According to current SNiP, installation plumbing equipment(including the toilet), is carried out in compliance with certain rules, which guarantees a long service life. Many companies provide installation services, but you can carry out this operation yourself and save a decent amount.

Before we figure out how to attach a toilet to the floor, let’s get acquainted with their known types and find out their design features.

Toilets differ in the following characteristics:

• tank device and drain bowl, the method of their articulation;
• direction of sewage flow (direct or lateral);
• the material from which the toilet is made;
• dimensions and total weight.

When considering the installation of toilets of this class, the main attention is paid to the first point (that is, design differences).

Reliable fastening of the toilet to the floor can be achieved if its design features are taken into account.

These plumbing samples come in two types:

• models with a tank that is mounted on the ledge of the bowl on the back side
  (in this case, the water storage tank is adjacent directly to the toilet wall);

• monoblocks, in which the bowl and drain tank are made as one module, do not
  having detachable parts.

The advantage of the combined version or monoblock is the ease of maintenance of the toilet, including its repair. To this should be added the relatively low noise level of the flushing procedure compared to a standard separate design.

The disadvantages of this class of plumbing fixtures include a noticeable reduction
pressure of the drain mass.

Let's figure out how to attach the toilet to the floor in the toilet.

There are three methods:

1. installation on dowels (bolts),
2. on glue
3. taffeta fixation.

Let's look at each of these toilet mounting methods in more detail.

Installation using dowels (bolts)

This method is the most practical and does not require large expenses. He also
provides reliable fastening for a toilet, provided that the floor screed
pre-prepared for installation.

Small irregularities do not impair the tightness of the installation, since in this case an elastic gasket can be used.

Fastening the toilet to the floor with bolts is suitable for both conventional designs, and for
lightweight, compact, that is, this option can be considered universal.

Bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor allow you to get a tight connection,
if a sealing gasket cut from a piece of linoleum is used
or elastic rubber.

These blanks are placed under it, and then outlined along the contour with a marker. Immediately after this, a sealing element corresponding in shape to the supporting part of the product is cut out with a sharp knife (sometimes scissors are used for this).

Before fixing the toilet to the floor, markings are made on the surface of the screed
specifically for dowels, into which hardware is then “driven”. The latter are usually included
included in the kit of the mounted device. If they are not available, special bolts for
Mounting the toilet to the floor can be purchased at a hardware store.

The order of further operations looks like this:

• First, the purchased toilet is placed on the already prepared place for fitting, and
  then traced along the contour with the same marker.
• Then the toilet is removed, and the marked area is coated with a sealing compound,
  onto which the previously prepared gasket is glued.
  Additional Information: in some cases it is possible to do without compaction, but for this, the surface of the floor in the toilet must first be well leveled.
• Before attaching the toilet to the prepared surface, you need to
  prepare holes for metal dowels, for which a drill with
  with a diameter slightly larger than the size of the hardware.
• Then the same holes are made at pre-marked points
  glued gasket.
• Now you can hammer the dowels into them and carefully install them on the gasket
  toilet for subsequent fixation.
• The bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor should be screwed in very carefully, without
  force, being careful not to damage the ceramics.

Violation of this rule when handling tools and hardware can lead to
the appearance of cracks or chips at fastening points.

This is unacceptable - the cup will then become unusable. After securing, proceed to connecting to the sewer, paying attention Special attention connecting the drain channel corrugation.

To form a tight connection, its ends are generously lubricated with silicone,
one of them is inserted into the socket sewer outlet, and the second one is put on
release neck. During installation, the joints are carefully pressed together with your palms,
which will allow the sealed composition to quickly absorb into the corrugation material and form
reliable contact.

To obtain a tight connection, the toilet flush area can be additionally sealed with metallized tape.

After all these operations are completed, it is time to connect the water supply
outlet, and the plumbing fixture is completely ready for use.

Fixation with glue

A reliable mount for the toilet bowl can also be created using an adhesive composition,
purchased in finished form or homemade.

This method is considered the simplest, but at the same time, fastening without bolts will require a lot of time (it takes 12–15 hours for the adhesive epoxy mixture to completely harden).

Another condition for obtaining reliable fastening is as follows. Before as
glue the toilet to the floor, you will need to carefully level the surface of the screed or
cover it thick floor tiles.

When figuring out how to glue a toilet to the floor or tile, preference is usually given to special epoxy resins prepared according to the instructions included with the composition.

Fastening method sanitary product for the adhesive composition is simple, for this
You will need to do the following preparatory operations:

• First, the working surfaces are cleaned of dust and remaining dirt.

Before gluing the toilet to the tile, it is advisable to give it a small
roughness, for which you can use coarse sandpaper - this technique helps improve the adhesion of the surfaces to be bonded.

• Next, they are degreased using a solvent or ordinary acetone, then
  You can proceed to preparing the glue. You can buy it in the store ready-made
  or cook it yourself.

To do this you will need: 100 parts of ED-6 resin, 200 parts of high-grade cement, 20 parts of solvent and 35 parts of hardener.

When preparing the adhesive composition, the sequence of actions is important, determining
the order in which individual components are added to it.

First of all, you should heat the resin to 50 degrees and add solvent to the thick solution. This is followed by the addition of a hardener and at the very end of the procedure cement is placed there. During the addition of components, the mixture must be continuously stirred, resulting in a homogeneous and thick plastic mass.

For better fixation of a plumbing fixture on a screed or tile surface
pre-clean and lubricate with a not very thick layer of prepared adhesive
mixtures.

Upon completion of installation, excess epoxy composition up to 4 mm thick, squeezed out by the mass of the device, is immediately removed with a damp cloth.

It is advisable to use the mixture prepared for installation within one and a half hours. Otherwise, it will harden and become unusable.

When installing the toilet, you should carefully ensure that its socket is located exactly opposite the sewer drain hole. If this is not observed, you need to forcefully press the base to the floor.

Upon completion of these operations, the device is left for approximately 12 hours, necessary for the final hardening of the adhesive composition. After the specified time has passed, you can proceed to connecting it to the water supply and sewerage system.

Taffeta fastening

When choosing fasteners for a toilet to the floor, take into account the possibility of installing it on wooden floor, which is usually required in private buildings. In this case, you will need a special gasket made from durable wood (called taffeta).

To make it, take a board 28–30 cm thick, corresponding in size
the shape of a toilet support stand. In order to protect its surface from moisture and destruction
covered with a layer of drying oil.

To properly install a toilet on tiles, follow our step by step instructions, equipped with photos and videos.

Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Total time: ~ 24 hours.

Preparing the room for installing a toilet

It is better to install a toilet in a completely renovated room, so as not to damage the plumbing. You must have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the drain tank.

Tools and materials required for proper installation

To install the toilet we will need the following tools and materials:

1. Adjustable wrench
2. Flexible hose
3. Fum tape
4. Pencil or felt-tip pen
5. Yardstick
6. Hammer
7. Dowels and bolts (must be included with the toilet)
8. Plumbing grease
9. Liquid silicone
10. Rubber spatula

How to properly install a toilet with your own hands

Step 1. Connection to the cistern

Shut off water access to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A faucet must be connected here. You can use an angle or straight tap according to your choice. Seal the threads on the tap with fum tape and screw the tap into the water outlet. If using an angle tap, screw it so that it faces down. Turn off the faucet valve.

Screw it on flexible liner to the tap outlet. It is not necessary to use fum tape, since the design of the flexible supply hose includes a sealing rubber band.

Step 2. Marking the toilet installation guide

To install the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along two marks. This line will be our guideline, determining the direction correct installation toilet.

Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain

If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening faces the toilet outlet pipe at a smoother angle.

Advice: To make it easier to connect two pipes, use plumber's lubricant. Apply it to inner surface drain hole (lubricate the rubber O-ring) and outer part corner pipe that will fit into the hole.

The sewer drain can be connected to the toilet outlet in two ways:

• hard plastic adapter;
• flexible corrugation.

In both cases, when inserting the connector, use plumber's lubricant as indicated above.

Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor

Advice: Do not pre-connect the tank to the toilet. You will learn later in the article when and how to connect the tank to the toilet.

Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the toilet support must be smooth and free of defects. Clean it if necessary with a sharp knife.

Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Refer to the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distances from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.

Connect the toilet pipe to the drain system adapter and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help you install it in the future without additional measurements. Also mark the locations of the mounting holes on both sides.

Step 5. Attaching the toilet to the tile floor

Move the toilet aside and drill holes in the tile for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Drive plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tiles.

Reinstall the toilet along the lines you drew and connect it to the sewer drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet into both mounting holes, but only halfway.

Step 6. Additional fastening of the toilet with liquid silicone

Raise the toilet 0.5-1 cm, place some supports in two or three places (use what you have on hand - plastic, pieces of tile, etc.). Very carefully insert white liquid silicone into the gap between the base of the toilet and the floor tiles. Do this around the entire perimeter of the toilet base. Lift the edges of the toilet with your hands and add silicone as you remove the stands. The silicone should be distributed evenly around the entire perimeter of the toilet base and create a generous “cushion”.

Lower the toilet and tighten the mounting screws completely by hand (without excessive force). Remove excess silicone that appears on the outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a beautiful edging around the entire perimeter of the base.

You need to wait a few hours (see the silicone hardening time on the packaging), and only then continue to install the toilet.

How to install a toilet flush mechanism

On the main thread drain device put on the gasket and insert it into the technological hole of the drain tank. WITH reverse side Tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.

Advice: We recommend installing a shut-off device that controls the flow of water into the flush tank after installing the flush tank on the toilet. This will make tightening the mounting screws more convenient - you will not be disturbed by the extra mechanism inside the tank.

When installing the shut-off device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose fits. Remove any rough edges to ensure a tight connection. Paste locking device into the hole intended for it in the tank and tighten it on the reverse side with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools; tighten the nut by hand.

How to install a flush cistern on a toilet

Once the silicone is completely cured and assembled drain mechanism tank, you can begin installing it on the toilet.

Between the flush cistern and the base of the toilet it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (included with the toilet). Then slide the tank onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet line up with the holes on the tank. The connecting screws should have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone washer. Insert the mounting screws into the holes in the drain tank and use plastic nuts (horns) to tighten them on the other side. When tightening the screws, make sure the tank is horizontal.

Screw the flexible hose supplying water to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of fum tape, since the connection will occur through a rubber gasket.

The installation of the flush tank on the toilet is completed, you can open the tap and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.

Place the lid on the drain tank so that all elements of the trigger mechanism fit into the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this stage, the installation of the toilet cistern is complete.

How to install a toilet seat and toilet seat

The simplest thing remains. Place the seat on the toilet and insert the mounting screws into the holes. Without special effort tighten the screws on the back of the toilet with nuts. The toilet seat installation is complete.

Video lesson: How to properly install a toilet on a tiled floor in a toilet

The work is completed. You installed the toilet yourself and rest assured, you did it right!

Now it is difficult to imagine a bathroom without this product. You can install a toilet different ways, for example, on your own or with the help of professionals. Many people think that such an installation is something complicated and troublesome, which is what service companies take advantage of. The cost of work varies depending on the city and the organization itself. Moreover, most companies attach toilets only with standard fasteners. The price for their services starts from 1200 rubles.

Private plumbers or novice plumbers will offer their services cheaper. But the quality of work in this case will already be in question. However, if you understand the materials and the sequence of actions, it turns out that there is nothing complicated here, and you can do it yourself. And the cost of work will not be high.

Device Features

Before proceeding with the actual installation, it is worth getting acquainted with the types of toilets. They can be conditionally divided according to such characteristics as the shape of the tank, the shape of the bowl and tank, the material of manufacture, as well as the drainage angle.

Tank shape

• Compact– this look is in the toilet of each of us. It is easy to maintain and flushes more quietly than other types. But it has little pressure. The tank is mounted on a special ledge, bolted to the back of the toilet and adjacent to the wall.
• Monoblock- this is a single whole, a bowl and a tank. They cannot leak at the joints. But if the tank or bowl is damaged, the device must be replaced completely, because they cannot be taken apart into individual parts. In addition, the model requires more space than a compact or mounted one.
• Separated– Occasionally found in old houses. The barrel is mounted almost to the ceiling. Connects to the bowl with a long pipe. This design has a powerful water pressure when draining. Occupies less space due to the high location of the tank. It is still in production, but it costs a lot, because it is sold as an exclusive product in retro style.

• With hidden tank(the bowl itself can be hinged) - the tank is installed inside the wall, and the bowl is located outside. The entire structure is supported by a metal frame, which is hidden under tiles or drywall. It looks very nice, but is difficult to repair. If there are problems with the tank, you will have to break down the wall.

However, in small rooms where every centimeter counts, this type best option. Allows you to save half a measure of space due to the niche in the wall where the tank is hidden.

• Combined with bidet– has a built-in small tap. Various manufacturers offer many shapes and sizes. Installing such a device will be more complicated than a regular toilet.

Bowl shape

• Visors- the most frequently used. The water leaves smoothly, at an angle, so unpleasant odors are not delayed, nor are the contents. The name comes from the protrusion that prevents water from splashing during flushing and provides the necessary slope for flushing from the walls of the toilet.
• Funnel-shaped– there is a funnel in the center of the bowl, which is why flushing occurs very quickly and thoroughly, but it protects from splashes worse than a visor.
• Disc-shaped- an outdated type that is no longer available. Inside the bowl there is a flat shelf for storing bowel products. Although this design was splash-free, it was cleaned only under running water. Another disadvantage of the species is the rapid spread of smell.

Manufacturing materials

• Faience– affordable. But not durable. It has a porous structure, which makes it difficult to clean. Service life 15 years. Much inferior in quality to other materials.
• Porcelain– more expensive than earthenware, because production costs, but more reliable and durable. Easy to clean and has long term services. Nowadays ceramics are more often used, which are covered with more thin layer glaze, but cheaper to produce.

• Steel– everyone has seen such toilets in train toilets. They are durable and wear-resistant, easy to clean. Not the cheapest in price.
• Reinforced acrylic– this type consists of plastic, practically without a porous structure, and therefore the most hygienic. But they don't hold up well high temperatures and very fragile. Most often they are found in shopping centers due to their low cost.

Drain angle

• Oblique- suitable if the sewer outlet is at floor level or slightly higher. The angle of inclination can be different - 30, 40, 60, 75 degrees. Choose one that fits well.
• Horizontal- convenient if a drain pipe hidden behind the wall. Suitable if the sewer outlet is 10-15 cm above the floor level.
• Vertical- was common in houses with sewerage in the interfloor ceilings. If the sewer outlet is directed upwards and it is hidden in the floor.

Regardless of how you are going to fix the toilet to the floor, you first need to make some preparations:

• Prepare the installation site. Clean and degrease the tiles or dismantle old toilet and level the surface.
• Assemble the tank before installing the toilet (applies to the compact). Follow the manufacturer's instructions that came with the model.
• If you connect to the old one cast iron riser, dry it first and clean it in order to avoid leakage problems in the future.
• Prepare all tools for assembly and installation in advance.

Installation methods

Depending on the materials used, there are different types of installation.

• On standard fasteners. That is, dowels; they are usually included when purchasing the product. The main difficulty is to tighten the bolts evenly on both sides without overtightening them.
• For glue. Here we will talk about epoxy resin or sealant. Simple and effective method fastening to a ceramic surface. Even a beginner can handle it, even if you have underfloor heating.
• On cement mortar, or tile adhesive based on it. A significant disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of dismantling plumbing, for example, during remodeling or clogging.

It is difficult to make such fasteners to a wooden covering.

Mounting on standard fasteners

You can glue the toilet to tiled floor. However, in order to more reliably strengthen the structure, experts recommend additionally using a special screw.

Materials and tools

The standard set supplied by the manufacturer contains:

• screws 2-4 pcs. and plastic dowels;
• washers for laying between the screws and the toilet at the fastening points;
• decorative caps.

You will also need additional tools:

• hammer, marker, pliers and screwdriver, keys;
• a hammer drill with a drill to match the size of the dowels;
• tile drill 1-2 mm larger than dowels;
• glue: “liquid nails”, silicone sealant, epoxy resin;
• corrugation (if the toilet outlet does not coincide with the socket) or cuff (if the outlet does not coincide).

Work order

You should strictly adhere to the installation procedure.

It consists of several stages.

• Place the toilet where it will sit all the time and draw a marking by tracing the outline of the base with a marker on the floor. Mark dots at the fastening points.
• Drill holes for the dowels on the floor.
• Place the toilet clearly on the marked marking line.
• Check that the holes do not move and drive the dowels into them.
• Apply sealant to the edge of the sewer pipe and insert a cuff or corrugation into it. The sealant will protect against odors entering the house and leaks.

• Screw the toilet until it stops moving. There is no need to overtighten the bolts. Remember to tighten evenly. Be sure to use plastic washers. Without them, metal bolts can chip parts of the earthenware or even crack the base.
• Place the tank. First, lay a gasket on the toilet shelf, and install the tank itself on top of it, tightening it with bolts.
• If the tank has a separate shelf, do not transfer its weight to the toilet ears - they are too fragile. Support it either from below or from behind, thereby distributing its weight.
• To avoid clogging the filter in the tank when you first turn on the water, first pour a little directly into the toilet through the tube.

Glue installation

The two most common adhesive composition- This is silicone sealant and epoxy resin. They are easy to use - you just need to know how to handle a glue gun correctly. This method is easier than bolting. There is no risk of splitting the product when overtightening the bolts, or damaging the toilet tiles. A toilet installed on glue will definitely not wobble. Side gluing is also possible.

In addition to glue, you will also need:

• ammonia;
• tape measure and triangular ruler;
• narrow spatula;
• sandpaper;
• pencil or marker.

• Carefully apply glue from the syringe to the edge of the support. If there is a lot of glue, it will be visible on the edges and will stain the tiles, but if there is not enough glue, then the toilet will not stand firmly.
• Place the toilet bowl with glue applied at the marking location. It is important to place it perfectly precisely so that the tile does not have to move it.
• Spray the floor around the base of the toilet with soapy water to prevent excess caulk from sticking to the tiles when removing excess caulk.
• Remove remaining glue from the floor with a narrow spatula dipped in the same soap solution.
• Do not move or touch the toilet for 12-24 hours to allow the glue time to dry.
• Install the tank, connect the water supply to it and connect the outlets to the sewer after the adhesive has dried. The finishing touch There will be fastening of the lid and seat.

How to fix with cement mortar?

This method is convenient if new toilet installed in place of the dismantled old one. Or if there are no other tools and glue at home to place the product differently. Instead of cement mortar, you can use ready-made tile adhesive based on it. This tool is universal and can be used to attach many structures in the bathroom, for example, a shower block.

Tools you will need:

• narrow and medium spatulas;
• building level;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• concrete solution;
• masking tape.

Installation is carried out in strict sequence.

• Place the toilet where it will be permanently installed. Check that all structural elements fit together.
• Use a marker to outline the base of the toilet seat and move it to the side.
• Apply notches to the tile using a chisel and hammer along the marker line. Be careful not to split the tiles. Protect your eyes from splinters and dust with special glasses.
• Instead of notches, you can stick masking tape on the outlined line. It is important that it does not go beyond the edges of the contour. Its rough surface will also adhere well to cement.
• Dilute sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. If there is no sand, then you can just use cement. You will need 3-4 kg of tile adhesive, it will be more convenient than cement - it is more quickly effective and has a convenient powder form, compared to concrete, which may contain large fractions of sand.

Modern technologies for the manufacture of plumbing fixtures make it possible to fill the market building materials various models of toilets.

Sanitary fixtures differ in modifications of the flush tanks, materials of manufacture (porcelain, earthenware), fastening devices, location of the water supply and drain outlet. In most cases, bathrooms and toilet rooms are tiled.

Walls and floors are covered with tiles. How to fix a toilet on a tiled floor so that it stands firmly on its base? In this article we will give the reader information on how best to do this.

Preparatory work before installing the toilet

Find a comfortable toilet pipe length

The drain sink is installed when the work on the walls and floor is completed ceramic tiles.

If you install the plumbing first, and then start installing the ceramic floor covering, you will have to deal with rather complex cutting in the slabs to contour the base of the pedestal of the plumbing fixture.

This will cause a risk of damage to the cladding if the selection of cut tiles is unsuccessful.

When tiling walls and floors with ceramic tiles, you need to achieve a comfortable protrusion length from the wall water pipe.

The outlet of the water pipe must be such that a shut-off valve can be installed.

The sewer drain can protrude from both the wall and the floor. The sewer socket must provide a tight connection with the corrugation.

Required tools and materials

To successfully complete the task, you should have patience and prepare the following set of tools:

• perforator, drill;
• marker;
• drills for glass and ceramics;
• screwdrivers;
• sealant;
• spanners;
• adjustable wrench and sockets with collar;
• dowels with self-tapping screws;
• pliers;
• corrugated pipe;
• tap;
• core;
• grinder with abrasive wheel;
• connecting hose.

Related article: Interior in electric style. Stylish furniture and soft tissues.

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor

Toilet installation

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor can be done in different ways, depending on the position of the mounting holes in the sink pedestal.

There are three options for attaching a plumbing fixture to a ceramic floor covering:

Installation of a toilet with vertical mounting

Most drain sink models are made with mounting holes for vertical fasteners. Installation of the sink is carried out in several stages:

Before installing the toilet, check the horizontal position of the installation site. If no deviations are identified, then the base of the pedestal and the tiles along the contour of the sink support are not cleaned.

Lateral fixation of the toilet

Installing a toilet with side mounting holes is somewhat different from installing a sink with vertical fasteners.

The difference is that the mounting parts are hidden under the pedestal of the device.

Install this model of the device as follows:

Gluing the toilet base

This installation method is used if the base of the floor is equipped with a heating system. There is a risk of damage heating equipment when drilling mounting holes. For more information about the work, watch this video:

In this case, cleaning the base of the pedestal and the surface of the ceramic tiles along the contour of the toilet support is mandatory. This is done to increase the adhesion of the bonded surfaces.

Press the toilet firmly to the floor

Gluing a toilet bowl to a tiled surface liquid nails. The surfaces are covered with glue, then they are pressed against each other.

The toilet is removed from the installation site and placed on its side. Maintain the time specified in the instructions. Then set the sink in place and press it to the floor.

The remaining installation work is performed in the same way as in previous cases.

You can begin installing a toilet on a tiled floor yourself only if you have the skills and experience in this type of work.

Some plumbing fixtures begin to work worse after prolonged use. A common problem with toilets is loose fixation. Because of this, it is inconvenient to use a wobbly device. You can secure the toilet so that it does not wobble with your own hands if you have some skills in handling tools. There are several ways to do this.

Features of plumbing installation

Plumbing fixtures are installed based on the installation instructions supplied with them. During construction or overhaul This work is performed by professional plumbers. Later, after moving in, many residents independently make their own adjustments to the bathroom design and change the appliance to another one.

To perform such work efficiently, it is important to know what methods of securing the device to the flooring exist and how to perform them correctly. Installation features are directly related to the configuration of the plumbing. Typically used in household bathrooms compact models, installed on the floor. The mounting of such plumbing fixtures varies.

Reasons for a loose toilet

Before fixing the device to the flooring surface, it is important to determine the reason for the loosening of the plumbing fixtures. There are usually several of them, but they come down to three main ones:

• uneven floor coverings;
• plumbing installed with errors;
• defects and irregularities on the bottom surface of the bowl.

Bathroom floors are usually covered with a concrete base, but there are also wood options. Due to the loss of seating density of the fastening screws during operation, the wooden covering The toilet starts to wobble. Sometimes cracks form where the screws are attached to the boards. This is what most often causes loss of stability.

Sometimes the surface concrete screed poured in violation. This leads to deformation and differences in floor height. This also makes the toilet “walk”. In some cases, the cause of unreliable fastening is non-compliance with the toilet installation technology.

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Fastening plumbing fixtures to a wooden floor

If the bathroom floor is made of wooden planks, the loose plumbing fixture is not fixed back in its original location. It is correct to move the device slightly to the side and screw it in a new place. In this case, it is recommended to drill holes for reliable fixation, the location of which coincides with the mounting holes and secure with screws.

There is no need to try to tighten loose screws in the same place if the floor is made of planks. This will lead to cracking of the device itself. To make installation easier, it is better to make the supply line to the sewerage system from the toilet flexible.

Securing the toilet to a concrete floor

It is much more difficult to fix the problem if flooring It has concrete base. In old buildings from the USSR, the devices were installed on concrete floors with embedded boards. In this case, to improve fastening, perform the following steps:

1. They shut down the system.
2. Disconnect the sewer drain pipe.
3. Remove the bolts securing the plumbing fixtures to the floor.

Important!

Further work is carried out carefully so as not to damage the fragile material of the old toilet.

To eliminate the damage, the old backing board is removed and new lumber of considerable thickness is laid in its place. You can simply clear this place and concrete it.

After the concrete has hardened, plumbing installation is carried out in the following order:

1. By placing the toilet on in the right area, mark the points where it will be attached.
2. The plumbing fixtures are removed and holes are made in the marked area using a hammer drill.
3. The device is secured with bolts.
4. Reinstall the drain tank.
5. Connect plumbing with sewer pipes corrugated eyeliner.

Installation on ceramic tiles

IN modern apartments The floor in the bathroom is usually made of tiles. Then the plumbing has a backlash when the tiles are not level and have differences. This type of defect is the most difficult to eliminate. After all, in order to get rid of the wobbling of the plumbing fixture, you must first eliminate the unevenness of the floor. It is impossible to do this without dismantling the tiles.

Therefore, to begin with, the problem is eliminated by placing a plastic gasket under the base of the plumbing fixture. Such devices are sold in construction stores and are quite inexpensive. If this option does not bring the desired result and the instability continues, dismantle the tiles and lay the covering again.

Important!

Silicone sealant is sometimes used as a gasket. They coat the area of ​​the tiled floor where the device should be located. When the material is completely dry, install it. This method helps to temporarily solve the problem of a wobbly device.

How to attach a toilet to the floor

To do the job efficiently, the master will need the following tools:

• hammer drill for construction work with several drills of different sizes;
• hand drill along with a set of drills different diameters for ceramic tiles;
• sandpaper with different sizes grains;
• rubber spatulas of different sizes;
• mechanical hand press;
• screwdrivers, bench wrenches and other tools.

Additionally you will need the following materials:

• plastic dowels of different diameters;
• metal screws or screws;
• several spacers for screws;
• construction adhesive;
• cement and sand;
• rubber sheet 15 mm thick;
• boards 25 mm thick.

Standard toilet fastening involves drilling holes in the floor for dowels. Then make 4 holes. If the device is mounted with screws, then only 2 holes need to be made. Difficulties are caused by drilling openings when the floor is covered with ceramic tiles. Due to awkward movement or incorrect selection of tools, the tiles easily crack.

Important!

It is necessary to drill ceramics with a drill designed for this purpose, setting the rotation speed of the device to low. During operation, the pressure on the tool should be light.

When fixing the device to cement mortar, it is important to properly prepare the working mixture so that the connection is of high quality. To do this, take 1 part of M200 cement and add 2 parts of sand.

Securing the toilet with screws

To secure the toilet to the toilet floor in the standard way with screws, perform the following steps sequentially:

1. The exact position of the sole is determined on the toilet floor.
2. Marks are placed in the center of the holes.
3. Using a special tile drill, make recesses the size of which corresponds to the thickness of the tile.
4. Then they take a concrete drill and bring the excavations to a depth of 70 mm.
5. Insert dowels into the resulting recesses.
6. The toilet is placed in the required place so as to align the mounting holes of the plumbing with similar ones in the floor.
7. Connect the device to the sewer with a corrugated pipe.
8. Secure the plumbing fixtures to the floor with screws from the installation kit.

Having completed this work, you need to additionally ensure the tightness of the connection. corrugated pipe with sewer inlet and toilet pipe. To do this, use any sealant. Then, if there is one, the gap between the toilet sole and the floor is cosmetically sealed.