The design of such a furnace is quite complex, and its creation will require a significant number of welds, as well as the use of a pipe bender. You will have to tinker with it for more than one day. However, the high efficiency of Buleryan fully justifies the efforts spent on its creation. Before you start making a buleryan oven with your own hands, familiarize yourself with some of the nuances described in this article.

Operating principle

Buleryan was originally developed by Canadian craftsmen for the needs of lumberjacks. Since deforestation is carried out most often in winter, a very powerful and compact stove, which can be easily dismantled and transported to another site. Over time, it began to be used for heating country houses, garages, bathhouses and other utility rooms.

The fuel in the Buleryan does not burn, but slowly smolders without air access. Such a furnace consists from two communicating chambers: the second chamber serves for afterburning of furnace gases formed in the first chamber during the long-term smoldering of the fuel.

On the sides of the buleryan there are many pipes, the lower ends of which “suck” cold air from below, from the floor. The air in them quickly receives the heat emanating from the firebox and is expelled from the upper pipes into the room. For maximum heat transfer, the pipes are located 2/3 inside the body and only protrude slightly from it.

Important! Since in such a firebox the heat must have a certain limit, use coal Not recommended as fuel.

Construction of the Buleryan stove

Buleryan is able to heat a room in a very short time with a minimum amount of fuel (if the efficiency of a potbelly stove is 20-40%, then in Buleryan it reaches 75%). Wherein furnace power depends not only on the volume of the firebox, but also on the number of pipes surrounding it (there can be 7-16 of them). Moreover, even the smallest oven per minute is capable of “pumping” and heating from 4 cubic meters. m of air.

The device has two modes:
kindling in the presence of oxygen, while the room quickly warms up within about half an hour;

gasification: the stove is filled to capacity with dry wood, then the dampers in the ash pit and pipe are closed to stop air flow.

Air movement in the oven

Advice. You should not cut off the access to oxygen too abruptly, otherwise the stove will begin to “spit” smoke and fire. If the stove is too hot, it should be cooled slightly and first only half-close the lower and then the upper damper. They should be closed completely only after the oven has partially cooled.

Unfortunately, when burning slowly, too much smoke is generated, so when installing them, it is recommended to extend the pipes to a considerable height - 3 m from the top edge of the stove.

The main stages of creating buleryan

1. To weld the furnace frame, 6-8 pipes are used, which are bent on a pipe bending machine at an angle of 160° and connected at the points of contact in a checkerboard pattern by welding. The ends of the pipes remain straight.

Advice! Narrow water pipes should not be used for installation - the air flow in them will be too weak. The optimal pipe diameter for making buleryan is 60 mm.

Welding a pipe frame

2. To ensure air flow into the firebox and accelerate the afterburning of gases, holes are made in the first pair of pipes for inserting air injectors in the form of two hollow pipes welded together at an angle of 90°. They are put on a thinner pipe that communicates with the furnace frame and are brought out at the upper front part of the structure. The injectors will open and close by turning the L-shaped pipe.

Air injector

The injectors are led out at the front of the furnace

3. Next, the firebox is divided into 3 parts: an upper chamber for afterburning gases, a middle chamber where firewood is placed, and a small chamber for collecting ash. In this case, the upper part (afterburning chamber) should occupy 1/4 of the total volume of the firebox. A minimal amount of ash is formed when burning a buleryan, so the ash pan can be small.

4. To ensure that the partition fits perfectly between the pipes, it is easier to use cardboard pattern. It is much more convenient to insert it into the oven and trim it to the right size.

5. Since the top of the oven is narrow enough to increase the volume of the upper chamber, the partition can be shaped into a V-shape. It is made from a thick sheet of 6 mm with holes for the passage of gases, occupying about 7% of the sheet area. Such a partition should not reach 1/4 of the length of the fire door.

Partition for separating two combustion chambers

6. Cast iron is fixed in the lower part of the firebox grate bars or steel grate made of 4 mm bars. Since they burn out over time and require periodic replacement, it is better not to weld them, but to lay them on metal corners.

7. The space between the pipes is welded with bent strips of heat-resistant metal. Blanks for them are also cut using cardboard patterns.

Parts for welding the body between pipes

Welding the bottom with metal strips

8. The back of the stove is covered with a drop-shaped sheet in which a hole is cut for the chimney.

9. A sheet with a hole for attaching the door is attached to the front of the buleryan. To ensure its perfect tightness, a neck is welded to the edge of the hole - a 10 mm metal strip.

10. The diameter of the door hung on hinges should be slightly larger than the hole itself. Along its edge there are two strips of metal so that a ring attached to the furnace body can fit between them. To seal, an asbestos cord is laid in the resulting groove.

Blanks for the front of the door

11. Welded on the entrance door small area pipes 35 mm long 100 mm, in which a blind damper (throttle) is attached. For better clamping, it is better to install a spring on its axis.

Damper (air vent) on the top of the door

12. For perfect abutment of the door, it is mounted on it locking device as rotary eccentric. It can be turned into lathe or buy ready-made. The eccentric will be grabbed by the hinge welded to the stove, and in the process of scrolling, ideally press the door against the body.

Oven door lock

Parts for creating a lock on the door

13. For ideal convection (heat exchange between pipes and ambient air), the stove must have stands 25-30 cm high. They can be welded from metal or the stove can be installed on a base of 4 rows of brick.

14. Since combustion of residual gases occurs not only in the firebox, but also in the pipe, one of the design features of the buleryan is the presence horizontal section of the chimney. Its length can be up to 1 m. Since complete combustion of gas requires maintaining a high temperature, this section of the pipe carefully insulated mineral cardboard or wool.

Important! Without insulation of the chimney, the efficiency of Buleryan is significantly reduced.

T-shaped chimney

15. At the junction of the pipe and the furnace, a damper in the form of a gate is installed - metal sheet, fixed to the rod. Its diameter is slightly less than the diameter of the chimney by 10-15%. Additionally, a sector is cut out in the damper for the release of carbon monoxide.

Slide damper mounted at the outlet of the furnace

16. When gases burn under conditions low temperature Condensation from water and resins may periodically form in the pipe. To drain it, it is mounted at the bottom of the pipe tap for draining it.

Condensate drain valve

17. After completion welding work All seams on the stove are carefully cleaned and polished.

Furnace installation

To protect the floor from fire, Buleryan is installed on a base made of brick, stone or concrete. To prevent fallen embers from causing a fire, a steel sheet is placed on the floor in front of the firebox. The same metal sheet of a larger size is attached to the wall. It will shield heat.

Installation of Buleryan

One of the options for a DIY Buleryan stove

Advice. To reduce the amount of condensation and soot in chimney Buleryan should be heated only with dry wood.

Buleryan from a gas cylinder

Watch the video review of the Buleryan stove:

One of the most effective ways heating a garage space is to use a special stove, popularly known as “buleryan”. This design is in many ways superior to traditional “potbelly stoves”, because it heats but does not overheat the room, and moreover, it does not require a lot of oxygen to operate. Passing through the “buleryan”, the air is heated to 100-150ᵒC and supplied in this form to the heated zone.

Attention! Due to the long burning time, such a stove operates in a twelve-hour cycle, that is, to maintain the required temperature, fuel needs to be loaded only twice a day.

Furnaces of this type are often produced in the form monolithic design, which consists of a certain number of interconnected metal tubes. When fuel is burned, convection air currents are formed in the tubes, which lead to rapid heating of the room.

At the same time, cold air is drawn in by the lower ends of the tubes, warmed up in the combustion chamber and directed back into the room. Even the smallest versions of the “buleryan” can pump five cubic meters of air per minute. Obviously, for an ordinary garage this efficiency is quite enough.

The functioning of the combustion unit in such a design is vaguely similar to the work gas boiler. The firebox consists of a pair of chambers. In the first chamber, the fuel slowly smolders, forming unburnt gases. They burn out already in the next chamber, which ensures forced submission air through installed nozzles.

Thanks to “double” combustion, almost no waste is left, and the efficiency exceeds 80%.

Attention! Due to the fact that there is no need for high temperatures in a garage room (which is how it differs from a residential room), it is advisable to equip the stove with a thermostat.

There are three possible methods temperature adjustment:

As already noted at the beginning of the article, one of the design features of the “buleryan” can be called special tubes, recessed into the combustion chamber by two-thirds of their diameter. This ensures quick heating of the room.

Such ovens perform two functions at once:

• quickly heats the air to the required temperature;
• maintain this temperature for a long time.

Moreover, they do not dry out the air and do not become hot during operation.

Attention! Experts do not recommend using coal, as this leads to rapid burning of the tubes, which, as you know, occupy most of the body. If you correctly follow the operating modes and load only the fuel that can be used, then the operational life of the “Buleryan” will be unlimited.

Video - Review of the Buleryan stove

Before you start manufacturing, you should prepare everything you need.

Stove "Buleryan" drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

To create a furnace you will need the following materials:

• sheet steel 6 mm thick;
• metal pipes ø55-60 mm.

You will also need the appropriate tools, which include:

• welding machine, electrodes for it;
• water level;
• clamps;
• patterns;
• pipe cutter;
• marker;
• pipe bender;
• grinding machine;
• corner;
• ruler.

After preparing everything you need, you can start cutting the blanks.

Stage 2. Cutting blanks

Step 1. First, the pipes are cut into pieces of the required length.

Step 2. Then oval-shaped blanks are cut out of the metal sheet, which will be used in the manufacture of the back and front walls. Tapes are cut from the remnants of the sheet to close the gaps between the tubes.

Step 3. The blank for the V-shaped tray is cut out and the dampers are formed. All that is left of the metal is used for the inlet/outlet pipes and the door.

Step 4. The tubes and strips are bent. The bend for the body occurs in an arc, the caliber is periodically checked (the length of each tube should be 120 cm, and the radius should be 22.5 cm). For this you will need a pipe bender.

The inlet and outlet pipes are bent into a ring using the same device. If this is not possible for any reason, then they are cut from a pipe of larger diameter.

Stage 3. Assembling the structure

First, the body is made. To do this, you need to perform the following steps.

Step 1. A tube is laid on a flat surface (the first one from the back), and a wooden beam with a thickness equal to the diameter of the bent tube is placed next to it.

Step 2. The next tube is laid on the beam - its edges should lie on top of the previous one. A second beam is placed nearby with an overlap relative to the first.

Step 3. In this sequence, the tubes are laid in a checkerboard pattern until the level of the front wall is reached.

Step 4. The tubes are aligned and “seized” by welding at the points of contact.

A V-shaped tray is welded into the finished body, which will separate chambers No. 1 and 2 from each other. First, the points of contact between the outer surface of the chamber and the tray are “grabbed”, after which a continuous seam is formed along the entire plane. A perforated shelf is installed above the inlet pipe (blower).

Step 5. Next, the gaps between the pipes are closed with metal strips cut at the previous stage of work. The structure is tilted from a vertical to a horizontal position, all connections are welded with permanent seams. All that remains is to make the back and front walls.

Instructions for making the front wall.

Step 1. One of the oval blanks is applied to the front of the body. For precise fitting, the cutting locations are indicated.

Step 2. Then a hole is made in the wall for the blower and a pipe for the damper is welded on.

Attention! To manufacture such a damper, the walls of the pipe are cut along the axis, and a metal pin with a pre-welded flat disk is inserted into the resulting hole. It is important that the diameter of this disk fully matches the diameter of the pipe.

Step 3. Next, a hole is made for the door and a short “collar” is welded. The door itself should be a short cylinder with double walls. The door is put on the “collar”; for better tightness, the interface with the body is covered with asbestos rope.

Step 4. The door is secured using an eccentric latch. The latch will secure the pin welded to the outside of the plate. Metal hinges are welded on the other side of the door.

After assembly, the structure is attached to the body using a welding machine.

Regarding the back door, it should be a metal circle with a hole made for the outlet pipe (smoke exhaust). The door is welded to the back of the body.

All that remains is to weld four L-shaped supports to the bottom of the stove.

Stage 4. How to install “buleryan” with your own hands

Attention! To install a stove indoors, preliminary arrangement of the foundation is required - flat slate, laid on a layer of fire-resistant asbestos.

The pipe is inserted into the pipe using a coupling connection, and the joint is additionally sealed with asbestos. The pipe from the outlet pipe is led outside the heated room in accordance with the requirements for installing chimneys. That's it, the oven is ready for use.

Typical problems with the Buleryan stove

At first, the stove will work normally - fast heating, long burning and other advantages described at the beginning of the article. But over time, it will be more and more difficult to melt the “buleryan”, the draft will worsen, and the gate will no longer close. This can only mean one thing - it’s time for the first cleaning.

In this case, there are two possible options.

1. You can drown for a while aspen firewood, although this will not give much effect. If the structure is already clogged, then no amount of firewood will help.
2. You can also do a burn. It is important that the ash drawer is completely open. The channels become very hot (“to a red heat”), as a result of which all the resin burns.

Attention! Sometimes a hose from an oxygen cylinder is connected to the ash pan for heating, but this is extremely dangerous.

Buleryan solid fuel stoves continue to gain popularity. They differ high efficiency and the ability to quickly warm up rooms. Consumers can purchase ready-made units or try to assemble a Buleryan stove with their own hands. There is nothing complicated about this, because in its design it resembles the most ordinary pyrolysis potbelly stove. The only differences are in the housing, which is equipped with efficient tubular convectors.

Design Features

Assembling a Buleryan stove with your own hands is really very simple. But only for those who know how to handle tools and iron, and also have an understanding of the structure of solid fuel stoves. There are no particular structural difficulties here, but you need to remember that working with iron requires special care - it is not as malleable as wood. But as a final result, you should get an excellent heating unit that will delight you with quick warm-up and long-lasting combustion.

The Buleryan stove, assembled with your own hands, is a traditional solid fuel unit that runs on wood using a gas generator circuit. That is, the wood burns here, releasing pyrolysis products, which are sent to the afterburning chamber and burn there with secondary air. Combustion products go up the chimney, escaping into the atmosphere and partially falling out in the form of condensation - we will tell you how to get rid of it with just one movement of the hand.

Our Buleryan potbelly stove consists of the following parts:

• The main combustion chamber is spacious, roomy, the firewood lies directly on the convection pipes;
• Afterburner chamber - located above the combustion chamber, it is a perforated or solid sheet of iron that separates the upper quarter of the entire internal volume;
• Tubular convector - a set of curved pipes, most of the area of ​​which is in direct contact with firewood, coals and combustion gases;
• A loading door with a small blind flap through which firewood is loaded into the Buleryan oven, made by hand. It also allows you to regulate the access of oxygen to the combustion chamber;
• A chimney with a slide damper and a chamber for collecting condensate - ensures the removal of combustion products and collects condensed combustion products for their subsequent removal.

Also in the design of the furnace there are tubes (injectors) for supplying secondary air - it is needed in the afterburning chamber for combustion of pyrolysis.

It was the simplicity of the Buleryan convection oven (also called the Breneran oven) that gave it its well-deserved popularity.

It is this unusual appearance that makes the Buleryan stove so extremely effective.

In order for you to experience all the delights of the Buleryan stove, we will tell you about its operating principle. We have already said that the pyrolysis reaction is used here. The burning of wood with a limited supply of oxygen looks like smoldering with the release of pyrolysis products. Entering the upper afterburning chamber, they ignite and burn, releasing a large amount of heat - combustion is supported by small injectors built into two convection pipes.

The blower and gate valve are responsible for maintaining the pyrolysis reaction. They are responsible for limiting the supply of oxygen and slowly removing combustion products. Thanks to this, the heat is almost completely sent to the heated rooms.

Many users are wondering whether a potbelly stove or Buleryan is better and what to give preference to. The efficiency of a potbelly stove, including a pyrolysis one, will be lower. To increase efficiency, it will be necessary to retrofit it with additions that create convection. But the potbelly stove still won’t be able to catch up with the Buleryan stove, no matter how hard you try. Buleryan is the most efficient and advanced stove today, with an extremely lightweight design.

Buleryan is not in detention solid fuel stove. But you can assemble it with your own hands, according to a similar scheme, by building homemade burner into the loading door (we wrote about assembling such a burner in our reviews). It is also possible to purchase a ready-made burner. But such a scheme will be justified only if you have access to inexpensive supplies of this simple fuel.

Making homemade Buleryan

This furnace has a wide range of applications. It is suitable for heating residential buildings, country houses and utility rooms. If you need a good stove for the garage, Buleryan will be a worthy solution - fast-acting and effective. Literally 15-20 minutes after ignition, a comfortable and warm atmosphere will be established in your garage.

The Buleryan stove, made by yourself, will delight you with its ease of operation and unpretentiousness to fuel. However, the logs for it must be dry (preferably no higher than 15% humidity), otherwise the pyrolysis reaction will occur with difficulty. High humidity burning firewood also leads to a large amount of condensation. Let's see how to assemble it with your own hands.

Drawing for assembling the furnace, materials and tools

We present you with a drawing with dimensions that we will use as a guide when assembling the Buleryan stove with our own hands.

Detailed diagram of the Buleryan stove.

During the development process, you can make your own changes if they seem necessary to you. For example, nothing prevents you from fitting a ready-made door here, so as not to have to worry about it self-assembly. Along with the drawing you will need the following tools:

• Hydraulic or manual pipe bender;
• Welding machine;
• Angle grinder for cutting steel;
• Grinding disc for correcting welds.

• Pipe with a diameter of 60 mm for the manufacture of a convector (heater) - the drawing shows pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, but then the convection will not be so intense. In this case, we advise you to focus on the area of ​​the heated room;
• Sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm - from this we will cut intermediate plates, as well as the front and rear walls;
• Chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-130 mm;
• Metal pipe to create a choke (blower) on the loading door;
• Hinges for the loading door, as well as a secure lock with a secure handle for opening and closing it;
• Materials for creating a slide damper - another handle with a small piece of sheet steel to block the chimney clearance;
• Metal pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for injection pipes.

An asbestos cord is also useful to seal the door. Don't forget to pick up good electrodes for welding metal parts.

You will also need thick cardboard, from which it is very convenient to make patterns for later cutting out metal - this way you will save time and nerves. By the way, some craftsmen make Buleryan stoves with their own hands from a square pipe. It turns out a little scary, but overall it works.

First steps

First, we need to make the frame of our entire Buleryan stove - it is an interweaving of curved pipes that form an air heater and the future firebox. Use a pipe bender and bend them to a radius of 225 mm. The length of each pipe is 120 cm - this is more than enough. The pipes are welded together with metal strips to create a stable base for our stove. There should be no holes on the sides, otherwise smoke will penetrate into the heated rooms.

Making an afterburner

The next stage of making a Buleryan stove with your own hands is creating an afterburner chamber. To do this, you need to take sheet iron and make partitions from it with recesses for the air heat exchanger.

Next, we weld the partitions from the inside to the pipes so as to separate about a quarter of the internal volume (or as indicated in the drawing). Please note that these partitions go to the rear wall, and they do not touch the front wall (secondary air injectors are welded into the first two pipes).

Pyrolysis products will end up here. And the combustion products will go to the back wall, where the chimney of the Buleryan stove is located.

We complete the assembly of the base

Now we need to cut two pieces from sheet iron that form the back and front walls of the Buleryan stove. But don’t rush to weld them - they still need work. In the back wall we make a hole for the chimney, focusing on the diameter of the chimney pipe.

After this, we move on to the front wall - here we need to make a hole for the insert. The door is made from a piece of pipe with a diameter of 350 mm. And here you will have to suffer.

The whole point is that the door should tightly close the inlet of the firebox. We weld a part of a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm to the front wall of our Buleryan stove, which we assemble with our own hands - it protrudes slightly, as in the picture. Next, we make the door itself - it will be double-layered, the inner part will go inside the loading hole, and the outer part will cover it from the outside.

We make a hole in the door of the Buleryan stove for the choke. Its dimensions are indicated in our drawing. It is a small section of pipe in which metal loop the flap rotates - it should completely block the gap. To prevent the loop from rotating under its own weight, we press it with a spring. It is also necessary to make a reliable lock to secure the loading door.

Fiddling with doors, throttles and dampers when assembling the Buleryan stove with your own hands is the most problematic, because working with small details always more difficult than with large ones. But if your hands grow from there, you will cope with the task relatively quickly.

Making a chimney

If you think that the chimney for the Buleryan stove, assembled with your own hands, is a piece of pipe, then you are completely wrong. We will make a T-shaped chimney with a slide damper for our stove.

Unlike a throttle, the gap here is not completely blocked, but only 3/4 of the maximum diameter of the chimney - this is exactly the damper that will need to be cut out and installed in the outlet (horizontal) pipe.

We weld a vertical section to the horizontal chimney pipe of the Buleryan stove. Smoke will escape through its upper part, and condensation will accumulate in the lower part (it will definitely happen). To make getting rid of it more convenient, weld it to the bottom ball valve. Just one movement of the hand - and all the accumulated condensate will drain into a previously placed container, as we promised earlier.

Final stage

By the way, our DIY Buleryan stove is almost assembled. We already have:

• Main body with air heater;
• Two walls with doors and a throttle;
• Chimney with throttle valve.

It's time to weld all the components into a single whole. Once again we make sure that the seams between the metal plates and the convection pipes are tight, and then we proceed to install the front and rear doors.

Remember that the afterburner should be located in the upper rear part - do not mix it up.

After welding the walls, we check the fresh seams. At the next stage, we arm ourselves with an angle grinder and carefully grind the seams to make them more neat. Finally, we connect the chimney and begin painting the Buleryan stove using heat-resistant paint. Part of it will subsequently burn (for example, on the front door), but the upper part will remain intact, since convector pipes do not heat up to the highest temperatures.

The final stage includes the installation of a self-assembled Buleryan stove on a metal or brick pedestal. The optimal height for the lower part of the convection pipes is 20-25 cm from the floor level. Next, we install the chimney and load firewood into the firebox. At the first stage of ignition, the throttle and gate valve are fully open - the firewood should ignite completely. After this, we close the gate valve and the throttle, which is why the Buleryan stove will switch to the pyrolysis combustion mode.

Adjustment of the combustion intensity is carried out using the throttle and slide valves - here you will need a little practice to achieve optimal results. In addition, you can upgrade the Buleryan stove, assembled with your own hands:

• Convert an air heat exchanger into a water heat exchanger and connect it to the heating system - you get a powerful, productive wood-burning boiler;
• Connect the convector inputs with a pipe and connect a powerful blower fan here. Similarly, combine the outputs of the heat exchanger, connect flexible pipes to them and distribute heat to adjacent rooms - you get an air heating system;
• Install the Buleryan stove in small room(the size of a toilet) and from this room distribute pipes with hot air to other rooms - another way to organize air heating.

It may take you up to several days to make a Buleryan stove with your own hands, but overall the results should please you.

Video

Outdated potbelly stoves were replaced by more than modern boilers long burning. Such air heating stoves can maintain heat for 8-10 hours with a single addition of fuel. The market is replete with various offers of heating devices running on solid fuel. But all these boilers came from one ancestor - the Buleryan stove, which is easy to make yourself.

The appearance of the Bulerjan stove is similar to a potbelly stove, but with unusual design. At the same time, the efficiency of this boiler is significantly higher, and the scope of application is much wider. Factory-made air heating devices are in great demand, but it is quite possible to make Buleryan with your own hands and use it to heat a workshop, garage, utility room and even a small dacha.

How does a Buleryan type boiler work?

Making a heating device will be much simpler if you understand how it works. You can simply copy everything, but it’s not a fact that everything will work correctly. At first glance, Buleryan looks like metal barrel, lying on its side and entwined with pipes.

The design is not particularly elegant, but due to its efficiency, the device is very popular in places where the climate is harsh. The operating principle of the unit is based on convection and dosed air supply into the combustion chamber.

Convection is the transfer of heat using a moving medium; in Buleryan this is air currents.

Because cold air is heavier than warm air, it is located closer to the floor. The lower ends of the pipes that wrap around the Buleryan firebox go to the same place. As soon as the combustion chamber heats up, cold air begins to flow into the pipes, and as it warms up, it enters the room through the upper ones. Thanks to the phenomenon of air circulation, the unit can quickly heat the room.

As a rule, the unit is calculated based on the volume of the room that it will need to heat. If you use the device more than the required power, then the room will be hot as hell, but if there is not enough power, heating the room will take a very long time and the device may eventually simply fail.

Second positive feature boiler of this type is a long burning. Quick heating is pretty good, but being on duty at the stove while adding wood is not much different from a potbelly stove. The long-term preservation of heat in the room by the unit is the merit of another physical law.

Without air supply, the flame will not burn. Because of this, air enters the combustion chamber through the damper (channels, jets) in the volume that is needed for smoldering wood, and not for it to burn.

Depending on the type of wood, the fuel in the combustion chamber can smolder for up to 10 hours. And throughout this period the room will remain warm. Due to constant convection currents, the room is heated within 15 minutes. The efficiency of the unit can be estimated at 75%. If we take a standard brick oven for comparison, its efficiency is less than 50%.

Air heating furnace design

We have figured out the essence of quickly heating a room and maintaining comfortable temperature conditions. It is necessary to understand how this is implemented, that is, what parts the design of the unit consists of.

The Buleryan heating device includes the following elements in its design:

• combustion chamber, which consists of bent tubes and metal strips;
• secondary combustion chamber;
• front wall;
• back wall;
• door for storing fuel;
• a pipe serving as a chimney;
• ash pan;
• injector;
• chimney damper;
• power regulator;
• blower, etc.

The foundation of the design of the Buleryan unit is its combustion chamber, which has cylindrical shape. Convection pipes pass through it to heat the room. The firebox itself is divided into upper and lower parts using a grate. The purpose of the grate is to supply air to the lower layers of fuel.

A special damper built into the door is responsible for regulating the air supply to the oven. As it turns, the amount of air in the chamber increases, causing the firewood to flare up, or decreases so that the firewood begins to smolder. In some designs, manufacturers install stops that lock the damper in a certain position.

Gate valve. Some consider it part of the boiler, others - an element of the chimney. The damper is installed at the smoke outlet from the stove and goes directly into the chimney. Its task is to limit traction if necessary. In the first models, this part was closed tightly. But given the sad data about those killed from carbon monoxide, dampers are installed that cover the pipe by 75-80%. Because of this, minimal traction is maintained.

The Buleryan stove has a huge amount positive qualities: safety, quick heating of the room; if you set the smoldering mode, large firewood can burn for up to 8 hours. This is one of the most efficient boilers with an efficiency of 80%.

The disadvantages are the accumulation of caustic condensate, the disposal of which is quite difficult, and quite strong soot deposition in the chimney, which is why it needs periodic cleaning.

What is needed to make a boiler?

The power of the future air-heating heating unit is directly proportional to the volume of the heated room. That is, based on these parameters, it is necessary to calculate not the square footage of the room, but its cubic capacity. It's quite simple; you need to multiply the area of ​​the room by its height. It is necessary to add 20% to the calculated result - these will be probable heat losses.

For example, we need to heat a room whose area is 40 m2 and 3 m high. The volume of such a structure is 120 m3 plus 20%, resulting in 144 m3. Thus, we need a device capable of heating a room of 150 m3. Factory-made units in this case must have a power of 9 kW and a combustion chamber volume of 74 liters. I would like to note that units with such parameters are the most popular, looking back at them, we will make Buleryan ourselves.

Buleryan do-it-yourself drawings and the most effective scheme:

The next step is to collect the necessary raw materials. In order to make an air-heating boiler you will need:

• sheets of heat-resistant metal 4-6 mm thick;
• pipes with a diameter of at least 5-7 cm, otherwise air circulation through narrow channels will be difficult;
• a short piece of tube with a cross-section of 35 cm for the door. Can be made from a square pipe;
• tubes with a cross-section of 10 cm for the smoke exhaust duct and 120 cm for the throttle body;
• a pair of hinges for mounting the door;
• several metal rods with a diameter of 3-5 mm to create handles for the damper and door;
• asbestos cord to make the door airtight.

The tool will make the task easier. For work you need: grinder, drill, welding machine, measuring instruments, pipe bender. True, not everyone has a welding machine and a pipe cutter, but you can try to rent or borrow from friends.

Buleryan manufacturing process

A self-made buleryan oven is made in several stages.

1. The first step is the preparation of convection pipes. Using a pipe bender, they need to be given the required form. Typically, their number varies from 6 to 8 pieces. Doing more or less is irrational due to the fact that efficiency is lost. A frame is made from the resulting curved pipes (some make special frame, some use spot welding).
2. After the pipe base has been assembled, it is necessary to measure the resulting distance between it, after which sheet metal strips are cut to the required width. Once they are welded, 1/3 of the pipe should remain at the top.
3. Next, the grate bars are made. They are sold in a store or on the market, but you can weld them yourself from fittings or corners. Experts recommend using the factory version, since it is cast from cast iron, which significantly increases its service life, and its price, as a rule, does not exceed 800 rubles. Naturally, a cast iron grate will not serve forever, taking this into account, it is recommended to weld stops for it inside the combustion chamber; in the future, this will significantly facilitate the task of replacing it.
4. After which comes the turn of the upper partition. It must be installed in the upper part of the stove to cut off open fire from the chimney. The walls of the combustion chamber have a rounded shape, which somewhat complicates the task; in order to simplify it, you first need to make a pattern from cardboard, and then, focusing on it, make a metal part. It is necessary to cut holes in the partition (they should not be less than 7% of the total area). At the time of welding it is necessary to make sure that the seams are tight.
5. From the same sheet metal it is necessary to cut a circle, which will later serve back wall ovens. Here it is also recommended to use a pre-prepared pattern. It is also necessary to remember that it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney pipe (diameter 100 or 120 mm).
6. The most difficult stage is the manufacture of the front wall and door. In principle, the wall is cut according to the same principle as the back one, that is, using a template prepared in advance, the only difference is that a hole is made not for the chimney, but for the door, which is located above the grate. It is worth noting that the larger the door, the larger the firewood can be placed in the combustion chamber. Around the perimeter of this hole it is necessary to weld a metal strip (side) of approximately 1 cm, it is necessary for greater tightness.
7. The door should be slightly larger than the prepared hole. To the cut-out metal circle you need to weld two strips, whose height is approximately 15 mm (pipe rings will do). There should be a gap between them equal to the width of the side that is welded to the wall. In the resulting groove it is necessary to place a sealant, the role of which is played by an asbestos cord.
8. The next element that needs to be made is the throttle valve for the door. For this purpose, you need to use a piece of pipe whose length is 10 mm and diameter 25 mm. This will be the damper body. An indent of 3-4 cm is made from the edges, and holes are cut (bottom and top). Then you need to insert a metal rod into them, the end of which is bent on one side. He will play the handle of the axis on which the damper will be attached. After which a circle is cut out of sheet metal, whose diameter coincides with internal diameter housings. After everything is assembled, it must be attached to the door.
9. A small slot must be made in the upper part of the damper so that a small amount of air constantly enters the combustion chamber. By the way, the gate valve is made in the same way. After which it is installed in place.
10. The final stage is to weld the hinges to the front wall and door and then hang the door on them. For the sake of fire safety It is recommended to check the integrity of the seams.

After the stove is ready, you can weld corners and fittings or lay them out with bricks. If you are not satisfied with the appearance of the unit, it can be coated with heat-resistant paint.

Correct use of equipment

Non-standard installation of chimney pipes is necessary in order to protect the structure from wood accumulated during the combustion process. If this is not taken into account, the resin will flow out of the unit, and in the case of installation described above, it will remain inside the chimney and gradually burn out.

The Buleryan stove is guaranteed to become clogged with resin. Over time, layers of resin accumulate, which subsequently clog the device. This begins to be noticeable after the efficiency of its operation is noticeably reduced, the thrust becomes weaker, and the free movement of the gate is somewhat problematic. This indicates that it is necessary to start cleaning the device.

The simplest method in this matter is to heat the stove with aspen wood. Unfortunately, this method is short-lived and has little benefit. The most the best method Elimination of resin contamination is burning. To carry out this operation, Buleryan must be melted with the ash pan open, essentially calcining all the channels. As a result, all resinous deposits are burned.

Some craftsmen use oxygen for burning; in this case, the nozzle of the cylinder is brought to the ash pan. This procedure is quite dangerous, as it violates fire safety rules. Careless handling of an oxygen cylinder near an open flame may result in an explosion.

Not only firewood is suitable as fuel for this type of stove, but also wood waste such as shavings or sawdust, or special briquettes. One of the key conditions is low level fuel moisture. The amount of moisture is directly proportional to the formation of resin inside the stove, and the less resin is formed in it, the less often it needs to be cleaned.

When using the unit, it is necessary to set the operating mode to obtain maximum heat with less resin formation. If the optimal mode is found, then cleaning will be necessary only a couple of times during the heating season.

Manufacturing of this heating equipment like Buleryan with your own hands is enough difficult task. But in the end you can get a convenient and high-performance device. According to experts, if installed correctly and the conditions of use are observed, the service life of the unit is almost eternal.

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The Bullerjan stove (bullerjan, buller, buller, breneran) was not invented by ordinary Canadian guys, as some claim, but by fairly competent heating specialists. The rest of the history of the buller is true: it was actually invented in Canada for the needs of lumberjacks and more on a whim, without further ado. It turned out well, it looks impressive, and there are more than enough people who want to make the buller themselves. This article is written about some of the obstacles and subtleties that may be encountered along this path.

A little history

In Canada, forests are felled not in blocks, but selectively, and teams of lumberjacks lead a nomadic lifestyle. Logging is carried out more in the cold season, when the vegetation does not vegetate, life in the forest comes to a standstill and the damage to forest biocenoses from logging is minimal.

The climate in the Canadian taiga is even harsher than the Siberian one, and even with a 4-hour shift, workers froze into icicles. Comfort and civilization in general in the wilderness is zero. Therefore, lumberjacks needed one that could be carried with them without cluttering the body, and could be carried into a residential trailer by hand. And this stove was supposed to heat up a housing of 20-30 cubic meters in a maximum of 20 minutes. Waste fuel: branches, wood chips. The firebox is large enough to fit pieces of thick, gnarled logs into it. Operating time from one fill of fuel is at least 8 hours. Where to get up at night and heat it up, when during the day your bones have been broken to the point of pain.

Depending on the weather and season thermal power needs to be regulated. The adjustment should be simple so that it can be performed by an untrained person or after a one-time introductory briefing.

At the same time, the stove had to be inexpensive and quite technologically advanced. Electronics requiring power supply, and automation in general, were excluded: the slightest breakdown in the taiga could cost the lives of an entire brigade. The use of expensive and special equipment-requiring special alloys was also excluded: Buleryan had to be available for production in any mechanical repair shop.

Additional requirements were put forward for operational safety. Firstly, the formation of waste must be excluded under any combustion mode and under any regulations of regulatory authorities. Secondly, the body temperature of the stove should not exceed 60-70 degrees, so that if you accidentally bump into it while asleep and “out of a hangover,” you will not get burned to the point of losing your ability to work. They say that Canadian lumberjacks know how to distill moonshine from pine cones. It's called sterno.

Buller device

Canadian engineers took as a basis the long-known and well-proven design of a slow-burning steel convection-tube air boiler; in common parlance - a heater oven. This is how the design appeared, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. The wide sealed firebox door is equipped with a blower in the form of a pipe with a rotary damper - a throttle. The throttle regulates the furnace power. Sometimes its handle is equipped with a scale graduated in degrees outside temperature, and a movable stop-limiter. At the same time, the throttle can be closed tightly if it is necessary to turn off the stove or stop the draft so that the room does not get cold.

Next comes an extensive firebox with curved walls. The batteries of heat exchanger pipes are recessed into them by 2/3 of the diameter. These 2/3 are the first highlight of the buller. With this ratio, 70% of the heat released in the firebox in smoldering mode is released to the air in the pipes. Another 10% spreads over the metal welded body of the furnace and heats the air in addition to them. At a room temperature of 20-25 degrees and a thermal power of 10-20 kW, this requires a temperature gradient of 40-45 degrees, i.e. the body of the furnace will be heated to 60-65 degrees. 5 degrees will give some margin of safety.

At 1/4 of the height of the firebox from the bottom there is a horizontal grate made of thick, at least 4 mm, steel, or a grate made of cast iron grates. At the top, also 1/4 of the height of the firebox, but already from the top, a horizontal partition that is not full in length is welded into the firebox, not reaching its front wall by 1/4-1/5 of the length of the firebox. Holes are made in the partition, precisely calibrated in diameter, location and total area (approximately 7% of the hearth area).

Air intake for afterburning is carried out from the combustion space. There are no separate vents for secondary air. The proportion of air taken by the afterburner from the firebox automatically changes depending on the properties of the fuel and the firebox mode. This is the second difference between the buller and classic designs with combined or separate air flows.

The space fenced off by the upper partition forms an afterburning chamber when operating in smoldering mode. Flue gases from the afterburner exit into the “hog” or “pig” - a horizontal part of the chimney 0.8-1 m long. The hog is mandatory for the buleryan; it somewhat slows down the combustion of the exhaust gases. Why this is necessary will be discussed below.

Immediately after the chimney is turned up, a damper (smoke choke) is installed in it, which switches the combustion mode. Because The heat capacity of the buller’s body, in contrast, is small and has almost no effect on heat transfer to the room; there is no view that completely blocks the chimney (and creates the danger of burning in case of careless or unskilled use).

The diameter of the chimney is equal to or 10-20% larger than that of the blower pipe, and a quarter is cut out in the damper damper (see figure). Therefore, no matter how you twist the throttle with the damper, the draft will not stop and fumes, even if it is formed, will not enter the room will go, but will fly out into the chimney. With the specified ratio of the diameters of the blower to the chimney and 25% of the opening area idle move in the damper the buller is safe, even if you forget to close the firebox door. True, in this case almost all the heat will fly out.

Above the gate is the third most important element of the buller - the economizer. In general, an economizer is a device that heats the working fluid entering the boiler with the residual heat of flue gases - water, air. But in this case, the role of the economizer is different.

The buller economizer is a vertical section of the chimney 1.5-3 m long, well insulated for heat: 40-50 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, or 30-40 mm of basalt wool, or 10-15 mm of expanded vermiculite. In the economizer, the flue gases finally burn out: the core of the gas jet in the hog does not have time to cool down too much, the IR reflected from the walls of the economizer increases the concentration of thermal energy in the jet, and the gas flares up. Firefighters are familiar with this effect as flame jumping.

The gas that flares up in the economizer tends to expand, but in a limited volume it has nowhere to go. A gas plug is formed, which is also well known to builders and owners of poorly designed stoves. The combustion in the firebox subsides, the plug cools down, slips through, the combustion intensifies again - the Buleryan, puffing sometimes more often, sometimes less often, automatically adjusts to the quality of the fuel and the position of the air throttle.

They say that this idea dawned on one of the developers while looking at a colleague puffing heavily on his pipe. The design team tried to solve the problem of stability of the combustion mode at low temperatures in the firebox. It was not possible to stay on the verge of smoldering and flame until a self-oscillatory combustion mode was introduced. So a canoe, if rowed alternately with one oar, from one side to the other, moves in a straight line. An overall buller efficiency of 80% is achieved only with an economizer. Without it - at most 60% something.

Sometimes, even often, due to some features of the buller (which will be discussed later), it is operated without an economizer, increasing combustion and putting up with a reduced, but still quite good efficiency. But then a good branded stove only lasts 2-3 years. Why? This will also be discussed further in the course of the presentation.

About pipe batteries

With a thermal power of up to 20-25 kW, the pipes in the batteries are made in the form of technologically simple semicircles, as on the left in Fig. In this case, the diameter of the pipes is 60-100 mm, and their number is 3-4 per battery.

With a higher thermal power, it is impossible to increase the diameter of the pipes proportionally; due to the low thermal conductivity of the air, the efficiency will decrease. It is necessary to increase the “tube” of the batteries. But with batteries of 6 or more pipes, the efficiency also drops; this is where the square-cube law applies to fuel loading.

Up to a power of 100-120 kW, designers get out of the situation by making pipes curved in the form of sinusoidal arcs and slightly inclined with the top of the arc downward. In this case, the firebox acquires a drop-shaped or ovoid cross-section, as on the right in Fig. With even greater power, computer modeling of the Buleryan with optimization is required, and a positive result of long, complex and expensive work is not guaranteed.

How Buleryan is heated

At first, when it is necessary to quickly warm up the room, dry and fast-burning fuel, such as paper or cardboard, is placed in the firebox. Since pellets went on sale, Canadians, going on their next logging voyage, take 2-3 bags with them; enough for the season.

The throttle and gate are fully opened, the fuel is ignited, and the firebox door is closed. The combustion is fiery, with a “bourgeois” efficiency of 20-40% (and not 5-7%, as advertisers of Buleryans write for comparison). At the same time, 4-6 cubic meters of air per minute, heated to 130-140 degrees, pour out from 4 pipe batteries, and the room quickly warms up.

The accelerating fuel load is given such that it burns down to coals 3-4 minutes before the end of warming up; some experience is needed here. If heat-resistant glass is built into the buller door, combustion can be monitored through it. But it is possible, only inconveniently, to do this by simply peeping into the ash pit.

As soon as the coals have burned down, large logs are placed on them. The bigger the better. You can have one, as long as it fits into the firebox. You can use peat briquettes or the same pellets, they are universal fuel. The blower throttle is now closed to the desired position, or until it stops at the movable power scale limiter. The gate is closed all the way, i.e. at 3/4.

The buller then goes into smoldering mode with partial pyrolysis and gasification. The air leaves the batteries at a temperature of 60-70 degrees, and the furnace body cools down to 50-55. Even if you fall on a bully at night in an Adam costume, you will swear, but you will not get burned.

Calling a buller a furnace or a gas generator, as is often done, is incorrect. The ratio of heat transferred to the air directly from the smoldering mass of fuel and afterburning pyrolysis gases continuously changes during the combustion of one charge with the throttle and gate position unchanged.

Firebox features

The first is that the thermal conductivity of air is small even compared to its, also small, heat capacity. Therefore, there is no point in “heating up” the buller: the air will not have time to absorb the excess heat, and it will have no choice but to fly out into the chimney.

The optimal temperature in the smoldering mass of the buller is 550-650 degrees. This ensures a fairly high durability of the furnace, welded from ordinary structural steel with a thickness of 4-10 mm, depending on the power. But pyrolysis at this temperature is weak and not complete, which leads to some unnecessary and unpleasant effects. Next we will talk about them in more detail.

If you raise the temperature in the furnace to 800 degrees or higher, then not only the efficiency will drop. And the steel of the housing will not only burn out, but will also undergo thermochemical corrosion due to the presence of hydrocarbon radicals and nitrogen oxides in the flue gases. You can avoid their formation by supplying air separately to the firebox and afterburner, but this will no longer be a buller, but another furnace. Difficult to operate and can be dangerous.

That is why manufacturers of buleryans categorically prohibit burning them with coal and coke. Carbon does not burn if it cools below 800-900 degrees. And if you give more air so that it doesn’t go out, not only will the efficiency drop, but an expensive special steel stove will burn out to holes in a season or two. The claim will not be accepted, the case is not covered by warranty.

Should I do it myself?

Before moving on to the features of installing and operating bulleryans, their improvements and varieties, you need to dwell on the question: is it worth making a buller with your own hands? The reason is primarily the selling price of ready-made factory ones. Bullers are very technologically advanced: the zero cycle of their production comes down to the manufacture of a couple of bending templates and welding jigs. The material of the product is even scrap metal.

A very good 10-15 kW Buleryan can be purchased for $200-250. At the same time, equipment that is usual for a camp repair shop is not kept at home, in a garage or on a summer cottage, if only because of the lack of suitable space. And ordering piece-by-piece rather large parts made of thick metal will cost much more.

Perhaps the only exception is if a self-made master works at a remote provincial factory, where most of the technological equipment is still idle. And the “Soviet style” leadership will allow him to free time use the machine park, and even allow you to rummage through the landfill and pick up workpieces. Although at current prices for scrap metal this is unlikely.

In this case, we will give advice: do not be tempted by narrow water pipes for batteries. The minimum diameter of air ducts is 60 mm; it is determined by the ratio of heat capacity and viscosity of air. A buller with a “picket fence” is unlikely to be more economical than any other slow-burning stove, but it is more difficult to make. A drawing of a design that is unsuccessful in this regard is shown in Fig. below, and an example of a correctly executed homemade buller is in Fig. on the right at the beginning of the section.

Video: review of homemade buleryan

Ready-to-purchase

Installing a buller in a heated room also has some features. Look at fig. On the left - the option is not entirely successful. And not only because it is necessary to chisel concrete floors, which requires a project with permission, load-bearing structures.

Firstly, to install a chimney passing through the attic and roof, you will need to collect a lot of paperwork in order to obtain permission from the fire department. And then do everything fire safety requirements, which will not be easy or cheap.

Secondly, the condensate that settles from the flue gases of the buller (sludge condensate) has amazing physical and chemical properties. A special section will be devoted to them, but for now we note the following: although there are no separate sanitary rules for this substance, it is better for yourself to stay away from it. And in this case, the sludge condensate remains in the room.

The option on the right is good because you need to drill not concrete, but brick wall. It is, of course, also load-bearing, but it is loaded with less than the ceiling. Control authorities turn a blind eye to an opening in it up to 150 mm in diameter. And the standard diameter of the buller chimney is 100 mm. And get a fire permit for external chimney much easier. And the sludge condensate will be outside.

In both cases, a foundation for the buleryan is not needed; a fireproof stand is sufficient. Other general conditions are as follows:

• The distance from a regular wall is at least 1000 mm.
• If the wall is covered with fire-resistant plaster (for example, vermiculite) with a layer of at least 25 mm, the buller can be moved 800 mm towards it.
• Within a radius of 1200 mm from the center of the firebox door there is a fire-resistant flooring, as for other stoves: steel from 1.5 mm on an asbestos cushion.
• The extension of the stand beyond the contour of the stove is at least 300 mm in all directions.
• If the buller is certified by the fire department for operation without a stand, is equipped with standard non-removable fireproof legs and a pocket-catcher in front of the ash pit door, you can place it without a stand directly on the floor, except for plank wood or plywood. You can use laminate or marmoleum.

Water bullers

Is it possible to adapt such a really good stove for water heating? It is possible, and water buleryans are produced by industry. But, looking at this (see figure), one inevitably recalls the statement of an outstanding Soviet submarine builder about the project of a giant nuclear-powered missile submarine of the Akula type, also known as the Typhoon: “This is a vivid example of the victory of technology over common sense.”

The authors of “water bullers” forget, or ignore, based on market demands, that buleryan was originally created as an air furnace. And the heat capacity of water is 800 times greater than that of air. In order for the exhaust gases to transfer their heat to it, they need to be entangled in the labyrinth of the water heating register. But in a buleryan with its side-heated heat exchanger, this is basically impossible, otherwise you will have to create a completely different furnace.

The only way to heat water for heating with a boiler is to intensify the combustion in the firebox. But at the same time, as discussed above, the efficiency will inevitably drop.

However, it is very simple to adapt any Buleryan for hot water supply. Let's say we have 2 batteries with 4 pipes each, and the whole furnace is 10 kW. As can be seen in the thermal image (see the figure on the left below), even with intensive heating for rapid heating, the air temperature in the battery nozzles is not higher than 160 degrees.

Now let’s put the most ordinary metal hoses on two pipes and connect them to the pipes passing through the DHW boiler. Horizontally, vertically – it doesn’t matter. 2.5 kW will go into the water. If an 80-100 liter tank is insulated with 40-50 mm thick EPS, then in half an hour the water in it will heat up to 60-70 degrees, and then this temperature will be maintained. For comparison: 3.5-5 kW heating elements are installed in household 100-liter electric boilers.

This system is also good because without any automation, boiling of water is absolutely excluded. Let's remember the school physics problem for the especially (without quotes) gifted and savvy: how to heat water exactly to 100 degrees without letting it boil?

The answer is: take a pan and put wooden blocks in it for thermal insulation. Place another, smaller pan on them. Pour water into both pans and put on fire. The water in the outer pan will boil, but its temperature will not rise above 100 degrees, because... the heat of the fire will be used to transfer the latent heat of evaporation of water to the water.

The water in the inner pan will also heat up to 100 degrees, but there will be no temperature difference between it and the outside, and the heat required to evaporate the water will not be able to transfer to the inner pan. The water in it will heat up to exactly 100 degrees without any signs of boiling.

In the case of a “water buller”, in air with a temperature of 140 degrees there is no reserve of heat to ensure boiling of water. When its temperature approaches 100 degrees, the air in the heat exchanger will rapidly cool, the temperature gradient will approach 0, and the water will never boil.

About heating a private house

Okay, the reader may say, but you need to warm up! Yes, but stove heating is used mainly in private households, and there water heating is pure prejudice, a stereotype of “centralized” thinking. For the efficiency of a central thermal power plant, indeed, the heat capacity of the coolant is of paramount importance, otherwise it will cool down before it reaches subscribers.

A ? What, should we run a line from the kitchen or furnace around the entire area to the living room/bedroom? Isn't it easier to disperse to rooms? warm air, which the buller gives, as they say, with the top? Judge for yourself:

1. Air ducts can be made simple tool from cheap materials: tin, plasterboard, plywood, just cardboard, but the pipes are expensive, they need to be bent, boiled, soldered.
2. No registers, expansion tank, fittings, or automation are needed.
3. You can forget about fistulas and leaks once and for all.
4. Ductwork with fans and louvers does not require a design or permit. It is enough to calculate for yourself which section should go into which room.
5. Heat transfer into the walls (and this is up to 15% of heat loss through water) is zero; here the poor thermal conductivity of the air works to our advantage.
6. Install adjustable blinds at the exits - here you have easy, quick temperature control in rooms. It’s better not to compare it with setting up water heating.
7. If you place the exit blinds on the walls farthest from the window above the floor, then the air will give up its heat to the room by the time it gets to where it can heat the street. And everyone knows how batteries in window sills increase the entropy of the Universe.
8. The same technique will give a warm floor without any additional costs and works.
9. The walls are straight, there are no deformities in sight - design the interior as you please.

Video: Buleryan and garage heating

Bullers without pipes

Professor Innokenty Nikolaevich Butakov (not to be confused with Alexander Vladimirovich Butakov, also a professor, but a lawyer) actually invented the Buleryan back in the 20s of the last century, attaching an afterburner to the top with a heat shield. Nowadays, stoves such as “Butakov”, “Professor Butakov”, “Student” in modern design (see figure) successfully compete with Buleryans on the domestic market. Their specifications and the principle of operation are similar, like identical twins, but making “Butakov” yourself is much easier, as can be seen from the figure.

Computer buleryan

The first buller was calculated almost on a slide rule. Oddly enough, they were the first to figure out how to properly simulate it on a computer and optimize it in Novosibirsk, at Termofor. Now their “Fire-battery” stoves of various sizes are one of the hits on the market. And it’s not surprising: having carefully calculated all the processes, we managed to place a hot water circuit for hot water supply and hob with burner, see fig.

Stove “Fire battery”

The “Fire-Battery” stoves immediately drew a volley of criticism. But here the complaints of the classics of literature come to mind: “All the same petty attacks on the font, vignettes, typos...”

“It doesn’t correspond to my idea of ​​stoves...” Sorry, sir, there’s no arguing about tastes. "harmful to health." By whom, when and where was it proven or at least noticed? “Not a stove, but some kind of boiler for a destroyer.” Sir, you flatter the developers. The best minds in heating engineering worked on boilers for destroyers and cruisers. 70,000 kW in a volume of 8 cubic meters. m. with an efficiency of 97% - if this is not perfection, then what is perfection at all?

What's bad about it?

Yes, the bullers have no visible flaws. That’s what they call it: a stove without flaws. But there is still one hidden one, and a serious one.

Any organic fuel burns, releasing the so-called. reaction water. It is a complete analogue of metabolic water formed in living organisms: it is released during the breakdown of organic molecules. Due to the low temperature in the furnace, there is more reaction water in the exhaust of Buleryan than other slow-burning furnaces; in them this water partially participates in pyrolysis.

The second point is the mineral components of wood. Buller sellers present as an advantage the fact that the wood in the buller burns without even leaving ash. But there is ash in the wood initially, and in bullers, ash particles fly out into the chimney.

The third is hydrocarbon radicals. These are chemically very active remnants of organic molecules that have not completely decomposed. All this taken together reduces the efficiency of the buller by only 5-7% and by volume constitutes the same share of its exhaust. But for household Buleryans, these percentages turn out to be truly lethal.

Let's remember Carnot's formula. If you take a pyrolysis boiler with 1500 degrees in the combustion chamber and 300 in the exhaust, it will show an efficiency of 80%. For Buleryan, the same 80% is obtained at 600 and 120, respectively.

The reaction water from the pyrolysis boiler does not have time to condense in the chimney and dissipates without a trace in the atmosphere. The ash settles under the firebox. From where it has to be raked out from time to time. It contains purely mineral salts suitable for fertilizer. The boiler also produces organic radicals in small quantities, but already 1-2 m from the mouth of the chimney they are oxidized by atmospheric oxygen to carbon dioxide and water, because they were formed at high temperatures and are very light, of low molecular weight

Not so in a buller. The reaction water immediately after the economizer falls into condensate. Each drop of it is a thin film rolled into a lump, and the physical chemistry of thin films is strikingly different from that of massive aggregates of matter. And then there are ash particles, heavy organic radicals. As a result, not just dirty water settles into the sump, but a cocktail of monstrous toxicity, carcinogenicity and God knows what else.

This crap (without quotes) needs to go somewhere. Leaving the end of the “pipe that goes to the ground” open will gradually undermine the foundation, and you won’t be able to eat vegetables from the garden. Slowly take it out and pour it out - the properties of the Buleryan sludge condensate are such that it cannot be hidden from the SES and environmentalists, with all that it implies.

That’s why bullers are also called greenhouse stoves. They are most often installed in greenhouses without an economizer (see figure). Flowers, early and all-season vegetables are highly profitable products; it will not be expensive not only to put up with worse efficiency, but also to change the entire stove in a year or two or three.

True, the exhaust from such a buller still smells, but greenhouses themselves emit methane, ethylene, and so on in the same spirit. Therefore, according to sanitary rules, they cannot be built near residential buildings, so the smoke from the buller doesn’t even require a separate “solution to the issue.”

Some cunning flower growers, especially in places poor in water, judging that tulips, roses and carnations are not eaten, and many plants with luxurious flowers are poisonous in themselves, install bullers according to the full scheme, and the sludge condensate, after slightly filtering, is put into drip irrigation systems. However, tomato and strawberry experiments of this kind always end in resuscitation of buyers, investigation and loud scandals with sanctions, or even prison.

What's best for yourself

Methods for recycling sludge condensate have not yet been developed, either technically, commercially, or organizationally. Therefore, although the legislation and sanitary rules do not specifically stipulate anything about stove sludge, it is still better to place a greenhouse stove in a greenhouse. And at home, for yourself, work hard and install a double-circuit boiler, pyrolysis or gas. Expensive, who can argue. But health is more important.

Video: review of the Buleryan stove