Block house is a popular material used for finishing walls and facades of various buildings. Technology of internal and exterior finishing has no significant differences. Traditionally, a block house is made of wood, but there are more budget analogues from other materials. However, if you have an affordable budget, it is recommended to give preference to wooden panels - they are environmentally friendly, durable and the most beautiful. You can handle the installation of a block house with your own hands without any problems.

Before starting work, you have to buy a block house. When choosing a material, study it carefully external condition. Typically, the slats are packaged in polyethylene at the factory. If possible, such packaging should be opened.

Boards with the following defects will not suit you:

• rotten bitches;
• cracks;
• plaque of rot and mold;
• bluish spots.

The size of the pitch should not exceed 8 mm in width and 2-3 mm in depth.

Be sure to pay attention to the placement features tree rings. It is better that they adjoin each other as closely as possible - this arrangement indicates high density and in general good quality wood

What do you need for work?

Installation of a block house does not require any highly specialized accessories. Self-tapping screws are used in most cases to fasten panels. An indispensable assistant An electric drill will do the trick.

Also, clamps are often used to secure the house block. For the manufacture of these products, galvanized iron is used, which makes the fasteners as resistant to corrosion as possible. The clamp has the form of a flat plate with a tongue and pre-prepared cuts for mounting screws. The tongue will hold the block house panel. The height of this fastener element should be at least 6-7 mm.

All other things being equal, preference should be given to clamps rather than self-tapping screws. Clips allow you to fix the panels without the risk of cracks, deformations and other defects. In addition, the use of clamps allows installation with almost invisible joints, which makes appearance cladding is much more aesthetically pleasing.

For 10 m2 of sheathing you will need about 200 clamps. This expense should not alarm you - fasteners are sold at a very affordable price. In addition, using clips instead of screws will allow you to significantly reduce the time spent on installation work.

During the cladding process, it often becomes necessary to cut panels into smaller pieces. It will help you with this electric saw. If the amount of work to be done is small, you can do without a saw, using an ordinary hacksaw with small teeth to cut the sheathing elements.

It is permissible to use and circular saw, however, in this case, the cutting disk should not have carbide tips that could interfere with the evenness and cleanliness of the cut.

Pre-purchase insulation. Characterized by good heat and sound insulation properties mineral wool and other insulation materials based on it.

If possible, you should refrain from using polystyrene foam - this material does not combine very well with wood due to its low vapor permeability and, among other things, supports combustion.

Select the timber for assembling the sheathing taking into account the dimensions of the insulation boards.

Buy vapor and waterproofing materials. Vapor barrier will protect the insulation from condensation, and waterproofing will protect it from external atmospheric moisture. For vapor barrier, you can use membrane material, perforated film or ordinary glassine. Polyethylene film does an excellent job of solving wall waterproofing issues.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work everything wooden elements need to be soaked with a high-quality antiseptic. It is also recommended to treat the materials with a fire retardant. Thanks to this treatment, the wood will become much more resistant to mold and fire.

In the case of using budget imitations of a block house made of plastic, vinyl or metal, perform preliminary protective treatment no need.

First step. Attach the selected one to the walls vapor barrier material. Fasten with a 10-15 cm overlap, horizontally. For fixation, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler and staples.

Second step. Attach sheathing bars over the waterproofing. It is recommended to make the lathing horizontal. To fix the beam to wooden base you can use nails or screws. If the wall is made of bricks or blocks, fix the bars using frame dowels. In this case, you will have to pre-drill holes in the wall to place the fasteners.

Select the beam fastening step according to the width of the insulation slabs.

Third step. Place thermal insulation material in the cells of the sheathing.

Fourth step. Lay a waterproofing film over the insulation and attach it to the sheathing using construction stapler with staples.

Fifth step. Attach another layer of sheathing, this time vertical, to the main frame. You will attach the house block panels to it. Install the second sheathing with a mandatory level check.

Panel installation

Proceed to covering the surface of the block house using the pre-installed sheathing.

Start installing panels from the bottom corner. The block house can only be mounted horizontally. Some home craftsmen choose the vertical method of placing panels, but it has many disadvantages.

Fix the panels using clamps. Attach the clamps to the sheathing using self-tapping screws and insert the first sheathing panel into the fastener tabs, placing it with the groove down.

Slide the groove of the next panel onto the tenon below the installed trim piece. Continue working in the same manner until you have tiled the entire wall.

If you decide to give preference to self-tapping screws and abandon clamps, start installation with preliminary preparation recesses for placing screws at the bottom and top of the board. Place the fasteners in increments of a little more than 40 cm. Screw the self-tapping screw into the tenon at an angle of about 45 degrees.

After fixing the main part of the trim, you will need to disguise the screws to make the trim look as beautiful and attractive as possible.

You can hide the metal heads of self-tapping screws in one of the following ways:

• using the remains of the block house panels. Make plugs from the scraps according to the size of the holes and secure the plugs in the recesses using ordinary PVA glue. Sand any rough spots with sandpaper;
• using ready-made plugs. Sold in specialized stores. You can easily match the caps to the color of the main coating. To attach the plugs, use PVA glue;
• using wooden "paste". To make it, use PVA glue and sawdust. You need to get a fairly thick mixture. Fill the existing holes with the finished mixture, let the composition dry, and then sand the surface. The method is simple and least expensive, however, the attachment points may slightly differ in color from the main wood.

How to design corners?

Finishing the corners when covering a block house causes the most difficulty for beginners. To complete this stage of work, you can buy “boats” for decoration. internal corners and special elements for finishing external corners.

The finished plinth will fit tightly to the block house only in top point, as a result of which large unclosed gaps will remain in the sheathing, which is a huge disadvantage and generally unacceptable.

It is much more expedient and easier to use planed timber with a section of 5x5 cm to finish the corners. It should be secured before the sheathing begins. As a result, you will be able to attach the house block boards to the timber, and the finish will look as aesthetically pleasing as possible. The method is suitable for finishing external and internal corners. You can round it if you want outer part bar to an oval shape.

Cashing installation

Also, novice craftsmen have difficulties when framing doors and window openings. To decorate these building elements, special boards are used, known as platbands.

The main task of the platbands is to hide the cracks and block the path of cold street air, precipitation and various debris.

If you wish, you can buy decorative trims with various carved patterns and ornaments - at this point, be guided by your own preferences. Platbands can have semicircular, figured and regular flat shapes. Choose according to your taste.

In accordance with the installation method, cashing elements are classified into telescopic and overhead products. U telescopic platbands There are special protrusions that need to be inserted into the slots of the window or door frame.

The cash invoice is simply attached to the surface using nails and screws.

In general, when choosing platbands, be guided by your personal preferences, the design features of the house and the site as a whole.

Thus, the installation of a block house can be done with your own hands without any problems. Having understood the main features of the work, you will cope with the finishing no worse than a professional master and, at the same time, you will be able to save significant money. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - DIY block house installation

Natural traditional building materials have always been in fashion. At the same time, they have a lot of disadvantages and are not always convenient to use, which became the reason for refusing to use them.

However, there is a way to achieve the appearance of a home that looks like a building made from traditional materials, but is actually siding that imitates a certain texture. In this way you can repeat the brick or masonry, timber or log house using appropriate types of cladding.

The result has a high degree of realism, but is devoid of the disadvantages of traditional materials and is capable of performing, in addition to decorative, also additional functions protection from mechanical influences and very important function removing water vapor or, more simply, drying the wall material. One type of such cladding is a block house.

Block house is a material for external cladding that looks like a log house. To achieve this, each panel has a relief corresponding to the visible part of the log in the masonry. In cross section it is a segment of a circle. back side equipped with several longitudinal grooves that serve to compensate for expansion when humidity changes.

The side edges have a tongue and groove on opposite sides, with the help of which the sheathing fabric is assembled. This is what it looks like classic look house block, which is made from wood. The material has the natural color of the wood from which it is made and does not differ in the variety of colors.

However, during operation it is necessary to apply protective coating, which is periodically updated or changed, which allows you to change the color of the walls from time to time, keeping the cladding intact.

There are later options - . They are variants of conventional siding, the shape of the relief of which corresponds to the texture log wall. There are one- and two-wave samples with a single or double relief texture. They have their own specifications, characteristic of siding made of vinyl or galvanized steel and completely different from a wooden block house.

These materials are united only by their shape; the cladding of a wooden, vinyl or metal block house looks almost the same (with the exception of the color of the canvas, which can differ significantly from one to another) different types), installation method and operational requirements are different.

Wood species used for cladding

Natural block house is made of wood. The most common breeds I use are:

• Pine. The most common type of wood in our country. Light weight, relatively clean structure. Various defects, blue discoloration, and resin pockets are often encountered.
• Larch. Dense wood with expressive texture. Has relatively heavy weight, resistant to mechanical stress. Prone to geometry changes when stress increases during drying.
• Spruce. Relatively light and soft breed, characterized by a large number of knots. Of all the conifers, it is the least used.

In addition to conifers, there is material from deciduous trees:

• Birch. The densest and heaviest. Easily releases and gains moisture. Durable, easy to process and polish.
• Alder. The wood is clean and relatively soft. Relatively resistant to atmospheric moisture. There are few defects and flaws. The weight of alder panels is light.
• Linden. Clean and light wood with low weight. Low density, soft. Requires careful handling and mandatory prompt application of a protective coating.

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the type of wood from which the block house is made, since each type of wood has its own characteristics that you need to know about. For example, conifers contain a certain amount of resin, which to some extent preserves the material, slowing down the accumulation and removal of moisture.

Hardwood, on the contrary, quickly gains or easily releases moisture, but this continues until the time of final aging. If the material is immediately coated with a protective paint layer, the aging process of the wood slows down, but contact with moisture also stops, preserving the structure of the material in its original state.

To protect wood, a thick surface layer is not as important as deep impregnation array with materials such as drying oil or special impregnating oils. Their composition may be incompatible with some types of varnishes or paints, which should be taken into account when choosing a topcoat.

Methods of fastening wooden cladding

Installation of wooden panels is carried out different ways, of which the main ones can be identified:

Fastening with nails or screws through the front surface. The fixation is strong and reliable, but visible nail or screw heads significantly degrade the appearance of the sheathing.

Hidden mount. The nail or screw is screwed through the tenon; after installing the next panel, the head is hidden inside the groove. The method makes it possible to hide the heads of the fasteners, but there is a danger of splitting the tenon or creating an obstacle to the tight assembly of the panels.

Sometimes they use the technique of driving nails (screwing screws) at an angle, which eliminates interference during assembly, but in practice this method is quite complicated, and the panels often end up split.

Fastening panels to clamps (clasps). Most good option. The panel is not exposed to any impact. The clamp is attached to the sheathing (installation over insulation is possible). It has a special bracket that grips the bottom of the groove and firmly presses the panel to the base, and installing the next panel closes the clamp from view.

It turns out completely hidden mount, which does not destroy the body of the panel and does not threaten the appearance of cracks, chips or dents. This installation does not require any special skills; all actions are simple and intuitive.

NOTE!

For installing a wooden block house, the most convenient way is a lathing made of wooden planks, which is more accessible for screwing screws at any angle and allows the use of nails.

Methods of fastening other types of block houses

In addition to wood, vinyl and metal panels. The installation method for both types is exactly the same and does not have many options, since siding has a strictly regulated installation procedure that does not allow changes.

The design of the panels consists of a convex part - a wave, a locking part and a nail strip. The last two elements are invisible, they serve to fix the panel on support system. The locking part snaps into the corresponding profile of the previous panel or into starting bar, and the nail strip, which has many oblong mounting holes, is attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws.

In this case, the main condition must be met: the screws are not screwed in all the way, the panel must be able to move within the hole in both directions without resistance. The screws are tightened strictly perpendicular to the surface and exactly in the middle of the hole so that the power reserve in both directions is the same. This is done so that the panel can change its position when heating or cooling.

Unlike a wooden block house, vinyl and metal samples have a high coefficient of thermal expansion, so it is necessary to take this into account during installation and leave the possibility of slight movement.

It is not possible to change the installation method. Firstly, the mounting holes must have a certain form, fastening through ordinary drilled hole will deprive the panel of the ability to move, and this is fraught with undesirable consequences. Secondly, in any other place the head of the screw will become visible, which will ruin the appearance of the canvas.

CAREFULLY!

Before starting installation, you should read the instructions that come with the material in order to understand the installation method for this type of panel or possible individual characteristics material.

Installation of a block house depends entirely on the type of material. Traditional wood panels have several acceptable installation options that do not affect the performance of the material. The craftsman will need to have certain skills in working with wood (for sawing joints at 45°, etc.). Vinyl or metal types require compliance with specific rules, which cannot be changed without deteriorating performance or appearance.

The procedure for installing siding is described in detail in the instructions that are included with the material upon sale. It should be carefully studied to avoid mistakes.

Useful video

Another interesting method of attaching panels:

In contact with

In our article, we examined in detail the differences in block house varieties and learned how to choose quality material. Let us dwell in more detail on the intricacies of installation: arranging the sheathing, choosing insulation and antiseptic impregnations.

Block house cladding is a reliable and environmentally friendly way to finish new facades and repair old ones. However, we should not forget that wood is a rather capricious material that requires a special approach. Therefore, even before the installation of the block house begins, several points should be taken into account:

1. The smaller the area to be closed, the smaller the diameter of the selected block house should be. Wide boards visually reduce space, especially in enclosed spaces.
2. To achieve a high-quality result when covering a new wooden building, you should wait until the house stands and shrinks. Usually this takes about six months from the moment of assembly and installation of the log house - otherwise, during the drying process, the block house may come apart at the seams and the entire work will need to be completely redone.
3. The purchased material should be kept for several days in the room where the work will be carried out (if you plan to cover the facade, then under a canopy). The block house must acclimatize - gain humidity and temperature environment- only in this case there will be no problems during subsequent installation and operation.

Stage 1 - preparation for installation

Before starting the installation of the block house, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work:

1. Prepare the base - treat the walls antiseptic impregnations(wooden house) or by removing efflorescence and impregnating the stone (brick or block house), filling up chips, potholes and cracks.
2. Seal the crowns of the log house (in log house) - caulk them with tow, jute or flax fiber. To seal the seams, you can use special wood sealants. But this method is less reliable and durable - the putty composition sooner or later breaks down and loses its properties, unlike jute sealants, the fibers of which practically fuse with the wood.
3. Treat the block house intended for installation - the surface of the wood is impregnated on all sides with fire-bioprotective compounds, and, if necessary, tinted with stains or colored impregnations for wood. It is extremely important to apply the first coat before installing on the walls - this way you can treat everything hard to reach places(tenons and grooves) and avoid drips and streaks.

Stage 2 - installation of sheathing

The main purpose of the lathing is to level the wall and create extra space for laying insulation (if provided). To install a block house, vertical sheathing is most often used - the boards attached to it imitate the surface of a rounded log. Occasionally, for the interior decoration of baths and saunas, non-standard horizontal lathing is used, sewing a narrow block house onto it like a lining.

To obtain a level base for a block house, you must first mark the walls using a level and plumb line:

1. Using a level, pull a horizontal line along the longest wall - first along the top, then along the bottom.
2. Using a plumb line, pull and align the vertical line in the corners (so that the wall is not blocked).
3. Repeat the procedure around the entire perimeter of the building.

The first plank of the sheathing is attached along a vertically stretched fishing line, all subsequent ones are aligned horizontally and vertically. The slats are mounted over the entire surface of the wall, including the spaces between the windows, door frames and cornices. The usual pitch for lathing is about 60 cm (in areas with strong winds - no more than 30 cm).

Most often, dry timber or a galvanized metal profile is used for lathing under a block house:

	Metal profile	Wood block
Dimensions	60x27 mm, 50x50 mm (using insulation)	20x50mm, 30x30mm, 50x50mm and others according to size
Fastening	Using additional fasteners - direct hangers - on self-tapping screws	Galvanized nails or screws
Lathing step	35-50 cm	30-60 cm
Possibility to adjust the size	Length only	Can be processed from any side
Load bearing capacity	Average	High
Additional processing	Not required	Fire-retardant impregnations for wood
Geometry	No complaints	Depends on the method of production and drying, may have all the defects inherent in wood
Flammability	Incombustible	Highly flammable without impregnation
Strength and Durability	High	Susceptible to rotting and attack by wood bugs, can break where knots fall out
Reliability of fastening to the wall	Average	High (several turns of self-tapping screw)

Despite some advantages of the galvanized metal profile, it is much more often used in the construction of sheathing for cladding a block house. wooden block. Wooden material is approximately 25-30% cheaper, and correct processing practically in no way inferior to metal. In addition, such sheathing can be easily adjusted even in finished form— the bars can always be trimmed a little or, on the contrary, extended using thin dies.

Stage 3 - insulation and hydro-vapor barrier

Often, simultaneously with the installation of a block house, additional work for insulation of the facade of the house. Laying protective films and a layer of thermal insulation requires making adjustments to the installation process of the sheathing:

1. Sheet or roll vapor barrier is attached to the façade. For example, you can use protective film“Izobond B” is a two-layer material that prevents the accumulation of condensation and protects against fungus and corrosion. The insulating material is laid with an overlap of 100-150 mm, the joints are fixed with tape.
2. A sheathing of timber is sewn on top of the vapor barrier layer with a thickness equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. In this case, the pitch of the sheathing should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the width of the insulation - this will avoid unnecessary gaps.
3. Insulation is installed in the sheathing, which is additionally attached to the wall using dowel-nails.
4. A layer of wind- and moisture-proof membrane is attached on top of the insulation using a construction stapler - for example, “Izobond B”, which gives additional protection from precipitation.
5. For creating additional ventilation Additional slats are added to the main sheathing, to which the block house will be mounted.

The most suitable types of insulation for block house cladding are: Comparative characteristics which are presented in the table:

	Glass wool (mineral wool)	Basalt fiber	Styrofoam	Ecowool
Thermal conductivity, W/m⋅°С	0,044	0,039	0,037	0,037
Density, kg/m 3	9-13	35	25	35
Environmental friendliness	Contains phenolic resins	Contains phenolic resins	Polystyrene granules	Wood fiber, natural materials
Biostability	Rodents won't start	Rodents won't start	Rodents start	Prevents rodents from getting started, stops the growth of fungi that has already begun
Fire safety		Non-flammable, but the phenolic binder burns, releasing toxic combustion products	Flammable, emits toxic smoke when heated from +80 °C	Refractory, does not emit harmful substances when burning
Soundproofing	Low	Average	Average	High
Condensation Formation		Forms, requires the use of additional vapor barrier	Forms, requires the use of additional vapor barrier	Not formed. Natural humidity

When choosing insulation, Special attention attention should be paid to its density - thermal insulation with a density below 30-35 after several years of operation practically sticks together, completely losing protective properties.

Stage 4 - installation of a block house

On this moment When installing a block house, several technologies are used, differing in the type of fasteners:

1. Kleimer is a special strip that is inserted into the groove of the board and, using a self-tapping screw, secures it to the sheathing.

1. Self-tapping screw or nail - can be attached in two ways: either by recessing the head into the groove of the block house, or at an angle of 45 degrees. Both options require a lot of experience and skill, as they are fraught with chips and cracks of the board.

1. Using a drill, mounting holes for screws or nails are drilled. After fastening, the caps are recessed and closed with special wooden plugs, planted on glue. This is the most reliable and inconspicuous fastening option, but at the same time the most painstaking.

To install a block house, it is best to use galvanized or anodized fasteners - this will help avoid metal corrosion and wood rotting in the future.

According to the rules, the installation of a block house begins from the bottom up, while the tenon of the board should be on top - to avoid excess moisture from entering during operation. It is necessary to leave working gaps for shrinkage and ventilation - 5 cm along the upper and lower borders of the facade and a few millimeters between the panels.

During installation, the board is inserted with a tenon into the groove and additionally tapped along the entire length for better connection. After docking, the top panel is attached to the wall.

To extend the length of a block house, special layouts can be used - thin wooden planks that cover the joints. At the corners, the panels are joined either using a 45-degree cut, or using decorative external and internal corners.

Stage 5 - processing and protection

After initial treatment with impregnations and installation, the block house is like any other wood material, needs constant protection from the influence of many factors: rotting, woodworms, precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. Selection of means and frequency of processing of finished products wooden facade determined climatic zone. IN middle lane In Russia it is enough to update tree protection every 3-4 years.

Now on the market building materials Universal antiseptics are widely represented - protecting and at the same time coloring wood. They are made on a water or acrylic basis. In addition, protective compounds can preserve and emphasize the texture of wood (glaze) or completely paint over it (paint).

For optimal protection facade covered with a block house, it is best to use tinting protective compounds with the addition acrylic varnish. Such impregnations are widely available from trusted manufacturers, such as Tikkurila, Neomid, and Teksturol. Buy cheaper products at water based- is like throwing money away: their protective properties “disappear” literally after a year.

Video on the topic

A wooden block house is an excellent option exterior finishing low-rise buildings. This also applies to this finish made from other materials. It has an attractive appearance and is able to retain natural heat inside the building.

For reference

If you are familiar with the technology, you can install the finish yourself, saving money. The block house imitates finishing with natural wood. This material is made from wood, galvanized metal or vinyl. Fastening is carried out using galvanized dowels or hanging brackets, it all depends on what the panels are made of.

Why choose a block house for the facade

Today, the block house is popular among professionals and home craftsmen. How to attach this material will be described in more detail below. If you still doubt whether you should choose such cladding for your home, then you need to pay attention to positive characteristics, among them:

• the ability to insulate the facade and waterproof the walls of the house;
• short period of work;
• non-exposure of the material to ultraviolet radiation;
• the possibility of finishing not only walls, but also gables, as well as building plinths;
• the ability to install a block house on walls made of any material, be it stone, concrete or brick.

Among the wide variety of modern finishing materials in stores, there is also such as a block house. How to attach this material? Before starting work, it is imperative to familiarize yourself with the technology. You can do the installation yourself, and in the end you will be able to get a cladding that will not lose its original color over time.

Due to the fact that the material is attached using technology, moisture does not accumulate under the finish, which could cause mold. Among other things, such finishing does not place a significant load on the foundation and walls of the house, which cannot be said about material made from natural wood or metal.

Preparing the wall surface

Before attaching the block house to the outside, you must prepare the facade, which must be smooth and dry. The surface can be plastered, and wooden houses can be cleaned and sanded, which especially applies to areas affected by fungus and mold. Such areas should be treated with an antiseptic primer. special purpose. The walls must be additionally waterproofed, for this purpose it should be applied to walls made of brick or reinforced concrete. An exception are walls made of wood; water-repellent composition which will prevent the formation of fungus and mold.

Installation of load-bearing sheathing

If you are thinking about how to attach a block house, then you should know that this material is installed on the sheathing, which is made of metal profiles or wood. The first option is used for fastening galvanized metal cladding, so below we will consider an example of installing a block house on wooden sheathing.

At the first stage, a vapor barrier layer is attached, which can be a film. The canvases should be installed with an overlap of 3 cm, this will prevent steam leakage. The wooden sheathing, timber for load-bearing structure must be dry and treated with an antiseptic primer; it is important to choose a deep penetration composition.

So, you have decided to use a block house for the exterior decoration of your house. How to attach this material? You should familiarize yourself with this before starting work. The technology requires compliance with a certain sheathing pitch, which should be 50 cm. This will guarantee the reliability and strength of the structure. The block house is fixed to the wall surface after laying the thermal insulation and waterproofing, which are located between the sheathing.

On next stage The counter-lattice is fastened, which is installed on top of the insulating layer, and steam and waterproofing. Two load-bearing sheathings are fixed together with galvanized wood screws; it is important to choose the right one desired length fasteners

Features of installing panels

Increasingly, modern builders are choosing block houses for finishing low-rise buildings. You should also learn how to attach this material if you are going to purchase cladding for work. The boards are fastened from below or above the wall. An important rule is the location of the tongue upward, in this case water will not be able to penetrate into the joints of the boards.

Whatever the installation method, it is necessary to leave 5 cm gaps at the top and bottom of the wall to ensure ventilation space. Due to the fact that wood has the ability to expand when exposed to temperature and humidity, it is important to leave a gap between the boards, the width of which should be 3 mm. If this rule is neglected, the panels may be deformed under the influence of external unfavorable factors. The corners of the cladding joints should be decorated with external or internal corners. If the material is significantly thick, you need to hide the junction of the boards with two vertical slats.

Features of installing vinyl siding on the facade

If you want to learn how to properly mount a block house from the outside, then first you must decide on the finishing material. If it is vinyl, then it is also necessary to leave a temperature gap between the panels; its width should be a maximum of 3 mm.

Each product must be fastened only in the place where the manufacturer has provided perforation. If there are no holes for installing fasteners, they must be punched before starting installation. The step between the fastening points should not be more than 40 cm. When working, you should use anti-corrosion fasteners, galvanized screws, which are sometimes replaced with nails of sufficient length.

If you decide to use self-tapping screws, then after tightening them completely, you need to unscrew the fasteners one turn. This requirement is also dictated by the thermal expansion of the material. Nails require a space of one millimeter between the head and the finishing surface.

Features of interior wall decoration of a block house

Many novice craftsmen today are thinking about the question of how to attach a block house inside the house. The methodology for carrying out the work is almost no different from that described above, but there are some nuances.

Regardless of what material the walls are made of, the sheathing should be installed; for this you need to use 30 mm bars. The distance between them can be equal to an interval ranging from 50 to 60 cm; when installing them, it is important to align the elements in height. This has one main advantage - when designing interior walls In a block house there is no need to level the walls before starting work.

Insulation during interior decoration is not necessary, this especially applies to wooden and brick structures. However, the decision about the need for thermal insulation must be made in advance, even before installing the sheathing. If this layer is present, then the thickness of the bars indicated above must be increased.

Before attaching the block house to the wall, it is necessary to calculate how much the room will be reduced, this is especially true in the case when it is necessary to have a soundproofing effect, which is achieved by providing air space between the cladding and the wall.

As a rule, a block house indoors is installed horizontally along a vertically oriented sheathing. But in some cases, vertical installation of panels is also used. This is true in cases where conditions of high humidity remain in the room, which is true for baths and saunas. During the operation of the premises, these technologies make it possible to eliminate the accumulation of liquid in the grooves of the boards, preventing premature destruction of the wood.

If you are thinking about how to properly attach a block house using the above-mentioned installation method, then the tenon of the first and all subsequent boards should be directed towards the light source, this will make the joint of the boards less noticeable. But such fastening is usually considered as an exception, while the generally accepted practice is to install the block house horizontally, in which the tenon will be located on top and the groove on the bottom.

Conclusion

Before attaching a metal block house, you need, as in all the cases described above, to install the sheathing. If you want to achieve a more durable result, then you should choose The insulation layer under the finishing is fixed with disc dowels, and if it is necessary to install a double layer of thermal insulation, you need to apply a bandage to prevent gaps from forming.

Siding made of wood is a traditional material for finishing houses in Canada and the USA. Siding panels allow you to create a comfortable microclimate inside the building, as they have high vapor permeability and zero thermal conductivity.

Application area

Wood siding is mainly used in individual construction. With its help, you can give the building a presentable appearance, besides, wooden panels are a 100% environmentally friendly finishing material that can also be used for interior decoration. Wooden block house panels are used to decorate country houses, decorate the facades of bathhouses and verandas, and also to create fences.

Advantages of a wooden block house

To the main advantages wood siding include:

• environmental friendliness;
• zero thermal conductivity;
• immunity to temperature changes;
• durability;
• strength;
• ease of processing and installation;
• frost resistance;
• high resistance to external destructive factors.

As for the cost of the material, due to its naturalness, the price of wooden panels is 30-40% higher than that of synthetic analogues.

Production technology

Siding is produced from classic types of wood by pressing its fibers under high pressures to give the finishing material the required shape. Similar technology production makes it possible to improve the characteristics finishing material through the introduction of additives and additives that increase the resistance of panels to ultraviolet radiation, fire and moisture. In addition, the texture of natural wood is preserved. To add color, special coloring pigments are introduced into the raw materials, which makes it possible to obtain a varied palette of colors and shades.

After pressing, the panels are sent for drying, the main task of which is to bring the wood moisture content to 10-12%. Proper drying is the key to high performance characteristics of the material.

After drying, the panels are sent for finishing, which is designed to facilitate the process of installing siding. Using special equipment, the panels are trimmed and grooves are cut out, making it easier to join them together. After this treatment, the siding is sanded and goes on sale.

Classification

The classification of block house boards is carried out depending on the quality of the material. A wooden block house is usually divided into 3 classes: A, B and C. where class A has the most high quality, on such panels the presence of cracks is unacceptable, and the number of knots should not exceed 1 for every 1.5 meters of the panel. For class C, cracks in the panels are acceptable, and knots should not have a diameter exceeding 2.5 cm.

Block house installation instructions

When installing wooden siding, it is strictly forbidden to throw them and subject them to various mechanical stress, as cracks may appear on the surface of the material. It is prohibited to store siding in places with high humidity, as this may adversely affect its performance.

Like the installation of other types of siding, sheathing wooden house The house block begins with preliminary leveling and cleaning the surface from dirt. After this, a sheathing is created from wooden blocks, the thickness of which varies depending on the thickness of the panels of the finishing material. Before installing the frame, it is recommended to treat its guides with special impregnations that protect the wood from biological decomposition.

After installing the first layer of sheathing, the walls of the structure are insulated, and the thermal insulation layer itself is protected from contact with moisture using waterproofing films. After installing the heat-insulating layer, a second layer of sheathing is installed, to which the wooden panels will be attached; in addition, the second layer of the frame will provide ventilation gap between insulation and finishing material.

How is the block house secured? The house block is fastened to the wall using nails, self-tapping screws, staples or special fasteners, which are called clamps.

It is best to use self-tapping screws as fasteners, as they securely hold panels of material and eliminate the possibility of deformation of the coating. Before installing the panels in the places where they are attached, it is necessary to drill holes into which the screws will be driven. To ensure that the fastening elements do not disturb the harmony of the layer of finishing material, they are hidden under dowels (special wooden plugs).

Wooden panels can be mounted both from above and from below. When installing, they should not be pulled close to the frame; a temperature gap of 2-3 mm should be left. The panels can be joined either end-to-end (to do this, their ends should be filed at an angle of 45 degrees) or using a joining strip. Installing a block house with your own hands is a rather difficult and time-consuming process and requires the availability of tools and knowledge in construction.

The last stage of installing a wooden block house under a log is the processing stage, which, in fact, is key, because the final appearance of the building’s facade depends on it. The facade should be treated with a special primer, a layer of colorless varnish and special paint should be applied, which will act as a protective layer. After this, the surface is sanded and another layer of colorless paint is applied.

Cost of materials and work

The price of a wooden block house depends on the thickness of the panels and the type of wood used for their manufacture, and varies from 400 to 600 rubles. per linear meter. Cost of façade finishing works wooden block house on average is 400 rubles. for 1 m2 of surface, and with installation of a heat insulator - 600 rubles/m2.

Despite the price of boards for a block house, the façade of the building, finished wood panels, is reliable, environmentally friendly and looks presentable; moreover, the construction of structures from logs is a classic that is always relevant.

Photos of houses