When constructing, finishing, and repairing low-rise buildings, you can confidently carry out work upstairs only on scaffolding, which is quite realistic to make with your own hands from wood.

It is not profitable for owners to buy metal structures, because they are expensive and are not used so often.

Homemade scaffolding can be made from materials available locally. personal plots. If there is not enough of this, you can buy boards and beams, and after construction is completed, use them for other needs.

Scaffolding materials

It is important that wooden blanks were dry and strong, so the presence of knots, cracks, and other defects on them is unacceptable. If possible, it is advisable to buy materials made from spruce; pine usually has more flaws. In principle, you can use any durable wood, the reliability of which must be checked before construction.

To do this, bricks, cinder blocks, and large stones of suitable shape are placed on two low supports.

You should put a board with a thickness of 30 mm, stand on top of it and jump several times. This must be done by a person with good reaction and coordination in order to land safely on the ground in case of failure. If the board passes the test, it can be used to assemble scaffolding.

To erect a building structure with your own hands, you will also need bars with a square cross-section and a side length of 100 mm, a tape measure, and a circular saw will be very helpful.

Screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are quite understandable. Nails are easy to drive and provide strength to scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The inconvenience is that building structure almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this regard; they can be unscrewed without damage wooden surfaces, but they are characterized by great fragility. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break when hit or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger; they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works on the site with his own hands and the wood is needed in its most complete form, you can use anodized screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Design options

You can make construction materials with your own hands wooden scaffolding different types, the choice of a specific option depends on the specifics of the upcoming work.

Scaffold

If you plan to decorate the house lightweight materials, then scaffolding is quite sufficient, the manufacture of which requires less material and time. There are two types of attached structures, the diagram of each resembles the letter G.

The location of the construction scaffolding varies:

• in one case, the short horizontal part of the letter L rests on the wall, and its vertical part is slightly recessed into the ground under the working load;
• in the second type of scaffolding, the vertical part of the letter G rests against the wall. The entire weight is concentrated on the thrust elements, the upper part of which is driven into a corner - the junction of the two main bars.

The structure is often called Armenian forests, and the vertical part of them can be shortened, then the scaffolding takes on the form of a triangle, the base of which rests on the board. The entire load is concentrated on it.

Despite the fact that the scaffolding does not seem very reliable, in practice its strength and ease of use have been repeatedly proven. Triangular scaffolding should be located every meter; if possible, they are nailed to the wall; if there is none, then they are fixed with stops. To ensure safety, the place where the thrust bars are immersed in the ground is additionally wedged.

To make sure that the scaffolding does not move sideways along the wall, the stops are additionally sewn together with bars, which increases the rigidity of the structure. All thrust bars and boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm; boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm are also placed on the flooring. The horizontal surface is nailed or secured with self-tapping screws, otherwise it is dangerous to move on them.

Construction trestles

Wooden scaffolding with this interesting name are known to everyone because they are often used both on construction sites and in major renovation apartments The convenience of construction trestles lies in the fact that they do not rest on the wall and allow covering with siding and many other facing materials.

Standing on top of a trestle, you can attach both the top and bottom of the panels, then move the structure and continue working on an adjacent section of the wall. Cross members are placed between the posts of such wooden scaffolding; they strengthen the structure and at the same time serve as a ladder. The racks on one side can be fixed strictly vertically, which will allow you to place portable scaffolding close to the wall.

Full scaffolding

The structure of traditional wooden scaffolding has not changed over the years. It is well known to everyone from movies Soviet years and posters in which charming girls, standing on scaffolding, smiled life-affirmingly at enthusiastically working young men.

To make such scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a lot of lumber; the advantage of the design is that it can withstand heavy loads and allows you to carry out work of any degree of complexity.

Before you start assembling scaffolding, you should stock up in advance on boards 50 mm thick and bars for crossbars up to 1 m long. At the first stage, racks are made from long bars or boards connected by crossbars. The scaffolding will be especially stable if the racks are placed at an angle rather than strictly vertically.

Depending on the future load on the flooring and the thickness of the boards on it, the racks are placed at a distance of 1.5 to 2.5 m from each other and reinforced with jibs. There is no such thing as too many crossbars and jibs; the more of them, the more stable the scaffolding will be.

Note! If the height of the structure exceeds 3 m, then additional jibs resting on the ground support the vertical beams of the racks.

IN last resort On the bars located along the perimeter of the racks on top, a flooring of boards is laid, which are carefully inspected the day before. The surface is laid in such a way that no cracks or gaps are formed at the joints, so that the result is a canvas similar to the floor in wooden huts. On such a flooring, workers can confidently focus on their immediate responsibilities without fear of failure. On high altitude It is safer to work if there are railings; they must be made of durable material without cracks or other defects.

Full-fledged construction sawhorses from lumber can be made with your own hands in a short time if you have the skills and a minimum set of tools, preferably with electrical system nutrition.

Features of metal scaffolding

If great desire make your own scaffolding from wood is not detected, you can purchase finished design made of metal. The costs will certainly be noticeable, but such scaffolding can be used to carry out construction work of any degree of complexity with heavy loads on the supports and flooring.

Metal scaffolding is convenient in that it can be disassembled with your own hands at the end of construction and folded into utility room and then use when conducting repair work in future.

The industry produces several types of metal structures:

• pin;
• clamp;
• frame;
• wedge

IN pin scaffolding loops in the form of pins are welded on vertical posts, and the crossbars end with hooks designed for connection. Assembly is simple and quick; it is convenient to work on such scaffolding with buildings of standard shapes; if you have to finish protrusions and figured bay windows, it is better to choose a different base.

Scaffolding with a height of no more than 40 m is made from metal pipes, which are secured with special clamps. You can do the assembly yourself; if necessary, such scaffolding can be easily moved to a new location. It is not recommended to work with very heavy loads on them, because the clamp fastenings have load restrictions.

Often metal scaffolding They are produced in the form of modules from frames, which are welded from pipes and reinforced with jibs. The design can be done using additional modules lengthen and increase in height. One section usually has a height of 2 m, a length of one and a half to 3 m, and the depth of the horizontal part is usually 1 m.

Wedge scaffolding made of metal has more difficult places connections consisting of disks with holes welded to vertical posts, and pipes with special locks reminiscent of the mouth of predators. The lock is placed on the disk, and a wedge is inserted into the through matching hole. Scaffolding can be easily assembled and disassembled with your own hands, moved wherever needed, and it is convenient to perform any work on them.

Select view scaffolding must be done carefully, taking into account the specifics of the work ahead, the load and financial opportunities. You can purchase lumber and make the structure entirely with your own hands or buy ready-made hardware, which only remains to be collected.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. Scaffolding “goats” are usually called low portable tables which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

• Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
• Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
• Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
• Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
• Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
• Railings (protect workers from falling).
• Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Scaffolding made of metal are several times more expensive than wooden ones, but have no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to do homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

• maximum height of the structure – 6 meters;
• distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

• For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
• Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
• For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

• on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
• the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
• the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
• a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
• the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
• Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

• Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
• Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
• Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
• Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
• 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

• to the assembly panel ( OSB sheet) clamps rigidly fix the scaffolding posts ( high accuracy when working with metal – a very important factor);
• horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
• adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
• having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
• the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
• Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
• the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
• holes are drilled on the posts and railings for bolted connections;
• plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
• the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
• Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in its racks it is necessary to make holes for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding - temporary or permanent system supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
2. Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is not profitable to purchase them for home use; you can only rent them for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports from edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

1. Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
2. The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
4. The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced ​​cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made from edged or unedged boards, and can also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to link greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

1. The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, do wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
5. Always install handrails with inside racks.
6. Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
7. The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
8. The pitch of the racks is from 1 to 2 m, minimum thickness flooring 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare required amount"envelopes".
3. Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
6. Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photos, videos. During construction, renovation work and maintenance of a private home, you sometimes have to work at heights. Using regular ladder It is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to build scaffolding yourself.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need are nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone’s home, and if something is missing, you can buy it the right tool it won't cost a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, and welding machine and at least basic concept how to weld seams correctly. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases scaffolding is made of wood.

Materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but production requires the use of wood High Quality and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go on the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to stack two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. They lay a board on the posts, and then stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak spots, it will crack or even break. If it survives, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen based on the structure, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that for flooring and racks, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used, and for jib boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Such boards can also be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction work oh, if you can avoid damaging it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debate about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at heights and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are cases where it has broken. But we were talking about “black” screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you're really concerned about durability, it's best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the joint without losses and quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each connection. To ensure that the wood is not damaged in the future, you can place cuttings of thin boards under the nails, and over a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you can split them and remove the nails easily.

Design features

For various types The work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, you do not need a high load bearing capacity. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration In a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick will require full-fledged scaffolding. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolding

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not fastened. They are held in place by a stop. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter “L”, but they are turned in different directions.

In the first picture, reliable and simple design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from timber. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can support a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although you wouldn’t be able to tell at first glance. But still this has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. These are attractive ones that require a minimum quantity building materials, and can be assembled/disassembled/transported in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation on required height It won’t take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, use a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffolding to the required height using it. The crossbar on top should be 0.8 to 1 meter long, and the flooring boards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the larger, the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Triangles are installed for every meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on top part triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes, at least 5*4 cm). When installing the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, additionally secured and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be secured with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. Can be used for jibs unedged board, if it exists, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow the thrust boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional stop. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby relieve part of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It needs to be made from a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, you need to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest vibrations under your feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if you are not supposed to use heavy materials. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then you will need full forests. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires sufficient quantity wood

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will prevent the structure from folding to one side, but there is a possibility that the scaffolding will fall forward without securing it. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitudes. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Construction trestles

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - make identical trestles onto which crossbars are placed at a certain pitch, which will serve as both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Flooring boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and the height will need to be changed all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction trestles are the best option.

Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This is an excellent option for painting, caulking and preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When constructing a stone house, or a building made from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures because it is more expensive. The second decisive point is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be used, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to care for a log house, for example, which means they will definitely be needed once every 2-3 years. In this plan metal structure It will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work you are going to do will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but they are not good only for

Wood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive building materials to process. Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. The production of scaffolding will consist of 5 successive stages, after completing which you will receive a structure completely ready for work. Tools required for work:

Wooden scaffolding is much cheaper to make yourself than to buy in specialized stores.

• screwdriver;
• plane;
• drill;
• wood hacksaw;
• roulette.

Preparation and selection of materials

The design of scaffolding is such that several types of wood must be used for different parts. In order to prepare the load-bearing supports, you will need a beam measuring at least 10x10 cm, otherwise you will not be able to carry out heavy work with such scaffolding. The platforms themselves are made of fairly thick boards (preferably at least 50 mm thick). The stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm in thickness. It should be remembered that the wood used must be treated by special means, protecting the material from rotting and mold. It is desirable that there are no cracks or knots in the material, then the scaffolding will last longer. For safety reasons, fencing slats can also be added to the structure.

Calculation of frame dimensions and start of collection

Scheme of wooden scaffolding.

In construction, there are restrictions on the minimum permissible width of scaffolding; it must be at least 50 cm. The recommended length of scaffolding is 3-4 m, and the safe height should not exceed 6 m, otherwise the scaffolding may tip over during operation. When selecting material for timber supports, preference should be given to solid rather than composite timber, as this will increase the strength of the future product. To increase the stability of the entire structure, it is better to make the end sides at a converging angle.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be assembled from a small amount of materials. At the beginning of the first stage, two six-meter support beams are placed on a horizontal surface. The distance between them is equal to the planned length future design. Two similar beams are laid side by side in the same way. In this case, the upper ends of the beam pair should converge slightly, i.e. if the distance between the lower ends of the pair is 3 m, then the distance between the upper ends should be 2.4 m. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. Next, the sidewalls are attached to the support beams, which will serve as support for the decking (regular self-tapping screws are used for fastening). The supports should be mounted from the inside. There will be 4 timber sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to make scaffolding higher than three “floors”. Three sidewalls will be used for flooring, and one, the bottom one, will be used to strengthen the strength.

Connection into a single structure and final installation

Next, you need to connect the side trapezoids obtained at the previous stage with side crossbars. If you nevertheless decide to assemble the scaffolding with your own hands, then in order to avoid injuries and loss of accuracy during joining, this operation should be performed by two or three people. It should be remembered that stable wooden scaffolding should be pyramidal in shape, but the toe-in angle should not be large. The side crossbars are fastened with self-tapping screws; this is justified by the fact that after the completion of construction work, the wooden scaffolding can be quite easily disassembled by unscrewing the screws and stored away.