shutters in a house).
• Sliding - do not require space (they slide to the side along the fence). The perfect solution, if the dacha plot is small.
• Lifting - entry is carried out by manually or mechanically lifting the gate up.
• Gates for a summer residence with a wicket (have an additional doorway).

Each type has some features, for example, lifting and sliding gates do not require much space to open (this is very convenient in winter, when snow can interfere with the normal movement of the gate). In this regard, swing gates are quite impractical.

This type is very easy to install. Of course, like any gate, it has some disadvantages, for example, when used in winter period snow will have to be cleared away before opening. On the other hand, if you are planning to install the gate yourself, this is the best option.

This is the most ancient look gate and has not changed at all since then. This design is used everywhere, especially in the private sector. Its advantage over other types is the absence of a foundation required when building sliding gates and load-bearing beams, used when performing the lifting option.

The swing version consists of two iron or wooden doors, of arbitrary dimensions, suspended on poles or a brick support, with regular hinges big size. They open, depending on the design of the hinges, inward or outward. But most often, there are options with swinging in both directions (outward and inward).

As mentioned above, the choice of material is small (wood, metal) and depends on the owner or customer. For example, from metals, steel or corrugated sheets are most often purchased. Wooden doors can be made of any species, but larch is best, because it is least susceptible to rotting.

Hinged doors are available in two versions:

1. Blind - the opening is completely closed.

Continuous lining (with the selected material) is carried out after the frame is completed. For example, they are stitched with galvanized iron or corrugated sheets of at least 0.7 mm.

1. Transparent - the stitching is not continuous.

From round or profile rectangular pipes a frame with stiffening ribs is made. Sewing is carried out according to design solution, pre-approved by the customer. It can be in the form of a picture or simply made in the form of verticals.

Installation, for example, metal version is quite simple and includes several sequential operations:

1. First you need to prepare the frame (frame). It should include two vertical and three horizontal profiles.

To do this, rolled metal (pipes, profiles, angles) are cut (according to a prepared drawing) with a grinder. The dimensions of the rental depend on the dimensions of the gate. For example, when assembling a 3x2 m frame, corners or a profile 40x40-60x60 mm are suitable

1. Then the profiles are connected welding machine or bolts.

The profiles must be securely fixed to avoid frame defects; for greater strength, iron triangles that are welded in the corners or braces (metal beams) that are welded diagonally to the gate can be used.

1. The final stage is sheathing.

Connections are made using welding, screws or bolts. For convenience, sheathe in one direction, for example, to the right if you are right-handed, and in the opposite direction if you are left-handed. If you used corrugated sheeting, screw the screws into the recesses.

After all the work is completed, the hinges are welded. All weld joints are cleaned and painted.

Drawing of swing metal gates

Frame wooden gates simply assembled with nails or screws. Cover it with whatever you like, and screw the hinges in at the end. Braces are also required in this case.

Support pillars can be mounted from bricks, logs or pipes (metal). Post holes are dug approximately 1.8 m deep and 30-50 cm wide. They are filled with 20-30 cm of sand and crushed stone

Pillars made of logs or pipes are inserted into the hole, fixed and filled with concrete so that the solution is level with the ground.

The main criterion that must be adhered to is to concrete the supports at a depth of at least 100 cm (this is the amount of soil freezing; overcoming this threshold, you guarantee the necessary strength and durability of the future gate.

Preparation cement mortar will not be difficult (mix 2 buckets of sand, 3 buckets of crushed stone, and 10 kg of cement, adding water until the required consistency is achieved).

Sliding gates are installed if you are not satisfied with conventional swing gates, or to save space. After all, they resemble a coupe (its doors). Rolling along a wall, fence, room, hangar, they practically do not go beyond its dimensions.

Such gates are very popular, but expensive pleasure. If we compare them with other systems, installing sliding gates with your own hands always requires certain skills and some preparation. The person who carries out the installation must have relevant experience.

Sliding gates

The general frame of such gates is also made from profiles and is distinguished by the presence of a guide welded to the lower profile. The guide is needed to move along the rollers, which are welded to the channel and pillars (rollers are welded to the pillars to support the gate).

In addition, special catching elements are also attached to the pillars, which are necessary to reduce the force of collision when opening and closing the gate.

Sliding gate diagram

They can be opened (rolled back) by hand, but if you want to automate the gate, then use an electric motor to control it. Additionally, install a movement mechanism (rack with teeth or chain drive).

Installation of rollback systems cannot be completed without purchasing a ready-made installation package, including:

• load-bearing beam (U-shaped);
• plugs;
• 2 main videos;
• end roller;
• trolleys;
• catchers;
• limiters.

You can purchase large, medium or small packages yourself to install sliding gates.
Sets of components (installation packages) are selected based on the weight and dimensions of the cantilever-type structure.

Installation package and location of components

Two roller supports are mounted on a previously prepared channel blank. The U-shaped carrier is welded (screwed) to the bottom of the frame so that there are roller carts inside it. This will ensure long-term operation and minimal contamination of the mechanism.

Roller supports are secured to the foundation with bolts or plates. This will allow them to move freely while supporting the weight of the gate

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding gates is done as follows:

1. We dig a trench 1.7-3 m deep and 40–50 cm wide under the foundation. The length of our concrete foundation should be 1/2 the width of the passage.
2. Next we make a frame from reinforcement. We take reinforcement with caliber d12, channel No. 18 and weld the parts. The length of the channel is also equal to 1/2 the width of the opening. Reinforcement bars must lie below the soil freezing level.
3. We fill the bottom of the trench for the base of the gate with sand and compact it.
4. Next, we lower the welded frame into the ditch and set the horizontal position to a building level. Using two bars located at the ends of the channel, we check its parallelism to the rollback line.
5. After that we fill our trench concrete mixture based on:

• cement - 5 bags;
• crushed stone - 0.3 cubic meters;
• sand - 0.5 cubic meters.

Installation of sliding gates

After 5–7 days the base will set completely and become strong.

If you want to control the gate using automation, you must carefully lay the cables in plastic (possibly from the sewer) or metal tubes.

After 5-10 days have passed after the foundation has been completed, installation of the rollback system begins. The instructions suggest dividing the assembly process into stages:

1. Preparatory.

• along the opening at a height of 20 cm from the road we stretch a string to set the position of the carrier.
• We insert the roller supports (checking the instructions) into the beam and move them (simply roll them) to the center of the gate.
• We insert roller trolleys into the U-shaped carrier and secure it to the sash.
• We place the assembled structure on a channel blank.
• We place both roller supports according to the markings.
• We align the gate so that it is parallel to our cord in the opening.
• we strengthen the roller carts onto the laid channel.
• We weld an adjustment pad to the channel for the second roller support.
• We roll the structure to the end to check the horizontal position of the supports and the sash.
• then we just weld the platform (adjustment) of the first support.
• then we remove everything and weld the platforms of the remaining supports to the embedded channel.
• Again we strengthen all the supports and close the gate leaf.
• close the gate for precise horizontal adjustment load-bearing element. Do it wrench simply raising/lowering the roller platforms.

1. Freewheel installation

Adjustment is achieved correct location roller carts.

Freewheel installation

Take the appropriate wrench and loosen the nuts securing the adjusting pads and roller supports. We close/open the gate several times to install the roller supports in the desired position. When easy and free movement is achieved, only the nuts at the top need to be tightened.

Next, install the plugs and the roller at the end. It is mounted on the front side of the gate in the U-shaped guide itself. We secure it with bolts and proceed to install the plug, which is supplied in the installation package of the sliding mechanism. It is strengthened from the back. The plug is provided to protect the rollers from rust and jamming due to bad weather.

Then we mount the upper bracket. First, loosen its rollers a little and place this element so that the rollers are flush with the top edge, and the bracket itself is turned towards support pillar place of fastening. Then we press the part and fix it.

Ready sliding gates

1. After this, we begin trimming the gate. We cut the sheets of prepared material:

• iron;
• steel;
• stainless steel;
• corrugated sheeting;
• other.

sheathing begins from the front of the gate, securing the material with screws, rivets, and iron strips.

After this, we install the upper and lower catchers to relieve the load on the mechanism and prevent the gate from swinging.

Lifting gates for cottages save sufficient quantity places, but their installation is not carried out without the help of specialists. The gate has an electric mechanism for lifting and devices with which it is carried out (ropes, slats, gears).

Such gates are difficult to open by hand due to heavy weight. Therefore, they are not suitable for summer cottages, to which electricity is not supplied, as they require a constant power supply.

There are three types of such gates:

1. Louvre type.
2. Lifting rotary.
3. Rising vertically.

Up and over gates

The easiest to manufacture is the third option. It represents two pillars with guides along which gates with rollers slide. If you use an electric motor with a rack and pinion mechanism, installing it vertically, you can automate the process.

One of the options for overhead gates.

It is difficult to make blinds yourself, so you need to buy them. This is the most expensive of all options. Instructions for self-installation voiced on video. Therefore, you can try installing them yourself.

In principle, any of the gates, except louvered ones, can be made with a wicket; you only need the wicket itself and several additional profiles.

There are two types of gate installation:

The gate on the sash is done like this:

First, we choose which half of the gate will have a gate, then we mount 4 profiles (vertically). Two profiles will mark the limits of the frame (those that are further from the gate are external) and two in the future will form an opening for the gate (internal).

Separate gate

To increase strength, braces are welded (in the corners, to the external posts). In addition, a middle profile (horizontally) is mounted, defining the internal opening of the gate. Afterwards, the profiles are drawn taking into account the additional 2 cm of the opening diagonally. 2 cm is the accepted tolerance for possible metal expansion or deformation. Finishing work are produced similarly to swing gates.

It is completely logical that the gates are installed after construction and require pre-installation support pillars.

Preparation

Before starting work, in order to carry it out efficiently, we will need appropriate tool, namely:

• welding machine (for fastening profiles, the power of the device must be at least 1000A);
• grinder (for cutting workpieces and general processing metal);
• dye;
• hammer;
• building level;
• roulette.

Tools are your faithful assistants

In addition to the tools, you need to prepare raw material– profile pipes ( perfect option pipe with dimensions 60x40x2.5). Quantity required material, including metal, is calculated in estimates or found out when drawing up drawings or diagrams.

When constructing sliding gates for a summer residence, for their further normal operation you additionally need:

• rollers (including end rollers);
• beams;
• catching mechanisms.

Mounting package for assembly

All these elements form a console, without which it is simply impossible to make sliding gates.

Before installing a garden gate, you need to decide on the dimensions ( standard parameters- length Width Height). If the gate is used for the passage of vehicles, then 2.6 m will be quite sufficient for a normal passenger car(for a truck – 3.5 m). Remember, if you have swing gates, increasing their size will increase the space required to open and close them.

After preparing all the materials and tools, they begin to pour the foundation.

Foundation

When installing sliding gates for a summer cottage, it is also necessary to organize the foundation. We will dig a trench in advance (about 1.5 meters deep and 40 cm wide). We will place a channel there with welded pieces of reinforcement and fill it with concrete level with the ground, as indicated in the paragraph on sliding gates.

The channel is installed using building level to avoid distortions. It takes 7 days for the concrete to harden so that work can continue.

Foundation diagram for sliding gates

How to make a frame

From the very beginning, using any available tools (grinders, metal brushes), clean the pipes, and then paint them. For making frames various types gates, including sliding ones, use pipes of different sections (60x40 or 50x50). The outer frame is made from pipes, and then the inner frame is welded into it. Next, the structure is sheathed with wood, metal or corrugated board.

If you are installing sliding gates for your dacha with your own hands, you will also need to align the rollers on the channel, then put the guide on top (set it level) and weld special carts with the rollers to the channel itself. Then the support rollers, which were mentioned earlier, are welded, and the final stage is to paint the entire frame to give it anti-corrosion properties and an aesthetic design.

The gate is usually made of the same material as the fence. Depending on the owner's needs, wooden gate varnished or painted.

The most common option is to make a gate from a picket fence

Picket fence gate

For normal use of the structure, determine in advance the distance between the gate supports; this will determine the size of the door itself and the width of the passage. Support posts can be made of concrete, brick, metal or wood. After concreting the supports and drying the solution, hinges are attached to the supports and the door is hung so that there is a gap of 5-10 mm at the bottom. Try the gate on the supports before they are concreted, measure the distance required for normal opening/closing, and only then install

Photo of the gate at the dacha

As you know, almost every summer cottage has fences (fence, wall around) that are simply necessary for safe and comfortable living. Each of the fences (depending on needs) must have an entrance in the form of a gate or an entrance, to ensure which a variety of gates are installed.

Gates for a dacha, unlike a regular door entrance, can vary in:

1. Material of manufacture.

Usually metals or wood are used to make them.

Metal gates

1. Overall dimensions.

To clearly understand the principles of gate installation, you need to decide on their type. According to the standard, gates are made in size 2 m 60 cm. If necessary, the width of the entrance can be increased to 3 m 50 cm.

1. Opening method:

• Hinged (open like shutters in a house).
• Sliding - do not require space (they slide to the side along the fence). An ideal solution if the dacha plot is small.
• Lifting - entry is carried out by manually or mechanically lifting the gate up.
• Gates for a summer residence with a wicket (have an additional doorway).

Each type has some features, for example, lifting and sliding gates do not require much space to open (this is very convenient in winter, when snow can interfere with the normal movement of the gate). In this regard, swing gates are quite impractical.

This type is very easy to install. Of course, like any gate, it has some disadvantages, for example, when used in winter, you will have to throw away snow before opening. On the other hand, if you are planning to install the gate yourself, this is the best option.

This is the most ancient type of gate and has not changed at all since then. This design is used everywhere, especially in the private sector. Its advantage over other types is the absence of a foundation required for the construction of sliding gates and load-bearing beams used in the lifting version.

The swing version consists of two iron or wooden doors, of arbitrary dimensions, suspended on poles or a brick support, with regular large hinges. They open, depending on the design of the hinges, inward or outward. But most often, there are options with swinging in both directions (outward and inward).

As mentioned above, the choice of material is small (wood, metal) and depends on the owner or customer. For example, from metals, steel or corrugated sheets are most often purchased. Wooden doors can be made of any species, but larch is best, because it is least susceptible to rotting.

Hinged doors are available in two versions:

1. Blind - the opening is completely closed.

Continuous lining (with the selected material) is carried out after the frame is completed. For example, they are stitched with galvanized iron or corrugated sheets of at least 0.7 mm.

1. Transparent - the stitching is not continuous.

A frame with stiffeners is made from round or profile rectangular pipes. The stitching is carried out according to the design solution previously approved by the customer. It can be in the form of a picture or simply made in the form of verticals.

Installation, for example, of the metal version is quite simple and includes several sequential operations:

1. First you need to prepare the frame (frame). It should include two vertical and three horizontal profiles.

To do this, rolled metal (pipes, profiles, angles) are cut (according to a prepared drawing) with a grinder. The dimensions of the rental depend on the dimensions of the gate. For example, when assembling a 3x2 m frame, corners or a profile 40x40-60x60 mm are suitable

1. Then the profiles are connected using a welding machine or bolts.

The profiles must be securely fixed to avoid frame defects; for greater strength, iron triangles that are welded in the corners or braces (metal beams) that are welded diagonally to the gate can be used.

1. The final stage is sheathing.

Connections are made using welding, screws or bolts. For convenience, sheathe in one direction, for example, to the right if you are right-handed, and in the opposite direction if you are left-handed. If you used corrugated sheeting, screw the screws into the recesses.

After all the work is completed, the hinges are welded. All weld joints are cleaned and painted.

Drawing of swing metal gates

The wooden gate frame is simply assembled using nails or screws. Cover it with whatever you like, and screw the hinges in at the end. Braces are also required in this case.

Support pillars can be mounted from bricks, logs or pipes (metal). Post holes are dug approximately 1.8 m deep and 30-50 cm wide. They are filled with 20-30 cm of sand and crushed stone

Pillars made of logs or pipes are inserted into the hole, fixed and filled with concrete so that the solution is level with the ground.

The main criterion that must be adhered to is to concrete the supports at a depth of at least 100 cm (this is the amount of soil freezing; overcoming this threshold, you guarantee the necessary strength and durability of the future gate.

Preparing cement mortar will not be difficult (mix 2 buckets of sand, 3 buckets of crushed stone, and 10 kg of cement, adding water until the required consistency is achieved).

Sliding gates are installed if you are not satisfied with conventional swing gates, or to save space. After all, they resemble a coupe (its doors). Rolling along a wall, fence, room, hangar, they practically do not go beyond its dimensions.

Such gates are a very popular, but expensive pleasure. If we compare them with other systems, installing sliding gates with your own hands always requires certain skills and some preparation. The person who carries out the installation must have relevant experience.

Sliding gates

The general frame of such gates is also made from profiles and is distinguished by the presence of a guide welded to the lower profile. The guide is needed to move along the rollers, which are welded to the channel and pillars (rollers are welded to the pillars to support the gate).

In addition, special catching elements are also attached to the pillars, which are necessary to reduce the force of collision when opening and closing the gate.

Sliding gate diagram

They can be opened (rolled back) by hand, but if you want to automate the gate, then use an electric motor to control it. Additionally, install a movement mechanism (rack with teeth or chain drive).

Installation of rollback systems cannot be completed without purchasing a ready-made installation package, including:

• load-bearing beam (U-shaped);
• plugs;
• 2 main videos;
• end roller;
• trolleys;
• catchers;
• limiters.

You can purchase large, medium or small packages yourself to install sliding gates.
Sets of components (installation packages) are selected based on the weight and dimensions of the cantilever-type structure.

Installation package and location of components

Two roller supports are mounted on a previously prepared channel blank. The U-shaped carrier is welded (screwed) to the bottom of the frame so that there are roller carts inside it. This will ensure long-term operation and minimal contamination of the mechanism.

Roller supports are secured to the foundation with bolts or plates. This will allow them to move freely while supporting the weight of the gate

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding gates is done as follows:

1. We dig a trench 1.7-3 m deep and 40–50 cm wide under the foundation. The length of our concrete foundation should be 1/2 the width of the passage.
2. Next we make a frame from reinforcement. We take reinforcement with caliber d12, channel No. 18 and weld the parts. The length of the channel is also equal to 1/2 the width of the opening. Reinforcement bars must lie below the soil freezing level.
3. We fill the bottom of the trench for the base of the gate with sand and compact it.
4. Next, we lower the welded frame into the ditch and set the horizontal position to a building level. Using two bars located at the ends of the channel, we check its parallelism to the rollback line.
5. After this, we fill our trench with concrete mixture at the rate of:

• cement - 5 bags;
• crushed stone - 0.3 cubic meters;
• sand - 0.5 cubic meters.

Installation of sliding gates

After 5–7 days the base will set completely and become strong.

If you want to control the gate using automation, you must carefully lay the cables in plastic (possibly from the sewer) or metal tubes.

After 5-10 days have passed after the foundation has been completed, installation of the rollback system begins. The instructions suggest dividing the assembly process into stages:

1. Preparatory.

• along the opening at a height of 20 cm from the road we stretch a string to set the position of the carrier.
• We insert the roller supports (checking the instructions) into the beam and move them (simply roll them) to the center of the gate.
• We insert roller trolleys into the U-shaped carrier and secure it to the sash.
• We place the assembled structure on a channel blank.
• We place both roller supports according to the markings.
• We align the gate so that it is parallel to our cord in the opening.
• we strengthen the roller carts onto the laid channel.
• We weld an adjustment pad to the channel for the second roller support.
• We roll the structure to the end to check the horizontal position of the supports and the sash.
• then we just weld the platform (adjustment) of the first support.
• then we remove everything and weld the platforms of the remaining supports to the embedded channel.
• Again we strengthen all the supports and close the gate leaf.
• we close the gate to precisely regulate the horizontal position of the load-bearing element. This is done with a wrench by simply raising/lowering the roller platforms.

1. Freewheel installation

Adjustment is achieved by correct arrangement of the roller carts.

Freewheel installation

Take the appropriate wrench and loosen the nuts securing the adjusting pads and roller supports. We close/open the gate several times to install the roller supports in the desired position. When easy and free movement is achieved, only the nuts at the top need to be tightened.

Next, install the plugs and the roller at the end. It is mounted on the front side of the gate in the U-shaped guide itself. We secure it with bolts and proceed to install the plug, which is supplied in the installation package of the sliding mechanism. It is strengthened from the back. The plug is provided to protect the rollers from rust and jamming due to bad weather.

Then we mount the upper bracket. First, loosen its rollers a little and place this element so that the rollers are flush with the top edge, and the bracket itself is turned towards the support post at the fastening point. Then we press the part and fix it.

Ready sliding gates

1. After this, we begin trimming the gate. We cut the sheets of prepared material:

• iron;
• steel;
• stainless steel;
• corrugated sheeting;
• other.

sheathing begins from the front of the gate, securing the material with screws, rivets, and iron strips.

After this, we install the upper and lower catchers to relieve the load on the mechanism and prevent the gate from swinging.

Lifting gates for a summer residence save a sufficient amount of space, but their installation cannot be done without the help of specialists. The gate has an electric mechanism for lifting and devices with which it is carried out (ropes, slats, gears).

Such gates are difficult to open by hand due to their heavy weight. Therefore, they are not suitable for summer cottages that do not have electricity, as they require a constant power supply.

There are three types of such gates:

1. Louvre type.
2. Lifting rotary.
3. Rising vertically.

Up and over gates

The easiest to manufacture is the third option. It represents two pillars with guides along which gates with rollers slide. If you use an electric motor with a rack and pinion mechanism, installing it vertically, you can automate the process.

One of the options for overhead gates.

It is difficult to make blinds yourself, so you need to buy them. This is the most expensive of all options. Instructions for self-installation are provided in the video. Therefore, you can try installing them yourself.

In principle, any of the gates, except louvered ones, can be made with a wicket; you only need the wicket itself and several additional profiles.

There are two types of gate installation:

The gate on the sash is done like this:

First, we choose which half of the gate will have a gate, then we mount 4 profiles (vertically). Two profiles will mark the limits of the frame (those that are further from the gate are external) and two in the future will form an opening for the gate (internal).

Separate gate

To increase strength, braces are welded (in the corners, to the external posts). In addition, a middle profile (horizontally) is mounted, defining the internal opening of the gate. Afterwards, the profiles are drawn taking into account the additional 2 cm of the opening diagonally. 2 cm is the accepted tolerance for possible metal expansion or deformation. Finishing work is carried out similarly with swing gates.

It is completely logical that the gates are installed after the construction of the fence for the dacha and require the preliminary installation of support pillars.

Preparation

Before starting work, to perform it efficiently, we will need the appropriate tool, namely:

• welding machine (for fastening profiles, the power of the device must be at least 1000A);
• grinder (for cutting workpieces and general metal processing);
• dye;
• hammer;
• building level;
• roulette.

Tools are your faithful assistants

In addition to the tools, you need to prepare the starting material - profile pipes (the ideal option is a pipe with dimensions 60x40x2.5). The amount of required material, including metal, is calculated in estimates or found out when drawing up drawings or diagrams.

When constructing sliding gates for a summer residence, for their further normal operation you additionally need:

• rollers (including end rollers);
• beams;
• catching mechanisms.

Mounting package for assembly

All these elements form a console, without which it is simply impossible to make sliding gates.

Before installing a garden gate, you need to decide on the dimensions (standard parameters - length, width, height). If the gate is used for the passage of vehicles, then 2.6 m will be quite enough for a regular passenger car (for a truck - 3.5 m). Remember, if you have swing gates, increasing their size will increase the space required to open and close them.

After preparing all the materials and tools, they begin to pour the foundation.

Foundation

When installing sliding gates for a summer cottage, it is also necessary to organize the foundation. We will dig a trench in advance (about 1.5 meters deep and 40 cm wide). We will place a channel there with welded pieces of reinforcement and fill it with concrete level with the ground, as indicated in the paragraph on sliding gates.

The channel is installed using a building level to avoid distortions. It takes 7 days for the concrete to harden so that work can continue.

Foundation diagram for sliding gates

How to make a frame

From the very beginning, using any available tools (grinders, metal brushes), clean the pipes, and then paint them. For the manufacture of frames of various types of gates, including sliding ones, pipes of different sections (60x40 or 50x50) are used. The outer frame is made from pipes, and then the inner frame is welded into it. Next, the structure is sheathed with wood, metal or corrugated board.

If you are installing sliding gates for your dacha with your own hands, you will also need to align the rollers on the channel, then put the guide on top (set it level) and weld special carts with the rollers to the channel itself. Then the support rollers, which were mentioned earlier, are welded, and the final stage is to paint the entire frame to give it anti-corrosion properties and an aesthetic design.

The gate is usually made of the same material as the fence. Depending on the needs of the owner, the wooden gate is varnished or painted.

The most common option is to make a gate from a picket fence

Picket fence gate

For normal use of the structure, determine in advance the distance between the gate supports; this will determine the size of the door itself and the width of the passage. Support posts can be made of concrete, brick, metal or wood. After concreting the supports and drying the solution, hinges are attached to the supports and the door is hung so that there is a gap of 5-10 mm at the bottom. Try the gate on the supports before they are concreted, measure the distance required for normal opening/closing, and only then install

Photo of the gate at the dacha

Steel profiled sheet – light material and practical, and it looks presentable. Therefore, many homeowners build from corrugated sheets country fences, wickets and gates. Such solutions are successful due to their simplicity and reasonable cost, especially if the owner decides to do all the work himself. To do this, you need 3 things: desire, availability of tools and knowledge of construction technology, which will be discussed further.

Country gates made of corrugated sheets

Determining the size and design of the gate

To make sashes with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is decide on the width of the opening. It depends on the size of the vehicle entering the yard. There are the following recommendations in this regard:

1. The minimum passage width for a passenger car is 2.5-2.6 m.
2. The dimensions of freight transport, including imported ones, do not exceed 2.5 m. The exception is large-sized special equipment (excavators, bulldozers, tractors). The entrance size for trucks must be at least 3.5 m.
3. If the front fence is located on a narrow street or intersection, then the car will need more space for a turning maneuver and the entrance opening must be increased by 0.5-1.5 m, depending on the conditions.
4. Don't try to make the gate too big unnecessarily. Small sashes will last longer and will cost less.
5. The height of the opening part is not accepted smaller size adjacent fence.

Scheme of gates and wickets made of corrugated sheets with double-sided cladding

The best option gate layouts are 2 doors of the same size, opening into the yard. The gate is separated and made next to the entrance or placed separately, at some distance. If you embed front door into one of the doors using the garage method, the service life of the structure will be reduced due to constant rocking.

Structurally, garden gates, made by hand from rolled metal and corrugated sheets, consist of the following main elements:

• supporting part - pillars and foundations;
• metal frames of doors;
• canvases ( outer skin), in this case – profiled sheet.

To manufacture them, you need to select rolled steel of the optimal cross-section to ensure the reliability of the structure and not overpay for building materials.

What materials to choose?

There are many types of rolled metal suitable for gate construction. The most acceptable option, both in terms of reliability and price of products, is profile pipes.

Variety of profile pipes from of stainless steel

If the width of the opening is 3.5 m, and the height of the fence is up to 2.5 m, then taking into account the weight of the corrugated sheet for production structural elements you can roll the following section with your own hands:

• for pillars - a profile of 100x80 mm (minimum), or better - 100x100 mm with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm;
• for the frame and braces - profile pipe 60x40 mm with a wall of 3 mm;
• on the canopies of the supports - steel sheet 2 mm thick.

A separate issue is the choice of brand and thickness of corrugated sheet for sheathing steel frames With your own hands, you won’t have any difficulties choosing the color. The marking of these products is deciphered as follows:

1. The first letter indicates the type of sheet: C - wall, N - roofing, NS - universal.
2. The second number is the height of the profile ridges in millimeters.
3. The number separated by a dash is the modular (useful) width of the sheet (in mm).
4. The length and thickness of products is not reflected in the marking.

It is customary to sheathe gates with low-profile wall sheets of grades C8 - C20. Modular width of great importance does not have it, since for all manufacturers it is approximately the same - 0.9-1.2 m. The NS brand is also suitable, but its cost is higher. It is not worth buying a profiled sheet for roofing with high ridges; it is significantly more expensive, and it does not suit the appearance.

The choice of corrugated sheeting based on thickness is to avoid buying too thin metal that will bend with your finger. There are products on the market with a thickness of 0.3-0.35 mm, which is absolutely unacceptable. You will be satisfied with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.

Work order

Do-it-yourself assembly and installation of gates is carried out in several stages:

• determination of pole installation points;
• installation and concreting of supports;
• preparation and cutting of rolled metal to size;
• assembly of sash frames;
• fastening of sheets from corrugated sheets;
• hanging sashes.

If the fence at the dacha was built earlier than the gate, then the posts for them are already ready and there is no need to complete the first 2 stages. Otherwise, you need to carefully measure and mark the places where you plan to install the pillars. Further technology is worth considering in more detail.

Installation of pillars

Do-it-yourself installation of gate supports is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Cut pipes for posts. The length is calculated as follows: the height of the fence plus the bottom opening of 30-50 mm plus the underground part, which is at least 1/3 of the total length.
2. Dig a hole with a diameter of 30-40 cm. The depth is taken on the basis that 1/3 of the stand will be in the ground, but not less than 1 m.
3. Compact the bottom of the hole, fill with 10 cm of crushed stone and compact again.
4. Insert the support into the hole, align it vertically in 2 planes and fix it. Before this, for reliability, the pole is anchored - welding the sole and pieces of reinforcement to the underground part.
5. Prepare concrete grade M200 (2.5 parts sand and 4.2 parts crushed stone are added to 1 part M400 cement) and pour it into the pit.

It is allowed to load the supports after the concrete has completely hardened - after 28 days, and during this time you can make the gate itself and make its lining from corrugated sheeting. If you plan to install the gate close to the gate, then instead of 2 posts you will have to concrete 3.

Manufacturing of sashes

The sashes are made by hand in the form of steel frames from profile pipes that are butt welded. Before this, it is important to accurately determine and draw on the dimensions of the canvases so that when opening they do not cling to the ground (a gap of 3-5 cm) and clearly converge with each other minimum clearance. The assembly technology is as follows:

1. Cut profile pipes according to the dimensions according to the drawing.
2. Lay out the workpieces on a flat area in this way: a frame, a horizontal jumper in the middle and 2 braces for rigidity - on top and bottom.
3. Using a square, use tacks to connect all the frame parts, except for the braces. Grab a horizontal jumper in the alignment between vertical posts and flush with them.
4. Measure 2 diagonals of the frame. If their lengths are different, then the frame must be aligned manually, and then the braces must be secured.
5. Boil all the seams thoroughly and clean them with a grinder.
6. Weld the latches and mortgages for installing the lock.

Before installing the profiled sheet, the future gate should be primed and painted in the desired color. While the paint dries, you need to cut the corrugated sheeting with your own hands to fit the dimensions of the sashes. In this case, the top of the canvas can be shaped using a jigsaw. Fastening to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws or self-drilling screws. To beautifully highlight the upper border of the canvas, you should put a painted U-shaped profile made of thin metal on it.

Final installation of the gate

Finished sashes with corrugated sheet cladding must be hung on poles, working together with an assistant in the following sequence:

1. Using stands and supports, install the sashes close to the supports, tying them together with wire.
2. Align the panels vertically and make sure there are gaps at the bottom.
3. Weld the hinges to the posts and check how well the gate opens. Make sure that when closing they do not touch the frames and are at the same level.
4. Finally weld the hinges with your own hands and check the operation of the valves again.
5. Apply 2 layers of paint to poles and canopies, after covering them with GF-021 primer.

In order for the gates at the dacha to be securely locked, you need to install and adjust the latches. For the lock bolts, you can cut holes directly in profile pipe, and to lock the latches, pour concrete into the ground round pipes. More modern version- put automatic electric drives opening the doors.

Every owner strives to ensure that his dacha is as comfortable and beautiful as possible. Of course, any dacha begins with a gate, so this element needs to be given no less attention than other objects. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to make beautiful and high-quality metal country gates with your own hands.

Types of country gate designs

Currently, the most common types of gate designs are:

• Hinged doors are two doors that swing open in one direction or the other. Making them will not take much time and effort. The inconvenience of this design is its bulkiness in the open position - often there are objects near the doors that interfere with their opening.
• Sliding - the undoubted advantage of this design is that the doors do not swing outward, but slide to the side. Another advantage is the ability to open both manually and automatically. True, the manufacture of such a design will require a much greater investment of time and money.

Lifting structures can also be classified as sliding structures. Their peculiarity is that they rise up and do not roll away to the side.

It must be said that it is more advisable to make swing gates yourself, especially if you do not have similar work experience, since this design is simpler.

Gate manufacturing

Project

First of all, you need to make the drawings of the country gates yourself. All dimensions of the structure and its features should be marked on them. In addition, the diagram should show its relative location with other objects on the site.

Note!
In the drawings it is necessary to describe all the elements of the future product as accurately as possible, as this will subsequently facilitate its manufacture.
Therefore, the structure should be depicted from three sides.

Once the drawings are ready, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the structure.

Materials

Before you begin, you should prepare the following materials:

• Corrugated sheets or metal sheets;
• Metal pipes;
• Metal corners or square pipes;
• Sand and cement;
• Four hinges (you can use garage door hinges).

Installation of supports

Should be used as supports for the sashes steel pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm. You can replace the pipe steel profile, for example, an I-beam or channel with a flange width of at least 100 mm.

Note!
The stiffer and stronger the supports are, the longer the product will last.

Instructions for installing supports are as follows:

• First of all, it is necessary to apply markings to the soil, indicating the location of the gate and indicating the location of the supports.
• Next, you should cut the pipes to obtain supports of the required length, in accordance with the drawings.
• Then the supports are installed, for which it is necessary to dig holes. Since when opening and closing the valves, variables appear on the axis dynamic loads, the supports must be installed more securely than fence posts. The optimal depth of the pits is 0.8 meters.
• After installing the supports in the pits, they should be filled with concrete. In this case, the vertical position of the supports must be checked with a building level.

Note!
The width of the gate must be calculated carefully so that the gate is not too wide.
The wider they are, the more significant the wind will exert on them.
At the same time, the gate must be wide enough so that a car can drive into the yard.

It must be said that the racks do not have to be metal. For example, you can lay out pillars of brick or other material.

Manufacturing of sashes

While the concrete hardens, you can begin making the sashes in accordance with the drawings. The design of the doors consists of frames to which corrugated sheets or metal sheets are welded. It must be said that the price of corrugated sheets is usually lower metal sheets, since the sheets of this material are much thinner.

To increase rigidity, several cross members are usually welded to each frame. For example, a common option is one horizontal and two vertical slats.

Thus, first of all, when making gates, it is necessary to cut the corner or square pipes into pieces required length and weld them into a frame. It is extremely important to ensure the angles are accurate when doing this job.

Note!
When making frames, it should be taken into account that after installing the sashes, there should be a distance of at least 8-12 millimeters between them.

After making the frames, sheets of metal should be cut required size and weld them to the frame. There should be a limiting strip on one of the sashes that will hide the gap between the sashes.

Pictured is a gate hinge

Loops

An important point in the manufacture of the structure is the installation of hinges. This work requires extreme precision, since the correct location of the gate and its performance depend on it.

As mentioned above, garage hinges can be used as awnings. For sashes standard sizes Four loops are enough, i.e. two hinges per sash. If the gate is large and powerful, 6 hinges should be used.

Before installation, metal plates are welded to each of the hinges, which in turn are welded to the supports. The second part of the hinges is welded to the sashes, after which the structure is installed on the support pillars.

After this, all that remains is to complete the bolt mechanism. Most often it consists of two L-shaped stopper pins, which are located at the bottom of the gate.