The kitchen faucet is one of the most intensively used plumbing equipment. Any, even the highest quality, device of this kind requires some maintenance over time - replacing a leaking cartridge or loose valve axle boxes. However, it also happens that the body itself becomes unusable from the kneader - from constant exposure to water, irreversible processes of surface erosion begin, the threads in the sockets for valves or cartridges are “eaten”, and the chrome coating is erased. And if the product is made of low-quality silumin, then it is quite possible complete destruction housing with cracks and fragments breaking off.

It may not be such a fatal situation - the owners simply decided to update the interior of the kitchen, and this issue cannot be solved without installing new modern plumbing fixtures. was described in a special article on our portal. Now we will talk about how to change the faucet in the kitchen yourself, without calling a specialist.

This process , Although and very responsible, but still quite accessible to the average apartment owner.

What you need for work

To carry out work on replacing the mixer, you must immediately prepare the necessary components, accessories, tools, and consumables.

• We assume that the mixer has already been purchased. However, you definitely need to check whether the flexible hoses included in the kit are long enough. As a rule, those that come in the kit have only 300 mm, which may clearly not be enough. In addition, if the faucet is not “branded”, then the quality of these metal braided hoses usually leaves much to be desired, and they should be replaced immediately.

When choosing and purchasing such hoses, be sure to pay attention to the fact that the length of their fitting (otherwise it is often called a needle) should be different - this will make assembly easier, since the hexagons will not interfere with each other.

In addition, you need to choose the right type of threaded connection to the water pipe. This applies to both the diameter and the type of threaded part (“male” or “female”). Most often, of course, “female” hoses with a ½-inch nut are used - for direct connection in the corresponding pipe. Nevertheless, options are possible, for example, if a manifold comb or a ball valve with a “female” outlet is installed.

The hoses should not be placed under tension or tightness, but they should not be purchased with a very large margin of length. When pressure changes (opening and closing the tap), they will twitch and vibrate, and this causes rapid wear of the rubber tube located under the steel braid. It begins to wear out and may leak in the near future.

Schematic diagram of a flexible braided hose

Corrugated stainless hoses are more durable and reliable in this regard.

They are, of course, more expensive, and they are somewhat more difficult to install. But such hoses have excellent rigidity - they will retain the bend given to them during installation.

Some craftsmen prefer to make do with flexible hoses, making the water supply to the mixer from a metal-plastic pipe. To do this, you need to purchase a set of fittings with fittings for metal plastic.

Such a line, of course, is also more difficult to implement than with flexible hoses, but once you have installed such pipes, you won’t have to worry about this section in the future.

Video: how to choose really high-quality hoses

• Tools for work you will need:

- Spanners. It is guaranteed that you will need a 10 and 22 × 24 wrench. Very often, fastening nuts on studs require an 11 wrench. If the mixer is attached to the sink with a nut large diameter, then it’s better to prepare an adjustable wrench.

— Screwdrivers with straight and figured tips.

- Pliers.

— In some cases, you cannot do without a gas key.

— If installation will be carried out on new sink, on which there is no hole yet, or on a tabletop, you will need an electric drill with appropriate bits (usually with a diameter of 35 mm).

— To work in low-light conditions, under the sink, you will most likely need a backlight - a flashlight.

• Materials you may need:

— Seals for threaded connections. They will be needed when there is a need to install a coupling, adapter on a water pipe, pack a fitting under metal plastic, etc. You should not trust fum tape - it is better to use ordinary flax tow and sealing paste (such as Unipak) - such a connection will be guaranteed against leakage.

— If the installation of the mixer will be carried out with temporary dismantling of the sink, then it is necessary to prepare silicone sealant and, of course, a syringe for ease of application.

— situations are possible when old “stuck” threaded connections cannot be disassembled. Can help in this case atomizing cylinder of universal lubricant “WD-40”.

Once everything is prepared, you can proceed to further actions.

Prices for popular faucet models

Faucets

Dismantling the old mixer and preparatory work

• Before starting work directly under the kitchen sink, it is necessary to: Firstly, turn off the supply of both cold and hot water. To do this, the valves at the entrance to the apartment are closed, or, if this is provided by the system internal wiring– blocking the water supply from the collector to the kitchen. Sometimes taps are installed directly under the sink. Of course, theoretically it is possible to block only them. However, practice shows that when carrying out work in tight spaces, the possibility of accidental discovery ball valve awkward movement of the hand or elbow. To prevent such a misunderstanding, it is better to completely shut off the water supply to the kitchen.
• After the valves are closed, you should open the tap on the mixer - this normalizes the pressure in the pipe. It is necessary to place a basin or other container of suitable dimensions under the area where the old hoses are connected. The hoses are twisted, allowing the remaining water in the pipes to escape.
• Now you need to remove the old one. This matter is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

— Firstly, working in an awkward position, in a very cramped space, lying on your back is very difficult, especially if the sink is embedded in a kitchen cabinet.

— Secondly, the “classic” location of the mixer is between the wall and the sink bowl. To operate in such a narrow niche wrench very difficult - there is simply no room to overlap and rotate it.

- Thirdly, almost certainly all the connections have rusted due to time and dampness, become “stuck” and will not easily give in.

In numerous Internet articles on replacing the faucet, this stage is sometimes described in passing, like “unscrew the pin with a screwdriver and pull out the faucet.” Experienced craftsmen they know the value of such statements - with a very high degree of probability, these same studs will not yield to a screwdriver; rather, the rusted slot will be cut off. This means you will need a key, and the “convenience” of working with it in these conditions has already been discussed.

Which exit? If it is possible to remove the sink (and this is possible in the vast majority of cases), then there is no need to hesitate - both the dismantling and subsequent installation of the mixer will be completed faster and with much better quality. It is better to spend a very small amount on purchasing sealant and carry out fairly simple steps to remove the sink and then install it in place - in the end you will still win.

• To dismantle the sink, of course, you will need to disconnect it from the sewer. You can remove the flexible corrugated hose from sewer pipe, or, which is probably more convenient for further work, simply unscrew the retaining ring on the siphon and remove this “glass” from the drain pipe of the sink.
• Now, having sat comfortably, it will not be difficult to remove the spent yours mixer. Depending on its design, either a large lock nut or studs are unscrewed. You may need to spray these assemblies with WD-40 to get them to yield. There are situations when this does not help - then you will have to take radical measures - cut them off with a hacksaw or a grinder. The main thing is not to damage the sink.

Sometimes you have to resort to cutting with a grinder when replacing an old type mixer installed on a rigid liner made of steel pipes.

It is extremely difficult to disassemble rusted or covered with several layers of paint. Therefore, it may be more profitable to simply cut off the higher threaded part. Next - by circumstances. If you manage to free a high-quality threaded pipe for further connection of a flexible hose, then the issue becomes simpler. If not, then, apparently, you will also have to cut the thread with a tool.

• In order not to put it off until later, it is necessary to immediately inspect the condition of those suitable in the sink. water pipes, in particular, those threaded sections onto which flexible hoses are planned to be screwed. In order for the hose gasket to fit tightly to the pipe cut, it must be smooth around the entire circumference, not have sharp or protruding edges, or geometry violations due to corrosive effects. If in doubt, it is better to “pack” a factory-made threaded extension in this place - this will guarantee a reliable connection to the hose.

It is advisable to “update” the threads on pipes by installing similar extensions

Installation is carried out on tow, the fibers of which are wound clockwise along the threads on the pipe, and then coated with sealing paste. The extension cord is tightened with an open-end or gas wrench until it stops.

• If you wish and have the funds, you can immediately install shut-off valves if they were not installed previously. This will allow you to subsequently carry out any repair work in the kitchen, for example, if emergency situation without turning off the general water supply network at home.
• In the event that you plan to supply water with metal-plastic pipes, it makes sense to immediately “pack” it into steel pipes transition fittings.
• If you intend to install a new mixer on old sink, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the area around the mounting hole from scale build-up, accumulated dirt, traces of rust, etc. This cleaning is carried out on both the front and bottom sides.
• If you plan to install a new sink, you must, of course, immediately try to purchase one that already has an installation hole. However, some models are not equipped with it, and appropriate measures will have to be taken.

If the sink is made of stainless steel, then a special tool is used for this, which cuts perfectly even holes in the metal up to 1 mm thick.

The diameter is selected based on the mixer model. So, if it is mounted on studs, then 28 or 32 mm will be enough. When attaching to a nut, the hole must have a diameter of 35 mm.

The process of cutting a hole is simple

It is easy to use - just drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in the intended location. The device is inserted with the cutting part from below, twisted with a bolt so that the cutting edges fit tightly to the metal. Then, turning the bolt with a wrench, ensure the rotation of the knives in a circle.

The situation is more complicated if the sink is ceramic. To cut the hole in this case, you will need a diamond crown. But even its presence in the home arsenal does not guarantee success - such a sink can easily be damaged if there is no experience in such work.

Advice - in both cases, it is better to turn to professionals. Usually, good plumbing salons will definitely tell you where and how this can be done, and in some cases such a service can even be provided on the spot.

If the mixer is installed on a countertop, then a hole is drilled in it. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a crown - hole sawØ 28 or 32 mm. Making the required hole with such a tool in a wood composite panel will not be difficult.

Installation of a new mixer

As has already been mentioned several times in the article, faucet models may differ in the way they are attached to the surface of the sink or countertop.

• The diagram shows a mixer that is mounted on threaded rods. The kit of such a product includes the studs themselves with brass nuts, a crescent-shaped clamp with holes for the studs and a rubber or polymer gasket of the same configuration.

There are models of mixers that use only one pin, but such a design will not be particularly stable (rotation around the axis is not excluded), and it is better to purchase one with two.

This design ensures reliable installation on surfaces up to 30 ÷ 35 mm thick, which is especially important when installing the mixer on a countertop.

• Another option is that the mixer has a cylindrical threaded part and a nut at the bottom, usually M 34.

Such models are more suitable for installation on a metal sink. It is important that there is no complex relief configuration at the bottom in the hole area - an absolutely flat area is necessary, otherwise a tight fit and reliable fixation will not be achieved.

Installation different types mixers has its own characteristics.

A. Installation of a mixer with mounting on nut

The elongated lower cylindrical part will not interfere with the screwing of flexible hoses, so installation begins, in fact, with attaching the mixer itself to the sink.

• The faucet kit always includes a rubber sealing ring, and there is a special groove for it at the lower end of the body. The first step is to install the gasket into this groove.

• The threaded cylindrical part is inserted into the hole in the sink. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the rubber ring remains in place and does not move.

• Then, a wide rubber gasket is installed below, which should also be included in the delivery set.

The sealing gasket is put in place...

• The brass fixing nut is screwed on. It has a kind of “skirt” - a washer-shaped extension that will provide maximum pressure through the already installed rubber gasket.

...and then the clamping nut...

• The nut is tightened with an adjustable wrench so as to ensure that the mixer does not move on the sink. In this case, it is necessary to check the correct orientation of the spout - it should be positioned so that the sectors of rotation to the left and right from the central position are equal, and the switch lever or valves are positioned exactly relative to the sink. When the mixer is positioned at an angle, the spout position is selected diagonally.

... which is tightened with a key, fixing the position of the mixer on the sink

• Adjusting the position is easy - you can loosen the nut, align the mixer and fix it again.
• Now you can proceed to installing the hoses. To begin, screw in a hose with a short fitting and tighten it with a 10mm wrench.

No winding of the threaded part of the fitting with tow or fum tape, as a rule, not required - it has one or two sealing rings, which should ensure reliable sealing. The fitting is screwed in all the way with medium force - it is dangerous to overtighten, as the rubber ring may be damaged. Usually, hand effort is enough, and only then no more than one turn with the key.

... and then, in the same way - with an extended

• The next step is to install the second hose in the same way - with an extended fitting.
• If you plan to supply water through a metal-plastic pipe, then the fittings with fittings are screwed in in the following sequence - first the one with a bend, and then the straight one.
• After the hoses (fittings) are screwed in, the sink can be installed in place.

Find out how to choose the right one from our new article.

B. Installation of a mixer with mounting on hairpins

The peculiarity of the installation in this case is that the hoses are screwed into the hole in the countertop or sink before installing the mixer, otherwise it will not be possible to tighten it properly.

• First, the brass nuts are removed from the studs, and the studs themselves are screwed into the corresponding holes at the bottom end of the mixer. The studs usually have slots for a straight or figured screwdriver, but, as a rule, they are easily tightened by hand, without special effort. A strong tightening is not needed here - it is enough to simply screw them all the way to a depth of 8 ÷ 10 mm so that they stand steadily, without play.

You can immediately try on how the shaped gasket and pressure plate will fit onto the studs, but then these elements should be removed - they will be installed later.

• Both hoses are threaded into the hole in the sink (countertop) with the fittings facing up.
• Be sure to check the presence and correct installation of the sealing ring on the mixer body - exactly as described above.
• The next step is to screw in the flexible hose fittings. The sequence of work does not change - first short, then extended.
• Mixer with connected hoses and screwed-in pins are inserted into the installation hole of the sink or countertop.

• From below, a shaped gasket is first put on the studs, and then a metal pressure plate. The brass nuts are baited and tightened by hand as far as possible.

• After checking the correct location of the sealing ring on the body and the direction of the spout, the nuts are tightened with a 10 (sometimes 11) wrench until they stop, so that the mixer is securely fixed to the surface, without the slightest play.

Neatly installed faucet - bottom view

• It is important to ensure that there is no gap left near the housing, not covered with gasket- this sometimes happens when too big hole in the sink and incorrect alignment of the mixer in it.

That's it, the mixer is installed, you can install the sink in place.

Let us repeat that all of the above actions, of course, can be carried out under certain conditions and due dexterity without dismantling the sink, but this is unnecessary difficulty.

Find out which one to choose, as well as consider the nuances, from our new article.

Video - Installing a faucet in the kitchen

Prices for components for mixers

Accessories for faucets

Connecting the mixer to the water supply

Installation of a sink is a separate topic that requires detailed consideration in a dedicated article. We can only note that if it is mortise and mounted in the old place, then a strip of sealant must be applied to the cleaned surface of the countertop around the perimeter of the installation. After pressing, it should reliably close the gap to prevent water from penetrating through it.

If the sink is overhead and adjacent to the wall, then after installing it, the gap between them is also sealed with sealant.

Now all that remains is to connect the hoses to the water pipes. Hose nuts are usually already equipped with rubber gaskets, and no rewinding or excessive force is required to securely seal the connection. On the contrary, tightening it too tightly can lead to the destruction of the gasket and the appearance of a leak. It is enough to tighten it by hand until it stops, and then tighten it only ½ turn with a 22 or 24 key.

Of course, there will be some fuss with the metal-plastic eyeliner a little more– it is necessary to carefully measure the required segment, give it the required bend, and then tighten it in the appropriate compression fittings.

Video: connecting a mixer with a rigid connection

Usually, when connecting hoses or supply pipes, the following scheme is followed: on the left is hot water, on the right is cold.

If the sink was removed, then do not forget to connect it back to the sewer by replacing the siphon and inserting a corrugated hose with a sealing collar into the designated outlet of the sewer pipe.

In fact, that’s it, you can turn on the water supply and try the mixer in operation. There is, however, one more subtlety - it is recommended to start by pouring water with the tip removed - the aerator. The fact is that small inclusions can accumulate in pipes, hoses, or even in the mixer itself, which can quickly clog the holes of this nozzle. After several liters of water have drained, the aerator can be easily installed on regular place.

When starting up for the first time, be sure to check all connections for leaks. If there are signs of leakage, these deficiencies must be corrected immediately with a small tightening.

The article discussed the most common ways to install kitchen faucets. However, you may encounter more complex options.

• So, for example, if the faucet spout is a shower head on a retractable hose, then you will have to make another switching and adjustment.

At the bottom there will be a hose (position 1 in the diagram) with or without corrugated braiding, about 1.5 m long, with a fitting at the end. This fitting, after installing the mixer in its regular place, is screwed into the socket intended for it on the body. A sinker is installed on the most flexible hose (position 2) - it will return it to its place and hold it in this position, and at the same time will serve as a limiter on the length of the hose. The position of this sinker can be changed using a locking screw.

• Another option is when the mixer spout has two channels - for regular water supply and for purified water. drinking water. On such models, an additional fitting is provided (item 3) for connecting another hose coming from the system installed under the sink and for post-cleaning.

The mixer for drinking water is turned on using a separate tap or lever (item 4).

There are also more “sophisticated” schemes - with thermostats, autonomous boilers, units placed under the sink electronic control, With mechanical traction associated with the drain plug of the sink bowl, and others. The installation technology in this case should be described in detail in the proposed product data sheet. However, if there are any ambiguities in this matter, you should not engage in amateur activities - it is better to invite a specialist.

Periodically replacing the faucet in the kitchen is a very common phenomenon that almost every resident of our vast country has to deal with. As a rule, the need for this procedure arises due to intensive use in conditions of high rigidity. tap water. The service life of cranes is also affected by the very mediocre quality of devices in the budget price segment.

In any case, if the faucet in the kitchen fails, our compatriots have two options: contact a qualified plumber or replace it yourself. This publication will describe in detail how to change the faucet in the kitchen with your own hands without the involvement of expensive specialists.

Types of Kitchen Faucets

Before starting to replace the faucet in the kitchen, the owner must decide on the choice of the device to be installed, because models can differ significantly in:

• design;
• operating principle;
• installation method;
• manufacturing material.

When choosing the “appearance” of the device, the owner must be guided by his own preferences. It will be very nice if the appearance of the mixer is in harmony with the interior of the entire kitchen space.

The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a device is the installation method. According to this parameter, all kitchen faucets are divided into two types: wall-mounted and table-top. The first ones are most often used to embody brave design ideas luxury interiors. The installation of a tabletop kitchen faucet is carried out directly on the sink panel, which is very convenient when operating and maintaining the device.

There are two types of faucet attachments to the sink:

Types of faucets

Today, modern industry offers three types of mixers:

1. Valve. The design of this type of faucet involves the presence of two faucet boxes with valves that control the temperature and pressure of the flow. Advantages: accessibility, wide the lineup. The disadvantage is the very short service life of the basic structural elements.
2. Single lever. The temperature and water pressure are controlled by changing the position of one lever. Advantages: modern design, ease of operation, variability of choice.
3. Contactless. These are the most modern, functional and expensive devices. To turn on the faucet, you just need to bring your hand to the spout. The main disadvantage of contactless models is their very high cost.

A few words about the material from which modern faucets are made. Stainless steel, silumin, brass, bronze and ceramics can be used in their manufacture.

Silumin models show the shortest service life.

When choosing a kitchen faucet, you should pay attention to the design of the spout, which can be high, low or retractable. Low, convenient in the bathroom, but not in the kitchen. It is difficult to place a large saucepan or kettle under such a “spout” of the faucet. Tall, convenient for everyday use, but in case of strong pressure, be prepared for splashes flying everywhere kitchen space.
Today, the most popular models are faucets with a pull-out spout.

When choosing a faucet for the kitchen, you should pay attention to models whose water jet will precisely hit as close to the center of the sink as possible.

Selecting mixer hoses

Before removing the faucet in the kitchen, it is necessary to dismantle the hoses supplying hot and cold water to the device. The problem is that during operation on them inner surface is formed limescale, which significantly reduces their flow area, which affects the reduction in water pressure in the mixer.

The supply hose fitting is made of soft non-ferrous metal. Dismantling these elements from the tap is often accompanied by a change in the thread geometry, which subsequently leads to a decrease in the tightness of the connection. That is why experts recommend that when installing a new device, complete replacement mixer hoses, given that they are supplied as standard on most models. However, their length most often does not exceed 30 cm, which may not be enough to connect the mixer to, and the quality of these components, as a rule, leaves much to be desired.

When purchasing new hoses, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

• hose length;
• diameter and type of threaded connection to the water supply system;
• fitting length.

The dimensions of the hose must correspond to the distance between the mixer and the connection point with the water supply system.

You should purchase hoses with different fitting lengths for more convenient assembly of the device.

There are options with two types of threaded parts: “male” and “female”.

The standard nut diameter is ½ inch. To connect to the water supply system, “female” type hoses are most often used.

Experts recommend purchasing corrugated flexible hoses made from of stainless steel. They are more reliable, durable and higher cost compared to rubber hoses with metal braid.

In some cases, hoses are not used at all to connect the mixer to the water supply system. Instead, stationary ones are installed metal-plastic pipes.
To connect them to the mixer, specialized fittings are used.

Replacing a kitchen faucet yourself: stages of work

All work on replacing a kitchen faucet can be divided into two stages:

• dismantling the old device;
• installation of a new mixer and connecting it to the water supply system.

The first thing you need to do after purchasing a new device and components is to prepare the tool for work. You may need wrenches and wrenches. Which wrench is needed for the mixer depends on the model and the diameter of the nuts on the hoses. Most often these are open-end wrenches for 10x12, 22x24. For some models, a 10x12 and 12x13 deep stock socket wrench may be useful.

When using a faucet with a stud fastening, you may need an 11-size open-end wrench. If you intend to fasten the faucet to the sink with a clamping nut, then the best option will use an adjustable wrench.

In addition, you may need pliers, a wire brush, flax tow and (or) fluoroplastic tape (fum tape), sealant, rags, and a bucket for draining water from the device. If the plumbing connections are made of metal, it may be necessary to remove rust from the thread grooves. This operation is best carried out with a metal brush.

Removing the old mixer

How to remove a faucet from a sink? Before proceeding with the actual dismantling of the old mixer, you need to perform preparatory work:

1. Turn off the water to the tap.
2. Unscrew the siphon.
3. Unscrew the union nuts of the hoses from the water supply system side.
4. Remove the screws securing the sink to the kitchen cabinet countertop.

Now, the sink with the mixer needs to be turned over for easier access to the mixer mounting system. Next, we’ll look at how to unscrew a faucet from a sink that is secured with a clamping nut.

It's actually simple:

The universal lubricant WD-40 will greatly simplify the process of unscrewing stuck nuts.

Installing a new faucet

1. We insert the faucet body into the mounting hole provided in the sink.
2. We put a gasket on the thread, which comes complete with the new mixer.
3. We tighten the structure with a clamping nut.
4. We screw the supply hoses into the holes of the mixer. This must be done extremely carefully, tightening with a wrench no more than 2 turns of thread.

All that remains is to install the sink on the countertop and secure it with screws at the fastening points, then connect the hoses to the water supply system, being careful not to overtighten the connection to avoid deformation of the gasket.

To ensure tightness, experts recommend applying sealant to the back of the perimeter of the sink.

Before supplying water to the mixer, adjust the position of the device on the sink, and then tighten the clamping nut. Final stage– installing the siphon in its original place and checking the tightness of all connections.

Changing the mixer yourself - video

In any apartment a situation arises when it is necessary to replace the old faucet. Calling a specialist costs money. And you can do this simple job yourself. Connection options are studied in advance before the faucet is installed on the sink. Choose between rigid wiring or flexible wiring. the sink in one way or another depends on the model of the water distribution mechanism.

For example, it is recommended to choose a single-lever kitchen faucet with a high spout. We must not forget about the size of the washbasin. If the washbasin does not match, drops of water will scatter into different sides. The small size of the spout reduces the power of water pressure. For exclusive models, the installation method may differ from standard ones. Each device is supplied with instructions from the manufacturer for its installation.

Not all crane breakdowns require replacing it with a new model. Sometimes it is possible and the device functions well. But there are breakdowns that cannot be repaired.

• A broken faucet does not stop the flow of water. The water in the tap does not shut off in the “closed” position.
• A clogged faucet aerator significantly reduces the water pressure when supplied.
• The service life of a water hose is from 3 to 7 years. It is called an unreliable place, and it breaks and leaks.

• The faucet's attachment to the sink has broken and it's wobbling.

The listed breakdowns can be repaired, but it will be so problematic that it is better to install a new device.

• The housing of the device burst.
• The model simply fell out of favor and seems outdated to the owners.

In this case, repairs will not help at all. A new mechanism is being installed.

Required tools for installation

Prepare the tools for the sink in the bathroom or kitchen:

• Screwdriver Set;
• adjustable wrench (large and small);
• FUM tape;
• set of tubular socket wrenches;
• passages.

Different faucet models are screwed to the sink with different nuts. Therefore, you will need a set of tubular wrenches and adjustable wrenches. This will make it easier to select a tool for the nut of your model. There is no standard for manufacturers regarding the size of nuts. If there is no suitable tubular wrench, you can replace it with an open-end wrench. But then the shell is removed.

• The water distribution mechanism is easier to install and replace later without removing the sink if it is selected with two pins instead of one large nut. Models whose price is average and above average are usually attached with pins. They can be installed and dismantled without disturbing the position of the washbasin.
• A cheap faucet comes with unreliable hoses. It is recommended that you purchase new hoses before installing the faucet on the sink. This will help avoid having to replace them quickly.
• An easy way to choose a reliable faucet is to choose by weight. Several models are selected and their weights are compared. The heaviest mixer will be made of brass. The rest are made of aluminum and its alloys.
• Non-standard models are more difficult to repair, as there may be problems with spare parts. Then only installing a new mechanism will help correct the situation.

Selection of eyeliners

The tap is connected to the water supply system using flexible and rigid connections. They are rigid and easy to install.

The standard length is 86 cm. This is enough so that the hoses do not break. They are laid in a semicircle.

If the kit comes with short eyeliners, 30 cm long, then they will have to be sharpened. Extra connections appear and problem areas for a leak. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately purchase hoses of the required length. The eyeliner should not be stretched.

The compatibility of the mixer materials and connecting hoses is taken into account to prevent corrosion on the elements.

Algorithm for removing an old crane model

• Installing a faucet on a sink begins with shutting off the water supply in the riser. To make sure that it is absent, just open the tap.
• The old device is unscrewed from the hot and cold water pipes. After this it is cleared threaded connection on pipes. If the threaded connections are stuck and they are difficult to unscrew, then the places are pre-treated with kerosene. After 20 minutes the thread unwinds.
• It is recommended to mark the location of the cold and hot flow pipes. Only after this is the eyeliner disconnected.
• The device is secured in place with a nut. It is unscrewed with a small adjustable wrench. Sometimes the mixer is secured with a pin or a pair of pins, onto which nuts are screwed for fixation.

• When the locking nut is unscrewed, the half-washer is removed. The old device is removed through the hole in the sink upwards. The hot and cold water supply hoses are also pulled out alternately.

Installation of a new model

• Before installing the mixer in, the device is assembled. On initial stage a flexible hose is screwed into the mixer. Particular care is taken when working with rubber cuffs. They are located on the eyeliner fittings.
• Before screwing them in, it is recommended to immerse them in water. The mixer is secured at the bottom with stud fasteners. A ring-shaped rubber seal is installed.

• In the sink, hoses with hot and cold water supply are threaded into the hole. After this, the crane is installed in its place.
• A clamping nut under the sink or under the washbasin secures the position of the tap. A rubber gasket is placed between the washer and the sink to prevent leakage. After this, the clamping nut is screwed onto the stud. The mixer takes a more stable position.
• The tap nuts are tightened carefully. After they are fully tightened, the faucet is fixed to the sink.

1 – fastening pin; 2 – hot water supply hose with red streak; 3 – cold water supply hose with blue streaks.

Installation of the new device ends with connecting flexible hoses to the cold and hot water supply pipes. The nuts for supplying the hose are screwed onto the threaded connection of the pipes of the water supply system. The nuts have rubber seals. Therefore, they are twisted without using force so that they are not damaged.

The threaded connection is covered with FUM tape. This seals all connections. After connecting the flexible line, a check is carried out to ensure that the work was done correctly and that there are no leaks in all places where the connection was made. The water supply in the riser opens and the mixer lever is moved to the “open” position. The absence of leakage confirms the correctness of the sink.

The sink mixer is installed in the kitchen and always comes with a swivel spout. The sink faucet is installed in the bathroom, usually on a ceramic or glass sink.
They never install them in the kitchen with a fixed and short spout. Sometimes such a mixer is installed on the side of the bathtub. Some bathtub models (usually acrylic) come with such a faucet as standard. It is also quite suitable for bidets of some models.

As for the sink, where the faucet serves mainly for washing hands and washing, the ease of use of the vast majority of such models leaves (to put it mildly) much to be desired. On sinks with a wide shelf, a stream of water can simply flow along its edge. In this case, it is almost impossible to wash your hands or wash your face normally. On the vast majority of models with a fixed spout, the situation is always close to this.

Often, to “compensate” for the insufficient length of the spout, the consumer installs a mixer with the aerator outlet directed not vertically downward, but at a certain angle. If this mixer is mounted on the side of the bathtub, then this design feature will allow you to easily and simply collect water into basins and buckets, if necessary. However, it should be borne in mind that on a sink with low water pressure this gives practically nothing. And with a large stream it can splash heavily.
A faucet with a swivel spout is much more convenient for any sink. middle length by type of sink mixers. In product invoices and on store price tags, such a faucet is often also described as a kitchen faucet. And this is one of the reasons (perhaps even the main one) why it is rarely placed on the bathroom sink. But such a mixer is not suitable for a kitchen sink - the spout overhang and its height are too small.
In short, we can choose a faucet for a sink according to the same principle as a faucet for a bathtub: a short, fixed spout only for drawing water into it; a longer spout with a rotary spout means we can wash ourselves normally.

Mixer installation.

Since faucets for bathroom sinks and kitchen sinks are “close relatives” of each other, the installation methods for most models are identical. But since there is usually much less free space under the sink shelf than under the kitchen sink, the possibilities for installing faucets intended only for the sink are limited. This is usually one screw (stud) - less often two, a pressure plate with a rubber gasket (usually the same shape) and a nut (nuts). Similar fasteners are the most common for kitchen sink faucets.

Only here sometimes it is highly desirable to have one more part - a special support plastic plate, which is installed between the rubber gasket of the metal pressure plate and the sink body. Of course, for durable monolithic sinks made of cast iron or artificial stone there is no special need for it, but for stainless steel products (especially cheap thin-walled ones) its installation is mandatory. Otherwise, the rigidity of the sink mixer fixation will leave much to be desired. To be more precise, it will swing when working as if on a spring. * If your sink is of this quality and the mixer design does not provide for an intermediate support plate, it makes sense to make it yourself from durable material (for example, thick stainless steel sheet). And it’s better not a flat shape, but an angle, for additional fixation of the support by attaching it to the wall. The water supply to the sink-sink mixer usually comes in two types. This is either a flexible line ("hoses" in a metal braid with fittings), or copper (possibly chrome-plated or nickel-plated) tubes with an outer diameter of 10 mm.

If the length of the supplied flexible mixer hoses is not sufficient to connect to your water pipes, it is possible to replace them with others of the required length. In the store, “hoses” with fittings (specifically for the “Euro” mixer, do not confuse them with the usual ones where the thread diameter of the fitting is 1/2 inch) can be found in almost any length. The rules for choosing such an eyeliner are standard, the main thing is a reliable manufacturer, the presence of an aluminum alloy is extremely undesirable, the service life of the product must be designed for at least 10 years.

Flexible hoses for faucets are usually sold not in pairs, but individually. Keep in mind that the axis of the fittings on a pair of standard hoses from almost any manufacturer (in case of replacement of complete ones) can and should be of different lengths (i.e., two sizes in one pair), on one significantly longer than the other. This is done so that the fitting parts do not interfere with each other during installation. Be sure to pay attention to this when purchasing! And if your mixer is from an expensive and reliable company, replacing standard flexible hoses with purchased ones is hardly advisable. In this case, it would be more correct to increase the water distribution pipes.
The main thing that needs to be checked in the store when buying a mixer is: - the tightness of the lower decorative nut, which secures the entire structure. It is very rare, but sometimes it happens that this is noted by the manufacturer in the device passport. - after you have made sure that the connection is securely tightened (without using a tool, by hand), you should hold the mixer (only by the body, in no case by the adjustment handle) and try to turn its spout in both directions by at least 90° .
If turning is difficult, then you can install such a product only by loosening the bottom nut, otherwise the fixing fastener of the mixer on the sink will quickly become loose and will have to be constantly tightened. Of course, this indicates a deficiency in the manufacturer. It’s even worse if, when the nut is fully tightened, the spout dangles or there is vertical play. This is no longer a defect, but a defect, and you should refrain from purchasing such a product.
- check the water outlet channel for leaks. To do this, you should (with the water supply channel completely blocked - the handle all the way down) pump out the air from the outlet channel, through the mixer aerator. If you don't have a special one on hand vacuum pump with a pressure gauge, then it is quite possible to get by with what nature gave every person, the pump that is always with you. And if the water outlet channel holds the vacuum well, then the likelihood of a leak immediately after installation can be practically eliminated. And if such a check is not done, then it is very likely on a mixer from a not very reliable manufacturer.
In a similar way, the tightness of the outlet channel on a mixer with a rotary spout of any type is checked.

Connecting a flexible line to the mixer.

It would seem that there is nothing complicated about this - on the axis of the fitting of each liner, one or two sealing rubber gaskets are placed in the annular grooves. But for some reason, very few manufacturers of mixers and connections for them are able to correctly calculate the angle of the inlet funnel of the mixer threads and the rigidity of the sealing gaskets.
In general, a torn or partially squeezed out ring gasket of the connection fitting is a common occurrence in such cases for faucets from the vast majority of manufacturers. Our advice is to always apply additional reinforcement to seal the joint with winding material before assembly. Perfect option- plumbing linen (necessarily with “gasketing” sealant) according to our recommendations. Since the threads on the fittings of the eyeliners are very small, very little flax is required; literally 2 - 3 threads. The reliability of such a connection is almost one hundred percent, regardless of the condition of the ring gaskets.

On the vast majority of basin faucets, threaded holes under the fittings of the flexible hoses are located directly on the plane of the mounting surface of the mixer end.
However, on some models they are very deep. Complete connections in such cases can be made with a very long axis of the fitting, for the convenience of gripping the hexagonal mounting point with a regular 10-11mm open-end wrench. Replacing them with store-bought ones is in any case undesirable; it would be more reliable to build up water distribution pipes.
If such a mixer is equipped with “hoses” with standard fittings, then tighten them with a regular key almost impossible (especially the second one). Here you will either need a special tool, or you will have to screw it only to a certain limit by hand directly behind the braid of the eyeliner. In such cases, flax is wound around the fittings in a minimal amount, while the sealant is applied to the maximum.
When tightening the union nuts in this case, it is necessary to pay attention Special attention to ensure that the liner does not turn after it (on the flap of the fitting).
Holding the compression sleeve of the union nut flange with pliers while tightening it, it is useful to lightly (almost imperceptibly to the eye) twist the tube into reverse side(to tighten the fitting).

However, with such an assembly, some (insignificant, approximately 0.1%) risk always remains.

Securing the faucet to the sink

After connecting the flexible hoses, installing the fastening screw(s) and the lower sealing gasket of the mixer (or a decorative intermediate washer with a gasket), we proceed to attaching it to the sink (sink).

We tighten the stud(s) securing the mixer body with a screwdriver (if the stud design allows for such installation). If not, then use a wrench using two “locked” nuts of the required diameter.

If you are installing a faucet on a sink (sink) for the first time, then passing both flexible hoses with union nuts through its hole may at first seem like an impossible task.
Often, in this case, only one liner is placed on the faucet, its nut is passed through the hole in the sink, the second one is passed on the other side (bottom), and only after that it is connected to the faucet.
Of course, there are mixers whose fasteners do not allow you to do otherwise, and even those on which both connections have to be connected from below, but in the case under consideration standard example this is completely unnecessary.
In order not to waste time and spoil anything, we provide photos with explanations of how this is done correctly.

On mixers from some companies, flexible hoses are installed directly at the factory, and their removal during the installation process may not be provided for by the design at all. Union nuts for the connections for ease of installation in such cases often cost significantly less standard size(internal thread diameter is not 1/2 but 3/8 inch).

We assemble the lower fastener, which, in addition to a brass (bronze) nut (nuts) of various diameters, a metal pressure plate and rubber gasket, - for installation on a thin-walled sink, it can be supplemented with an intermediate support plate (usually plastic). Tighten the nut(s) on the studs with an open-end wrench of the required number. The tightness should ensure reliable fixation of the mixer on the sink (sink) when turning the adjusting handle and spout (for models with a swivel spout).

Attention! If you overdo it with tightening, you may damage the ceramic or glass sink, deform the pressure plate, or break the thread of the nut, stud, or installation thread for the stud on the faucet.

It is certainly much easier to attach the faucet to a removed sink (and especially the sink). So if it is installed simultaneously with the sink (sink) or the sink (sink) is easily removed, then you should always fix it first, and only then the sink or sink assembly. Also keep in mind that if the faucet fastener is of poor design (one fastening pin, strongly shifted to the edge and a thin pressure plate), then it will be pressed to the shelf of the sink (sink) at almost one point and reliable fastening will not work. It is even possible that the edge opposite to the fastener will be raised and water will seep into the gap. Reliable crimping of the sealing gasket on the base of the mixer is also difficult to achieve in the case of a small diameter of its end, when the size of the gasket is comparable to the diameter of the installation hole (especially important for ceramic sinks). In such cases it won't hurt additional processing mixer base perimeter silicone sealant- gasket (non-acidic). The gap between the sink shelf and the mixer is coated after it is completely secured, the excess is removed with a dry rag.

Once again, check the reliability and stability of the fasteners, turn the adjustment handle in both directions until it stops, and check the stability of the body when turning the spout (for products with a swivel spout).

connecting the mixer supply to the water pipes

Last technological operation- connecting the mixer supply to the water supply pipes.

Reliable sealing is possible only with suitable water supply threads, high-quality gaskets of the crimp nuts and correct crimping.
As for the wiring thread, it should not have a thin wall or sharp edges (almost all manufacturers of modern fittings for any pipes take this into account, but nevertheless, an additional check will not hurt).

Attention! If the threads of your plumbing are thin-walled or cut on a pipe made of rusting material, it is definitely necessary to install protective tips - plumbing extensions made of stainless metal - between them and the mixer nuts.
The length of the internal thread must be at least 15mm, with a sufficiently thick wall, on a reliable sealing winding.
You should proceed in exactly the same way when extending complete mixer hoses using conventional flexible hoses with standard 1/2-inch fittings. The fittings of such liners almost always have a thin wall with sharp edges.
The reliability of gaskets is determined by their resistance to water high temperature and the duration of the design service life.
It should be noted that rubber is a material (as a rule) far from in the best possible way meeting these conditions. It is very rare that such a gasket can last even 10 years, especially when working with high-temperature water.

In addition, the soft gasket is very sensitive to overtightening of the connection and rotation of the crimping planes relative to each other during the tightening process. Therefore, during assembly, as a rule, you have to hold the lower threaded connection of the water supply with a wrench, and in any case, at the same time, use pliers to press the flange sleeve of the union nut of the mixer inlet (some manufacturers also take this point into account by leaving the flange sleeve small area hexagonal "turnkey" shape).

Only after these points are securely fixed is the union nut tightened (carefully, to a certain limit).
The tightening torque during crimping can vary within quite significant limits (depending on the shape of the flange of the union nut, the wall thickness of the thread of the lower connection, and most importantly, the rigidity of the rubber gasket). On average, the nut is stretched 0.5 - 1 turn, counting from the beginning of crimping. Additional sealing of the connection with winding material is not needed here.

A properly compressed union nut gasket can last the entire estimated service life of the flexible connection without replacement or additional tightening. If, over time, a drip leak does appear (due to violation of the assembly technology or poor quality material is possible), then the gasket should not be tightened, but replaced.

Gaskets for flexible faucet hoses made from special rigid high-tech material are much more reliable.
Such gaskets are not afraid of water at almost any temperature, and if the connection becomes loose during operation for any reason (for example, insufficient traction), they automatically thicken, eliminating the gap and preventing leakage.
However, it is difficult to tighten or damage such a gasket during assembly.
It is not afraid of tightening and turning the crimping planes, and the main thing you should pay attention to is that the flexible line does not become twisted after assembly.

Some faucet manufacturers also take this point into account by building into the body a special rotating mechanism for each connection, which allows it to rotate freely without losing its tightness in any direction without twisting.
In this case, it is almost impossible to damage anything during assembly.
Of course, you can overtighten and break the union nut itself, but this requires a special talent as an assembler. You should not hold the union nut flange crimp sleeve with pliers when tightening it, on such a mixer. On faucets from many companies, the union nuts of the connections for ease of installation are often significantly smaller than the standard size (the diameter of the internal thread is not 1/2 but 3/8 inches). To connect such a faucet to standard external threads of water pipes, special adapter connections with internal thread o1/2" to outer o3/8".
In the absence of special adapters, adapter connections with an o1/2-inch internal thread to an o10mm crimp copper pipe are perfect; you will not need the complete nuts and ferrules for which. At the transition connection to the pipe o12mm external thread exactly the same diameter as the “ten” - 3/8 inch, but the wall thickness is correspondingly much smaller. Therefore, it is not advisable to use them as an adapter, even if the mixer gaskets are made of very high quality material. However, keep in mind that outside diameter connections for a copper pipe o10mm, not every manufacturer of such fittings is equal to 3/8 inch.
Some (possibly to save metal) produce connections with a very thin wall and, accordingly, much finer threads.
Sometimes the desire to increase the reliability of a flexible connection leads to rather original technical solutions.
For example, a flexible faucet connection with a fitting instead of a union nut, which allows you to avoid a gasket connection.

How can such a line be connected to the water supply if, when the fitting is screwed in, it must be unscrewed from the mixer body? There are several here possible ways, each of which was tested at one time.
- The thread of the fitting on the mixer side is left-handed, that is, when the connection is rotated in one direction, both threads are screwed in, in the other they are unscrewed (in approximately the same way, “on nipples with double-sided threads of different directions” assembly is performed sectional radiators heating).
- Calculation for a crimp connection into which the connection fitting is screwed in first. The part is then installed on the pipe and crimped, which does not require turning. In a similar way, such a mixer is connected to polypropylene, soldered pipes. But in this case, the connection after soldering becomes permanent.
- Installation of a rotating mechanism in the mixer body, which allows its connection to rotate freely.

Perhaps there were others technical solutions, but after the invention of rigid self-regulating gaskets, the fitting version of the mixer connection has lost its practical significance and is now almost never used.

IN Lately A flexible corrugated connection for a mixer made entirely of metal (stainless steel or brass) with union nuts, the so-called bellows connection, has become quite widespread. It would seem that the option is ideal, the tube is made of stainless metal and bends easily. But there are also disadvantages here.

Metal. In any case, it bends much worse than a flexible liner, and it is no longer possible to shorten such a tube.

Corrugation. To allow more or less free bending, the wall thickness of the corrugated tube is very small (rarely more than 0.1 - 0.2 mm, for comparison - the thickness of a regular copper mixer tube is 5 - 10 times greater). And this is already a certain risk, especially in cases where the eyeliner is not made of high-quality stainless steel but of a less resistant material. - physics. Due to the small wall thickness, the bellows liner sometimes works like a tuning fork, falling into resonance with the vibration of flowing water.
As a result, unplanned voiceover of the system operation is created, as well as real threat integrity of the structure, so it is often necessary to secure it additionally.

The most reliable mixer connection is an all-metal factory-fitted one.

These are usually annealed copper tubes o10mm securely soldered into its body. The connection of such tubes to the water supply is done in exactly the same way as all crimp connections copper plumbing.
No additional flares, gaskets, or anything else is required - only transition fittings from the water supply outlets to the copper pipe, complete rings and nuts, sealant - gasket.

The use of special collet clamps with rubber or plastic sealing rings is permitted. They leave no marks on copper pipe and often come complete with a mixer. Disassembling such a connection is also much easier. At the same time, the reliability of crimp fasteners with metal rings and sealant is much higher.

Installation of the transition connection (with an o10mm crimp) on your plumbing is carried out either through a plumbing thread, or (if the wiring is made of annealed copper) - also by crimping.

Soldering mixer pipes directly into water distribution pipes (without a detachable connection) is undesirable.
The main disadvantage of a copper faucet connection is its rigidity, which creates certain difficulties during installation (especially in cramped conditions).
In some cases, it is possible to connect such a mixer only with a flexible connection, having previously cut off the copper tubes to the maximum.
Sometimes, for ease of installation, the manufacturer also installs a rotating mechanism for each tube, which greatly simplifies the installation of the connection.

Previous page:

If you need to replace a faucet in the bathroom or kitchen, but have no experience in performing such work, do not despair. This does not mean at all that the task is impossible and you will have to call a plumber. It is enough to carefully study the manual and scrupulously follow all the instructions. Do you agree?

We will tell you in detail how to install a faucet on a sink. Here you will find out what technological features When installing the device, it is necessary to observe what types of sinks are being installed on. The article also lists common mistakes that you should not make. home handyman.

Almost every adult man is able to install a faucet at home. It’s just that you don’t always have similar experience behind you, and sometimes it’s awkward to ask more experienced colleagues.

will come to the rescue detailed process installation, which will eliminate many questions and give confidence in own strength– installation of the mixer is quite simple.

How to prepare for installation?

Before you begin the actual installation, you will need to go through preparatory stage. First you need to carefully inspect the sink if it is already installed in the bathroom. If this kitchen sink, then it still needs to be studied. First of all, you are interested in the number of holes provided by the manufacturer for the future mixer.

Often original bowls The manufacturer completes sinks with a faucet with all the parts necessary for installation. But this is only possible in expensive models, where all the plumbing elements are designed in the same style.

When purchasing a faucet, it is important to check that all parts are included. After all, installation will require nuts, sealing gaskets, flexible or rigid liners. The availability of all components should be paid attention to before purchasing the product.

If the faucet was purchased via the Internet, then, after unpacking the purchase, you should consider everything, study the available parts, instructions and assemble the faucet in the sequence indicated in it

When the mixer the desired model purchased and the size, read the instructions, all that remains is to install it. To do this, you will need tools that it is advisable to prepare before starting work.

These are wrenches and adjustable wrenches, sealing tape, masking tape, a small key, a screwdriver, pliers, a flashlight, a plumbing mixer kit with all components, a piece of soft cloth.

You may need to buy 2 additional hoses if the length of the tubes that come with the mixer is not sufficient. And you will also need a hacksaw for metal if you are going to install a model with a mechanical adjustment.

It is important that everything you need is at hand and nothing distracts you during installation.

If the bathroom has already been in use, then most likely you will first have to remove the old faucet. It is important to do everything extremely carefully so as not to damage the sink if you do not plan to replace it. It is better to line the bottom of the container with a piece of soft cloth to avoid accidental chips and scratches.

Then you need to turn off the water supply taps to the mixer. If there are none, then you will have to turn off the water in the entire apartment/house. Then you need to check this by opening the mixer - if nothing drips, then you can proceed with dismantling.

If you plan to completely change a set of plumbing fixtures, then, naturally, it will be done first. Then you will need to turn off the water supply and lay down soft cloth on the front of the container to protect it from accidental damage.

Description of installation technology

If the preparatory work is carried out correctly, then installing the faucet on a ceramic sink will not take much time - on average it will take about 30 minutes. This is provided that the instructions included in the kit have been read and the mixer itself has been assembled.

Some faucets are sold disassembled - before you begin installing such a model, you will have to assemble it

The easiest way to install a faucet on a ceramic sink is if it is not yet secured to its place of work. When this is not possible, installation may be a little difficult and you will need a flashlight. In places that are difficult to reach, you will need to illuminate them with a flashlight - an assistant will be needed here.

It is important, before purchasing, to measure the expected length from the tap to the water pipes and estimate the length of the supply hoses that come with the mixer

In order to attach the faucet to the sink, you need:

• Using a 10 or 11 wrench, screw the flexible hose to the mixer. You can use a flexible corrugated stainless steel tube.
• Place a rubber or silicone gasket on the base of the faucet.
• Using a key or your hands, screw in 2 studs one at a time. If the model comes with a bushing, then you won’t have to install any studs.
• Insert flexible hoses into the hole in the sink.
• Place the horseshoe-shaped mounting piece on the bottom.
• Place a metal washer of the same shape on top of the gasket.
• Attach a union nut to each of the two studs, tightening with an adjustable wrench or wrench for security.

When tightening the nuts, it is important not to overdo it - the connection may burst and will leak water. If you tighten the nuts loosely, the fastening will dangle and the faucet on the sink will continue to dance from side to side.

Image gallery