That is, a truly beautiful and reliable roof made of flexible tiles“TECHNONICOL SHINGLAS” can be made with your own hands using a classic set of tools: a hammer, a roofing knife, nails, a pencil, a tape measure, metal scissors, a spatula and a level gauge.

Where to begin?

Of course, from the ground up. The plank flooring of the roof structure must be durable, dry, level and well ventilated from the inside. It can be made from moisture-resistant plywood or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB-3). In any case, gaps 3-5 mm thick must be made between the sheets to compensate for wood deformations.

It is worth paying attention to the shade of the tiles- it may differ slightly in different packs, therefore, in order to create a color balance on the roof, shingles (rectangular sheets of flexible tiles) from 4-7 packs are mixed together.

Installation is best done in dry weather with a minimum ambient temperature of up to + 5 degrees. If this is not possible, then it is recommended to keep the shingles in a warm room for about a day after transportation. And at the stage of attaching shingles, it is best to serve packs from a warm room, about 5-6 packs each, and during the process of attaching shingles, it is better to warm up the adhesive layer with a hair dryer.

Step 1 - how to strengthen the eaves overhang

The cornice is strengthened using painted metal cornice strips. They are attached to the plank flooring with special roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 12–15 cm. The overlap of the planks should be 30–50 mm.

Step 2 - why install underlay carpet

Made from special roll material. It makes the roof more airtight, and it will be better if it is laid over the entire roof area. The carpet is rolled out horizontally, from the eaves overhang with horizontal overlaps of at least 10 cm. It is important to take into account that on this overhang the material should deviate from the bend by 1-2 cm (for an average roof). The width of the indentation depends on the length and angle of inclination of the slope itself. Entrances to the cornice and gable, as well as overlapping areas, are coated with bitumen mastic using a spatula. The thickness of the mastic is no more than 1 mm.

The carpet is made of two types of material. Self-adhesive is used in valleys and cornices. underlay carpet ANDEREP ULTRA with a very durable polyester rot-resistant base and a fine-grained sand coating on the top layer.

On the rest of the area can be used in the work ANDEREP PROF (light lining material with a base made of rot-resistant polyester and non-slip polypropylene coating) or ANDEREP GL (material with a fiberglass base and double-sided sprinkling) with mechanical fixation and adhesive layer in places of horizontal overlaps. By the way, ANDEREP GL has thermoactive longitudinal strips, thanks to which the use of bitumen mastic is not required when installing longitudinal overlaps.

At the end of installation roll material It is carefully fixed along the edges with wide-headed roofing nails. Step – 20−25 cm.

Step 3 - how to strengthen the gable overhang

The gable part of the roof also needs special protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, wind, mechanical influences. To do this, painted metal end strips are attached to the gable overhangs and on top of the underlayment, which are coated with bitumen mastic during the installation of the tiles themselves.

TO load-bearing structure roofs the strips are fastened with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 4 - what is special about the valley device?

The endow is known to have a concave angle, which collects the most amount of moisture, so correct installation of the roofing pie in this particular place will largely ensure reliable operation of the building. Let's consider the so-called “open” method of installing a valley.

On top of underlay carpet, along the axis of the valley, a special roofing material is laid - TECHNONICOL valley carpet. Along the perimeter of the back side it is coated with TECHNONICOL FIXER bitumen mastic to a width of 10-12 cm. front side the carpet is nailed with roofing nails at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge. Fastening pitch: 20-25 cm.

Step 5 - how to lay flexible tiles

For comfort and maintaining the required geometry, horizontal and vertical markings are made on the lining carpet. In this case, the vertical lines should correspond to the width of one sheet of tiles, the horizontal lines should correspond to about 80 cm, this is approximately five rows of flexible tiles. Please note that the markings are simply a guide and not a mounting diagram.

Laying begins horizontally along the cornice. The first strip is made using universal ridge-eaves tiles. You can also use ordinary tiles from the selected collection, but you will need to cut off the tile “petals” from the shingles. The tiles are glued from the bend of the eaves to 1-2 cm and additionally nailed.

If ordinary cut tiles are used as a “start”, then the back side of the shingles must be coated with TECHNONICOL FIXER mastic, that is, where there is no adhesive layer. The second row is mounted from the center of the slope - offset to the left or right by half the “petal”. Next, the installation proceeds diagonally from the center of the slope in the form of a strip or pyramid.

The tile elements are laid with an overlap at least 15 cm using a special adhesive layer. It is located on the back of the shingles. Additionally, the shingles are attached to the base of the roof using special galvanized nails with wide heads.

From the side of the gable overhang For flexible tiles, it is necessary to cut off the upper corner of the shingle to drain rainwater. The shingle itself should be moved back 2 cm relative to the overhang. This is necessary for free flow of water. Also, to protect against slanting rain, the tiles must be coated in the gable area with TECHNONICOL FIXER mastic to a depth of 10 cm.

Step 6 – tiled valley, continued

When the laying process reached the valley, then at this node the shingles of flexible tiles are laid in a chaotic order on top of the valley carpet, after which they are trimmed so that the central axis of the valley becomes open, 5-15 cm wide (see figure below). When cutting, a board should be placed under the shingles to avoid damaging the underlying insulating materials. After that, the back areas of the sheets of flexible tiles, which do not have an adhesive layer at the junction with the valley, are coated with mastic. Each shingle is fixed with roofing nails in the upper part no closer than 30 cm from the axis of the valley.

Step 7 - how to simply close the ribs and slopes

The edges of the slopes are formed by shingles special ridge-eaves tiles. Laying is carried out from the bottom up, the tiles are attached to the base with four nails - two on each side. These places are subsequently covered with overlaps 3-5 cm long from the upper shingles. The back part of the ridge tiles in places where there is no self-adhesive layer is coated with TECHNONICOL FIXER mastic.

Step 8 - why is it important to install a ridge aerator?

The ridge plays an important role in the deviceroof ventilation , which helps air movement and removes condensation from the under-roof space. Let's consider the option of installing a continuous aerator installed on the roof ridge along its entire length. The shingles that form the roof joint are trimmed along the axis. Then a cut is made in the underlayment and the roof structure itself for air passage - at a certain interval and indentation from the edge of the roof. A solid plastic aerator is placed on top, along the axis. After which it is covered with ridge-eaves tiles using a technology similar to the construction of a roof slope.

Step 9 - how to make connections

Adjacencies mainly include joints roof slope with horizontal and inclined walls, as well as chimneys. At the junction of the slope and the wall, a wooden triangular strip is nailed onto which the abutment element is placed. If the wall is brick, it must be plastered and coated with a bitumen primer, because a valley carpet is laid on the walls and on top of the flexible tiles - to a height of 30-50 cm and about 20 cm over the tiles.

The entire rear area is covered with mastic"TECHNONICOL FIXER". Sealing of smoke and ventilation pipes made from a valley carpet pattern. Top part The carpet is placed in a hole and covered with a metal apron, followed by sealing.

There is one nuance here– installation of the pattern must take into account the cascading nature of the water. Therefore, first, the front part of the pattern is mounted; it extends 20 cm onto the ordinary tiles. The left, right and rear parts “go” under the tiles. The back pattern is mounted last. The distance between the tiles and the pipe on the side and rear is approximately 8 cm.

Until recently, only galvanized steel, tiles and slate were used as roofing materials. Several people were involved in the installation work, who spent a lot of time and effort on the work. But today the range of materials has expanded and now, after the roof has been built, one person can handle the roofing work; a lot of new things have appeared - for example, soft roofing.

According to its technical and operational characteristics soft roofing is in many ways superior to other materials. Its advantages include:

• ease of installation (can be done alone);
• strength;
• durability;
• flexibility;
• resistance to moisture and corrosion;
• tightness;
• attractive appearance.

Types of soft roofing

Often as roofing The following types of roofing are used:

Attention! If the top layer of the roof will not be removed, then upon purchase soft roof it should be clarified whether it is compatible with the material from which the structure is made.

Preliminary work

Installation begins with preparation.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

As already noted, one person can do the laying of a soft roof. To work, he will need a completely standard list of materials:

Stage 2. Preparatory work

The base must be as strong as possible; its sagging is unacceptable. There are several materials that can be used for strengthening:

• plywood;
• OSB boards;
• tongue and groove boards 10 cm wide.

It is typical that in winter small gaps (about 3 mm) should be left between the seams of the sheathing. If the structure is sheathed with boards, then 5 mm.

Attention! It is advisable to treat the rafter system to protect it from rot and insects, as well as with fire retardants to increase its fire-resistant properties.

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Stage 3. Ventilation gap

Allows you to solve the problem high humidity and reduces the amount of ice that forms in winter time. Moreover, in summer, thanks to ventilation, the temperature inside roofing sandwich decreases.

Ventilation consists of three main elements:

• ventilation outlet;
• inlet valves fresh air(installed from below);
• an air gap 50 mm wide between the base and the waterproofing layer.

Attention! If the slope of the slope exceeds 25ᵒ, then the area of ​​the ventilation hole should be 8 cm². If the slope is less than 25ᵒ, then 16 cm².

Stage 4. Spacer layer

In this case, the gasket means a special one laid along the entire perimeter of the roof. Installation is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the eaves. An overlap of 10 cm is maintained. The material is fixed with nails every 20 cm.

If the roof slope is less than 18ᵒ, the lining can not be laid over the entire area, but only in certain areas, such as:

• skate;
• eaves overhangs;
• junction with a vertical wall;
• location of the chimney pipe.

Attention! If the slope is less than 12ᵒ, then using a soft roof is not recommended.

Stage 5. Installation of planks

Step 1. To protect the material from precipitation, curtain rods are installed on the eaves, or directly on top of the cushioning material. The planks (another name is drip edges) are arranged with an overlap of 2 cm and are fastened with roofing nails (in a zigzag pattern along the entire length of the plank).

Step 2. Pediment strips are installed at the ends of the structure. This must be done with the same 2-centimeter overlap. Nails are driven in increments of 10 cm.

Step 3. Mark the exit location (if the house has a heating stove).

Step 4. Upon completion of installation of the planks, the valley carpet is laid, which will significantly increase the moisture resistance. The color of the carpet must match the color of the roof, the edges are fixed with nails in 10 cm increments.

After this, you can begin laying the roofing material.

Below is the installation technology bitumen shingles, because this is the most common type of soft roof.

Stage 1. Cornice tiles

It is placed on the slats fixed to the overhangs. cornice tiles. Galvanized nails are used for fixation - they are driven in two rows 2.5 cm from the top and bottom edges of the material.

Instead of cornice tiles, you can use ordinary tiles, which will save a little. To do this, the tiles are cut out - shingles are taken and the petals are cut off from them. In this case, installation is carried out “end-to-end” at a distance of 2 cm from the eaves overhang.

Stage 2. Ordinary tiles

Attention! Don't forget about color deviations. Even if all the shingles are from the same batch, the tone in different packages may vary. For this reason, it is recommended to mix six to seven packages in advance.

Step 1. Laying starts from the center roof overhang and is carried out in both directions.

Attention! The protective film from the shingles is removed immediately before installation, since without it the material cannot be stacked.

Nails are used for fastening. Usually four pieces per shingle are enough, but if the roof slope exceeds 45ᵒ, then it is better to use six.

Step 2. The first row is laid in such a way that its edges deviate from the edges of the eaves overhang by 1-1.5 cm. In this case, the petals cover the joints between the eaves tiles.

Step 3. The second row is laid in the same way, but the petals should overlap the cutouts of the previous one.

Step 4. At the edges, the material is cut along the edge and glued. There should be a layer 10 cm wide.

The same is done in end-tiles - the tiles are cut to obtain a 15-centimeter strip, after which the edges are coated with glue to about 7-8 cm.

Attention! When cutting tiles, it is advisable to underlay a piece of plywood so as not to damage the layer below.

Stage 3. Ridge tiles

Step 1. First, the scaffolding is prepared. They will greatly simplify the work with the roof ridge, but after completing the work, do not forget to glue the shingle tabs at the fastening points.

Step 2. The tiles are laid overlapping (about 5 cm), each shingle is fixed with four nails.

Attention! The ridge tiles are laid only after the laying of the row tiles has been completed.

Step 3. To obtain ridge tiles, the cornice tiles are cut at the perforation points. Next, each element is bent and laid with a short part along the roof ridge.

Stage 4. Passages and junctions in the roof

There are several ways to organize passages through the roof. So, if the passage diameter is small, then it is better to use special seals made of rubber. This applies to inputs for antennas and other communications, but the pipes are finished somewhat differently - here it is necessary to take into account possible heating and, as a result, expansion, which is why the technology used is different.

Step 1. First, a triangular-shaped strip (in most cases 5x5 cm) is nailed along the perimeter of the junction of the pipe and the roof.

Step 3. The pipe is covered with insulating material so that 25 cm of the slope and 35 cm of the pipe itself are covered.

On this installation work almost finished, all that remains is to secure the adjacent strip along the entire perimeter of the pipe. Next, the iron apron is fixed, and the seams are carefully sealed with silicone-based sealant.

Adjacent to vertical walls carried out in the same way. The only difference can be considered that the triangular strip does not form a perimeter, but is fixed along the wall.

Video - Installation of soft roofing

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Roll roofing installation

Roll material, which is also called euroroofing material, is laid mainly on flat roofs, although it can sometimes be found on slopes with a slight slope.

The technology looks like this.

Step 1. After rolling out the roll, all folds are aligned and the material is stretched.

Step 2. One side of the roofing material is heated with a special burner until the special indicator melts.

Step 3. After this, the side is glued to the base. When the material has cooled, the roll is rolled back to the place of fixation.

Step 4. The roofing material is fused and gradually rolled out. In this case, you need to adhere to certain rules.

1. The roofing material is fused with an overlap of 5 cm. To do this, a special orientation strip is applied along the entire length.
2. The material must not be overheated, otherwise it will deteriorate and lose its ability to adhere.
3. A high-quality deposited material must be homogeneous - without voids, dark spots, etc.

The joints with other surfaces are treated with bitumen mastic, which, after drying, will have the same properties as euroroofing felt.

Video - Installation of euroroofing felt

As a conclusion

The main points of installation discussed above will help even a non-specialist understand the essence of the issue. The main thing to remember is that adherence to installation technology and strict adherence to all instructions will extend the service life of the soft roof.

Bitumen roofing soft tiles easy to use, durable and aesthetically pleasing. Its big advantage is that it is quite possible self-installation. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to an adhesive base, and is additionally fixed with roofing nails. So you can do the installation of soft tiles with your own hands even alone.

Roofing pie for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

• waterproofing is installed along the rafters;
• on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
• solid flooring.

Let’s look at these materials in more detail - what and how to make them from, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes come in one, two and three layers. Single-layer membranes are the simplest and cheapest, they perform only a double task - they do not allow moisture to pass into the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only is the attic protected from the penetration of condensation or precipitation that suddenly seeps in, but also excess moisture that accompanies human activity is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. They are practically produced by one company - Tyvek.

Two- and three-layer membranes are more durable. In addition to the waterproofing layer, they also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if there is one, is the adsorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate forms on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and is used as insulation mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and when humidity increases by 10%, it loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under the soft tiles there is cold attic, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and the price is only slightly more expensive.

Lathing

Sheathing strips are placed on top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will maintain normal humidity of roofing materials.

The sheathing is made from boards coniferous species(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This minimum clearance, which will ensure normal air movement in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after this layer has dried, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the wood.

The minimum length of the board for sheathing is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You cannot connect them anywhere else.

Flooring

The flooring for soft tiles is made continuous. The materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

• OSB 3;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• tongue and groove boards of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of no more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, gaps must be left between the elements to compensate for temperature expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. The sheet material is fastened with seams staggered, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. The OSB is secured using self-tapping screws or rough nails.

When using boards as flooring, you need to ensure that tree rings the wood was directed downwards. If they are positioned in the opposite direction, they will bend in an arc, the soft tiles will lift, and the tightness of the coating may be compromised. There is one more trick that will keep the wooden flooring level even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying, the ends of the boards are additionally secured with two nails or self-tapping screws driven close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending when drying.

The choice of thickness of material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the sheathing. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring is needed. The best option- frequent steps and thin slabs. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Another point concerns the installation of flooring under soft tiles around the chimney pipe. For a brick pipe whose width is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design resembles a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length and width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides are measured, and the diagonals are measured. And the last check is plane tracking - the entire slope must lie entirely in one plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When purchasing, you will most likely be provided with instructions, in which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all exact dimensions, which this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes in advance - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.

Let’s say right away that you need to handle soft tiles carefully when laying them - they don’t like being bent. Therefore, try not to bend or wrinkle the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of the bitumen shingles.

The drip strip is installed along the roof overhangs

The purpose of the drip strip is to protect the sheathing, rafter sections and flooring from moisture. One edge of the drip is placed on the flooring, the other covers the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are driven in in a checkerboard pattern (one closer to the fold, the second almost at the edge). The fastener installation step is 20-25 cm.

The drip strip is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fastened with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: coat the joint with bitumen mastic and fill it with sealant. At the same stage, hooks are installed, or at least nailed, which will hold the gutters.

Laying a waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing underlay must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter-wide rolls. An adhesive composition is applied to the bottom side, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed and the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material to a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is advisable to avoid joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of the two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying proceeds from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is pressed well.

Next, the waterproofing carpet under the flexible tiles is laid along the eaves overhang. The minimum width of a carpet on a cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The bottom edge is located on top of the drip edge and can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, trimmed if necessary, then the protective film is removed from the back and glued to the backing. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat head (step 20-25 cm).

At the horizontal joints, the overlap of the two sheets is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bitumen mastic, and the material is crimped.

Underlay carpet

Underlay carpet, like waterproofing carpet, is sold in meter-wide rolls, the back side is covered with an adhesive composition. The installation method depends on the roof slope and the profile of the selected bitumen shingles.

When using bitumen shingles with cuts (type Jazz, Trio, Beaver Tail), regardless of the slope, the underlayment is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

Installation of underlayment often requires trimming. This is done using a sharply sharpened knife. To avoid damaging the material below when cutting, lay down a piece of plywood or OSB.

Front (end) strip

Pediment strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the shape of the letter “L”, along the bend line of which there is a small protrusion. They protect the laid roofing materials from wind loads and moisture. The gable strip is laid on the flooring on top of the underlay or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 15 cm.

These planks also come in 2 m pieces and are laid with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Marking the slope

To make installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the underlayment or flooring. This is done using a paint cord. Lines along the eaves are drawn at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one shingle of flexible tiles). This markup is done easier installation— the edges are aligned using it, it’s easier to track distances.

Valley carpet

More valley material is laid on top of the already laid waterproofing carpet. It is slightly wider and serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the bottom side, it is laid, trimmed at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Stepping back from the 4-5 cm mark, a special mastic with increased fixation, Fixer, is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed into a strip about 10 cm wide with a spatula.

The valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, cut-outs are made from valley carpet or galvanized metal painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered and treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material extends onto the pipe by at least 30 cm, leaving at least 20 cm on the roof.

The pattern is coated with bitumen mastic and placed in place. The front part is installed first, then the right and left.

Some of the side elements are wrapped onto the front part. Back wall installed in last resort. Its parts extend to the sides.

With proper installation on the flooring around the pipe, you get a platform completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying the tiles in this place, the surface is coated with bitumen mastic.

The tiles extend onto the laid carpet on three sides, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

The upper part of the junction is sealed using a metal strip, which is attached to dowels.

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

Round pipe output

There are special passage devices for the passage of ventilation pipes. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends onto the tiles by at least 2 cm.

Having attached the passage element to the roof, trace it internal hole. Along the applied contour, a hole is cut out in the substrate into which a round pipe is inserted.

The back part of the skirt of the passage element is coated with bitumen mastic, adjusted to the desired position, and additionally secured around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is coated with mastic.

The shingles are cut as close as possible to the protrusion of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special coating that protects against ultraviolet radiation.

Start strip

Installation of soft tiles begins with laying the starting strip. Usually these are ridge-eaves tiles or row tiles with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, with its edge touching the gable strip. The lower edge of the starting strip is placed on the dropper, 1.5 cm away from its fold.

Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingles are leveled and laid. Each section of bitumen shingles is fastened with four nails - in the corners of each fragment, 2-3 cm away from the edge or perforation line.

If a cut of ordinary tiles is used as a starting strip, some of it will lack adhesive. In these places, the substrate is coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There are flexible tiles with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

Before laying bitumen shingles on the roof, open several packs - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be obvious spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition adhesive composition, the tiles are also secured with roofing nails. The amount of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive the nails in correctly. The caps should press against the shingles but not break through the surface.

Valley design

Using a painter's cord, mark a zone in the valley into which nails cannot be driven - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is trimmed

When laying ordinary tiles, the nails are driven as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be driven, and the shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut diagonally, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bitumen mastic and fixed with nails.

Pediment decoration

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that they reach the edge (protrusion) end strip 1 cm remained. The upper corner of the shingle is cut off in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm diagonally. The edge of the tile is coated with mastic. A strip of mastic is at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

If the flooring in the area of ​​the ridge is made continuous, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. Bituminous shingles are laid up to the beginning of the hole, after which a special ridge profile with ventilation holes is installed.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. Several elements can be used on a long ridge; they are connected end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. The protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

Ridge tiles are ridge-eaves divided into three parts. There is a perforation on it, and the fragment is torn off along it (first bend it, press the fold, then tear it off).

The same elements can be cut from ordinary tiles. It is divided into three parts, without paying attention to the drawing. The corners of the resulting tiles are cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a block and, gently pressing, bent.

Ribs and bends

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is drawn along the bend at the required distance with a paint cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. The laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then, retreating 2 cm from the top edge, it is fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment extends 3-5 cm onto the laid one.

In foreign countries, flexible tiles have for many years occupied a leading position among roofing materials used in the construction of private houses. It began to gain popularity here relatively recently. This material can be used to cover pitched roofs of any configuration. This is due to its ease of installation, light weight, durability and aesthetic appearance. Flexible tiles can be installed with your own hands, but although this is a simple process, there are certain nuances and features that you need to become familiar with before starting work.

Preparing the roof for installation of flexible tiles

Installation of flexible tiles can be carried out at temperatures environment more than 5 o C. This is due to the fact that, in addition to metal fasteners, its elements are connected to each other using a self-adhesive layer. At low temperatures this layer will not warm up enough, so the necessary adhesion and tightness of the coating will not be achieved.

When the weather is cool outside, solar heat alone is not enough to glue the shingles, so you must additionally use a hair dryer. In addition, at low temperatures, the flexibility of bitumen shingles decreases, it becomes more fragile and it can be quite difficult to give the sheets the required shape.

Installation of the base for flexible tiles

Forming a base for flexible tiles consists of several stages:

1. Installation of a vapor barrier membrane. It is laid with a slight sag (2–4 cm) and with an overlap between the strips of at least 100 mm. At the junction, the canvases are glued together with double-sided tape.

   The vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the rafter joists from the side of the room and laid without tension (sagging of 2–4 cm is allowed)

2. Laying thermal insulation. Plates or rolls of insulation are laid between the rafters so that they fit there with a noticeable tension. To do this, the elements of the insulating layer are cut 5–10 cm wider than the distance between the rafter joists.
   

   Plates or rolls of insulation are cut to size slightly more step between the rafters, so when they are laid, no gaps or voids remain

3. Installation of a waterproofing layer. To protect from moisture and wind, lay on top of the insulation waterproofing membrane, pre-fixing it with furniture staples.
4. Installation of counter-lattice. Bars with a cross section of 40x40 or 50x50 mm are stuffed on top, orienting them along the rafters. The counter grille additionally secures waterproofing film and at the same time creates a ventilated gap necessary to remove condensation from the under-roof space.
5. Installation of continuous sheathing. For these purposes, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are used, OSB boards or boards with a cross-section of at least 20x100 mm, laid in increments of 3–5 mm.
   

   When creating a continuous sheathing, small gaps are left between the sheets to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood materials

Before carrying out work, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic to protect them from rot, mold and insects.

In order to properly install soft tiles, you need to make a flat and continuous base. To create it, whenever possible, you need to use boards or slabs of the same thickness or use special linings, carefully monitoring the evenness outer surface. When creating the sheathing, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 18–20%.

The sheet material is laid so that it long side was located parallel to the cornice. When boards are used, their length should be such as to span at least two purlins. The joining of all sheathing elements is carried out only on the rafter legs.

When temperature and humidity change, wooden elements change their size, so small expansion joints must be left between them.

When creating a roofing pie under flexible tiles, you need to take care of good ventilation, so a gap of 5 or more centimeters high is created between the coating and the waterproofing film. If everything is done correctly, then less heat from the house will be transferred to the roofing material, so the formation of condensation and, accordingly, ice on it will be reduced. In summer, the ventilation gap will not allow the under-roof space to heat up too much. For air circulation, holes are left in the overhang lining and an exhaust duct is made in the ridge.

Counter-lattice bars laid along the rafter joists over the waterproofing coating are responsible for ventilation of the under-roof space.

Installation of lining material

Flexible tiles can be used on pitched roofs with an inclination angle of more than 12 o. It should only be laid on special lining material:

• if the angle of inclination of the slope does not exceed 30 o, the lining layer is arranged over the entire surface;
• if the slope is steeper, then the lining is laid only along the cornice, near the pipes, at junctions with the wall and in the valleys. This is necessary to ensure reliable waterproofing in these places, since snow and ice accumulate most of all in them.

On roofs with a slope of less than 30 degrees, strips of lining material are laid parallel to the eaves with an overlap of at least 100 mm

Different lining materials can be used, so the method of installation will vary.

1. The composite material, consisting of a film and bitumen filler, is laid on a self-adhesive layer, so it is enough to spread it on the base and roll it with a roller.
2. The polyester underlay carpet is fixed with bitumen mastic, and additionally secured on top and on the sides with special nails with wide and flat heads with a pitch of 200 mm.

The canvases are laid along the roof eaves with a longitudinal overlap of at least 10 cm and a transverse overlap of at least 20 cm. The technology for laying the lining material provides for a certain width in different places:

• from the center of the valley - 50 cm on each side;
• from the ridge - 25 cm in both directions;
• from the end and cornice strip- at least 40 cm.

To ensure maximum tightness in areas of overlap, the lining is additionally coated with bitumen mastic.

Methods for installing flexible tiles

Fixing a soft roof can be done using various fastening elements, it all depends on the type of roof base.

Fastening with roofing nails is the most common method and is used when the base is made of moisture-resistant plywood, boards or OSB. If the under-roof space is insulated, the tips of the nails will be hidden, so the possibility of injury while in the attic is eliminated. In this way, you can attach starter, row and ridge tiles, as well as underlayment and additional elements.

Roofing nails must be driven strictly perpendicular to the surface of the flexible tiles

Installation of flexible tiles is carried out using nails 25–40 cm long with a head diameter of 8 to 12 mm. It is recommended to use galvanized nails rather than ordinary steel ones, as they have a significantly longer service life. They are hammered in strictly perpendicular to the sheathing, the cap should be adjacent to the tile. It's bad when the cap is recessed into roofing material, and it’s not good if there is a gap between it and the soft tiles.

For installation of flexible tiles and all additional elements per 100 square meters the roof will need 10 kg of nails.

To hammer nails, you can use a nailer - a pneumatic nailing hammer. It may have a drum or rack design. Nickel-plated nails are used and they also have a wide head.

The use of an automatic nailer (nailer) significantly speeds up the process of fastening the roof covering

Self-tapping screws with press washers

Roofing screws are not as common an option for soft roofing as nails, but in some cases there is no alternative. They are used for fixing flexible tiles to a laminated plywood base. In this case, the plywood also acts as interior decoration attic. Typically this method is used when creating a roof on a terrace or gazebo. You cannot use nails, as they are difficult to drive into this material - they can destroy it.

Using self-tapping screws, the tiles are usually attached to a laminated base on a gazebo or terrace, where it also acts as an interior decoration

When choosing self-tapping screws, it is necessary to take into account that their length should be slightly less than the thickness of the plywood. Self-tapping screws with press washers should also be used when the base is made of thin boards, since nails can split them.

Staples

It is recommended to use staples in the same cases as self-tapping screws, but it should be kept in mind that they do not fit well into a laminated surface. This option is suitable for installing tiles on a gazebo, shed or doghouse, but it is better not to use it for the main building, since it is not a very reliable fastening.

It is not recommended to fasten flexible tiles using staples on a residential building, since this method does not provide a sufficient degree of reliability

Fusing with a construction hairdryer is used in cases where nails or screws cannot be used. Typically, such installation of a soft roof is used when covering forged canopies or other surfaces, when a sheet of metal or thin plywood. A construction hair dryer can only be used for those flexible tiles that have a self-adhesive base.

A construction hair dryer can only be used to attach tiles that have a self-adhesive base.

Installation of flexible tiles using a heat gun is a complex and time-consuming process that requires professional skills and experience.

Tool for installing a shingle roof

Before you can begin work, you need to purchase everything necessary materials and tools:

• starting, row and ridge elements;
• lining;
• mastic;
• putty knife;
• sealant;
• fastening elements: nails, screws or staples;
• metal scissors for cutting additional elements;
• cornice and pediment strips;
• valley carpet;
• roofing knife for cutting flexible tiles;
• measuring instruments;
• tapping cord or chalk;
• construction hairdryer

Before starting work, you need to make sure that all materials are compatible and have the same shade.

Shingles (individual elements of soft tiles) are small in size, so when laying them on the base there is a high probability of making it uneven. To avoid such errors, you must first mark the surface on which the flexible tiles will be mounted:

• using a level and chalk, draw vertical lines along the edges of the roof surface in increments of 1 m;
• horizontal lines are made in increments of 70 cm, they must be perpendicular to the vertical ones.

The laying scheme is as follows:

1. According to the developed technology, installation of a soft roof begins from the lower edge of the slope, departing 2–3 cm from the edge. Laying the first row can be done:
   
2. Installation of the second row is done according to the markings made, moving from the middle to the edges. Before attaching the shingles, the protective film must be removed from them, then pressed to the surface and secured with the selected fastener. If the sheets do not have a self-adhesive base, they must be coated with bitumen mastic. The following rows are laid with an offset, which is determined by the geometry of the coating used. Three nails are enough to secure one shingle. The outermost sheets of tiles must be trimmed, coated with mastic and glued to the base. To level color scheme, it is recommended to place items from different packages side by side.

   In addition to fastening with self-tapping screws, the edges of the sheets are coated with bitumen mastic for reliable waterproofing.

Video: sequence of laying flexible tiles

Features of installation of roof elements made of flexible tiles

To protect and strengthen the gable overhang, metal additional elements are installed. They are laid on top of the lining and securely fixed with nails, which are driven in every 10–15 cm.

Installing a drip line on a roof made of flexible tiles

To strengthen and protect the eaves overhang, metal additional elements are used, which are called. The extensions are fastened to the edge of the base with nails, driving them in 10–15 cm in a checkerboard pattern. When connecting the planks, make an overlap of up to 5 cm and hammer nails every 2–3 cm.

To fix the drip, the nails are driven in a checkerboard pattern with a spacing of 10–15 cm

In addition to the fact that the drip line protects the eaves overhang from moisture and strong wind, it also serves to direct water flowing from the roof into the gutter and plays an aesthetic role in the design of the roof. The color of the drips is matched to the base coating.

The sheathing for a soft roof consists of beams, boards, OSB sheets or plywood. There are basic requirements that the sheathing must meet:

• strength and reliability;
• ability to withstand the weight of a person and snow cover;
• no cracks, bumps or protruding nails.

To create a soft roof, continuous sheathing is considered the ideal option. The stages of its creation will be as follows:

1. To construct the first layer use wooden blocks with a section of 50x50 mm or boards 25x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters in increments of 200–300 mm.

   A solid base for flexible tiles is laid on a sparse sheathing made in increments of 200–300 mm

2. The second layer is laid with plywood, OSB or the same boards, located at a distance of 3–5 mm from each other. The thickness of the solid base elements depends on the installation pitch of the rafters and is determined using special tables. All wood lumber must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations. To fasten sheets or boards, use self-tapping screws or rough nails, which are installed in increments of 15–20 cm.

   OSB boards are attached to the bottom sheathing slats with nails or self-tapping screws

Table: dependence of the thickness of the sheathing on the pitch of the rafters

The sheet material is fastened with its wide side parallel to the eaves overhang and installed with overlapping joints like brickwork.

Sheathing pitch for flexible tiles

The pitch between the sheathing boards should be 3–5 mm, and between sheet materials- about 3 mm

If the sheathing is made from edged boards, the step should be 3–5 mm. Under the influence of moisture and temperature, the boards will expand, and if you do not make a gap between them, they will bend over and damage the roofing material.

Video: sheathing for soft tiles

Counter-lattice for flexible tiles

A feature of bituminous materials is their complete airtightness if the coating is sealed correctly. If there is no gap between the solid base and the insulation, condensation will not be able to escape from the roofing pie. This will lead to the accumulation of moisture and its entry into the insulation, causing its properties to noticeably deteriorate.

Because of this feature of flexible tiles, it is necessary to install a counter-batten in order to be able to create a ventilation gap. It is mounted on the rafters, a sparse sheathing is placed on top of it, and only then a solid one. To create a counter-lattice, bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm are used.

The counter-lattice is one of the most important elements of the roofing pie and is responsible for creating a ventilation gap

When the counter-lattice is installed under the valleys, the bars are loosely applied to the flooring at a distance of about 10 cm from each other. This solution makes it possible to ensure normal drainage of water, otherwise the valleys will be poorly ventilated, since condensate will not be able to be removed normally through the eaves.

Roof rafters made of soft tiles

For soft tiles, a layered or hanging tile can be constructed rafter system. Installation is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparatory work. Errors in the height of the walls that were made during masonry are eliminated. The difference can be no more than 1–2 cm. brick house defects are eliminated using mortar, and on wood - using beams and slats.
2. Installation of the Mauerlat. First, a layer of roofing material or other insulating material is laid, and then the Mauerlat. Thus, the surface of a wooden beam is protected from the penetration of moisture from concrete or brickwork. To fasten the Mauerlat, threaded rods, pre-embedded in the masonry, anchor bolts or staples are used.

   Concrete or brick surfaces are leveled using a solution, a layer of roofing felt is laid on them, and then the Mauerlat is installed

3. Installation of the bed. A transverse beam connecting the middles of the short sides of the house frame is attached to the internal walls, and its horizontalness is checked.
4. Installation vertical racks and run. The racks are installed on the bench, having previously secured them with struts. A ridge girder is attached to them on top. Before final fixation, carefully check the verticality of all racks and the position of the ridge - it must lie horizontally and pass strictly in the middle of the roof.
   

   During installation ridge girder it is necessary to ensure its horizontal position strictly in the middle of the roof

5. Manufacturing roof trusses. If there are no deviations in the dimensions of the building, the rafter legs are made according to the template. First, the outer elements are mounted, a cord is pulled between them and the remaining trusses are installed. Rafters are installed under flexible tiles in increments of 60 to 200 cm. Anchor bolts and wire are used to fix the racks. Then the “fillies” are attached - the elements that support the eaves overhang. Their length should be no more than 600 mm.

   If there are no deviations in the dimensions of the building frame in the corners and horizontally, the rafter legs are made according to a single template

Connection device

In order for the material to bend more smoothly at the junction points, a triangular-shaped strip is nailed onto them. To do this, take a regular plinth or a beam cut in half. The elements of the tiles that are adjacent to the wall are brought over the edges of the slats. Strips 50–60 cm wide are made from the valley carpet and laid on top of the tiles. To ensure tightness, the strips must be lubricated with bitumen mastic. They should extend onto the wall by at least 300 mm, and in regions with snowy winters - up to 400–500 mm. The upper edge is inserted into the groove and pressed against the apron, after which the structure is fixed and sealed.

Flexible tiles are placed on a vertical surface through a triangular strip and secured in the upper part with a special abutment strip

At the junctions with brick pipes A pattern is made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal. The face pattern is installed on top of the strips of ordinary tiles. After this, the side and back patterns are installed, which are inserted under the shingles. A gutter is made on the sides and back of the pipe, and for those shingles that fit the pipe, top corners trimmed, which will ensure reliable drainage of water. The lower part of the elements is coated with mastic and securely fixed.

Arrangement of pass-through elements

In order to properly seal the places where ventilation pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to install passage elements. They are fastened with nails, and for better fixation they are additionally lubricated with bitumen mastic, after which ordinary elements are laid on them. Then the roof outlet is put on the passage element.

In regions with frosty and snowy winters, insulated ventilation outlets are used. Put caps on sewer pipes It is not recommended, since when they freeze, traction will greatly deteriorate. You can use caps without internal cuts; they not only decorate the appearance of the structure, but also prevent leaves and sediment from getting inside.

Pass-through elements allow you to seal the roof where ventilation pipes pass

Video: installation of a pass-through element

Ridge installation

Special flexible tiles are laid on the ridge. Each sheet has perforations along which it is divided into three parts. After this, the protective film is removed and the element is glued to the ridge. One side of it is fixed with nails (there should be 4 of them), and the next tile covers the fastening site. The overlap should be about 50 mm.

The ridge tile sheet is divided into three parts, which are laid with an overlap of 5 cm

Installation of flexible tiles is not very difficult, so you can do this work yourself. If you are a beginner, you must first study the installation technology, evaluate your strengths, and only then decide whether you can do such work yourself. Particular attention should be paid to creating a high-quality and even base, since not only the appearance, but also the service life of flexible tiles depends on this.

The technology for laying soft tiles is quite simple and does not cause any particular difficulties, and if you follow the instructions and also have some construction skills, it is quite possible to install bitumen shingles yourself. Proper installation of such a covering is not only excellent protection of the home from adverse weather conditions, but also an excellent appearance of the roof itself.

Weather

According to the instructions, it is recommended to lay flexible tiles in the warm, dry season, at a temperature of at least +5ºС, but it is better still +10ºС. This is necessary so that, under the influence of heat, the sheets of bitumen shingles better stick together with each other and with the base, forming an almost monolithic coating layer. At low temperatures, the sheets become fragile and bend poorly, so winter is not the best time to work with this type of coating, but if you plan to lay bitumen shingles in winter and the air temperature is less than +5ºС, then you must keep the material at room temperature for 24 hours and use a construction material a hair dryer for heating the tiles and bitumen mastic for better sealing of the layers. It is better to produce in winter partial renovation roofing, and not a full installation on the entire surface of the roof, especially if laying flexible tiles with your own hands is done for the first time.

Roof slope

It is advisable to install flexible tiles on roofs with minimum slope 12º-18º. If the slope is less or the roof is flat, then it is better to choose a different type of covering, since the inevitable stagnation of water will lead to rapid deterioration of the roof.

The main stages of laying soft tiles

Base, ventilation

Any type of roof installation begins with preparing the base. A solid solid base is used as a base for laying bitumen. It must be smooth and solid, since the slightest irregularities will inevitably affect the appearance of the roof. The ideal coating option is considered OSB board -3.
A prerequisite for the long service life of a soft roof is proper ventilation according to the “bottom-up” principle. At the bottom of the ramp are made ventilation holes, through which air enters, and it is drawn out through the so-called ridge vents or aerators.

Features of laying the lining layer

Installation of soft tiles is carried out on a special underlay carpet, preferably from the same manufacturer as the tiles. If the angle of inclination of the roof is minimal, i.e. 12º-18º, then the underlayment carpet must be laid over the entire surface of the roof. The underlayment layer begins to be attached from the lowest point of the roof, parallel to the eaves line. The layers are superimposed on each other: the top layer should overlap the bottom layer by 20 cm, the edges are coated with glue and nailed with nails with wide heads. Pay attention to good carpet tension! If the roof slope is more than 20º, you can lay the lining only on the eaves overhangs, ridges, at the junction of the slopes (valley), around the pipes, i.e. on the “ problem areas", where there is a high probability of leakage. In this case, the carpet can also be mounted vertically. Also, vertical carpet fastening can be used for roofs with steep slopes. In any case, before installing the lining layer, it is better to coat the base with bitumen mastic. Then, when the carpet is heated with a hairdryer, the lining adheres perfectly to the base and a continuous covering is obtained. The correct foundation and a well-laid underlayment affect both the appearance of the roof and its protective functions. It is not recommended to use a hydrobarrier or roofing material as a lining material.

Protecting the "edges" of the roof

For water drainage and protection wooden elements metal eaves strips are installed along the roof overhang on top of the lining. They should be fastened with nails in a checkerboard pattern and overlapped by 5 cm. The end strips are attached in the same way. These elements strengthen the overhangs, protect the wooden covering from precipitation, increase wind resistance and give a finished appearance.

Marking for flexible tiles

If laying soft tiles is the first time, it is better to make preliminary markings to avoid curvature of the rows. Tapping is done with a cord on horizontal and vertical lines in increments of 0.8 and 1 m, respectively. This marking will help to align the rows horizontally and vertically, as well as correct distortions if some object is built into the roof: a pipe, a window. You cannot fasten the tiles strictly along these lines! Just follow the direction!

It is necessary to mix several packages of tiles so that the roof covering looks uniform, since different batches may have different shades that cannot be immediately noticed. First, 1.5-2 cm from the edge of the eaves strip, self-adhesive eaves tiles are attached joint to joint; in addition, they are nailed with nails with wide heads. You can take ordinary ordinary tiles and cut off the protruding parts, the so-called petals. The first row begins to be fastened from the center of the slope towards the ends of the roof in both directions. If you are installing flexible tiles yourself for the first time, then you should follow the sequence of actions:

• Remove the film from the bottom of the sheet (after this you cannot stack the tiles on top of each other).
• Place the shingles on the surface and secure with four nails along the “notches” at least 2 cm from the edge. If the roof slope is large, then you need to fasten it with six nails - drive two along the edges of the sheet for additional fixation.
• We place the next row on the previous one so that the “petals” of the top sheet are located on the notches of the previous row and form a continuous straight line with them.

Registration of “problem” areas

• Having reached the end strip, the soft tiles need to be cut flush with the strip and sealed with bitumen sealant or glue to a width of about 10 cm.
• When laying in valleys, the tiles are laid overlapping on the adjacent slope and cut to one line, additionally heated with a hairdryer and glued with bitumen glue.
• Around pipes, antenna outlets and where soft tiles touch vertical surfaces You should use a metal apron and be sure to additionally coat the seams with bitumen sealant.

Horse

Eaves tiles, divided into three parts, are attached to the roof ridge. Each part is bent at the desired angle. You can start laying from any side of the ridge. The sheet is glued to the ridge with the self-adhesive side and nailed with four nails. The next (top) tile must be overlapped with the bottom tile by 5 cm to overlap the nails. The outer sheets are glued.
That's it, the roof is ready!
But most questions arise during the work process, so it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the video materials on installing flexible tiles.