Upon landing vegetable crops and trees, their characteristics are taken into account - plant growth in the sun or in the shade, abundant or moderate watering, differences in root systems. However, not everyone knows that when planting crops in the garden, their compatibility with each other should be taken into account. Summer residents who grow vegetables know that productivity depends not only on favorable conditions and care of plants, but also on their location in the beds. Adhering to compatibility rules garden crops, even beginners will be able to rationally use land plot and get a good harvest.

If neighbors in the garden bed are chosen incorrectly, this can cause poor growth and development of crops, accumulation of insects and the formation of fungus due to excessive watering. Correct placement of plants in the beds, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect on their growth and also makes them more resistant to disease.

Principle mixed beds used by farmers and hobbyists who grow organic vegetables, fruits and berries, since the correct compatibility of vegetables during planting helps repel pests, and there is no need to use chemicals. Correctly selected neighborhood and rational use garden plot allow you to increase productivity up to 20%.

Mixed plantings are not as complicated as they might seem at first glance. Before you start sowing, the plants need to be divided into groups, taking into account the intensity of watering and lighting, and the need to apply fertilizers. It is recommended to draw up a site plan with the distribution of plants. By adhering to the rules of vegetable compatibility, the gardener will receive the following benefits:

• saving land area;
• reduction in the incidence of diseases;
• plants attract harmful insects less;
• applying less fertilizer;
• increasing the yield and taste of fruits.

Rules and table of compatibility of vegetables with other crops in the garden

By planning a scheme for joint planting of vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees, it is possible not only to increase the yield and quality of fruits, but also to create beautiful garden bed. When distributing crops in the neighborhood, the following rules must be taken into account:

• “neighbors” must have similar requirements for light and moisture, acidity and soil structure, as well as the same rate of development and period of fruit ripening;
• it is unacceptable that the width of the bed is less than 1 meter;
• the garden is divided into several sections (in the middle part tall plants are planted, the fruits of which take the longest to ripen - tomatoes, peppers, cabbage);
• Early ripening plant species are placed closer to the borders - most often these are greens and herbs; this place is also suitable for grapes and strawberries;
• In order for the soil to remain fertile, it is important to follow the rule of crop rotation (planting plants several times in a row on the same soil is unacceptable);
• correct proximity involves the distribution of vegetables in the beds, taking into account their root system; the best option is when crops with small and more developed roots alternate.

The table will help you plan what and where to plant, taking into account plant compatibility. The table shows the most common vegetables.

Vegetable	Good compatibility	Poor compatibility
Eggplant	Peas, potatoes	Onions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic
Peas	Eggplants, potatoes, corn, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beans	Onions, garlic, tomatoes
Daikon	Zucchini, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, spinach, pumpkin	Peas, strawberries, cabbage
Cabbage	Potatoes, onions, lettuce, beets, celery, dill	Strawberries, beans
Potato	Eggplants, peas, cabbage, onions, corn, parsley, lettuce, beets, horseradish, beans, garlic, radish	Cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel
Onion	Black currants, garden strawberries, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, watercress, spinach	Beans, peas, beans, cabbage
Carrot	Peas, onions, tomatoes	Fennel
cucumbers	Peas, dill, beans, lettuce, cabbage	Potatoes, tomatoes
Pepper	Onions, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, basil, eggplant	Peas, cucumbers, celery, beans
Parsley	Onions, lettuce, peas, beans, tomatoes, radishes, beans	Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish
Tomatoes	Green crops, cabbage, onions, gooseberries, asparagus, beans	Potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, fennel
Salad	Cabbage, garden strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes, spinach, peas	Tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, beets
Beet	Cabbage, onion, lettuce, beans	Fennel

With fruit and other trees

It is not recommended to plant shrubs, berries and vegetables in the rows of a young garden. This is explained by the fact that plants, and especially crops from the nightshade family, take all the nutrients from the soil.

If the trees have long taken root and delight their owners with their fruits, you can sow seeds of parsley, cilantro, dill, radishes and lettuce under them. These crops do not harm their neighbors and ripen in the shortest possible time; in addition, in the shade the greens remain juicy for a long time.

You can also choose perennial plants - strawberries, wild garlic, jusai, mustard, mint, lemon balm.

In mid-summer, Chinese cabbage, radish and radish seeds are sown in the shade of trees. Beans feel good under the canopy of a tree. Thanks to it, the soil is enriched with nitrogen, which in turn improves productivity.

Under old trees, some gardeners successfully grow cucumbers, lagenaria, pumpkins and zucchini. The plants climb beautifully along the trunk, and thanks to the fertile soil they produce a good harvest.

Regarding tomatoes, expert opinions differ - some believe that the plant will stretch due to insufficient lighting, others say the opposite, reaping a good harvest under a tree. Gardeners also claim that planting is mutually beneficial for both tomatoes and fruit trees, since the latter are protected from the codling moth, and tomatoes are less likely to suffer from late blight.

If you want to decorate your garden with roses, you should know that planting them next to plum, pear and apple trees is not recommended. Under walnut Greens and vegetables will not grow well. It is also worth considering that tomatoes and potatoes are bad neighbors for apricots.

With flowers and herbs

Vegetables do not really like being in the vicinity of marigolds, while placement near marigolds is favorable. They protect plants from nematodes and make the beds beautiful. Calendula improves soil quality, and pests are afraid of it. Both plants are planted near cucumbers, carrots and potatoes. It is best to sow marigolds and zinnias near tomatoes.

Nasturtiums will help against aphids, whitefish and snails. Flowers are sown between rows or randomly near garden crops. Daffodils and tulips are planted near carrots.

Herbs such as chamomile, tansy, yarrow and wormwood protect plants from pests. Gardeners love nasturtium because it resists pests and weeds, and also delights with its beauty until late autumn. In addition, it can be eaten by adding to salads. It gets along best with potatoes and cabbage. Garlic planted with roses repels beetles.

Also edible plants include borage, or borage. It repels pests, loosens the soil, removes excess moisture and blooms very beautifully throughout the summer, attracting pollinating insects.

With bushes

You can sow greens in the garden near the bushes. Gooseberries, raspberries and other berry bushes do well near fruit trees, provided that they do not shade them too much.

Combined plantings of raspberries and bush beans are characterized by mutual beneficial effects, but the plants will not like the proximity of raspberries and blackberries. To protect the bushes from the codling moth, sow tarragon or tarragon.

It is recommended to sow lupine, hyssop, onions, and garlic near grapes, but planting cabbage and hazelnuts leads to the death of the young grapevine. Near it you can place currants, raspberries, radishes, legumes, beets, and cucumbers. It should be borne in mind that grapes planted near a bed of berries have a special taste. The most favorable is its proximity to strawberries - this is how the grapes turn out to be large and sweet.

Gooseberries get along well with red currants; they do not compete for space and do not attract common pests. You can also plant lemon balm, mint, basil and sage with gooseberries - the herbs repel sawflies, aphids and moths. For the same purpose, tomatoes are planted near the gooseberries. An unfavorable neighbor is onions. Raspberries and gooseberries can be planted under plum trees.

• It is better to place eggplants near onions, beans, spinach, and thyme;
• It is better to plant onions, herbs, tomatoes, carrots, kohlrabi, and zucchini next to hot peppers;
• strawberries and parsley located nearby feel good;
• cucumbers are friends with most plants, especially beans, zucchini, celery, garlic, onions, spinach;
• the legume family gets along well with peas, parsley, cucumbers, corn, potatoes;
• beets grow well near strawberries and onions;
• It is recommended to plant carrots in a bed with onions, garlic, and radishes;
• cabbage gets along in the same bed with celery, dill, rosemary, and beans;
• It is better to plant sorrel, carrots, lettuce, radish, radish, spinach near the strawberries;
• It is better to plant garlic next to celery, carrots, roses, and gladioli;
• sweet peppers are planted in the same bed with basil, okra, beets, fennel;
• tomatoes prefer to grow separately, and not together with other vegetables, but do not mind being adjacent to onions, beets, and corn;
• pumpkin gets along with legumes and radishes;
• loves potatoes if nasturtium, marigolds, beans, and cilantro are located nearby;
• excellent companions for onions are carrots, beets and all types of melons.

Examples of successful plant combinations

When drawing up a plan for the beds, taking into account the principle of joint planting of vegetable crops, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the options successful combinations. Examples of good neighbors with good fertility and minimal morbidity rates:

• alternating pumpkin, corn, legumes and nasturtium;
• a bed of radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, spinach, early potatoes;
• alternating rows of carrots, parsley, dill;
• a plot with legumes, tomatoes, cilantro, carrots, marigolds;
• a bed of cucumbers, basil and tomatoes;
• rows of potatoes, cabbage, spinach, beans, corn.

What plants are best not to be planted next to each other in the garden?

Improper placement of vegetables and trees can cause reduced yields or attract insects. To avoid mistakes, gardeners are advised to familiarize themselves with crops that are poorly compatible with each other:

• green onions should not be planted next to garlic;
• you should not plant turnips, tomatoes, asparagus, rhubarb, or zucchini near cucumbers;
• garlic should not be planted close to peas, beans, soybeans, peanuts;
• for gooseberries, black currants are a bad companion;
• Juniper and cherries cannot be placed together with a pear;
• mint, basil and cilantro have a bad effect on the growth of garlic;
• It is not recommended to plant apricot, lilac, cherry, sweet cherry, barberry next to the apple tree;
• cherries do not do well near currants;
• Raspberries and strawberries planted nearby become a favorable environment for weevils.

Walnut

Rowan

Compatibility and incompatibility of plants in the garden

Distances between plants, life expectancy, yield

Compatibility and incompatibility of plants in the garden (trees, shrubs, grapes, strawberries, garden crops)

Go straight to the table ->

I studied very carefully the issue of plant compatibility in the garden according to scientific work and in practice. I will share my conclusions with you.

Some plants in the garden don't get along with each other. Reasons for plant incompatibility there are the following:

1) the roots of neighboring plants lie at the same depth and prevent each other from growing,
2) one neighboring plant releases substances that are harmful and unpleasant for another neighboring plant,
3) neighboring plants simultaneously consume nutrients (some category), which is why both lack them,
4) one plant attracts or provides “shelter” for pests of a neighboring plant.
There are other reasons.

Respectively plants can be good friends , whose roots are located at different levels, which release substances useful to their neighbors, do not compete due to nutrients. You also need to take into account the watering regime. It happens that one plant needs abundant watering, while another prefers to receive watering only a few times a year. It is clear that it is very undesirable to plant them next to each other. Well, you need to think about the shadow. If one plant grows and shields its neighbor from the desired sun, then such a neighbor will not be able to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
That is why it is very advisable to take into account which plants in the garden can be placed next to each other and which cannot.
But here we must warn you that the various compatibility tables that you find on the Internet are often not based on scientific information. The fact is that you won’t find serious, in-depth research on this topic during the day. Who will lead them in the absence of funding? So all these tables are often compiled based on the observations of individual gardeners and their exchange of experience.

Eat a few more nuances to consider when placing plants in the garden, they are not related to compatibility and incompatibility, but they will certainly be useful to you when planning your garden.

1) We try not to plant those bushes under the trees on which the berries ripen during the period when the trees need to be sprayed. So that the poison does not get on the fruits of the bush. This approach applies not only to shrubs, but also to other “edible” plants. And not every poison needed to protect a tree should be allowed to its short-growing neighbors.

2) If our neighbor has good healthy pears near our fence, then perhaps we will also plant pears on his side so that they pollinate each other. Pollinators are also important to consider.

I will give a table in which I summarized information about compatibility and incompatibility in the garden the following plants: apple, pear, quince, cherry, black cherry, plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, rowan, viburnum, walnut, hazelnut, hawthorn, serviceberry, black currant, red currant, golden currant, gooseberry, raspberry, blackberry, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn , barberry, dogwood, rose hips, grapes, actinidia, Chinese lemongrass, strawberries. From it you will learn what can or even should be planted with in the garden, and what cannot be planted with.

Table of compatibility and incompatibility of trees, shrubs, vines, strawberries and other plants in the garden

Many gardeners note that it is good to plant herbs in the garden: anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, and tarragon. Their odorous substances repel many pests and inhibit the spread of diseases. But beware of eating such garden plants after they have been sprayed with pesticides

The compatibility of plants with each other is probably the most topical issue gardeners, because our harvest will depend on the proximity of plants to each other.

Now there is such a science as allelopathy. It's funny, but translated from Greek this word means shared suffering. Those. essentially it is the science of how plants can mutually influence each other - oppressing some and helping others. It turns out that in nature, plants behave the same way as people.

Below I give an excerpt from the book by B.V. Bublik, a well-known agronomist in Russia organic farming- "Melange vegetable garden"

Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion to potatoes and oatmeal. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of watermelons.

Eggplant. Ashiritsa helps eggplants grow healthy (in small quantities, of course). Beans repel the Colorado potato beetle. The space between the eggplants (quite extensive) can be successfully used for salad. It is beneficial to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against fleas (in extreme cases, infusions).

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is a type of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden bed in the winter, and in the spring, peas can be planted on the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, and cucumbers with okra.

Peas. Peas are an excellent companion for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all kinds of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent rotting of pea roots. Lettuce, spinach and even eggplants grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can cross-pollinate, and both will become bitter. Radishes and pigweed help melons grow.

Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar. Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbages by celery, thyme, hyssop, and wormwood. The combination of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), onions of various types (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans is beneficial for cabbage. Cabbage is compatible with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explained only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): I have simply never seen such tight, tasty and clean cabbage as planted between rows of potatoes after hilling. Cabbage doesn't like strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower does not like the proximity of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants shading it.

Potato. Many plants can provide useful company to potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, ashiritsa. But potatoes have an affectionate “companion” - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, among the possible neighbors, we will single out those who can help the potato in this trouble. Horseradish protects potatoes well from the Colorado potato beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters in depth and breadth, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would protect the garden from horseradish contamination. Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (tend to expand the territory they occupy) and cannot be planted together with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. The infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetactone, which is destructive to the larvae. The infusion of delphinium has the same property. Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then forgotten about them. Coriander, nasturtium, and flax repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly). They can be sown at random, but it is better on the south side of the row: they will cover the soil of the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant to the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can confuse it. To combat the beetle, you can use trap plants. If you have extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants - rarely, every 20 bushes. The beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (belladonna) are even more elegant in this role. Female beetles lay eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae are literally trapped: the leaves are deadly poisonous to them, and they are unable and unwilling to change the plant. True, creating these traps is quite a troublesome task: prepare the seeds, the right time and sow them in the right place (or even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-seeding. If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmice, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, and orioles - can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle. Effective in the fight against beetles, an infusion of nut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the poison juglone contained in them is very persistent, unlike nepetactone or the curare-like poison of delphinium. Of course, if we “live together”, then we can water the garden with juglone. But then it’s even “better” to sprinkle DDT.
Another serious scourge for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes fight late blight is garlic. Not only on its own, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for infusion. Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. The ability of potatoes to resist the disease is weakened by raspberries and, naturally, tomatoes growing nearby. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini and cucumbers can be home to late blight, although they themselves do not suffer from it.
Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, onion. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad influence on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and the latter (in revenge, or what?) prevents the apple trees from absorbing phosphorus and nitrogen. It is bad in the vicinity of turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Onion. Onions are good in company with different types of cabbages. He also loves onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial onions (batun, chaivis) are good in circles near roses. Onions are especially useful in the proximity of carrots and potatoes. Brilliant company - borage, sow thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladius. Onion borers do not like onions.

Carrot. Carrots go well with onions of all kinds, garlic, oatmeal, but dill and anise go poorly. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects. There is no need to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will taste bitter.
Oat root. Oat root repels onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (which also repel onion flies) and sown in rows interspersed with onion ones.

cucumbers. Cucumbers go very well with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive ants away. The proximity of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, and sunflowers has a beneficial effect on cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around a cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and flourish, scare away harmful insects (cucumber beetles, for example), and attract beneficial ones. Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, pigweed, sow thistle, tansy. The proximity of tall plants that provide light shade is beneficial for cucumbers. Shchiritsa sacrificially lures caterpillars that gnaw at the roots.

Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Parsnips are frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Blooming parsnips (in the second year) are attractive to beneficial insects. It is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help it grow.

Pepper. Pepper feels good with basil - they provide mutual services to each other. Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of the pepper from the wind and the fruits from the sun. Onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, and marigolds can repel aphids from peppers. Nasturtium can be used as a trap. It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, you need to keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. It rarely attacks tomatoes, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, you need, for example, to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from the drying potato tops to the tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and when the potato tops are drying out, a steady wind blows from the tomatoes onto the potato beds. Late blight is worse. When are they created ideal conditions for epiphytic late blight - it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved through prevention, for example, by venting the “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - with garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, etc.). Tomatoes are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular, with cosmos. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels hornworms. Stinging and dead nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). Shchiritsa is useful in small quantities. Tomato leaves contain solanine and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot. Tomato root secretions are harmful to apricots. Corn and tomatoes should not be planted next to each other.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes and any cabbage except cauliflower. It is not harmed by some shading, which can be provided, for example, by Brussels sprouts. Climbing beans and mustard are unpleasant neighbors for beets. By spraying beets with mint or catnip infusions, you can rid them of flea beetles. The flea beetle, however, only brings “cosmetic” damage to beets. Worse with aphids. If colonies of aphids appear on beets, they can cause noticeable damage to them. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but a decoction of rhubarb leaves or a garlic infusion is more effective. You need to especially carefully look after beets growing next to Brussels sprouts, which are adored by aphids more than any other vegetable. By the way, some birds love aphids - sparrows, titmice, finches, nuthatches.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, and bush beans. They like to gather in celery roots earthworms: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a kind of home for the worms. Celery loves shade. In it it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, particularly wheat. Corn benefits greatly from company with soybeans. Soybeans repel corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed the corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. Radishes planted around the hole help the pumpkin fight pests. Nasturtium is also good in this role. Contribute to better growth pigweed, quinoa, sow thistle (naturally, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Beans in strawberries are useful. It helps corn and pumpkin. The company with radishes is mutually beneficial. Carrots help beans grow. Beans and savory make a wonderful pair. Both taste better and pests do not find their way to them. Climbing beans do not do well with beets, kohlrabi, and sunflowers. All onions and gladioli inhibit beans.

Garlic. Garlic is incredibly good in a social garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles. Garlic makes an excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, and beans from certain fungal diseases. Housewives have been putting garlic cloves into grain, flour, and cereals for a long time. Garlic is good to surround fruit trees, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows superbly in company with many plants (even the very allelopathic vetch!). An indispensable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Spices
Here we will talk about herbs that are good both on the table and in the garden. They add taste and aroma to food, energy and resistance to pests and diseases to plants, fertility to soil, harvest to vegetables, and beauty to the garden.

Basil. If we talk about spices in our gardens and don’t start with basil, God will not forgive. What other herb is so beautiful - what does it taste, what does it smell, what does it look like?
And yet, basil is interesting not only from a culinary and aesthetic point of view. It also carries some “social” burdens. Repels hornworms from tomatoes and corn. Keeps ants at bay. A crushed basil leaf is the best (and most pleasant) mosquito repellent. Basil grows very well with sweet peppers, but poorly with rue. Adds energy to neighboring plants. Repels aphids and ticks from them. Confusion of the Colorado potato beetle. Dispels flies in the kitchen.

Oregano and marjoram. Oregano (motherland) and its cultivated analogue, marjoram, are good both in the kitchen and in the garden. They have a persistent pungent odor, reminiscent of thyme. All plants feel good near oregano and marjoram: both growth and taste improve. The proximity of cabbage to them is especially useful: they drive away the cabbage butterfly.

Snakehead. Snakehead (Turkish mint) owes its name to the seeds - black, flattened, with two white specks. It, like basil, attracts and shelters beneficial insects and protects plants from pests. As for his behavior in companies, we can say that observations of the snakehead for ten years have not yet given any reason to believe that anyone is having a bad time with him.
Thanks to its “ankle-like nature,” the snakehead can provide support and favorable shade for cucumbers.

Hyssop. Not everyone enjoys the camphorous smell of hyssop, so it may seem inappropriate in salads. But for treatment various diseases respiratory organs - chronic cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma- it is irreplaceable (used as an infusion). For this alone you can find a place for him. Just find it, because hyssop, unfortunately, is expansive and over time it may become more abundant than we would like. Hyssop attracts bees and repels many pests. Increases grape yield. It is bad for radishes and radishes near hyssop.

Coriander. Coriander has many virtues. It is very useful for anise: it improves seed germination, improves growth, and increases the size of umbrellas. Promotes the growth of cumin rosettes (in the first year). It repels aphids well from the plants they adore. It blooms luxuriously and attracts a lot of beneficial insects.
Coriander is a good neighbor for almost all plants. It only oppresses

fennel. And rightly so for this “bully”, who, consider it, is bad for the whole garden.
And finally, the most important advantage of coriander (from a sociable point of view): it can be sown anywhere (and anytime). And in a bed with wintering coriander, you can plant and sow any crops directly over the “stubble”, without digging: the soil is so thoroughly “plowed” with its roots.

Mint. Mint is a favorite in the social garden. Its strong, pungent smell drives away pests. Next to it, the growth and taste of cabbage and tomatoes improves. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Mint gives lamb meat, egg, pea, and potato dishes a unique aroma. One problem with mint is its tendency to uncontrollably expand its area. So you need to choose a place for her with some caution. It is more difficult to “hobble” mint in the garden than to plant it in a window: just dig up the rhizomes in late autumn, put them in a box, cover them with 3-4 cm of soil, water them carefully and enjoy them all winter long.
Mint is suitable for fungicidal solutions.

Borage. Borage (borage) stimulates the growth of many plants, especially strawberries. Just keep in mind that the borage bush grows over time and needs to be pruned or even removed if it begins to heavily obscure other plants. In its presence, plant resistance to diseases increases. Borage is also known as an indispensable remedy in the fight against cabbage caterpillars.

Parsley. The role of parsley in an intensive garden is significant. The presence of parsley gives health to tomatoes and improves their taste. Parsley rosettes cover the soil well under tall plants and enliven the floral landscape. It is useful to “ring” whimsical roses with parsley.
Blooming second-year parsley provides shelter and food for a host of beneficial insects. You can save “extra” bushes of flowering parsley in the garden, but to avoid self-seeding, send them to the compost heap when the seeds begin to ripen. Typically, parsley that produces seeds dries out.
You can protect yourself from carrot flies, which can bother parsley, as well as slugs using leeks. Wonderful, technologically compatible company. In summer, leeks protect parsley from the sun. Both crops (at least partially) remain overwintered in the ground. They should be covered with light mulch, uncovered early in the spring, and early greenery trimmed from both.
Joint planting of parsley and leeks is organized as follows. As soon as it becomes possible work in the garden, parsley is sown in ribbons 5-6 cm wide with row spacing of 30 cm. And after a couple of weeks, 10-week-old leek seedlings are planted between the rows - and the bed is formed. Until the parsley sprouts, you need to keep the bed clean, let the soil warm up, and then mulch it and no longer disturb it with a hoe until next spring. You may need to pull out weeds that have made their way through the mulch from time to time.
Parsley is chock-full of vitamin E. It's hard to name a dish that it could ruin. And among the Caucasians, famous for their longevity and “agility,” it is simply unthinkable to have a table without fragrant sprigs of parsley.

Watercress. This herb is an even more essential spice on the Caucasian table than parsley. The ease of growing watercress is beyond anything imaginable. It is enough to scatter the seeds, but you may not have time to sprinkle them - they sprout so quickly. But seriously, it takes two to three days for it to sprout.
As a culture for companies, cress does not deserve kind words. It oppresses (and this is not a folklore, but a scientific fact!) the seedlings of many cultures, even the wiki that knows how to “fight back.” It is bad for the plants that have already appeared in the vicinity. So you need to sow cress separately

Ruta. Rue doesn't do well with basil. And roses and raspberries are a good protector against pests. The only trouble with rue is that its leaves can cause skin burns when it is in bloom. If trouble happens, you need to wash your hands with soap and lubricate them with vegetable oil.
Rue grows well with almost all flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. Helps get rid of flies near the compost heap and around the yard.
Rue has something unusual, but very useful property: if your beloved cat likes to scratch her favorite furniture, then you need to rub the places on the furniture accessible to the cat with rue leaves. And the furniture will be intact, and the cat will not “work.”

Dill. Really, everyone knows everything about dill. But there is one misconception that must be mentioned when discussing the sociable properties of plants. Usually dill grows anywhere, by self-sowing. Some gardeners don’t even sow it at all, but make do with the carrion seedlings, carefully avoiding them when weeding. This is what you shouldn’t do. Many plants (especially potatoes, carrots, tomatoes) do not like the proximity of dill. It significantly suppresses their growth and reduces yield. It reduces noticeably and clearly. It’s strange that many gardeners don’t see this.
Dill also has friends. Next to it, cabbage grows better and tastes better. Not bad for onions, lettuce, cucumbers. Cucumbers especially benefit from the shade of dill. Dill umbrellas are very tempting to beneficial insects.

Fennel. Plants that are friends of fennel are unknown to folklore. But this does not mean that it has no place in the garden. It attracts and provides shelter to so many beneficial insects that it can compete with such “tempters” as tansy, angelica, and goldenrod. It can only be inferior to the katran, but the katran blooms for only two weeks, and fennel - for several months. It blooms even after the first frost, when it has already wilted under the pressure of the cold. brother fennel - dill. This refers to dill sown in the fall, and not the dill of the spring “call” - this has long since disappeared.
It is necessary to sow fennel in the garden, it is very necessary, but choose a separate place for it - the ruff one - without neighbors.

Sage. Sage is indispensable near cabbages - it gives cabbage flavor and juiciness, but pests do not like it. Sage with carrots is good (the carrot fly cannot tolerate it). But sage is contraindicated for cucumbers.

Thyme. Thyme grows not only in the garden. He also creeps into wildlife, on the sunny slopes. It is better to propagate it not by seeds, but by dividing the rhizomes.
Young leaves and shoots are used like any other edible herb. Dried thyme makes an excellent tea. A fragrant bath with thyme infusion. You can grow thyme in any corner of the garden. It is a weak eater, grows slowly and does not compete with anyone for light or nutrients. Improves the taste of vegetables, repels pests, attracts bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects. An excellent companion for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.
Some crops can be sprayed with thyme decoction: it masks the “native” smell. There is conflicting information about cabbage: cabbage itself is beneficial in proximity to thyme, but its pests are not afraid of the smell of thyme. A “carpet” of thyme under roses, anise, and corn is good.

Chaivis. This fragrant onion, also called onion, chives, chives, is good because it supplies a delicate, non-coarse feather from snow to snow. Decorates salads and different dishes. Its feather tastes softer than that of an onion.
Chaivis is good in company with carrots, tomatoes, roses, and grapes. A circle of chaivis around an apple tree will protect it from scab, and around a rose - from black spotting. But, like garlic (and all onions in general), it is a poor companion for peas and beans. Chaivis infusion can prevent powdery mildew on cucumbers and gooseberries.
You can easily start chaivis on the windowsill for forcing fresh herbs in winter: with the onset of cold weather, dig up required quantity bunches, cut them 4-5 cm from the beginning of the roots, keep them in the cellar for 3-4 weeks, simulating hibernation, then separate the bunches, easily trim the roots, hold them in hot water and put it in a box. It is necessary to collect greens by cutting off the entire plants at a level of 4-5 cm above the ground. And under no circumstances should you pluck the feathers - the remaining parts will turn yellow and the plant will become sick.

Technological crops
Technological crops here are called green manure crops. It so happened that plowed green fertilizers have always been called green manures. And the “fertilizing” function of these crops is far from the most important. More important functions are protecting the soil in the off-season from rain and winds, improving the structure of the soil, increasing biomass for compost and mulch... In the first place is, of course, loosening the soil.

Vika. If suddenly there were no buckwheat in the world, then Vika would not have to ask “My light, mirror, tell me...” - it would undoubtedly be the best technological culture.
The main and invaluable advantage of vetch is the creation of amazing soil. It not only loosens and adds organic matter to the soil. By fixing free nitrogen, it enriches the soil with nitrogen compounds available to plants. Vetch tissues contain a lot of phosphorus.
When vetch blooms, all kinds of insects - pollinators - swarm around it. It provides a secluded refuge for ground beetles (ground beetles) and spiders. There is no need, of course, to transfer the caring attitude towards the ground beetle to a similar carabid beetle, capable of cutting more than one strawberry bush “like Kotovsky.” The krawchik is noticeably more lobed than the ground beetle and has a cutting apparatus reminiscent of “claws.” snow blower. Fortunately, the fight against the crayfish is not difficult: just early in the morning or late in the evening, pour boiling water over its hole (with a fresh release of soil).
Beds sown with winter vetch can be planted in the spring for heat-loving crops. Keeping in mind the allelopathic nature of vetch (including “post-mortem”), it needs to be embedded in the soil 3-4 weeks before planting and allowed to “ferment.” The soil will become loose, structured, rich in nutrients. Just keep in mind that, as the vetch ripens, it “shoots” the seeds many meters around, and then they sprout within a few years.
The vetch, which is prone to lodging, needs some kind of “nanny” whose hem the vetch could hold on to. Usually for this purpose it is sown with oats (spring) or rye (autumn). As already mentioned, vetch is allelopathic, but don’t put your finger in your mouth either on oats or rye. Of course, the vetch would grow better without these neighbors, but then it would die and rot. However, if winter vetch is embedded in the soil in the spring, then there is no need for support.
There was a case when barley was sown in the spring to the winter vetch, which was left without support (there was no rye at hand). Vika allowed him to ascend, catch up with her (she grows slowly), and then crushed her. To death. She didn’t take away the light - the barley was already taller; she didn’t starve them to death - there would have been enough “food” in the soil for both of them, but she simply poisoned them with root secretions. At that time, I had heard a lot about allelopathy, but I didn’t think it was so serious. Now I understand that the cultures that support vetch are sown at the same time as it and manage to gain the necessary strength to resist it. But the young barley plants could not cope with the vetch.
There was another embarrassment. Once I gave up a bed of vetch to the peppers already in the days of planting the peppers, losing sight of the “ruffiness” of the vetch. The vetch embedded in the soil did not have time to clear itself, and the peppers stood there in vain until the fall; they did not even grow decent tops.
It is a pity that such a valuable plant is so aggressive. If we consider that vetch that is cut in bloom dies, then how many interesting companies could be created with it. But, in the end, the vetch does not eat its bread for nothing. No plant can compare with it in creating and protecting the soil during the long off-season.

Buckwheat. It's a shame: such an extraordinary plant also has a serious drawback - buckwheat is incredibly heat-loving. Even +4 (plus!) degrees is enough for it to, if not wilt, turn sour. This greatly hinders the creation of companies with buckwheat (also, incidentally, allelopathic). Just wait out the possible ones spring frosts(and this is all the way until June), as September is already around the corner. But still…
Buckwheat can be sown in any clearing formed in the summer. It suppresses weeds well, enriches the soil with organic material, converts phosphorus from forms inaccessible to other plants into accessible ones, and attracts bees, hoverflies and wasps from all over the area with nectar-rich flowers.
The excessive heat-loving nature of buckwheat is fully compensated by its “agility”. It manages to reach the required size and bloom well, even when sown after potatoes. And after garlic, peas, lettuce - give ripened seeds. This is very important, because buckwheat seeds cannot be obtained without hassle.
Buckwheat is a good neighbor for cabbage. The buckwheat carpet around the cabbage camouflages it, confusing butterflies, cutworms and moths, and the cabbage becomes tastier and cleaner.

Oats. A seemingly harmless culture. But if you sow oats in a former raspberry field, you can get rid of the inevitable raspberry growth.
Oats are very good as a technological crop. Sown at the end of summer, it will have time to build up a fairly rich biomass, loosen the soil and cover it for the winter. Until spring, the remaining oats will be washed, get rid of harmful secretions, and the bed, enriched and loosened, will be ready
accept any culture without digging.
There was a curious incident. A neighbor, inclined to look closely at the soil, once sowed oats for grazing geese after harvesting potatoes. And in the fall, having pulled out a bunch of oats, I was amazed: “Is this my land?” So lumpy, beautiful, brownish, stuffed with earthworms, the soil in the lump was unrecognizable.
Oats are good as a “pioneer”. If it is sown first in virgin soil or fallow lands, the soil will be cleared of May beetle caterpillars, etc.

Wheat. Wheat is allelopathic, but not as noticeably as rye. She cannot do anything with poppy, bindweed, and thistle that are harmful to her (rye could deal with them “with one left”). Chamomile helps wheat grow (in very small quantities). Closely growing tulips and sorghum are harmful.
Wheat straw is often used as mulch. Clean, bright, it is incomparable on strawberries.
By the way, English name strawberry is simply a “straw berry”. This is how strawberries and straw “grew together”!
It is necessary, just in case, to avoid embedding straw (even former mulch) into the soil. It’s better to let it rot in a heap for a year, the harmful discharge will stop - then you’re welcome. It has been established, for example, that if lettuce roots come into contact with straw rotting in the soil, the plant dries out. This straw reduces seed germination (and yield) of corn by about half.

Rye. Here is another culture ready to “talk to the mirror.” But it is not without a defect: it has high allelopathic activity. Before my eyes, she literally wiped out the seedlings of beets, lettuce, spinach, oat roots, and carrots from the face of the earth. I used to be surprised at the purity of the rye fields. But it turns out that we should have been surprised at the weed that survived in this field.
However, recently my friends amazed me with an unusual (and unexpected) picture. As is customary in Ukraine, their potato plot was framed by strips of beets. After harvesting the potatoes, they sowed the area with rye. By the end of autumn, she managed to grow almost to her knees - an emerald, and that’s all. But - almost meter width the strips of rye on the beets looked like they had been watered with Roundup - undersized and withered. Ripe beets did to rye what rye that grew in the spring did to young beets. Truly “mutual suffering”!
Rye has one valuable (if not priceless) quality: it kills the inaccessible root nematode. It is enough to sow rye in the fall and incorporate it into the soil in the spring - the nematode will disappear.
If rye is left for grain, then it is very useful to have a small amount of chamomile in this bed - the ear will be fuller.
A small amount of rye will relieve strawberries from black rot, and onions from some fungal diseases. Rye flour helps fight cabbage pests: sprinkling cabbage with flour dehydrates the caterpillars.
Finally, we must recall the main, integumentary function of rye. Together with and without vetch, it covers and binds the soil during the difficult autumn-winter period. If there is no need for rye seeds or grain, in the spring you can embed it in the soil or remove it (along with the roots, just in case) to the compost heap. In a heap, this nitrogenous additive is more appropriate than in the soil (due to “post-mortem” allelopathicity).
With the help of rye you can clear a plot clogged with wheatgrass. It is enough to grow rye on it for two seasons in a row.

Chumiza. Chumiza (Italian millet) is a random find of mine. The first time it was sown out of pure curiosity and it was right at home. It penetrates the entire arable layer with powerful root “balls”. In one year, the soil becomes unrecognizable - granular, richly fertilized with roots.
An unusually productive crop. The ears can reach the size of a cattail “rocking chair”. Grain is an excellent feed for chickens. It is known that hens accustom their chicks to different foods gradually - they “pay attention” to earthworms, for example, only in the second week. So, they include chumiza in the chickens’ diet from the first day.
However, the most valuable quality of chumiza is its extraordinary cleaning ability. In its vicinity, only its closest relative, mice, survives. All other weeds are suppressed - even bindweed, which fears neither God nor the devil.
Chumiza has one defect - it is heat-loving. She has to give up the garden bed for everything summer time. However, not in vain. Builds soil, kills weeds, provides straw for mulch and millet for chickens - quite a lot...

Flowers

Only a few of the most popular flowers are discussed here.

Marigold. Marigolds (tagetes) are just like that: all the fuss around them is throwing the seeds at the right time and in the right place, and then throwing them into the compost heap or planting them in the soil at the right time. But in companies they are not so simple.
On the one hand, marigolds are an excellent means of combating root nematodes. Their roots attract the nematode, but it cannot reproduce in their environment. Dead end! Moreover, not only the roots are effective, but also the plants themselves, embedded in the soil. Marigolds protect beans, cabbage, tomatoes, and roses from pests. The Colorado potato beetle and aphids do not like it.
On the other hand, they are quite allelopathic, in particular, they inhibit the growth of beans and cabbage, which are protected from pests. Just like in the famous poem “I won’t let anyone hurt my sister Lida...”.

Calendula. Calendula is a very widespread flower in our country. And he deserves it. It blooms profusely (if regularly cut) and for a long time, until severe frosts, pleasing the eye both for us and for beneficial insects.
Unfortunately, calendula is vulnerable to aphids. Well, let it serve as a trap, and let the branches affected by aphids serve as a nitrogen supplement for the compost heap.
Calendula easily, against the will of the gardener, sows. She shouldn’t be allowed to do this: she’s a little allelopathic. Inhibits, for example, corn, watermelons, melons. In general, calendula is useful in some companies, because its pungent odor makes it difficult for pests to find their “breadwinners”. It produces abundant biomass.

Space(cosmea). You want to find something good in every plant, but you don’t need to look in space. Simply an impeccable plant in all respects. Beautiful, graceful, harmless, with abundant but sparse, feathery foliage and cute, unpretentious flowers. Space is prone to self-seeding - and thank God. Let him grow where he pleases. It is attractive to bees and other beneficial insects that find nectar in the flowers and shelter in the branches.
Fragile branches can break under their own weight - this is also good: you can stick a branch into moist soil and a new plant will grow in a week.
Cosmos can be sown at any time in any suitable place - for living mulch, for shading plants thirsty for shade, for a bouquet. This is also a flower that the more you cut, the more it grows. It is useful to pinch a young seedling - then the space will branch more strongly.
It sounds paradoxical, but litter the garden with space, and it will become more alive in every sense of this capacious word.

Linen. Flax, of course, is a technical crop, but in the garden flax is flowers, and therefore it is described here.
Flax was mentioned when listing plants that help potatoes in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. The beetle does not like the tannin and smell released by the leaves. linseed oil in ripening seeds. Flax is also good in company with carrots.
However, you shouldn’t get carried away with flax. Confusing the Colorado potato beetle is a sacred thing, but there is no need to sow flax anywhere - it is allelopathic.
There is decorative flax, red petal flax. It has larger flowers, it blooms until frost, but no information has been found that characterizes its behavior in companies.

Nasturtium. Aphids love nasturtium. Direct hint: you need to sow nasturtium next to crops that suffer damage from aphids, lure the aphids into this trap, and then remove the canes infected with aphids into the compost heap.
If you need nasturtium on its own, you can spray it with soapy water.
But other pests, for example, cabbage whitefly, do not like the smell of nasturtium. Nasturtium also protects beans, cucumbers, and pumpkin. Many beneficial insects hunt for the nectar of nasturtium flowers.

Sunflower. Sunflower is described here for the same reason as flax. In the garden it is not a technical crop; it is grown mainly for fun.
So that's about fun. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, and you should not litter it in the garden. However, the sunflower itself is not a gift to the neighbors.

Beans, pumpkin, cucumbers, corn, soybeans - these are all the crops that do well in the company of sunflowers. It is especially bad for tomatoes and potatoes. Moreover, it oppresses its neighbors not only because it is allelopathic. It creates a thick shadow. In addition, it is known as a glutton even among plants - strong eaters and literally eats up its neighbors.
And, nevertheless, it is necessary to plant sunflowers in the garden, and not only for the sake of tradition. It can even surpass buckwheat in its attractiveness to bees. But the place for it must be chosen quite carefully, keeping in mind both the allelopathic nature and the gluttony of the sunflower. And to thin out the shadow it casts, break off the lower 6-7 leaves.

Zinnias. Zinnias are just as easy to grow as marigolds, except they need to be cut more often - to the benefit of them and the bouquet. When regularly cut, the bush branches strongly and blooms powerfully. And cut flowers remain fresh for a long time.
Zinnias attract all kinds of beneficial insects. Their cheerful coloring is also cute for gardeners.
You can sow zinnias anywhere for the sake of beauty, to “call” beneficial insects, and to shade plants that need protection from the sun. They are completely harmless and not allelopathic. They bloom quite quickly and manage to produce flowers even if they are sown after harvesting the potatoes.
By the way, zinnias are an excellent cover crop. The plant is strong, does not shrink from frost, like buckwheat and even oats, stands with leaves all winter and retains snow well in winter and melt water in spring.

Chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums require some fiddling. And they cannot be grown in vegetable beds: rain washes away toxic compounds from their leaves that inhibit the germination and growth of other plants. Moreover, they are even “disgusted to themselves”: they grow poorly in the place where they grew before.

Article taken from the site: http://derevnyaonline.ru/community/264/3052, based on materials from the book by B.V. Bagel "Melange Garden", by elsa27

With the onset of spring, an active time begins for all gardeners and gardeners. They begin to spend more and more time on their plots, trying to grow as much as possible. different cultures, sometimes in a relatively small area. Strawberries (garden strawberries), with their juicy and delicious fruits As a rule, almost everything is grown. But not everyone knows what to plant next to strawberries so as not to harm them and grow a rich harvest of these wonderful berries.

In fact, strawberries are a fairly unpretentious plant and peacefully coexist with many vegetables, fruit plants and flowers. However, some crops can have a rather negative impact on its growth and reproduction. We will tell you in detail how to choose the right neighbors for your strawberries.

The importance of proper crop rotation

First, let's talk a little about which plants are good predecessors for strawberries and which are not. Crop rotation is the most important agrotechnical measure; with its help, the soil replenishes its natural reserves. Most crops are not planted in the same place each year because they draw different amounts of nutrients from the soil. Another reason for the need for crop rotation is that different plants respond differently to weeds, diseases and insect pests. Strawberries have some pests, but cucumbers, for example, have completely different ones.

This rule does not apply only to potatoes, tomatoes and legumes - they are able to successfully bear fruit for many years in one place without depleting the soil. Strawberries usually give a good harvest for 3-4 years, and then they need to be transplanted to another area. Therefore, you should know which crops will be good predecessors for garden strawberries, and which ones are better to plant after them.

What to plant after strawberries

Each plant has its own requirements for soil, fertilizers, etc. Strawberry loves organic fertilizers, loose and well-fertilized soil, in which there should be sufficient quantity potassium, nitrogen and trace elements. This plant has deep root system Therefore, observing the principle of alternation, it is better to plant crops with shorter roots in front of it. Also important point crop rotation is that after a disease suffered by the previous plant, in this place in next year a crop must be grown that exhibits sufficient resistance to it.

When deciding what to plant after strawberries, experienced gardeners usually opt for root vegetables or legumes.

You can safely plant:

• cucumbers;
• radishes and turnips;
• onion and garlic;
• , beans, lentils.

Old strawberry bushes must be dug up and burned to destroy pests and pathogens. Then carefully remove all weeds and dig the soil deeply.

• rosacea raspberry;
• cloudberries;
• rose hip.

These plants have many diseases and pests in common with garden strawberries. They also have almost the same requirements for soil composition.

The best predecessors of strawberries

The most the best crops, which grew in the garden bed before planting strawberries on it, are considered:

• radish;
• parsley;
• spinach;
• garlic;
• turnips and radishes;
• legumes;
• carrots and beets;
• corn.

Bulbous flowers will also be useful predecessors:

• hyacinths;
• tulips;
• daffodils, etc.

If the area of ​​the plot allows, agronomists recommend growing strawberries after black fallow or rehabilitating the soil using green manure plants:

• wiki;
• alfalfa;
• buckwheat:
• clover;
• grain crops, etc.

Among other green manures, alkaloid lupine is considered the most suitable for strawberries. It produces substances that are poisonous to wireworms, but is absolutely harmless to berries, without affecting their taste or edibility in any way.

After digging, the plants will remain in the soil. They will improve its structure, enrich it with nitrogen and have a positive effect on weed suppression. It is strictly not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.

Rules for planting strawberries

Combined planting allows you to economically and rationally manage the space of your garden, especially if it is small. In addition, beneficial neighbors have a beneficial effect on each other, improving the condition, taste and nutritional value of the fruit. Another advantage of such plantings is that the plants protect each other from diseases and pests.

There are four rules for planting plants together that it is advisable for every gardener to know and follow.

• Rule 1. Crops that need the same things should not be planted next to each other. useful substances. They will try to take them from each other, and as a result, both plants will not develop well and bear fruit.
• Rule 2. The proximity of plants that have different watering requirements is also undesirable. It turns out that one crop will not have enough water, and the second may suffer due to excessive watering.
• Rule 3. Plants should not shade each other. This can only be done if one of the crops requires shade or diffuse lighting.
• Rule 4. If plants that have common diseases and pests are planted in the same bed or nearby, you can destroy two crops at once. Such a landing is strictly not recommended.

In the case of growing in greenhouses, it is important that the humidity, light and air temperature are suitable for each of the plants.

As for strawberries, they require soft, loose soil rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It also needs plenty of watering and sufficient, but not too bright, lighting. Garden strawberries can be affected by late blight, so plants that carry this fungus should not be planted next to them. Of the pests, the most dangerous for berries are and.

Mulching strawberry beds with coniferous (spruce or pine) needles has a positive effect on its taste.

To get a good, abundant harvest, you need to select neighbors for strawberries, following the above recommendations and rules of crop rotation.

Neighborhood with root vegetables

The best neighbor for garden strawberries among root vegetables is root parsley. Planted between berry bushes, it will repel snails and slugs. Also good combination– strawberries and carrots, just don’t mix them with parsley, you need to choose one thing. But both carrots and parsley go well with garlic or onions.

You can also plant next to strawberries:

• beets;
• radish.

It is better to choose varieties for planting whose fruiting time coincides with that of strawberries. Radishes can be planted directly between the rows; to do this, leave a distance between the rows of 50-70 cm. And it is better to place radishes or beets in adjacent beds, but without combining them with each other, but by choosing one of the crops.

Combination of strawberries with onions and herbs

Among bulbous plants, strawberries get along well with garlic and onions. Just don’t plant them next to each other, since onions and garlic have common diseases and pests. In terms of usefulness, garlic is especially worth noting. It repels the fungus that causes late blight, and the berry is very susceptible to this disease, especially some varieties. Root parsley, already mentioned above, works well with garlic.

Strawberries and onions also go well together. If you also plant carrots nearby, these crops will repel pests from each other, and at the same time protect the strawberry beds. Onions as a neighbor also promotes the rapid growth of berries and the reproduction of strawberries, eliminating the problem of rotting bushes.

Among green crops, the berry goes well with plants such as:

• sorrel;
• spinach;
• borage;
• different kinds salads

The majority of green crops are unpretentious and do not deplete the soil. They do not share any common pests with strawberries. And also when correct scheme plantings can create some darkness - in the southern regions, where there is active sun, this will be very useful. According to reviews from experienced gardeners, greens accelerate the growth of strawberry whiskers, which is important when vegetative propagation. In addition, green crops do not require special care, and spices(coriander, basil, thyme, anise, tarragon, etc.) repel many pests.

Legumes and strawberries

Plants of the legume family occupy one of the leading positions in the list of neighbors useful for garden strawberries. These are peas various varieties beans and lentils and other crops. Thanks to their root system, they “loose” the soil and supply it with nitrogen, which is beneficial for the berries. The beds with legumes can be positioned so that the strawberries are slightly shaded and receive diffused rather than direct lighting.

However, legumes, by producing nitrogen, can make the soil too acidic. To avoid this, you can use fertilizers containing alkali. And you will have to do more careful weeding, because many weeds also grow very willingly next to legumes.

Strawberries and flower crops

In addition to vegetables and herbs, strawberries go well with flowers, especially tulips and irises. According to experienced gardeners, they are able to increase the yield of garden strawberries several times, well promoting their growth. This applies to the greatest extent to varieties remontant strawberries. In addition, irises and tulips help the heat-loving plant endure cold winter periods more easily.

In addition to them, you can plant other flowering plants next to the strawberry bed (or directly on it):

• peonies;
• fern;
• jasmine;
• marigolds, etc.

These flower crops also have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden strawberries.

Flowers such as are worthy of special attention. With their properties they repel many pests:

• nematode;
• weevil;
• mole cricket;
• onion fly, etc.

In addition, these flowers protect against fusarium, which is very important for strawberries.

You can plant marigolds not only in beds and between rows, but also along the entire garden perimeter. It is also useful, when digging up the soil in spring, to scatter finely chopped marigold stems in it.

The proximity of strawberries to trees and shrubs

Favorable for strawberries and proximity to various trees and bushes. They have a good effect on berries, pines, sea buckthorn, grapes, etc. The main thing is that the trees do not shade the beds too much.

Under no circumstances should strawberries be planted next to a birch tree; it does not tolerate such proximity very well. So much so that you may not see any harvest at all, destroying all the berries.

Plants that should not be planted with strawberries

For some reason, some gardeners have an ingrained opinion about the almost absolute unpretentiousness of strawberries and the ability to plant them with the most different plants. This statement is partly true: you can plant anything and with anything. The only question is how this will affect the harvest, and simply the survival of the plant.

Here is a list of plants that agronomists categorically do not recommend planting strawberries next to:

• crops of the nightshade family;
• plants of the clove family;
• raspberries;
• cabbage;
• horseradish;
• sunflower;
• Jerusalem artichoke.

The worst neighbors for garden strawberries will be crops of the nightshade family: tomatoes and potatoes, especially the latter. In addition to the fact that it consumes substances necessary for strawberries, it is a carrier of late blight. Such a neighborhood can very quickly (in 1.5-2 months) destroy a strawberry bed.

Garden strawberries also do not get along well with plants of the clove family. And sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil for a long time and can harm not only strawberries, but also other plants, especially considering that the husks of sunflower seeds are poisonous. It is strictly not recommended to plant these plants near strawberry beds.

This also applies to raspberries, which many summer residents often try to plant next to strawberries - and completely in vain, since raspberry bushes shade the strawberry beds and greatly dry out the soil. As a result, garden strawberries often stop bearing fruit altogether.

Cabbage is an undesirable neighbor, as it needs the same substances as strawberries. In addition, it needs constant and abundant watering in much larger quantities than garden strawberries. These incompatible crops should not be planted in the same area.

Every gardener who grows strawberries always hopes to get a bountiful harvest of these delicious, wonderful berries. Today we told you about which plants will contribute to this, and which will only cause harm. If you take into account local climatic features, do not forget about correct crop rotation, as well as provide careful care for the plant (timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds), then the grateful berry will certainly please the owner with a rich harvest.