Our habit of solving small everyday problems on our own is ineradicable. And it’s not even about saving money, although they are never superfluous. There is something very attractive and understandable about living in an interior that is not only lovingly conceived, but also independently realized.

But do-it-yourself repairs of modern plumbing fixtures can be complicated by the variety of designs of the same faucets. Today we will tell you how to disassemble ball mixer and repair it. This will help you avoid resorting to the help of specialists if the problem can be fixed on your own.

Until recently, there was no alternative to a valve mixer. And so, with the advent of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch, users were faced with a choice: which faucet to prefer? It turned out that the ball design is in high demand. This is explained by the remarkable performance characteristics of this type of mixers.

Another undoubted advantage of the ball mixer is its modern and attractive appearance: it can easily fit into any interior

The new faucet is very convenient to use. You don't have to twist anything to set the required temperature and water pressure. Simply put the lever in the desired position. This elementary procedure is performed automatically over time.

Those who have long preferred this design know roughly what position the rotary handle should be in so that both the pressure and temperature of the water are as comfortable as possible for a variety of purposes. It is useful for beginners to know that the water pressure is adjusted by moving the handle up and down, and the temperature – left and right.

The ball mixer is very functional: it can be easily adjusted to the pressure you need and the required temperature with one movement of the hand

In addition, it is believed that a more reliable ball mixer cannot be found.

Single lever mixer with ball switch

Alas, modern faucets, like their valves, fail from time to time. After all, their production uses the same materials: metal, rubber and plastic, which can wear out during operation or under the influence of external factors.

To repair a ball valve, you need to understand its structure and be able to dismantle it if necessary. The ball device includes:

• rotary handle; At its core, it is a lever, which is sometimes called a “butterfly”.
• stock; The rod seal is adjusted using a nut and washer, which are also included in the package.
• housing with nut; The ball cartridge and rod are located inside this housing.
• ball cartridge; It is fixed using rubber saddles.

A ball cartridge is a non-separable element that has three holes: for incoming cold and hot water and for removing mixed water of the required temperature and pressure from the device.

The operating algorithm for a crane of this design is quite simple:

• when the lever is lifted, the ball begins to rotate;
• the holes on the ball cartridge begin to align with similar holes in the seats;
• Depending on the area of ​​coincidence of these holes, the jet pressure changes.

If you handle the mixer carefully, without applying excessive force where it is not needed, products of this design can serve without fail for a long time. However, the following breakdowns can be considered typical for them:

• When the lever is in the blocking position, the flow of water from the tap does not stop.
• A faulty ball mixer provides too much weak pressure water, despite the fact that the pressure in the water supply system of your home has not dropped, which can be checked by opening other taps.
• The regulation of the water temperature in the mixers has been disrupted: it is impossible to achieve the required parameters, since the mixing of hot and cold flows occurs in a chaotic manner.

A fairly common malfunction of a ball mixer is manifested by water leakage when the device itself is in the blocking position

Before you begin repairs, you should understand the cause of the malfunction, which manifested itself in one of the ways listed above.

Types of faults that occur

There is space between the ball cartridge and the rubber seats that secure this element. Its clogging is the most common cause of ball valve failure. Even a seemingly insignificant speck can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connection. As a result, the rubber seat may become deformed, causing the ball mount to become unusable.

Another frequently occurring breakdown is a clogged shutter. As such, repairs are not needed in this case. This problem can be solved by simply cleaning the plumbing fixture. True, for this the crane will have to be disassembled. But then, when you collect it, everything will be in order again.

Water may leak from the rotary knob cap. In this case, the connection should be tightened more tightly. If the flow of water stopped, then the reason for it was hidden precisely in a loose connection.

A clogged aerator leads to insufficient water pressure flowing from the faucet spout; this problem can be corrected by simply cleaning the aerator itself or replacing it.

The easiest way to solve the problem is with a clogged aerator. It is this that can become an obstacle to creating normal water pressure. If you remove the aerator and try to run water without it, then the change in pressure will make it clear whether the aerator was the cause of the malfunction. The aerator can be washed and replaced. Or you can simply replace it with a new one, as is done in the event of a complete failure of this part.

O-rings can also wear out. In this case, water may leak from underneath the faucet base. This malfunction is eliminated by replacing failed seals. Before starting work, turn off the water supply, then remove the mixer, disconnecting it from the inlets and unscrewing the nut that secures it. A worn gasket is replaced with a product of the same diameter. If the gasket is selected correctly, it will be installed in place with force. All that remains is to assemble the crane.

The only breakdown in which the mixer has to be completely replaced is a crack in its body: even if the ball switch is mechanically damaged, only this element can be replaced

The situation is worse if the ball cartridge itself is broken. It may crack, and, alas, then it cannot be repaired. You will simply have to replace it with a new one. You will have to act in exactly the same way in case of mechanical damage to the mixer body. There's no point in repairing it. It’s easier to buy and install a new faucet. If you are unable to immediately replace the faucet, you can use a sealant that will temporarily stop the leak, but remember that the device needs to be replaced. And the sooner the better.

Problems especially often arise due to increased hardness of the water circulating in your water supply system. Moreover, the type of mixer you use does not really matter. In order not to change faucets endlessly, you should install a filter that purifies the water. Even a rough cleaning device can block those particles that cause major breakdowns of plumbing fixtures.

Let's start repair work

Let's assume that all precautions have been taken, but still repairing the ball valve of your mixer is inevitable. To repair a ball mixer, you can, of course, invite a plumber. But it is better to try to do this work yourself. There is nothing super complicated about it. Just listen to our advice.

For execution repair work You will need tools, which you must prepare in advance so that they are at hand.

No special tools are required to carry out repair work on a faulty ball mixer: all these items are necessarily present in the arsenal of any home craftsman

• adjustable wrench;
• hex wrench of suitable size;
• a screwdriver that can be used, if necessary, like a thin knitting needle;
• pliers;
• flashlight.

First you need to turn off the supply of hot and cold water, otherwise your manipulations with plumbing fixtures may lead to a flood. Do not forget that there may be residual water in the tap, which should also be drained. Before starting work, you need to cover the sink with a rag. This measure will protect it from possible damage.

Now you can begin dismantling the mixer.

On initial stage repair work, the decorative plug with the image of hot and cold water should be removed; it blocks access to the screw that secures the lever

The sequence of work in this case is as follows:

• There should be a decorative plug on the mixer body that will have to be removed.
• Under the plug there is a hole through which you can get to the screw holding the faucet lever. This screw must be unscrewed.
• The lever is now free and can be removed. If the faucet has been installed for a long time and no one has unscrewed it, significant force may be required at this stage. It is important to act carefully and not damage anything.
• So, we now have access to the dome of the crane and the eccentric located underneath it, made of plastic. Both parts need to be removed. Below them is a ball cartridge. All contaminants that may be found during the dismantling process must be carefully removed.
• The ball switch is removed from the mixer. It must be examined from all sides. As mentioned earlier, if damage is detected on this one, it should be replaced with a new one. Covering cracks on the ball with sealant does not make sense.
• We examine rubber seals. They may lose elasticity or simply wear out. New seals must be installed in place of worn-out seals. It is also better to replace the elements that secure the ball switch. If they have worked for a long time, then this should be done even just for preventive purposes.

Plumbing gaskets are consumables: they often fail and have to be replaced; If you have to buy a new pad, take the old one with you so you don't get the wrong size

All that remains is to assemble the mixer. This must be done in reverse order.

You can get more information about repairs from this video:

If you did everything correctly, the mixer should now work properly again. However, the leak may be located under the spout, which is also called a spout or gander. Then you will have to remove the spout and replace the old o-rings with new ones.

Particular attention should be paid to the mixer when you have an old water supply system in your house. In this case, particles of rust and other contaminants may clog the openings in the switch through which hot and cold water flow. These blockages can be cleaned with a cloth or your hands. This procedure should be performed periodically, even just for preventive purposes.

Another problem that may bother owners of ball valves is the annoying noise that occurs when turning on the water. It occurs due to vibration created by air and water currents. Due to its effect on rubber gaskets, they can also begin to vibrate. To avoid this effect, you can reduce the water pressure, install a filter, or achieve a tighter fit. rubber gaskets.

Externally strong new mixer it looks no worse than any other model, but such products rarely last more than a year; You can distinguish them by weight: silumin is very light

The service life of a ball mixer is influenced not only by external factors, but also by the material from which the tap itself is made. There are often cheap models on sale that are made from silumin, an alloy of silicon and aluminum. They are short-lived, but are great for training those who like to do everything with their own hands. And for a long and trouble-free service, it is better to choose a more expensive, but also reliable model.

How to repair a ball faucet in the bathroom

This type of bathroom faucet malfunction, which we want to tell you about, occurs quite often. Therefore, we decided to consider this type of repair of a ball faucet in the bathroom with our own hands in this article. So, we are trying to switch the water from the faucet spout to the shower, but the switch lever switches spontaneously. It turns out that water flows normally from the spout, but it is impossible to supply it to the shower.

Ball mixers are often used in the bathroom; they can also be repaired independently; As a rule, such repairs are limited to replacing the upper or lower gasket

We will try to find the cause of the problem ourselves. In this case, you will have to act at random, since there may be several reasons for such a malfunction.

The initial sequence of actions is as follows:

• unscrew union nut, and then remove the hose;
• remove the top gasket, first prying it up with a thin knitting needle;
• replace the just removed gasket with a new one, moistening it with water before installation;
• We assemble the mixer, bringing it to its original working position.

If the cause of the failure was the upper gasket, then replacing it will eliminate the problem. If we made a mistake, then it’s okay: gaskets are consumables, they must be replaced sooner or later anyway.

Shower still not working? Then we will deal with the bottom gasket.

For this:

• turn off hot and cold water;
• remove the flexible hose;
• after this comes the turn of the adapter, spout and shift lever: we must remove them too;
• now you have access to the eccentric, which also needs to be removed;
• the next one should be the spool: we also dismantle it;
• and here is the lower gasket ring, remove it and replace it with a new one;
• The mixer is assembled in the reverse order of dismantling.

Before you go to the store for new gaskets, be sure to check if you have a supply of these yourself. Supplies. Typically, several spare products of this type are included with the mixer. If there are no gaskets or they are lost, then you can make them yourself, using hard rubber 3-4 mm thick for this purpose.

This video will help you repair the faucet correctly and not forget anything:

In home plumbing, ball mixers began to be used relatively recently. However, the popularity of this plumbing equipment is growing every day. This can be easily explained by convenience and ease of use. Problems with these faucets are quite rare. And the service life is very long. With faucets of this design you can seriously save on water. Despite its high reliability, problems still occur with this plumbing device in Russian conditions, but everything can be resolved. Let's look at how these faucets work, what can happen to them, and how to repair them.

Ball mixer: the main invention for plumbing

Despite the fact that the ball mixer has been in operation in our country for some two decades, this design was developed a very long time ago. It was created by engineer Alex Manukyan. In 1929, Manukyan created a small company that manufactured various parts for the Chrysler and Ford automobile plants. In 1940 from small company this company is already turning into large production with a turnover of millions of dollars.

In 1940, a certain inventor from California approached Manukyan and offered to purchase the right to produce a revolutionary crane. The innovation was that instead of the traditional two taps, one was used for hot and cold water. Using it, it was possible to simultaneously adjust both pressure and temperature. The innovation was poorly received and they even laughed at the inventor. But Manukyan looked at one small perspective that everyone else simply missed. The design of the ball mixer is such that it has only one moving element. There are no gaskets or parts subject to rapid wear.

After some time it became clear that, despite the lack of gaskets, the mixer was working fully. And now Alex Manukyan, together with experienced engineers, begins work on finalizing the design. In 1954, the work was completed and a new revolutionary product was released, which is now installed in most bathrooms. By the way, Manukyan made a huge fortune for himself from this.

Advantages of ball mixers

Ten years ago, there were no alternatives to valve devices in the plumbing market. And when the ball mixer appeared, many were faced with a choice - what to install in the bathroom? Sales show that in great demand uses a design with a ball valve. This can be easily explained by the advantages and high performance characteristics of the device. Also, experts in plumbing equipment say that now you can’t find anything on sale that would be more reliable.

Ball bath faucets turned out to be very convenient to use. You no longer need to twist anything to set optimal temperature water and its pressure. To do this, simply set the lever to the desired position. Over time, this becomes almost automatic.

Those who have been using such devices for a long time already know where the handle should be for the appropriate temperature and pressure. And for those who are just planning to install such a device, it is useful to know that the pressure can be adjusted by moving the control handle up or down. The temperature is adjusted by turning to the right or left.

Design of mechanisms with a ball valve

Modern plumbing fixtures, namely ball mixers, like their valve relatives, despite their advanced technology, sometimes fail. There is nothing unusual about this. They are made from identical materials. It's the same metal, the same rubber and plastic. Parts are subject to wear during use. Repairing a ball mixer is not difficult. But in order for everything to work out, you need to understand the device and be able to remove it, if necessary.

So, the device consists of several elements. This is a rotary handle, or rather a lever. There is also a rod, and its seal is adjusted using the included washer and nut. There is a valve body and a nut. The body contains a ball cartridge along with a rod.

This cartridge is a solid, non-separable element. It has three holes. They are designed for cold, hot water, as well as mixed water of the required temperature and pressure.

Operating principle

The mixer operates according to a specific algorithm. When the lever is lifted, the ball rotates. Meanwhile, the holes in the cartridge line up with the holes in the seats. Depending on the area of ​​the holes as a result, the water temperature and its pressure change.

Typical faults

With careful use, without applying any special effort to the device, the product can serve without breakdowns for a long time. However, more often these cranes are operated differently and fail.

Among typical faults one can identify a leak when the lever is in a locked position, low pressure when normal level pressure in the water supply. Regulations are also often violated. It is impossible to adjust the water to the desired temperature, since mixing is carried out chaotically. Before repairing ball bathroom faucets, you need to determine the cause of the problem.

Types of breakdowns

The ball cartridge is fixed in the housing using rubber seats. Between these elements there is free space. If it becomes clogged, it will cause a malfunction. Even a small speck is enough to break the seal. As a result, the rubber seat becomes deformed. The ball mount fails.

Also, one of the most common troubles is a blockage in the shutter. In this case, you can even do without repairs, and the problem can be solved with simple cleaning. But to do this you will have to disassemble the tap. But after assembly, everything will fall into place again and the device will work like new.

Often, all breakdowns occur due to water flowing in the pipes. She's very tough. In this case, it does not depend at all on what type. In order not to change plumbing fixtures frequently, experts recommend installing filter elements. Another nuisance is water that flows from under the rotary handle. Here it is enough to tighten the connection.

How's the shutter?

The easiest way to solve the problem is if the valve is clogged. It can be an obstacle to the normal supply of water with powerful pressure. First you need to dismantle the aerator. Then water is released without this element. By the way the pressure changes, it will be clear whether the aerator is the cause of the breakdown. To restore the operation of the faucet, simply clean and rinse the device in water, and then reinstall it. But more often the aerator is replaced.

If water is leaking from underneath the faucet base

This malfunction can be eliminated. Before you begin repairing ball mixers with your own hands, you first need to turn off the water. Then the mixer is dismantled and disconnected. Also unscrew the fixing nut.

A worn gasket must be replaced with the same one, only a new one. If it is selected correctly, then you will need to apply a little force to install it.

If the cartridge breaks

Here the situation is worse. These elements may crack. But the problem is that these products cannot be repaired. They are replaced with new ones. Do the same if there is damage to the device body. If it is not possible to quickly replace the mixer ball switch, you can use sealant. But this is only a temporary solution to the problem.

Repair features

So, let's look at what needs to be done if repairs are unavoidable. Repairing the device is quite simple - anyone can handle it House master. For work you will need a standard set of tools:

• Adjustable wrench.
• Hexagons.
• Screwdriver or thin knitting needle.
• Flashlight.

First of all, turn off the water. Next, dismantling is carried out. There is a plug on the device body. She is also being removed. Under this plug there is a hole through which you can access the screw that holds the lever in place. This screw should be unscrewed. Now you can remove the lever. If the device has been standing for a long time and the ball mixer has not been disassembled, some effort may be required.

Now there is access to the dome part of the product and plastic eccentrics. These parts are also removed. The cartridge will be installed under them. All dirt must be carefully removed. Next, the mixer switch is removed from the housing. It should be carefully examined from all sides. If there is damage, the cartridge must be replaced.

Next, check the rubber sealing elements. If their elasticity is reduced or lost, then the parts are replaced with new ones. The seals on which the switch is installed are also replaced (for prevention).

Next, it remains to install all the parts in place and assemble the structure in the reverse order. After this, the product should work normally again. But there can also be a leak under the tap. In this case, it is removed and the seals under the drain are replaced.

Shower switch repair

This malfunction occurs quite often. When you try to turn on the water from the spout into the shower hose, the lever switches independently. Liquid flows from the spout and cannot be supplied to the shower. To find the causes, unscrew and dismantle the hose. Then remove the top gasket. You may need to pry it up with a thin knitting needle. The gasket is replaced with a new one. The mixer is assembled and checked.

If the device still does not work, then turn off the water again and remove the shower hose. Then remove the adapter, spout and lever. Now remove the eccentric and spool. Next, access to the lower gasket ring opens. It should be replaced. Next, the device is assembled and tested. Before you go to the store for supplies, you should see if you have these gaskets at home. Often several seals are included with the device. If you still don’t have the materials, you can make them yourself. Hard rubber 3-4 millimeters thick is suitable.

Conclusion

Here's how to repair a ball mixer - there is nothing complicated about this task. Repair involves replacing consumables and cartridges. Any home craftsman can handle this.

Of all the plumbing fixtures and devices installed in an apartment or house, the most frequently used category is probably the kitchen faucet. Cooking food, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, taking water for drinking or boiling, carrying wet cleaning in the kitchen, a lot of other small household needs - and all this falls on him. It is not surprising that sooner or later there comes a time when the intended operational resources of even the highest quality mixer are exhausted, and certain problems appear in its operation. The likelihood of such a situation will be even higher if at one time, for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of dubious quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition of the water pipes does not stand up to criticism.

A malfunction immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate the normal functioning of the kitchen. What to do - call a plumber or run out and buy a new appliance? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but first you can try to repair the faucet in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the overwhelming majority of the most common faults can be repaired. And in the process of restoring the mixer itself, there are usually no such operations high level difficulties that they would be inaccessible for the average apartment owner to perform independently.

What are the symptoms of mixer malfunctions?

What obvious and not so obvious signs will tell the owner that the condition kitchen faucet should we get serious?

• There are always traces of dampness under the kitchen sink, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since they are often not noticed immediately, and the “signal” often comes from neighbors below who have a wet spot on their stream.

Dampness under the sink is a clear sign of some kind of malfunction

Of course, more likely the reason lies in a malfunction of the drainage system or poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.

How to fix kitchen sink drainage problems?

Emergency situations in the drainage system - enough common phenomenon, especially in the kitchen. Read what to do if it leaks in a special publication on our portal.

However, if the siphon is absolutely dry, and the gaps around the perimeter of the sink are properly sealed, then you need to look for leaks in the water supply - on the hoses themselves, at the point of their connection with the water pipes, or at the entrance to the mixer itself. Another possible reason is a poor fit or misalignment of the sealing gasket between the faucet and the sink.

• Continuous drops or trickle of water from from liva when the mixer itself is in the “closed” position. This is a clear sign wear of seals or ceramic parts of the valve part.
• A permanent puddle of water near the faucet body. Possible causes are cracks in the body or wear of the O-rings in the rotary spout block.
• Water constantly, in any position of the mixer, leaks from under the valves or the adjusting lever. This may be a consequence of wear of the seals on the axle-box valves, insufficient tightening of the threaded couplings (nuts), cracks in the housing, or failure of the cartridge.
• The rotation of the valves or the movement of the lever-handle is difficult, uneven, and difficulties arise in accurately adjusting the pressure and temperature of the water. This can be caused by the formation of limescale, the ingress of solid particles into rubbing parts, wear of mechanical components or their complete failure.
• Insufficient pressure, when everyone the fact that at other water collection points in the apartment (house) there is no such problem. The reasons may be a clogged aerator nozzle, a decrease in the clearance of the internal channels of the mixer, pinched gaskets on the supply lines, poor passage of pipes or flexible hoses.
• Similar reasons can cause strong noise or vibration with seemingly normal water pressure.

The procedure and features of self-troubleshooting techniques, depending on the type of mixer, can vary significantly. It is important to note the following - the vast majority of standard models can be repaired. However, if complex modern device with thermostatic regulation or even with electronic touch control, it is still not recommended to take the liberty of disassembling and searching for the causes of abnormal operation, especially when the mixer is still under warranty. In this situation, it would still be wiser to find a truly qualified specialist (most plumbers in advertisements are also in this matter hardly help), or contact customer service.

The author expresses the hope that this publication will help non-specialists understand the issues of designing and repairing a mixer, assess their strengths and accept correct solution about the possibility independent conduct works

Find out how to solve the problems of a cramped bathroom from a new article on our portal.

Problems under the sink

As noted above, constant dampness or puddles under the sink may be a consequence of the emergency condition of the supply from the water pipes to the mixer.

To check the correctness of this assumption, it is necessary to close the mixer and allow the water to flow freely from the sink, so that there is no excess pressure in the siphon. There should be no moisture on the countertop around the sink. Then take a rag and wipe the siphon, supply hoses, and all connecting units - fittings, nuts, couplings dry. After a few minutes it will be possible to visually and to the touch check whether there are signs of water escaping under pressure in the water supply network.

• Particular attention should be paid to the places where hoses are connected to the water supply - leaks often occur here due to corrosion of the edge of the threaded end of an old steel pipe.

The weak point is the connection of the flexible line with old steel pipes

If this is really the case, then the best choice would be to reconstruct the home water supply network - replacing it with polypropylene or metal plastic. But this is a large-scale undertaking, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, you need to bring this connecting node into relative order.

By the way, the figure above shows a fundamentally incorrect connection of the flexible hose with steel pipe. “Packaging” using FUM tape or tow is completely unnecessary. The hose nut must have a gasket that, when tightly fitted to the end of the pipe, completely prevents water from escaping. But winding can even seriously interfere with the normal sealing of this connection.

It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightened tightly and whether it is loose. However, great efforts should not be made when tightening it - you can squeeze the gasket, and the leak will become even worse.

If tightening does not help, close the general water supply tap to the apartment, unscrew the nut completely, drain the remaining water into a substitute basin and inspect the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven and corroded, then there will not be a good seal with the hose. In this case, the best solution is to pack a factory-made extension adapter onto the thread (naturally, using FUM, or better yet, tow with a special paste like “Unipac”), the edge of which will ideally fit to the hose gasket.

The sealing material is tightly wound around the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is screwed on and tightened tightly with an open-end or gas wrench. Now you can reconnect the hose, tighten the nut with moderate force, open the water supply and check for leaks. Most likely, everything will be fine.

• The second option is that everything is dry at the connections, but you can clearly feel the appearance of water on the hose braid. Cause pretty widespread– alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. It happens that the rubber tube located inside the braid breaks, and sometimes the metal ends give rise to cracks, especially if they are made of silumin.

In this case, you should not wait for the problem to develop, but immediately change the eyeliner to a new one. A small leak can suddenly turn into a complete rupture of the hose with all the understandable catastrophic consequences.

To replace the liner, most likely, you will have to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and carefully tighten the fittings of the new ones into nests located on the lower end of the device body without dismantling it is extremely difficult, and in many models, simply impossible.

To dismantle the mixer, of course, first turn off the cold and hot water supply taps, release the pressure, then disconnect both flexible hoses from the pipes. Further actions depend on the type of faucet mounting. It's not difficult to figure this out.

— A very common fastening scheme is with studs (one or two), which are screwed into the body from the bottom of the mixer, and nuts that press a horseshoe-shaped plate with a rubber or polymer lining to the underside of the sink.

It is necessary to loosen and twist the nuts from the studs (sometimes during dismantling the stud itself is unscrewed - no big deal), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10mm wrench is usually used, but you need to be prepared for the fact that in practice you will find 11mm or even 9mm nuts.

After removing the mixer, you can immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes leakage from the surface of the sink down through the mounting hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one (it is shown with an arrow in the picture).

The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But you don’t have to rely on them too much when dismantling - to unscrew the fastener you will still need force with a wrench. You can use a screwdriver when reassembling the mixer - this will make it easier to fix the studs themselves into the body from the mixer.

— Another type of fastening - the lower part of the mixer itself has a cylindrical threaded part, which is inserted into the mounting hole of the sink, and then a powerful nut is screwed from below, securely fixing the device.

By the way, this design of the mixer sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even dismantling the device itself. But this will not be easy to accomplish.

Imagine working in a very cramped space - under kitchen sink, where it is almost impossible to take a comfortable position to wind the tool and apply sufficient force. And if there was also a leak at the place where the hoses were connected, then you can often find a generally sad picture when all the nuts are covered with a layer of oxides and limescale, and do not immediately yield to the force of the wrench.

Therefore, many craftsmen advise removing the sink to dismantle and reinstall the kitchen faucet. This is usually not difficult - just remember to disconnect corrugated pipe drain from the sewer pipe.

Another “advantage” of this approach is that it becomes possible to “refresh” the seal between the sink and the countertop with a new sealant in order to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting downwards upon completion of the work. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be easier and much better.

Failed hoses cannot be repaired or restored in any way - only replacement! And when choosing a new eyeliner, there may be several options:

— The same, but only high-quality hoses in a flexible metal braid. Be sure to measure the required length so that they are not “tight”, but also do not hang with unnecessary loops. On a pair of hoses, the fittings for connecting to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate installation.

— A more reliable option is modern corrugated stainless steel hoses. They are tougher and somewhat more difficult to work with. But in terms of durability and reliability, they significantly benefit.

More reliable - corrugated stainless steel hoses

— Some artists prefer hard eyeliner made from metal-plastic pipes. For this, there are special fittings with fittings for transition to the corresponding pipe. You'll have to tinker a little longer, but you won't have to worry about this section in the future.

The procedure for reinstalling the mixer depends on its design.

— If it is fixed with studs, then the hoses are passed through the mounting hole of the sink, first a ring-shaped gasket is put on them, burying the joint between the mixer and the sink, and then the fittings are screwed into nests housings. It will be more convenient to tighten the short fitting first, and then the long one. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but still experts advise making a small winding on the thread - for reliability.

Then the studs are attached, the mixer is installed in the socket, and a gasket and a horseshoe-shaped strip are put on underneath. Now all that remains is to tighten the nuts tightly, while not forgetting to monitor the centering of the device in the center of the mounting hole and how the gasket ring fits.

— If the design of the mixer involves installing it on a nut, then it is better to insert and screw the fittings after fixing the device on the sink.

— The same is done if a rigid metal-plastic liner is planned. In this case, the curved fitting with the fitting is screwed in first, and then the straight one.

If everything is connected, then you can install the sink in place, not forgetting to seal the gap between it and the countertop.

Correct installation of the mixer is the key to its long-term operation

You can learn more about the nuances by reading a special publication on our portal.

And one more tip to finish with the “bottom” problems. If flexible supply hoses are preferred, then installing Aqua-Stop safety valves would be a very reasonable solution. They are packed onto water pipes (maybe instead of those same extension cords), and hoses are already connected to them.

Aqua-stop valve

If suddenly the hose Sun If it “explodes”, the valve will immediately shut off the water supply and prevent a flood. It's probably worth spending a little more to ensure safety.

Well, now let’s move on to considering problems with the mixer itself.

Problems from above - troubleshooting faucets

If it is obvious that the mixer is not working as required, water is oozing from it, it does not regulate pressure and temperature, the flywheels or lever turn with difficulty or, conversely, too easily, without blocking the current water, then problems should be looked for in the device itself.

General problems - water leaking through the faucet

The first reason is a housing defect.

— If the taps are working normally, but constant water leaks are visible on the body of the mixer, then with a high degree of probability we can assume that the body has cracked. It may be almost invisible to the eye, but for water it is enough. The reason may lie in the poor quality of the product, in the use of a fragile and corroding metal - silumin - in the manufacture, in excessive tightening of nuts or taps - this can cause the seat to burst, in mechanical damage to the device.

You need to carefully examine the body with a magnifying glass - this usually gives results. And if a crack is detected, then such a mixer can be considered practically unsuitable for further use. Sealing cracks with any compositions, including “ cold welding“If it does give a result, it will be for a very short time and without a guarantee that a more serious accident will not happen at a time when the owners are not at home. The best thing is not to take risks, but to go for a new mixer.

Choosing a kitchen faucet is a responsible task

If circumstances force you to purchase a new faucet, try not to repeat old mistakes and purchase a truly high-quality device. – in a special publication on our portal.

The second reason for leakage is wear of the seals in the rotating spout block.

Kitchen faucets, as a rule, always have a spout that can be rotated around a vertical axis. It is clear that with prolonged use, the seals gradually wear out and begin to leak pressurized water from the housing to the outside.

The solution to this problem is to replace the gaskets (cuffs). And the operating procedure depends on the mixer model.

The easiest way to do a remo nt cmowner who has The spout is located on top and is attached to the body with a nut.

Carefully, so as not to damage the outer coating, use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut, unscrew it, and the spout (or, as it is also called, the gander) is carefully gradually pulled out upward.

On the lower cylindrical part, in special grooves, there are rubber gasket rings - one or two (shown by red arrows). Above, directly under the nut, there is usually another ring - plastic (blue arrows). It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking element, and to a certain extent also performs the function of a “sliding bearing”.

If there were leaks in this part, and the spout itself was loose, then all the gaskets should be changed, since they are definitely worn out. The plastic split ring also needs to be replaced.

These spare parts are literally “penny”, and they are easy to find in any plumbing store. It is recommended to take the removed spout with you in order to accurately select gaskets of the required diameter.

Before reassembling the parts, they must be cleaned of any traces of limescale or rust. When placing the rubber rings on the spout shank, be careful not to tear them. To make work easier, you can lightly coat the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit snugly into their grooves. Place the split plastic ring and not difficult at all.

Once the new gaskets are on, the spout can be put back in place. But first you need to thoroughly wipe the inside of the seat with a soft cloth - there may be limescale or corrosion build-ups there. After cleaning, the shank is progressively, with a certain force, but carefully lowered into the socket until it stops, and then the nut is tightened. Then you can check the flow of the spout from left to right, and the absence of leaks when starting the water.

The situation is somewhat more complicated if the leakage comes from the joints of the swivel spout block in single-lever mixers (a typical leak location is shown by arrows in the figure).

Eliminating such a defect will require disassembling the entire device, which will be discussed below.

Problems in the mixer valve mechanism

The most common problems occur in the operation of the valves that regulate the flow of water into the mixing chamber. These breakdowns make themselves felt by leakage through valves or top part mixer, the inability to completely shut off the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, unsatisfactory mixing of hot and cold flows. Elimination of defects depends entirely on the design of the mixer - there are many options.

Repair work with a two-valve mixer

The figure shows a schematic diagram of the design of most two-valve mixers.

The housing (item 1) has three socket holes. A spout-gander (item 2), which we have already dealt with above, is installed in the central one. Left and right in nests faucet axle boxes (item 3) of one design or another are screwed in - they are responsible for supplying and shutting off water to the mixing chamber. Rotation is transmitted to them through decorative flywheels (item 4). These flywheels (“wings”) are fixed to the tap stem with a screw (pos. 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap (pos. 6), which also serves as a color indicator of cold or hot water.

If there are no cracks on the body of the mixers, then all the problems that arise are related to the fact or other defect of the axle-box crane. Some of them you can try to eliminate on your own, while others will require replacing this assembly.

First of all, you need to unscrew the valve axle boxes to determine their type.

To do this, first carefully pry off the protective plastic cap with a knife (for some models it may be on a thread - then it is carefully unscrewed).

Then use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw and, using a progressive movement, carefully remove the handwheel from the splines of the valve stem.

This allows access to hexagon of the valve, through which it will be possible to unscrew it from its socket. Sometimes behind the handwheel there is also a decorative cap that completely hides the tap. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually a hand is enough for this.

After this, the crane axle box itself is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench. Now it should be subject to revision.

Axle-box valves can be of two types - with a progressively moving rubber gasket-latch, or with ceramic plates. It is not difficult to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several revolutions of the flywheel from the closed position to the closed position, and the second is limited to one revolution, a half, and sometimes even a quarter.

And axle boxes of both types can be like common problems, and specific malfunctions. Let's look at it one by one.

• The figure shows a box with a rubber valve, which is given translational motion when the handwheel rotates. Moving down, the valve closes the channel of water flow from the supply to the mixing chamber. And vice versa, the higher the gasket rises, the larger the “window” for the passage of water.

The arrows show the most vulnerable places where leaks most often occur.

1 – wear of the gasket on the valve itself makes it impossible to completely shut off the flow of water into the spout. This usually happens either from prolonged use or when the water is heavily polluted. Solid particles do not allow the gasket to completely block the channel; the user, naturally, tries to tighten the tap even more, thereby pressing these solid inclusions into the rubber. Eventually, from from Faucet leak - constant leakage. The solution in this case is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.

The rubber band itself is held on the rod with a screw (for a screwdriver or, as in the picture, with a hex head), and is protected around the circumference from bursting by a metal shell.

— It is necessary to unscrew the locking screw.

— Then the rubber gasket is pryed off with a thin screwdriver or knife and removed from the shell.

— A new gasket purchased according to the sample is installed in place and secured with a screw.

— After this, you can install the crane axle box in place.

2 – wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to water leakage through the threaded connection of the mixer body and the faucet box at high pressure of open water. This happens infrequently, but it can be eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ring. Etc There is no need to listen to anyone, and in no case should you “pack” the tap with FUM tape or tow - most often this extreme leads to the fact that the nest is damaged T t crack, and after that the entire mixer can only be thrown away.

3 and 4– wear of the internal seals of the valve axle box. This is accompanied by water leakage in the area of ​​the rod, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanism of the crane usually suffers - it begins to jam, it is difficult to turn, etc. Optimal output – complete replacement crane axle box. There are, of course, certain restoration technologies - packing a new oil seal, boring and lapping the screw gear. However, this, firstly, is not possible on all models, and secondly, even the highest quality crane axle boxes are not so expensive to resort to such complex restoration work.

Flaw 2 is equally inherent in axle boxes with a ceramic plate valve, which will now be discussed.

• Axleboxes with a ceramic valve are designed differently.

Blue arrows show stationary parts, green arrows show moving parts.

1- housing in which the entire mechanism is assembled. It has a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.

2 – rotary rod with its own sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transmitted to the movable ceramic plate (item 3). On given It is not visible in the figure, but when assembled, a fluoroplastic gasket is placed in the upper part between the rod and the body, which plays the role of a thrust sliding bearing.

A second ceramic plate (item 4) is fixedly installed in the lower part of the housing. When assembled, it is tightly ground to the movable one. Turning the rod leads to the alignment of the figured cutouts (windows) on the plates - this opens the flow of water. Depending on the combined area, the pressure becomes greater or less. The tap is closed. the windows are diametrically opposite position.

When installed in the mixer, the axle box fits tightly with the bottom part round channel supply due to the ring silicone gasket (item 5).

When assembled, the axle box is held in place by a locking bracket (item 6) or a washer (depending on the model - a special groove is made in the rotating rod for this clamp. There are clamps in the form of a small threaded rod with a slot for a screwdriver.

To repair axle-box cranes of a similar design, you can find special repair kits - the main thing is that they fit a specific model. What could be the reasons for the crane axle box not working properly:

A– wear or deformation of the silicone gasket on the bottom. When the tap is closed, water continues to flow into the spout. Must be replaced.

b– wear of the sealing ring at the junction of the tap and mixer (exactly Also, as on a tap with a rubber valve).

V– one of the most common reasons is the depletion of the fluoroplastic plate. The tight fit of the rubbing parts (ceramic plates) to each other is disrupted, and when closed, the water does not completely shut off. The defect is easily checked - if you press the axlebox rod from above while water is oozing, the flow stops. Eliminated by replacement fluoroplastic rings for new ones.

G– two sealing rings on the rod prevent water from flowing upward from the body. Wear will make itself felt by leaking water in the flywheel area. To be replaced.

d– abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This doesn’t happen often – plumbers claim that ceramic parts are “the last to go.” Possible reason– heavily polluted water with solid inclusions. The faucet does not hold water and rotates unevenly and with force. If the repair kit contains plates, then they are also easy to change.

The process of overhauling and repairing the crane axle box is shown in detail in the video:

Video: how to repair a ceramic faucet axle box

Well, if it was not possible to find the required kit, you will have to change the crane axlebox completely.

If you need to replace a crane axle box, then to purchase a new one it is best to take the dismantled one with you to the store. What is important here is the diameter of the landing thread, the installation length of the entire assembly, and other design features (for example, threads for installing a decorative cap on top) and so on . If desired, you can replace taps with rubber valves with “ceramics” and vice versa. And one more thing - to select an axle box, it is advisable to take the handwheel (lamb) to the store. It happens that the splines of the new axlebox rod do not coincide with the old flywheel.

Before reverse installation tap, you must carefully wipe the seat with a clean cloth - there shouldn't be small debris, limescale - anything that can interfere with the normal screwing and tight fit of the gaskets.

When installing a new axlebox, do not use excessive force - you can damage the body from the mixer or compress the gaskets. It is best to do this - with the water supply closed, the tap is screwed into the socket until it stops by hand. Then the supply is opened, and the tap is carefully turned with a key until water stops coming out from under it.

After this, you can put the decorative cap (if provided), the flywheel in place, fix it with a screw and close the hole with a plug of the corresponding color.

After carrying out these steps, the two-valve mixer should work normally.

Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ceramic cartridge

If problems arise with a single-lever mixer, then there may be two completely different options. Thus, the device may have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical water flow switch.

First, let's look at the cartridge option.

The problem makes itself felt by the impossibility of blocking the flow from from leakage when the lever is completely lowered, water seeping through the top of the mixer, excessively light or, conversely, difficult movement of the lever with unsatisfactory mixing quality.

The best solution is to replace the cartridge with a new one. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might initially seem.

The schematic diagram of a mixer with a cartridge is shown in the figure:

1- metal body with mixer.

2 – cartridge.

3 – clamping fixing nut that holds the cartridge in a tightly pressed position in the body. Usually it is buried on top with a decorative cap (item 4).

5 – mixer handle, fixed on the plastic lever of the cartridge with a screw (item 6)

7 – swivel spout. The tightness of this moving unit is ensured by two o-ring gaskets (item 8), and the smooth running is ensured by fluoroplastic rings (item 9) acting as sliding bearings.

10 – flow aerator located at the end of the spout. To seal its installation, a gasket (pos. 11) is used.

In order to replace the cartridge, work is performed in the following sequence:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The picture shows a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge.
	The first step is to carefully pry up and remove the plug that covers the hole for access to the screw securing the handle. Sometimes the plug and screw, in some models, are located at the top of the handle - this is easy to determine. If repairs are made without removing the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close the drain hole - small parts they really “love” to fall into it.
	Try shining a flashlight into the opened hole to determine which head has the retaining screw. There may be a straight screwdriver, a curved screwdriver, or a hexagon screwdriver. Use a suitable wrench or screwdriver to loosen this screw. There may be surprises here - it does not always give in immediately, especially if water has leaked through the top of the mixer. Using brute force is not recommended, as you can tear off the splines, and removal can become a really big problem. It's best to try spraying the screw with WD-40 and letting it "go away."
	After the screw is loosened or unscrewed, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards.
	The next task is to unscrew the decorative cap. It usually yields to hand force. If not, then you can try to move it out of place with a gas wrench or pliers, but only very “gently”, trying not to scratch the coating or deform the thin metal.
	After removing the cap, the retaining clamp nut will open.
	Using an adjustable or regular open-end wrench of the required size, the nut is unscrewed counterclockwise...
	... and is pulled up, completely releasing the cartridge.
	The cartridge is now very easy to remove simply with your fingers, without resorting to any tool.
	Do not rush to throw away the dismantled old cartridge - you will need it to purchase a new one. The fact is that there are many models of different standards, differing in diameter, height, channel arrangement, etc. But it won’t be difficult to find a new one in the store based on the sample.
	Before installing a new cartridge, you must clean it thoroughly. soft cloth a cylindrical cavity inside the body - there should be no rust, lime deposits, or small particles left there. Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have centering protrusions that must coincide with the corresponding recesses in the body.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Again, it is necessary to warn you that you should not use excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, as this can deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals located underneath. It's best to give it a short puff, then turn on the water and check to see if it's coming into the sides of the cartridge. If a leak is detected, slowly tighten the nut until the leak stops.

You can immediately focus on the already mentioned leak in the swivel spout block. The cartridge is here - absolutely nothing how, and the problem is caused by wear of the sealing rings (in the diagram above - item 8). Some models use cuffs instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.

To replace the seals, the mixer will have to be disassembled even further in order to remove the rotating spout block from the body. Options may vary depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this unit is removed upwards - locked with a special cylindrical coupling. But still, more often it is removed in the direction of connecting the supply hoses. For disassembly, in this case, it is impossible to avoid completely dismantling the mixer from the sink (how this is done is already described above).

• A ring-shaped lock nut will be visible from below. Unscrew it - a fluoroplastic ring will be revealed under it.

• Carefully, so as not to damage it, it is removed, and then the entire rotating spout block is removed from the body downwards.
• Now we get to the gaskets (as shown in the diagram above) or cuffs (see picture below).

• These seals will have to be replaced by purchasing new ones based on the sample in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings at the top and bottom - perhaps they are also already very worn.

Some craftsmen practice winding to restore the sealing properties of these seals. But still optimal solution will be a complete replacement.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to install fluoroplastic rings on top and bottom of the rotating block.

Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch block

Not all single-lever faucets have the cartridge discussed above inside - many of them are equipped with a ball-shaped valve assembly. Typical scheme The structure of such devices is shown in the figure:

Top down:

The mixer handle (pos. 1), fixed with a screw (pos. 2), which is covered with a cap (pos. 3).

Below is a metal cap (item 4), which secures the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it there is a plastic cam with a shaped washer (item 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in a certain range. The bottom of the washer is dome-shaped and rubber seal around the circumference - for a tight fit to the ball.

The mixing ball itself (item 6), hollow inside, has holes for the passage of water from the liner and exit into the rotary spout block.

From below, rubber valve seats (pos. 7) fit tightly to the ball, which are constantly pressed against its surface by springs (pos. 8).

The design of the mixer below is no longer fundamentally different from that discussed above - a rotary spout block (item 9) with grooves (item 10) for sealing rings (item 11). The entire structure is assembled in a brass body (item 12). An additional aerator (item 13) can also be located inside, providing better mixing of water before being supplied to the spout.

We will not consider problems with spouting - they are practically no different from what has already been stated above. Let's just focus on repairing the valve mechanism.

• Removing the mixer handle is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached not rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for a fixing screw.
• To disassemble, you first need to carefully unscrew the top cap. It may have slots on the outside for gripping with a key, or four grooves on the top inside. Of course, it would be better to use a special key. But if it is not there, then the cap is removed from its place, carefully knocking it counterclockwise against the groove with a screwdriver. Another option is to insert round nose pliers into the grooves from the inside.
• When the cap is removed, remove the cam with the washer. You can immediately remove any existing dirt or deposits with a soft cloth.
• Then the ball itself is taken out and the entire valve part is carefully examined.

Valve part with the ball removed - top view

The reasons for malfunction may be the following:

• The upper dome washer is dirty or worn (orange arrow). Occurs infrequently, usually eliminated by simply cleaning the surface. The spherical seat for the ball in the body itself is checked in the same way - it also needs to be cleaned.
• Wear of the ball itself (green arrow) - cracks, grooves, etc. It can only be eliminated by replacing it with a new one.
• Wear or deformation of the valve seats (blue arrows) - they do not fit tightly to the surface of the ball and begin to leak water. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
• Weakening and sagging of the springs (red arrows) do not ensure that the seats are tightly pressed to the ball. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.

If you purchase a repair kit, then repairs are easy.

• Using a thin screwdriver, remove the old valve seats. Then the springs are removed in the same way.

• After thoroughly cleaning the mixer cavity, begin assembly in the reverse order.
• Springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is carefully placed in the socket until it stops.
• A thin layer of silicone grease is applied to the cleaned surface of the ball. Then it is installed in the body so that the limiting protrusion on the body fits into the figured groove on the ball.
• Next, a plastic assembly is installed - a shaped dome washer and a cam. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a groove in the body, and a corresponding protrusion on the cam.
• The upper metal cap is attached and screwed on.
• The mixer handle is placed on the stem and secured with a screw.

At this point, the repair of the faucet with a ball valve can be considered complete.

For greater clarity - disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve in the video:

Video: disassembling a mixer with a ball valve mechanism

Aerator clogged

Another common problem with the operation of the mixer is poor pressure when the taps are fully open. The problem is usually a clogged flow aerator located at the end of the spout.

Fixing such a problem is very simple.

First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. He can even succumb to the force of his hand. If not, don’t worry, it has two slots for winding the key.

Inside, there will probably be an accumulation of solid impurities that interfere with the free passage of water. They can be washed off, let's direct a powerful pressure from reverse side grids

If this measure does not help, then you can disassemble the aerator by carefully prying plastic mesh up. Small particles may have entered the cavity of the device and clogged the holes. You will have to work with a needle or toothpick to clean them.

It often happens that the blockage becomes “fatal” and cannot be removed. mechanical cleaning. There is nothing to do - take the removed aerator for a sample and purchase a new one.

They are not that expensive, and you can easily afford periodic replacement. But if such a situation occurs often, then it is worth thinking about the fact that the quality tap water extremely low, it is oversaturated with solid inclusions, and requires mandatory installation at least mechanical filters.

Find out, and also read useful recommendations, from our new article.

This preventative measure will ensure more long-term operation and the entire mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have an abrasive effect on rubber and silicone seals and on the ceramic plates of the valve mechanism.

The most important engineering system in every home is the plumbing.

With its help, hot and cold water enters our homes.

To mix both liquid streams to a temperature that is comfortable for consumers, a special technical device called a mixer is installed in the kitchen or bathroom.

Just like any other mechanism or device, faucets tend to break down. They sometimes become clogged and stop functioning normally.

Every owner in the house, if he considers himself one, should be able to cope with the simple work of repairing plumbing equipment.

Types of faucets

Mixers come in three modifications:

• single lever,
• valve,
• ball

In this article we will talk about the most common type - the spherical type of construction. The mechanism itself is quite simple - just a single rotary lever.

When positioned up or down, the water pressure is regulated, and turning the knob to the left or right coordinates the water temperature.

Due to the simplicity of the device, such mixers are considered the most reliable and economical.

If you hear the annoying, monotonous sound of dripping water from a faucet every day, this means that the faucet has become unusable and needs to be repaired or replaced.

The faucet is considered such an important element of plumbing equipment that its damage requires your immediate attention.

The following reasons may cause breakdowns:

• faucet leaks,
• reducing the volume of water flow,
• leakage of liquid from under the valve.

If you find at least one of the above signs, the product must be disassembled.

Do you want to not only dismantle the faucet yourself, but also try to fix the problem, and then also assemble it correctly?

To do this, you need to thoroughly know the structure of the mixer..

If you have information about what components this device consists of, you can insure yourself against errors and significantly reduce the time it takes to repair it.

Product structure

Ball mixers are characterized as reliable and durable devices due to the non-separable cartridge included in their mechanism.

All its constituent elements are carefully ground in relation to each other.

The basic basis of these designs is a highly polished hollow ball located in the faucet body with holes and a pin for attaching it to the handle, which ensures the rotation of the ball.

Cold and hot water enters this ball through two brass tubes and flexible hoses.

After that, it mixes there and flows out through a tap at a certain temperature.

Tightness is achieved thanks to the presence of gaskets.

As a precautionary measure to prevent the user from getting burns, faucet cartridges are equipped with a special ring that limits the angle at which the handle can be turned in the direction of hot water.

The cartridge inside can be made of stainless steel or ceramic.

Ceramic consists of two plates, high-quality polished using ultrasound and perfectly ground to each other.

This surface polishing prevents droplets of liquid from seeping between the plates.

If you disassemble the cartridge, remove the washers from it and place them on top of each other, the elements should attract each other as if magnetized.

Using this elementary method, the quality of the cartridge is determined. In a single-lever device, no additional seals are provided in the mixer mechanism.

Due to the lack of seals and the strict compatibility of all parts, there is nothing to wash in ball-type mixers.

Moreover, this work is not very difficult, and almost any man who has the following tools in his household can handle it:

• hex key,
• flat screwdriver,
• small hammer,
• pliers.

Before you start disassembling the tap, you need to turn off the water supply in the house or apartment (read where the connection to the water supply network is located).

Step-by-step instruction

According to this diagram, you can disassemble ball valve. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this. If you follow the instructions above, there should be no problems with disassembly.

If your kitchen or bathroom has a mixer with two valves, then disassembly will need to be done using a slightly different method.

How to properly disassemble a 2-valve mixer

This job is also quite easy to do.

To accomplish this goal, you will need a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench.

1. First of all, we shut off the water supply to the apartment (it is written about a storage tank for water supply of 500 liters).
2. Remove the blue and red plugs from the taps.
   Having dismantled them, you will find screws that need to be unscrewed with a screwdriver.
3. After this you will be able to see what condition the rubber gaskets are in.
   According to them appearance you will understand whether they need to be replaced or bad job the mixer is due to the fact that deposits have appeared (read about equipment for iron removal of water in the article) or connections have become loose.
4. There is another reason for the disgusting operation of the faucet - limescale deposits accumulated inside it. To remove it, take a long, flat screwdriver and use it to try to remove all the dirt.

There are springs in front of the sealing rubber that need to be checked for functionality. If they do not fulfill their purpose, then they need to be replaced with new ones.

Please note that the new products are much longer and stronger than the old ones. When installing springs, this fact must be taken into account.

Changing sealing gum, do not forget to use silicone grease, it will greatly extend their service life.

The rubbing parts of the mixer will move easier if a small amount of lubricant is applied to them.

To assemble the crane, all steps are performed in exactly the reverse order.

Sometimes, leaks form at the top of the faucet or at its base. You can resolve this issue as follows:

• After removing the ball, lift the spout at the base and pull up the top a little.

The rotating outlet of the ball type mixer is sealed with two rings. Namely, they have a tendency, over time, to form leaks.

The gaskets must be removed very carefully. After replacing them and before reinstalling the ball mixer, the O-rings must be lubricated with silicone, thus minimizing their wear.

Parts that require replacement should only be purchased High Quality, they will significantly increase the service life of the product.

If you replaced the gaskets, reassembled the faucet, and the leak did not go away, it means that the new parts do not fit or you did not press them well.

You may have to disassemble the faucet again, look for and eliminate the cause of the leak.

It should be taken into account that in the modern plumbing market, ball valves are presented in various modifications. Therefore, the methods for disassembling them may differ slightly from each other.

When installing a ball mixer and during each subsequent repair, all threaded connections must be sealed with a special thread or fluoroplastic tape.

Please note that disassembly work will be carried out much faster, if you think through all your actions in advance or sketch out a small plan that you will follow.

Do not discount the above recommendations, and you will be able to disassemble and reassemble the product quickly and without unnecessary fuss.

Watch the video to see how to repair the faucet yourself at home.

The ball mixer design is easy to use, which is why this type of plumbing fixture is widely popular. Ball valve leakage is a rare occurrence, so using it helps save water.

You can repair the ball valve yourself without resorting to the services of specialists.

Often those who use ball valves wonder about their design and disassembly method. This is necessary in order to produce it yourself, without resorting to services experienced craftsmen. The design is quite simple, and its repair does not involve any difficulties.

Ball mixer mechanism

The ball mixer recently began to be produced by manufacturers supplying products to the market, and replaced the stuffing box mixer. Its predecessor required constant replacement of rubber gaskets. Under the cover of the ball mixer there is a special handle for adjustment, which is carried out with a screw. Although the ball valve design is more rigid, it does not protect the valve from the effects of hard water.

To eliminate all malfunctions, do it in the kitchen or bathroom, where the use of the mixer should be intensive. The faucet should be disassembled if, upon inspection, a certain degree of water leakage was detected. In this case, water can flow in a thin stream or flow out under pressure. When disassembling a ball valve, you should know the structure of this mechanism, which has a fairly wide range of equipment, despite its small size.

The ball valve device includes a non-separable ceramic cartridge, which makes its operation reliable and durable. In the design, the elements fit tightly to each other, so there are no seals. The ball valve mechanism may periodically fail, since its design with tightly fitting parts does not affect the operation of the mixer.

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Equipment

When buying a ball valve, be sure to determine for what purpose it is intended. On the one hand, it can be installed in a water supply system that provides both cold and hot water. On the other hand, it can be used as structural element gas pipeline systems.

It is necessary to take into account the type of part, which can be welded or be a flanged (full bore) version. The flange valve is reinforced with threads, and this does not allow the device to function in an aggressive environment. When purchasing a ball valve, they are checked with special care for defects, since leakage and the need for repair are possible. The kit includes the following components:

• control handle;
• frame;
• ball made of brass or steel;
• seal rod;
• Teflon sealing seats;
• brass rod;
• nuts;
• sealing washer.

There are two types of commercially available systems:

1. Whole-welded.
2. With a collapsible body.

A crane with a collapsible body is a priority, so it has some advantages. The device is a more reliable accessory, since its design does not include numerous gaskets that lead to leaks during wear of parts.

Product operation process of this type is convenient because their use requires raising the lever or lowering it. The design of the device is characterized by a high degree of tightness, achieved when the ball is completely adjacent to the tap.

Single-lever ball valves are characterized by a principle of operation associated with the presence of adjustment handles secured under the linings. Therefore, a special screw is provided.

No special tools are required for disassembly. The design of a ball mixer, which is more advanced, is sometimes not without defects during operation, so disassembling the tap may be required in the future.

Deformation is more common locking device. During the repair process, the levers in the crane are changed, and the rotary head is also replaced.

If a water leak occurs, you should understand the design of the ball valve in order to repair it. Ball valves are easy to use, which is why they have gained wide popularity in the market.

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Device

A ball valve is characterized by the presence of a control head, the manufacture of which is made of stainless steel. The faucet ball in the middle is hollow, it has holes and a pin, polished to a shine, and it is located in the mixer body. Hot and cold water is supplied through special brass tubes, as well as flexible wiring. A handle is attached to the pin, causing the ball to rotate.

The special hole cartridge must be sealed, this is achieved with gaskets.

To prevent burns, the faucet cartridges have a ring that limits the angle of rotation of the handle in the direction where hot water is supplied. They are polished using ultrasound and ground tightly together. This type sanding prevents water from seeping through.

If you disassemble the cartridge by placing its washers on top of each other, they will attract like magnets. This method is decisive for checking the quality of the cartridge. The presence of additional mixers in the single-lever ball valve device is not provided. The device has no parts that can be worn out during operation of the faucet, since there are no gaskets, and all elements correspond exactly to each other.

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Tools at work

Often, if deformation of the shut-off device is detected due to the influence of hard water on it, the lever and the faucet head, which is rotary, are replaced. In this case, you must follow the step-by-step instructions. Disassembly should be carried out using tools such as:

• flat screwdriver;
• hex wrench;
• hammer;
• pliers.

The central water supply is turned off if the single-lever mechanism is disassembled. Before removing its handle, you need to make sure that the valves are closed. Use a hex wrench to loosen the screw that holds the handle. Next, remove it and use a screwdriver to press the recess of the threaded ring, tapping it with a hammer. Then the ring is carefully turned counterclockwise.

It must be remembered that if the entire ball mixer overturns, this may lead to malfunctions of the water hose under the faucet mechanism. Therefore, you should remove the chrome dome with pliers in such a way as not to damage the four-tooth ring located under the dome.

It is necessary to adjust the position of the wheel using movements directed upward or downward. After this, attention is usually paid to the rust, which allows you to assess the degree of compaction. Since the seal is located inside the mixer ball, the ball should be removed from it. Possible critical rotation of the crane is prevented in the mechanism due to the presence of a ball stopper. It is a hole with a characteristic oblong shape.

It is necessary to inspect the entire ball, turning Special attention to the bottom. It is important that its surface is clean and smooth. If metal wear is detected near the holes, then this part is replaced. Having found the sealing elements inside the spring ball, they are replaced, since during operation they may lose their own characteristics. Using a screwdriver, remove all seals. They are then replaced with new parts.