Building the walls and roof of a house is only half the battle. It is necessary to make the built space comfortable for life. To do this, most often the house is insulated from the outside or from the inside, and sometimes both options are used simultaneously.

Do you want to insulate your home, but don’t know what technologies exist and where to start? We will help you deal with this problem - the article discusses the main options used for external thermal insulation. The order of work execution was also considered, themed photos and useful video recommendations on the nuances of insulation.

The materials from which the walls of permanent structures are erected can be different: brick, concrete, slag or aerated concrete blocks, wood, sandwich panels - these are just their main types.

For some of them, insulation is not required at all: for example, for sandwich panels. But other options need it to varying degrees.

Why do you need to insulate from the outside? Many people attribute this to the fact that if an insulating layer is installed inside a building, useful spatial volume is stolen from the interior.

This is partly true, but main reason That’s not what it’s all about. Critically important parameter is .

A dew point forms on a surface where there is a temperature difference when pressure changes.

And if you install thermal insulation inside the room, it means that the walls of the building themselves will be cold, since the insulation will save heat inside the space and prevent it from reaching the enclosing structures.

Insulation from the inside is fraught with the fact that the dew point will form inside the building, most likely on inner surface main wall, which is insulated with insulation

Methods and procedures for wall insulation

It turns out that a change in the weather outside will provoke a change in the humidity inside. Moreover, the changes will be significant - condensation will form on the walls, which will not have the opportunity to dry. Hence a number of negative aspects, including development.

This is why it is so important to insulate walls from the outside. In total, there are 3 different technologies that are used to insulate capital structures. It seems reasonable to dwell on each of them in more detail.

Method No. 1 - well

This is one of the most ancient ways to insulate the walls of your home from the outside. Indeed, everything is logical: main load-bearing walls are built, and after that, retreating a little, they are lined with another row of bricks - for example, half a brick thick.

Between the main and external, let's call it decorative, walls, a void is formed - a “well”, which creates the effect of a thermos.

Distance from decorative wall up to the capital one is adjusted using special connecting steel anchors or a reinforcing mesh is laid. It covers the section of the well and simultaneously serves as reinforcement to strengthen the outer wall.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Analysis of the most common mistakes when externally insulating the facades of private houses:

Thermal insulation capital buildings ceases to be a separate issue that is resolved after the house is built. Now it is decisive when choosing the construction technology itself.

Over time, with the rise in price of electricity and energy resources, for example, gas, the issues that will come to the fore when constructing a building heat saving.

Tell us what insulation method you used to insulate your own home and which ones you used for this. Are you satisfied with the result? Please leave your comments in the communication block located under the article.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of summer houses, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Insulating a house from the outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure that you can handle on your own, even without any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation raises a lot of questions, and also requires strict adherence to technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below I will describe to you several ways to perform external insulation as efficiently as possible and without damaging the structure.

Methods of external insulation

Many people who are faced with insulation for the first time do not know how best to place thermal insulation from the inside or outside. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, in private houses, for a number of reasons, external thermal insulation should be performed:

• if you place the heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before insulation. Moreover, a heat insulator will form in the space between the wall and the insulation;
• It is impossible to provide thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, resulting in insulation that is inadequate;
• Internal insulation reduces living space.

Thus, the answer to the question posed above is unambiguous - internal insulation is carried out only in cases of extreme necessity.

So, if you decide to insulate the outside of your house with your own hands, you will need dry thermal insulation material in the form of slabs or mats for these purposes. As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as insulation. With their help, you can insulate the facade in several ways:

• wet facade – the technology consists of gluing insulation and applying plaster on top of it. This method is widely used due to its relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and fragility, compared to other finishing methods;

• curtain façade– is a frame to which facade materials are attached (siding, lining, facade, etc.). The insulation is located in the space between the finishing material and the wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time costs more;
• cladding thermal insulation blocks , which can be made of wood concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, etc. It must be said that the thermal insulation properties of these materials are worse than polystyrene foam or, for example, mineral wool. But they have higher strength.

If, for example, you need to insulate an old wooden or country house frame house, That this method insulation is the best solution. Moreover, block insulation can be combined with other heat insulators.

Everyone must decide how and with what to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the situation, financial opportunities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you can see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we will consider in more detail all the insulation options described above.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to properly perform a wet facade. To do this you will need the following materials:

• insulation in the form of mats or slabs (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam);
• special dowels for insulation (“fungi”);
• glue for insulation;
• aluminum perforated corners
• fiberglass mesh;
• primer;
• decorative plaster;
• dye.

Before buying a heat insulator, people are always interested in what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save money and use polystyrene foam. If the structure is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool, which will serve as fire protection.

The process of installing insulation with your own hands looks like this:

1. first of all, you need to prepare the facade for work - dismantle all elements that will interfere with the installation of insulation;
2. then you need to dilute the glue with water according to the instructions on the package;
3. Next, the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue in “blobs” in the corners and in the center, which will give more possibilities by aligning the slabs relative to each other.

It should be noted that at this stage it is necessary to ensure an even vertical surface walls, therefore, in the process of gluing the insulation, you need to use a level and beacons (a horizontally stretched thread along the wall along which each row of heat insulation is aligned);

1. then the insulation is additionally fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall directly through the slabs or mats. The dowels must be driven in so that they are recessed and do not protrude above the surface of the wall;

1. The slopes are glued over in the same way, the only thing is that they are not fixed with dowels;
2. after this, the evenness of the walls should be checked as a rule; if necessary, individual areas can be floated;
3. after that for everything external corners perforated aluminum corners are glued;
4. then the screw caps are covered with glue;
5. The next step is gluing the mesh. To do this, you need to use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A mesh is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is passed over it, as a result of which it is embedded in the adhesive composition.

I note that the mesh must first be cut into sheets of the required length, taking into account the fact that it should be overlapped and turned over at the corners;

1. after drying, the glue is reapplied to the surface of the walls thin layer. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
2. when the glue dries, the surface is treated with a primer using paint roller. The composition is applied in two passes;

1. After the soil has dried, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and leveled with a fine trowel. When the composition begins to set, the plaster is rubbed with sandpaper in a circular or reciprocating motion;
2. the final stage is painting. There is nothing complicated in this procedure - the roller must be dipped into a bath of paint and then treated with it on the wall. The paint is applied in two layers.

This completes the work. It should be noted that using this technology it is possible to insulate not only a private house, but also an apartment.

Curtain facade

Making a curtain façade on your own is no more difficult than a wet one. To do this, you need to prepare the following materials:

• insulation in the form of mats or slabs;
• metal profile or wooden beam for mounting the frame;
• adjustable brackets;
• vapor barrier film;
• dowels for insulation;
• finishing material for the facade.

Many people are sure that the cheaper the heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or polystyrene foam comes in different qualities. For example, cheap mineral wool can be exposed to moisture, and polystyrene foam can easily ignite and sustain combustion, so it is better to use materials from well-known brands, even if they are not the cheapest.

Insulation instructions look like this:

1. After preparing the facade, you must first carry out installation. There are quite a lot of options for its design and placement of insulation in it. Most often, racks are mounted on brackets, between which mats or slabs are placed.
   It must be said that installation of the frame is the most critical stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks must be placed in the same vertical plane;

1. then insulation is laid between the racks and fixed with dowels;
2. then a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation. As a rule, it is fixed on a frame. To do this, you can use slats that are mounted horizontally, with the film located between them and the racks;
3. At the end of the work, the frame is sheathed facade material, after which additional elements are installed - ebbs, corners, etc.

That's it for the montage. curtain façade completed with your own hands.

Cladding with thermal insulation blocks

If you need to insulate an old, for example, log house, then it is better to build for it additional walls, which will also serve as insulation. Of course, this will require more time and effort, but the result is well worth the expense.

There are quite a lot of options for covering walls. The most common materials are:

• blocks from Sibit (it would be more correct to say aerated concrete, since Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which people began to call the material it produces);
• wood concrete blocks - made from wood chips mixed with cement;
• gas silicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, their composition is based on lime. In addition, this material is obtained by autoclave;
• made of polystyrene concrete – contain foam granules in their structure;
• from expanded clay concrete – contain expanded clay granules in their structure.

So that you can decide on the materials yourself and understand, for example, why a gas silicate block is better in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will provide a table with the main characteristics of these materials:

As we see, some materials benefit in strength, others – in thermal conductivity. Eg, gas silicate block more durable than wood concrete, but at the same time it is more heat-conducting.

Of course, an important factor in the choice is the price of the material. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cubic meter, and polystyrene concrete material costs about the same. The price of gas silicate is slightly cheaper - about 3,000 rubles per cubic meter.

The house cladding technology is as follows:

• along the perimeter of the house is carried out shallow foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information about the arrangement of such a foundation;
• then the foundation is waterproofed with several layers of roofing felt;
• then a wall is erected around the perimeter of the house. Since blocks have big sizes, masonry is much easier to do than with brick. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie flat and in the same plane, so during the work you need to use a level, plumb lines and beacons;

• if a wooden country house is being clad, after several rows in facing wall pins are laid, which are pre-hammered into wooden wall. The pitch of the pins should be about a meter and a half.

Walls built from heat-insulating blocks require further finishing, for example, plastering. That's why this technology insulation is rarely used. Most often it is used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen and insulate a garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can line it with brick and place mineral mats between the walls. Of course, the costs in this case will be much higher, but additional finishing will not be needed, and the building will acquire a solid and presentable appearance.

Here, in fact, are all the options for external insulation of houses that I wanted to introduce you to.

Conclusion

As we found out, there are several methods for effective external insulation of houses, which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of the technology that is optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to violate the sequence of actions described above and do the work carefully.

See the video in this article for more information. If during the insulation process you encounter any difficulties or some points are not fully clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Wall insulation carried out as , so .

If it is necessary to insulate walls, then, as a rule, one insulation option is chosen: either with inside load-bearing wall, or from external.

It is also possible to insulate a wall on both sides, but this is not always necessary: insulation options are selected based on climatic conditions, construction features, and individual preferences.

Indoor insulation is installed on the inside of the building.

The disadvantages of this option are the following:

• the free space of the room decreases;
• the likelihood of dew point formation inside the wall or between the insulation and the wall.

Internal insulation of the walls of a house is good because:

• weather conditions will not affect the work schedule;
• If the building has cladding, it is possible to preserve it unchanged.

For internal insulation it is necessary to install a reliable vapor barrier inside the building.

Insulation of walls from the outside is carried out with outside building. With this option, thermal insulation is maintained effective area structures, there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer. However, if the cladding of the building has already been completed, it must be dismantled.

External insulation

Pie wall elements

Before insulating the walls of the house and attic, it is necessary to correctly lay the layers of the cake. A pie wall is sequentially laid layers of materials, which serve to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house.

Pie wall elements wooden house are:

• wood timber frame. Most often made of beams 15x15 cm;
• horizontal wooden sheathing, sometimes a metal profile is used;
• insulation made of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
• multifunctional membrane, which performs the function of protection from winds and at the same time acts as a vapor barrier. It is a dense polyethylene film;
• vertical lathing;
• finishing material;
• vapor barrier film;
• internal cladding (plasterboard, lining).

wall pie

For all wooden wall elements it is necessary to use quality wood, which must be dried naturally. In addition, materials should be chosen of high quality and durable so that the walls perform their functions for many years.

Types of insulation - which is better?

For proper internal insulation of a wooden house, they are used insulation materials that, while maintaining thermal insulation properties, do not cause unpleasant odor, fireproof and environmentally friendly.

The most common options for internal insulation are:

• mineral basalt wool . It is the most popular material for wall insulation. The features of this material are: good thermal insulation properties, high level sound insulation, fire resistance, strength, high hygroscopicity, due to which it is necessary to install piping made of vapor barrier films;
• foam boards. Because the material can release styrene, extruded polystyrene foam is used, which requires a containment system. The material has good thermal insulation, has soundproofing properties, however, is quite fragile;
• glass wool. It has greater thermal conductivity than mineral wool, but the price of the material is significantly lower than basalt slabs. The material crumbles a lot, so it should be laid in protective equipment: crumbs of material are harmful to health. In addition, it is necessary to install enclosing structures;
• isoplat. Insulation, which consists of compressed flax fibers and wood board. An ideal thermal insulation material from the point of view of environmental friendliness, and also durable enough that it does not require the installation of fencing systems;
• polyurethane foam, which is installed by spraying it onto the surface, is installed using special equipment. Modern and quite expensive material.

Comparative characteristics of thermal insulation

The type of insulation should be chosen based on the characteristics of the building, climatic conditions, and the purpose of the building.

Seal cracks in walls and insulate

IN wooden beams dried using appropriate technology, cracks form that need to be sealed.

Means for sealing cracks are:

• sealants and other synthetic products: resins, mastics, mounting foams. Synthetic sealants should not have an acrylic substance. Silicone seals must have a high level of frost resistance. The mixtures are placed deeply into the gap, and after drying the area is leveled. Polyurethane foam is used in places where facing work will subsequently be carried out;
• wood shavings mixed with wood glue. Used at any stage of finishing, as well as during additional inspection. The prepared mixture is poured into the previously cleaned gap from dust, then after completely dry the place is processed by grinding. The method is advisable to use for small cracks;
• decorative mixtures for sealing;
• fibrous materials- caulk (moss, wool, tow). Pre-cleaned cracks, impregnated with antiseptics and solutions that prevent the formation of mold, mildew, and dampness, are clogged with caulk.

NOTE!

Insulation at the joints of timber is carried out using sealants, mixtures or adhesive shavings. If the wall is made of logs, then the joints should be sealed only with fibrous materials.

Wood requires constant care and timely sealing of cracks that may appear over time. Regular wood inspection will help prevent the gap from growing, which can reduce the insulating properties of the walls.

Sealing tow

Sealing with sealant

Preparing the sheathing and installing it

For lathing walls inside a wooden dacha, they are made from wooden materials. Metal lathing is installed when the wall is covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Lathing installation work includes row preparatory work in the following order:

• mark for installation of sheathing. The width of the sheathing is selected based on the width of the insulation minus 2-5 millimeters. The insulation should stand up against the sheathing;
• preparation of corner posts. Necessary for creating an even wall angle. The height of the beam 50x100 mm should be equal to the height of the room. The smaller beam 50x50 mm is fastened with self-tapping screws to the edge of the larger beam, forming a right angle;
• making corner posts for all corners of the room;
• Preparation vertical boards for lathing: boards are cut according to the height of the room in quantities corresponding to the pitch, 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation board.

Installation of the sheathing starts from the corners: using self-tapping screws corner posts are installed in their places, their vertical position is checked with a level. Next, from the corners to the center, the remaining sheathing boards are attached along the entire perimeter.

On next stage strips are installed around the wall openings.

CAREFULLY!

All wooden elements the lathing must be treated with solutions against mold, mildew, and moisture.

After installation of the sheathing, a layer is laid thermal insulation material.

Installation of sheathing

Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls

When insulating walls internally, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier and waterproofing layer.

Vapor barrier materials can be:

• polypropylene films;
• foamed polymer films;
• foil films;
• diffusion membranes.

The vapor barrier layer is produced taking into account the specifics of its installation:

• The film should be attached to the sheathing using an overlapping stapler, and the joining points should be taped;
• the lathing on which the vapor barrier is attached should be no more than 5 cm;
• The vapor barrier layer is laid using a continuous contour method around the entire perimeter.

Installation of vapor barrier

A waterproofing layer, which protects against moisture coming from outside, is laid on the wall. Laying nuances:

• the waterproofing film is attached to the sheathing, leaving space for ventilation;
• a profile is attached to the film;
• Insulation is laid between the profile, and then a vapor barrier layer.

Wall waterproofing

The most popular waterproofing material is roofing felt. Vapor barriers and waterproofing must be installed to prevent condensation and ensure dryness of the wall pie.

Now let's look at ways to insulate walls from the inside.

Insulation of walls from the inside in a private house using mineral wool

Before insulating the walls from the inside, it is necessary to secure the sheathing. Mineral wool is a material that has good thermal insulation properties

, easy to install and durable.

It is necessary to lay mineral wool slabs between the sheathing boards in such a way that no gaps are formed.

• Besides:
• mineral wool is secured with nails and dowels (fungi);
• lay the material from bottom to top;

The edges of the mineral wool are slightly pressed for a tighter fit. Mineral wool should be laid in an even layer

After the insulation is securely fastened, a vapor barrier layer is laid on it.

Insulation with mineral wool

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside using polystyrene foam

The installation technique with polystyrene foam is quite simple, and if done correctly, it can provide reliable thermal insulation in the house.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene occurs in several stages:

• if the walls are made of round logs, then they need to be trimmed;
• between the lathing slats, panels of material are placed in a tight fit;
• the slabs can be additionally secured with foam blades;
• eliminate possible gaps using polyurethane foam.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Modern thermal insulation polyurethane foam is very well suited for insulating a wooden house from the inside, however, it requires compliance with certain requirements.

First of all, it is necessary to clean the walls from dust and sawdust, protect the floor, windows and doors with protective materials.

• perform sheathing in 60 cm increments with 4x4 cm or 5x5 cm timber;
• spray polyurethane foam between the sheathing boards;
• wait up to 12 hours until the layer of material dries completely;
• level the excess material in accordance with the level of the sheathing.

Insulation using polyurethane foam

Thus, insulation inside can be done quite effectively. If you carry out all the stages of laying the cake materials using proven technology, you can achieve good result: the walls will retain heat well in the room and thereby create a favorable indoor microclimate on cold days.

Useful video

Video instructions for insulating the walls of a private house:

In contact with

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of summer houses, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

If you want to insulate your house, then any specialist will tell you that it is better to do it outside. However, in some cases it becomes necessary to insulate the walls from the inside, for example, if the facade is already finished or external insulation is not enough. Therefore, below I will tell you how to insulate a house from the inside so that this measure is effective and does not lead to mold and destruction of the walls.

Features of insulating a house from the inside

Many people who have not previously encountered insulation are interested in whether it is even possible to place insulation on interior walls Oh? Of course, this is quite acceptable, and if the procedure is performed correctly, the house will become much more comfortable and economical in terms of heating.

• after installing the insulation, the walls of the building will no longer be heated, resulting in the possibility of cracks;
• Condensation occurs under the insulation;
• the usable area of ​​the premises decreases;
• there is no way to insulate the ceiling, resulting in a cold bridge remaining.

Therefore, you should resort to this method only in cases where it is really impossible to implement other insulation options. If, despite these disadvantages, you still decide to insulate from the inside, you must strictly adhere to the technology, which we will review below, especially when it comes to wall insulation.

If you insulate an extension, for example, a veranda, you can increase the living space of the house. The only thing is that before insulating the extension, you need to eliminate the gaps in the windows and doors.

Insulation technology

Materials

So if you take up this work yourself, then the first question that will arise in front of you is what is the best way to insulate the walls inside. The most common materials are the following:

• mineral mats are an environmentally friendly fireproof material that is vapor permeable.
• The cost of mineral wool is 1500-5000 rubles per cubic meter, depending on the brand and manufacturer;

expanded polystyrene - lightweight and slightly cheaper - its price ranges from 1000-3000 per cubic meter. True, expanded polystyrene is more fire hazardous and does not “breathe”, unlike mineral wool, however, with good ventilation, this disadvantage does not matter.

In a wooden house, it is better, of course, to use mineral wool. If the house is brick, you can also insulate it with polystyrene foam.

• In addition to insulation, you will also need other materials:
• wooden slats with a cross section of about 20x20 mm;
• adjustable brackets;
• wooden beams or profile for installing drywall;

vapor barrier film.

It makes sense to insulate your house not only if you will be living in it in the winter. If you insulate a garden house from the inside, then in the summer it will become cooler and more comfortable for relaxation. This is especially true for the thermal insulation of the roof, which gets hot under the sun during the day.

Floor insulation

It is necessary to carry out insulation from the inside of the house in a comprehensive manner, i.e. In addition to the walls, the floor and ceiling should also be insulated.

1. Therefore, first of all, I will tell you how to carry out this procedure with the floor.
2. If the floor is wooden, the instructions for insulating it are simple:
3. Next, the resulting panels should be covered with a waterproofing film, which should be laid directly on top of the logs. At the joints of the canvases it is necessary to provide an overlap of about 10 cm;

1. after this, insulation is laid on the film, which should fit tightly to the joists, leaving no gaps. It must be said that not only foam plastic or glass wool can be used as insulation, but also bulk materials, for example, expanded clay, ecowool or even sawdust;
2. laid on top of the insulation waterproofing film. It also needs to be laid with an overlap, and it is advisable to glue the joints with tape;
3. after this, you can lay the boards on top of the joists or other rough material.

You can also use it to insulate a wooden floor. natural material- reed. To perform reed insulation with your own hands, you need to stock up on it with the onset of the first frosts. The stems should be thoroughly dried before use.

If the floor is concrete, you can make a dry screed yourself. To do this you need to do the following:

1. First of all, a waterproofing film is laid;
2. Next, beacons are installed to level the surface dry. Special beacons are used aluminum profiles, which are laid on lumps of cement. To install beacons, you must use a level so that they are located in the same horizontal plane;

1. A damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room, which prevents floor squeaks and other unpleasant moments;
2. after that, expanded clay is poured into the space between the beacons and leveled with a rule or simply a board along the beacons;
3. sheets of plywood, chipboard or plasterboard are laid on top of the expanded clay, on which the finishing floor covering is subsequently laid.

Another technology for floor insulation is to pour screed directly onto mineral mats. This is done as follows:

1. the base is waterproofed with film;
2. then mineral mats are laid;
3. then waterproofing is spread over the mats;
4. Beacons are mounted on top of the waterproofing and screed is poured. In this case, it is advisable to use fiber for reinforcement rather than metal mesh so as not to damage the waterproofing film.

On our portal you can find more detailed information on how to install beacons and pour screed.

Wall insulation

Carrying out insulation inside the house Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the thermal insulation of the walls, since the effectiveness of this measure largely depends on them.

1. First of all, it is necessary to fix slats with a cross section of 20x20 mm on the wall. Most often, the slats are placed horizontally in increments of a meter and a half. To fasten the slats, you can use dowel nails;
2. then the film is stretched over the slats. I note that it must be tensioned so that between the wall and the insulation a ventilation gap. The latter is necessary to remove condensation, which will certainly form in winter.
   To fix the film, you can use a construction stapler;
3. then you should attach it to the horizontal slats vertical racks, between which the insulation will be located. The most difficult thing at this stage is to install the racks correctly so that they are positioned strictly vertically and in the same plane. This determines how smooth the walls will be.
   The pitch of the racks is the width of the insulation. Moreover, the latter should fit tightly so that there is no need to further fix it;

1. after installing the frame, you need to fill the space between the racks from the floor to the ceiling with insulation;
2. after filling the frame with insulation, another layer of vapor barrier film should be attached to it;

1. To complete the work, finishing material is attached to the frame. If you are insulating a suburban wooden house, you can sheathe the walls. If you want to paste wallpaper or use other Decoration Materials, drywall should be used.

If the house is built from KBB, aerated concrete or other material that does not hold ordinary dowel-nails, you should use special “butterfly” dowels or chemical fasteners.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of thermal insulation of walls. However, the insulation of the house is not yet completed.

Attic insulation

Finally, I’ll tell you how to properly insulate an attic. This procedure is reminiscent of floor insulation, however, it has its own nuances.

It must be said that ceiling insulation can be done both from the inside with your own hands and from the attic. From the inside, the work is done as follows:

• you need to start work by attaching the vapor barrier film to the floor beams and attic flooring;
• then insulation is placed in the space between the beams and fixed with slats;
• Another layer of vapor barrier is attached to the beams from below using a construction stapler;
• At the end of the work, the ceiling is hemmed with plasterboard or other material.

The same principle is used to insulate the attic.

It must be said that it is very difficult to insulate a ceiling from the inside with your own hands. Therefore, it is better to call an assistant to perform this operation.

Insulating the attic from the outside is carried out according to the same scheme as insulating the floor. In particular, you can use bulk thermal insulation materials, which are mentioned above.

The heat insulator can also be placed between the floor beams if the house is two-story. This will provide sound insulation.

Here, in fact, are all the main nuances regarding insulating a house from the inside. Finally, I note that to achieve the maximum effect from insulation, you need to pay attention to windows and doors. If they are poorly sealed, it will escape through the cracks. a large number of heat, which can be seen if you look at the house through a thermal imager.

Conclusion

Insulating a house from the inside, although it contains a number of disadvantages, nevertheless makes it possible to make housing much more comfortable and economical. Moreover, if you do the work yourself, which, as we found out, is not at all difficult, then this will not entail large financial costs. The only thing, as mentioned above, is to adhere to the technology and perform thermal insulation carefully, without leaving cold bridges.

See the video in this article for more information. If some points are not completely clear to you or difficulties arise during the process of insulating your home, leave questions in the comments and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

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Is it possible to live in country house, which is insufficiently or not insulated at all? A dozen of the most powerful heaters will not help here, since the heat created will quickly evaporate through the cracks in the walls, floor covering, roof, foundation.

There is only one way to significantly reduce the loss of heated air, while saving on energy - insulating the house. Thanks to it, comfortable living conditions are provided, the service life of the building is extended and money is saved that could have been spent on electricity. How to properly perform insulation country house- Further.

Comfortable conditions - what does this mean?

Each person has his own opinion about the convenience and coziness of a living space. In accordance with regulatory requirements(GOST 20494-96 “Residential and public buildings. Indoor microclimate parameters”), under comfortable conditions The following characteristics are understood:

• air temperature inside - from 20 to 22, wall surfaces - from 16 to 18, floors - from 22 to 24 degrees;
• thermal inertia of the room (the ability to accumulate and retain heat);
• relative air humidity inside the rooms is about 55%;
• absence of through wind movements (the latter's speed is no more than 0.2 m/s).

A minimal deviation from the requirements listed above indicates that it is necessary to thoroughly insulate the house.

Basic principles of insulation work

If a beginner in the construction business is wondering how to insulate a private house, he needs to learn a few fundamental rules that guarantee the expected result. Violation of even one of the work requirements listed below contributes to violation of GOST requirements and, as a result, a decrease in the effectiveness of previously performed actions.

1. The presence of a vapor barrier layer as protection for the insulation (for example, when mineral wool gets wet, the binder is washed out of the composition; this entails a deterioration in properties - if 2% of the surface of the mineral wool slab gets wet, its effectiveness is reduced by 50%).
2. Removing the freezing point from the inside to the outside (the process has two goals - protecting the walls and foundation of the building from premature destruction, as well as warming up not only internal space houses, but also walls).
3. Tight sealing of joints of steam, heat and waterproofing materials(to avoid frosty air getting into the cracks, the appearance of drafts or “cold bridges”).
4. Laying layers of steam, hydro and, in some cases, thermal insulation overlapping.
5. Mandatory protection of the building from the outside from moisture (for this, roofing material or material with similar properties is used).
6. Sealing gaps, insulating seams (sealants will help with this, polyurethane foam, fiberglass strips treated with silicone).
7. During final finishing, it is advisable to provide a ventilation gap (to prevent excessive wetting of the structure).

Fundamental rules apply to both methods of cladding a country house - external and internal. However, they are not always used together. How to insulate a house made of cinder block, wood or brick? When is it correct to insulate a room outside and inside, and in what case can you get by with only the inner lining? This issue also needs to be dealt with.

The need for insulation outside and inside

• requires insulation of less thickness than for interior decoration(the purchase will be cheap);
• the volume of premises of a country house does not suffer at all;
• the likelihood of condensation forming inside the walls is reduced to zero;
• Double protection of the house from the cold is preferable, especially in frosty winters.

• imposing an administrative ban on external insulation;
• location of communications (gas pipeline, electricity) near or on the walls;
• the desire of the residents to keep the façade of the building unchanged.

In most cases it is enough to get by internal insulation, however, for houses located in the northern regions, it is still necessary to carry out both external and internal thermal insulation.

Selecting suitable materials

Having decided on the methods of insulating a country house, the next question that pops up before the consumer is choosing a suitable heat insulator. There are no ideal materials, but the options under consideration need to be analyzed according to a number of criteria, including:

• thermal conductivity coefficient (indicates the ability of the insulation to hold or pass air; the lower the value, the better);
• liquid absorption coefficient (shows the amount of water absorbed by the material as a percentage of the mass; the lower the better);
• insulation density (allows you to calculate the weight required quantity and estimate how heavy this will make the structure);
• flammability class (there are four in total; class G1 is preferred - insulation that stops burning without a fire source, also difficult to ignite);
• insulation components (there are natural and synthetic; the former are more beneficial for health; the latter can release harmful synthetic mixtures into the atmosphere and home when heated);
• durability of the material (usually established by the manufacturer and indicated on the packaging);
• ease of transportation and installation (it is desirable that the material is supplied in rolls, slabs or blocks - this makes it easier to handle and easier to prepare the surface);
• soundproofing properties (not required for country houses, but are welcome);
• cost (there are materials available even to a person with average income; others cost an order of magnitude more, and also require expensive equipment and a team of qualified craftsmen for installation, whose labor is unlikely to be cheap).

The most popular insulation materials for external and internal lining walls are:

• mineral wool (basalt/glass/slag);
• polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam);
• polyurethane foam.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of materials varies from 0.03 to 0.065, and most of the previously listed properties are inherent in them to a sufficient extent.

Proper thermal insulation on the outside

If possible, the insulation is initially installed on the foundation of the room. Through it, the house loses about 20-25% of heat. Ideal insulation for the foundation - polystyrene foam or foamed polyurethane foam (which, as is already known, is not so cheap). The slabs of material are secured with adhesive mastic until the soil freezes to the depth of freezing.

After insulating the foundation, it is logical to move on to thermal insulation of the walls. And here preference should be given to polystyrene foam. Walls lined with mineral wool are more susceptible to getting wet than inside the house, so you should forget about it at this stage.

Foam insulation can be done in three ways:

• ventilated facade;
• “well” masonry;
• masonry under plaster.

The first method is the most effective and common, but not the easiest.

Proper thermal insulation from the inside

All areas of the house are insulated from top to bottom, that is, in the following order:

• attic ceiling;
• attic floor (second floor floor);
• lower floor ceiling;
• walls;
• ground floor floor.

Preference should be given mineral wool, foam plastic, ecowool. If you need to make thermal insulation of walls as cheaply as possible, you can get by with compressed straw, and in the case of the floor - expanded clay or clay, having first excavated the soil to the required depth.

When insulating an attic, external or internal walls, sheathing is required. It consists of cells into which sheets/plates of thermal insulation material are inserted. In the case of polystyrene foam, their length and width should be 1-2 cm greater than the size of the slab, and with mineral wool, they should be the same amount smaller.

Almost any work on insulating a private country house can easily be done by one person without any experience. Using the recommendations listed above, a novice builder with his own hands will be able to create an architectural masterpiece that will protect his family from frost for many decades.