Glazing a balcony with wooden frames with your own hands. Glazing balconies is easy to do with your own hands. How to glaze a balcony with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

To ensure that the balcony area does not remain ownerless, you can carry out some work to transform it and turn it into a small, but very functional room. Since this room is not heated, first of all it needs to be glazed and insulated.

It can be possible to do it yourself if you study in detail the instructions for carrying out this process. But when the window frames are already installed and glazed, nothing will interfere with the work on further insulation and decorative design of the room - neither rain nor wind.

Types of glazing

If you decide to renovate, you need to start by choosing the type of glazing. It can be traditional - using ordinary wooden frames or Euro-frames - aluminum, metal-plastic and wooden with the installation of double-glazed windows. In addition, glazing can be frameless, insulated and cold.

Warm and cold glazing

Glazing of balconies can be cold or warm, and both are done both when installing conventional wooden frames and more advanced ones.

  • Cold glazing includes the installation of wooden frames with ordinary glass or euro-frames - also with one hermetically installed glass. It is used if the balcony is not planned to be used year-round as a living space.
The simplest glazing is the “cold” type

A balcony made in this way should not have any special requirements for maintaining temperature. Frames can only make the room neat and protected from wind and dust, and somewhat reduce the penetration of sounds from the street.

Cold glazing does not require additional insulation measures. The only thing that can be done is to arrange for comfort wood flooring on the floor.

  • glazing is necessary if the balcony or loggia will be combined with one of the rooms. The entire room must be insulated with one or another thermal insulation materials.

With this change in layout, frames with double-glazed windows with triple glazing are installed.

  • Warm insulation requires a more serious approach.

If one of the Euro glazing options is selected, then you need to purchase frames with thermo-in rates that fit between the profile and the double-glazed window.

Double-glazed windows should have one, or better yet, two vacuum chambers - this choice will depend on the weather conditions of the region.


Further, when creating a warm room, you must remember that you cannot allow the so-called “dew point” formed indoors. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the appearance of dampness and mold due to the formation of condensation - first on the balcony, and then in the room.


It is impossible to allow the formation of a “dew point” between the glass installed on frames located outside the perimeter of the balcony. In this case, achieving the correct balance of temperature effects on windows is much more difficult, since they can be cooled not only through the glass, but also from the lower and upper end sides. Therefore, you need to carefully consider their insulation.

If wooden frames are chosen, then you will need to “conjure” by installing good insulation between them, as well as a seal between the frame and the glass.

To prevent mold stains from appearing on the balcony, it is necessary to take a number of measures to help avoid dampness:

- sealing cracks and gaps in the floor and walls of the room before insulating it;

— waterproofing of the floor and balcony parapet;

— organization of effective ventilation.

Ventilation is one of the main conditions for preventing the formation of condensation. But in order not to cool down the insulated room, it must be adjustable:


— on Euro-windows it is installed in the upper horizontal part of the profile;


- when installing wooden frames that are tightly closed for the winter, you need to build a through window into one of the upper sections of the window or wall ventilation valve, having an adjustable damper.

Prices for ventilation units

Ventilation units

Traditional wooden frames with glazing

IN last years This option for protecting the balcony from rain, wind and snow is becoming a thing of the past, but still some apartment owners prefer it due to the low cost of the material and the ability to carry out the process independently.


“Classics of the genre” - wooden frames

Such glazing will not save you from frost and will not make the balcony warmer in winter period, and also will not create effective sound insulation from external noise, but will become an obstacle to dust, wind and precipitation. In winter, a balcony protected in this way can only be used as a refrigerator.

Nevertheless, if you install double wooden frames, insulate them well, as well as the walls, floor and ceiling, and install heating devices, then in not very cold times you can use the balcony as a living room.

Glazing of wooden balcony frames is not quick, since in each of them you need to install a separate glass with a special putty, securing it with nails driven through a glazing bead. It should be noted that this process is very tedious and requires the highest accuracy.

The disadvantages of such glazing also include the difficulty of putting the glass in order, especially if double frames are installed, twisted together. In addition, wooden frames require special processing and periodic painting.

Metal-plastic windows

Euro-glazing called the installation of metal-plastic frames with double-glazed windows. This method of transforming a balcony will cost much more, but it also has much more advantages over wooden frames.


Modern approach- metal-plastic frames

Double-glazed windows installed in metal-plastic profiles can have single, double or triple glazing. The advantages of this type of glazing are:

  • Aesthetic and neat design.
  • The tightness of Euro-frames allows you to create effective heat and sound insulation, preventing precipitation, wind, dirt and dust from entering the premises. At additional insulation all walls and ceiling, the balcony becomes a full-fledged room in which you can arrange an office, workshop, greenhouse or quiet relaxation area.
  • If you know the installation process of Euro-frames, then you can install them quite quickly yourself.
  • Ease of care will allow you to tidy them up more often and quickly.
  • Frames do not require additional annual insulation and painting.
  • By installing special locks on opening sashes of windows, you will not be afraid that a child will be able to open the frame on their own.

Aluminum frames

Frames made of aluminum are currently quite popular for installation on balconies. They are used for both cold and warm glazing. In the first case, options with single or double glazing are used. But when organizing a warm room, frames with thermal inserts.


Aluminum frames can be installed on parapets, or they can be used to form a panoramic glazing structure. It should be noted that in the latter case, the thermal insulation of the balcony is reduced, since the metal has a very high thermal conductivity.

When using aluminum frames, it is recommended to leave part of the balcony closed and install glazing only in front of the parapet. This design is called a “French balcony”.

Advantages of aluminum frames:

  • This metal is very light, and at the same time has high mechanical strength.
  • Aluminum has good heat resistance, it does not burn, and is not susceptible to corrosion.
  • The service life of such structures is on average 50 ÷ 70 years.
  • The lightness of aluminum allows the use of structures made from it in conditions where heavier frames, for example, made of metal-plastic or metal-wood, cannot be used due to their greater weight. This speaks in favor of such frames for installation on balconies - no additional reinforcements are required, which will save some money.
  • Aluminum frames do not require painting and are easy to maintain.
  • The balcony, glazed with aluminum frames, receives good sound insulation.

Frameless glazing

Frameless glazing of balconies is used infrequently, as it morenew technology, but already gaining popularity. Glazing can be made from ceiling to floor or installed on a parapet.


Frameless glazing not only visually expands the space small room balcony, but also perfectly protects it from dust and external noise. It is perfect for a room where you plan to grow various plants - due to the absence of frames, they will receive sunlight in maximum volume

Frameless glazing is characterized by the following qualities:

  • For this transparent balcony fencing, tempered glass is used, which is 8 to 10 times more impact-resistant and durable than regular glass, so it can withstand very high loads.
  • So glass panels It is impossible to get hurt, since all their edges are rounded and polished in a special way.
  • Such glazing is simply operation - design it is designed in such a way that it is easy to open and close, since each of the panels slides on rollers along a metal rail.
  • Glass fencing takes up practically no space, while frames always “eat up” 50 ÷ 100 mm of area around the entire perimeter of an already small room. This is especially true for glazing installed from floor to ceiling.
  • High sound insulation – noise absorption efficiency reaches 50–70%.

Glazing with roof arrangement

The real problem is a balcony that does not have a roof. Rain and snow, dust and leaves from the trees - it all collects on this small area. Such a balcony cannot be used functionally, you cannot rest on it, leave clothes to dry, and in rainy weather you cannot even go out on it.


Therefore, the apartment owner has to solve the problem himself by installing the roof and glazing the balcony.

Roofs over a balcony in combination with glazing can be of two types:

  • A dependent roof is installed only when installing aluminum frames. It is attached to the block built from them and the wall of the house.

The advantages of this design include its reliability, ease and speed of installation at a fairly reasonable price.

The disadvantages of a dependent roof include the fact that it can only be installed over narrow balconies and loggias. When installed above wide extensions, the structure becomes unreliable and is unlikely to withstand snow loads in winter.

  • An independent roof is different in that its installation is not associated with the glazing of the balcony. An individual metal or wooden frame, That there is something that can be done roof, without even planning further glazing.

The advantage of this roof is that it can be installed over a balcony of any width, the main thing is to correctly calculate the strength of the structure. In addition, if it is not possible to install both the glazing and the roof at once, then you can install the roof first, and then the balcony frames.

Building a roof over a balcony at a height is a rather dangerous undertaking, so it is recommended to entrust this work to professional craftsmen. Moreover, you first need to make accurate calculations of the brackets and the entire frame so that the structure is not blown away by the wind one day.

Window prices

Safety precautions when working on the balcony

When planning balcony glazing, always remember the dangers of working at height. Not only do you need to protect your life or health, you must not allow threats to other people, for example, in the form of tools or construction materials falling from a height.

  • At independent execution work on insulation and glazing of a balcony requires extreme caution, especially in cases where any processes are carried out with outside. You should not take risks and fully rely on your strength and dexterity - you must definitely protect yourself with a safety belt. The belt is purchased industrial or sports, and the fastening must withstand a load of 350 ÷ 400 kg, which must be indicated in the certificate. If such information is missing, then this product is not worth purchasing.

In addition, you should definitely consult with a sales consultant who will clearly show you how to use this safety device.

  • Not worth it do work alone - you must definitely invite a partner who can, if necessary, provide backup - this should be taken into account both for work outside the balcony and when installing frames and double-glazed windows.
  • To protect your hands when working with glass and metal, you must use gloves made of durable material.

Balcony glazing stages

Unlike a loggia, where one of the sides is glazed, on a balcony frames have to be installed on three sides. The work is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to correctly align each of the structural elements and make a reliable connection at the corners. Moreover, during installation you need to take into account that only the end frames will be rigidly fixed to the wall.

The front part of the structure has maximum size and weight, therefore it also differs in windage. It must be installed extremely carefully and immediately firmly fixed not only to the balcony parapet, but also to the slab of the upper balcony (or to the canopy).

Frame blocks can be purchased at finished form or order from the company that manufactures them, indicating exact dimensions balcony You can install ready-made blocks yourself if you carefully study the instructions.

Frame installation

Before carrying out, it is necessary to glaze it. The explanation is simple - you cannot create the risk of insulation materials getting wet - they will simply lose their qualities.

The installation of frames is carried out according to the same principle, but the preparation of the base for them may vary. For example, frames can be installed on the base of a balcony, on a fence (parapet) or moved outside the perimeter.


Direct installation of frames - and with a slight offset

Preparing to install the structure on the parapet

It’s good if the balcony parapet is made of brick or concrete - in this case it will be easier to secure the frames to a fence of sufficient width. It is more difficult to resolve this issue if the parapet is made of a metal angle and rod.

In this option, it is advisable to carry out preparatory work by slightly expanding the base for the convenience of fastening the frame structures. This could be installing an additional corner with a wider shelf. One side of it is placed outward, creating a kind of fence for the lower profile of the frame. In the same way, you can secure the corners in the upper part.


The corners are screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from each other to the top of the parapet.

Metal elements must be well coated with protective paint. It will not only reduce the impact external environment, but will also give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.


Wider brackets installed to expand the base under the frame structure will also serve to secure the window sill inside the balcony.

Preparing to install frames on the base of the balcony

In this option, you need to take into account the height to which it will be raised. For example, if you plan to raise it by 100 mm, then a block of the same size is fixed around the perimeter of the balcony. It will be easier to install glazing frames on such a base.


Frames can go panoramic: from top to bottom

At the top of the balcony, metal corners, wooden blocks can be used to secure the frames, or the frames can be screwed to the ceiling using special brackets. If it will also be insulated, then it will be necessary to include it in the scheme installation of the block, which will set the thickness of the insulating layer.

Preparing the parapet base for installing frames with offset

When expanding the upper part of the balcony by moving the frames beyond its perimeter, you will have to build more complex design to install them.


Installation is usually carried out using a metal corner, from which a kind of shelf is made.


If not welding machine or welding skills, then you can build such a structure from metal profile, strengthening it with a wooden block, laying it in the cavity of the profile and securing it to the parapet and floor of the balcony.

Using only a profile, it is impossible to obtain sufficient rigidity of the structure, and if you install it only from a bar, then under the influence of the external environment the frame with thanet will be less durable.

Brackets installed outside the parapet should be made in the form of triangles - this will give the greatest rigidity to the frame.


Finished frame - bottom view

The upper, protruding part of the structure is also mounted from corners, connecting them horizontally with the visor, and vertical posts– with the lower part of the frame. It is best to additionally attach corners to the load-bearing wall of the house to the height of the entire balcony and fasten them to the structure of the protruding part - this option will give the frame maximum reliability.

If aluminum frames are used for glazing, for which it is not necessary to install a common frame, then they can be secured in the upper part using metal strips. They are screwed to the end side of the frame and to the upper balcony (to the roof).

Video: example of balcony glazing with extension

Balcony extension

If there are plans to increase the area of ​​the balcony, then its floor slab must be thoroughly strengthened so that the main load from the entire structure is removed from it. The possibility of this action must be agreed upon with specialists, as this will require an accurate engineering calculation of whether the load-bearing wall of the house will withstand the additional load.

Expansion is carried out using metal structure, which will be attached to the wall of the building with the frame extended beyond it for installation of frames. This method will help increase the area at the base of the room by 200 ÷ 300 mm in width, and the window sill in the upper part beyond the balcony - by 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Frame fastening

Frames (wooden or other) are fastened according to the same principle - using special perforated metal strips and anchor screws.


Attaching the brackets to the frame - on a wooden...

Fastening strips are screwed to the end sides of the top and bottom of the frame required length. They are often used to mount the sides of the frame. On each side you will need two to three strips for fastening.


...or metal-plastic

If necessary, wooden spacers and stands are installed between the frame and the wall to help achieve the desired position.


Often used to attach frames to the wall anchors, for which the necessary holes are drilled. In this case, it is very important to select an element of the required length, since it must enter the wall at least 50 ÷ 60 mm.


Complex knots when installing frames on balcony are the angles. To connect them and fix them together, you can use several techniques:

  • Use special corner profile, which is built in during the manufacture of frames.

  • Install on corners metal corner 80 ÷ 100 mm in size, and attach the frames to it. First, the corner must be painted with a special protective paint.
  • Attach frames to wooden block, disguised plastic panels from outside and inside after installation.
  • It is easier to solve the problem with wooden frames - they are fastened together with corners or a wooden block.

But here it should be noted that if the glazing is carried out along the entire perimeter of the room, it will not be warm, since it is impossible to create the necessary insulation at such connection angles.


After installing the frames, all gaps between the walls and frame profiles are filled with polyurethane foam. If the gaps are very wide, in order to save money, you can first install fragments of polystyrene foam in some places of the gaps, and then apply polyurethane foam.

Glazing of frames

After drying polyurethane foam and cutting off the excess, you can begin installing double-glazed windows in Euro frames or cut glass - into ordinary wooden structures.

When installing double-glazed windows into existing frames, it is very important to follow all recommendations.

Before installing a double-glazed window, special spacers must be placed in the lower inner part of the frame. pads. They are also sometimes placed on the sides and top, between the frame and the glass unit.


Lay the gaskets so that they With from the insulating glass package was distributed evenly along the entire length of the frame profile. One of the sides of the gasket should protrude slightly beyond the perimeter of the glass package. This must be done so that when the bead is driven in, cracks do not form on the glass. When driving it, the bead will select the final location of the lining, moving it to the required (but not more than) certain distance.


Next, a double-glazed window is carefully installed on top of the gaskets. For ease of installation, professionals use special suction cups. They help to easily lift a fairly heavy element and install it in the frame opening.

Having installed the double-glazed window, using wooden hammer the glazing beads are hammered in. They must fit tightly into the gap intended for them and press the glass unit against the frame.


After the installation of double-glazed windows is completed, they proceed to installing the window sill and insulating the ceiling, floor and walls.

Glazing of a wooden frame

To glaze a wooden frame, you will need small nails, wooden glazing beads, a rubber spatula, putty or sealant, drying oil and a narrow brush.

When installing glass in a wooden frame on a balcony, you may encounter one discrepancy, which is considered the rule in this work. Beads that fix glass in window opening must be nailed from the outside in order to protect the frame from moisture penetration, which is not always possible to reproduce in a balcony located above the first floor.

If the frames are small, then glazing can be done before the frame is installed on the parapet.

Provided that if wooden structure massive, pre-installed glass will make it even heavier and lifting it will not only be problematic, but also dangerous. Therefore, you will have to install the glass into the frame from the inside, and there is nothing wrong with this if this process is carried out correctly.

The first thing you need to do before installing glass is to treat all window openings in the frames with drying oil, applying it with a narrow brush. Then you need to wait until the composition penetrates into the wood and dries.

If the frames are to be painted, then the next step is to apply paint on top of the drying oil on the openings of the frames, which should also dry well.

After this, putty is applied to the folds of the opening using a rubber spatula in an even layer, 2.5 ÷ 3 mm thick. This will prevent water from getting between the glass and the frame.


Then the glass, prepared to size, is installed in the frame opening, on a soft, uncured putty, and gently presses himself against her.

Next, another layer of putty is applied to the inside of the glass, and a glazing bead is installed on it, which is nailed very carefully with nails. The nails are installed on the bead vertically or horizontally, since if they are driven in at an angle, the glass can easily be damaged.


You can do without putty by using a silicone tube in its place, which is cut On the one side along the entire length and put on the edges of the glass.

Another option for installing glass in a frame is to fix it only on putty, which is applied under the glass, and then on it in a fairly thick layer, and carefully leveled.


Sometimes they do without glazing beads - just a layer of putty

From modern materials, sealant is used to seal the gaps between the frame and glass. Many are afraid that it will stick tightly to the glass, and if necessary, it will be difficult to remove it from the opening. To prevent this from happening, the glass is smeared along the edge with a soap solution or liquid soap, and after that it is attached to the sealant and fixed with a glazing bead, which is also nailed down.

By following the recommendations and knowing some secrets, you can glaze the balcony yourself without any problems. At the same time, the biggest difficulty remains the factor of working at height - this is very important to take into account. If you have absolutely no skills in working with tools and building materials, it is recommended to entrust this process to professional craftsmen. Moreover, today some companies producing Euro-frames provide free installation when ordering their products.

Video: the work of professionals on glazing and insulating balconies

The presence of a loggia or balcony in an apartment increases its space and can be used in different ways. And the warmer the balcony, the more options for its use. The situation is similar with the loggia. If you look at high-rise buildings or private houses, the vast majority of them will have glazed balconies.

Moreover, today in the design of a balcony/loggia there is a clear trend - to use this room as a full-fledged room, separate or combined with the main apartment. And with such a task, the issue of balcony glazing becomes more relevant than ever.


Glazing of a balcony/loggia- this is a device on a balcony slab of a translucent enclosing structure made of window frames and/or glass, which performs the function of protecting the room from cold and/or bad weather.

How to glaze a balcony with your own hands?

In the general cost of glazing, the cost of installation work takes 10-15%, depending on the condition of the balcony, design features and floor.

The procedure for glazing a loggia or balcony is quite simple. Professionals spend from several hours to several days on it (determined by the degree of preparation of the balcony for installation work and its parameters).

But this is all theoretical; in practice, these are complex high-altitude installation works, which sometimes require the involvement of industrial climbers. You can glaze a balcony or loggia yourself, but it is not recommended.

Our task is to describe key parameters glazing in the form of detailed instructions, which contains step by step description all works. And this is largely not a guide to action, but introductory information for understanding what it is, what types of devices there are and what stages the process consists of.

Balcony/loggia glazing options - types and types

The approach to glazing depends on four factors:

  1. balcony design: with extension, without extension;
  2. type of balcony glazing: cold or warm;
  3. type of glazing: framed or frameless;
  4. type of glazing: classic or French (panoramic);
  5. type of material used for the manufacture of the frame (profile): PVC, aluminum, wood, fiberglass composite.

Let us consider them in detail, classifying them according to the principle of their design, design features and source material.

1. Design:

Glazing without extension

Essentially, this is standard glazing on an existing supporting frame. In this case, the glazing frame is in the same plane with the parapet of the loggia or balcony. This approach is good because the parapet takes on the main load.

Glazing of balconies with extension (with extension)

A popular option because it allows you to expand the internal area of ​​the balcony. This approach to redevelopment is indispensable for a narrow balcony or if you want to grow plants on the balcony.

When installing an external structure, it is necessary to accurately calculate the load on the frame being created and ensure its redistribution to the parapet and load-bearing slab. In addition, external glazing necessitates the construction of a canopy over the frame and a window sill.

Note. Extended glazing requires protection of the structure from external factors, therefore, the extended balcony/loggia must be sewn up from the inside.

2. Glazing type:

Cold glazing of balconies

The type has been known since Soviet times, when there were simply no other options, and the issue of insulation and energy efficiency was not so pressing. Cold glazing involved the installation of wooden frames with one, very rarely two glasses between them. Today, aluminum profiles are used for cold glazing.

The system is justified if:

  • the balcony is not intended to be used as a living space, because the temperature difference will not exceed 5-7°C;
  • If load-bearing slab in unsatisfactory condition, and its replacement is not possible;
  • if your budget is limited.

Nevertheless, cold glazing will successfully protect against bad weather, dust, wind and noise (not exceeding 10 dB).

Warm glazing of balconies

Significantly expands the scope of use of a loggia or balcony. The use of multi-chamber profiles with a thermal bridge (thermal break) for the manufacture of frames and multi-chamber double-glazed windows makes it possible to ensure high level thermal insulation. In turn, protection from external factors, cold, noise, etc., allows you to use the additional space as a separate room: an office, a bedroom or a place for training.

It should be borne in mind that warm glazing itself will not provide absolute thermal insulation and will not make the balcony as warm as a room in an apartment or house. Additionally, you will need floors, ceilings, walls and a heating device. But, taking out the battery central heating on the balcony/loggia is prohibited, you need to think about the heating system.

Warm glazing requires:

  • dew point calculation. It is important that it does not shift towards the room and does not appear as condensation on the glass. Moreover, it was not located between the glasses;
  • ensuring good moisture and parapet walls;
  • consider a system for opening the doors to ensure ventilation of the balcony.

3. Type of glazing:

Frame glazing

Allows you to securely fix the glass unit in a rigid structure. However, it does affect the degree of illumination. Many people are confused by the presence of a large number of jumpers, which make their eyes dazzle.

It is a type of glazing in which there are no frames, and the fencing functions are performed by thick tempered or laminated glass with machined edges, which eliminates the possibility of getting cut.

Frameless glazing of the balcony makes it possible to increase the amount of incoming daylight and creates the effect of no boundaries. Due to the fact that with this type of glazing there are no frames to which the sashes could be attached, Special attention is given to the opening mechanism.

In particular, sliding and folding (sliding) systems are used for frameless glazing:

Sliding glazing of balconies is a design of rail guides that allow you to move double-glazed windows to the sides (turn-slide system)

The sliding folding glazing system for balconies allows you to fold the windows like an accordion or a book (accordion).

In the first case, the doors do not require space to open; in the second, they require a so-called parking area where the doors will be assembled at the time of opening. Frameless glazing allows you to implement panoramic glazing of the balcony - an option that improves visibility.

4. Type of glazing:

  • Classic glazing involves installing a frame on an existing parapet. This method is chosen by the vast majority of users because it allows them to reduce glazing costs.
  • . It is distinguished by a significant increase in the glazing area, because with this approach the parapet is dismantled and installed from floor to ceiling.

5. Type of material used for making the frame:

PVC (polyvinyl chloride or simply plastic, metal-plastic)

Glazing of a balcony/loggia plastic windows is the sole leader in the market of warm glazing systems.

The characteristics that determined this situation include: the absence of restrictions on installation (while ensuring proper reliability and strength of the base), the ability to choose the degree of thermal insulation (vary the number of chambers in the profile), the ability to choose the number of glasses in a double-glazed window, the presence of insulation, the stability of the material is practically to all environmental factors (except ultraviolet radiation). This allows us to say that metal-plastic windows will last for decades.

In addition to the mentioned advantages, the PVC profile allows you to provide optimal level tightness, and therefore noise insulation, which is important in cities with high traffic. A significant advantage is the ability to choose the color of the profile for making the frame and the ease of maintenance of the structure.

The disadvantages are significant weight and questionable environmental performance, despite the fact that renowned manufacturers provide their products with certificates. Plastic glazing balconies/loggias are chosen for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

Note. The demand for PVC profiles for windows has led to the emergence of low quality products. You need to be extremely careful when ordering plastic windows for glazing.

Aluminum (aluminum window structures)

Glazing of balconies and loggias with aluminum profiles is chosen by those who prefer a cold glazing system. If the aluminum profile is used for warm system, it must be equipped with a thermal bridge.

Aluminum profiles are distinguished by: lightness, the ability to choose the color or structure of the wood, strength, and environmental friendliness. Widespread distribution is hampered by the high cost, which is 1.5-2 times higher compared to PVC profiles.

Wood (wooden profile for windows)

Natural and environmentally friendly glazing of the balcony with wooden frames was the only possible option 30 years ago. Today they are being replaced by other materials. But, there are users who only accept wooden balcony glazing and the market responds to demand by offering wooden windows with double-glazed windows.

Modern wooden frames are distinguished by: high quality, excellent heat and sound insulation, naturalness, and environmental safety. Thanks to new technologies, wood undergoes processing that reduces the rate of its destruction. And the tendency of wood to crack and twist is leveled by the use of laminated veneer lumber in the production High Quality. The cost of wooden Euro-windows is 2.5-3 times more expensive than metal-plastic ones.

Note. Wooden glazing conflicts with sliding systems, into which water penetrates when opened. Therefore, they are not used if there is a desire to implement sliding glazing of balconies.

Coordination of balcony/loggia glazing

Before you start ordering windows, preparing tools and consumables for installation, you need to take into account that changes to the balcony design are subject to approval. Thus, classic glazing can be implemented independently, but glazing with extension or French glazing requires the collection of documents and work.

Attention! Balcony glazing is a dangerous construction job, so it is performed by specialists. Self-implementation is highly undesirable!

If you still decide to glaze a loggia or balcony with your own hands, then you should think through safety measures in advance. In particular, it is mandatory to use a safety rope: industrial (more reliable, more durable, more expensive) or sports (lighter, cheaper, service life does not matter if there are no plans to glaze balconies on a commercial basis).

Safety rope requirements:

  • working length (halyard, direct safety rope) 2.5-3 m. A short one will create difficulties in work, and a long one will not protect against injury if it falls off the frame;
  • a carabiner that can withstand a load of 4 times the user’s weight;
  • rope fastening - by arrangement separate place fastenings To do this, a metal anchor with a ring tip is screwed into the (load-bearing) wall, to which the rope is attached. After the work is completed, the tip is cut off with a grinder.

Balcony and loggia glazing technology - installation

Due to the popularity of metal-plastic windows, we will consider the process of how to glaze a balcony/loggia with plastic windows. Note that, unlike the loggia, the work that is performed on the balcony is more complex and labor-intensive.

Work order - step-by-step instructions:

1. Dismantling old balcony glazing

If the balcony has glazing, the old windows are dismantled and assessed bearing capacity parapet and floor slabs. This will allow you to make accurate measurements for installing new frames.

2. Strengthening the balcony slab and parapet

  • The slab can be strengthened by creating a metal frame, part of which will be brought into the apartment;

  • The parapet can be strengthened by replacing it with a metal frame or a new one, lined with brick or (load-bearing, with a density of 1000-1200 kg/m3).

Note. When choosing a foam block, you should take into account that it requires the use of a special type of fastener - a chemical anchor.

3. Ordering frames and double-glazed windows

In addition to the windows, it is necessary to prepare a tool (drill, hammer, hammer drill, tape measure, level, plumb line) and Consumables(nails, dowels, polyurethane foam, sealant, frame pads: flat different heights and wedges).

Note. As a rule, window manufacturers do not trust consumer measurements and send out their own specialist.

4. Installation of a canopy over the balcony (upper ebb)

The canopy is installed before the frames are installed. It is attached with dowels to the top floor slab. The junction with the slab is filled with sealant. In the case of an external balcony, the canopy is also attached to the floor slab, which means you need to correctly calculate its width. When choosing the configuration of the canopy, care should be taken to ensure that it reliably covers the junction of the frame and the base and covers the foam. Otherwise, this unit will need to be covered with a special cover.

A borderline case of installing a canopy may be installing a roof, if we're talking about about balcony glazing top floor.

5. Glazing of a balcony with a roof

There are two ways to glaze a balcony or loggia with a roof on the top floor of a house:

  • the roof is part of the glazing structure;
  • the roof is an independent element. In this case, it is installed before the installation of window frames begins.

When designing a roof, the following requirements must be met:

  • lightness, reliability, strength;
  • ability to withstand snow loads and strong gusts of wind;
  • thermal insulation properties;
  • tightness.

To make the roof frame, it is advisable to use metal, due to the fact that the timber is subject to deformation. This uses:

  • profile pipe, welded frame;
  • profile pipe or angle, frame with screws;
  • trusses, triangles welded from a corner.

What roofing material is best to choose for a balcony roof:

  • or metal tiles. Lightweight, durable materials, protected from external influences by several layers of paint, primer and galvanization. Minus - the need for additional sound insulation;
  • bitumen shingles. Pros - you can implement a roof of any shape. Minus - flammability;
  • polycarbonate The advantage is the ability to make a transparent roof. Disadvantage - relatively short service life ( guarantee period is 10 years).

The characteristic that these roofing materials have in common is their low weight, which means low load on the load-bearing foundations.

6. Preparing the window frame

To do this, the sashes are removed, and the double-glazed windows are removed from the blind sashes. Without them, the frame will become much lighter and easier to attach. To remove a double-glazed window, it is enough to pry off the glazing bead with which it is secured with a sharp knife or spatula. Beadings must be signed to avoid confusion when installing them back.

Note. The installation of the sashes is carried out together with the double-glazed window, so there is no need to disassemble it.

7. Sealing the support profile

The stand (window sill, profile) fits quite tightly to the frame, but it can be additionally insulated. To do this you need:

  • remove the stand profile; Material prepared for the website www.site

  • glue a window seal to it; some craftsmen advise applying polyurethane foam;

  • insert the profile back into the frame.

8. Installation of windows on anchor plates

This is done when it comes to glazing a loggia. Then the entire frame is supported by anchor plates for windows, which fix it around the perimeter (except for the lower profile). But, if you are glazing a balcony, then it is inappropriate to use only anchor plates here, because they will only hold the side sashes, and the central (front) frame, which is the largest and heaviest, will be attached only to the side frames. This mounting may not be sufficient to support the frame's weight and wind load.

When glazing a balcony, and especially a balcony with an extension, the frame is fixed with a dowel through the profile. In this case, the dimensions of the gaps should not exceed 30 mm. for side posts and 20 mm. for the lower and upper frame profile.

Note. The level is set using mounting plates.

When glazing a balcony, the front (central) frame is installed first, then the side frames. To fasten the frames at the junction, a corner connecting profile is used. It is also necessary when glazing a semicircular balcony or bay window.

9. Foaming gaps with foam

All cracks and gaps around the perimeter of the frame are filled with polyurethane foam. Don't blow out too much foam, because... it can lead to deformation of the frame profile.

10. Installation of double-glazed windows in frames and installation of glazing beads

To insert the glazing bead, it must be installed in the upper and lower corners and pressed down. The fastening bead will fall into place without any problems. To ensure accuracy and tightness, it is recommended to install long beads first, then short ones.

11. Installation of opening sashes

Installation of window sashes, checking their performance and tight fit to the frame.

12. Installation of low tide outside the balcony block

The configuration of the ebb should not only ensure water drainage, but also protect the foam from external factors (sun and wind). If it is not possible to set such a bar, you can use decorative overlay and the usual window tint.

13. Installing a window sill from inside the balcony block

Independent glazing of a balcony/loggia is possible if you have experience and skills in construction. However, if you have doubts about your own abilities, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. As a rule, a window manufacturing company always offers a team of installers who perform turnkey glazing and provide a guarantee for their work. And knowing the installation procedure will help control the work of the involved specialists.

How much does it cost to glaze a balcony/loggia?

The cost of glazing depends on a number of factors:

  • type of construction;
  • house design and year of construction (glazing in a Khrushchev building will cost a little more in terms of square meter opening);
  • number of storeys of the house;
  • type of glazing: warm or cold;
  • profile type: aluminum, wood or metal-plastic;
  • number of chambers in the profile (for aluminum and PVC profiles);
  • presence of a thermal bridge (thermal break in the aluminum profile);
  • type of wood (for wooden frames);
  • type of double-glazed windows: number of chambers, type of glass, material for filling the inter-chamber space;
  • type of window opening: hinged, sliding, folding, fixed;
  • quality of fittings;
  • brand. For cost window profile or accessories that are identical in their functional purpose, is influenced by the popularity of the manufacturer and the country of origin;
  • other factors individual for a particular case.

The cost of glazing a turnkey balcony/loggia includes the following types of work:

Stage Detailing
1 Specialist visit - assessment of the condition of the balcony;
- order approval;
- adjustment of preferences taking into account real possibilities;
- taking measurements;
- calculation estimated cost and order completion times.
2 Dismantling - existing (old) glazing;
- roofing, parapet (if necessary);
- preparation of foundations for installation.
3 Removing the balcony, installing the roof and strengthening the load-bearing elements if necessary
4 Window system - production of window systems;
- transportation;
- rise to the floor.
5 Glazing installation - installation of a window block;
- frame fastening;
- sealing of junction points;
- checking the functionality of the fittings and setting them up;
- installation of a window sill;
- installation of the visor;
- low tide installation.
6 Carrying out external finishing works - external insulation;
- finishing the parapet with siding or other material.
7 Carrying out interior finishing work - installation of slopes;
- internal insulation;
- Finishing work;
- installation of electrical wiring;
- additional services: installation of a dryer, furniture, etc.
8 Garbage removal - cleaning, disposal of construction waste

Depending on the condition of the property and the budget, the number of turnkey balcony glazing services provided may vary.

Approximate cost of glazing a balcony and loggia depending on the type of profile:

Cold glazing

(Aluminum Provedal profile), swing opening type.

Window configuration Average price of glazing, rub
1.5 m x 0.75 m x 0.75 m x 1.6 m 21 400
1.5 m x 2.5 m 14 800
1.5 m x 3 m 19 200
1.5 m x 0.9 m x 0.4 m x 2.4 m (boot) 27 000
1.5 m x 0.75 m x 0.75 m x 2.7 m 23 100
1.5 m x 4 m 22 400
1.5 m x 5 m 28 000
1.5 m x 6 m 32 000
Bay window 24 100

Warm glazing

(rehau and Slidors metal-plastic profile), swing opening type.

Balcony size (length, height, depth) Window configuration Rehau Slidors Gzhel (Russia)
1.5 m x 2.5 m 22 000
1.5 m x 3 m 33 000 25 200 32 000
34 000 40 000
1.5 m x 1 m x 2.5 m 36 000 36 000 30 000
1.5 m x 4 m 38 000 29 900
41 000
1.5 m x 5 m 48 000 48 000
59 000
1.5 m x 6 m 57 000 46 600
Bay window 31 800

The cost of glazing depending on the type of opening: cold and warm sliding glazing

Cost of French balcony glazing: sliding system cold and warm type

Cost of glazing a balcony/loggia with removal:

Additional services accompanying the removal of a balcony/loggia:

Strengthening load-bearing structures

De installation work

External finishing works

Interior finishing work

Type of work Average cost, rub.
Installation of window sill, m.p. 500
Installation of wooden lining, rub. sq.m. 1 600
Installation plastic lining, rub. sq.m. 1 800
Installation of drywall with frame, rub. sq.m. 1 800
Installation of laminated panels, rub. sq.m. 1 400
Insulation with mineral wool, rub. sq.m. 100
Thermal insulation with penofol, rub. sq.m. 60
Penoplex insulation, rub. sq.m. 200
Thermal insulation with isolon, rub. sq.m. 320
Double thermal insulation (penofol and penoplex), rub. sq.m. 260
Finishing of slopes (depending on depth and material), pcs. 600-800
Electrical wiring installation, pcs. 5 000
Electrical point installation, pcs. 800
Subflooring (linoleum, carpet), rub. sq.m. 1 300
Floorboard flooring (subfloor and board), rub. sq.m. 2 000
Installation of heated floors, sq. m. 2 500
Installation of skirting boards 80

Additional services

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

The modest dimensions of most apartments force their owners to use each square as rationally as possible. The most attractive option for increasing the useful space of your home is glazing the balcony. In the process of its modernization you can get comfortable spot for summer holidays or a full-fledged living space, available all year round for comfortable use. It is quite possible to glaze a balcony yourself if you have at least basic construction skills.

Types of glazing

At the initial stage, it is worth deciding on the nature and scale of the work being carried out. Depending on the time range in which you plan to use the balcony, you can choose cold or warm option glazing of the loggia.

  1. In the cold version, the balcony can be glazed using frames with a single glass. In this case, you can create comfortable room for use in the warm season at minimal cost.
  2. With warm glazing, window frames include at least two glasses. This option also involves insulating everything for year-round use. In some cases, the balcony becomes part of an adjoining room, not even separated by a door. There is no need to clarify that glazing a balcony with such an expansion of space must be done as efficiently as possible.

By profile type

Balcony windows may differ, which serves as the frame for the entire structure. They can be:

  • Wooden. This type of glazing is the most common, affordable both in price and in complexity for doing it yourself. The main disadvantages of this type are that the frames must be periodically painted to protect them from rotting. With warm glazing, it is problematic to wipe double frames twisted together.
  • From aluminum profile. Lightweight, durable, reliable, unaffected by the external environment. Disadvantages - you can only glaze a rectangular room. With warm glazing, special thermal inserts will be required, since the aluminum profile conducts cold and heat well.
  • Plastic. The most popular type of balcony glazing at present. With high-quality insulation of the entire loggia, it allows you to create comfortable conditions there at any time of the year. Metal-plastic windows are easy to use and maintain, they have good performance durability, tightness and sound insulation. Among the disadvantages, in addition to the high cost, is the considerable weight, which will require serious calculations during the design and, if necessary, strengthening the structure of the parapet and the entire balcony as a whole.

Frameless glazing

Aluminum profiles, which play the role of a frame in this design, are practically invisible. Such frames are very convenient to use. But there are also a lot of disadvantages: very high cost, DIY installation is almost impossible due to the complexity of the work, poor thermal insulation. In addition, over time, the glass in the structure begins to rattle due to a decrease in the rigidity of the frame.

Remote glazing of a balcony can be considered a separate type, in which the usable area is increased by moving the window blocks beyond the plane of the parapet. Naturally, such glazing requires serious changes in the design of the entire balcony.

When choosing an option, you should take into account the design of the parapet: if it is made of brick or concrete, then all glazing methods are available. Simple metal fencing the balcony will have to be strengthened if installation is planned plastic double glazed windows. If the glass is from floor to ceiling, then the parapet is removed.

Do I need to get a permit?

Before you start glazing a balcony with your own hands, you need to take care of obtaining permission for this work. Installing windows on a balcony is not considered a redevelopment, but is equivalent to it. Therefore, complications after changes made to the loggia design are inevitable. At a minimum, in the absence of the necessary approvals and permits, it will not be possible to sell the apartment. Unauthorized glazing may result in a fine, after which you will have to legalize the changes made or dismantle them.

In addition, the increase total weight loggia can provoke its complete or partial collapse, which will lead to much more dire consequences. So it’s better to take care of permission and approval, as well as instructions for upgrading your balcony, in advance. This is quite long and tedious, but necessary.

Balcony glazing stages

To begin with, let’s highlight general points that will be relevant for glazing a balcony of any configuration with any type of frame:

  • The balcony is cleared of everyone extra items. All coatings are removed, including concrete, dust and dirt are removed.
  • The necessary changes are being made to the loggia design. This may involve strengthening the base with a metal frame and then leveling it with a screed. If necessary, the metal parapet is additionally reinforced with corners or wooden beams. And when glazing with metal-plastic windows - even aerated concrete blocks or brick. If an external structure is planned, then it is supported by a frame of metal triangles welded to the parapet. In any case, you should take into account the loads that the loggia will experience after the changes are made, including wind influences.
  • Window frames are carefully measured. If the frames are made to order with or frameless glazing, then all necessary calculations produced by the manufacturer's measurers. You can only make wooden frames for cold glazing yourself or limit yourself to buying ready-made ones.

All work on leveling the surface must be carried out before installing the frames. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to produce them, and there is a chance of damaging the windows during operation.

It is better to postpone insulation and final finishing until the moment when the balcony is glazed. Delivery and installation of frames may take a certain period of time. Moisture that gets onto the balcony at this time will ruin interior decoration and will worsen the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing wooden windows

Since wooden windows are most often installed from start to finish with your own hands, we offer you instructions for glazing a balcony using a wooden frame.

A couple of years ago I decided to glaze my balcony. I wanted to give it a cozy look, put a chair, coffee table. But without glazing this was impossible. I decided right away that I would carry out all the installation work myself, because I have little experience, and glazing a balcony with my own hands is a labor-intensive process, but quite realistic.
Just a couple of decades ago, all apartments had only wooden windows, but nowadays in the modern world there are several options for glazing residential premises. They have different characteristics, composition, and each has its own pricing policy. Therefore, everyone can choose the most suitable option.

DIY balcony glazing

Choosing material

Since I wanted to give my balcony a cozy feel, the main task for me was thermal insulation. Therefore, I immediately chose the “warm” glazing option. But I’ll write more precisely about each one.

So, there are three types of glazing for balconies:

  1. Cold - does not retain heat in the room, used for glazing balconies where maintaining room temperature is not required
  2. Warm – maintains room temperature at any time of the year, does not allow cold to pass through. It differs from the cold look in the set of materials used and their characteristics.
  3. French - the balcony is glazed along the entire perimeter and height. High-strength and tinted glass is used

French glazing of the balcony using transparent mirror windows.

All that remained was to choose the glazing option for your balcony.
The most popular option today is glazing with PVC windows, but there are also:

  • Aluminum profile
  • Wooden windows

Aluminum profile glazing refers to cold balconies

The option of glazing with an aluminum profile immediately became impossible for me. This type of glazing refers to cold balconies. The material is not thermal insulating - it is used on those balconies that do not need to maintain room temperature. The aluminum profile serves to protect the room from wind, rain and snow.
However, this form also has its advantages:

  • Low weight of materials used
  • Low cost
  • Parallel sliding sashes

Balcony glazing - wooden frames

Wooden windows are made from two types of materials. If homogeneous wood is used, then the cost of windows is relatively low. If the material is laminated veneer lumber, then the price automatically increases and is already on average 60-80% higher than the cost of similar PVC windows.
For me the option is wooden windows didn't fit because of the price. Even though it's beautiful, it's still financial side I was no less interested in the question. My choice settled on PVC windows. Good price/quality ratio, warmth and sound insulation properties have brought this material to the forefront in demand.

Siding

In addition to glazing the balcony, I was interested in the option of external cladding of the balcony. And for this I chose siding. This material is the most optimal, it is durable, consists of PVC and is not afraid of sunlight and precipitation. In addition, it enhances thermal insulation on the balcony. The siding has a wide range of colors, and the manufacturer claims a service life of no less than 50 years.

DIY balcony siding

Advice! For those who decide to carry out all the work on glazing the balcony themselves, you need to know that it is better to complete the outer cladding of the balcony before glazing. This will save time and money. After all, after glazing the balcony, it is not so convenient to carry out external cladding, and calling craftsmen who will do all the work with the help of climbing equipment will cost a lot of money.

It is quite possible to do siding work yourself, but only if you are confident in your abilities and have skills in such work.
Otherwise, it is better to entrust all work on covering balconies with siding in apartments to qualified specialists who have professional equipment.

Finishing the balcony with siding

I have described the sheathing instructions below:

  • First you need to build fastening belts from wooden beams - upper and lower. In the future, siding will be attached to them
  • We attach the beams to the wall using liquid nails. They are connected to each other using iron corners
  • Let's start installing the siding - you should start from the sides. We do not overtighten the screws; they should be left in the middle of the hole.
  • Upon completion of the siding installation, we hide all the screw heads using platbands

Balcony siding

Balcony glazing

After all the work has been completed external cladding balcony were completed, I proceeded directly to glazing my balcony.
Next, I will write step-by-step instructions with which everyone can try to glaze a balcony with their own hands.

Advice! Start the glazing by installing the canopy - then you won’t have to guess where to attach this canopy so that it doesn’t fall off with the first strong wind. It will be enough to screw it to the ceiling using dowel nails.

Glazing of balconies with plastic windows

  1. Before purchasing windows, you need to find out what size they are needed. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the length of the parapet to the ceiling and from wall to wall. You need to know if there is a distortion on the parapet - a level will help with this. By the way, many companies selling glazing send their own specialist who takes his measurements. This is very convenient and minimizes the possibility of incorrect calculations. I took the measurements myself, leaving a gap of 1.5-2 cm in both directions; for those who are not sure that the diagonals are even, you can leave about 1.5-3 cm. In any case, it will all be blown away with foam.
  2. Next, we remove the double-glazed windows from the windows; this is not required for opening sashes. There are a couple of reasons for this action - firstly, together with double-glazed windows, the windows are very heavy, and secondly, there is a possibility of damaging the glass during installation.
  3. Afterwards we fix the stand profile. Turn the frame over and insert the profile into the grooves. Then we turn the frame back over. Doing everything will be convenient and simple; the frame without glass is very light.
  4. We set the fastenings for the frame at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. We hammer the fixing plate into the grooves with a hammer, then turn it 90 degrees to secure it to concrete wall.
  5. The next step is to install the frame in the opening. A friend helped me with this. Using a level, we leveled the frame and secured it in the opening with self-tapping screws. There is no need to drive them in - you just need to screw them in.
  6. Afterwards, all frames are inserted according to the same principle, using a level and self-tapping screws.
  7. Once all the frames were in place, I secured them to the parapet, ceiling and walls using anchors. I deepened them by about 60 mm.
  8. All that remains is to cover all the cracks. For this, polyurethane foam is used.
  9. That's all there is left - we insert the double-glazed window into the frame and return the flaps to their place. It is enough to hang them back on the hinges and check the functionality of all mechanisms.

Installation of low tide and window sill on the balcony

Finally, I installed a drip sill on the outside of the balcony and installed a window sill on the inside.
Although I spent quite a lot of time completing all the work, and then cleaning the entire room from construction dirt, I was satisfied. Self-glazing of the balcony allows you to save a decent amount of money. In addition, I gained valuable experience and new skills in construction work, and outer skin balcony siding is doubly pleasing. Now the balcony looks perfect from the outside and this is due not only to the siding manufacturer, but also to me.


Technologies and types of exterior cladding for balconies

Greetings! I remembered one funny incident. I was visiting an old friend - we were remembering our childhood and our pranks.

And then, with obscene screams, he ran to the balcony and began to drive out a flock of pigeons, which had already made half a nest for themselves.

He said that they make such attempts every day.

Out of old friendship, I decided to help a friend and told me how to glaze a balcony with my own hands so that this space would be protected from attacks by birds.

Many apartment owners strive to expand their usable living space using all the resources they have.

One of these methods of expanding the territory is glazing and insulating balconies and loggias.

Thus, it becomes possible not only to get another room suitable for habitation, but also to significantly improve the thermal insulation of those rooms that face balconies or loggias.

Nowadays, a loggia is no longer just a place for storing unnecessary things and drying washed clothes - it is a place where you can arrange a study, a winter garden or a relaxation room. In order to ensure appropriate temperature conditions and avoid unnecessary heat loss, glazing and insulation of the balcony will be required.

A team of specialists can be invited to carry out all the necessary work.

It’s not for nothing that they say: “If you want to do something well, do it yourself.”

Let's look at how to properly glaze a balcony and insulate it with your own hands. This does not require special construction skills - just accuracy, hard work and ingenuity.

What you need to know about glazing

To begin with, you should know that glazing loggias alone is not enough if we want to ensure acceptable temperature comfort there. Therefore, insulation work is required - otherwise heat will escape through uninsulated floors.

To insulate a loggia with your own hands, they use materials such as expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and foamed polyethylene - penofol. These are new generation materials - they are widely used in modern construction for insulation of various sections of buildings. Their choice depends on the tasks, application conditions and, of course, the financial budget.

Expanded polystyrene (or penoplex) is a material consisting of air and foamed polystyrene. Many people confuse this white substance of granules tightly adhered to each other with polystyrene foam. But due to different manufacturing technologies, polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene have different properties.

Expanded polystyrene has stronger intermolecular bonds and its performance characteristics much higher than that of polystyrene foam. Let's look at them in more detail:

  • High thermal insulation and sound insulation properties;
  • Non-absorbency of moisture;
  • Moisture resistance - it does not lose its properties under the influence of moisture;
  • Resistance to rotting, molding, and fungi formation;
  • Resistance to temperature changes;
  • Non-toxic - it does not emit substances harmful to the human body;
  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Small specific gravity, which facilitates its installation and reduces the load on structures;
  • Good machinability using the most common tools;
  • Affordable price.

This material is widely used for do-it-yourself thermal insulation of loggias - it is convenient, lightweight and easy to work with.

Mineral wool is more expensive than penoplex, has a much larger mass and is undesirable to use for thermal insulation of loggias. In addition, high permeability mineral wool forces the mandatory use of waterproofing and vapor barriers.

Penofol is an insulation material that consists of a foil layer and polyethylene foam. This material is heat-resistant, moisture-resistant and is often used to insulate loggias with your own hands. It can be used as an independent heat insulator or in combination with expanded polystyrene or mineral wool.

Glazing and insulation of a balcony - general concepts

When planning how to glaze a balcony and insulate it yourself, you should consider that the whole process generally looks like this:

  1. preparation of balconies and loggias for glazing;
  2. glazing;
  3. sealing cracks;
  4. thermal insulation;
  5. finishing.

First, let's consider the simplest option - insulating a balcony with facade glazing. It happens that glazing was previously carried out on non-insulated aluminum structures and it is necessary to perform thermal insulation in order to avoid heat loss.

There are three options to solve the problem:

  • Installation of PVC double-glazed windows parallel to existing windows. This makes sense if it is important to preserve the original appearance of the facade of the house from the street;
  • Installation of a thermal bridge for insulation of aluminum profiles. We increase thermal insulation by placing insulation inserts between the inside and outside of the frame. This compacts it and reduces heat loss;
  • Removal of old glazing and installation of PVC double-glazed windows.

Note!

Now let's look step by step at how to glaze a balcony if we have a structure in the form of thin concrete slabs on the sides and a lattice parapet in front.

We lay walls from foam blocks or ceramic bricks. This masonry does not require construction skills and almost anyone can lay it themselves;

After we have prepared the walls, we install PVC double-glazed windows. We seal all cracks tightly using polyurethane foam. After this, we can begin insulating and finishing the walls, floor and ceiling;

We prepare the floor. Standard loggias have a barely noticeable slope towards the street for rainwater drainage - it needs to be leveled using a thin concrete screed with the addition of expanded clay. After the screed has dried, we apply waterproofing in the form of dense polyethylene, gluing it at the joints with tape.

We place wooden blocks measuring 40 mm x 40 mm on polyethylene parallel to each other and fix them at a distance of 0.5 m and place polystyrene foam slabs between them. We fill the gaps between them with foam. We place the bars again on top perpendicular to the laid bars and fasten them. We install a floor on them made of boards or thick plywood, which we cover with laminate on top;

If possible, do-it-yourself thermal insulation of walls should be done from the outside. Then the dew point will be outside the room and we will be free from droplets of moisture on the walls.

We glue polystyrene foam boards using bitumen mastic on the wall from the outside, fix it with plastic dowels and apply a reinforcing mesh to hold the finishing plaster in place. But in multi-storey buildings Often it is not possible to lay out a thermal layer on the outside of the wall yourself. In this case, we thermally insulate the walls of balconies and loggias from the inside.

We attach penofol to the cleaned wall as waterproofing. We glue all joints with adhesive aluminum tape. We place expanded polystyrene slabs on top of the penofol on the adhesive solution and additionally fix them with plastic dowels with large caps. If the climatic conditions are harsh, we lay polystyrene foam in two layers.

Spread glue on top, apply a reinforcing mesh and roll it into the glue with a construction roller. After the glue has dried, we finish decorative plaster and finishing coat. If we plan to decorate the walls with clapboard, then we attach a lathing to the wall on which we mount finishing coat from lining or plasterboard;

We carry out insulation of the ceiling in a similar way. We attach waterproofing to the ceiling, and attach foam boards to it using glue and plastic dowels. We put a reinforcing mesh on top, roll it up in a layer of glue and either plaster it on top or attach a suspended ceiling.

After thermal insulation, the space should be equipped with a heat source. It should be borne in mind that safety standards do not allow the use of central heating systems here.

Glazing with panoramic glass

Increasingly popular in Lately The equipment uses panoramic glass. It differs from the usual one in that it has no frames.

The advantages of this method are as follows:

  1. More aesthetic appearance;
  2. Better lighting;
  3. The space visually expands;
  4. Improved visibility.

However, it should be taken into account that the equipment with panoramic glass does not provide for the presence of vents and opening windows. Therefore, space equipment is necessary additional system ventilation.

It should also be taken into account that options with PVC panoramic glazing are not suitable for use in winter - the heat loss is too great. Aluminum structures are more suitable for use in winter.

This type of glazing is considered quite complex and not everyone can take it on. But it is completely doable with your own hands. The main thing is to do robust construction for the installation of glass, which would withstand gusts of wind and significant loads under the weight of the glass.

Helpful advice!

We use tempered glass with a thickness of at least 8 mm. We distribute the load between the upper and lower edges of the profile. We take into account that it is not the glass itself that is subject to load, but the structure that holds it.

We use polymer thermal insulation between the sashes. In order not to disturb the aesthetic appearance and integrity of perception, it must be transparent.

Conclusion

Glazing and insulation of loggias has become very popular among apartment owners today. This is not surprising - in this way you can significantly expand usable area housing by arranging an additional room.

Using new generation heat-insulating materials and modern technologies, it is quite possible to do all the work yourself, thus saving a significant part of the financial budget.

By equipping the insulated and glazed space with a heating system, we get another room and significantly reduce heat loss in the rooms adjacent to the balcony or loggia.
source: http://mynovostroika.ru/osteklenie_i_uteplenie_balkona_i_lodzhii

Glazing balconies and loggias yourself

The functions of a balcony can be very multifaceted. For some, it serves as a storage area for rarely used items, while others turn it into a multifunctional room. In order to make good use of the balcony area and turn it into a comfortable room, first it must be glazed and insulated. There are many options for usefully renovating a balcony; you just need to decide what we are turning it into.

It is possible to glaze a balcony with your own hands, but you should not neglect a detailed study of all the intricacies of this process. The most important thing is the reliable installation and glazing of window frames, the correct material and successful insulation.

Having started planning a balcony, you should decide what function it should perform. The price and complexity of the building depend on this decision. To turn a balcony into a full-fledged room, you will have to spend money not only by ordering double-glazed windows and special frames, but also take care of insulation around the entire perimeter.

Main types of glazing for balconies

So, glazing can be: cold, warm and frameless. The first type includes wooden structures or Euro-frames with one glass. Between the windows you will need powerful insulation, and the glass is reinforced with a high-quality seal.

This cover will protect the room from wind and dirt and will allow you to use the balcony as a refrigerator in the cold season.

The warm option is more demanding in terms of arrangement, since it is necessary to insulate the room inside and outside. Frames must be ordered with thermal inserts, and the more double-glazed windows, the better the heat is retained in the room.

A dangerous point when maintaining heat is the formation of condensation on the glass, which contributes to the appearance of mold. Be sure to take care of controlled ventilation, it provides protection against condensation.

Wood, aluminum or plastic - choice of materials

To understand how to glaze a loggia or balcony, you need to know what types of profiles exist. Recently, few people prefer to use wooden frames for construction.

The undeniable advantage here is the naturalness of a completely affordable and budget material. However, wooden frames allow the cold to pass through and are not practical to maintain. In addition, wood is not characterized by better resistance to temperature changes and interaction with moisture.

It should be noted that the process is quite lengthy, and the work is still scrupulous.

When choosing how to glaze a balcony, most people today decide to use metal-plastic frames, which are much more convenient not only to use, but also to maintain.

The cost of such a building is much more expensive, but they also have many times more advantages:

  • modern design;
  • — effective heat and sound insulation;
  • — fast and simple installation process;
  • — complete tightness prevents the penetration of dirt;
  • — the ability to install locks makes them safe for small children.

Advantages of aluminum frames:

— despite the light weight of the metal, it is quite durable;

- heat-resistant material that does not burn and does not react with air and water;

— long service life;

- does not require painting;

— easy to deliver and convenient to install;

- promotes sound insulation.

How to make a balcony comfortable

Since you will have to spend money to implement what you planned, the decision will be quite clear - to make a balcony with your own hands, or to take on at least part of the work. For example, the first stage of a long process is calculation and measurement.

It should be noted that this is not an easy task, and it requires maximum precision and care. If you doubt your capabilities, it is better to entrust this work to specialists. You can make approximate calculations for yourself, which will give you an idea of ​​the cost of materials.

The easiest way to measure a balcony is one that has easy access to the wall and parapet. Experience shows that even new designs allow slab discrepancies of up to 10 cm. Therefore, measurements should be taken at least in three different places, relying on the average result.

The glass height measurement is the distance from the edge of the railing to top point every linear meter, the length is the width of the railing. It is necessary to determine the smallest distance by subtracting 6 cm from it to plastic construction, and 4cm for aluminum. We leave this gap for filling with polyurethane foam.

If the balcony is already glazed, in order to take accurate measurements, it must be completely disassembled. You should not risk inaccurate measurements; a large load on the balcony can lead to the collapse of the entire structure.

For reliable operation, the installation must be strong and durable. In order not to get confused in the calculations, it is recommended to draw an approximate sketch and write down all measurements in accordance with the drawing.

At the second stage, preparatory work for glazing will take place. First, make sure that the balcony parapet is strong. Even minor cracks should be sealed using conventional galvanization. If the old parapet seems unreliable, it is necessary to replace it by laying a new one made of brick.

It is very important to make an accurate horizontal level so that the mass of the structure is evenly distributed over the entire area. Now you need to build and secure the metal frame for the frames. Attach it around the perimeter using self-tapping screws and dowels.

The last and most difficult stage is directly glazing the balcony with your own hands. To make the task easier, remove the double-glazed windows from metal-plastic structures, leaving the frames empty. Gently pull the bar to remove the glass unit. On movable windows, you should remove the sash from the frame: tilt the sash, then lift it a few cm and remove it from its hinges.

Now you should attach the support stand profile to the frame. It is necessary to turn the frame over, insert the profile into the grooves and secure it with a mallet. So, it’s time to install the frame fastening: leave 15cm from the edge and use a hammer to hammer the plates into the grooves. The part that protrudes should be turned perpendicular to the structure.

For the next stage, it is advisable to find an assistant to lift and secure the frames in the opening. Pre-prepare a drill, drill (length - 30mm, diameter - 6mm) and self-tapping screws. Having leveled the level, install the frame to the concrete wall and secure it with clamps, screwing in the screws.

Connect the frames together, checking the horizontal and vertical levels. Then, attach the frames to the balcony building structures using anchors. After that, you should fill the gaps with polyurethane foam and attach the visor.

Note!

In order to finally glaze the balcony, carefully install the double-glazed windows back into the frames. All that remains is to hang the tilt and turn sashes on their hinges and mount the tilting mechanism on the frames and sashes.

After completion, check the tightness of the double-glazed window with the frame and the mechanism of operation of the fittings. Last step– installation of a window sill and supply of drainage.
source: https://perfect-okna.com.ua/ru/statti/iak-zaskliti-balkon/

How to glaze a balcony and insulate it yourself

To ensure that the balcony area does not remain ownerless, you can carry out some work to transform it and turn it into a small but very functional room. Since this room is not heated, first of all it needs to be glazed and insulated.

Glazing a balcony with your own hands can be possible if you study the instructions for this process in detail. But when the window frames are already installed and glazed, nothing will interfere with the work on further insulation and decorative design of the room - neither rain nor wind.

Types of glazing

If you decide to renovate, you need to start by choosing the type of glazing. It can be traditional - using ordinary wooden frames or Euro-frames - aluminum, metal-plastic and wooden with the installation of double-glazed windows. In addition, glazing can be frameless, insulated and cold.

Warm and cold glazing

Glazing of balconies can be cold or warm, and both are done both when installing conventional wooden frames and more advanced ones.

Cold glazing includes the installation of wooden frames with ordinary glass or Euro-frames - also with one hermetically installed glass. It is used if the balcony is not planned to be used year-round as a living space.

A balcony made in this way should not have any special requirements for maintaining temperature. Frames can only make the room neat and protected from wind and dust, and somewhat reduce the penetration of sounds from the street.

Cold glazing does not require additional insulation measures. The only thing that can be done is to install wooden flooring on the floor for comfort.

An insulated glazing option is necessary if the balcony or loggia will be combined with one of the rooms. The entire room must be insulated with one or another thermal insulation materials.

With this change in layout, frames with double-glazed windows with triple glazing are installed.

Warm insulation requires a more serious approach.

If you choose one of the Euro glazing options, then you need to purchase frames with thermal inserts that fit between the profile and the glass unit.

Double-glazed windows should have one, or better yet, two vacuum chambers - this choice will depend on the weather conditions of the region.

Further, when creating a warm room, you must remember that you cannot allow the so-called “dew point” to form inside the room. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the appearance of dampness and mold due to the formation of condensation - first on the balcony, and then in the room.

It is impossible to allow the formation of a “dew point” between the glasses installed on frames located outside the perimeter of the balcony. In this case, achieving the correct balance of temperature effects on windows is much more difficult, since they can be cooled not only through the glass, but also from the lower and upper end sides.

Therefore, you need to carefully consider their insulation.

If wooden frames are chosen, then you will need to “conjure” by installing good insulation between them, as well as a seal between the frame and the glass.

To prevent mold stains from appearing on the balcony, it is necessary to take a number of measures to help avoid dampness:

  1. - sealing cracks and gaps in the floor and walls of the room before insulating it;
  2. - waterproofing the floor and balcony parapet;
  3. - organization of effective ventilation.

Helpful advice!

A ventilation device is one of the main conditions for preventing the formation of condensation.

But in order not to cool down the insulated room, ventilation must be adjustable:

On Euro-windows it is installed in the upper horizontal part of the profile;

When installing wooden frames that are tightly closed for the winter, you need to build a through ventilation valve with an adjustable damper into one of the upper sections of the window or wall.

Traditional wooden frames with glazing

In recent years, this option for protecting the balcony from rain, wind and snow has become a thing of the past, but still some apartment owners prefer it due to the low cost of the material and the ability to carry out the process themselves.

Such glazing will not save you from frost and will not make the balcony warmer in winter, and will not create effective sound insulation from external noise, but will become an obstacle to dust, wind and precipitation. In winter, a balcony protected in this way can only be used as a refrigerator.

However, if you install double wooden frames, insulate them well, as well as the walls, floor and ceiling, and install heating devices, then in not very cold times you can use the balcony as a living room.

Glazing of wooden balcony frames is not quick, since in each of them you need to install a separate glass with a special putty, securing it with nails driven through a glazing bead. It should be noted that this process is very tedious and requires the highest accuracy.

The disadvantages of such glazing also include the difficulty of putting the glass in order, especially if double frames are installed, twisted together. In addition, wooden frames require special treatment with antiseptic compounds and periodic painting.

Metal-plastic windows

Euro-glazing refers to the installation of metal-plastic frames with double-glazed windows. This method of transforming a balcony will cost much more, but it also has much more advantages over wooden frames.

Double-glazed windows installed in metal-plastic profiles can have single, double or triple glazing.

The advantages of this type of glazing are:

  • Aesthetic and neat design.
  • The tightness of Euro-frames allows you to create effective heat and sound insulation, preventing precipitation, wind, dirt and dust from entering the premises. With additional insulation of all walls, floor and ceiling, the balcony becomes a full-fledged room in which you can arrange an office, workshop, greenhouse or quiet relaxation area.

If you know the installation process of Euro-frames, you can install them quite quickly yourself.

Ease of care will allow you to tidy them up more often and quickly.
Frames do not require additional annual insulation and painting.

By installing special locks on opening sashes of windows, you will not be afraid that a child will be able to open the frame on their own.

Aluminum frames

Frames made of aluminum are currently quite popular for installation on balconies. They are used for both cold and warm glazing. In the first case, options with single or double glazing are used. But when organizing a warm room, frames with thermal inserts are used.

Aluminum frames can be installed on parapets, or they can be used to form a panoramic glazing structure. It should be noted that in the latter case, the thermal insulation of the balcony is reduced, since the metal has a very high thermal conductivity.

Advantages of aluminum frames:

  1. This metal is very light, and at the same time has high mechanical strength.
  2. Aluminum has good heat resistance, it does not burn, and is not susceptible to corrosion.
  3. The service life of such structures is on average 50 ÷ 70 years.
  4. The lightness of aluminum allows the use of structures made from it in conditions where heavier frames, for example, made of metal-plastic or metal-wood, cannot be used due to their greater weight. This speaks in favor of such frames for installation on balconies - no additional reinforcements are required, which will save some money.
  5. Aluminum frames do not require painting and are easy to maintain.
  6. The balcony, glazed with aluminum frames, receives good sound insulation.

Frameless glazing

Frameless glazing of balconies is used infrequently, since it is still a new technology, but already gaining popularity. Glazing can be made from ceiling to floor or installed on a parapet.

Frameless glazing not only visually expands the space of a small balcony room, but also perfectly protects it from dust and external noise. It is perfect for a room where you plan to grow various plants - due to the absence of frames, they will receive plenty of sunlight.

Frameless glazing is characterized by the following qualities:

  • For this transparent balcony fencing, tempered glass is used, which is 8 to 10 times more impact-resistant and durable than regular glass, so it can withstand very high loads.
  • It is impossible to get hurt with such glass panels, since all their edges are rounded and polished in a special way.
  • This glazing is easy to use - the design is designed in such a way that it is easy to open and close, since each of the panels slides on rollers along a metal rail.
  • Glass fencing takes up practically no space, while frames always “eat up” 50 ÷ 100 mm of area around the entire perimeter of an already small room. This is especially true for glazing installed from floor to ceiling.
  • High sound insulation – noise absorption efficiency reaches 50–70%.

Glazing with roof arrangement

The real problem is a balcony that does not have a roof. Rain and snow, dust and leaves from trees - it all collects in this small area. Such a balcony cannot be used functionally; you cannot rest on it, leave clothes to dry, and in rainy weather you cannot even go out on it.

Therefore, the apartment owner has to solve the problem himself by installing the roof and glazing the balcony.

Roofs over a balcony in combination with glazing can be of two types:

A dependent roof is installed only when installing aluminum frames. It is attached to the block built from them and the wall of the house.

The advantages of this design include its reliability, ease and speed of installation at a fairly reasonable price.

The disadvantages of a dependent roof include the fact that it can only be installed over narrow balconies and loggias. When installed above wide extensions, the structure becomes unreliable and is unlikely to withstand snow loads in winter.

An independent roof is different in that its installation is not associated with the glazing of the balcony. An individual metal or wooden frame is made, that is, you can make a roof without even planning further glazing.

The advantage of this roof is that it can be installed over a balcony of any width, the main thing is to correctly calculate the strength of the structure. In addition, if it is not possible to install both the glazing and the roof at once, then you can install the roof first, and then the balcony frames.

Building a roof over a balcony at a height is a rather dangerous undertaking, so it is recommended to entrust this work to professional craftsmen. Moreover, you first need to make accurate calculations of the brackets and the entire frame so that the structure is not blown away by the wind one day.

Safety precautions when working on the balcony

When planning balcony glazing, always remember the dangers of working at height. Not only do you need to protect your life or health, you must not allow threats to other people, for example, in the form of tools or construction materials falling from a height.

Note!

When carrying out work on insulating and glazing a balcony yourself, extreme caution is required, especially in cases where any processes are carried out from the outside.

You should not take risks and rely entirely on your strength and dexterity - you must definitely protect yourself with the help of a safety belt. The belt is purchased for industrial or sports purposes, and the fastening must withstand a load of 350 ÷ 400 kg, which must be indicated in the certificate. If such information is missing, then this product is not worth purchasing.

In addition, you should definitely consult with a sales consultant who will clearly show you how to use this safety device.

You should not carry out the work alone - you must definitely invite a partner who can, if necessary, provide backup - this should be taken into account for work outside the balcony, and when installing frames and double-glazed windows.

To protect your hands when working with glass and metal, you must use gloves made of durable material.

Glazing stages

Unlike a loggia, where one of the sides is glazed, on a balcony frames have to be installed on three sides. The work is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to correctly align each of the structural elements and make a reliable connection at the corners.

Moreover, during installation it is necessary to take into account that only the end frames will be rigidly fixed to the wall.

The front part of the structure has the maximum size and weight, therefore it also differs in windage. It must be installed extremely carefully and immediately firmly fixed not only to the balcony parapet, but also to the slab of the upper balcony (or to the canopy).

Frame blocks can be purchased ready-made or ordered from the company that manufactures them, indicating the exact dimensions of the balcony. You can install ready-made blocks yourself if you carefully study the instructions.

Frame installation

Before insulating the balcony, it is necessary to glaze it. The explanation is simple - you cannot create the risk of insulation materials getting wet - they will simply lose their qualities.

The installation of frames is carried out according to the same principle, but the preparation of the base for them may vary. For example, frames can be installed on the base of a balcony, on a fence (parapet) or moved outside the perimeter.

Preparing to install the structure on the parapet

It’s good if the balcony parapet is made of brick or concrete - in this case it will be easier to secure the frames to a fence of sufficient width. It is more difficult to resolve this issue if the parapet is made of a metal angle and rod.

In this option, it is advisable to carry out preparatory work by slightly expanding the base for the convenience of fastening the frame structures. This could be installing an additional corner with a wider shelf. One side of it is placed outward, creating a kind of fence for the lower profile of the frame. In the same way, you can secure the corners in the upper part.

The corners are screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from each other to the top of the parapet.

Helpful advice!

Metal elements must be well coated with protective paint. It will not only reduce the influence of the external environment, but also give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

Wider brackets installed to expand the base under the frame structure will also serve to secure the window sill inside the balcony.

Preparing to install frames on the base of the balcony

In this option, you need to take into account the height to which the insulated floor will be raised. For example, if you plan to raise it by 100 mm, then a block of the same size is fixed around the perimeter of the balcony. It will be easier to install glazing frames on such a base.

At the top of the balcony, metal corners, wooden blocks can be used to secure the frames, or the frames can be screwed to the ceiling using special brackets.

If the ceiling is also insulated, then it will be necessary to include a block in the installation scheme, which will set the thickness of the insulating layer.

Preparing the parapet base for installing frames with offset

When expanding the upper part of the balcony by moving the frames beyond its perimeter, you will have to build a more complex structure for their installation.

Installation is usually carried out using a metal corner, from which a kind of shelf is made.

If you don’t have a welding machine or welding skills, then you can build such a structure from a metal profile, strengthening it with a wooden block, placing it in the cavity of the profile and securing it to the parapet and floor of the balcony.

Using only a profile, it is impossible to obtain sufficient rigidity of the structure, and if you install it only from a bar, then under the influence of the external environment the frame will become less durable.

Brackets installed outside the parapet should be made in the form of triangles - this will give the greatest rigidity to the frame.

The upper, protruding part of the structure is also mounted from corners, connecting them horizontally with the canopy, and with vertical posts - with the lower part of the frame. It is best to additionally fasten corners to the load-bearing wall of the house to the height of the entire balcony and fasten them to the structure of the protruding part - this option will give the frame maximum reliability.

If aluminum frames are used for glazing, for which it is not necessary to install a common frame, then they can be secured in the upper part using metal strips. And x is screwed to the end side of the frame and to the upper balcony (to the roof).

Balcony extension

If there are plans to increase the area of ​​the balcony, then its floor slab must be thoroughly strengthened so that the main load from the entire structure is removed from it. The possibility of this action must be agreed upon with specialists, as this will require an accurate engineering calculation of whether the load-bearing wall of the house will withstand the additional load.

The expansion is carried out using a metal structure, which will be attached to the wall of the building with the frame moved beyond it for installation of frames. This method will help increase the area at the base of the room by 200 ÷ 300 mm in width, and the window sill in the upper part beyond the balcony by 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Frame fastening

Frames (wooden or other) are fastened according to the same principle - using special perforated metal strips and anchor screws.

Fastening strips of the required length are screwed to the end sides of the top and bottom of the frame. They are often used to mount the sides of the frame. On each side you will need two to three strips for fastening.

If necessary, wooden spacers and stands are installed between the frame and the wall to help achieve the desired position.

Often, to attach frames to the wall, anchors are used, for which required holes. In this case, it is very important to select an element of the required length, since it must enter the wall at least 50 ÷ 60 mm.

The most difficult parts when installing frames on a balcony are the corners. To connect them and fix them together, you can use several techniques:

Use a special corner profile, which is built in during the manufacture of frames.

Install a metal corner measuring 80 ÷ 100 mm at the corners and secure the frames to it. First, the corner must be painted with a special protective paint.

Attach the frames to a wooden block, masked with plastic panels on the outside and inside after installation.

It is easier to solve the problem with wooden frames - they are fastened together with corners or a wooden block.

After installing the frames, all gaps between the walls and frame profiles are filled with polyurethane foam. If the gaps are very wide, in order to save money, you can first install fragments of polystyrene foam in some places of the gaps, and then apply polyurethane foam.

Glazing of frames

After the polyurethane foam has dried and cut off the excess, you can begin installing double-glazed windows in Euro-frames or cut glass in ordinary wooden structures.

Installation of double-glazed windows

When installing double-glazed windows into existing frames, it is very important to follow all recommendations.

Before installing a double-glazed window, special spacer pads must be placed in the lower inner part of the frame. They are also sometimes placed on the sides and top, between the frame and the glass unit.

The spacers must be laid so that the weight of the glass unit is distributed evenly along the entire length of the frame profile. One of the sides of the gasket should protrude slightly beyond the perimeter of the glass unit.

This must be done so that when the bead is driven in, cracks do not form on the glass. When driving it, the bead will select the final location of the lining, moving it to the required (but not more than) certain distance.

Next, a glass unit is carefully installed on top of the gaskets. For ease of installation, professionals use special suction cups. They help to easily lift a fairly heavy element and install it in the frame opening.

Having installed the double-glazed window, hammer in the glazing beads using a wooden hammer. They must fit tightly into the gap intended for them and press the glass unit against the frame.

After the installation of double-glazed windows is completed, they proceed to installing the window sill and insulating the ceiling, floor and walls.

Glazing of a wooden frame

To glaze a wooden frame, you will need small nails, wooden glazing beads, a rubber spatula, putty or sealant, drying oil and a narrow brush.

When installing glass in a wooden frame on a balcony, you may encounter one discrepancy, which is considered the rule in this work. The beads that secure the glass in the window opening must be nailed from the outside in order to protect the frame from moisture penetration, which is not always possible to reproduce in a balcony located above the first floor.

If the frames are small, then glazing can be done before the frame is installed on the parapet.

If the wooden structure is massive, pre-installed glass will make it even heavier and lifting it will not only be problematic, but also dangerous. Therefore, you will have to install the glass into the frame from the inside, and there is nothing wrong with this if this process is carried out correctly.

The first thing you need to do before installing the glass is to treat all window openings in the frames with drying oil, applying it with a narrow brush. Then you need to wait until the composition is absorbed into the wood and dries.

If the frames are to be painted, then the next step is to apply paint on top of the drying oil on the openings of the frames, which should also dry well.

After this, putty is applied to the folds of the opening using a rubber spatula in an even layer, 2.5 ÷ 3 mm thick. This will prevent water from getting between the glass and the frame.

Then the glass, prepared to size, is installed in the frame opening, on soft, not hardened putty, and carefully pressed against it.

Next, another layer of putty is applied to the inside of the glass, and a glazing bead is installed on it, which is nailed very carefully with nails. The nails are installed on the bead vertically or horizontally, since if they are driven in at an angle, the glass can easily be damaged.

You can do without putty, using instead a silicone tube, which is cut on one side along the entire length and placed on the edges of the glass.

Another option for installing glass in a frame is to fix it only on putty, which is applied under the glass, and then on it in a fairly thick layer, and carefully leveled.

From modern materials, sealant is used to seal the gaps between the frame and glass. Many are afraid that it will stick tightly to the glass, and if necessary, it will be difficult to remove it from the opening.

To prevent this from happening, the glass is smeared along the edge with a soap solution or liquid soap, and after that it is attached to the sealant and fixed with a glazing bead, which is also nailed down.

Note!

If you completely lack the skills to work with tools and building materials, then it is recommended to entrust this process to professional craftsmen. Moreover, today some companies producing Euro-frames provide free installation when ordering their products.