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Features of the sewerage device

Despite the fact that people today strive to do more and more in order to get closer to the maximum comfortable conditions residence in many populated areas There is not only no centralized sewage system, but also no water supply. Both can be successfully dealt with as follows. A few words have already been said about plumbing (in this case, the old proven method will come to the rescue - installing a well), and with waste system the issue is resolved with the help of such a structure as a home sewer system. On modern stage this design is a complex that directly includes sewerage equipment, communication mechanisms (pipelines) and engineering treatment facilities (septic tanks, cesspools). Depending on device sewer system, we can conclude that it is designed to take wastewater from the source (from the sink, bathtub or toilet), carry it around the house (more precisely, under it), remove it outside and finally disinfect and clean it.

It is worth mentioning what can result from improper installation of the sewer system. The most harmless option would be a constantly clogged sink or bathtub. This may happen due to the fact that low-quality material was used during installation or the pipes will be thinner than required sanitary standards. In addition to the fact that illiterate installation can cause blockages, it quite often becomes the reason that the water (intended for drinking and washing) in the well can be poisoned by feces.

This usually happens when the joints between the pipes are not well secured.

As a result, leaks are observed, and wastewater saturates the soil and goes even into its deepest layers, including the ability to reach a well. drinking water, which as a result will become completely unsuitable for consumption.

How to properly carry out work on the removal of a sewer pipe?

In addition to all of the above, the soil saturated with liquid begins to vibrate and this can negatively affect the construction of the house. So, over time, you may notice cracking in the foundation or even walls. Well, the most unpleasant sign of a malfunction or malfunction in the sewerage system, and at the same time the most obvious, of course, will be bad smell, reaching all ends of your site (and maybe further). That is why it is necessary not only to correctly connect all pipelines and all equipment with them, but also to dig a cesspool at an appropriate distance from the house. The process of removing the sewer pipe from the house depends on at what stage of the house construction you are doing it.

So, for example, in order to remove the sewer from a newly built house, it will be necessary to resort to drilling the foundation. In this case, the diameter of the hole should be slightly larger. This is necessary so that, as a result of possible shrinkage of the foundation (which happens very often with new buildings), it cannot have any impact on the pipe laid through it. If you have not completed the house, then removing the pipes intended for drainage will not be difficult. To do this, you can wall up the pipe during the process of laying the foundation, but do not forget to mark in which places it should be, so that later, while digging a ditch, you can get to the pipe. A house that has been standing for several years most likely will not settle, so the removal of the sewer pipe must again be carried out by drilling the foundation. In this case, you do not need to make a large gap (as in a newly built house); a hole whose diameter is 5 cm larger than the diameter of the outlet pipe itself will be sufficient.

If the sewer pipe is supposed to come from a house located in middle lane Russia, then the depth of the laid communications should reach half a meter, or even more (up to 70 cm). In more severe conditions, it is necessary to deepen the pipes to a much greater extent (after all, in severe frosts, the soil in some areas of our state freezes even 1 m deep), accordingly, everything that is in it will also freeze. That is why calculate the size of the recess as carefully as possible. Another mandatory component of the sewer pipe outlet system is that the pipe at the entrance to the foundation should not come into contact with it. To do this, a metal sleeve is inserted into the foundation hole. Next, it should be taken into account that the pipes should not come into contact with this part of the structure. In other words, there should be a gap between the pipe and its surrounding elements. To make this possible, either polystyrene foam or thermal insulation film is used to wrap the pipe. Thus, the hole is filled, preventing the sleeve from touching the pipe.

External work required to remove the home sewerage system

After all the household work on fastening the drainage pipes from the sinks, toilets, and bathtubs has been completed, as well as after drilling a hole in the foundation and installing a pipe in it, you can begin to install the drainage communications. In private homes, as a reservoir for accumulation Wastewater, cesspools with septic tanks are used. They should (for sanitary and hygienic safety reasons) be built at some distance from the house. Therefore, in order for all the drains to reach this hole, it is necessary to dig a trench. Its depth in the middle zone of our state should not be less than 50 cm, and the length will depend on how far the hole is from the house. Do not forget that all waste will drain only if the pipes are located on a slope. Accordingly, if initially the depth of the pipe (where it passes through the foundation) was 50 cm, then with each meter the trench will need to be deepened by about 2-2.5 cm.

At the bottom of the trench it is necessary to lay a sand cushion, which should be compacted (you can spill the sand with water for this). Pipes connected to each other should be placed on it. For external work, materials such as cast iron, asbestos cement or plastic are usually used. The final element of each sewer system is a cesspool or septic tank. The first element is the most common. The outlet pipe must go into the pit, which is a small but deep pit. You can’t just leave it as it is after digging it out, as the soil will definitely begin to crumble. In order to strengthen the cesspool, you must either purchase concrete rings (which are inserted into the finished pit) or build the walls in it using bricks. The bottom of the cesspool is not finished in any way, since most of the liquid will go through it into the deeper layers of the soil.

When constructing a building, a common sewer pipe is installed at the stage of laying the foundation. When the building is ready, internal pipelines and a septic tank are connected to it. If you do not install this section of pipeline in time, you will need to spend a lot of effort to drill a hole for the sewer outlet from the house under the foundation.

Design stages

Sewage outlet diagram

The design of a sewerage system in a private house is created even before the construction of the pipeline begins. It should take into account the following points:

• is it possible to connect the sewerage system to the central communication complex;
• will live in the house permanently or temporarily;
• how many residents and potential guests are planned;
• How far are the rooms with sewer drains from each other?

If you are not planning to connect to central system, choose which type treatment plant will be installed: a cesspool, a septic tank, a bio-treatment station.

When building a new house, the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank is designed simultaneously with the building plan. This allows all catchment points to be installed closer to each other, which facilitates the construction of a simple and efficient network with a single drain pipe.

For a large private cottage, you can make an exception and install a system of two risers, but the exits must be located at a distance of at least half a meter.

Rules for draining sewerage from a private house

To avoid damage to the communication line, the depth of the main sewer pipe at the exit from a private house must be at least 0.5 m from the blind area.

It is also necessary to take into account other requirements of SNIPs and SanPiNs:

• The distance from the sewer under the floor of the house to the storage tank is 5–10 m.
• It is not allowed to construct a cesspool at a distance of less than two meters from the neighboring plot and 30 meters from a well or borehole (for sandy soil not less than 50 meters).
• The slope is created so that the decrease for each meter of the pipeline is approximately 3 cm.
• The depth of the sewer line is below the freezing point of the ground. If this cannot be done, the pipe sections will have to be insulated or equipped with electrical heating.

The rules also take into account the installation of an inspection well with a hatch, which must be located at a distance of at least three meters from the building.

A treatment facility that requires periodic pumping using sewage disposal equipment is erected in such a way that it is convenient to drive up to it.

For gravity flow of sewage storage capacity located lower than the level of the building, or install pumping equipment.

Installation of a sewer line under the foundation of a house must be carried out according to certain rules. The pipes are assembled by inserting them into each other. Special rubber gaskets are installed in the sockets, the joints are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and coated with liquid soap or special lubricants.

Preparatory work

The sewer network under the floor slab is usually assembled from plastic round pipes with a diameter of 110 mm. The width of the ditch with this cross-section is at least 0.6 m; a special shock-absorbing layer of sand or crushed stone 100 mm thick is poured onto its bottom.

You will also need:

• sleeves with a cross-section larger than the diameter of the pipeline;
• fitting elements (tees, bends with plugs, couplings);
• adapters;
• fasteners.

For sealing, a special gun is used, into which a balloon filled with silicone is inserted. Other tools are selected depending on the method of creating the outlet and piping.

Methods for draining sewerage depending on the type of foundation

Columnar foundation

The choice of method determines the type of foundation of the building. With the right approach, it is possible to remove the sewer line from an already rebuilt house.

Column and pile foundation

It is easiest to remove the sewer from a private house with a similar foundation to the street. Columns or piles allow installation of communication networks even after the construction of the building. During the work, make sure that the ditch is dug at the maximum possible distance from the columns. The close location of the trench will weaken the earth around them and reduce their load-bearing performance.

To connect to the sewer, you will need to make a hole in the floor slab for the main pipe outlet.

When installing a pipeline under columnar foundation take into account that the space under the building is not heated. Insulation of communications is carried out thermal insulation materials or install additional heating using an electric cable.

Monolithic slab

Monolithic slab

Installation of communication lines is possible only before filling monolithic foundation. When installing sewer pipes you will need sleeves. They will prevent the slab base from overloading the pipeline, and will also protect against damage to the main networks in the slab when pouring the concrete mixture.

In the event of an accident, the sleeves will allow you to quickly remove the damaged part and put a new section of pipe in its place.

The communication network, which is protected by the sleeves, is installed directly into the trench, into which earth is then poured and concrete is poured.

Tape base

Strip foundation

The conclusion about such a foundation can be made both during the construction of the building and already existing house. In the first option, the process is carried out while pouring the base. In the second, the method depends on how deep the foundation is installed.

Remove the sewer through the deep strip foundation possible this way:

1. A hole is cut in the formwork. A sleeve made of a metal pipe is inserted into it.
2. The part is fixed and filled with concrete mixture.
3. A sewer pipe is inserted into the resulting case.

For the work you will need a hammer drill and a grinder.

If the base is not deep, you can make a dig using a shovel or drill. To do this, the future pipeline is installed in a trench, the bottom of which is below the freezing level of the soil directly below the base. To protect communications from overloads, a piece of metal pipe is put on in advance.

Using directional drilling

Making communications exit through the base to the street is not an easy job. The use of the inclined drilling method will help to facilitate it. This technique is suitable for significant thickness of the strip base and involves punching an inclined well to the lower boundary of the building foundation. The channel is necessary for the output of communication networks.

Building a sewer system in a private house is quite simple. You can do everything yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists, and save some money, and then walk around and be proud.

First, you need to confirm with your wife (husband) the location of everyone plumbing units. Sink in the kitchen, dishwasher, washing machine, toilet, bathtub and sink in the bathroom. In general, consider every little detail...

Sewage scheme in the house

In order not to buy too much, you need to draw a sewerage wiring diagram. Below is an example of mine.

It’s not at all necessary to draw everything out like that, I tried so hard for you. It is enough to sketch out the dimensions of your house on a scale, on a piece of paper in a box. Also, on a scale, put marks on those places where there should be connection points for plumbing fixtures. Then connect these points with straight lines (pipes) and corners (bends). It should be taken into account that the pipes have lengths: 15 cm, 25 cm, 50 cm, 75 cm, 1 m, 1.5 m, 2 m and 3 m, and the bends have angles: 15°, 30°, 45°, 67.5° and 87.5°. There are also various tees and crosses, but their angles are poorer: 45° and 87.5°, but the crosses have the ability to connect several pipes various diameters. Here is a catalog containing the entire range of internal sewer pipes from one plant. The products of all factories are approximately the same, the only difference is the quality of casting and sealing rubber bands, so there is no point in chasing brands, and you can decide on a purchase at your local hardware store.

When planning to turn a sewer pipe into horizontal plane(right or left) it is necessary that the angle of rotation is as smooth as possible. For example, you should not install a bend with an angle of 87.5°; you need to install at least two bends with angles of 45° or 3 by 30°. If possible, it would be better to do this:

If your pipe runs through the entire house, then you need to provide inspection hatches and cleaning. This is what SNiP 2.04.01-85* says about this “ Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings":

It is better to plant around the house with a diameter of 110 mm. It's easier to clean and less likely to clog. In my case, it would be possible to save money by laying a pipe from the kitchen sink to the bathtub with a diameter of 50 mm, but it is 8 meters long, and in the future this saving will result in headaches and unnecessary expenses throughout the entire life of the house. In general, questionable savings.

Sewer ventilation

It is also necessary to provide sewer ventilation. It is needed so that the toilet flushes waste products well. Surely you have already been in private houses with all the amenities, where there is a bathtub and a toilet, and in general, everything is like in the city, but the toilet flushes somehow wrong... Somehow the water drains sluggishly, not at the same speed, with which you are accustomed in the city. And the water in the toilet, after flushing, remains at a level slightly lower than usual, and after a while it gradually rises to the same level. Probably the toilet is bad... But it’s not! There is simply no sewer ventilation system provided. The water does not drain well due to the fact that a vacuum is created between the toilet and the water going into the sewer (excuse the pun), and the level in the toilet is restored smoothly as the water, after flushing, reaches the sewer and air enters the pipe. Difficult? Nothing complicated, really...

It looks something like this:

Please note that after flushing, the toilet is already closed with a hydraulic valve (water that is constantly in the toilet), and air does not enter the system through it. At the same time, the water leaving through the pipe creates a vacuum. As a result, water drains slowly and contributes to the formation of blockages. There are cases that when the toilet is flushed, the vacuum sucks water from the hydraulic valve above the sink, and the pipe of this sink becomes a vent until water enters the hydraulic valve. The smell is not the most pleasant.

In order to avoid this, it is necessary to install sewer ventilation in the house, then everything will play differently. There will be no vacuum, because it will be compensated by fresh country air from the street.

I decided to run the sewer ventilation pipe inside the bathroom ventilation duct, and then run the chimney pipes through the wall of the chimney pipe above the roof so that they go out into the street. different points. It is prohibited to discharge the exhaust part of sewage into the ventilation duct!

What to do if sewer ventilation is not provided? Invented for this purpose ventilation valves for sewerage. The whole point is that to eliminate the vacuum it is not necessary that fresh country air be supplied. The one in the house is enough. Therefore, sewer ventilation can be vented inside the house. But!!! It will, to put it mildly, stink... To prevent this from happening, you just need to install a special sewer ventilation valve. This is a small device that allows air from the house into the drain, but does not allow air from the sewer into the house. So all is not lost!

Sewage installation

The first thing to consider when installing a sewer system is the slope of the pipes. SNiP 2.04.01-85 says about this:

“...non-calculated sections of pipelines with a diameter of 40–50 mm should be laid with a slope of 0.03, and with a diameter of 85 and 100 mm - with a slope of 0.02...”

Simply put, if you have a pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm, then the end of each meter should be 3 cm lower than the beginning of this meter.

If you have a 110th pipe, then it needs to be laid a little smoother. The end of the meter segment should be only 2 cm below the beginning of this segment.

The second thing that needs to be taken into account is the maximum slope of the pipe; it should not exceed 15 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe. If you don’t take this into account, then the liquid masses will disappear faster than the solid ones (well, you know what I mean :)) and, sooner or later, you are guaranteed a fun weekend.

To begin with, it would be nice to estimate: is there enough excess? For example, in my case, the most long distance from the kitchen sink to the sewer outlet of the house. The length of this pipe is 12 m. This means that the excess between these points should be:

12×0.02=0.24 m

0.02 is the required slope for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Accordingly, if you hide the pipe under the floor, then only the slope of the pipe will need 24 cm, plus the thickness of the concrete floor, plus the diameter of this pipe will total 40-50 centimeters below the zero level of the house. At this level we will have to “cut” into the pipe that was laid when the foundation was poured.

Can we do this? Great, let's move on. Remember, at the stage of pouring the base, I concreted the outlet for the sewer?

We cut off this pipe at a level of 40-50 cm (or what is your excess there?) below the zero level of the house, put a repair coupling on it and begin laying out the sewerage system. It is better to secure the pipe with special clamps. I screwed them directly to the concrete plinth. It holds securely, after which you can safely fill everything with sand, the pipe will remain in place, and its slope will not change.

It is much easier to connect pipes if you lubricate them with something first. At least sunflower oil.

After installation, we put in a garden hose and look: is there a leak somewhere?

To summarize, it should be noted that sewer installation is not at all complicated and you can easily do it yourself, even if you have never done it. The main thing is don’t forget about the slope;)

Removing the sewer pipe from the house.

And just to summarize, I would like to mention the drainage system from the house. To do this, let me remind you once again about pouring the foundation. It’s great that at that time a sewer pipe and a water supply pipe to the house were installed. Here she is at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house.

Now, in order to connect to it from outside the house, it is enough to dig a trench in the right place, unearth the pipe, remove the bag, clean everything from dirt and connect the sewer pipe leading to the septic tank.

I’m afraid to imagine what would have awaited me if I had not thought through this tiny nuance while pouring the foundation.

Don't forget about the little things!

To make a sewer in own home, many related problems need to be solved. The biggest difficulty is getting the pipeline out of the house. The reason is quite simple. The house always stands on a strong foundation.

It is poured to different depths, so there are several methods for removing the pipe:

• Laying a pipeline under the foundation;
• Installation through walls.

Sewer pipes are mainly laid under floors. This is due to technological necessity. Therefore, the installation of such a pipeline has to be done across the entire foundation area.

Having ready house, the question immediately arises: how to remove the sewerage through the foundation? To remove the sewer line from own home it is necessary to install a boundary system that connects the septic tank to the outgoing pipes.

The pipe outlet passes through the foundation. Moreover, the installation depth must exceed the freezing value of the soil. The work is performed in the following sequence.

Stage 1. A trench is being dug in which the outer and internal system.

Stage 2. A hole is made in the foundation for the sewer. To work you will need:

• Hammer;
• Metal punch;
• Electric drill;
• Set of drills.

If it is not possible to make a hole with such tools, a special diamond installation is used.

The drilling process is always quite complicated, because you have to drill concrete base. If a reinforcing mesh was made, you will have to use a grinder. It is easy to handle the fittings. Sometimes you have to work for several days to get the hole you want.

First, the location where the pipeline will be installed is determined on the surface of the foundation. A circle is drawn in this place, and its diameter must exceed the size of the sewer pipe, together with the sleeve.

A perforator drills concrete into maximum depth. Any reinforcement bars encountered are cut off with a grinder.

Important! When it becomes necessary to create a hole large diameter, for example, for installing sewerage in big house, use a drilling rig.

To make a hole in concrete foundation, builders use several methods:

• Diamond drilling. Considered the most the best option. The foundation material does not receive damage during such work. This technology is one of the most expensive, even if you rent such a machine;
• Hammer. Performed percussion drilling. Negative side Slotting is considered to cause microcracks. Concrete begins to peel off from the reinforcing mesh;
• Impactless drilling. One of the most safe ways, time consuming. Along the entire perimeter of the desired big hole drilled a large number of smaller ones. The concrete plug is knocked out with a sledgehammer, and the reinforcement is cut off with metal scissors.

Advice! The installation of the sewer pipe must take place at a slight slope. To do this, the diameter of the hole is made slightly larger (10-20 mm).

Stage 3. The sleeve is first placed in the made channel, then the pipeline is laid. The resulting cracks are closed and sealed polyurethane foam. It also becomes a good heat insulator.

Undermining under a concrete foundation

If the septic tank is located close to the house (within five meters), and the thickness of the foundation does not exceed one meter, the most simple option Sewer installation involves creating a tunnel in the place where the pipeline intersects with the base of the house.

The trench is not very deep, which reduces the complexity of such an operation.

Before starting to lay under the foundation, carry out marking work. The point where the pipe coincides with the future sewer passage is marked.

When performing such work, the thickness of the walls, which is the reference point, must be taken into account. If this rule is not followed, the trenches may not line up. Their connection will not occur in a specific place. We'll have to start all over again. This will cause additional financial costs.

When the trench is ready, a sewer pipe is laid in it, maintaining the required slope.

If the pipeline is shallow, the sewer passage must be insulated, prevent freezing of the channel and the formation of ice. It can cause blockage of the entire space.

Backfilling the trench is carried out carefully, small portions of soil. Thus, the removed pipe is not allowed to move, and its slope is not allowed to change.

Passes right under the foundation additional pipe, the diameter of which is much larger than the sewer. The length of this segment is made equal to the width of the foundation of the house. It plays the role of a sleeve in which the main pipeline is laid.

This device protects the sewer system in case of unexpected subsidence of the foundation. When are they held? renovation work, it is much easier to replace the damaged area.

Slab foundation and laying of communications

This type of foundation requires very precise calculations at the very beginning of the project.

After pouring such a foundation with errors, it will be impossible to lay the necessary communications.
Therefore, a trench is dug first. All communications and sewer pipes are laid in it, dressed in special protective sleeves.

IN slab foundation the sleeve plays a very important role. She protects monolithic slab from high pressure, and also facilitates the process of replacing a damaged section of pipe. If the sleeve is missing, it is simply impossible to replace the pipe in such a foundation. The pipe can also be damaged when the foundation is being poured.

Conclusion

Pipeline installation requires special attention. It is imperative to take into account the type of foundation and use only appropriate technology. Only in this case can we talk about correctly performed work, which will facilitate sewerage maintenance in the future.

The installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the layout and installation scheme. This allows you to arrange all the plumbing fixtures as conveniently as possible, make correct slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work uninterruptedly, and if one of the elements breaks or becomes clogged, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up plans for internal and external (external) sewerage for a private home or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Drawing up a diagram starts from the farthest plumbing fixture in the attic or upper floor. All horizontal lines necessarily come down to one riser. To save money and Supplies bathrooms on different tiers are located along the same vertical line.

The sewage system in the house consists of:

• Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
• Drains from all plumbing;
• Pipes leading wastewater into the external sewer system;
• Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
• Clamps in walls that support pipes and give them direction and angle.
• Central riser.

It is important that there is no transition in the house from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of floors of the building, the presence of a basement, the amount of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and connection to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram All elements should be displayed to scale so that in case of planned repairs or emergency situation It was possible to quickly understand the wiring and find the breakdown.

External line

External sewerage starts with the pipeline from the foundation. The wastewater is discharged to the septic tank, cesspool or filter structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). There is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood located outside.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be installed near windows, with access to the yard or near smokers. Categorically it is prohibited to connect it with a regular ventilation shaft . Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special one vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for collecting drains, autonomous installations are used.

1. cesspool. It is easy to organize on site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of wastewater. There is a possibility of dirt getting into groundwater and an unpleasant odor.
2. Do-it-yourself septic tank made of brick filled with concrete or ready-made reinforced concrete stakes c. It performs its functions well, is durable and strong. The disadvantages include long installation times and significant construction costs.
3. Industrial off-grid installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered due to the speed of construction, High Quality And long-term operation equipment.
4. Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. It features the highest degree of purification and high productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

You definitely need to decide on the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that Each resident of the house uses 200 liters of water per day. The wastewater in the septic tank settles for 3 days. Based on these data, we get Exact size waste tank.

So, a family of 4 consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, you need to select a septic tank of exactly this volume. If desired, you can make a small reserve in case the tank is maximally loaded. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main fittings:

• Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
• Tees with a side section at 45 or 90 degrees.
• Elbow for connecting pipes with different heights (RUB 450/piece).
• Straight-line double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in bells (from 30 rub.).
• Revision (60 rub.)
• reduction of various parameters (from 40 rubles/piece)
• Hood hood (from 50 RUR)

Before you begin to equip a sewer system, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the basic requirements put forward for it. As we will tell you in a special review.

Water can be not only beneficial, but also harmful to human body. What kind of coarse filter? would be better suited for a summer residence, find out from this.

Optimal slope and depth during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of installation. With a cross-section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid blockages and “greasy” sewage in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When installed on plot of land the same angle of inclination is maintained. The sleeve (a pipe with a larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewerage system, and located 30 cm above the soil freezing level.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable– you will have to make a very deep septic tank. If a constant slope is maintained, this will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost increases due to additional concrete rings and more durable (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or insulation with a heating cable can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross-section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

To organize a sewer system in a private house, pipes can be used cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

External (PVC)

Designed for external networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite their relative cheapness, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and hidden installation . For them, it is recommended to connect using the method cold welding. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

• Single or multi-layer.
• Foam propylene is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
• The connection is made by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the design and installation of an external system

Brief instructions on how to make local autonomous system sewerage in private country house(at the dacha) with your own hands, it looks like this:

1. Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
2. Formation of a sand cushion.
3. Layout of all component elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
4. Connecting fragments starting from the exit internal sewerage. For greater reliability The fastening points are treated with silicone sealant.
5. Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
6. Backfill the trench, trying to compact sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding sudden loads at right angles. Thickness sand backfill — not less than 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, shaped parts for external utility networks. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the area with an intermediate inspection well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer system for a private home, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house, do everything according to the diagram yourself and lay the pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be of better quality if follow several instructions:

When installing sewerage it is important to take into account every nuance: placement of plumbing fixtures, topography of the site, location of the intake manifold or septic tank, depth of pipe laying and angle of inclination.

Only with careful charting, careful planning and order By installing a sewerage system in a private house or country house with your own hands, you can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain wastewater well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.