If you decide to update appearance to decorate your home quickly, efficiently and for a long time, then you will certainly choose the now popular material - siding. It has many advantages, but the main ones are quick installation, durability and low maintenance.

In addition, together with it you can insulate the house, and you will not need to paint it every couple of years, unlike other materials. Today we will tell you the facade of a house made of metal siding.

Differences between metal siding

Siding panels have several types:

• Metal;
• Vinyl;
• Cement;
• Wooden;
• Basement.

In turn, metal siding can be made of aluminum or steel, with a width of 100 to 300 mm.

It is a profiled panel with a painted or polymer coating.

• Polymer panels are more practical, but they have little choice flowers, and their price is more expensive.
• The surface is coated with anti-corrosion varnish, which increases its wear resistance.
• The texture of the material can be smooth or embossed.
• The service life of metal siding is more than 50 years, which can be compared with cement siding. Other types are less durable: wood will last you about 15 years, vinyl - from 20 to 50.
• Unlike wood, metal does not burn or rot, and is also highly resistant to acids and alkalis.
• The sun's rays will not spoil the walls after a few years, the shape will remain the same, and the color will not fade and will be just as bright.
• Metal panels are much stronger than vinyl.

That is why cladding with metal siding is popular on facades with high demands and loads: shops, shopping centers, gas stations, factories.

However, this material also has its drawbacks: dents remain on it and it is easy to damage during installation - thin layer The paint falls off and corrosion begins.

Material calculation

Before you start purchasing material, you need to decide on its quantity. In order to correctly calculate required amount siding, draw up a sketch of your house while maintaining the proportions. Then divide the surface of the walls into geometric shapes.

The calculation instructions will look something like this:

1. Separately calculate the area of ​​walls, windows and doors;
2. From general meaning take away the area of ​​openings that do not need to be sheathed;
3. To calculate the components, calculate the total perimeter of the house;
4. Calculate the length of cornices and pediments;
5. Add up the length of all corners, separately for internal and external ones;
6. Calculate the perimeter of window and doorways.

In accordance with your calculations, purchase siding and components for its fastening, which are shown in the photo. Also, don’t forget to buy drainage systems for window sills and eaves.

Advice!
When purchasing material, take it with a reserve so as not to use small scraps and not buy more later. Please note that the shades of siding and fasteners may vary slightly between batches.

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to free the facade from unnecessary parts. Remove all antennas, gutters, trim and window sills.

Carefully inspect the surface of the facade for the presence of crumbling plaster and cracks; to do this, tap it. Cracks must be repaired with cement mortar.

If the facade of the house is made of wood, replace the bad boards and nail them down. To stop the wood from rotting in the future, treat the facade with a primer and antiseptic.

Required Tools

Without this set of tools, attaching metal siding to the facade with your own hands will be problematic, so if you don’t have much of this, perhaps hiring workers will be a profitable solution.

• To cut profiles and planks you will need a grinder, a circular saw or metal scissors.
• For measuring work You must have a level, plumb line, square and tape measure.
• When creating a frame, you will need a hammer drill or drill and a hammer.

• To work at height you will need scaffolding. You can make them yourself or rent them.
• It is also necessary to ensure safe work, so wear safety glasses and gloves.

Lathing

It is important to install the frame as accurately as possible, since the subsequent evenness of the walls directly depends on this stage.

• Mark the walls using a long level. The distance between the cells of the frame should be 60-100 centimeters.
  Please note that it is necessary to leave a technological gap for ventilation of the facade between the insulation and the cladding. It should be 4-10 centimeters wide.
• To attach metal siding, it is recommended to use galvanized profiles, since wood can withstand less load and deteriorates faster.
• Secure them to the wall using leveling brackets and screws. It is also necessary to secure them around the perimeter of the door and window openings and at the joints of panels.

Note!
If the length of 1 profile is not enough, the vertical guides should not be connected to each other.
There should be a 10 mm technological gap between them. For rigidity, you can connect the vertical profiles with horizontal jumpers.
They are fastened with an overlap, for which the side walls on the jumpers are cut off.

Working with insulation

House cladding metal siding often accompanied by insulation of the building. External insulation walls most profitable solution, as it allows you to significantly reduce the thickness load-bearing walls, and does not steal space inside the house.

To do this, the insulation layer is tightly attached to the facade using disc-shaped dowels (umbrellas). For each square meter you need to hammer in at least 5 dowels, and at the corners - 12 pieces.

It is recommended to use insulation under siding with a density of at least 80-100 kg per cubic meter. Its thickness is determined by calculation, but if it exceeds 15 cm, then it must be applied in 2 layers. For the Moscow region, an insulation thickness of 10 cm is usually used.

In order to protect the insulation from moisture and weathering, a windproof membrane is stapled on top of it.

Related articles:

Fastening panels

• After installing the insulation under the siding, we attach the components and basement drains, because this will be inconvenient to do later.
• The starting bar is installed at the bottom in a horizontal position. At the top is the final one.

• At corners and at joints, you need to install corner profiles and flashings that will hide the ends of the siding panels.
• It is highly advisable to protect the interior of the façade from rain and snow. To do this, a universal seal is glued onto the frame at the corners, around windows and doors, which is then pressed against the siding.
• If the house is faced with metal siding in a horizontal position, then the fastening begins from the bottom up from the corner of the house.
• The first panel is attached to the starting bar. Insert the panel tightly into the plank and secure the top edge with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. Fastening should occur in the center of the perforated holes. The edges should be inside corner profiles or flashings.

Note!
To prevent the siding panels from rattling from the wind after installation, do not screw in the screws too much. Loosen them to provide room for thermal deformation.
It is also important to leave ventilation gap 5-10 mm between the edges of the panel and vertical elements. The starting and finishing strips should not be fastened closely, but with a gap of 5 mm to each other.

• All subsequent panels are attached in the same way to each other and fixed from above.

• To frame the windows, a slope strip, aquilon and platband are used. A window drainage system is installed on the windowsill.
  When installing the edging, you must first install the bottom parts, and then the side parts.
• To fit the siding around the window, try on the panel and make marks, with a margin of 5-10 mm. Make vertical cuts along them. To mark the horizontal location of the cut, secure a short piece of panel under the window and make marks along two edges, leaving 5 mm for margin. Transfer the line to the full panel and cut it with tin snips.
• To secure the last panel, cut it to required width and insert it inside. On one side it will be held in place by siding, on the other by a finishing strip. You can also use a regular corner or top ebb, securing them with self-tapping screws on the visible side.

Vertical siding fastening

Vertical fastening of the panels occurs in exactly the same way, only in this case it is necessary to change the structure of the sheathing. It is imperative to use horizontal and vertical guides. The distance between horizontal cell profiles should be from 80 to 100 cm, and between vertical ones - 100-150 cm.

A horizontally located panel is used as a starting panel. corner strip or starting.

It is worth noting that with this method of fastening, the consumption of materials will increase due to a more complex frame.

We invite you to watch detailed video installation of metal siding on the facade:

Conclusion

In this article, we described in detail how to cover a house with metal siding. If you have already dealt with other types of this material, you should be able to install it without any problems. The use of this material will transform the facade of any old house, make it warmer and hide imperfections.

Today it is very fashionable to decorate building facades with metal siding. There are several reasons for the popularity of this finish: the strength and durability of the material; ease of installation; the ability to create an imitation of any surface.

Varieties

There are several types of metal siding:

• basement;
• façade;
• ceiling;
• vertical (panels are installed vertically);
• metal siding with insulation. This siding panel has several layers: decorative coating, metal base, one or more layers thermal insulation material And protective layer. A building finished with such material does not require additional insulation.

Application area

Metal siding is widely used for finishing building facades, plinths and eaves of roofs, as well as ceilings.

Despite the “heavy” name, metal siding is a lightweight finishing material

Facade siding It is used only for finishing external walls.
Basement siding differs from the usual in moisture resistance and a darker shade and is used for finishing the lower part of the building (basement).
Finishing of roof eaves, as well as open terraces and balconies is carried out using perforated siding, the panels of which have slots for better air circulation. The second name for perforated siding is soffit.
Ceiling siding used for finishing ceilings in both indoor and outdoor spaces (gazebos, garages, terraces).

Types and coating of panels

Based on the material of manufacture, they are distinguished:

• aluminum siding. This type used for cladding offices, residential buildings and industrial buildings. The light weight of aluminum panels (1700 grams per square meter) makes it possible to use aluminum siding for finishing multi-story buildings;
• steel siding. Most often, galvanized steel with a coating applied to the surface is used for its manufacture. protective coating made of polyester, pural or plastisol. Another coating option is possible - applying coloring powder. This method allows you to obtain panels of various shades.

Metal siding can imitate many surfaces:

• under a tree (timber);
• under a stone;
• under clinker brick;
• under a rounded log;
• under the ship's plank.

By invoice distinguish between smooth siding, which does not have any protrusions on the surface and rolling siding imitating the texture of natural wood or stone. In terms of cost, smooth panels do not differ from rolled panels, but finishing with textured siding looks much more aesthetically pleasing.
The following materials can be used to cover the panels:

• polyester- one of the popular coatings, available in different shades. The only negative is instability to mechanical damage;
• matte polyester– has a greater coating thickness than regular polyester, does not shine, due to which its surface looks “velvety”;
• plastisol– has a matte surface and is highly resistant to mechanical damage. But if the material is damaged, it will be very difficult to restore it;
• polyurethane coating– its thickness is 50 microns, which is twice the thickness of polyester. The material can withstand heating up to 120 degrees;
• Printech- a drawing made by photo printing. It has many shades and can imitate various surfaces.

Dimensions, shape and color palette

Dimensions metal sheets siding depends on the type. Thickness (wave height) steel profile panels range from 4 to 20 mm. The length of the panels is 500-6000 mm, width 200-260 mm, and the installation width is slightly larger than the overall width, and weight of one square meter– 2.4-3.5 kg. The edge of the panel has a height of 18 mm.

When purchasing Ruukki products, you will need a color conversion table, which can be found on the Internet.

The panels also differ in shape. Shipboard siding consists of two waves and a lock. This type is usually used for cladding large areas, because due to the large width, the number of mounted profiles is reduced.
Panels of the “M” and “W” types are also popular, having a lock on one side and an overlap on the other. The direction of the ends of these profiles resembles the letter “M” or “W”.
When purchasing, the seller usually offers profiles of those shades that are in stock. To determine the color, the Ral palette encoding is used. Here all shades are numbered, which allows you to easily purchase additional profiles and components of the required shade if necessary in the future. The most popular siding shades are:

• 3005 – cherry;
• 3011 – bright red;
• 5005 – blue;
• 6002 – young grass;
• 6005 – green;
• 6020 – swamp;
• 7004 – gray;
• 8017 – brown;
• 9003 – white;
• 9006 – silver.

A similar coding is used by most metal siding manufacturers. An exception is the Finnish company Ruukki, which uses its own color table.

Performance characteristics

Metal siding is more durable than its vinyl counterpart. This allows metal finish withstand strong mechanical loads (impacts from branches, damage during installation, etc.).
Also metal panels can withstand temperature fluctuations ranging from -30 to +70 degrees. The disadvantage is the high thermal conductivity of metal siding.

Stages of installing metal siding

Installation of metal sidedig consists of several stages:

• installation of sheathing. It is made of metal or wooden profiles a width of at least 5 cm. When cladding tall buildings, a version of metal lathing for siding is used. When installing siding profiles horizontally, it is necessary that the guide battens be installed in a vertical position. A vertical installation provides for a horizontal position of the sheathing guides. The distance between the guides must be at least 50 cm. The taller the building and stronger design, those smaller step lathing;
• laying insulation and waterproofing. Insulation material (most often it is used mineral wool) is cut into pieces and placed in each cell of the sheathing. The size of the pieces must strictly correspond to the dimensions of the cell or slightly exceed them. This is necessary for more dense installation of the insulation. Next it is attached waterproofing film, which should neither sag nor be fastened with great tension. TO wooden frame the film can be pinned with a stapler; the film is attached to iron profiles using dowel nails;
• fastening of facing profiles. They are attached from the bottom up. The starting bar is attached at a distance of 5 cm from the ground. Drain strips are first installed above the windows, doors and base. Next, the profiles themselves are attached using self-tapping screws. The last profile is fastened with force and must fit into the lock along its entire length.

When working with siding at height, follow safety precautions!

Pros and cons of the material

Metal cladding has the following advantages:

• strength. Unlike its vinyl counterpart, metal siding is not susceptible to strong mechanical loads;
• durability to temperature changes. Metal profiles have a lower coefficient of expansion than vinyl ones, which means they will not crack from cold or bend from heat;
• wide palette of shades. On the market you can find options that imitate natural materials(timber, log, stone, brick) and siding of bright colors (from red and green to black or pure white);
• fire safety material;
• environmental friendliness– even with strong heating, metal profiles will not emit harmful compounds;
• ease of installation;
• easy care– metal profiles have an absolutely smooth surface, which always looks fresh and shiny, and, if necessary, can be easily washed with a stream of water from a hose.

But metal siding also has disadvantages, including higher price and weight compared to vinyl analogue. And metal profiles do not allow air to pass through at all, which is why in hot weather the room will become stuffy and a greenhouse effect will occur.
The disadvantages of metal siding include the fact that if you damage the coating, then the chipped area will gradually become covered with rust. The only solution here is to replace the damaged profile.

Prices

The cost of metal siding depends on the material from which it is made and the type of coating. At the same time, aluminum siding will cost less than steel, where the cost directly depends on the thickness of the steel. The price of 1 square meter of metal siding ranges from 300 rubles and above. The most expensive components are corners (the cost of one piece is almost equal to the cost of a square meter of siding) and starting strips, which are sold individually. You can buy components in the same place where they sell metal siding.

About the installation of metal siding in detail in this video:

Today, covering a house with metal siding is one of the popular methods of finishing the facade. He has an undeniable advantage over others facade materials by cost, for example.

When purchasing it to decorate a building, consumers often do not know how to cover a house with metal siding with their own hands.

Basic material parameters

Metal siding is facing material made from galvanized iron sheets. These are lightweight steel panels covered with a polymer film various colors and shades. Metal siding is used to cover the house.

Note! The sheets of material are equipped with special grooves for joining when laying the panels vertically on top of each other. Therefore, the screw heads close well from the outside and make the façade aesthetically attractive.

The material is available in the following sizes:

• The planks have a full width of 211 mm, and a useful width of 188 mm.
• The manufacturer offers strips 0.5-6 meters long.

Calculation of material quantity

Instructions for covering a house with metal siding include methods for calculating the amount of material depending on the complexity of the structure:

• Siding has certain geometric dimensions; it can be calculated with an accuracy of 1 m² (see).
• It is more convenient to make a schematic drawing of the house and put all the dimensions on it (height, width of walls, window, door openings).
• Before covering the walls with metal siding, it is necessary to determine the area of ​​the building that is planned to be covered with panels.

As a rule, calculations are performed using the formula:

• S total = S walls - S openings.
• It is good to draw up a diagram that will indicate the exact location of the strips of material on each wall of the house.

Advice. The use of such sketches allows you to perform calculations more accurately, as well as obtain an installation diagram.

• It is convenient to use when covering a house with metal siding yourself.

Based on the sketch of the house with the arrangement of the panels, you can calculate the number of panels = H/S of one panel (H is the height of the building).

Calculation of the number of components

Exist different variants covering the house with metal siding, with different quantities components:

Name	Purpose	Interchangeability	Calculation method
Start and finish lines.	It is used to fasten the bottom row of panels, and the finishing one is used to complete the mounted surface.	A lock is cut off from the panel and installed as a starting strip. The remaining strip is mounted as the final strip.	The length of the perimeter of the house (in linear meters) is divided by the length of one plank and the quantity in pieces is obtained.
External and internal corners.	Sheathing metal walls siding involves using them to decorate the corners of the building.		It is recommended to count the corners one by one (the places where they connect are visible, it is better to avoid this). Basically, the number of corners of the house is multiplied by their height, and the result is divided by the length of the profile.
J-profile.	Installed as the end of a plane, it should usually cover vertical ends (windows, doors) and diagonal ends (pediments).	Can replace finishing strip.	Calculated in linear meters, to obtain the quantity, this value is divided by the length of the profile.
H-profile.	Used to connect siding panels.	Wall cladding with metal siding can be done without joints (the length of the panels is selected according to the width of the wall).	Piece by piece.
Window profile.	Installed if door or window openings are recessed deeper than 20 mm.	J – profile, if its width is sufficient.	Piece by piece.
Platband.	Used for finishing openings.	A house can be sheathed with metal siding using a J-profile.	Piece by piece.

Types of material

A fairly wide range of colors and textures of metal siding is offered for sale:

• There is a material that makes it possible to decorate the facade “like wood” (see), perform an imitation of rounded timber.
• May be considered various options covering houses with metal siding. For example, when finishing, use a material with a protective and decorative coating to resemble a log.
• This siding is distinguished by a layer that imitates wood texture and color. Thus, the sheathed house becomes like a log house.

Note! An important point is that when finishing natural wood it is necessary to further strengthen the foundation.

Siding stylized as wood or stone (see) with all fastening elements weighs so little that the load of the skin itself can be ignored. In addition to weight, this material has a number of advantages.

Main advantages

Metal siding is characterized by:

• Quick and easy DIY installation technology.
• High strength and practicality (does not fade, does not burn, does not rust).
• Durability (will last at least 50 years).
• Wide operating temperature range (in the range -50°С ... +50°С).
• Many are attracted by the price of the material, but its use also has other positive aspects. For example, they are convenient for finishing houses with complex geometry.
• Metal siding is used for. Insulation is placed under the material and additional heat and sound insulation is created.

Facade cladding with metal siding can be done on newly erected walls, and work can be carried out in any season of the year.

Installation Guide

On external walls install the frame - the foundation of the future facade. More often used metallic profile, sometimes - a wooden beam.

So:

• The sheathing is vertically leveled in increments of about 500 mm.
• Sheathing a house with metal siding begins with attaching the lower horizontal row of planks and continues with the installation of subsequent rows.
• Metal siding is attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws screwed into the center of a special mounting hole.

Advice. It is necessary to leave a gap of about 1 mm between the strip and the fastener, then change temperature regime will not lead to deformation of the material.

The whole process can be divided into stages:

• Surface preparation.
• Marking.
• Installation of brackets.
• Thermal insulation.
• Installation of profiles and other elements.
• Siding fastening.

Step by step guide

Operations must be performed in exactly this sequence. To avoid any difficulties, it is recommended to watch the video in this article before starting work.

Advice. On preparatory stage Be sure to remove everything from the façade of the building that may interfere with the cladding process (antennas, drains, etc.). Removed old finish façade and any surface defects are corrected.

• Markings are applied to the façade. It is necessary to outline the areas of the surface to be sheathed, taking into account the order of work. You also need to indicate the position of the fasteners with the installation of beacons.
• Next, you need to mark the mounting locations of the brackets in increments of 0.5 m (horizontally) and 0.8 m (vertically).

Before the house is sheathed with metal siding, brackets are installed according to the finished markings. Why drill holes with a diameter for which dowels or anchor nails will be used.

Working with brackets

The brackets are mounted on an isolon gasket. IN different conditions Different lengths of brackets and fasteners are used.

At uneven surface at home (by level), brackets are selected as follows:

• When attaching the brackets at the lowest level, they should extend beyond the limits. For example, there is a significant depression on the surface. Then a bracket is installed, the size of which is 2-3 cm larger.
• Before sheathing the house with metal-plastic, the insulation is tightly butted together. When choosing the thickness of the material, the climatic conditions of the area are taken into account. To install the slabs, disc-shaped nails are used to ensure reliable fixation of the insulation.

They are made of 2 parts:

• Plastic dowel with a wide head.
• Metal rod.

The number of fastening elements is taken at 6-7 pieces/m² of insulation, to protect which a vapor-permeable membrane is used. It is fixed with an overlap of 10 cm.

Installation of guides

They are secured to the brackets with 4.8x28 mm screws or rivets.

Advice. After this, the finishing plane must be adjusted by changing the length of the brackets within 3 cm (use the appropriate instructions).

The remaining structural elements are also installed:

• Drain fastenings.
• Guides and slope strips.
• Corner connections.

Let's take a closer look:

• The base drain with a guide strip is attached to the vertical profiles with 4.2x16 mm self-tapping screws. The horizontal position of the siding must be checked with a level.
• Sheathing a house with metal siding begins with laying the first row of planks, installed to the starting plank. The upper edge of the material is attached to the guide profiles with self-tapping screws.
• Subsequent rows are secured in a similar way: they are placed one on top of the other.
• When working, it is regularly necessary to check the horizontality of the slats with a level. Recommendations on how to properly sheathe a house with metal-plastic draw attention to the fact that the planks should not be attached too tightly to the frame.
• When temperatures fluctuate, the dimensions of the plates change, which can lead to serious deformation of the entire system.

Finally, the last row adjacent to the roof is attached using shaped elements with special strips. You can compare the result with photos of warm and beautiful facades.

Wall cladding with metal siding is quite relevant nowadays. This material can be found quite often.
Today we will tell you how to do it external cladding wall surfaces with metal siding. This work can be completely done with your own hands and then the price of the entire structure will be significantly lower.
will be given complete instructions For correct execution this work.

Cladding with metal siding has many advantages that set it apart from other materials.
Let's take a look at its advantages:

• Wall cladding with metal siding allows you to avoid leveling the base plane. And this reduces work costs. It will be enough to simply clean the surface;
• Covering the surface with metal siding is an environmentally friendly design that will not harm your health. Tolerates temperature changes and high humidity;
• You can immediately insulate walls with metal siding. In this case, almost any layer of insulation can be installed. This should only be decided at the initial stage of construction;
• The cladding can also be done with vertical metal siding. It all depends on your desire. Although such an installation is not recommended. It’s just that water can penetrate under the panels at the joints;
• The price of this material is not high. Therefore, a person of almost any income can afford it;

Attention: If you do the work yourself, then the metal siding technology must be performed flawlessly. Otherwise, the structure will not last long.

Siding installation

So, let's move directly to the question of how to cover the surface of walls with metal siding. This work can be divided into several stages in a certain sequence. And each of these stages is quite important.

Calculation of the number of siding panels

Before purchasing material, it must be calculated correctly. And it should be taken into account that during work there will be waste and it will amount to at least 10 percent.
So:

• Buy panels in lengths that exceed the length of the building - six meters. Their area is 1.37 square meters. m, and the width is 0.229 m.

Attention: You need to make a drawing diagram, where you will need to indicate all the dimensions of the building and depict each wall of the facade. Based on this drawing, you need to understand which panels should be placed where, and how to advantageously place the trimmed parts.

• In calculations, you need to take into account the entire area of ​​walls, door and window openings. It is also necessary to calculate the area of ​​the gables and the number of trims for finishing, the number of metal profiles for constructing the sheathing and the number of screws.

Tool for facing facade with siding

To work you will need to prepare:

• Metal ruler;
• Hammer;
• Metal square;
• A jigsaw or hacksaw for metal and a saw with fine teeth;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Metal scissors, awl, pliers, cutter knife, plumb line;
• Level 60 cm, chalk, rope and carpenter's pencil.

Preparation and marking

This important point before starting work. The configuration at the end of the work will completely depend on the correct marking.

So:

• To install siding sheathing, there is no need to clean the walls from the previous finish (plaster, paint, etc.), but you should remove climbing plants, tree branches that will interfere with work.
• Need to get rid of drainpipes, façade lights, need to be removed wind boards and shutters, remove the trim between the foundation and the wall, remove the exterior window sill, trim strips around windows and doors, gutters and corner boards.
• If there is mold and rot on the old facade, it should be removed and the walls should be treated with an antiseptic. The remaining boards and panels should be nailed down.
  Then, using a plumb line or level, you will need to measure the evenness of the old walls, and, in addition, the verticality of the level of doorways and window frames. All distortions are eliminated, if possible;
• We determine the beginning of the fastening. We need a straight line along the bottom of the building. To do this, we put a mark and then transfer it to other walls. To do this, we use a hydraulic level. With its help this work can be done most correctly;
• Now we take a nylon thread and simply beat off a line, connecting all the marks.

Frame installation

If it is impossible to screw the siding directly to the facade material due to the curvature of its surface or dilapidation, then a metal profile sheathing should be installed.

Currently, metal siding is gaining great popularity due to the fact that it is a material that can provide a reliable, durable and wear-resistant exterior coating for the home. One of the most prominent representatives of this trend, due to its natural and aesthetic appearance, is considered to be products that imitate logs. Having high levels of resistance to possible influences external environment, the presented material does not require regular maintenance.

The relevance of using such a product, among other things, is due to its accessibility and ease of installation. In this article we will tell you how to install metal siding with your own hands (under timber, logs), we will give step by step instructions, and also demonstrate diagrams, photos and videos.

Production

The material itself is made from processed polymer composition galvanized steel sheets simulating a calibrated log. The production of such products is based on applying a pattern to the profile using the “Printtech” technology (photo offset), which provides a realistic, as close as possible appearance of a natural painted tree trunk. Metal siding on the market is replete with its color scheme and is sold in rolls with a sheet width of 188 mm, profile height of 31 mm and length from 80 to 800 cm.

Any construction operation and type of material involves the use of individual instrument and components. In our case, to implement our plans, we will need to prepare the following tools and devices:

• galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• dowel-nails;
• building level and tape measure;
• grinder or metal scissors;
• screwdriver or drill with a set of bits and drills;
• ladder.

An important aesthetic function in finishing a house with metal siding is played by additional details: internal and outer corners, slopes, connecting strips, starting and finishing guides, the use of which allows you to give the structure overall completeness and a neat appearance.

Each person before performing construction work It will be useful to study concepts such as installation instructions and practical advice professional craftsmen, on the basis of which step-by-step assembly will be carried out in the future.

In order to begin installing metal siding, first of all, it is necessary to analyze the surface on which subsequent fastening will be carried out, and make sure of its strength and reliability. The implementation of the task is achieved through a visual inspection of the walls for the presence of foreign objects, mold or peeling layers of plaster, if detected, they should be removed and finished.

Otherwise, poor preparation finishing surface may contribute to further deformation of the sheets and their destruction, which will entail repairs and financial costs.

Having decided on the material, before fixing the brackets, you should clean the walls and apply markings on them. Initially, using a broom or broom, you need to sweep away any remaining dust and dirt from the future surface. At the same time, to simplify access, it would be useful to use a stepladder or scaffolding. In addition, the presented devices will be useful in the future, when installing facing sheets.

Having finished with this activity, you must draw out the future surface with horizontal and vertical lines at a distance of 50–70 cm relative to each other, and the intersection points of these guides will subsequently become the locations of the brackets.

Correct marking is the key to a durable and even finish, so its application should be approached with special care, not forgetting to use building level and measure the same intervals each time.

Placing bracket supports

Installation of brackets is carried out along the perimeter of the entire surface from bottom to top, taking into account a number of important points:

• Fastening is carried out depending on the type of surface to be finished using 40 mm self-tapping screws or anchor bolts;
• let's start placement connecting strips– as a rule, these products consist of perforated metal sheets containing through cuts of given sizes and located in a certain sequence; in our case, since it is planned to place metal siding under the log, we place the guide profiles vertically and attach them to the brackets using 4.2 × 16 mm self-tapping screws;
• the guides are installed in such a way that there is a gap of at least 10 mm between them;
• We additionally install guide strips around the perimeter of windows and doors;
• At the corners of the structure, installation of the profile is carried out taking into account the subsequent fixation of the corner strips.

Definitely an alternative metal brackets can perform with ease wooden blocks, the cost of which is several times less, but metal products have a number of significant advantages that eliminate subsequent surface deformation and ensure reliable operation.

In the option of placing siding with insulation, slabs of selected materials are placed close to each other without additional gaps. If several layers of the protective layer are made, the slabs are installed with joints spaced apart. WITH outside A windproof membrane film is placed and all layers are fastened using disc-shaped dowel-nails. When installing this element, it is important to maintain the distance between the insulation and the siding, which should be within 25–30 mm.

Another insulation option - basalt wool. This material is available in rolls, which greatly simplifies the installation procedure. In addition, unlike foam plastic, which is the cheapest type of insulation, basalt raw materials allow the surface to “breathe”, providing the necessary ventilation.

This material is especially relevant for finishing wooden house, since it is wood that needs regular ventilation to avoid the appearance of snails, mold and mildew.

Installation of cladding

This event starts from the moment of posting starting bar, which is the beginning and starting point for the subsequent installation of siding panels. When fixing it, it is important to use a building level and carefully measure every millimeter, since the slightest deviation from the vertical can subsequently lead to curvature of the entire facing surface.

We fasten the sheets using metal brackets, screws and self-tapping screws, depending on the ones available Supplies. When placing the panels, they should not be installed tightly relative to each other, but a gap of 2–3 mm should be left, which will ensure subsequent adjustment of the installed surfaces.

As a rule, installation of “block house” siding begins from the center, gradually moving to the corners of the structure. At the points of contact, intermediate strips are installed, as well as external and internal corners. Finally, the finishing bar is fixed, and common façade the house becomes like a “natural log house”.

As you can see, installation of metal siding under a log is effective and relatively affordable way create a unique insulated and aesthetic façade. If all operations are carried out correctly, this material will function for a significant period of time and protect your home from the harmful effects of the external environment.

Video

In this video you can learn about the intricacies of installing metal siding:

Scheme

The diagrams show the details of metal siding installation: