From the outside it seems that making a knife is easy, that it is just a sharpened steel strip, yes wooden handle. But when it comes to practice, the picture changes dramatically. The main thing in this process is knowledge and experience. When you know, everything is simple, when there is no experience, everything is difficult.

I recently posted on the Internet a photo of seven blades made in one day in a Stakhanovite impulse.

Alexander Kudryashov asked in a comment to tell me how I make smooth and symmetrical descents.

In response, I joked: “It’s simple: you take a “magic marker”, draw smooth slopes, say wonderful words, and smooth slopes are ready.

But is this really a joke? A joke, of course, but the truth is somewhere nearby.

Later, I offered to come and see in practice how the correct triggers and the entire knife are made. And this proposal was accepted.

According to my idea, Alexander should have participated a little in the production himself: choose a blank for the blade, material for the handle, the preferred length of the blade and handle. Alexander had to leave our experiment with a ready-made, good-quality, and most importantly, working knife.

Alexander arrived dressed up, wearing light sand-colored pants and a coyote-colored fleece jacket, which was completely unsuitable for the work ahead. We had to give him work pants and a camouflage shirt in case he got dirty. Everything fit perfectly - he and I are the same size.

In the workshop, work went according to a pre-planned plan. The material chosen for the blade was a good old mechanical saw made from a quick cutter. Why?

This is a widely known and repeatedly tested industrial hardening steel. Yes, it is difficult to process, but due to its red resistance (the ability to withstand heat for a long time without decreasing hardness), it does not require cooling.

The thickness of the mechanical saw is 2 mm, this is enough for most working knife tasks. Knives made from mechanical saws are light, hold an edge well and, most importantly, are completely legal: the thin blade thickness eliminates any suspicion of involvement with edged weapons.

In general, there are many grades of high-speed steels, but the manufacturer does not always indicate a specific grade, often limiting itself to the HSS (high speed steel) brand. New saws are rare and more expensive.

For a knife maker, the novelty of a saw does not matter at all, so to make a knife you can use either a new saw or a saw that has worked hard and even broken. The result will bear little resemblance raw material. Disadvantages include the tendency of steel to chip under lateral loads and its susceptibility to corrosion.

Alexander chose a suitable saw blade from a quick cutter (HSS made in USSR). I cut off the excess and made an outline of the future knife on sandpaper, then treated the workpiece with a brush - a rotating steel brush, giving it a noble black shine, and painted the blade part on both sides with a blue wide marker intended for warehouse work.

Using the paint of the marker, I used a caliper to mark the lines of future descents, paying attention Special attention synchronicity of their exit to the butt. The resulting lines were outlined with a “magic marker” with silver paint, which is nothing more than aluminum powder in a polymer binder.

Why them? Very simple. This paint can withstand high temperatures, adheres well to metal and is durable. When processing metal, the colors of conventional colored markers fade, wear off, and crumble. But the silver coin holds on. That's all the magic.

I installed the blade on a special device for releasing triggers (a cheaper version of the device from Chapay, made independently from a steel angle). I marked with a marker the place where the descents would begin and fixed it with a hand vice.

I performed rough metal removal with a yellow Cubitron II from 3M with P24 grain on a machine with an abrasive belt (on a grinder). For uniformity, I started removing metal from the mark with a marker at the future handle and moved towards the tip with uniform, gentle pressure.

In this case, it is very important to apply the future blade to the tape evenly, parallelly, without distortions. I let Alexander stand for a while at the machine initial stage using special devices. Drawing descents is a process that requires experience.

A little short of reaching the silver lines of the “magic marker”, I changed the tape to P60 abrasive and began to level the line of descent. I made several movements from the tip to the handle, creating a right angle at the beginning of the descent. Then work began on the risk of descents.

For this, it turned out that working with P80 and P120 abrasives was sufficient. It is unjustified to use P180 and finer abrasives for very hard high-speed steels. This is not a cubitron II, and abrasives do not work well and do not last long on such hard steels. It is important that the finishing of the blade is done on the same tape, otherwise the sides will look different.

A quick-cut knife does not require constant cooling during processing, and this is one of the pleasant moments in its manufacture. Of course, the knife should not be overheated, because elevated temperature steel leads to rapid clogging of the abrasive with sticky metal particles - to clogging.

Excessive pressing of the metal onto the abrasive is undesirable for the same reason. A tape clogged with metal, which no longer “gnaws” but “licks,” can be refreshed. To do this, you need to remove the licked ends of the abrasive that are clogged with metal and free the grains that lie deeper.

It's easy to do. You need to take a quick-cut saw blade and easily, like a file, move it diagonally, towards the moving belt at the bend (on the contact roller). This action will not give the abrasive its original aggressiveness, but it will refresh it and allow you to work more.

After the first side was finished, I turned the blade on the jig to the other side, fixed it and started working on the second side. It is always more difficult to make, because it needs to be the same as the first one.

In addition, the workpiece is less visible, it heats up more, and the contact with the massive device that acts as a heat exchanger is no longer so tight... However, the blade was ready.

Using a felt wheel with polishing paste, I corrected traces of tarnish on the metal. Once again I would like to remind you that this was high-speed steel, the hardness of which does not suffer from heating.

After marking the locations for two holes on the shank with a felt-tip pen, I drilled them with a 6mm tile drill bit. It must be said that on the first of these holes the drill exhausted its service life (this was approximately its 50th hole).

Without the slightest frustration, I took another cheap feather drill from the blister, completed the unfinished first hole and drilled the second in about 40 seconds. Then, using a larger diameter drill with a carbide tip, I chamfered the holes.

I cut the workpiece to band saw to the given dimensions, attached a shank to it and drilled with a regular drill first hole in wooden blank. I inserted a six-millimeter pin into the hole, put a shank hole on it and drilled a second one. I marked with a marker where the edge of the shank would be in the handle, and started marking for the future slot for the shank. The cut for the shank was made on a band saw.

I know that this particular blade makes a 1.5mm wide cut. I needed a cut for a shank with a thickness of 2 mm, so to the left of the workpiece I inserted a sheet of cardboard folded in half with a total thickness of 0.5 mm and sawed the slot to the required width.

After that, I started shaping the blank into a handle. By design it was a straight handle utility knife, representing an octahedron in cross-section. This was not the first knife I had with an octagonal handle, which looks strict, but is grippy, very comfortable and does not turn in the hand.

I did all the work on a grinder using wood tape. I set the required edges and started removing the marks while reducing the abrasive grain. At the end, I smoothed everything by hand with Scotch Brite abrasive, similar to a hard, flat washcloth.

And now it's time for installation. Having measured the thickness of the handle at the installation sites, I added 2 millimeters and cut off pieces of tube of a given length with a small pipe cutter. The blade's tang was inserted into the slot in the handle. It moved with tension, so we even had to use a manual rack press (up to 600 kg).

Using a press, he carefully pressed the tubes into the handle through the shank. Then I started directly flaring.

I took out a set of shiny balls from bearings different diameters, put one small ball on the lower platform of the press, and the second on the upper cut of one of the tubes and stretched the edges of the tube. I did the same with the second tube.

I performed this operation with a gradual increase in the diameter of the balls. Now all that's left to do is finishing operations by flaring with a jewelry hammer with a polished head.

A jar of natural beeswax has already been heated in a water bath. The handle of the knife went into wax for impregnation and subsequent cooling. Beeswax is a natural food polymer. Wood impregnated with it does not accept moisture and does not slip in the hand.

In my kitchen, all the knives are treated with wax, and they do nothing. You can keep the knife in the wax in a water bath for as long as you like - at least an hour, at least two, or even five minutes.

It is always good to refresh the wood of the handle of a knife or the butt of a gun from time to time with ballistol or oil - linseed, vegetable. An alternative to hot wax would be natural oils, latex-based compounds, silicone oil, special oils for wood (once sold in Ikea), and varnishes.

Each option has its pros and cons. Thus, the disadvantage of wax is that it is undesirable for knives that were assembled using glue (it usually does not tolerate elevated temperatures well).

Natural oils take a long time to polymerize (forever). Ballistol, when used regularly, gives a pleasant, smooth surface.

Silicone oils do not polymerize, but they penetrate wood well and are moisture resistant. Varnishes provide only superficial protection. After the wax cooled, I removed the excess from the handle, polished it on a felt wheel, and then polished it by hand with a paper towel.

The last thing left is sharpening. You cannot simply leave the blade reduced to zero - it will crumble, and this has been verified. We need to make a small connection.

I did it on Russian diamond bars (towards reducing the grain size), after wetting them and rubbing them with a piece of soap. Soapy water sticks to the stones better and provides better lubrication.

Finishing work without pressing the edge forward, I did it with soapy water on Green brazilian slate. All! The knife shaves. Taking a test birch log that had been well dried in the workshop (it had been lying around for 5-6 years), I tested it with dashing planing for the sharpness and durability of the cutting edge, the convenience and controllability of the knife.

The result: the knife is inclined to viciously burrow into the wood, it cuts vigorously, it is comfortable in the hand, the cut of the wood shines as if polished, and the edge is intact and does not shine. In general, you can safely put the knife to work...

It's nice to see the childish sparkle in the eyes of a healthy man looking at a new useful toy that was born with him!

Good day to all!

This article will discuss the method of making a knife, the material will be used cutting blade high speed saws.

Let's start making!

We take our blank and mark it with the future shape of the blade. When everything is ready, for convenience, we clamp it in a vice, and using a grinder with a thin cutting wheel, we cut off the excess parts of the metal along the contour of the marking. In order to accurately fit the cut out shape of the blade, according to the drawn markings, you need to additionally process the edge using sandpaper or go over it with a grinding wheel.

Since the surface of the canvas has traces of rust, which we do not need, we remove it with a special attachment for a drill, or with a regular hand brush

After processing we get the following.

According to the resulting shape of the blade, we sketch out the future design of the knife on a sheet of paper.

Next, we make a bolster for the knife, for this we use an existing piece of brass, cut off the part of the required size, then cut out the shape we need from the resulting piece.

Then we make a slot for the blade, drill holes with a thin drill with a diameter of 1.8 cm, and then make a cut with a hacksaw for metal. Next with reverse side We drill out the slot with larger drills, and make the final adjustment using needle files so that the shank fits into the hole with minimal clearance.

When everything is ready, we burn the bolster, in this case on the stove.

Now we make descents of the blade, for this we use a sharpener, the following is the result.

Next, the author used a grinder with grinding attachments of 100 and 600 grit, on which he finally brought the slopes to the desired result. When carrying out this operation, we do not forget about safety precautions; under no circumstances should the blade be placed against the rotation of the disk, as this is very dangerous and fraught with consequences.

Now we select wood material for the handle, the author used a blank from fruit trees, after which he applied the previously conceived sketch onto it, which can be seen in more detail in the photo.

Let's return to our bolster, after we have fired, the bolster needs to be finally fixed on the blade and the unnecessary cracks hidden, the author decided to solder it.

Since the author did not have enough powerful soldering iron, he decided to use another proven method, using a heated brass blank. Soldering acid was used to solder the metal to the brass bolster, and a trim from the bolster was used for precise fitting.

Since it is quite difficult to heat the bolster, the following operation was carried out - we put a brass blank and a section from the bolster on the stove and heat it while these parts are heating up, clean the soldering area, and apply soldering acid. We install the bolster on the blade, then use a heated blank to heat it, then take pre-molten tin solder and pour it into the gap between the parts. Using a brass blank and a piece of bolster, we gradually heat the parts, thus achieving uniform filling of tin along the cracks.

We get the following.

We install the knife handle.
To do this, take our workpiece, drill a hole in it, then use a small jigsaw file to expand the hole. We cut off the excess parts of the handle with a hacksaw.

Next, fix the handle using epoxy resin, to which we add sawdust.

We put it under the press and leave it to dry.

When everything is ready, we grind our workpiece, giving the handle the desired shape; for this, the author used a sharpening machine, a drill with grinding attachments, and a file.

We get an almost finished knife.

Want to create a unique knife? Do you need a wood chisel or a sharp blade for hunting? Making a good product with your own hands is more than possible. The main thing is to have the skill of working with metal and know what you want.

Making a knife: where to start?

Prepare everything first necessary details and tools, put them in one place. Decide exactly what material you will use. If you need a sharp and durable product, make a knife from a saw.

Take the blank. A wood or metal saw blade is best suited for this purpose. As a material for making a handle for a blade, use wood (any one you wish), textolite, or plexiglass.

What tools are needed in the knife making process?

To get started and make a knife from a metal saw, you will need:

• file;
• electric drill;
• marker;
• ruler;
• sandpaper;
• surface polishing paste;
• copper or aluminum for rivets.

How to make a blank?

Let's figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal sheet for making a blade. Draw a blank of the future tool on it, using a marker for this purpose.

Remember that a knife is considered a bladed weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you incorrectly construct a knife from a saw and it is regarded as a bladed weapon, expect punishment.

Having outlined the outline of the future product, start cutting out the shape. It is important to draw the shape so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of ​​the saw teeth. Due to the layout of the saw, if you make a butt in this place, you will have to extra work by grinding the convexity.

What to consider when getting started

Don't start sharpening your knife without practicing. Take an ordinary piece of metal and try to process it. Damaging a piece of hardware is not as scary as losing it good preparation. You must not only regulate the pressure when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat the iron. High temperature not only spoils the appearance of the metal. Even if it does not change in appearance, its structure may be seriously damaged: the metal will become much softer and more fragile. A knife made from low-quality metal will have to be sharpened more often.

To check if the iron has started to overheat, drop a couple of drops of water on the workpiece. If it evaporates immediately, quickly cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, place a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.

Working with a workpiece

Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and difficult stage of the work - removing the slopes. The bevel is a surface on a knife that gradually tapers towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and width of the bevels. Therefore, choose the average value if you want to get out of the saw.

Before starting to work on the machine, draw the expected slopes on the metal sheet using a marker. Grind carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. The slopes should be symmetrical and lie at the same angle on both sides. In this case, the blade should not be sharpened: leave an indent of approximately 0.25 mm.

To sharpen the blade, use sandpaper of 8-10 hardness number for such purposes. It is better to sharpen a knife from a metal saw on a wooden block. To prepare a makeshift sharpener, take a block and glue sandpaper to it.

Using coarse sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and using a finer sandpaper, you will polish the metal blade completely.

At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Same wooden block cover with felt or leather, rub and polish until you achieve the desired effect.

How to make a knife handle

The easiest way is to glue a handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make than attaching it to the tail of a knife. Naturally, you can choose a simple option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so hard to end up ruining it? aesthetic appearance knife?

And now comes the most crucial stage of work. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. Therefore, be vigilant and careful.

Steel is a hard, but at the same time brittle material. If the pressure is evenly distributed when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure increases and the metal can easily crack. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. In this case, a screwdriver is an ideal tool for accomplishing this goal, since it has fewer revolutions, and the possibility of breaking the part is not so high.

After completing the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be located with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy resin.

Is it possible to simplify the process?

Craftsmen say that the hole can be made without the use of drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface of varnish. You should place a knife from a wood saw in an electrolyte solution and lower a wire with a negative charge into the container with the workpiece, and connect the positive one to a power source, which can be used as a regular battery.

As a result of such an impact, you will get a hole in the metal, although it will not be perfectly round, but you definitely won’t be able to damage the blade in this way.

Other part processing methods

If for some reason you can’t make a knife out of it, no required material- replace it. A car spring, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw, is well suited for making a blade. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use a sharpener, but you will need a metal saw to cut out the shape of the blade. Since metal is easier to process, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. It will take longer to make a knife this way, because each stage of processing involves manual work.

Making a knife from a saw is a labor-intensive process, but the result is worth it. By making a knife from a saw with your own hands, you will receive a high-quality and unique blade.

Visual video:

A quick cutter is a steel that retains cutting properties at high heating temperatures. It is the hacksaw blade that we need. But not just any hacksaw blade, but a blade from a pendulum saw for metal. They also use them to saw rails. The dimensions of such paintings vary. Usually they lie within the following limits: thickness about 2 mm, length 400-500 mm, width 30-40 mm. The color is black or gray (after factory heat treatment), the surface is rough to the touch.

You can find the steel grade on the canvas. If it’s not R6M5, but R3M3F2, don’t be alarmed, they are interchangeable. The price of such a canvas on the market can range from 20 to 200 rubles. When examining, pay attention to how straight it is. It's very hard to find a perfectly straight one, so a slight bend can be forgiven.

It is very useful to check the material for hidden defects and microcracks before work. I can suggest one way for this, but it requires experience. But it is suitable for assessing the quality of both the workpiece and the finished product, and does not require equipment. Take the piece of metal by one end, without squeezing too hard, and bring it to your ear. Using the pad of the index finger of your other hand, run along some sharp protrusion, burr of the workpiece or along the cutting edge of the finished product (across, not along, otherwise you will cut off your finger!!!). If you hear a high and clear ringing, then everything is OK! But in order to learn how to conduct such an assessment, it is advisable to listen to steel that is known to be of high quality and that is known to be defective. If you clearly hear the difference, try to remember it well. This will come in handy for you more than once.

Now let's return to our canvas. Eat general rule: As hardness increases, brittleness also increases. The thickness of the canvas is about 2 mm. Some people think this is not enough. But the strength of the blade also depends on its geometry. From the length, width, blade shape and bevel shape.

Wood is quite suitable for the handle. It fits pleasantly and comfortably in the hand and does not get cold in the cold. After correct processing does not rot and does not take water. What kind of wood is best to use and where to get it? Birch, beech, maple, cherry, pear, walnut, boxwood, and mahogany are also suitable. And there are two ways to get them without spending years drying them yourself. The first method is parquet.

We go to a store that sells construction and finishing materials. We find a department with parquet. We choose and buy. If you want, you can find almost anything, and expensive parquet is often sold individually. The second method is recyclable materials. We look in the garage/dump/from friends old furniture. For example, tables or chairs. There was quite a decent amount of wood on them. For this knife I found a beech chair leg.

We also need a plate 3-5 mm thick made of brass or bronze for the sleeve and a brass rod with a diameter of 4-6 mm for the rivet.

We will have to change something in the classic design. Namely, the installation method. In a classic puukko (as the Finns themselves call their knives), the blade tang passes through the entire handle and is riveted onto an underlying washer. It is reliable and good way fastenings, but we won’t do that.

For the first time, mounting with one rivet is quite suitable. It is a little less reliable, but if it is executed well, the design will be quite durable.

Now you need to choose a prototype. Blade: length – 100 mm, width – 23 mm, thickness – 2 mm. Handle: length (with bushing and fungus) – 100 mm, width (bushing/center) – 24/27 mm, thickness (bushing/center) – 11/17 mm.

On the machine, you need to remove excess metal from the workpiece. Do this gradually, do not try to force things. During operation, the workpiece heats up quickly and strongly. Keep a bucket of water next to you and dip the workpiece in it more often (comment from Dmitry Kiryanov: “I completely agree about the bucket of water... It’s a bucket, and not a dead half-liter tin can, where only the tip of the blade fits - a common mistake for beginners.. ."). This steel retains its crystalline structure when heated significantly, but with sudden temperature changes, microcracks can form. They may be the reason why knives break under seemingly insignificant load. And then they say: “Steel is brittle”... Be especially careful when removing the point. The thinner the metal, the faster it heats up.

The only place that should not be touched yet is the end of the shank. We will issue it later. After you have removed all the excess, align the straight lines on the side surface of the circle. Especially the butt and the future cutting edge. Although it is also useful to trim the shank. Pay attention to the place where the blade meets the tang. Don't try to make right angles there, it will weaken the structure.

Now you need to prepare a rivet with which the shank will be secured in the handle. It is best to take a brass rod with a diameter of 4-6 mm. The diameter of the rivet should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole on the shank. What to fit to what is up to you. We will determine the length of the rivet during the manufacture of the handle.

Concave slopes are produced quite easily on the machine, the stone is round. Of course, it’s worth trying to do them later, if only for the sake of practice. They are good for scoring, but not as good for through cutting. A flat wedge is something average in its properties. But it is too complex and time-consuming; if you remove it from the butt, then the butt should be much thicker than 2 mm. And we will produce slightly curved “lens-shaped” descents. Similar descents are made on Japanese blades. They are great for through cutting.

The slopes must be the same width, have the same angle and end simultaneously and clearly. Regarding the first two points - practice, practice and practice again. Although you can make your work easier. Look at the jig that Bushman uses. Everything is quite simple here - I set desired angle, and bring yourself descents. Although, again, concave. I have not used such a device myself, but I will definitely try it.

Now about the fact that the descents must end simultaneously and clearly. To do this, I use a very simple stopper - the same electrical tape. We rewind the blade several times in the place where the slopes should end - and go! Here's what it looks like in action. Don't forget to cool the blade often. The smaller the range of temperature differences, the better.

Taking descents is a very difficult and tiring task, especially if you are not used to it. Therefore, do not sharpen for longer than half an hour to an hour at a time. Step away from the machine, do something else, and when you've rested, you can get back to work. Otherwise, you will start to rush, get irritated, ruin the workpiece, and then give up on the whole thing. It’s better to work half an hour a day and finish the descents in a week.

While working, stop periodically and check the quality of the descents. They must be absolutely symmetrical. The width of the slopes can be controlled by eye. Control the geometry and uniformity by touch by running your thumb and forefinger along the entire length of the slopes on both sides at the same time.

The main difficulty here is that you cannot look at both sides at the same time. But with the exception of two places! The first is where the cutting edge meets the heel. The second is where the butt turns into the point. Pay special attention to these places.

Don't try to achieve it right away razor sharp when removing descents. After completing this stage, the cutting edge will still be quite dull.

When you're done with the bevels, remove any rough edges from the plane of the blade. We will make small asymmetrical notches on the shank for better fixation in the handle. The end of the shank is slightly rounded and sharpened. This is what should happen.

Now let's get down to the tedious part - grinding and polishing. This is necessary, firstly, for protection against corrosion, and secondly, for a better through cut.

Stage one. We place the workpiece on the table, take a small medium-coarse stone, and begin to grind off with its edge all the irregularities that remain after sanding. We run the bar along the blade back and forth. Many times. And so on until the surface becomes homogeneous.

Stage two. We take a large and long rectangular stone of medium fineness. We put it on the table and secure it if possible. On this stone we align the slopes and remove the cutting edge.

Stage three. We install a vulcanite disk on the emery. Great for pre-polishing. When polishing with it, just like with regular sandpaper, dip the workpiece in water often. This is what happens after polishing.

In general, of course, the blade could have been polished better. It is even desirable, since this protects it from corrosion (the surface area in contact with the aggressive environment). But do it without additional equipment almost impossible - the steel is very hard and cannot be polished by hand.

If you don’t have a vulcanite disk, you can use felt wheels and abrasive pastes of different dispersion. The principle is the same - from greater to less dispersion.

At this point we finish working with the blade and move on to the sleeve. Brass and bronze work well for it. They do not corrode, are easy to process, but at the same time quite hard and durable. I don’t recommend aluminum - it’s too soft and easily soiled. The bushing separates the blade from the handle and reduces the stress on the weakest link - the part of the tang that is located just behind the bushing.

First, we find a plate of suitable dimensions. This is the only part that I don’t even know where to get (comment from Dmitry Kiryanov: “Sheet brass: you can find old handicraft anniversary medals, thickness 5-6 mm (like “Vasya’s 50th anniversary”, etc.), there were such things in Soviet times"). But I hope that this will not become a big problem for you. There is an option to make the sleeve from hard wood. Basically, improvise. I found a brass plate just over 3mm thick.

On the plate we mark the outline of the future bushing and the place where we will make the cut for the shank. We draw the cut marking line as deeply and clearly as possible.

We clamp a 2.0 mm drill (plus or minus 0.2) into the drill. We take a core (if not, a regular dowel will do) and core the first hole half the diameter of the drill from the place where the cut should end. Let's drill this hole. We core the next hole half the diameter of the drill from the edge of the previous hole. Let's drill. Etc. all the way.

Two important nuances. First, drill the next hole only after drilling the previous one. This makes it easier to fix mistakes if there are any. Second, drill the last hole not near the penultimate one, but where the cut should end. Removing the jumper will be much easier. This is what should happen.
Now we direct the drill into the jumper of one of the central holes at an angle of about 45 degrees and carefully drill it out. We drill out all the jumpers we can. After this, the unevenness is leveled with a flat file. We adjust the cut until the shank fits into it completely.

When the cut is ready, all that remains is to give the sleeve its final shape. First, we cut off all the excess with a hacksaw, then smooth it using sandpaper. It is better to make the bushing 1-2 mm larger than required according to the plan, and adjust it when adjusting the handle. This is what the result looks like from the outside and from inside.

The connection between the sleeve and the blade must be sealed. It's best to solder it. There is also a secret here: while soldering, wrap the blade with a wet rag, this will protect it from excess heat. We apply soldering acid to the place of the blade where the sleeve will be and thoroughly tin it. We clamp the blade in a vice with the blade down. We wet the cut of the bushings with acid. We put the bushing on the shank and place the soldering iron tip on it. The soldering iron heats the sleeve, it melts the tin and falls into place. After this, you can use a soldering iron to walk along the gap between the shank and the sleeve from above and below. Important point: Before the tin hardens, place the sleeve strictly perpendicular to the blade (hopefully no one will grab it with bare hands). Now let it all cool down. pour cold water not worth it. In some places there may be drops and smudges of tin. It's not aesthetically pleasing! Therefore, we take a file or needle file and grind them down. Especially from the blade side.

After soldering, there should be no gap left between the blade and the sleeve. Otherwise, water/blood/dirt will get there during operation and the shank will rust. We cut out a leather gasket under the bushing. It is needed to ensure the tightness of the connection between the sleeve and the handle. The most best gaskets are obtained from a Soviet soldier's belt, but other moderately thick, dense leather will do.

Now we have already reached the hilt! I have a round beech chair leg, and that’s what I’ll use as a starting point.

First, use a hacksaw to cut off one end so that it fits as tightly as possible to the sleeve when the shank is inside the handle. Of course, you won’t achieve the ideal at home, but that’s why we cut the gasket out of leather (comment from Dmitry Kiryanov: “Handle... I completely agree about sawing wood with a hacksaw for metal! I’ll add on my own: choose the teeth on the blade as much as possible smaller, but not the old worn-out cloth! To get an even end when sawing, it is useful to wrap the workpiece with a thick sheet of paper at the mark and, aligning the edge of the winding, we will get an ideal circular mark. Moreover, if you cut, constantly turning the workpiece (after every 3-4 cuts), the cut is amazingly even and perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece”).
After this, we mark a recess in the center for the shank. In essence, it should be a cut, like on a sleeve, only larger in width and depth, and not through. That's why we do it like on a bushing, only with a 3.5-4 mm drill. Ideally, it should be such that the shank fits tightly into it, and a little longer. We insert the shank without a gasket into the future handle and see where and how the sleeve fits to it. We correct any noticeable defects using sandpaper on the side surface of the disc.

Using a knife, we cut off what is definitely superfluous from the side surface of the handle, but leave about 5 mm of wood, which will be removed later using sandpaper. Here is the result.

One of the most difficult operations is drilling a hole for a rivet that will secure the shank. This can be done before and after gluing the handle into the shank, but the risk of error is still significant. For now best technology that's how it is. We place the shank on top of the handle parallel to the cut under it, press the sleeve to the end of the future handle (the gasket must be on). Use an awl to mark the center of the hole on the tree. We drill the handle only on one side, up to the cut for the shank. The diameter of the drill is 2/3 of the diameter of the rivet.

We glue the handle. To do this, you will need two types of binary glue - epoxy and “cold welding”. This must be done quickly, since the lifetime of epoxy (classic) is about an hour, and “cold welding” is 15 minutes. First, we dilute the epoxy and lubricate the leather gasket with it on both sides. We put the gasket on the shank and press it against the bushing. Then cut and mix" cold welding" We roll it into a thin sausage in our palms and stuff it into the hole in the handle under the shank. Don't try to fill everything with it free space– the shank should still fit there. Actually, we are now placing it there.

We rest the tip against the thick wooden board and press on the handle from above. If it gets very tight towards the end, you can tap it with a mallet. Do not overdo it, the tree may burst.

By making a knife from a saw with your own hands, you can get at your disposal a cutting device that performance characteristics much better than factory counterparts. When making a knife with your own hands, it is given exactly the shape that suits the master most. Factory-made knives are beautiful, but not always reliable. There is no guarantee that they will not fail at the most crucial moment.

A homemade knife made from a disk, a hacksaw for wood, or a saw for metal will last for many years, regardless of the conditions of storage and use. Let's look at how to make a knife from metal parts factory production, what is needed for this and what special attention should be paid to.

Raw materials for production homemade knife Can be any new or old hardened steel cutting part. It is better to use metal cutting discs, hand and hand blades as a workpiece. pendulum saws. An old chainsaw is a good option. From its chain you can forge and sharpen a blade, according to its quality and appearance not inferior to the famous Damascus steel.

In order to make a knife with your own hands, you will need the following equipment and materials:

• Bulgarian;
• grinder;
• electric drill;
• ruler;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• whetstones for sharpening;
• files;
• core;
• epoxy adhesive;
• copper wire;
• marker;
• bucket with water.

Separately, you need to think about the issue with the handle. The finished product should fit comfortably in your hand.

To make a handle it is better to use:

• non-ferrous metal (copper, bronze, brass, silver);
• wood (oak, alder, birch);
• organic glass (plexiglass, polycarbonate).

The raw materials for the handle must be intact, without traces of cracks, rot or other defects.

Rules for working with metal

In order for the blade to be strong and elastic, during its manufacture it is necessary to follow the rules of working with metal. They are as follows:

1. The workpieces must not have visible or hidden damage. Before making a knife, the workpieces must be inspected and tapped. A solid part sounds loud, but a defective part sounds dull.
2. When designing the shape of the blade, angles must be avoided. In such places the steel can break. All transitions must be smooth, without kinks. The cuts of the butt, handle and fuse must be ground at right angles.
3. When sawing and sharpening, do not overheat the steel. This leads to a decrease in its strength. An overheated blade becomes brittle or soft. During processing, the workpiece must be constantly cooled by completely immersing it in a bucket of cold water.
4. When making a knife from a saw blade, you need to remember that this product has already gone through a hardening cycle. Factory saws are designed to work with the most hard alloys. If you do not overheat the canvas during the turning and finishing process, then you will not have to harden it.

The blade shank should not be made too thin. It is this part of the product that will bear the heaviest load.

Making a knife from canvas

If the canvas is large and does not have much wear, then several blades can be made from it for various purposes. The effort and time spent are worth it.

knife from circular saw do it yourself in the following sequence:

1. A pattern is applied to the canvas, and the contours of the blade are outlined. Scratches or dotted lines are applied over the marker with a core. This way the design will not be erased when cutting out the workpiece and adjusting it to fit the required form.
2. Workpieces are cut from a circular saw blade. To do this, it is better to use a grinder with a metal disc. You should leave a margin of 2 mm from the contour. This is necessary in order to remove the material burned by the grinder. If you don’t have a grinder at hand, you can sharpen the workpiece using a vice, a hammer and a chisel or a hacksaw.
3. On sharpening machine everything that is unnecessary is sanded off. You will have to spend a lot of time on this process so as not to overheat the steel. To prevent this, the workpiece must be regularly immersed in water until it cools completely.
4. The blade is outlined. Here you need to be careful to maintain the contour of the knife, not burn it and maintain an angle of 20º.
5. All straight sections are leveled. This is conveniently done by placing the workpiece on the side of the grinding wheel. The transitions are given a rounded shape.
6. The part is cleared of burrs. The blade is ground and polished. To do this, several interchangeable wheels are used on a grinding machine.

Separately, we should dwell on how the handle is made. If wood is used, then a monolithic fragment is taken, in which a longitudinal cut and through holes are made. After this, the blank is placed on the blade, and holes for fastening are marked in it. The handle is fixed to the blade using rivets or bolts with nuts. In case of bolted connection The heads of the hardware are recessed into the wood and filled with epoxy glue.

When the handle is assembled from plastic, 2 overlays are used, which must be symmetrical. To give the knife originality, the plastic linings are painted on the inside. You can make cavities in the overlays that can be filled with jewelry, items made of non-ferrous and precious metals, small compasses and photographs.

After fastening to the blade, the handles are ground until they acquire the required shape and smoothness.

Knife from a chainsaw chain

Saw chains are made of high-quality alloy, which perfectly withstands long-term friction and high temperature. The blade manufacturing process is long and labor-intensive, but the result is a beautiful, unique and very durable knife. To work you will need a heavy anvil, a barbecue and charcoal. To make it easier to handle a hot workpiece, you need to purchase blacksmith tongs.

Making a blade from a chainsaw chain should be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Prepare clothes and gloves made of thick fabric and a protective mask. Pour charcoal into the fireplace and light it with a special liquid.
2. Fold the workpiece from a single piece of chain. In the place where the handle will be, you can add several pieces of chain. It should be remembered that the result of the work should be a single monolithic product. The handle for the knife is not made separately.
3. Place the workpiece on the coals. Provide air flow to raise temperature. Wait until the steel turns dark red. In this state, it becomes forgeable without losing its quality characteristics.
4. Remove the hot chain from the fire and place it on the anvil. Flatten it with several strong blows so that the links melt together, turning into a single monolithic part.
5. Step by step, by heating the workpiece in the oven and giving it the desired shape with a hammer, forge a knife with a designated handle and blade. After the workpiece has cooled, sharpen and polish it.
6. Harden the product. To do this, you need to heat it red-hot again and put it in cold water. After this, you can finish the knife. For this purpose, acid is used and engraving machine. Finished blade polished again and washed in warm soapy water.

At self-production the blade must be adhered to certain parameters, to ready product did not fall under the category of bladed weapons.