A milling machine is a professional woodworking tool that requires special installation. For installation, a milling table can be used, which is rarely found on sale, and those that are on the market cost big money. Therefore, it is much easier to make a milling table with your own hands. It is the presence of a special machine that allows you to optimize the work as much as possible, make it safe and process workpieces more quickly. This is due to the fact that it is not the tool (milling cutter) that moves along the material being processed, but the part that moves along the resulting machine. Below we will describe how to make a homemade milling table.
From choosing a table for milling machine The quality of work largely depends.
Selecting material and type of table
Professional craftsmen who do carpentry always try to make themselves specialized machine for milling. It not only simplifies the work, but also allows you to make more accurate and accurate cuts that will not differ from factory ones. Many foreign companies offer some models of specialized machines for milling, but these models are either not well thought out (not ergonomic and inconvenient) or cost a lot of money, which will take a long time to pay off. Homemade machine, made for yourself, will save money and will be convenient during operation. To make a machine for yourself, you must first decide on the type of its design.
MDF boards or wood of various species are usually used as a tabletop for a milling table.
In principle, all types of machines can be divided into 3 types:
- free-standing (personal, non-portable);
- portable (small portable);
- expandable (stand - wing to table).
Deciding on the type is quite simple, for which you need to know the operating time on the machine. For continuous and long-term work, you should choose a separate machine. If you rarely use the tool, a portable one will do. An attachment or wing to the table is suitable if there is little free space. To the advantages separately standing desk It is worth mentioning that when working with the tool for a long time, it can not be turned off.
For the manufacture of machines, you can use MDF boards (for the table top), pine boards (relatively cheap material) or boards made of any other material. It is much easier to use MDF. This is the cheapest material for furniture production and is easy to process. If it allows financial opportunity, then preference should be given to natural wood.
Special mention must be made about metal. Some people consider metal to be the most durable material, and they are right. Metal is much stronger than wood, but it has significant disadvantages. For example, it is an ideal conductor, so it is not recommended to mount an electrical device on such a surface. Another drawback is the weight. You should be concerned about the strength of the legs, which must withstand not only the surface of the table, but also the sum of the masses of the tool, parts and workpieces, and the weight of a person. Moreover, in winter unheated room the metal will be cold and create discomfort for the working master; the metal may rust. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to avoid metal.
Design details
To make a good multifunctional table, you should know the operating principle of the router.
In order to do good machine, you need to know how the router works and how best to process workpieces with it.
Thus, a milling cutter is primarily used for processing the longitudinal edge of a part. If it is necessary to mill grooves across the workpiece, it is recommended to provide a special groove in the design for the stop-carriage. In addition to the above-described function, additional clamps can be attached to the groove for better processing blanks.
A stop placed longitudinally, which will serve as a guide for the materials being processed, will significantly simplify the work. This stop must be perfectly flat and even, the working plane of the stop must be perpendicular to the plane of the table surface, and the stop itself must be movable. The latter is required to adjust to the dimensions of the parts being processed. With proper manufacturing of such a stop, the machine will be able not only to mill, but also to joint (plane) materials. A groove should be provided in the stop that will allow installation auxiliary tools. It can also be equipped with mounts for a vacuum cleaner hose, which, when working as a blower, will allow you to quickly clean the surface being treated from shavings and sawdust, improving visibility.
A properly made milling table with metal plates will allow you to quickly change the cutter if necessary.
But the most important thing is the method of attaching the router. To fasten tools, metal tabletops are usually used, which are in the form of a small plate that is attached to the tabletop. The router is attached to this plate with screws or bolts in specially made holes. Using such a mini-surface will save up to 1 cm in milling depth, you can quickly dismantle (install) the tool and fix the tool more smoothly to the metal tabletop.
The speed of removing the router from such a plate will allow you to very quickly replace the cutter on it. There is also a gain in terms of fastening. So, if to attach a tool to wooden tabletop very careful leveling of the surface is required, it is necessary to drill holes in the right places, which for another model of the tool may not be suitable both in diameter and in terms of attachment points, but in the case of a metal mini-surface, the surface of the boards is leveled only at the place where the metal sheet is attached, points The mounts will always be static, which will allow you to quickly change the tool if necessary. Each router has its own mounting points, so before installing it, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with its drawings.
Installing the router using the drawings is not difficult - just drill holes, maintaining the dimensions (distances between them).
Table manufacturing procedure
A properly assembled milling table allows you to process a variety of surfaces.
A primitive homemade table may look like this: a tabletop made of MDF, fixed on 4 legs, on (under) which a tool is installed, a board is fixed on the tabletop - a guide, which can be fixed to the table with clamps. This is the simplest option. However, it is irrational, because part of the table top (at least 50%) will not be used during the work; in addition, there is a high probability of uneven installation of the router, which will cut uneven grooves. It is more rational to use this design on the folding wing of the table. This will significantly save space in the workshop and rationally use work surface.
The next option differs from the previous one in its advanced capabilities. So, a hole is made in the middle of the table for mounting the tool, a guide board is made with a groove for processing thin workpieces, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a groove is made (at some distance from the router), which will allow the workpiece to be milled at an angle.
The portable machine is very easy to iron. Small legs are attached to the tabletop (size equal to length milling cutter +5-7 cm). The dimensions of the tabletop itself are minimal, allowing you to install only a router +15-20 cm. This option will be mobile (portable), but it will be inconvenient to work on it for a long time. This mini-machine is suitable for extremely rare tool use.
Individual workplace
Let's consider making a “serious” table for a router.
First, it’s worth talking about the sizes. On average, the size can be 1 x 1 or 1 x 0.7 (0.8) m. This will not only allow you to work comfortably on the table, but also place other auxiliary items on it. A frame (legs, which should be attached not only to the tabletop, but also have an additional tie) is knocked under the tabletop.
Then they work on the tabletop. To make it, you need to knock down boards (under right size), carefully plan them with a plane and sand them with sandpaper so that there is an almost smooth surface. Then plywood is glued onto the tabletop. This will make the surface almost perfectly flat. To prevent the plywood from peeling off under the influence of vibrations, it should be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. When the glue dries and the plywood is secured to the tabletop with self-tapping screws, a hole is cut in the middle of the tabletop for mounting the router. The hole must have rectangular shape and have dimensions equal to the size of the router + 50-100 mm in length and width.
The surface of the milling table top should be flat and smooth.
The next step is to prepare a metal plate to which the router will be attached. It should have a size equal to the size of the hole + 2.5-3 cm in length and width. Tool mounting points are determined locally.
Next, you should install a guide board or stop. The latter is preferable. It is better to make the stop movable (as described above) and double so that it can be used to clamp the material. Mobility is ensured by grooves along the entire length of the table into which metal guides are inserted. An anchor is made on the stops themselves, which will fit into the guides. It can be cut out of wood or wheels can be attached to a stop.
For ease of work, grooves are cut into the tabletop, which will allow you to process workpieces at an angle. Their width and distance between them is determined by the master. Several drawers for tools can be attached to the bed. So that the table has a pleasant appearance, you should make slopes on the table top and legs. and also varnish all surfaces.
Such a table will allow you to quickly process workpieces without straining, which will make the time of wood processing enjoyable.
Milling table will make your work easier and help increase the accuracy of workpiece processing. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for hand router with your own hands using woodworking skills. We have prepared quite detailed information for you step by step instructions for making a table.
The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and implement it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, you will get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.
Decide on the size of the working surface, based on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop, incorporating upgradeability into the design. Work on it and little by little bring it to mind.
Make a table top
The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate placed on carpentry trestles or between pedestals. The device costs pennies and can be manufactured in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood thickness 19-25 mm. Better fit a plastic-coated panel that provides less frictional resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during use.
Set the exact right angle of cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to size and sand the ends.
Cutting diagram: 1 - main plate; 2 — support base; 3 — front wall of the stop; 4 — gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 — drawer (2 pcs.); 6 — side bar; 7 — connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Advice. Measure the thickness before cutting sheet material, often different from the standard. Amend the drawings to eliminate problems when assembling the structure.
Remove the plastic cover from the router base.
Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.
Place the pad so that later the main router controls are closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the cover with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling holes for the mounting screws.
Determine the center location for the sole with equally spaced screws.
For a base with asymmetrically placed screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.
Mark a mark with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:
- S = D / 2 - (D - H)
Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.
Mark the locations of the mounting screws.
Drill holes for mounting and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.
Cut out the bends with an electric jig saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly short of the marking line. Then move the file a little closer to the contour line - pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.
Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.
Glue all the pieces together and secure them with additional screws. Select screws that are longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the slab.
1 — side strip for fastening with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 — countersunk guide holes; 4 — front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base
Fasten the table to the trestles with clamps, secure the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.
Make a solid base
The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on a rack, and for work it is fixed on a workbench. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the tabletop and get a full-fledged machine.
Cut the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for the 820 mm high table, or change them so that the table top is level with other equipment.
Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 — inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base
Place the tabletop with the back side facing up. Install sequentially side panels and screw them with screws, pre-drilling the guide holes. Secure the base, place the frame front side down, align the right corners and install the two back panels.
Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the body using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads no closer than 20 mm from the edges.
1 — side stand; 2 — wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 — internal stand; 5 - rear panel
Use free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.
Embed the mounting plate
Get a longer cutter reach by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate.
Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from the sheet and place it on the workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. Using a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate, using the plastic trim as a template. Remove the sole, use a countersink or a large drill to make indentations for the caps.
Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and use a hole saw to make a hole at the mark.
Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Straighten the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.
Secure thin boards around the marked outline with clamps.
Clamp the copy cutter with the bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer adjustment of the router and make the final pass.
Drill through holes for screws and widen them with reverse side table tops with an 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts with epoxy glue, aligning with the screws.
Customize mounting plate under the cutout, put it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink with front side. Attach the part to the router base, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the tabletop; if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.
Improve your focus
For faster and more convenient machine setup, upgrade the parallel side fence and add a rotary fence to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum T-profile guides into the surface of the slab. To make cutouts in the tabletop, use a router or circular saw with groove disc.
Lightly round with sandpaper top corners grooves Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, and countersink them. Place the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten countersunk screws.
Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, select hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.
Install a guide profile in the front stop bar to secure clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.
Cut a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, secure it to the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter fitting and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the router table.
Add a safety shield made from plywood scraps and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.
To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangents and make cuts with a jigsaw.
Make homemade clamps and clamps necessary for milling small elements.
The comb clamp can be made from maple wood, choosing a section with a straight grain pattern. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular saw:
- Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
- Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
- Make a cut.
- Pull the workpiece back with a hand pusher.
- Turn the board 180° and saw through the other side.
- Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
- Move the stop back again and make cuts throughout the entire workpiece.
Secure the clamps to the guide using bolts and wing nuts.
1 - stopper; 2 — comb clamp; 3 — protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - pipe for vacuum cleaner
Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially in areas where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat it with oil.
1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop
Let's summarize the project
Materials needed:
- Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
- Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
- Several dozen screws.
- Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
- Wood glue and epoxy.
- M6 bolts with nuts.
The ability to take your time and think through each step, to accurately mark and cut out blanks, or the desire to learn this came in handy. The result is a high-quality milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.
Usually, to perform some new work, new tools are required. As a programmer, I am very familiar with this, since for many years I have had to create libraries and write utilities for each new task. These are the very tools with which solving the following problems becomes simpler and easier. This is probably true in many areas, except those where you have to create everything from scratch, using only knowledge and skills. (Maybe this is why I don’t really like to draw, for example, because I’m used to using previous developments).
I finally finished my router table. (It took 7 evenings to create). At first I thought of buying a ready-made one, but the ones I found for affordable money and suitable for my work did not suit me at all. And I decided to make it myself using the hand router that I had Caliber FE-650E.
A milling table is a very useful handicraft tool. I hadn’t thought much about this before, but if you look around in any house, you can see many objects that have been processed on the milling table: window frames, furniture doors, picture frames, wooden skirting boards, door frames, trims, etc.
First, as usual, I modeled it in a 3D program. I didn’t copy someone else’s table, but developed a model for myself, having seen a bunch of ready-made similar milling tables on the Internet. The idea is general, the essence is the same, the details differ, because... everyone realizes it for themselves, using what they have and what they are capable of.
The side stop has slotted grooves and can move back and forth and is fixed in the desired position with two wings. A chip discharger is connected to the angle stop. (The milling cutter produces a lot of chips during operation) If required, the side stop can be easily removed and replaced with other devices or nothing at all.
The stop has two doors that can move apart and slide depending on the size of the cutter. The position of each door is fixed with thumbs.
A regular vacuum cleaner hose is connected to the chip discharger.
This router model did not have fine depth adjustment. It was necessary to press on the router and use a clamp to catch the desired depth. (It should be noted that this is terribly inconvenient. You have to struggle with rearranging the depth several times to get to the right one)
I modified the frame by adding a so-called “elevator”.
I drilled the frame and installed an adjusting screw with a high nut (in the picture in the center). By tightening the nut, you can smoothly adjust the depth.
This is how the depth is adjusted: set desired value on the square, and using a wrench, lift the cutter until it stops against the square.
The only remaining inconvenience is that this procedure requires two hands. You need to press the depth lock on the router with one hand and turn the nut with the other. I have a solution, but haven't had time to implement it yet. When I do it, I can adjust the depth with one hand. And the clamp to hold the corner will no longer be needed.
note that top part The side support is specially designed so that various devices can be attached to it.
In general, there are ready-made sites for the manufacture of milling tables on sale. There are some with holes for specific models of the router, and there are universal ones in which you can drill holes for your model yourself. The platforms are quite expensive (1500-5000 rubles) and are much larger in size than required for my mini-table.
I made my own platform for the router from plexiglass (6mm), removing the original one plastic platform from the router bed.
Fitting the glass to the window.
First samples.
The stand for the cutters is processed by the cutter on the left. I processed the planks for her
By the way, a cutter with a roller does not require a side stop. This way you can process the edges on a bare table, although it is still more convenient to have another point of emphasis, especially when processing cylindrical workpieces.
What I have left to finish:
- Cut a couple of glasses to install larger diameter cutters.
- Make clamping devices that are installed on the side stop and table top, ensuring tight pressure of the workpiece to the cutter.
- Improve the convenient key that regulates the depth of the cutter.
- Workpiece advance limiters (on the side stop).
- Special paw-pushers for the workpiece (A router is a dangerous tool. If I seriously injure my hands, it will be especially bad for me, because after that I will not be able to play most musical instruments).
- Special stop for working with edge cutters.
- Angular stop with a protractor, a device that allows you to move the workpiece at a certain angle using a rail.
- Sleds for feeding the workpiece along the table at a right angle.
- A device for cutting "box joints".
- Trap container for chips. (The original vacuum cleaner bag gets clogged very quickly)
- Well, and some other little things.
I hope that this post will be found by those who may find it useful.
Other interesting posts about my homemade tools:
I made this table from 18 mm. plywood. It is thick enough to make the structure very durable. To strengthen the structural elements I used metal corner cross section 40X40 mm.
The tabletop has dimensions of 800x500 mm. A hole is cut in the center to the size of the router sole. The sides are attached to the tabletop at the corners using self-tapping screws. The bottom sidewalls are also connected using corners and self-tapping screws. 4 holes of 10 mm are drilled in the tabletop. and driven nuts for fastening the combs are installed. The right side has a fork and a switch for convenient starting of the router. The "Start" button on the router itself is locked.
The milling cutter base is screwed to a 2 mm thick steel plate. and size 200X200 mm. A recess is made in the tabletop and the plate is placed flush on top, attached to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is cut in the center of the plate.
A car jack is used to raise and lower the router. It is attached to the base of the table with self-tapping screws. The handle has been replaced with a homemade flywheel for smoother adjustment. The jack is not attached to the router in any way.
The guide ruler is also made of plywood. Assembled with Moment Joiner glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws. In the middle part of the line there is a box with a hole for attaching the vacuum cleaner pipe. Adjustment grooves are cut out on the sides of the ruler. 10 mm bolts are inserted into the tabletop, the ruler is attached to the bolts using eye nuts.
The combs are cut from fir and serve to press the workpiece more tightly against the guide. Grooves are cut into the comb for moving along the tabletop. To secure the combs to the tabletop, bolts with bushings are used.
To prevent the workpiece from moving up and down, a special spring stop is made of plywood. It is attached to the guide ruler using wing nuts.
That's the whole structure. You can see more details about this table in my film.
A milling machine is purchased for many carpentry jobs. But sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need to reconstruct the workplace. A do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router is a great opportunity save money cash and create a high-quality work surface for yourself. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and in Everyday life this tool is quite useful. And more convenient working conditions will make him simply irreplaceable.
Milling table
An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple milling table with his own hands even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If you have decided to try yourself in this area for the first time, then do not despair; if you wish, you can make a table for a hand router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose perfect sizes, which are necessary specifically for your premises. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.
Milling table drawing
A homemade milling table is in no way distinguishable from a store-bought version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move along the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If this type make the processing stationary, then the master will spend much less time and effort on the work.
A DIY router table takes up a certain amount of space in the room. Therefore, before installation, decide what kind of table you want to see:
- aggregate;
- removable;
- stationary.
Aggregate Portable Stationary
Remember that most work can only be performed in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because for rare use a portable model is quite suitable, and for daily use - a stationary one workplace.
What parts does a milling table consist of?
A homemade milling table can be made alone, without resorting to outside help. To do this, it is necessary to manufacture all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become practically useless, since it will not perform its main duties. The DIY router consists of the following parts:
- countertops;
- beds;
- hem support;
- pressing combs;
- mounting plate.
The tabletop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Great for this kitchen countertops, or, if this is not available, ordinary plywood. Just remember that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional means can be used to make the surface smoother, for more comfortable work. You need to make a hole in the center to install the router.
Milling table drawings cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the instrument. For this you can use old bedside tables and tables, but provided that they are very durable. Some focus their attention on metal models, which is quite practical.
Milling table from an old bedside table
The hem stop, fixed to the tabletop, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made motionless for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is very important element in work, since the quality of the cutter’s work will depend on the evenness of all sides.
Pressing combs on the table for a circular saw and a router are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will encounter in his work.
Experts advise immediately installing sliding ridges and stops, then the functionality of the working machine will increase significantly.
Assembly Rules
Assembling a milling table with your own hands should be done in stages. First you need to decide on the tabletop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material supply control systems are attached.
In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment down to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.
The milling machine itself must be firmly secured under the tabletop. It should not dangle or hang; any movements can lead to injury during operation or equipment breakdown. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.
The main thing in this method work is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all dimensions, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.
Electronics at work
It’s quite easy to make a circular and milling table with your own hands, but don’t forget that this tool works from electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be located in an inconvenient place for the master, care must be taken to use them. You can make an exit and install buttons to start and stop the mechanism in convenient location, but this requires knowledge in electronics.
Eat Alternative option, which is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is pressed, and it is in a constantly on state, stopping only by the cable when disconnected from the network.
A new milling table made by yourself must fully comply floor covering workplace. If the floors are uneven, you should make the legs with movable mechanism, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the router table to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.
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2
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Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. Install on the longitudinal stop protective glass, which will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.
When making a milling table at home with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and you better take care of your safety.
Every person's workshop contains all the tools he needs. But at the same time, there may be an urgent need to arrange a workplace, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with similar products.
Milling table drawing
The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need and what sizes will be convenient for you. The purchase option may not always be the way out. Don’t be afraid and waste time; even a beginner can figure out how to make a table.
