Mulberry (mulberry) is one of the unique plants that combines nutritional and medicinal properties fruits The plant has valuable wood, and the leaves serve as food for the silkworm, with the help of which natural silk is created. A deciduous plant reaching up to 15 m in height, it is distributed throughout the world. The plant grows in the subtropical zone of Asia, Africa, North America. And in this article we will talk about the features of growing and caring for mulberries in the Moscow region.

Mulberries attract gardeners because of their healthy, sweet harvest. The fruits of the plant are infructescences of small nuts with fused pericarps. The berries are white, pinkish and purple shades. With special care, mulberries begin to produce crops 3 years after planting.. Larger crops are harvested in 4-5 years.

The mulberry plant is cultivated in the southern regions of the country - in the Krasnodar and Stavropol territories, Astrakhan, Rostov, Volgograd and Nizhny Novgorod regions. Moving north into Lately, mulberry is becoming popular in the Moscow region, Siberia, the Urals and other areas of the middle zone.

Since the duration of daylight hours in the Moscow region is short, the growing season occurs only in spring and autumn. However, thanks to the unique ability to quickly recover, The mulberry plant can withstand Russian winters with temperatures down to -30 degrees. However, this only applies to a few species.

Where to start planting mulberries?

Having decided to plant and propagate such an outlandish plant on your site, first of all, you should select mulberry varieties that are cultivated in your region.

The mulberry plant has 17 species. Every year, breeders develop new varieties of the plant, which number more than 200 subspecies. The most common types include red, black and white mulberries. White mulberry is grown in the temperate zone.

White and black mulberries differ not in the color of the berries, but in the shades of the plant bark. The trunk and branches of the white mulberry are light beige or light yellow. Black mulberry has darker shades of bark.

Equally important is the choice of plant shape. Taking into account cold winters, mulberry is formed into a low-growing tree or shrub. Mulberry green plant often used in landscaping areas in the form of hedges, alleys or alone.

How to choose the right seedling, methods of propagation

Mulberry trees are propagated in several ways.: seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting and young shoots.

Seed growing method They are mainly used by breeders to obtain a rootstock of varietal seedlings. The method is not complicated, but takes a very long time. Seeds are stratified two months before planting. And planting in open ground occurs after two years.

The cuttings produce seedlings with a good root system. However, under normal conditions this method is difficult to implement. Gardeners often resort to the layering method.

Most easy method purchasing mulberry plants - seedlings. When buying mulberry seedlings, it is worth finding out in what area they grew.. For example, seeds or seedlings brought from the south to middle lane will not take root due to the frosty winter. Seedlings grown in your region are more adapted to the local climate.

Mulberry is a dioecious plant with male and female shoots. It is impossible to find out the sex before fruiting. Only 3-5 years after planting do fruits appear on female shoots. Male shoots do not bear fruit. They are used as decoration and landscaping in the garden. Therefore, you should only choose three-year-old seedlings that have already borne fruit.

Choosing a place to plant mulberries

Mulberry loves sunny, windless places. The best option the south side is used to place the mulberry tree. Near a fence or wall of a house, the plant will be protected from drafts and wind.

Important has the soil composition of the land. Loose loamy soils with deep soil are suitable for planting. groundwater. However, the plant can also take root in saline soils. When planting mulberries in empty sandy lands, it is worth additionally creating drainage from a layer of broken bricks. To enrich the soil, mineral fertilizers are applied.

Wetlands and lowlands are detrimental to mulberries. In damp, waterlogged or compacted soil, the plant withers or dies.

Depending on the shape of the mulberry tree, it is worth determining in advance the area of its planting. For bushy mulberry, the distance between seedlings should be 3 m, and for standard form- 5 m.

Rules and technology of planting in spring and autumn

Mulberry seedlings are planted in spring and autumn periods. In spring, mainly in April, planting is done before sap flow begins.. So that the plant has time to take root in the fall, it is planted before the onset of the season of heavy rains and frosts.

It is advisable to plant mulberries in the middle zone in the spring. During summer season young shoots will grow bark and will not die in the first winter.

Seedlings are planted in pre- prepared pits with a depth of half a meter, size 80*80 cm. Place a bucket of compost or humus at the bottom. The straightened, free-lying roots of the seedlings are lowered, covered with earth. To improve rooting, the backfilled soil is mixed with 150 grams of minerals. Water it with water and tamp it down. The sowing of mulberries is completed with mulching, which protects the seedlings from freezing in the winter.

The plant is also planted by seed. At the end of autumn, the seeds are treated with a special solution or in the spring they are subjected to stratification two months before planting. Such preparation is necessary for better seed germination. The seeds are placed in soil 3-5 cm deep. Watered and mulch is laid to prevent freezing.

When planting a plant, the root collar should be deepened a little. Burying mulberry roots, unlike apple or pear trees, does not lead to warming of the bark;
Planting holes are prepared in advance, giving them the opportunity to stand;
Dig pits of such size that the roots could fit freely;
Don't overdo it with fertilizer. Due to overabundance, more shoots will appear;
Thin plant stem tied to a peg or a board previously placed in a hole;
If the soil is heavy, half a wheelbarrow of peat is added to the soil.

By following all planting rules, the plant takes root easily and grows quickly.

Caring for a newly planted seedling

Mulberry is unpretentious in care. If the landing took place in spring period, in the first half of summer, mineral or organic fertilizers and water abundantly. After July, seedlings cannot be fertilized. Also in the second half of summer, watering is carried out as needed, without waterlogging the soil.

During the summer season trunk circle The seedlings are weeded and the ground is loosened. Old dried branches are cut off.

IN summer time young shoots grow quickly. During this period, the plant can be propagated. Cutting off the shoot, divide it into small cuttings of 15-20 cm and plant it in the ground in a greenhouse at an angle of 45 degrees. By fall, the cuttings will have roots and can be planted in the garden next spring.

To preserve mulberries from strong winds and frosts, in the fall the side shoots are tilted to the ground and covered with spunbond. The edges of the spunbond are pressed with stones or bricks, protecting the plant from rodents. Additionally, mulch from pine needles, straw or fallen leaves is added to the tree trunk circle. During the winter, some of the shoots will freeze. However, the mulberry quickly adapts to spring and produces new shoots.

Subsequent care of the seedling, how to trim and shape the crown

Water the plant with the onset of dry weather. Fertilizing is applied once a season. Fertilize the soil with manure, wood ash, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. Insecticides, fungicides and urea 7% are used to control diseases and pests.. Fertilizers are applied during the dormant period - in spring or autumn.

For the winter, mulberries are mulched and covered with flooring. In the spring, the flooring is removed and branches that are weak and damaged over the winter are trimmed.

The mulberry tree develops at a rapid pace in the first few years before fruiting. During this period, the plant skeleton is formed. In April - May, before the onset of sap flow and bud break, formative and rejuvenating pruning is carried out. The crown of the weeping mulberry is thinned out and the branches are shortened. For standard mulberries, it is necessary to form a crown. Young shoots are removed, leaving one bare trunk with a lush spherical or cascading crown. At country houses and personal plots form low plants up to 1.5 - 2 m, cutting off the upper shoots.

Regular mulberry yield occurs in 4-5 years. They accelerate the appearance of fruits with the help of grafting, after which the plant bears fruit in the third year. The berries ripen in July - August. Ripe fruits often fall off. To improve collection, spunbond is laid under the bush.

Mulberries are increasingly being used in summer cottages. The mulberry plant is resistant to mid-latitude climates, quickly takes root and grows intensively. In case of freezing, the plant quickly adapts and produces new shoots. If during the first two years the seedlings take root in a new place, then in the future they will tolerate winters well. By taking care, the mulberries can be passed on to future generations. The age of the plant can reach up to 200 years. And sweet mulberries will benefit the body. After all, the mulberry tree is one of the most useful plants in the world.

Varietal mulberry can be propagated in several ways: seeds, cuttings and grafting. Choose the one that suits you best. Seed propagation Seed propagation is the easiest way to propagate mulberries of any type. It is enough to take a handful of full-fledged ripe fruits of your favorite variety, place them in a container and put them in the sun to sour. Afterwards, rub the seeds well in water with your hands, drain off the raised “cap” of empty seeds. Then pour water again, pass through a fine strainer (the seeds are also small), immediately wipe and rinse the mixture until you obtain clean seeds freed from pulp. Then they need to be dried well, put in a paper bag, and stored in a dry place until spring. 1.5 months before the sowing season, moistened seeds are placed on the top shelf of the refrigerator for stratification. Unstratified seeds are simply kept in water for 3 days. Mulberry seeds are sown in April-May in fertile soil to a depth of 1 cm. Choose a bright place for the bed. Plantings need frequent watering (not flooding). It is important to ensure that the “youth” are not damaged by return spring frosts. Tender shoots are subsequently protected from direct sun. Dense plantings are thinned out at the fifth leaf stage. Unthickened ones are left here until the age of two (for growing). Signs of the mother plant when seed propagation are not transmitted. Such seedlings, as a rule, serve as rootstocks (wildstock) for grafting varietal mulberries. Propagation by green cuttings The best way to propagate mulberries in the summer (good to combine with sanitary pruning) is green cuttings. In June, cuttings with 2-3 buds are cut from the middle part of an intact, healthy herbaceous (soft) shoot of the current year. The lower leaves are removed, and half of the blades are left on the rest for the subsequent life of the cuttings. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 3 cm in a greenhouse (can be improvised on a windowsill) under a light film, where high humidity is created for high-quality rooting. Care - moderate watering, frequent ventilation (increases with growth), fertilizing mineral fertilizers(the first one was a month later). As soon as new shoots appear (after a month), the cuttings have taken root. The resulting seedlings exactly replicate the mother plant. Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings Mulberries are propagated in July by cuttings with wood that is not quite ripe (looks brownish), but is no longer soft. Preparation, planting, care are identical to the actions for green cuttings. The difference is the longer rooting time - here it will last 1.5 months. Propagation by lignified cuttings Here, completely lignified shoots of a healthy varietal productive plant, taken from the outer part of a well-lit crown, are used. The time for harvesting cuttings is the period of leaf fall (before the onset of stable cold weather). Leafless cuttings (18 cm), treated with a root formation stimulator, are planted in a well-prepared open bed so that aboveground part the cutting was approximately 5 cm. At this point they can grow up to two years of age. Next - planting mature seedlings on permanent place. As an option: cuttings harvested in the fall are placed in a moist substrate, kept cool (cellar, refrigerator, buried in the garden bed) until the sap flows (bud awakening), then planted vertically in the garden bed. These cuttings with two developed buds can be used for grafting with cuttings (copulation). Reproduction by top grafting (copulation) Mulberry can be grafted by almost everyone by known methods. Copulation (grafting a cutting with a cutting) is considered easy and successful for amateur gardeners. Top grafting (with cutting off the top of the rootstock) - copulation - can be done indoors in winter or in early spring: cuttings grafted in advance (before sap flow) take root faster. Of the many copulation methods, we will consider two when the rootstocks and scions are in deep dormancy (the bark is not separated). Simple copying. This is when a scion and rootstock of equal thickness have equal (length 4 times greater than the diameter of the cutting) oblique cuts (6 cm by 1.5 cm in diameter) for clear joining of the cambial layers. Sections are made between the kidneys. Having aligned the sections, the junction along the length (without gaps) is covered with a dense bandage made of soft polyethylene. It is important to avoid displacement, otherwise fusion will be much worse. Improved copulation with tongue. The difference between such grafting and simple copulation is that the oblique cuts on the grafted parts are supplemented by parallel cuts (notches), which overlap each other when joined, forming a strong mechanical connection of the tissues of the cuttings. It is done like this: having retreated 1/3 from the end of the cut, on the rootstock down, on the scion up, they begin to make a cut and lead it to half of the oblique cut. As a result, tongue-shaped cuts are formed on oblique cuts of the scion and rootstock - with their help, closer alignment occurs.

How is a tree born? Probably also in agony. A small, fragile sprout makes its way to the light, breaking up the asphalt, pushing apart the stones. An unimaginable thirst for life pushes him upward, towards the Sun. From a small seed a huge tree grows. But mulberries can be propagated not only by seeds. It is also propagated vegetatively: by layering, cuttings, grafting.

Mulberry propagation by seeds

When propagated by seeds, trees often grow that are different from their “parents”. This method is usually used:

In breeding for the development of new varieties.
For the purpose of promotion southern plants on North. Seedlings adapt better to harsher living conditions. By reseeding, the mulberry has already “moved” to such atypical habitats as the Moscow region and St. Petersburg.
For growing rootstocks of varietal seedlings.

This is interesting! Mulberry seeds are able to germinate immediately after collection, that is, they do not need stratification or other additional manipulations.

Mulberry seedling Sowing can be done immediately after harvesting with washed seeds or mashed berries. Shoots appear in the same summer. By autumn, the seedlings reach 10–15 cm. For the winter, it is better to dig them up and place them in the basement for storage, sprinkled with wet sawdust. Can be left in open ground, covered with fallen leaves and dry grass.

You can sow mulberries in the spring. For this:

After harvesting, the berries are kneaded and washed.
The resulting seeds are dried and stored in fabric bags.
In the spring, before sowing, the seeds are soaked in water or a solution of microelements. Duration of soaking from 5 to 24 hours.
Sow in boxes or open ground.

This is interesting! Mulberry seeds are very small (the weight of one thousand is only 1-2.5 g), so they are planted shallowly - 0.5-2 cm.

The mulberry sprouts in about two weeks.

Vegetative propagation

This is the propagation of a plant by its parts, that is, cloning. All new specimens carry the same genetic code and, in fact, are the same organism. They inherit all the properties and characteristics of the mother plant.

Mulberry propagation by layering

For layering, select the lower branch. It is bent and fixed at the surface of the soil, covered with earth. For better rooting, the branch is broken at the bend or the bark ring is removed. This technique stimulates the formation of roots. The operation is carried out in the spring. By autumn, roots form on the cuttings.

Mulberry grafting

The literature indicates that mulberries can be grafted using all known methods and at different times. However, experience shows that spring copulation(grafting with cuttings) and summer budding do not work well on this crop.

Attention! It is best to bud the mulberry in the spring with a sprouting eye. This method gives the highest percentage of eye survival.

Buds are taken from last year's annual shoots. Cuttings are harvested in autumn or early spring. They are stored until budding in the refrigerator or basement at a temperature close to zero. When harvesting in spring, it is important that the branches are not frozen.

Budding is performed using the butt method.
Wrap with plastic tapes or special budding film.
The kidney is left open.
The rootstock is cut off above the eye.
A plastic bag is put on the graft, which is tied below the grafted kidney. This creates a small greenhouse for better fusion of the grafting components.

The operation is carried out from early April to mid-May. Budding of rootstocks planted in spring is allowed. Even hatched buds take root.

The bags are removed from the grafts when the length of the sprouts reaches one centimeter.

Mulberry cuttings

Mulberry propagation by lignified cuttings

Rooting with this method is the lowest of all types of cuttings.

Cuttings are harvested during leaf fall.
Cut them 20–25 cm long.
Then they are kept in a root former solution or dusted with root material.
Placed in plastic bags, which are tightly closed and kept at a temperature of 20–25 degrees.

After about two weeks, callus begins to form in the lower part of the cuttings, and the first roots may appear. When a strip of callus appears, the cuttings are planted in open ground.

Mulberry propagation by green cuttings

Green cuttings are herbaceous shoots that have not yet become woody. They are cut early in the morning, two to three internodes per cutting. The operation is carried out with a sharp knife or blade on a hard surface. Under no circumstances should the leaves be allowed to lose their elasticity. When the cuttings wilt, they suddenly lose their ability to root. Leaves are cut in half. The lower sections are treated with root formation stimulants.

The cuttings are planted in greenhouses in the shade of trees. Rooting is done in sand or a mixture of sand and peat. The distance between cuttings is 5–7 cm.

The air in the greenhouse must be constantly moist. IN large production planting material To maintain the desired level of humidity, artificial fog installations are used. In their absence, the cuttings are sprayed with a spray bottle or watered from a watering can with a fine strainer daily.

Mulberry propagation by semi-lignified cuttings

This cutting method is optimal for mulberries. They can root almost all its varieties.

Unlike green ones, semi-lignified cuttings are more resistant to fungal diseases and are not so demanding on rooting conditions.
Compared to lignified ones, they have a higher percentage of rooting.

Mulberry cuttings are carried out during the period when the shoots begin to become lignified. This is approximately the end of June - the second half of July.

There should be 2–4 buds on the cuttings. The upper cut is made just above the upper bud, the lower one - just below the lower one. Remove all leaves, leaving one or two top ones, cutting them in half. Treated with a root formation stimulator.

The cuttings are planted in greenhouses. To create the desired microclimate, you can cover each cutting separately with a jar or plastic bottle. The rooting substrate is sand or a mixture of sand with peat and soil. Planted obliquely, deepening the cuttings by about one third.

By autumn, rooting occurs. The buds wake up and begin to grow.

The main thing now is to save young trees in winter. To do this, it is better to dig them up with a clod of earth and store them in the basement, occasionally moistening the soil.

You can also leave it to overwinter in the ground, covering it well for the winter. And in next year transplant to a permanent place.

A standard garden on a site consists of the usual fruit and berry trees: apple trees, pears, cherries, plums... Planting mulberries will help to dilute the “Ukrainian set” and please the children. This is a unique plant that can leave a lot of memories of childhood: climbing a tree in search of something tasty, mom screaming because of dark spots on clothes...

A row of white or black mulberries looks great as a colorful border behind a fence. The mulberry tree is an excellent living shield from the neighbors' gaze.

Determining an approximate date

Optimal time for planting mulberries– mid-spring (April) or early autumn (September-October), before the rainy season. Most often, mulberries are planted in the fall; until spring, our climate perfectly tests the plant for resistance to changeable weather conditions. If it survives the winter, it will have another 200 years to live, provided that the owner of the yard does not get tired of the overgrown mulberry.

For lovers of everything extraordinary and also for owners of small areas, planting will suit weeping mulberry. Also held in autumn. The choice of the exact planting date is made by the owner of the yard - as time permits:)

Mulberry planting rules

Before you start planting a mulberry tree, it is important to prepare pits for young growth. It is best to dig holes in advance and give them a chance to stand. The depth of the planting pits is from 70 cm, as long as the straightened root fits freely. Fertilizer is placed at the bottom in the form rotted manure or compost. The flavoring composition is sprinkled on top with a small ball of soil or soil mixed with minerals (optional). Fertilized soil increases the chance of tree survival.

Further planting of mulberry seedlings comes down to standard procedures: carefully insert the young plants into the hole, dig in and water. It would not hurt to tie up a young plant if its column is too thin. To tie the garter, drive a stake into the dug pit in advance using a sledgehammer (excellent a board will do 5 cm thick).

The technology for planting mulberry seedlings is simple. This just begs the question: where to get the young animals? The answer is simple. There are two options here: grow it yourself or buy it on the market.

There are two ways to produce mulberry seedlings at home: grow a tree from seeds or try to germinate cuttings. And now, in order:

Planting mulberry seeds. This is a rather lengthy process, but effective. Seeds require stratification for several months at a temperature of 0...+5°C. “Seeds” that have overwintered in the refrigerator perform well. Sowing is done in a greenhouse in mid-April. Planting mulberries this way will give results in the fall; the sprouts will reach 40 cm in height. It is better to plant seedlings for permanent residence after 1-2 years.
Planting mulberry cuttings. Less effective method extraction of planting material (average survival rate 10-20% depending on the conditions created). Leaves are cut in half from shoots about 15 cm long, after which the “branches” are lowered into water for 10-12 hours. Next, planting mulberries involves moving the cuttings into a special soil (a mixture of earth, peat and sand in a 2:1:1 ratio). To obtain full-fledged seedlings, it is important to maintain the temperature within +22...+30°C, and acceptable humidity - from 95%.

The original shape of the mulberry (spherical, weeping) is achieved exclusively by grafting this variety onto the trunk of another plant. It is not possible to obtain a ready-made seedling from seeds or cuttings.

We will be happy to plant mulberries for you. Our experienced employees will not only be happy to give you their labor, but will also take on the task of digging through manure and compost. In addition, gardeners many years of experience works will help to plant any cutting so that it takes root with a 100% probability.

The main mistakes of amateur gardeners

Planting and growing mulberries is a great option for lazy people :) The tree does not require special care and can grow almost like a weed. But there are times when the owner of a mulberry ceases to enjoy his miracle tree: it bears fruit poorly, fades, or even does not bear berries at all. This is due to the mistakes of a novice gardener.

Let's look at the main failures in mulberry planting and let's try to avoid them:

Morus ( Mulberry tree) is a sun-loving plant. Don't skimp on space and give it a place with good lighting.
If mulberries are planted on waterlogged or saline soil, the plant is unlikely to germinate quickly and bear fruit. Dry sandy soil suitable only with constant application of mineral fertilizers.
The plant has two sexes. Of course, the male one does not bear fruit. You will be able to find out how “female” your tree is only after 4-5 years, when the first berries appear (or not). Therefore, when growing your own seedling, you need to be prepared for disappointment in the future. To get fruit from the very beginning, it is better to purchase a young plant that has already produced its first vitamin-rich offspring.

And remember: planting mulberries guarantees a supply of berries for an entire generation. After all, a mulberry tree can live up to 300 years, depending on the variety. We wish that your plant is accepted and turns out to be a woman! :)

Planting mulberry video

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