In the summer, the dacha is a favorite place for family vacations, and many go out for the whole summer season. For comfortable dacha living and caring for gardens and gardens, running water is required. It is optimal to use HDPE pipes for laying pipes, which have almost completely replaced traditional steel ones due to their unique properties, budget price and the possibility of easy installation on your own.

Explanation of HDPE pipes - polyethylene pipes low pressure. Such polymer products are manufactured using continuous screw extrusion methods, which determine the uniqueness of their characteristics. With their help, cold water is distributed through country house and water supply for watering beds, flower beds, trees and other objects (for example, a swimming pool or bathhouse).

HDPE pipe, technical characteristics

For water supply, HDPE with blue lines is used; products with yellow markings intended for gas supply contain additives that make water unsuitable for use. Products are made from polyethylene with densities of 63, 80 and 100. As the density increases, the strength and cost of the products increases.

In terms of withstanding operating pressure, measured in atmospheres, they differ:

• light ≤ 2.5, designated by the letter L;
• medium-light ≤ 4, SL;
• average ≤ 8, C;
• heavy ≥ 10, designation letter “T”.

For the installation of external networks, the second and third varieties are used with diameters from 20 to 50 mm with a recommended density of 100 or 80 tons. More high density allows you to reduce the wall thickness, which reduces the weight of the product.

Modification PE 100 has the following technical indicators:

• density - 950 tons kg per cubic meter;
• elastic modulus - 800 mPa;
• yield strength - 50 MPa;
• coefficient of linear expansion - 2 mm per linear meter;
• 250% elongation before rupture occurs;
• for specific thermal conductivity -0.41 W/mK;
• increased fragility occurs at minus 50°;
• maximum temperature of the water carrier - +40°C;
• working pressure: 4.5 Atm - at plus 40°, 10 Atm - at 20°.

Advantages and disadvantages

The attractiveness of HDPE for country water supply systems is due to the following properties:

• resistance to corrosion and rotting;
• resistance to chemical influences;
• rigidity and strength;
• HDPE pipe is a product with a perfectly smooth inner surface, which leads to small pressure losses in the system during the passage of water and the absence of accumulation of deposits on the walls;
• variety of produced diameters;
• possibility of operation at temperatures ≤ minus 60 degrees;
• elasticity, which allows them not to burst when the remaining water in them freezes (they stretch, and after thawing they return to their original geometric dimensions);
• HDPE water pipes do not emit substances harmful to humans and the environment, environmental friendliness is confirmed by the presence of a certificate of compliance with sanitary standards;
• year-round operation;
• do not affect taste drinking water;
• light weight and packaging in coils facilitates transportation and storage;
• low thermal conductivity, so condensation does not form on the surface;
• a dielectric that ensures the absence of consequences from stray currents, which allows underground installation without taking protective measures;
• ease of installation of water supply in the country from HDPE pipes with your own hands with the possibility of subsequent changes;
• durability, service life declared by manufacturers ≥ 50 years;
• low prices.

Available disadvantages:

• limited temperature Range allowing use only for cold water supply (with the exception of those made from cross-linked polyethylene);
• instability to ultraviolet radiation, which necessitates underground installation or mandatory protection with shielding materials for outdoor use;
• low strength to mechanical stress; moving garden carts through pipelines and stepping on them is not permissible.

Laying a water pipeline from HDPE pipes in the ground, technology

Scope of work:

1. A water supply network wiring diagram has been drawn up in advance. summer cottage indicating the entry into the house and the location of water distribution points. It is important to ensure convenient access of water to each of the necessary areas. Depending on the area of ​​the site, ≥ 5 pipe outlets are provided, to which short rubber hoses are connected; long ones will be difficult and inconvenient to carry. The diagram shows the installation locations of the cranes with the calculation of the possibility of shutting down individual emergency areas. The diagram indicates the distance from buildings and other permanent landmarks to easily determine the location of the network in the future if the need arises.
2. Calculation of the required pipe footage, number of fittings, tees, angles, adapters, couplings and taps.
3. Which HDPE pipe should I use for underground water supply? Recommended version PN10, available in black with blue stripes.
4. Excavation of soil in trenches with a depth greater than the depth of seasonal soil freezing in your area ≥ 20 cm, for the central regions of Russia 1.6 m is sufficient. Trenches are dug narrow (about 50 cm), they should not pass under existing and planned buildings, and also cross other utility lines. If it is impossible to develop to the required depth, the pipelines will have to be insulated, although the water supply will not burst, but frozen areas create plugs that interfere with the water supply. Reliable protection from freezing - polyurethane foam shells. The water conduits entering the house are placed at the same depth as in other trenches. Vertical installation of HDPE pipes is carried out only inside the building.
5. The bottom of the trench is compacted with tampers, geotextiles are laid on top with a slight overlap on the walls and a 10 cm sand cushion is placed, which will protect the products from deformation.
6. Layout along trenches with compliance check sufficient quantity. The supply pipes from the source of water supply are selected with a diameter of 40 mm, for the distribution network - 20 mm.

7. Connecting HDPE pipes and installing taps. There are two types of connections: detachable and permanent. For the first type, the following types of couplings are used:

   • compression, with internal or external thread;
   • connecting ones used for the same diameters;
   • reducing, used to connect pipelines of different sections.

   The method is simple and quick to implement. Consists of the following operations:

   • at the end of the elements, a marker marks the depth of entry into the fitting;
   • The chamfer is carefully removed, you can use a regular construction knife or a special bevel remover;
   • inserting the pipe into the fitting; to make it easier, the pipe end is lubricated with liquid soap or silicone grease;
   • screwing the nut by hand without using tools that can easily be used to tighten it, which is unacceptable.

   The second type is performed by butt welding of HDPE pipes or electric couplings; it is recommended when passing water under pressure. The first method of joining is performed using special soldering irons for polymers, which are inexpensive. Execution steps:

   • the ends of the elements to be welded are cleaned, trimmed evenly, clamped in hardware clamps and centered;
   • parts are heated to their melting temperatures;
   • removing the soldering iron and connecting the ends of the elements;
   • cooling the resulting seam.

   Connecting couplings with electric spirals is easier, but they are expensive. When voltage is applied to the spirals, the elements being connected are welded to the walls of the coupling.

   The decision on how to connect HDPE pipes depends on the operating conditions of the pipelines, but for underground laying permanent connections are recommended.

8. Checking the tightness of the pipeline.
9. Backfilling the trench. The pipeline is covered with 10 layers of sand with compaction on the sides; compacting sand over the water pipeline is unacceptable. Next, backfilling is carried out with previously excavated soil.

Overhead laying is easier and faster, but will interfere with movement garden equipment and even the passage of people. To protect against destructive action ultraviolet rays It is recommended to cover the water pipeline thin layer soil or cover with protective screens. For the winter, it is advisable to disassemble pipelines laid on top and put them in utility rooms.

Organizing water supply and sewerage in a dacha is a very important issue. The comfort of living in the city will depend on the solution to this problem. summer house and the presence of a site irrigation system. During the initial design, you need to determine whether you will use it in winter or whether everything will be limited only to summer. The depth of pipe laying depends on this, because when sub-zero temperature they can burst due to the presence of ice inside.

It would be best to use polyethylene pipes, and the wiring diagram should be prepared in advance. It will depend on the source of water supply and the method of transporting it to the place of consumption. You can do the installation of such a system yourself or entrust this task to professionals.

How to make water supply in a country house from a well: diagram of laying plastic pipes

Before installing plumbing in your dacha, you should decide where the water will come from. If you have chosen a well as your source of water supply because of its low cost compared to a well, then it is best to make the pipeline underground. But first, you need to find a place where there will be enough water. To do this using hand drill a recess of up to two meters is made, inside which is placed drainage pump. Depending on the volume of incoming water, its power can be determined. If enough liquid is collected, a hole is dug in diameter and concrete rings are placed inside.

The installation of a water supply system in a dacha begins with a pipe coming out of the well; it is located at the very bottom, parallel to the ground level. After removing it and sealing the joints, you can proceed to digging trenches. A marking is made on the ground that corresponds to a plan thought out in advance, and the excavation begins according to it.

Pipes for water supply in the country are made of plastic or PVC. In their modern version, they are quite resistant to pressure changes and even withstand several freezing seasons. To create pressure, a pump must be installed in such a system, but it is placed in a separate room. The less environmental impact, the better.

The water supply scheme may include not only country house, but also watering the site. The pipes for its organization are buried shallowly, but before the onset of frost they must be freed from water.

Winter and summer water supply at the dacha: differences in design and insulation of pipes

The easiest way to make a country water supply with your own hands is from hoses that will lie on the surface of the ground. In this case, it will be called summer, because at the end of autumn they are rolled up and placed in the pantry until the weather warms up in the spring. The most convenient for connection are plastic fittings, which have special “herringbones” on which the hoses are simply put on in one movement. The pipes themselves are made of durable rubber and, with proper care, will last you for many years. The main thing is to wind them into neat coils without bending areas during storage.

Country water supply made from plastic pipes is more resistant to weather conditions and can even be buried in the ground. The standard service life of such material is more than fifty years. Pipes are absolutely not subject to corrosion or other chemical influences. Do not forget that to avoid freezing, the pipes must be located 1-2 meters underground. In this case, the operation of the water supply will be available all year round.

If you want to avoid the hassle of digging deep trenches for winter water supply at your dacha, then get an electric heating cable. True, when using it, electricity bills can increase significantly. Another simple way out of this situation could be to insulate the water supply at the dacha. Merylon can be used as an insulating material, which has different diameter and tightly covers the pipe when correct selection. If you don’t have it, then get glass wool; it is also used in hot water supply systems.

gidpostroyki.ru

Do-it-yourself water distribution in a private house and country house

Properly installed water distribution in a city apartment or private house provides a high level of comfort.

IN comfortable apartment the presence of a bathroom and cold water is considered the norm.

At the dacha, it is impossible to do without water for irrigation.

Water supply for a private house

In a private house, which was built according to modern project, mechanisms for delivering cold and hot water are provided.

In the area adjacent to the house, as a rule, a certain landscape is formed and space is allocated for a traditional vegetable garden.

These objects require plenty of moisture for watering.

You can’t do without water in a bathhouse, which must be on the estate.

Water for all needs (bath, irrigation, bathhouse, etc.) is taken from various sources.

Where does the water in the living space come from?

A person living in a city apartment does not think about how and where the water in the bathroom comes from. It’s exactly the same in the bathhouse, where hot water no problems arise.

Things are different at the dacha. Here, the owner of the site often has to install the pipework for irrigation with his own hands.

Technically savvy summer residents use a manifold for laying pipes and hoses, instead of the usual tees.

Every gardener, when laying pipes around the site, knows from which source the water for irrigation comes.

There are only four main sources of water:

• open water;
• centralized water supply network;
• wells;
• wells.

Wells, as sources of water, are basically a thing of the past. They continue to be used mainly as a backup source and as decorative element in landscape design.

In a private house modern style Most often, water is pumped from a well. As a rule, this water supply scheme is used for estates that are located outside the city limits.

If a house or cottage is built in close proximity to utility networks, then it is technically easier to “cut into” the existing highway.

In this case, significant investments in drilling and well development will not be required.

Centralized source

If there is no water in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then residents call the control room of the water utility and find out when normal water supply will resume.

People living in a private house have to act in the same way. It is impossible to correct the situation with your own hands in such a situation. The bathroom cannot be used. Wash the dishes too.

When deciding to connect to a centralized water supply network, you need to remember this.

It should also be taken into account that in this case you will not have to deal with drilling a well, purchasing expensive equipment and organizational issues. There will be less hassle.

Decentralized source

Sources of this type include rivers, lakes, wells and boreholes. If there is no natural reservoir in the area, then you need to carry out geological studies on the site.

This is done in order to find the aquifer and determine its depth. It is more convenient and cheaper to make sure that the well is located in the basement of the house.

With this location of the source, it is much easier to install the pipeline distribution across the site, as is done at the dacha. In summer, a lot of water is required for irrigation and in any season it is needed in the bathhouse.

The well flow should be higher than the volume of water consumed in a private home and other places.

Current water supply schemes

How to properly install plumbing in a private house?

If we approach the topic in principle, then the water supply diagram in a private house has much in common with how water is distributed in ordinary apartment multi-storey building.

To do this, you can install a pump with your own hands, which creates a pressure of two to three atmospheres.

On the fifth floor and above, water supply for the bathroom and other needs is provided by more powerful pumps.

From this comparison it follows that in a private house you can use plastic pipes, which are more technologically advanced and much cheaper than metal pipes.

The connection diagram for water fittings is of two types:

• collector;
• consistent.

The sequential circuit is the simplest in principle of operation. It is often installed in the house, in the bathhouse, and in the country. Installation work, in order to save money, can be done by yourself.

And in the bathhouse, and also, if the need arises, in the apartment, the main pipe is laid. Tees are cut into it at pre-marked places.

A pipe or hose is laid from a specific tee to a water heater or to a shower, or to a washbasin. This connection scheme allows you to get by with a minimum of pipes.

However, the water pressure in the system will decrease with distance from the source. At the most distant connection, the pressure will be the weakest.

This situation is familiar to people who live in an apartment on the upper floors of high-rise buildings. The collector circuit is free of such disadvantages.

A collector is a device for uniform distribution of water between consumers.

The manifold pipe distribution has more complex configuration.

Its cost is higher than with sequential installation. Higher because installation requires more linear meters of pipe. With all this, the collector provides a higher quality water supply.

Collector system in the apartment

Modern apartments have an open layout and often occupy two levels. In this case, the water distribution scheme is developed individually.

You can install pipelines and install plumbing fixtures in the bathroom yourself. However, it is preferable to entrust these important works to professionals.

It is not recommended to install a collector, or maybe more than one, without proper experience. In this case, the risk of flooding the neighbors below increases.

To avoid such troubles, plastic pipes are connected with a special welding machine. At the dacha, for watering the beds, hoses connected with wire couplings are used.

When installing a pipeline in a city apartment, such connection methods are not suitable.

To make a strong connection, a special tool is used - scissors, wipes for removing fat, nozzles of the appropriate diameter.

This connection reliably serves in circuits for supplying both cold and hot water.

Selection of materials

When laying a pipeline from a well to a house or bathhouse, it is preferable to choose one made of plastic. Polypropylene pipes are widely used in the country and increasingly in apartments.

They are easy to install and their price, compared to pipes made from other materials, is low. The collector is made of copper or brass. Less commonly made of stainless steel.

It is used to distribute both cold and hot water. In the apartment, for the bathroom, you can make reliable wiring with your own hands from copper pipes.

At the dacha or in the bathhouse, such luxury is simply not needed. When planning the implementation of certain works, you need to correctly use the available opportunities.

Steel pipes continue to serve for water supply in the country, in an apartment and in a private house.

To lay a steel line along the section from the well to any point with your own hands, you will need to use a welding machine.

And, plus this, significant physical effort. Practice shows that some owners of private property prefer to use traditional materials.

Both in the bathroom and at their dacha plastic structures are extremely rare. At the same time, a copper collector is considered a completely acceptable option.

It is quite possible for a person who is familiar with the installation rules to carry out the installation with his own hands.

Specifics of installation work

Before you start installation work in the house or at the dacha, you need to purchase all the necessary equipment, materials and components.

An exhaustive list is contained in the project documentation. To install in a bathroom, you need the bathtub itself and a faucet.

The collector is installed in the room where the water distribution unit is located. All pipes and adapters must be assembled correctly to avoid confusion during installation.

When laying a pipeline along the section from the well to the bathhouse, you need to carefully check the quality of the pipe connections.

When performing work inside the house, pipes, manifolds, shut-off valves are attached to pre-designated places.

The pipeline layout is designed so that there are as few transitions “through” the wall as possible. This applies to the bathroom and other rooms.

When the collector is attached, there should be a distance of 20–25 mm between it and the wall.

One of the laws of hydrodynamics states that the fewer turns and angles there are in a highway, the less loss pressure.

It is advisable to observe this rule both when laying a pipeline from a well to a bathhouse, and when installing pipes indoors.

It is also preferable to install the collector on a straight section of the pipeline.

By following all installation instructions, as well as following the advice of experienced specialists, all work on water distribution in a private house will be carried out with high quality.

stoydiz.ru

Do-it-yourself plumbing in a private house, video, diagrams

In a private home, water can be supplied in two main ways:

• through private sources;
• through the central water supply system.

The first method involves supplying water from wells or wells located on the site of a private house. This material contains videos, photographs, as well as diagrams that will help you make a water supply in a private home or country house with your own hands. We will look at how wiring is done and what is needed for this.

Interesting: sometimes the source can be a lake or river. But today it is practically impossible to find such a water supply system, since all reservoirs located near enterprises are polluted. A special treatment complex may be a way out.

Water supply from a private source

Installation of a water supply system in a dacha must begin with checking whether private water sources meet sanitary standards, be it a well or a well. This also applies to large bodies of water from which it is planned to draw resources. A well is considered the most reliable, as it functions in any conditions. Power out? We raise water in buckets with our own hands! In other cases, electric pumps do the work.

Nothing will stop you from equipping this beauty with electric pumps.

If long-term work on a well is not attractive, then as an alternative, you can make a well yourself. It is usually performed in the basement of a building. The main advantage is that there is no need to install pipes from the well to the main water supply system. You also get strong pressure, because electric pumps pump liquid from a close distance. Such a water source also has its drawback - the well is flooded, as a result, thorough cleaning is necessary every 3-5 years.

Depending on the amount of water, the capabilities of the wells differ. In standard cases, owners create a well, the width of which is 10-15 centimeters. This system allows you to obtain liquid using an electric pump, but you will not be able to lift several liters of water with your own hands.

This is what a water supply system installed in the basement of a private house looks like. The scheme is quite simple, so a well is cheaper than a well.

If power outages occur in your area, it is recommended to install a water tank in advance. The volume depends on the number of residents, but the more, the better. As for artesian wells, they are too rarely found in a private house or country house.

Central water supply system

A central sewerage and water supply system has a lot of advantages. You do not need to spend money on a pumping station and the units themselves. There is also no need for a liquid storage tank. As for the purity of the supplied water and its pressure, these indicators will be taken care of by the organization that provides water resource for objects. Also, an enterprise can be of a state type, in simple words - a housing office. In this case, the sewerage and water supply systems may work unstably: additional bills for repairing pipes, the presence of rust, low pressure.

The photo shows a large-scale system that provides water to an entire neighborhood.

When choosing a centralized sewerage system, you do not have to dig trenches for pipes, create a well, etc. You need to submit your application to an organization that operates in your sector. After receiving permission, work begins: special equipment prepares trenches for pipes, installation is carried out, and meters are installed.

Important: before contacting such an organization, you need to study the reviews. If the water supplied to other houses is clean, without pressure drops, then you should choose a centralized network; in other cases, you will have to lay pipes and create a sewage system with your own hands.

Drawing up a diagram

To get the diagram right, you need to have drawing and mathematics skills. If you have no experience in this matter, then it is better to turn to professionals who draw up plans.

So, you are ready to lay a water supply and make a sewage system with your own hands. You have studied the area and know what type of water supply is right for you. The next step will be a diagram - this is one of the most important moments in creating a sewerage system in a private house, cottage or country house.

The diagram must contain the following elements:

• collectors;
• filters;
• boilers;
• pumps;
• pipe size;
• pipeline path;
• distances between elements.

What is the most important thing in the scheme? Of course, this is pipe laying. They can be connected in two ways: using a collector or in series. As for the first method, separate pipes go from the collector to consumers in a private house or country house. The main advantage of installing a collector is uniform pressure in all areas of the building. There are also disadvantages - high cost due to the large number of pipes.

Pipeline diagram with manifold.

A consistent method of connecting sewerage and water supply is recommended for small cottages. This circuit contains a main pipeline equipped with tees for each water consumer. If there are too many consumers in a private home or country house, then the pressure indicator will constantly drop.

Design with main pipeline.

Circuit example

You can study the features using video and photos; consider a diagram where a pipe with water leads to a treatment system. This is done to ensure that consumers receive liquid suitable for consumption. Behind the treatment complex there is a tee that distributes water flows to different consumers. The pipe that will supply hot water goes to the heating element, and the cold pipe is connected directly to the manifold.

A simple diagram allows you to understand how the water supply system works for a private home and cottage.

Next, it is necessary to install shut-off valves on the lines to consumers. The elements are mounted from the collector. The “hot” pipe goes from the heater to a separate collector designed for hot water. After this, pipes are laid out throughout the building.

How to install and wire

The differences between internal and external piping correspond to the difference between hidden and open wiring. If external wiring is selected, then the pipes will go through the house, in the case of closed wiring, the elements will be placed inside the decoration of a private house and its walls. Also today you can make a semi-hidden version, in which the pipeline is installed in a box. They can be pasted over or painted in the same color as the walls. Also, the boxes can be left without finishing at all.

The water supply scheme in a private house or country house is the most difficult moment, since for each object the scheme is drawn up individually. The water supply must be properly connected to the sewerage system. You will have to work on the walls with your own hands if you need hidden wiring. The fluid flow rate of each water intake point and the capacity of the well are the two main indicators that must be calculated before starting the process.

In addition to videos and photos, advice from experienced builders always helps:

• Shut-off valves should be evenly distributed throughout the system, which are useful in an emergency to quickly shut off the flow of water.
• It is best to fasten pipes in a private house or country house using a threaded connection.
• Fittings, fasteners and splitters must be the same if they are installed in the same system.
• You can go through walls in a private house using gaskets that protect the material from corrosion, damage, abrasions and other unfavorable factors.
• There are drain taps throughout the system; when installing them, make a slight slope towards the elements. This feature is necessary to ensure that liquid does not accumulate in the pipeline.
• Buy fittings, seals, gaskets, tapes, fasteners and other elements with a reserve. If everything in the system is the same, then if it breaks, you can immediately replace the part.
• The fewer bends the better. Each of them reduces the pressure in the sewerage and pipeline systems in a private house or country house.

Welding polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene elements are considered the most reliable of the pipes for the dacha. Polypropylene pipes are welded on a machine. The process is specific, so it is worth reading the following instructions when welding polypropylene pipes:

1. We need to get pieces; for this, the pipes need to be cut with special scissors.
2. Welding areas must be marked and cleaned with an alcohol wipe.
3. Next, select a suitable nozzle for polypropylene pipes, set desired temperature and start the unit.
4. We are waiting for the welding machine to heat up, after which you can slide the sections of the house marks onto the welding nozzles. There is no need to turn the pipes.

The welding machine looks like this:

soldering polypropylene pipes

Pipeline maintenance

The secret to efficient and stable operation of the sewerage system along with the pipeline is simple - breakdowns must be repaired immediately after they are detected. If the break in the pipe is small, a rubber gasket can temporarily solve the problem. Also helps in emergency situations cold welding. Has a fistula appeared? We drill and screw in the bolt (only suitable for new pipes).

jsnip.ru

Do-it-yourself installation and installation of water supply in a private house

Do-it-yourself water supply in a private house can be done from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases are virtually the same.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called a tee connection. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

The disadvantage of a series connection when laying out a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used simultaneously.

Collector connection

A collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle allows for stable pressure.

Tee and manifold circuits for water distribution in the house

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

• “Blind” lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for wiring the water supply system in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
• Closed circulation lines are more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project, you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combined option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

• pumping unit for a well or borehole,
• nipple (adapter),
• preventing reverse stroke water check valve,
• pipeline,
• filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
• shut-off valves,
• hydraulic accumulator,
• five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pressure switch, pipes).

Elements plumbing system country house with a well

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

• for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
• for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
• in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on technical characteristics specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Conducting water supply to a house from a well with a caisson

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

• Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
• Secondly, small area The pipes located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room are located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You just need to take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors when setting the pressure switch.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, a pressure switch and a dry-running relay, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

• Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
• A deep cleaning filter is connected;
• Next comes a tee, from which the distribution of water supply pipes in a private house is divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which water will go to a boiler or other water heater for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing water pipes in a private house With your own hands, the correctly selected pipe diameter will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption Starting point The total length of each line is:

• for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
• for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
• For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

• 25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
• 32 mm for 50 l,
• 38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes from various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

If you decide to go with polypropylene, it will be useful for you to know how to weld polypropylene pipes.

Read more about the difference between collector and tee water supply wiring schemes here.

Since you will need coarse water filters, we advise you to familiarize yourself with their types.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

• Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
• Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get the maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, between building structures and the communications running parallel to them must have a gap of at least 25 mm for easy repair work. Bypass internal corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and an external one of 15 mm.
• If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
• The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

• Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
• All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
• Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
• A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.
What can you make from pallets for your garden with your own hands?

There is no need to convince anyone that running water in a dacha is necessary. This is already obvious. Therefore, we will immediately dwell in more detail on how to make a water supply system in a dacha with our own hands, taking into account its operation at different times of the year.

First of all, you need to choose a water source. The cheapest and easiest way to provide fresh water to your dacha is to build a well. It can have different depths. It all depends on the depth groundwater. Basically, it does not exceed fifteen meters, and therefore the construction of a well costs minimal costs. However, such a structure provides small volumes of water (up to 200 liters per hour), and it also contains various impurities (nitrates, heavy metals, bacteria).

Wells and wells: what you need to know

Well design diagram

A more acceptable option is to build a sand well, the depth of which, depending on the aquifer, can be from 15 to 30 meters.

Such a structure per hour can produce approximately 1.5 cubic meters water, which is enough for a small house.

What is better, a well or a borehole?

Drilling a sand well is carried out using the auger method - the rock is extracted to the surface. This usually takes from 3 to 5 days. However, the sandy aquifer contains a lot of clay and sand, and therefore filtration equipment will be needed in this case.

Avid summer residents and supporters of summer country life are well aware of the problems associated with the lack of water supply. But water is constantly needed by plants for watering, animals, and owners for hygienic and culinary purposes. How you want to just open the tap and get it in the required volume, even in country conditions. Do you agree?

We offer a thorough analysis of methods, valuable recommendations on choosing a source, laying above-ground and underground pipelines. The basis for the information presented is regulatory documentation and advice from experienced specialists. The information is supported by a selection of photos and videos.

In practice, a dacha irrigation system turns out to be a vague and uncertain concept. For some, this is a couple of galvanized buckets and several hours a day spent on difficult “walks” to the well and back, for others - a long flexible hose that constantly clings and bends, for others - a complex pipe system leading from a well or pond to all corners garden plot.

We will consider the most optimal options that eliminate large amounts of water when watering. physical exercise and reducing financial costs during their construction to a minimum.

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The old metal barrels have been replaced by convenient plastic containers designed to collect rainwater from the roof. The built-in faucet and connected pump make the watering process more comfortable

Storage containers come in different types: metal and plastic, large and small, purchased and homemade. If the area is small and the reservoir is large, there is enough liquid for several waterings.

A pipeline operating in the summer can be connected to any of the listed sources, but with minor reservations. Suppose it is suitable for working with a plastic container collapsible design, and to connect to the well it is better to build a permanent system.

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Instructions for assembling a temporary water supply system

To install a seasonal “temporary structure” you will need a set of pipes and fittings of suitable diameter and a pump for forced water supply. To correctly calculate the quantity Supplies, draw up a drawing in the form of a sketch, on which you need to indicate the length of all highways and connection points.

You can't live without running water in your dacha. Summer water supply is the most common water supply option summer cottages. Thanks to the summer water supply system, plants are fully watered, time is saved, and work is made easier. Using pipes made from new materials instead of traditional metal ones allows you to make plumbing much faster, easier and cheaper.

The summer version of the water supply is quite suitable for seasonal living in the country. Can be used for both irrigation and household appliances, supplying water to the shower, bathhouse, swimming pool, brings comfort to country life. IN winter period its use is undesirable or completely impossible. Summer water supply is simpler and costs less than year-round water supply, but is less durable.

What water sources are used for summer plumbing?

The primary task when arranging a summer water supply is choosing a water source.

Types of water sources for summer water supply:

1. Central highway.
2. Well.
3. Well.
4. Natural body of water.
5. Rainwater reservoir.

Central water supply

Perfect option. To connect to a steel main pipe directly under pressure, use an overhead tee (saddle). It is installed at the entry point and secured with bolts. After which a ball valve is mounted into it on the fumnitka. Using a drill, drill a hole through the faucet central pipe and immediately close the tap.

Natural bodies of water

Reservoirs - river, lake, pond. The disadvantage of using open reservoirs for country water supply is the need to purify the water from foreign impurities.

Wells

There are two types of wells designed for water intake - artesian and sand.

A sand well will require filtration equipment due to the high sand and clay content. The water supply rate is on average about two cubic meters per hour, which is quite enough for summer cottages and small country houses.

Water in an artesian well rises to the surface under pressure. The resulting amount of water is 10 cubic meters per hour. Additional benefit artesian well- more pure water through deep drilling. Such wells are durable: on average, their service life is 50 years.

Well

The depth of the well depends on the groundwater level and usually does not exceed 15 m. The disadvantages of the well include the content of many harmful impurities and a small supply of water - approximately 200 liters per hour.

Rainwater collection tank

Pools or artificial ponds, plastic and metal containers: tanks, barrels, vats are used as reservoirs for collecting melt and rainwater. They are being laid to them drainage pipes or install roof drainage pipes. There is no need to drain the water from the containers for the winter, but to prevent the walls of the tank from freezing, place several plastic bottles half filled with water or sand.

What are the summer water supply schemes?

Once the source of water has been determined, you should decide which type of water supply to choose: year-round or only summer.

Summer water supply in a personal plot, dacha, or vegetable garden is used for watering plants, filling an artificial reservoir, supplying water to a shower, bathhouse, summer kitchen and other household needs. In winter, such a water supply system is not used.

Summer water supply can be dismountable or permanent.

Summer collapsible water supply

If you choose a collapsible water supply system, the pipes or hoses simply lie on the ground or are raised above it. Such a water supply can be easily assembled from ordinary silicone or rubber hoses, connecting them together with plastic or steel adapters.

There are special clamps on sale that have a ribbed cone for the hose on one side, and a convenient elastic connector on the other, allowing you to connect and disconnect the hoses in one movement. Such latches create a strong joint.

The advantages of a summer collapsible water supply include:

1. Quick assembly and disassembly.
2. Quickly find a damaged pipe and repair the hole.
3. The cost of a collapsible water supply is lower than a stationary one.

Disadvantages of summer collapsible water supply:

1. Pipes interfere with movement.
2. High probability of theft.
3. The need for assembly and disassembly at the beginning and end of the watering season.

Stationary summer water supply

Permanent water supply is laid underground. For these purposes, you can use thick-walled rubber hoses or plastic pipes. Plastic water supply in a summer cottage is laid at an angle to the drain valve near the water supply source. Before the onset of cold weather, the remaining water from the pipeline is completely pumped out to avoid freezing and damage to the pipes.

For a permanent summer water supply scheme, pipes are placed in the ground at a shallow depth, and water taps are brought to the surface.

Advantages of a stationary country water supply:

1. The pipes are located underground and do not interfere with walking or transporting cargo on a cart.
2. Installation of summer water supply is carried out once.
3. The underground location of the pipes serves as protection against theft.
4. Easy preparation of the system for winter, just open the drain valve and release all the water.

The disadvantages of a stationary summer water supply are:

1. Larger material costs than when constructing a collapsible water supply system.
2. Labor-intensive installation of water supply due to the need to dig trenches and lay pipes at an angle.
3. Difficulty finding and repairing a hole in a pipe.

How to make a summer plumbing plan

Before you purchase pipes and begin assembling them, you need to think over a plan diagram and draw up a preliminary drawing, specifying all dimensions in detail. You should decide in advance: where to supply the water, where the water intake points will be located, how many connections will be needed.

Then, using pegs and twine, the future water supply route is divided into plot of land, measure and calculate the required footage of pipes, the number of angles, tees, taps and other consumables. In any case, a small supply of components will not hurt. A good plan is the key to success, saving effort, time and money.

The project should indicate existing and planned underground communications, paths, buildings, and plantings, especially if a permanent summer water supply system is being installed. When installing a stationary summer water supply, trenches are prepared for laying pipes. The laying depth of pipes is usually 30-40 cm.

However, if the pipes lie under the beds, and there is a possibility of them being damaged by a shovel or cultivator, then the depth of the trench is increased to 50-70 cm. This is a labor-intensive process, but replacing broken pipes and eliminating leaks is even more difficult. Pipes reach the surface of the earth only in places where water is supplied.

When planning a permanent water supply, it is important to remember that all pipes in the trench are laid at a slope towards the connection to the water intake. A drain valve is installed at the very bottom of the pipeline. This will allow you to drain the water for the winter and avoid damage to the pipes. It is necessary to determine in advance the places for supplying water.

The number of consumption points depends on the location of the beds, greenhouse, summer shower, bathhouse, and swimming pool. In order not to carry the hose from place to place, it is wiser to remove the pipes at 5-10 points. Hose sections 3-5 m long are connected to such hydrants, which ensures watering of each individual zone. A bayonet mount for quick connection of a hose or an automatic spray system is installed at all consumption points.

Before cutting off hoses or sawing pipes, you should carefully measure the required length with a tape measure, mark them with a marker, and only then begin cutting. This approach, according to the principle of measure seven times and cut once, will save you from annoying mistakes and additional costs.

What materials, devices and tools are required for arranging a summer water supply system?

To install a summer water supply at your summer cottage, you will need the following materials and tools:

1. Pipes and hoses.
2. Fittings and tees.
3. Compression couplings with external thread (20; 1/2).
4. Adjustable wrench, gas wrench, spanners № 17-24.
5. A special cutter for plastic water pipes or a hacksaw for metal.
6. Shovel.
7. Soldering iron. If you plan to connect pipes by welding, use a special electric soldering iron instead of fittings and a gas wrench. Soldering irons are inexpensive, and in some construction stores They are even available for rent.
8. Ball valve 1/2.
9. Compression angle 20 mm.
10. Compression tee 20 mm.
11. Saddle 63 (1/2).
12. Fumnitka.
13. Adjustable wrench, gas wrench and spanners No. 17-24.
14. Sanding paper.
15. Knife, tape measure, pencil.

Pipes

Pipes for assembling a summer water supply system on an average dacha plot of 10 acres are preferable to plastic or polyethylene (diameter 20-25 mm, length 100 m). Reliable uninterrupted water supply largely depends on the quality of the pipes. Green polypropylene pipes from Banninger with a diameter of 25 mm have proven themselves well. They are more expensive than traditional white pipes, but they are resistant to temperature changes and can withstand even frosts.

Hoses

Instead of pipes, you can use hoses.

Rubber hoses with thick walls reinforced with nylon fibers are stronger and more durable; they will reliably serve for 15 years.

Fittings and tees

The routing of summer water supply pipes is carried out using tees, and special fittings are best suited for connecting plastic pipes. Using fittings allows you to assemble a country water supply system in just one day. In this case, the joint is sealed, and if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

Diagram of a collapsible summer water supply system made from hoses

The simplest design is a summer water supply made from flexible hoses. The collapsible hose system is quite simple. With the onset of heat, the hoses are connected to the pump and laid on the surface of the ground so that they do not interfere with free movement around the summer cottage.

Hoses come in rubber and silicone. To connect them, use purchased or homemade devices: steel and plastic adapters, jumpers, pieces of pipes or special latches that allow you to quickly separate or connect two sections of water supply. On one side they have a spring connector, and on the other - a “ruff”. This type of clamp provides a strong and reliable connection.

Nowadays they produce non-twisting hoses with special reinforcement. There are corrugated hoses that can stretch to a considerable length and are very compact when compressed.

Hoses and components for drip irrigation are now on sale.

Basically, water supply from hoses is used for watering in the country. In autumn, the hoses and pump are folded and put away indoors.

The procedure for assembling a summer water supply system

Determine where to place the terminals: entrance to the greenhouse, platform for the machine, Summer shower, washbasin, swimming pool, flower garden, etc. It is more convenient to attach and remove the hose at an intersection or on a wide path.

Measure the distance and calculate the required pipe length. Plastic or polyethylene pipes are best suited for arranging summer water supply. They are conveniently connected using flexible hoses. This design of the water supply system can be easily altered if necessary. You can connect pipes with special plastic fittings or by soldering. In addition, to assemble a summer water supply you will need tees, taps, and angles.

It is advisable to bury the pipes in order to preserve them and increase their service life.

Check the pressure in the pipeline. If water flows from a tap that is fully open under good pressure, then pipes with a small cross-section - 20 mm - are sufficient. At low pressure (less than 2 bar), you should not install more than three outlet points, as they will not be able to work simultaneously. At low pressure, it is recommended to take a larger pipe - with a cross-section of 25 mm. Larger cross-section pipes are also used on large sections of more than 30 m in length.

As a rule, at the junction of the central line and the section pipeline, an inlet tap or valve with a diameter of 1/2 (marking 15) with an internal thread is installed.

The HDPE pipe is attached to the inlet tap using a coupling. If the faucet has an internal thread, then the coupling has an external thread, and vice versa.

A tee is placed at the fork of the pipe, from the tee - a piece of pipe, onto which a hose is put through a tap with an adapter. For a pipeline with a diameter of 20mm, the following kit is suitable:

• coupling with external thread 20 mm by 3/4,
• 3/4 tap with external or internal thread,
• adapter for 3/4 internal thread hoses.

For pipes with a cross-section of 25 mm, the following components are used:

1. The faucet is made from the same HDPE 25 by 3/4.
2. Adapter for hoses with 3/4 external thread.

You will also need:

1. Coupling for the inlet valve.
2. Tees.
3. Kits for attaching hoses at outlet points.
4. Pipes.
5. Fum tape for sealing threaded connections.
6. Bends for installation at pipe turning points.

First of all, all threaded connections are assembled.

The main task when assembling threaded connections is to prevent leaks. In a threaded connection, there is an external thread on one side and an internal thread on the other. The fum tape is wound tightly and without folds along the external thread in 6-8 layers clockwise (thread facing up). Then they screw in the parts, pressing one tightly against the other, being careful not to distort them. Then lightly tighten with a gas wrench.

To secure it in the coupling, the pipe is cut evenly with a knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw to obtain a smooth edge. Loosen the clamping nut slightly. Insert the pipe tightly. In this case, the pipe, at a depth of approximately 5 cm, first rests against the rubber sealing ring inside the coupling. It is necessary to push the pipe another 2 cm further so that the pipe passes through the ring all the way. Then tighten the clamping nut by hand.

The hose can be connected to the water supply using quick-release couplings. Couplings come in various modifications, the main thing is that they match the diameter of the hose. All kinds of watering guns and sprayers are sold complete with couplings.

Couplings with an aquastop are very convenient, which shuts off the water when disconnecting or replacing the sprinkler or gun, which eliminates the need to turn off the tap.

The summer water supply can be equipped with a timer, and then watering will be carried out according to a schedule, even in the absence of the owners.

Year-round water supply

Most often, water is supplied from a well using a submersible pump. The pump power is selected depending on the depth of the well. For a depth of 10 m, “Aquarius” or “brook” is suitable. To draw water from a well, you will need a much more powerful pump.

When installing a year-round water supply in a country house, the pump is connected to a voltage source, and the cable and water supply are laid together in a single casing made of plastic sewer pipes. The casing serves to protect the water supply from mechanical damage and freezing.

The depth of the trench for laying the water supply must be below the freezing level of the soil. Digging such a trench is a labor-intensive task. You can make the task easier by digging a trench to a depth of 60 cm, and pouring a layer of insulation 20-30 cm thick on top of the pipe. Quite durable materials with low moisture absorption are used as insulation: foam chips, polyethylene, furnace slag, expanded clay .

A pit of 70x70 cm and a depth of 1 m is dug near the well. The pit is used to connect the pump to the water supply, and, if necessary, quickly disconnect and remove the pump. The walls of the pit are lined with bricks or reinforced with boards antiseptic impregnation. The bottom is filled with concrete mortar or covered with crushed stone and compacted. A water pipe with a “brush” for the hose connected to the pump, as well as an electrical cable, are brought into the pit and secured.

To prevent the water in the pump hose from freezing, the pit is insulated. A small drain hole with a diameter of about 1 mm is made in the lower part of the water supply system, thanks to which the water in the water supply system slowly flows into the pit and does not freeze in winter.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the constant humidity in the pit and insignificant loss of water.

To safely turn the pump on and off, install a waterproof socket or use a sealed contact connector.

In outdoor conditions, ordinary taps with faucets are most often installed, or even better, bronze or cast iron valves. Ball Valves It is undesirable to use them; under the influence of precipitation and temperature fluctuations they quickly fail.

The most complex unit of a year-round water supply system is the “fontal” water distribution unit, located in unheated room. Most often used for such purposes special devices- water taps. A significant disadvantage of the column is the high cost of equipment and the complexity of installation.

How to install an autonomous water supply

If there is a central pipeline, then installing a summer water supply system on your site is not difficult. Autonomous water supply is a more complex task.

Ideally, a diagram of an autonomous water supply system is drawn up in parallel with the design of the house and site: the location of pipes and mechanisms is determined, a step-by-step plan is carried out, estimates are calculated, and equipment is purchased. For the boiler and water meter unit, a small room with an area of ​​2-3 m² is usually allocated on the ground floor. It is convenient to monitor and regulate the water supply process if technical block and the water input unit are installed in the same room.

The autonomous water supply system includes the following equipment:

1. Pipes (metal, metal-plastic, polypropylene).
2. Fittings and taps.
3. Water-lifting equipment (pumping station, submersible pump).
4. Devices for regulating pressure in the water supply system (pressure gauge, pressure switch, hydraulic accumulator or expansion tank).
5. Electrical equipment with automatic protection.
6. Filters for purifying water from harmful impurities and suspended particles.
7. Water heater (preferably storage).

Installation of pumping equipment

A pre-prepared well, a spring chamber, or a well are used as a source of water. Each source has advantages and disadvantages. For example, the water in a well is cleaner, but drilling is expensive. It is much cheaper to dig a well and install a submersible pump with a three-stage filter to purify the water.

There are the following types of pumping equipment for drawing water from a source:

1. Submersible pump.
2. Surface pump.
3. Automatic pumping station.

Submersible pump

Used at a water level of 20 m, operates silently. For pump models with check valve Additionally, a hydraulic accumulator, a filtration unit, an automatic unit and a distribution unit with fittings are required. For contaminated water sources, it is recommended to choose a pump with a stainless metal impeller.

Surface pump

Used when the water level is less than 8 m. Installed indoors, connected to the well with a supply pipe.

Automatic pumping station

The electric motor and hydraulic part are separated by a partition. A generator, diesel or gasoline, is used to pump groundwater and water the site. The station includes: a pump, a hydraulic accumulator and an automation unit. The hydraulic accumulator serves as a reserve reservoir and limits the frequent activation of the pump. Inexpensive stations are noisy, so it is better to install new generation pumping equipment.

Installation of a stationary summer water supply

For permanent structures, plastic or polyethylene HDPE pipes that are connected by flexible hoses.

This connection allows you to easily and quickly remake and improve the entire pipeline system. Another installation method is welding using an electric soldering iron or connecting with special plastic fittings. The pipes are laid in shallow grooves (30-35 cm) and backfilled.

Only cranes lead to the surface of the earth. Advantages: no obstacles when walking, mowing the lawn and using a cart, more aesthetic appearance. If desired, pipes or hoses can be easily dug out and disassembled. The disadvantage of underground construction is that there is a possibility of accidental damage to the system during excavation work.

To make it easy to drain water from the pipeline in the fall, create a slight slope for drainage. A valve is installed in the lowest part of the water supply: through which the drain is carried out, so that in winter the frozen water does not rupture the pipes and hoses.

It is especially important to ensure the safety of the electrical network. For this purpose, sealed connectors and moisture-proof sockets are used.

Any type of water supply system, summer collapsible or permanent, should be made in such a way that an unexpected breakdown can be easily eliminated without resorting to complete dismantling of the water supply system.

How to assemble a summer water supply from plastic pipes

When installing a summer water supply in conditions of above-zero air temperatures and using only cold water, almost all types of polypropylene pipes are suitable. The service life of PN-10 pipes, designed to supply water with a temperature of 30°C and a working pressure of 11.1 kgf/cm 2, is 50 years; PN-20 pipes, designed for transporting hot water at 60°C at an operating pressure of 10.9 kgf/cm 2, will last even longer.

It is better to make the main part of the summer water supply from 25 mm pipes. Smaller diameter pipes do not provide structural rigidity. 2 m long pipes easily fit on the trunk of a car. To assemble the water supply system, straight and angular ones are used couplings. It is advisable to install a coarse filter at the entrance to the main line in the form of a separate unit or combined with a ball valve.

Summer water supply from HDPE pipes is the easiest to assemble and maintain. It is easy to assemble without special tools and does not deteriorate in winter (only the taps remain fully open during the winter).

To quickly disconnect the entire water supply from the central main, install a coupling with a union nut, the so-called “American”. Such a coupling allows, in necessary cases, to connect and disconnect both rigid and flexible lines without affecting the threaded connections in other parts of the pipeline. You will need several outlets to secure the watering hose and a separate outlet for domestic needs with 1/2 ball valves. Polypropylene pipes are connected to metal elements using combined transition fittings, which have a welding socket at one end and a thread at the other.

20 mm pipes are quite suitable for supplying water to the shower; they are attached to the wall of the utility room with plastic clips at intervals of 1 m.

Almost all summer water supply pipes are laid freely directly on the surface of the earth. No need for special means protection of pipes from temperature deformation and stress.

Draining water from all summer water supply lines is organized as simply and conveniently as possible. It is advisable to install standard tees with plugs in the lowest places of the pipeline.

How to prepare plastic pipes for summer water supply assembly

If the topography of a summer cottage is uneven, when laying pipes in some places of the water supply, due to a slight bend, excessive stress is created. To eliminate the increased pressure, simply bend the pipe slightly using a hair dryer with a special nozzle.

When assembling the system, it is necessary to adjust polypropylene pipes to the required length. For cutting plastic pipes with a cross-section of up to 40 mm, special scissors are used. There are scissors for cutting pipes with a diameter of up to 75mm. But most often for plastic pipes 50 mm and larger, a roller cutter is used.

When working with a cutter, no additional processing of the ends of unreinforced pipes is required. If the installation volume is small, it is quite possible to cut plastic pipes with a regular hacksaw, electric jigsaw or grinder.

Preparing trenches for summer water supply

The next stage of arranging the water supply is preparing the trench. Its depth depends on the location of the pipes: 15-20 cm is enough for a lawn, and 40-70 cm for beds. They start digging from the water source, then all the pipes are laid in the trench and securely connected to each other. After laying and joining the pipes, check the water supply for leaks. The water pipe should not be bent in short sections due to possible stagnation of water. After which they begin to connect the water taps.

Water intake devices

If the pipeline is intended to supply water to the greenhouse, then cast iron or bronze valves and taps with axle boxes are installed. It is not recommended to use ball valves, as they quickly fail.

The water distribution unit is the most complex device in the water supply system. It is installed in an unheated room or outdoors. The standpipe is used less frequently due to complex installation and high cost.

How a soldering iron works for welding plastic pipes

Soldering irons are available for sale domestic production of good quality and at a reasonable price, equipped with a convenient metal suitcase, pipe cutting scissors, tape measure and gloves. There are also less expensive modifications - without additional equipment and with fewer attachments.

The welding machine-soldering iron for polypropylene and polyethylene pipes consists of three main parts:

1. Soldering iron with heating element (plate with heating element) and control unit (switches, temperature relay, indicators).
2. Replacement nozzles for heating pipes and fittings. They are bolted to the heating plate through special holes. The nozzles are made of aluminum alloy with anti-adhesive Teflon coating and require careful and careful handling. Do not clean them with metal brushes or abrasives to avoid damaging the Teflon surface.
3. Stand for fixing the device during welding.

How to properly weld polypropylene pipes

Diffusion welding of polypropylene pipes occurs due to partial surface melting of the parts being connected when heated using a welding machine. The operating temperature when welding polypropylene is 260°C. In order for the welding joint to be strong, the parts being welded must have the same properties. It is not recommended to weld pipes from different manufacturers.

Fittings and pipes of different brands differ in the softening speed and diameter tolerance. The welding process itself is not complicated and takes little time. You should strictly adhere to the time intervals allotted according to the instructions for each phase: heating - welding - cooling.

Both parts prepared for welding are simultaneously attached to the nozzles of the welding machine: the fitting is put on the mandrel nozzle, and the pipe is inserted into the coupling nozzle.

You cannot rotate or move the pipe and fitting during heating, so both parts are tried on relative to each other in advance and marked with colored markers for convenience. The heating time is counted after the pipe and fitting are put on the nozzles.

After heating is complete, the parts are removed from the nozzles and connected: the end of the pipe is inserted all the way into the fitting socket. The welding time begins from the moment the pipe is connected to the fitting. The connected parts are fixed and held motionless, preventing movement during the welding time indicated in the instructions.

Do not cool parts with compressed air or cold water.

The final phase is cooling of the parts. During this period of time, until it cools completely and recovers mechanical strength parts must not load the connection.

After the cooling stage is completed, they begin welding the next joints or installing the assembled unit in the designated place. After testing the plumbing system, the pipes are covered with earth or left on the surface.

Outlets with taps are installed throughout the area, onto which a piece of hose of the required length is attached in one movement. Using a variety of sprinklers, you can water several places at once.

Rules for maintaining the summer water supply system

Along with the undeniable advantages of summer water supply, ease and speed of assembly, cost-effectiveness, there are also some disadvantages - for example, the need to drain water for the winter and maintain the slope of the pipes to the connection point. Otherwise, the water will freeze in the pipes and a defect in part of the water supply will form. To drain water, a special valve is installed at the lowest point of the system. Must select correct slope, otherwise the water pressure will be weak.

If the water supply is above ground, disassemble the structure and then store it indoors. It is necessary to periodically check the condition of pipes and connecting elements and, if necessary, replace individual parts.

When installing a permanent summer water supply, pipes and hoses are laid in the ground, with taps and switches brought to the surface. There is no need to bury the structure to great depth. It is enough to simply cover the pipeline with earth to ensure its safety and not create obstacles for walking.

What will the summer water supply system look like at the dacha - a simple scheme made from scrap materials or a modern design with automatic control– everyone chooses for themselves. In any case, the arrangement of a water supply system at a summer cottage will fully justify the efforts and money spent. To paraphrase the classic: running water is not a luxury, but a means of irrigation. Thanks to the summer pipeline, water is supplied to the farthest corners of the garden, and then you can forget about heavy buckets and watering cans and spend the free time with family and friends.