From this article you will learn:

• What are the types and sources of noise?
• What materials are usually used for sound insulation?
• What soundproofing methods exist?
• How to make soundproofing of the ceiling, floor, walls, front door, joints with your own hands
• What tips should you follow to properly soundproof your apartment?
• What myths and misconceptions exist regarding sound insulation in an apartment?

Almost half of the domestic housing stock today consists of housing characterized by poor sound insulation, which significantly reduces the level of comfort. Taking this into account, we can explain the popularity of services for soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors using modern materials. At the same time, it is quite possible to solve such a problem on your own. Companies that work in the field of soundproofing technologies offer a wide range of solutions that can be used even by a person who does not have special knowledge in the field of construction and installation various designs. More full information You will find information on how to make soundproofing in an apartment in this article.

From whom and what do they soundproof the apartment?

Before deciding how to soundproof your home, you need to understand the main sources of noise that are present in apartment buildings (MCD). Correctly identifying the source of sound vibrations greatly simplifies the task. In some cases, time-consuming and expensive operations can be avoided by insulating a separate structural element.

There are two types of noise:

• Wave noise- spreads through the air. Sources of sound waves: loud conversations, music, dog barking, etc.

• Vibration noise– distributed in building structures and utilities. Its sources can be construction tools (drill, hammer, hammer drill, etc.) or household appliances (washing machine).

The main sources of noise in the apartment:

• Noise from the street enters the home through window openings. You can get rid of the noise of passing traffic or loud voices coming from the playground only after installing a triple-glazed window system. Curtains made of thick fabric can serve as additional sound insulation.
• Noise from the entrance penetrates through the entrance door opening. It is not entirely comfortable, while in an apartment, to hear the noise of a working elevator, the knocking of doors and conversations of neighbors on the landing, or, conversely, to understand that in the entrance you can hear everything that is happening in your home. Both problems can be solved if the door structure is soundproofed. To do this, the door leaf must be upholstered with sound-absorbing material, and a high-quality sealant must be used along the contour of the door frame.

• Noise from adjacent apartments gets through wall structures, through sockets, gaps between ceiling elements, etc. Too noisy neighbors (loud music lovers, parties, home renovations, etc.) are most often cited as the decisive factor that prompts soundproofing in the apartment. It all depends on the number of “irritating” sources. If these are neighbors “through the wall,” then you can get by with soundproofing the adjacent wall structure. If noisy residents surround you from all sides, as well as from above and below, you will have to make complete sound insulation.
• Noise from your apartment also exits through all the structures described here. Therefore, if you yourself like noisy parties, are fond of music, or have hyperactive children, then, in order to avoid quarrels and visits from the local police officer, it is better to soundproof your apartment as soon as possible.

Another point is related to the quality of the soundproofing materials used. Manufacturers offer a wide selection of solutions that differ in price, composition used and performance characteristics.

In order to reliably isolate wall structures from the penetration of external noise, it is necessary to create conditions with the help of building materials under which noise waves are dissipated and absorbed. In addition, an obstacle should be created in the path of vibration vibrations and the possibility of reflecting sound waves should be provided.

Sound waves attenuate when passing through various media. At the same time, multilayer sound insulation is more effective than single-layer insulation, which has large thickness.

Misconceptions and myths about sound insulation in an apartment

Myth 1: To make noise insulation in an apartment, it is enough to ensure sound insulation of the wall structures behind which the noise source is located.

Noise is sound waves that travel in a straight line. Thus, the sound from a TV operating behind the wall will pass not only through the wall, but also through interfloor ceilings, communication systems and technological openings (for example, ventilation). Soundproofing the wall will only partially muffle the penetrating noise. In order to ensure comfort in the apartment, it is necessary to analyze the situation, which will help identify the weakest points in terms of sound insulation.

Myth 2: For good sound insulation, it is enough to cover the room with expensive, thin, but effective rolled sound insulation for the walls.

This is precisely the information that can be found in various advertising materials that claim that various membrane technologies are already widely used in European countries. But in practice everything looks a little different. Such membranes are ineffective on their own. They are usually used in conjunction with traditional soundproofing solutions, which only increases the cost of the work.

One of the arguments that marketers use when promoting soundproof membranes is that in the automotive industry, membrane materials with a thickness of no more than 5 millimeters are used to soundproof car interiors. But in this case we're talking about about a completely different noise reduction technology, which is effective exclusively for thin plates. The thickness of the metal from which the car body is made is several millimeters and less than the thickness of the membrane used. Now, let's calculate how thick this type of sound insulation will be needed for a wall structure with a thickness of, for example, 100 millimeters. In order to verify the information provided here, it is enough to read the technical documentation for thin super noise insulation. In fact, it turns out that this is just an advertising gimmick to increase the cost of sound insulation.

Myth 3: Solve the noise problem with sound-absorbing materials.

Popular sound-absorbing materials: Heradesign, Mappysil and Ecofon are characterized by minimal thickness and high sound absorption efficiency, but are completely unsuitable for sound insulation. To understand this, you need to understand the difference between sound insulation and sound absorption. Insulating materials are designed to protect from external influences, and absorbent materials are needed to prevent the occurrence of echoes and absorb sounds, the sources of which are devices and equipment located indoors (TV, telephone, stereo system, etc.). Sound-absorbing materials are usually used to equip home theaters.

Myth 4: You can soundproof the walls in your apartment using only polystyrene foam.

It would be a big mistake to decide to make sound insulation using polystyrene foam. After covering a room with such material, the sound insulation may even worsen. Since expanded polystyrene foams have a rigid structure and a closed cellular structure, when in contact with a solid wall they can cause a resonance phenomenon for medium-frequency sound waves. As you know, mid-range frequencies are characteristic of human speech, so with such isolation you can hear what your neighbors are saying even better. Only an illiterate specialist can suggest making sound insulation using polystyrene foam.

Myth 5: Before purchasing sound insulation, you should pay attention to the airborne noise insulation index (Rw).

The Rw index does not always accurately demonstrate the level of noise insulation of a system. The method for calculating the airborne noise insulation index was developed back in Soviet times, so it does not take into account some noise sources, which are modern household equipment. In other words, it focuses more on loud speech, TV sound or music, but does not take into account low frequency sounds produced by subwoofers, home theaters and household appliances. Fiber sound insulation with high Rw values ​​will provide high-quality protection from mid-frequency sound waves. But in order to absorb low-frequency noise, in addition to the sound absorber layer, it must have a thick facing layer.

How to make soundproofing in an apartment with your own hands: starting with the basics

Construction professionals note that panel-type houses that were built ten or more years ago are characterized by high sound conductivity. In some cases, apartments in such apartment buildings can be compared in terms of comfort to communal apartments, where you can hear almost everything that happens behind the wall. In this regard, for owners of such housing, the question of how to make noise insulation in an apartment of a panel house is very pressing.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the thickness of the walls and the material they are made of.

If the wall structures are reliable enough, then the reason for good audibility may be incorrect installed sockets and various defects in the form of cracks and crevices. In this case, it will be enough to carry out work to eliminate deficiencies, as well as to replace window and door structures.

If the walls are in order, but noise still penetrates into the apartment, you must do the following:

1. Prepare the walls.

Before you do good sound insulation in an apartment, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the walls from dirt and check them for cracks and other defects. Identified cracks should be properly filled, as they allow the penetration of extraneous sounds.

The next step will be soundproofing electrical outlets. If you need to move the socket, then the remaining hole must be filled with foam, or even better, with plaster or DSP. By doing electrical installation work Safety regulations must be strictly followed.

At the end of the preparatory stage, it is necessary to insulate the heating pipes where they pass through the wall structure. An elastic sealant is used to seal all seams and joints.

1. Choosing soundproofing material.

Sealing cracks in the walls is only the initial stage of arranging soundproofing in an apartment. For reliable protection from extraneous noise, you will need high-quality soundproofing materials, which are presented in a wide range in the catalogs of specialized companies. There is no need to choose expensive options. You can choose proven sound insulation that ideally combines price and quality.

How to choose reliable soundproofing materials at an affordable cost? It is necessary to compare the noise insulation parameters with the characteristics of the apartment. You should take into account the area of ​​the rooms, the sizes of window and door structures, the thickness of the walls and their quality. Choosing soundproofing materials with an excessively large thickness can significantly reduce the area of ​​the apartment, taking away several tens of millimeters from each wall. In this regard, you can pay attention to cork wallpaper, which is characterized by high-quality sound insulation.

How to soundproof walls in an apartment: choosing the material

So, what materials are usually used for soundproofing?

Soft sound insulation

• Soundproofing membranes. They can be regular or self-adhesive. Such membranes are made from synthetic or natural fiber. The range of such products separately includes bitumen polymer sound insulation for floors with a layer of polyester fiber.

• Sound insulation made of needle-punched fiberglass. Such materials are used for ceiling structures and walls. This is the most successful option for making high-quality sound insulation of frame structures.

• Polyester fabric backing It is produced for finishing “floating” floors, but can also be used as a base for laminate flooring.

• Mineral wool- the most common material that differs affordable price and good heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Solid insulation includes structures in the form of slabs and panels made of sound-insulating materials

• Combined panels consist of two sheets and a layer between them. They are made from particle boards with the inclusion of synthetic or cork materials. Mineral wool or quartz sand is usually used for the layer.

• Basalt slabs are made from natural fiber. There are basalt slabs treated with special water-repellent mixtures.

• Polyester fiber boards are a synthetic material that has been wide application in frame construction technologies.

• Fiberglass slabs of staple weaving are used as filler for the interprofile space, as well as for sound insulation suspended ceilings and frame wall structures.

• Cork slabs as finishing panels, as well as cork flooring, can be installed without the use of additional sound insulation.

• Foam boards are the most affordable soundproofing material. Despite the fact that their characteristics are inferior to more modern sound insulation, such slabs are still very popular when performing budget renovation. The company "My Repair" performs high-quality and inexpensive repairs in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Liquid insulation

Soundproofing materials have a serious drawback - they take up a lot of space. free space. After their installation, the room will lose space. Using liquid sound insulation will help avoid this.

To set it up you will need a special adhesive composition, which does not take up much space. It is often used between layers of gypsum plasterboard, gypsum board and plywood. A small layer of such insulation will not be inferior in quality to traditional thick materials.

It is worth mentioning the available sound insulation

Many people are interested in how to soundproof an apartment if the wallpaper is already hung. In this case, you can use a number of interior decor elements that will reduce the noise level by almost 30%:

• Large rug on the floor or wall.

• A wall of furniture located along the wall will allow you to turn loud sounds, the source of which is located among the neighbors, into a soft hum.

• Thick curtains on the windows will reduce the level of street noise in the apartment.

It should be noted that only right choice soundproofing materials will achieve good results. When deciding what kind of sound insulation to make in an apartment, pay attention to other characteristics of such materials: thickness, thermal insulation properties, etc.

Methods for soundproofing an apartment

You can soundproof your apartment using three methods:

1. Frame method involves the arrangement of guides on which the facing panels will be fixed. After installing the sound-absorbing material, sound-reflecting panels are placed between the guides.

The advantage of this method is that when correct installation panels is achieved high level soundproofing. At the same time, this option is quite expensive and takes up a lot of free space in the room.

1. Installation of slabs and membranes involves installing sound insulation directly on walls, floors or ceiling structures. After installing the slabs using special fasteners or glue, they are covered with thin cladding panels. In terms of the quality of protection from extraneous noise, this method is not inferior to frame technology, but is much cheaper.

1. "Floating" The method is used for soundproofing floors. To do this, soundproofing material is spread on the prepared surface, which is covered with waterproofing on top. A reinforcing screed is placed on top of such a flooring, on which the floor covering is installed. Since this soundproofing option does not use rigid fastenings, it provides reliable protection against vibration noise.

How to soundproof a ceiling in an apartment

The most practical and effective option for soundproofing an apartment from neighbors above is to install suspended or suspended ceilings. Such work must be carried out experienced specialists who know the features of the technological process well. For high-quality repairs in Moscow and the Moscow region, you can contact the My Repair company.

To save money, you can independently soundproof the ceiling in your apartment using multilayer structures. Even a novice master can do this option. It includes the following steps:

1. Dismantling the old covering.
2. The ceiling is covered with a special acoustic material, additionally securing it with dowels.
3. Profile hangers for installing drywall must be secured at intervals of 60 cm.
4. Soundproofing boards are installed in the resulting structure in such a way as to leave a small air gap between the acoustic coating and the slabs (from 50 to 100 mm).
5. The resulting structure is covered with sheets of plasterboard.

Pay special attention to the quality of the materials used. This will ensure your comfort and coziness in the future.

Soundproofing the floor provides protection from noise that originates on the floor below, and will also relieve you from complaints from neighbors living there regarding loud sounds emanating from your apartment.

There are also two solutions here: do the sound insulation yourself or turn to professionals. In the first case, you must strictly follow the instructions for installing soundproofing floors.

1. Sealing joints.

At the stage of preparation for installation work It is necessary to inspect the joints of interfloor ceilings and walls. If cracks are detected, they should be sealed with cement mortar or foam. Cracks in building structures most often act as a factor contributing to increased sound conductivity.

1. Installation of skirting boards.

There is an important feature of installing a plinth on a floor with a “floating” base. Such systems can shift, which will lead to deformation and destruction of the baseboard, so it is attached only on one side. To increase the quality of sound insulation, strips of special material are installed under the baseboard.

1. Installation of logs.

When installing joists, you must avoid direct contact with the walls and base of the floor. In these places, gaskets made of rubber or other sound-insulating material should be placed. You should not use rigid connections to install the logs, as they will conduct vibration noise.

1. Arrangement of the substrate.

For laminate flooring, you need to use a backing based on polyester fibers, which provides good sound insulation.

A carpet on the floor will help increase the effect.

With any option for floor soundproofing, it is necessary to follow the procedure and use high-quality materials.

How to soundproof walls in an apartment

There is no point in soundproofing all the walls in the apartment, including interior partitions. It is enough to isolate structures that are adjacent to neighbors and the staircase.

Soundproofing membranes on “self-adhesive”, combined panels or slabs, which are placed on a special frame, are used to soundproof wall surfaces. It should be taken into account that thicker materials will reduce the amount of usable space in the rooms.

An important condition for high-quality sound insulation is the absence of through sockets. If there are any, the space between them should be filled with sound-absorbing material or polyurethane foam.

Before installing sound insulation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory operations:

1. Dismantling old wall covering (wallpaper, decorative panels).
2. Dismantling electrical sockets and switches. If there is a distribution box for wiring, you need to remove the cover from it. Be sure to de-energize the wiring first.
3. Remove the wiring from the box and the sockets for switches and outlets.
4. Extend the wiring for the switch and sockets to the width of the future insulation.
5. Temporarily insulate exposed wire ends.
6. Fill the sockets and box with polyurethane foam.
7. Inspect the wall for cracks.
8. If cracks are identified, they must be sealed with cement mortar.

If you do not have the appropriate knowledge and skills, hire a professional electrician to carry out electrical work.

The most effective soundproofing option in panel apartment – frame method. Let's take a closer look at its stages.

1. Place a soundproofing membrane on the wall surface. A self-adhesive membrane or a regular one, which is mounted with a special glue, is suitable for this.
2. Frame the frame using vertical guides along the edges of the wall and horizontal guides under the ceiling and on the floor. To install the guides, dowel screws are used.
3. At a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 meters from each other, install vertical guides inside the frame.
4. Install sound insulation between the frame guides using glue or bendable metal tape, which is attached to the guides with screws.
5. There should be no voids or gaps in the resulting frame.
6. Route the wires of the switch and sockets through the soundproofing
7. Attach to frame plasterboard sheets or decorative slabs. It is necessary to make holes in the sheets or plates for the junction box, electrical outlets and switches.
8. Carefully seal the interpanel seams.
9. Do finishing walls with wallpaper or plaster.
10. Install electrical outlets, a switch and a distribution box.

How to soundproof the front door of an apartment

The entrance door is one of the most significant structures in matters of soundproofing an apartment. The main condition that will help get rid of extraneous sounds coming from the landing is the absence of cracks in the door structure. To reduce sound transmission, you should install rubber seals along the entire perimeter of the door leaf and arrange a small threshold in front of the door frame. If there are gaps between the frame and the wall, they should be sealed with cement mortar.

For more effective sound insulation, in addition to the main entrance door, you can install an additional one. The vestibule formed in this case will dampen sound waves.

How much does it cost to soundproof an apartment?

The cost of soundproofing an apartment depends on several factors, including the existing and required level of sound transmission, materials and quality of building structures, as well as the method of solving this problem. As a guide, we can say that soundproofing 1 m2 of wall costs from 310 to 400 rubles, and installing an acoustic suspension ceiling structure from 240 to 600 rub. for 1 m 2.

When deciding special tasks for arranging sound insulation in rooms with special requirements (for example, a home theater, recording studio, etc.), the cost of sound insulation will be higher than under standard conditions.

You can listen to this article!

The vast majority of apartments in panel houses It is distinguished by rather poor sound insulation, which is associated with the small thickness of the interfloor ceilings and loose joining of the panels. As a result, any sound source, be it furniture being dragged across the floor, a running TV, loud conversations, or even footsteps, causes significant inconvenience. And if the neighbors are starting renovations or a noisy feast, then you will have to forget about peace altogether for some time.

It should be taken into account that the human need for silence is not only psychological, but also physiological in nature. A noise level of about 40 decibels will no longer provide the opportunity to fully relax, and noise above 85 decibels is dangerous to health and can lead to serious mental disorders. The only thing that can help combat noise in an apartment building is comprehensive soundproofing of the apartment.

The noise entering the apartment may be of an acoustic or vibrational nature. Acoustic noise is associated with the propagation of sound vibrations through the air and enters the apartment due to the presence of gaps between walls and ceilings, insufficiently dense window and door blocks, through openings for sockets and ventilation ducts. This type of noise can include loud music or voices in a neighboring apartment, the sounds of passing cars, noise arising from the operation of the elevator, etc.

Vibration noise is acoustic vibrations propagating in a solid medium. The source of such noise may be concrete walls, reinforcement of building columns and crossbars, as well as pipes of the plumbing and heating system. Many of us know from our own experience how well it can be heard when neighbors upstairs rearrange furniture or throw heavy objects on the floor. And if someone in the entrance works with a hammer drill or jackhammer, then a terrible roar occurs not only in the neighboring apartments, but throughout the entire riser of the multi-story building. This is vibration noise.

How to make soundproofing in an apartment with your own hands

Thick concrete walls and high-quality floor joints provide good protection from noise, however, when designing and building standard panel houses, such an important factor as sound insulation, unfortunately, is not taken into account. Most residents of high-rise buildings have thought at least once about how to soundproof an apartment. In order to provide comprehensive protection against noise, it is necessary to soundproof the walls, floor and ceiling using sound-absorbing materials.

In addition, you should pay attention to sources of sound penetration such as:

• sockets and mounting boxes,
• heating and water supply risers,
• joints between walls, floor and ceiling,
• window units and entrance doors.

Let's take a closer look at how you can implement Do-it-yourself soundproofing of an apartment.

Soundproofing walls in an apartment from neighbors

In panel houses, walls and partitions are usually thin, so they do not absorb sound well. In order to provide the necessary sound insulation walls in the apartment usually increase their thickness using drywall. The space between the wall and the drywall is filled with porous material: mineral wool or foam rubber, which will prevent the propagation of sound vibrations.

First, a frame is mounted from steel profiles. In order to prevent the transmission of vibrations from the walls and floor, it is necessary to make gaskets made of rubber or other elastic substance in the places where the profiles are attached. After the frame is ready, a sound-absorbing material is glued to the wall, which should cover its entire surface, and the thicker its layer, the more effective the sound insulation. Then sheets of drywall are screwed to the frame.

Soundproofing the ceiling in an apartment

Soundproofing the ceiling in an apartment is most important, since as practice shows, the most inconvenience is associated with the noise produced by neighbors above. Ceiling insulation is carried out according to the same principle as wall insulation: first, a frame is assembled from profiles, and one should not forget about rubber gaskets in the places where it is attached, then the entire space inside it is filled with a sound-absorbing substance. To do this, you can use foam rubber, glass mat or special soundproofing boards made of mineral or basalt wool. Such slabs have an excellent absorption effect with a relatively small thickness, so after their installation the ceiling height in your apartment will not decrease significantly.

Soundproofing the floor in the apartment

If there is no intermediate layer between the ceiling and the floor covering, then sounds from the lower apartment will penetrate to you unhindered. At the same time, your neighbors will hear everything that happens in your place, right down to the sound of footsteps and chairs being moved. The issue of soundproofing the floor is solved using a special sound-absorbing material, which has a small thickness and consists of fiberglass, special paper, foamed polymer or other synthetic substance. During repairs, depending on the material of the sound-absorbing layer, it can be placed under the laminate or directly under the screed.

Due to its plasticity and elasticity, this type of sound insulation effectively dampens vibrations and absorbs shock impacts. When laying a soundproofing layer, a waterproofing film is placed on top of it, and the screed covering it should not touch the walls.

Soundproofing of sockets and junction boxes

Sockets and electrical boxes are also sources of noise. The point is that in reinforced concrete slabs The ceilings are specially provided with through holes for installing electrical equipment and fittings. In order to ensure sound insulation of the outlet, it must first be de-energized. Disassemble the socket and pull it out, then place a specially cut washer made of dense sound-absorbing material into the hole: thick cardboard or compressed mineral wool, then carefully cement it with a gypsum mixture.

Mounting boxes are located under the ceiling, usually in the middle of the wall. In some cases, they are hidden under the wallpaper, and in order to detect them, it is enough to tap the wall. Insulation of boxes is carried out according to the same principle as sockets - we remove the plastic plug, then install and cement a washer made of soundproofing material. Before carrying out work, you must make sure that there is no voltage in the network.

Soundproofing of central heating risers

According to building regulations, the risers are laid through the interfloor ceilings through special sleeves, which should prevent the spread of noise. The sleeve is a fragment of a larger diameter pipe that is mounted into the ceiling. The gap between the sleeve and the riser pipe is filled with mineral wool or other sound-absorbing material. In practice, builders often cement risers without using a sleeve. Over time, the cement breaks down, the gap between the pipe and the wall increases, and sound from the upper apartment easily penetrates through the resulting cracks. In order to ensure sound insulation of the riser, it is necessary to carefully remove the concrete around the pipe to a depth of no more than 10 cm.

Wrap the freed pipe in fiberglass or mineral wool and then cement it again. Excess noise-absorbing material is cut off, and the area next to the pipe is puttied.

Soundproofing of joints

During the operation of panel buildings, cracks often appear along the joints between two walls, as well as between the wall and the floor, through which sound can penetrate from neighboring apartments. The causes of such cracks may be various deformation buildings, as well as poorly fitted panels. To ensure sound insulation of joints, it is necessary to use a chisel or screwdriver to widen the cracks as much as possible, clean them thoroughly, prime them and cover them with plaster. After the putty has dried, the surface of the joints is covered with acrylic sealant.

In order to eliminate the gap between the wall and the floor without dismantling the parquet, simply fill it with silicone sealant and seal it with a special tape, then install the baseboard in place.

If you decide to increase sound insulation in your apartment, then remember that good result possible only with integrated approach. In this case, you should use only high-quality and proven materials.

At first they just talked in a raised voice, then they started shouting at each other. Then, it seems, they threw dishes and furnishings and clapped as hard as they could interior doors. At the end, the neighbor loudly and clearly called his wife a complete fool ( in fact, not quite “round”, but I substituted a synonym so as not to shock you), hastily got dressed and clapped front door to the apartment, which was triggered by a shock on the floor fire alarm. More and more often, neighbors were sorting things out in the middle of the night right behind our bedroom wall. Each time I wanted to do one of two things more and more. Either go out and kill them to death, or make good noise insulation. After weighing the pros and cons of each option, I decided to go with the second one. It seemed much cheaper to me. And then at one fine moment I found myself standing in the department building materials large OBI store on the outskirts of Moscow. Now I’ll tell you what I learned from the experts, and then I’ll show you how you can make an inexpensive slotted spoon with your own hands.

A little theory about sound propagation

Before we begin to build a great the Chinese wall in your apartment, it is worth understanding some features of the nature of sound.

1. Sound is a wave

If it hits a wall, it is reflected, but gives up some energy to the wall. The wall, being made of hard materials, is not an ideal sound insulator. Therefore, we can perfectly hear loud sounds from the neighboring apartment. However, the wall significantly weakens sound waves. If along the way the sound encounters another wall, then for the residual waves it will become an almost insurmountable obstacle. In other words, the sound from the neighboring apartment will hardly bother us if we simply go to another room that does not have common walls with our neighbors.

2. Sound is a wave

Do you think I wrote this again by mistake? But no. Now I will say one more unpleasant thing about waves. If there is at least a small hole in the wall in the path of the sound wave, then the sound passes through it perfectly, only slightly reducing the volume.

A simple example: the TV is on in the room, try to go into the next room and don’t close the door. What happened? That's right, almost nothing has changed. Close the door. The sound will still leak through the crack under the door. Try covering the gap with a blanket - it's better, but not ideal. Not ideal because it's not airtight.

3. Sound is a wave...

Again? Well, what can you do if it really is a wave that spreads much faster and better over solid structures. Remember: when one of the neighbors starts drilling something, it feels like they are drilling right in your apartment. And it doesn’t matter that the renovation was started 8 floors higher or lower. It will be completely impossible to stay at home.

That is why a specialist from the building materials department immediately said that there would be no escape in any case from the slamming of doors, the crash of dishes against the sink, which is rigidly mounted on the wall, or the sound of closing cabinet doors, which are also hanging on the wall. All these sounds spread with lightning speed across all the nearby walls, floors, and load-bearing columns.

However, sounds such as conversations behind the wall, music from the TV, grumbling washing machine It's quite possible to tone it down a little.

To do this, we need to proceed according to the following scheme.

The first step in creating soundproofing: Seal the cracks in the walls

Our efforts can bring much better results if, before starting active actions, we carefully check our walls for the presence of through gaps to our neighbors. Sometimes the house shrinks, foam concrete blocks peel off from the supporting columns, forming cracks.

Don't worry - the house most likely won't fall apart. But various troubles can penetrate into the resulting holes. For example, if your neighbor smokes right in the room, then cigarette smoke will easily find its way into your apartment. I myself suffered from this until I found the unfortunate loophole for the smoke. Even if they get high now, the smoke will no longer reach me... at least until the house once again turns its back to the forest, and its front to me.

In addition to smoke, the sounds of neighbors' activities will penetrate through the cracks in the walls. I have an apartment behind the wall that is for rent. I've heard a lot of things:(. In modern buildings, audibility is excellent. Especially on the upper floors, where the walls are thinner. And then there are these cracks.

In a word - don’t be lazy, you need to carefully “walk” along the joints and check if there are any holes there. If there is, you can seal it with simple foam or sealant.

Step 2. Measurements and calculation of the amount of material

To avoid buying extra materials for sound insulation we need to properly measure the wall, or walls that require our attention. Luckily, I only had one problem wall with my neighbors. Here she is:

It was made from ordinary sand-lime brick, so it conducted sound perfectly. Before going to the store, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure, measure the length and height of the wall, or rather, all the walls that need to be worked with. Can be used household. It is much more convenient and faster to work with than with a tape measure. Especially if there is no assistant who could “hold” and “step on”. Moreover, some rangefinder models themselves calculate the area of ​​the wall. A very useful thing for the home handyman. I've been looking at it for a long time :).

It is better to write down the measurement results on a piece of paper, otherwise in the store you will painfully remember the numbers. As a result, you can easily buy more or less material than the required amount. Both are equally offensive and inconvenient.

Step 3. Purchasing materials for soundproofing

Here everyone will have their own preferences. Let me show you what I bought.

Firstly, it is soundproofing mineral wool Rockwool Acoustic Butts:

A material specifically designed for sound insulation. Mineral wool fibers are arranged randomly, which makes the material an excellent absorber of sound waves. They simply get entangled in the fibers and gradually fade away, never reaching their destination, that is, your ears.

The same material has a couple of other excellent properties: it does not burn and does not “fall off”, that is, it retains its original volume for many years. It also retains heat and is not susceptible to fungus or rodents. In a word, Rockwool Acoustic Butts- this is exactly what we need.

The package shown in the previous photo contains 10 slabs of material with a thickness of 5 centimeters and dimensions of 100x60 cm. Thus, one package contains 6 square meters of material. Knowing the area of ​​the walls that need to be insulated, you can easily calculate how many packages will be needed.

I needed two and a half packs. Naturally, I had to buy three. They cost about 2300 rubles.

Except soundproofing material we need to provide something that we will put on top of it. After all, we can’t just attach Rockwool boards to the wall and leave them exposed. We need something to cover it up. There are a lot of options here. Can buy plasterboards, Can Wall panels type of lining. I chose the second one. Again, knowing how many meters of wall you need to cover, you buy a certain number of packages of panels.

Finally, fasteners and tools: drill, screwdriver or screwdriver, wood saw and knife for “carving” Rockwool boards.

Step 4. We begin to make sound insulation

We tear off the baseboard and carefully examine the joint between the floor and the wall. If necessary, we treat suspicious cracks with sealant or, in particularly advanced cases, with polyurethane foam.

After installing the first row, it becomes clear where you will need to drill to install the first horizontal crossbar. We get something like this:

So we move from bottom to top until we hit the ceiling. There, some of the slabs must be carefully trimmed to prevent the formation of uncovered sections of the wall.

The fact that when working with Rockwool boards, especially when cutting them, a lot of tiny particles are formed deserves special mention. They can dig into the skin of the hands and even be inhaled through the nose, being in the air in the form of fine dust. Hence, it is advisable to work with gloves and a respirator. At least a gauze bandage wouldn't hurt.

Before you begin to attach wall panels to the resulting horizontal bars, measures should be taken to eliminate the rigid connection between them and the panels. After all, the bars are directly attached to the wall, involuntarily becoming conductors of sound.

Therefore, you can stick this kind of tape made of porous material onto the bars. It's a little like tape for sealing windows for the winter.

The worst thing is to install the latest panel. We'll have to tinker. The more accurately you adjust it, the smaller the gap you will leave for noise to penetrate.

Now we put the baseboard in place and improve the junction of the new wall with the ceiling and adjacent walls. You can use the same baseboard for this. I used wooden corners.

If there was a socket in the wall, you can bring it to a new wall surface or attach it to the baseboard, which is what I did.

How effective is this sound insulation?

As I already said, it does not save you from noise on structures such as slamming doors. Something more serious is needed here. However, now, when neighbors talk to each other, at least we don’t hear every word clearly. Yes, the sound still passes through, but it no longer has such an irritating effect.

There is something to compare with: this wall, bordering the neighbors, continues further, in the hallway. That's where everything remains the same. But the task was to make at least basic soundproofing in the bedroom. I think that I succeeded.

The level of sound insulation of modern apartments, and especially in new buildings, leaves much to be desired. It is quite possible to correct this situation yourself if desired. It won't cost too much and won't take much time. In this article we will look at the question of how to properly soundproof walls.

Types of soundproofing materials

The modern market offers the consumer a wide variety of products. They can be classified into three main groups.

1. Tough. Sound absorption by these materials occurs due to the fact that one of their components is a porous filler (pumice, expanded clay, cork, perlite, etc.).
2. Semi-rigid. Made from polyurethane based materials. This group can include, etc.
3. Soft. Such sound insulation is made from mineral wool or fiberglass. Soundproofing apartment walls using this type (along with semi-rigid) is most often performed.

How to choose the right material

There are only two types of noise - airborne and percussive. In the first case, it could be music, loud voices heard behind the wall, etc. Impact noise occurs, for example, when operating a drill or hammer drill. Typically, soundproofing walls involves protecting against airborne noise, and protecting floors and ceilings from impact noise. Do-it-yourself soundproofing of walls can be done using:

• Mineral wool. This is very inexpensive material with excellent performance characteristics. Ideal for protection against airborne noise. Its only drawback is its rather large thickness. Therefore, it is advisable to use it in large areas.
• Cork soundproofing material. It perfectly protects against both air and impact noise. It can be successfully used to insulate the walls of both large and small apartments.
• Soundproofing panels ZIPS. Soundproofing walls using this material is most effective. The main disadvantage of such panels is their rather significant weight, and therefore difficulty in installation.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the installation of soundproofing material, the walls must be carefully prepared. All cracks and possible holes must be found and sealed. You should also soundproof the sockets. Of course, before starting this work, the electricity in the apartment must be turned off (at the panel). The sockets are disassembled and removed from their sockets. The holes can be insulated with foam rubber, polystyrene foam or fiberglass. On final stage all cracks are covered with plaster. It is also necessary to seal the outlets of all pipes in the apartment (plumbing, heating, gas). Next, the walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.

Sound insulation using mineral wool

Mineral wool is a material for soundproofing walls, which we discussed above. Its installation is carried out as follows:

• the metal profile is covered with a special polystyrene tape that absorbs noise;
• guides are mounted;
• rack profiles are installed;
• Pre-cut slabs of mineral wool are installed between them;
• an additional profile with a thickness of 2-3 cm is installed (it is necessary to ensure that there is a small ventilation gap between the soundproofing slabs and the drywall);
• plasterboard sheets are installed.

Soundproofing walls with cork panels

In this case, a special quick-setting glue is used. The wall is thoroughly coated, after which the element is pressed tightly against it. Installation is carried out with an offset of half the slab. The cork sheets should be laid as tightly as possible. The presence of any gaps between elements is not allowed. Cork panels are aesthetically pleasing in themselves. Therefore, perform additional finishing in this case it is completely unnecessary. The exception is the walls of bathrooms. In this room, the slabs should be coated with a special sealant varnish.

How to perform sound insulation with ZIPS panels

Next, we will examine in detail the issue of walls using sandwich panels. Previously, special gasket tapes are glued along the perimeter of the wall to the floor, adjacent walls and ceiling, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the sandwich panels. In this case, instead of glue, a special acoustic sealant is used.

The slabs are mounted on the wall using special dowels. Installation should be done from left to right and bottom to top. The panels of the first row are cut short and long side, and all subsequent ones only in length. The element is placed against the wall and holes 6 cm deep are drilled through the vibration-isolating units already existing in it. Next, dowels are inserted and hammered into them. All subsequent slabs are installed in the same way (joint spacing is at least 25 cm). The tongue-and-groove joints of the panels are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws (step - 15 cm). At the final stage, the joints of the panels are processed with a sanding float. After this, all seams are filled with sealant.

Wallpapering

Sound insulation of walls will be even more effective if vinyl foam wallpaper is used as the final finishing. Pasting the walls must begin from the window. Using a level, first draw a vertical line on the wall. It will serve as a guide when gluing the first strip.

The canvases are smoothed over the wall surface with a soft roller with fur. middle length. Air bubbles are removed with a special wallpaper brush. Any glue that gets on the surface of the canvas is removed with a clean rag. Since foam wallpaper is not a very durable material, pasting must be done as carefully as possible.

As you can see, soundproofing walls with your own hands is not a very complicated process. With a little effort, you can make living in an apartment or house much more comfortable. The most important thing is to do everything without haste, lay all the elements as closely as possible in relation to each other and carefully seal all the joints.

Soundproofing walls in an apartment, modern materials for which can be found in hardware stores today, is becoming more and more relevant. This is explained simply - fences in multi-storey standard buildings are not able to completely protect the home from external street noise and from sounds coming from neighboring apartments.

Medical scientists It has long been noted that the presence of constant noise has an extremely negative effect on the human psyche, preventing him from getting complete relaxation and rest. That is why, unable to withstand the constant sound pressure, many city residents, especially those who live in panel houses, begin an active search for a suitable soundproofing material that will meet all the requirements for its use in apartments.

Almost all modern acoustic materials are made on the same basic principles as traditional ones. However, they have undergone significant improvements due to recent production technologies.

Today, a very large number of new soundproofing materials are being produced, and it is simply impossible to cover the characteristics of all of them in one article. Therefore, attention will be focused on the most effective ones, which are used specifically in apartment conditions.

Thin sound insulation MaxForteSoundPRO

When the area of ​​an apartment or room does not limit the choice of materials, and you can install sound insulation of any thickness, this is convenient. But what if you can’t afford to waste precious centimeters of living space?

In this case, innovative thin material for sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO. It has a thickness of only 12 mm, while its characteristics can compete with sound insulation with a thickness of 5 and even 10 cm! MaxForte SoundPRO is the latest material created specifically for sound insulation of residential and industrial premises.

Specialists from the Research Institute of Building Physics and the Department of Acoustics, Faculty of Physics, Moscow State University, took part in the development of the material. When manufacturing MaxForte SoundPRO, we took into account all important points For efficient work material: the optimal density was selected (if the density is low, the sound will pass through, if the density is too high, along the “skeleton”), the length of the fibers, their thickness. The sound-absorbing layer is calibrated and uniform over the entire area. The material is completely non-flammable. The composition does not contain harmful phenol-formaldehyde resins or any adhesives. Therefore, in addition to excellent noise insulation properties, MaxForte SoundPRO is safe for health.

MaxForte SoundPRO provides an increase in noise insulation from both airborne noise (loud TV, crying child, screaming neighbors) and impact noise (noise from stomping, grinding furniture, falling objects). It can be used to soundproof ceilings, walls and floors, which will give a significant increase of up to 64 dB!

Installation of thin sound insulation is very simple, and not only professionals can handle it, but also anyone who has ever held a hammer drill and a screwdriver in their hand.

MaxForte SoundPRO is mounted on the wall using ordinary plastic mushroom dowels, which can be purchased at any hardware store. It is hung on the wall using the “joint-to-joint” technology, after which it is covered with a layer of gypsum fiber board (gypsum fiber sheet). All sheet seams must be sealed with a special vibroacoustic non-hardening sealant. Afterwards, the sound insulation is sewn up with a layer of gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard sheet). The seams of the gypsum fiber board and gypsum board sheets should be staggered, that is, not coincide.

You can see the installation of thin sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO in the video.

Video - How to install thin sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO

Thin wall soundproofing panelsSoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol

SoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol panels are a unique material for soundproofing walls and ceilings, which allows you to achieve silence in the apartment and not lose useful space.

SoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol panels are made of durable multi-layer cardboard profiles based on the honeycomb principle, which are filled with thermally treated mineral quartz sand. The quartz filler used is very fine, exactly the same as hourglass. It is this filler that makes it possible to achieve an impressive weight of the panel - more than 18 kg per m2, and according to the laws of sound insulation, the heavier the material, the worse it transmits sound (cotton wool transmits sound very well, but for example a brick wall or steel door much worse). In addition to its weight, quartz sand, due to its fine fraction, perfectly dampens and absorbs almost all frequencies of sound - from airborne to shock.

How to install panelsSoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol?

Installation of the panels is very simple and almost anyone can handle it. are attached to the wall using SoundGuard DAP acoustic anchors, which are driven into pre-drilled holes through the panel in the wall. After this, all seams and joints are coated with sealant and the entire wall is covered with plasterboard.

Mineral sound-absorbing material "Shumanet-BM"

This soundproofing material made from basalt fibers is considered a premium mineral sound-absorbing board. One side of the mat is laminated with a layer of fiberglass, which helps maintain the integrity of the slab and hold the internal basalt fibers in one position to prevent their small particles from entering the room. This is especially important in cases where the sound-absorbing material will be covered with perforated acoustic panels.

Packaging of soundproofing boards “Shumanet”

Plates " Schumanet BM" are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 23 — 03-2003 “Noise protection”. They have the following technical and operational characteristics:

	Indicators
Standard slab size (mm)	1000×500 or 1000×600
Slab thickness (mm)	50
Material density (kg/m³)	45
Number of slabs per package (pcs.)	4
Area of ​​slabs in one package (m²)	2.0 or 2.4
Weight of one package (kg)	4.2÷5.5
Packaging volume (m³)	0.1 ÷ 0.12
Sound absorption coefficient (average)	0.95
Flammability (GOST 30244-94)	NG (non-flammable)
Water absorption when partially immersed in water for 24 hours, % of total volume	No more than 1÷3%

Acoustic tests to determine the sound absorption coefficient were carried out in the measurement laboratory of the Moscow Research Institute of Building Physics at the Russian Academy of Architecture and Construction Sciences.

The basis of “Shumanet” is basalt fibers

Having a low degree moisture absorption, this soundproofing material can be used not only in rooms with normal humidity, but also, for example, in the bathroom. In addition, it is excellent for soundproofing suspended and suspended ceilings, and, of course, walls and multi-layer partitions made in the form of a sandwich of plasterboard, plywood, fiberboard and other sheet materials.

Soundproofing walls using Schumanet BM

Installation of the slabs of this sound insulator follows the same principle as all types of mineral wool. However, one must take into account the fact that the material will be used primarily as sound absorber, and only then is considered as additional insulation.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• On the prepared surface, markings are made to secure the sheathing elements. Since the width of the mats is 500 mm, and they must stand apart between the bars, the distance between the guides should be 450 ÷ 480 mm. If mats 600 mm wide are purchased, then, accordingly, the distance between the bars should be 550 ÷ 580 mm.
• Next, the sheathing elements themselves are fixed, but at the same time, in order not to weaken the basic qualities of the soundproofing material, experienced craftsmen advise following a number of simple recommendations:

— For lathing, it is best to use wooden beams rather than metal profiles, since metal is a good conductor of sound and can resonate, and wood tends to dampen sound waves.

— Additionally, in order not to create bridges for the passage of sound, it is recommended to make gaskets made of thin sound-proofing material, for example, felt or strips of basalt wool 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, between the wall and the sheathing bars.

— If, after all, a metal profile is chosen for the sheathing, then it is better to move it away from the wall with a soundproofing pad by 12 ÷ 15 mm.

- In the case that the area soundproof the room is large enough, and it is possible to move the sheathing for sound-absorbing material and cladding 100 mm from the wall, then special ones can be used to fasten the bars details - hangers. They are screwed to the wall through wooden spacers, and the bars are already fixed in them.

Another option is the use of special suspensions, which are designed specifically for noise-absorbing structures. Structurally, such a product already has a special damper layer that effectively dampens vibrations without transferring them to the frame guides.

Special suspension used for soundproofing work

If guide bars secured in the manner indicated above, then the soundproofing mats are mounted in two layers. The first of them is installed behind the sheathing elements, close to the wall, and the second is installed between the guides.

Double-layer placement of “Shumanet” panels

• Ultimately, upon completion of installation of the Schumanet BM panels, the walls should look like this:

Next, on top of the mats soundproofing material is fixed vapor permeable diffuse membrane. Then they proceed to the installation of plasterboard or plywood sheets, which, in turn, will become the basis for finishing work. However, it is quite possible to replace this multi-layering by fastening it directly to the guide lathing of wooden decorative lining.

Next, the wall is covered with a diffuse membrane and covered with plasterboard or plywood

It should be noted that all sound and heat insulating materials made in mats or rolls are mounted on walls according to the same principle.

Video: advantages of soundproofing mineral slabs " Schumanet»

"Texound" - a new direction in sound insulation technology

"Texound" is not yet as popular as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, since it is a relatively new sound insulator. The most important advantage of Texound over others soundproofing materials is that it practically does not “steal” the usable area of ​​the room, since it is small in thickness.

The main advantage of Texound is the highest efficiency of sound insulation with a small thickness of the material itself

This sound insulator is used for all surfaces of the room - it is fixed to the ceiling and walls, and also laid on the floor.

It should be noted that some craftsmen use Texound in combination with thermal insulation materials, and such a combination only increases the effectiveness of its use. But, unfortunately, the rooms in apartments most often do not have extra space that can be given over to a “powerful” multi-layer sound and heat insulating structure. In this regard, a material was developed that is able to protect rooms from excess noise without reducing the room in size.

To achieve the desired effect and protect the room from outside sounds, it is necessary to cover all surfaces of the room with soundproofing material, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve the desired result.

Texaund was developed in Spain by specialists from the well-known company TEXSA, and its mass industrial production began there. It is in this country that the largest deposit of the mineral aragonite, which is the main raw material, is located.

To be more precise, the basic component is calcium carbonate (CaCO³). Aragonite is very rich in this compound. In addition, calcium carbonate is the main component of many calcareous rocks, including chalk, marble and others.

Harmless components are used as binding components. polymer compositions, and as a result, high-density membranes are obtained, but at the same time very flexible and elastic, with pronounced visco-elastic qualities, which is extremely important for sound insulation of complex building structures.

Soundproofing rooms with this material is very effective even if canvases of very small thickness are used. “Texound” is capable of absorbing and dispersing even high-intensity sound waves that come not only from the outside, but are also created indoors, for example, with very loud music.

Texaunda canvas covered with protective film

“Texound” is produced in sheets (membranes) and goes on sale in rolls packaged in polyethylene. It has the following technical and operational characteristics:

Name of material parameters	Indicators
Material density (kg/m³)	1900
Average specific gravity canvas (kg/m²)	6.9
Area covered by one package (m²)	6.1
Weight of one package (kg)	42
Sound insulation coefficient Rw (average)	28
Flammability (GOST 30244-94)	G2
Elongation at break (%)	300
Manufacturing materials	mineral aragonite, plasticizers, polyolefins, spunbond

In addition, the material has the following advantages:

• "Texaund" is resistant to temperature changes. Its elasticity does not decrease at all even with negative temperatures up to - 20 °C .
• The material has pronounced flexibility and ductility, and in this way “Texound” is somewhat reminiscent of rubber.

"Texound" with its plasticity resembles dense rubber

• The material is resistant to moisture and will never become an area for mold or mildew to spread, as it has antiseptic properties.
• The operating time of the Texound is not limited.
• Texound combines well with other materials and can be used in a complex system.

“Texound” is divided according to its thickness, size and release form, and may have additional layers that improve its characteristics. The main brands are presented in the table:

Name	Sound insulator release form	Linear parameters of the material, mm
"Texound 35"	roll	1220×8000×1.8
"Texound 50"	roll	1220×8000×1.8
"Texound 70"	roll	1220×6000×2.6
"Texound100"	sheet	1200×100×4.2
"Texound SY 35"	Self-adhesive roll	1220×8000×3.0
"Texound SY 50"	Self-adhesive roll	1220×6050×2.6
"Texound SY 50 AL"	Foil self-adhesive roll	1200×6000×2.0
"Texound SY 70"	Self-adhesive roll	1200×5050×3.8
"Texound SY100"	Self-adhesive sheet	1200×100×4.2
"Texound FT 55 AL"	With felt and foil layer, roll	1220×5500×15.0
"Texound FT 40"	With felt layer	1220×6000×12.0
"Texound FT 55"	With felt layer	1200×6000×14.0
"Texound FT 75"	With felt layer	1220×5500×15.0
"Texound 2FT 80"	With two felt layers	1200×5500×24.0
"Texound S BAND-50"	Self-adhesive tape	50×6000×3.7
Homakoll glue intended for Texound	Canister	8 liters

Installation of "texound"

Almost any base is suitable for installation of this material - concrete, plasterboard, plastic, wood, metal and others. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared - leveled, cleaned of old coatings, primed and dried.

If there is a high-quality layer of plaster on the wall, then it must be primed, and then installation can be carried out directly on it.

The work can be carried out in two ways. In the first of them, only soundproofing material is used, and in the second, it is used in combination with a heat insulator.

The first option - without additional insulation

• Glue is applied to the prepared surface. To install the Texaund, a special mounting adhesive is used, which is sold in ready-to-use liquid form in canisters. After coating, you must wait 15-20 minutes until the glue sets.

Marking and cutting of Texound canvases

• Next, the soundproofing material itself is mounted on the glued wall, which must be measured and cut in advance, and also pre-coated with glue.

Special glue is applied both to the surface of the wall and to the Texound canvas itself.

• If you purchase self-adhesive material, then installation will be much easier, since adhesive will not be needed, and you will just need to remove protective film and attach the material to the wall.
• Next, the texaund sheet needs to be pressed as tightly as possible to the surface, and then additionally walked over it with a roller. This must be done to achieve better adhesion to the wall surface over the entire area, without leaving air bubbles.

Welding Texound joints using a gas torch

• Texound canvases must be overlapped by approximately 50 mm. The sheets are glued together hermetically. This process is carried out using “liquid nails” glue or by heating the material with hot air or a gas burner - adjacent sheets are welded. If during installation even small gaps are left between the panels, the effectiveness of sound insulation will be significantly reduced.

Doorway completely finished with Texound

• If Texound is installed on the ceiling, then it is glued in small sheets, since the material is quite heavy, and it will simply be impossible to hold a single sheet from wall to wall.
• After gluing the canvas, if necessary, it is additionally fixed to the wall with fastenings - “fungi”, the same ones that are most often used for installing polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

The second option is using thermal insulation

Complex installation is carried out if the wall needs not only soundproof, but also insulate. If there is such a task, then the work is carried out as follows:

• The sheathing frame is attached to the primed wall along the edges.

Texound frame around the perimeter of the wall

• The next step is to immediately glue Texound onto the entire wall in one version, and in the other, heat-insulating material is pre-laid. However, the first method shows higher efficiency specifically for sound insulation.
• If thermal insulation is adjacent to the wall, the “texaund” is first secured with “fungi”, and then additionally pressed with strips of metal hangers.

Fixing Texound panels with mushroom dowels

• To achieve the required space for installing the insulating material, the metal profile of the frame is fixed into hangers at a distance of 40÷50 mm from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to set each of the profiles according to construction level, otherwise the frame skin will not be smooth.

Installation metal frame on top of soundproofing sheets

• The next stage is the installation of insulation. The most environmentally friendly suitable insulation materials, which can be installed independently, is considered to be basalt-based mineral wool. If financial allow facilities, then you can use the above-described “Shumanet BM”, which is not only sound-absorbing, but a good thermal insulation material.

• It fits tightly between the sheathing posts and is pressed against the Texound mounted on the wall.
• Upon completion of the installation of insulation, the wall should look like this:

• It is advisable to tighten the insulation vapor permeable diffuse membrane.
• The next stage is . In some cases Plywood or OSB sheets are used for cladding.
• The sheets are fastened to the sheathing posts using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the sheathing material by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

• Then the joints and holes from the screw heads are sealed with putty.
• Next, the surface is primed and puttied completely, and after that you can decorate the walls with decorative material.

Drywall is the most convenient material for leveling walls

The wall that received soundproofing and insulation protection, it is necessary to prepare for further work - to achieve flat surface, which will become the basis for finishing materials. As well as in special publications on our portal.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Existing texound installation schemes

Masters apply various schemes installation of this sound insulator. Depending on the convenience of performing the work, the area of ​​the room and the required efficiency of insulating the walls from external noise, you can choose any of them. The only disadvantage of these structures is their thickness, which even in the best case will be at least 50 mm.

First option

This design will have a thickness of 50 mm.

• They begin to install it by covering the prepared metal profiles on the side of their contact with the wall with self-adhesive tape “Texound S BAND 50”. This must be done in order to avoid the transmission of sound and vibrations from the wall through the metal frame into the room.
• Further, frame elements are fixed to the wall with dowels, and heat-insulating, sound-absorbing mats are mounted between them.
• Then, soundproofing material is glued to the plasterboard sheets on the inside. In this case, Texound 70 is suitable.
• After that. drywall is fixed to the frame posts, and its seams are sealed with putty.

Second option

The thickness of the structure with this option will be 60 mm.

• In this case, first a thin heat insulator is attached to the wall. You can use foil insulation, installing it with the reflective surface towards the room. The insulation should cover the joints of the wall with the floor and ceiling, that is, extend to them by 150÷200 mm.
• On top of it is produced installation of a metal frame, which just like in the first design option, it is attached to the wall.
• Next, insulation mats are laid into the frame, which are covered with plasterboard with Texound 70 glued to it.

It should be noted here that thermal insulation material, attached to the wall, can be replaced with Texound FT 75, which has an additional layer of felt.

Third option

The thickness of the third design option is 70 ÷ 80 mm, since it consists of more layers.

• The first layer of thermal insulation material is installed on the wall.
• The second layer is the Texound sound-absorbing membrane.
• A sheathing is mounted on top of it.
• Then the insulation mats are installed.
• The last layer on the structure is sandwich panels, consisting of two sheets of plasterboard, between which Texound is laid.

When purchasing soundproofing material of this type, it is recommended to provide the consultant of the selling company with the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. A sales consultant will help you make the right choice by determining the thickness and best form of Texound release.

Video: using Texaund for soundproofing in an apartment

Using foam mats as sound insulation

The most effective affordable material for soundproofing walls in an apartment can be called acoustic foam rubber. Due to its porous structure, this material perfectly absorbs and dissipates sound vibrations.

Acoustic foam rubber is capable of neutralizing two types of noise - sound and vibration waves, that is, it muffles sound and dissipates low frequencies arising from vibrations of surfaces, for example, knocking or “bass” of music.

The material is quite durable and can be installed either as an independent soundproofing material or in combination with drywall. Foam mats are available in a wide range of sizes and can be textured or have a flat surface.

Foam rubber is made by pressing polyurethane foam, after which it is cut into standard blocks measuring 1000 × 2000 mm. The thickness of the mats varies from 10 to 120 mm. Material domestic production is available in two or three colors, while imported options have a more varied color scheme, including 10÷12 colors.

Types of material relief

The types of relief patterns of acoustic foam rubber can be different. Both the total thickness of the material and its sound-absorbing properties.

The main types of reliefs used for the purpose of soundproofing rooms are presented in the tables below:

Material relief height (mm)	25	50	70	100
"Wedge"
	For moderate sound insulation of walls and ceilings.	Effective for absorbing standing sound waves and echoes in medium to small rooms.	For effective sound insulation rooms of any size.	For absorption low frequencies, most often used in large halls.
"Pyramid"
	For moderate protection of walls against penetration of high and medium frequencies.	Protection against standing waves in small spaces. In combination with traps for low frequencies, they can completely soundproof a room.	Suitable for rooms of any size and used in conjunction with additional elements soundproofing such as sound traps.	Same characteristics as wedge material type

There are other, less commonly used elements made from acoustic foam.

Name of relief type	Characteristics
"Peak"	This mat relief is less popular and has an unusual pattern. Its lack of demand is explained by lower soundproofing qualities than those of the materials mentioned above.
"Bass Trap"	Low-frequency waves are more difficult to dampen because they are longer. For this purpose, bass traps are installed in each corner of the room, which are designed for rooms of any size.
"Treble and Mid Frequency Traps"	These elements are installed in large halls. They are designed to capture medium and high frequencies, and create a low-frequency dispersion effect. They are installed in a vertical position, but if the blocks are cut in half and installed in the corners, they will become low frequency traps.
"Corner block"	Corner blocks are produced in the form of a triangular beam. They are installed in the corners of the room and at the junctions of two surfaces, and also serve to dissipate low frequencies.
Decorative ceiling tiles	They are produced with or without a relief pattern. They are designed to change the relief and shape of the ceiling, thereby achieving an additional soundproofing effect.
Insulating wedges	Used to reduce vibrations from studio equipment and used as a substrate for it.

Until recently, acoustic foam rubber was rarely used in apartments, since the material tends to accumulate dust. But in recent years, more and more residents of panel houses are choosing foam rubber to reduce the sound conductivity of the walls. Thanks to its high sound-absorbing and dissipating properties, this material can make a room almost completely soundproof, provided it is installed not only on walls, but also on the surface of the ceiling and floor.

It is very important to note that acoustic foam rubber does not lose any of its soundproofing qualities when it is covered with plasterboard. The main condition in creating such a structure is that the foam mats themselves must be glued directly to the base of the wall, without any lining.

Soundproofing walls with acoustic foam

Installing foam rubber on walls is not too complicated, so you can easily do it yourself. In this case, it is worth considering the most acceptable method of sound insulation for apartment conditions, but it should immediately be noted that the area of ​​the room will be slightly reduced.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

• To make the foam stick easily, it is best to prime the wall surface and dry it well.
• Next, the mats need to be fixed to the wall. They must fit tightly to its surface, otherwise the sound insulation effect will be partially lost.

• You can glue foam mats using wide double-sided mounting tape, “liquid nails” or heated silicone.
• When all the walls are covered with foam mats, you can proceed to the installation of frame sheathing from metal profiles or wooden beam. The frame guides are mounted at a distance of 50÷60 mm from the wall.
• The racks are mounted in the recesses of the relief pattern directly to the wall. Holes for fastenings are drilled directly through the foam.
• After fixing the frame of the sheathing, sheets of plasterboard, plywood, PVC panels or others are fixed to the guides Decoration Materials. This will not in any way reduce the sound absorption efficiency of the foam layer, since it will be the first to receive all sound waves coming from outside, absorb them and dissipate them.
• In the same way, the foam rubber is mounted on the lathing. The lathing is installed directly on it, and then one of the types of suspended ceilings is fixed.
• On the floor, logs are laid on top of acoustic foam rubber, on which a plank or plywood floor is laid. Next, if desired, you can lay laminate, linoleum, carpet covering or other decorative coating.

It should be noted that the installation of acoustic mats does not require serious preparatory repair work, and if the decision is made to leave the foam panels in open form, then their installation will generally take no more than one day.

The exposed material will require frequent cleaning with a powerful vacuum cleaner to prevent large amounts of dust from accumulating within the porous material. If one of the panels comes away from the wall for some reason, it can be quickly and without special preparation glued into place.

In addition to the soundproofing materials considered, there are others in the assortment of construction stores. But today, acoustic foam rubber, Texaund membranes, Schumanet slabs and similar sound insulators can be called the most effective and safest for installation in an apartment.