Name of works	Unit	price, rub.
Preparing the base
Grinding cement screed ( minor irregularities, without alignment)
Primer of cement screed
Plywood flooring (wooden base)
Discrete plywood flooring ( concrete base)
Laying plywood with glue and screws (concrete base)
Sanding plywood
Laying parquet on a finished base
Laying laminated parquet
Laying parquet boards
Laying uncoated block parquet (simple)
Laying parquet ( geometric shapes) without frieze
Laying parquet ( floral ornaments)
Laying solid unfinished boards on plywood
Laying wt. plywood coated boards
Installation of cork expansion joints
Installation of frieze
Sanding and varnishing parquet
Grinding: draw machine, surface grinder, angle grinder;
Parquet varnishing (3 layers)
Oil application
Applying colored oil
Brushing
Restoring chamfers on solid boards
Other services
Installation of skirting boards
Painting, priming and varnishing skirting boards
Visit of a technician (technologist) in Moscow

Orders for laying and sanding parquet are accepted from 20 sq.m.

Laying parquet - multi-step process, which requires a specialist not only to have relevant work experience and qualifications, but also to consistently carry out all technological steps. Carrying out such work with your own hands, especially if you are doing it for the first time, is quite a risky undertaking. The final result also depends largely on the correct selection of materials used and their quality. The issue with the parquet chemicals used is especially acute. Unfortunately, the level of quality of products manufactured in this area in the post-Soviet space today remains critically low. The chemical production facilities established by Western manufacturers in Russia are not correcting the situation either. In addition to the meager assortment, their products often do not have the outstanding technical characteristics that are so in demand when carrying out parquet laying work. Over more than two decades of working with products from various manufacturers, our installation specialists have long chosen the parquet chemicals of the Italian concern Vermeister for its safety for health, ease of use and high technical characteristics.

TIP: When choosing chemicals for laying parquet, try to choose a manufacturer whose range includes a full range of products for these finishing works: from primer for screed to the final varnish layer and care products. This way, you will avoid problems caused by the lack of compatibility of certain products.

The installation technology depends on the type of parquet chosen. At the same time, a humidity level within the range of 30% - 60% and a temperature regime of 18°C ​​- 24°C must be observed in all installation technologies until people move into the premises. Also, before starting any parquet laying work, all Finishing work associated with the release of moisture into environment(putty, painting walls, laying tiles, etc.). Let's look at the main cases of orders from our clients.

Laying block parquet.

The reason, in most cases, is cement strainer, must be even (height difference no more than 2 mm per 2 m length), dry (with residual moisture no more than 2% CM), clean (without any greasy stains, paint residues and other substances that can reduce the adhesion of the adhesive) and durable. If the residual moisture content of the base, measured at depth with a carbide hygrometer, exceeds 2%, but is within 5%, prerequisite The continuation of the work is the application of polyurethane waterproofing primer (Primer UR-50). It will create a protective barrier that will prevent negative impact moisture on the laid parquet. The use of this primer also reduces glue consumption, increases its adhesion to the base, removing dust from it, and also strengthens the surface, penetrating into depth. If people live in close proximity to the premises where work is taking place, it is recommended to use polyurethane primer solvent-free, such as Primer SF from Vermeister. Application of this product it is also preferable to have no vapor barrier at the base of the floor to prevent solvents from entering the rooms below. If the surface is too smooth, it is recommended to roughen it before applying primer to make it more smooth. deep penetration product. 24 hours after priming the base, you can proceed to the next stage.

As a base for block parquet, sanded, moisture-resistant birch plywood of grade FK 2/4 or 3/4 with a thickness of 10 mm or more is used, depending on the level of the floor joining the parquet in another room (for more details, see the article “How to choose plywood”). Sheets of plywood are glued to the screed using two-component epoxy-polyurethane adhesive (eg REPOX) and additionally fixed to the floor with self-tapping screws. For objects with increased environmental requirements for finishing materials, it is preferable to use a two-component epoxy-polyurethane adhesive without solvents (for example, ZERO). In cases where there are hidden communications (pipes, etc.) in the floor and there is no plan for their installation, the plywood is cut into smaller pieces of 25*25 cm and glued to the base without fastening with self-tapping screws. Polymerization of the adhesive composition occurs due to chemical reaction two mixed components. Thus, possible changes in humidity and temperature do not affect the speed of its setting, and after 72 hours we are able to begin sanding the plywood.

Plywood is sanded using a sanding machine. drum type using 36 or 40 grit abrasive. This operation is performed in order to align the edges of the plywood adjacent to each other.

For gluing parquet, use one of three types glue: water-dispersed, epoxy-polyurethane or silane-based. Each of them has its own advantages.

Water-dispersed adhesive (eg REVIN SX) is odorless and quite economical in price. However, it should only be used for fixing parquet of species insensitive to moisture, and also if there is a significant amount of time available, since the process completely dry glue before subsequent sanding of the parquet takes at least 18 days.

Two-component epoxy-polyurethane glue dries completely within 3 days, costs a little more, but can be used with any type of wood, including exotic ones. The polymerization of this glue does not depend on the level of humidity and temperature in the room, however, when choosing a manufacturer, you should definitely check the life time ready mixture two product components. For comfortable work with the material, it should be at least, and preferably more than, 2 hours, in order to have time to work out the entire set and not throw away the unused remainder. When working with two-component adhesive, pay attention Special attention on the quality of mixing components. Be sure to use electric drill with a nozzle for receiving best result. Otherwise, there is a risk of incomplete polymerization of the product with subsequent tearing of the parquet from the base or an excessively long drying time for the adhesive.

The new generation of adhesives based on modified silane occupies the highest level in the hierarchy of adhesive compositions for parquet. This type of glue has no equal in strength, elasticity, ease of use and versatility of use. Besides soundproofing properties, resistance to moisture and the possibility of subsequent operation with temperature conditions Within the range from -40°C to +90°C, this type of glue is characterized by maximum safety for human health and is ideal for use in facilities with the highest requirements for environmental friendliness of finishing materials. A stable adhesive ridge, formed when applying the material to the surface with a notched trowel, guarantees economical consumption of the product. The cost of this glue is above average, however, this is more than compensated by its qualities. In the Vermeister assortment, this type of glue is represented by two products: MONOSIL and ZEROMONO.

Before laying parquet on the base, you need to make sure that it is in temperature and humidity balance with the microclimate of the room. The glue is applied to the surface of the plywood with a notched trowel. In this case, the size of the teeth determines the amount of glue applied.

There are several ways to lay block parquet. The most common and in demand today is the deck type of installation. The parquet strips are placed staggered with an offset of 1/2 or 1/3 in relation to each other and, in addition to glue, are fixed to the plywood at an angle of 45° with nails without heads (pins) using a pneumatic gun. When calculating the amount of parquet, in this case you should add 5% for the reserve that is consumed when cutting parquet strips during installation against the walls. The direction in which parquet is laid depends on the shape and functionality of the room. In corridors and walk-through rooms, it is preferable to lay the dies along the movement, and in non-passage rooms - perpendicular to the entrance. The option in which the parquet is laid at 45° to the wall helps to visually expand the room and enliven the design. In this case, it is necessary to include an additional 15% of the material from the net area into consumption. It should be remembered that the light from the window falling on the parquet laid parallel to it will highlight the joints of the tiles.

Laying piece parquet in the form of a herringbone places increased demands on the geometry of the parquet planks, because any non-compliance with strict rectangular shape guarantees displacement and disruption of the pattern with each subsequent die. The symmetry of the pattern plays an equally important role.

Another common installation option is in the form of diamonds (squares). The number of planks forming a figure directly depends on their length. It is important to remember that in spacious rooms It is better to use piece parquet with a length of 420 and 490 mm, so that the pattern does not appear too small and is not lost in space. Parquet with a length of 350, 280 and 210 mm looks more advantageous in rooms with a small area.

TIP: if you prefer a calm, uniform floor texture, and in the purchased parquet, some planks have knots, sapwood, marble and other natural manifestations of natural wood, before installation, sort the planks and place them in places that are obviously hidden from view: built-in closets, corners of the room , any furniture that cannot be rearranged.

After the stage of laying piece parquet is completed, the surface is sanded with special equipment using abrasives of the required grain size, and then varnished or coated with oil (see the articles “Grinding parquet”, “Coating parquet with oil” and “Varnishing parquet”).

Laying solid boards.

Preparing the base before laying solid boards is practically no different from preparing the base for block parquet. The plywood used must be at least 15 mm thick in order to be able to withstand the stress created by the solid board. Water-dispersed adhesive is not used for laying solid boards, since it does not have a sufficient level of elasticity for the adhesive seam to be able to withstand the movement of the board during changes in humidity and temperature in the room during the operation of the floor covering. When working with an already varnished solid board, you need to be doubly careful: if two-component glue gets on the varnished surface, you must immediately remove it with a special CLEANER product. The installation process will be greatly facilitated by silane glue, which can be removed from the surface with a regular rag. Besides glue solid board it is fixed through the ridge to the plywood with special self-tapping screws of the “SPAX” type, which, thanks to a special thread, are completely recessed into the board. The distance between the screws is 20-30 cm, and they perform the primary function of pressing the board to create a strong adhesive seam.

Laying parquet boards.

This is exactly the case when, if you have certain skills and follow the instructions from the manufacturer of the parquet board, you can lay flooring with your own hands. As you know, parquet boards are laid in a floating manner without being secured to the base. The base can be either a leveled cement screed that meets the same requirements as for laying plywood, or the plywood itself, if it is necessary to raise the floor level and increase the heat and sound insulation of the room. The planks of the parquet board are fixed to each other using the so-called “ lock connection" Wherein this technology has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Among the positive aspects, one can note the speed with which parquet-laying work is carried out in this case, as well as the absence of the need to purchase any Additional materials except for polyethylene foam or cork backing 2-3 mm thick. The floor is ready for use immediately upon completion of the work.

In addition to the fact that this technology is not suitable for rooms larger than 240 m², there are a number of troubles that this type of installation can entail. A parquet board laid in a floating manner turns, in fact, into a drum-membrane with an area the size of a room. Any sounds (walking, fallen objects, etc.) will not be absorbed by the floor covering, but will be reflected in both directions: the room where it is laid and down to the neighbors. Cork backing however, it does little to save the situation. When using a polyethylene foam backing, the situation is even worse. The sound insulation of this material is lower, and over time it shrinks in places of greatest traffic, turning from 3 mm to 1-1.5 mm. Due to differences in level over time, parquet planks may begin to creak when walked. However, this is not even the main problem. By laying a board on a screed or plywood in a floating manner, you deprive yourself of the opportunity to later, if necessary, sand it and re-coat it with varnish or oil. This is due to the fact that parquet grinding machines have a significant weight (up to 100 kg), exerting strong pressure on the parquet surface when grinding. In this case, a parquet board that is not fixed to the base will “walk” during processing, which will inevitably lead to uneven sanding and damaged coating.

Taking into account the fact that the layer of valuable rock in the construction of a parquet board is usually 4-5 mm, the possibility of regrinding and updating its surface increases the service life of your floors by 2-3 times. Therefore, we always recommend our clients to fix it to the base with glue. Thanks to this, the stability of the parquet board also significantly increases, and any restrictions on the width/length of the laid surface and its area disappear.

When choosing an adhesive for laying parquet boards, remember that water-dispersed adhesive is not suitable for this type of work due to its significant moisture content. Use a two-part epoxy-polyurethane adhesive or a silane-based adhesive. The requirements for the base are the same as for laying block parquet. You can walk on the floor within a day after gluing.

TIP: Before you begin installation, unpack several packages of parquet boards and inspect the planks for differences in tone and texture. As the natural wood flooring industry says, “We can’t make wood grow straight.” Thus, one pack may contain planks that differ in the shade and uniformity of the structure of the living tree. By selecting planks from different packs, you can minimize the differences between parquet boards laid next to each other.

If you still have any questions about laying parquet, our specialists in Moscow are always ready to answer them by phone, advise and clearly show different options for laying parquet in the showroom of the Parquet House company, as well as go to the site for an objective assessment of the condition of the base for laying parquet and specific recommendations specifically for your case. When providing parquet laying services using parquet chemicals that we have tested, we provide a 1-year guarantee on the work performed. This time is enough to understand that the parquet work was carried out with high quality and in compliance with all technologies.

Laying parquet is our element!

Flooring is one of the essential elements interior It carries not only an aesthetic load, but also, if executed correctly, creates cozy atmosphere in room. The most common coating option is natural wood, more precisely wooden parquet. It (parquet) can be installed in almost any room, with the exception of the kitchen and bathroom.

Features of the installation procedure

It requires a lot of effort and time, but a floor covered with such material is durable and attractive in appearance.

Attention! Parquet can be done using either classical technology (stripes) or a more modern method - wicker, herringbone or Dutch.

Main types of parquet

The choice of one technology or another largely depends on the type of parquet. There are several such types today.

The most popular is piece parquet, so this article discusses its installation. It is worth remembering that what more difficult to install, the longer it takes and, accordingly, the more expensive it will cost.

Prices for different types of parquet boards

Parquet board

Laying methods

The choice of one or another method of laying parquet depends on the type of surface on which the installation will be carried out. There are several such methods:

• on a concrete screed;
• on ;
• on the subfloor.

Let's look at each of them.

To work, you will need the following tools (regardless of the type of coating):

• hammer;
• nails;
• marker;
• roulette;
• saw;
• jigsaw;
• wedges;
• drill;
• Grinder.

Step 1. Using an electronic moisture meter, surface humidity is measured (maximum value - 2%).

Step 2. The surface is primed using a special glue for parquet - plywood will be laid on this primer. The adhesive must be suitable for the specific type of primer. It is recommended to use rubber glue, since it is used most often.

Attention! The primer coat requires a minimum of eight hours to dry. Further work can be carried out only after this period has expired.

Step 3. If the humidity level exceeds 2%, a hydrobarrier is applied (a special moisture-repellent primer, which is applied in two layers with an hour break between them). The first layer of the barrier is sprinkled with quartz sand.

Step 4. Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood 1-1.8 cm thick are taken, each of them is sawn into four equal parts. It is important that when laying plywood there is a seam of approximately 5 mm.

Attention! The horizontality of the coating is checked by level. If it is uneven, then differences will form during installation.

Step 6. The installation procedure ends with scraping the surface. This can be done no earlier than a week after completion of the work.

First, sanding is carried out (using a special grinding machine), during which the surface is leveled and all contaminants remaining after installation are removed. Next, the cracks formed after thermal deformation of the wooden elements are puttied.

Attention! The entire surface of the coating is puttied.

To ensure that the color of the putty matches the color of the parquet, a special liquid is mixed with wood dust.

Step 7. After the putty has dried, all that remains is to apply final processing– . First, the room is protected from drafts, and all electrical appliances that could affect the humidity level are turned off. The parquet is varnished in several layers: the first - primer - is necessary to preserve the natural color of the material, the second - finishing - is applied only after the base layer has completely dried.

Attention! Parquet can be used not only in decorative purposes, but also to hide pipelines (more on this below).

Parquet flooring can be formed not only on a concrete screed, but also on joists. This installation method has certain advantages, including:

• absence of excess moisture in the room;
• increased sound and thermal insulation properties due to the fact that the gaps between the joists can be filled with one or another insulator;
• possibility of laying communications;
• high speed of conduction installation work.

The laying technology in this case is practically no different from that described above, except that the plywood is placed not on the screed, but on the joists.

Subfloor installation

This method of laying parquet is the cheapest and easiest to implement, primarily because there is no need to create a concrete screed or install joists. But this method also has its own characteristics and nuances, which you definitely need to know about in order to get a high-quality result.

1. The subfloor is made of tongue and groove wood.
2. It should not vibrate or make sounds during operation, that is, when walking.
3. Its surface should be flat (a mounting level will help).
4. The boards must be securely fixed both vertically and horizontally.
5. The floor surface should be coated with an antiseptic.

All installation options described should be carried out only after completion repair work in room. Allow at least a week to pass after any repairs that may affect humidity levels are completed. The humidity itself during operation should not exceed 55-60%, and the temperature in the room should not exceed 20-24ᵒС.

Attention! All described installation methods were performed using mechanical fastening technology. But there are other technologies that you should also know about.

Floating floor technology

In this case, no glue is used, so installation is carried out approximately twice as fast. Each plank has a groove on one side and a tenon on the other. This method of fixation is called a click system. A “floating floor” is very practical; in addition, if you move, the covering can be dismantled.

Attention! Sometimes on parquet boards arise . When using “dry” technology, a damaged board can be easily replaced even without the help of a specialist.

Using glue

This technology differs in that the grooves with tenons are glued together. The main thing you need to know is that you cannot buy glue on water based, otherwise the material will soon deform.

Glue must be applied along the entire length of each groove. If diagonal installation was chosen, then work begins from the corner, and if longitudinal, then from the wall farthest relative to the entrance door.

Attention! Diagonal installation looks more aesthetically pleasing, but it is associated with more costs (therefore, it will cost more) and installation difficulties.

Prices for flooring adhesives

Flooring Adhesives

The coating may develop stains that cannot be washed with a damp cloth. To remove such stains, special products are used, but there are also traditional methods– more gentle and no less effective.

Attention! It is unacceptable to use acetone in its pure form.

For a more detailed introduction to the installation technology, watch the video below.

Video - Do-it-yourself parquet installation

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its service life. Moreover, all manufacturers without exception indicate that finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying parquet boards are followed.

Developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many ways not only on the appearance, but also on the installation system. To significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new locking kits are being developed. Today we can distinguish the following types:

1. Classic tongue-and-groove connection or Lock.
2. Click hitch – connecting the slats at an angle of 10-30°, followed by pressing to fasten the slats together.
3. 5G system – volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the coupling rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the slats, and increases the service life of the coating.

The type of locking system determines how to lay parquet boards correctly. Each package of high-quality flooring material always contains detailed instructions on installation, answering all the questions of a beginner or an experienced master.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wooden covering. Includes:

1. "Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively with its own locks, without fastening to the base. This is the best option if you plan to lay parquet boards yourself.
2. Glue. One-component elastic compounds are used for polymer based(polyurethane, MS and others). The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement screed and dry precast screed made of chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
3. On the fastener. Used for rigid fixation of each plank to the base. In this case, special “parquet” (finishing) hardware, pneumatic pins (complete with a pneumatic gun) or classic dowel-nails are required.

The laying pattern for parquet boards is standard - offset by 1/3. That is, each subsequent row shifts relative to the previous one by a third of the length of the bar. This will allow you to form a strong, reliable and durable circular “banding” of all lamellas.

How to lay parquet boards: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

• Floors formed on the ground;
• Joists, if there are too damp or warm rooms under the base foundation (boiler room, boiler room, laundry room, basement, etc.);
• Water, soft electric or infrared heating systems;
• Beams made of cellular concrete.

The features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is imperative to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they cannot be laid on a “warm floor” system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying parquet boards:

Laying parquet boards with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

We will describe the installation process step by step.

Preparing the base

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed without exception. If the measurement results require floor leveling, then for mineral bases you can use:

• Self-leveling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum base;
• Dry prefabricated screed made from sheet materials (plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rod more than 2 m long and with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

• Adhesive compounds, if gluing parquet boards is intended;
• Strengthening compositions, if the coating is laid in a “floating” manner.

For a wooden base, the work pattern is slightly different. Irregularities (differences, “humps”) should be cut off or eliminated with a parquet sanding machine. Pits and chips must be smoothed out with elastic putties, and if there are creaks, the subfloor must be “pulled” to the base with screws or nails. In case of multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard sheets or plywood with a thickness of 16 mm. The top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparing for work

After completing the “wet” work, waterproofing and underlayment material is laid on the prepared surface under the parquet board. That is, the film is spread carefully on the floor, without creases, with an overlap of 15-25 cm, secured with adhesive tape. Then the sheet or roll backing is laid end-to-end. With the adhesive installation method, this step is skipped.

Since the parquet board must “acclimatize,” the packaged material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend that before starting installation work, warm up the floor heating system for 2 weeks, then turn it off 3-4 hours before installation. This will create the right indoor climate and avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, so variations in shade and texture may occur. There is no need to be afraid of this, it is better to turn it to your advantage - open several packages in advance, arrange the slats on the base and form a pattern that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to take careful measurements of the floor and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a scale diagram of the installation on a piece of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to shift the first row proportionally.

Flooring installation

Laying in a “floating” way starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: using a staple, the finished covering is moved and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the protruding part of the lock being cut off from the planks of the first row, then the first one is installed in the corner and installation begins along the end edge. The end plate is trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the remainder of the previous lamella. For parquet boards with a classic Click-lock, the end couplings are first connected, then the lengthwise joining is carried out with the obligatory tapping with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G format connections. They can be joined as necessary, both longitudinally and transversely, as demonstrated in the video below.

For some types of volumetric lock, it is not necessary to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to click the plates correctly.

The last row of boards must be carefully adjusted to size (cut), then assembled using end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outermost row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal clamp or wringer.

If the edge of the plank rests on a pipe or other similar obstacle, then mark the cutting line with a pencil, saw off a piece, and drill a hole with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive compound is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After completing the assembly, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually increasing the temperature, and the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors. The formation of gaps in openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing parquet boards using the adhesive method, the order of work will be slightly different:

1. Apply adhesive onto the prepared base and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
2. Cut off the edge of the boards of the first row.
3. Assemble the coating in the standard manner, tamping it with a block and loading it with a weight for better adhesion or fixing it with hardware that is “driven” into the locking groove at an angle of 45°. In the same way, parquet is fastened to the base using nails or studs from a pneumatic gun without an adhesive compound.

After completing all work, many manufacturers recommend washing the floor by special means for parquet and parquet boards, so that the wax they contain reliably seals all joints.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done and you will receive offers by email with prices from construction crews and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

The service life of the coating, its performance, and appearance depend on the quality of the parquet installation. Therefore, when deciding to carry out installation yourself, you must first thoroughly study the features of the process, draw up an action plan, and prepare a set of specialized tools.

The bonus will be a thematic video “laying parquet: video with step by step instructions”, which clearly teaches the correct actions, which can be found at the end of the article. As for the parquet itself, everything is simple here. The piece is its most popular option, practical and easy to use, secured using a tongue-and-groove locking system with plank thicknesses from 15 to 22 mm, lengths up to 50 cm and widths up to 75 mm. Below are several options for laying the material.

Laying block parquet is almost as simple as laying parquet boards, but there can be many more pattern options

Regardless of the type of installation of block parquet (there are several installation methods), an important condition is the correct preparation of the base. The base can be made on the basis of a concrete screed, cement screed or logs. If this is the third option, then the first layer is formed from roofing felt, covering it with logs and plywood to level the surface, heat and sound insulation of the coating. In addition, plywood sheets as a supporting layer guarantee high level strength of the finished floor.

If we're talking about about a concrete screed, the surface of the base is carefully leveled with self-leveling mixtures, if necessary, sanded for additional evenness, cleaned and dried. Square-shaped plywood sheets are also used as an intermediate layer, fixed to the base with dowel nails.

It is important not to forget about a gap of at least 1 mm between the sheets in case the material expands under the influence of temperature changes and moisture. Another gap of strategic importance - expansion joint between the wall surface and plywood - at least 2 mm. For convenience, wedges are used at this stage, which are removed during installation of the skirting boards.

This option for the intermediate layer is also possible

The cement screed used as a base for a parquet floor must also be dry, clean, level and practical. Height differences of more than a millimeter per two square meters are not allowed. Floor humidity should be between 2% and 4%.

To improve the adhesion of parquet to the floor, it would be advisable to treat the base with primer mixtures before installation. The glue and primer must be combined with each other - the quality of adhesion depends on this. When humidity levels exceed the norm, a polyurethane composition is used to create a waterproofing barrier. Primer mixtures are applied using a spatula or roller.

Just as in the previous two cases, it would be correct to lay sheets of plywood between the cement base and the parquet to improve sound and heat insulation properties. Optimal parameters intermediate material- 1.5×1.5 meters with a thickness of 12 mm. The plywood is secured to the base with self-tapping screws or parquet glue; as an option, the use of screws is also allowed, although this method is not the most practical, since over time the floor under the parquet will become loose and cause squeaking.

It is not necessary to make the entire floor from scratch; you can often use an existing one

Another option for installing parquet is on an old wooden floor. Here, work can begin only after careful preparation of the base, solving the problems of creaking, dips, deformations and other defects.

Before laying parquet on an old floor, it is dismantled in damaged areas, repaired, sanded, cleaned and dried. Plywood sheets In this case, they will not be needed as an intermediate layer, since its role will be played by the wood base itself.

Options for installing block parquet - what methods are used

Most often, laying parquet with your own hands is done using the floating method. This option is the simplest, since the floor elements are equipped with a special locking system and are quite simply attached to each other without dust, dirt or extra effort. The joining of the planks occurs according to the “tenon and groove” principle. When performing installation using this system, you need to remember that the floor is not fixed to the base, which means it will be especially susceptible to changes in the microclimate in the room. Hence the name - floating installation method.

To prevent deformation of the coating, you should not forget about the gap between the planks of the first row and the wall (at least 1 cm), which is subsequently masked by baseboards.

Block parquet strip with grooves

The boards are laid using the floating method on a layer of vapor barrier and sound insulation. Convenient to use for this cork material, the porous structure of which increases its thermal insulation properties.

The advantage of the floating method is the high speed of installation, ease of operation, absence of dust and dirt, as well as the ability to repair the floor in certain areas during operation if necessary.

When laying block parquet on a plywood floor using glue, you need to be careful so that there are no cracks or gaps left.

The technology for laying block parquet with glue will be somewhat different. First of all, this option involves preparing materials for the work. This is necessarily a high-quality one- or two-component parquet glue (preferably water-based), a roller, brushes, a spatula for application, as well as a drill with an attachment to obtain a homogeneous mass.

The floorboards are mounted on a base coated with glue (only the area for one row is prepared), with them simultaneously connected using a locking system. Just as in the previous case, leave a gap of 1 cm between the wall and the planks of the first row, driving plastic or wooden wedges in this place.

Basic technologies for installing parquet flooring - laying nuances

In addition to options for fastening methods, there are also different ways installations that affect the appearance of the finished floor. The most commonly used types of masonry are:

• deck;
• "herringbone";
• squares;
• mosaic;
• diamonds;
• Sheremetyevo star.

Let's look at the differences between parquet laying in each option.

Deck laying consists of parquet boards laid out longitudinally with each next row by half. This installation method helps to increase the level of floor rigidity. They mount the dies from the wall opposite the door, gradually moving towards the exit.

To obtain a floor that visually represents a seamless glossy surface, the slats are attached longitudinally to the light entering the window. Before installation, the dies of the first row are laid out taking into account the distance from the wall, marking the cutting line from the last element.

For strong fixation, before installing each subsequent row, at the junction of the connection of two planks, connect the board of the next row, loosening it slightly to align the connection horizontally. Do this with all joints. A jigsaw is suitable for sawing planks. Such a tool will not damage the surface of the elements.

Parquet can also be laid diagonally using the deck method, having previously drawn a diagram on the base for ease of installation.

Deck laying looks interesting, despite the simplicity of the design

You can correctly lay parquet in a herringbone pattern using planks that have tongues on two corner sides and grooves on the other two sides. Installation is carried out in such a way that the connections are in the same direction.

The planks can be attached at an angle to the walls of 45 or 90 degrees. Installation begins with the lighthouse “herringbone”, that is, with the laying of the first two rows to set the main line. The initial “herringbone” must be perfectly level, so it is recommended to use a fishing line or a drawing to align the dies. The parquet is installed using glue with additional fixation using a locking system.

Parquet, laid with mosaic or wicker, consists of squares or rectangles of tiles. Posting a drawing is quite simple. To do this, the planks are laid out in the form required geometric figure, lining them up perpendicular to each other with each subsequent one shifted to the side for a checkerboard effect.

Christmas tree laying is one of the most popular

There are many options for laying in this way, starting from a simple mosaic with alternating a circle of planks in one direction with a circle inside in a perpendicular direction and ending with crosses, stripes, etc. Just as in the previous case, installation begins with laying the beacon row. The figures can be placed at an angle of 45 degrees, which implies a large consumption of parquet.

You can lay parquet yourself using the Sheremetyevskaya Star technology using rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped elements. Mosaic laid on the floor in this way will decorate the interior. To achieve the desired effect, installation is carried out according to a pre-drawn pattern.

How to work with artistic parquet - features

Artistic parquet is a subtype of classic piece parquet with patterns formed by combining blocks with different parameters, colors, shades. These can be boards from one type of wood, or from several, different in appearance, but harmonizing with each other in properties.

Covering based on artistic parquet has a number of advantages compared to conventional flooring:

• the surface looks unusual and original, allowing you to emphasize the individuality of the interior in the room;
• the finished floor does not require use additional elements decor, as it is a holistic harmonious composition;
• service life exceeds several decades, subject to compliance with the rules of care and use, preserving appearance and performance qualities;
• the coating is environmentally friendly and safe;
• high level of heat and sound insulation properties;
• ease of care;
• possibility of carrying out repair and restoration work.

Correct installation of artistic parquet allows you to create interesting geometric patterns in a simple way- by connecting the dies into a tongue-and-groove pattern. Floor elements may differ in fiber pattern due to various options sawed. Mount artistic parquet after finishing the walls and ceilings, fastening with communications.

An interesting pattern of artistic parquet always attracts attention and adds unusualness to the room.

During the work, the room is maintained at optimal temperature and humidity conditions. The temperature is within 18-23 degrees Celsius above zero, humidity - no more than 60%.

As for the installation itself, it consists of the same steps as the installation of conventional piece parquet. On initial stage prepare the base - it must be dry, clean and even, after which it is treated with primer mixtures, and a layer of thermal and waterproofing is arranged. The boards are fastened using one of the above methods, choosing the optimal installation option from ready-made schemes or working according to an individual plan.

On final stage the coating is puttied, sanded, primed and varnished with a number of layers from two to seven. As an option, you can consider a coating based on oil mixtures or mastic, but in the case of artistic parquet, it is the varnish layer that will be most appropriate, since it can not only protect the floor, but also emphasize its luxury and elegance.

Like any other parquet floor, artistic parquet requires preliminary preparation and proper care to maintain its integrity and appearance.

The flooring market is amazingly diverse. But many owners of cottages and apartments continue to prefer the good old parquet floor, characterized by naturalness and luxury. This finish is difficult to install and is not cheap, but it is distinguished by its aesthetics and elegance. The main thing is to place it correctly without haste. Make even small mistakes when self-installation parquet cannot be installed, then it will be almost impossible to fix anything.

Preparing the base

Parquet flooring is a multi-layer structure consisting of an underlayment and a top layer of wooden planks. Laying parquet is allowed on concrete screeds, joists and plank or wood-based flooring. However, this can only be done on a dried base and with horizontal gaps of no more than 2 mm.

If a layer of CFRP was poured to level the floor in the room, then after the usual month the concrete will have to be left to dry for another one to two weeks. You cannot immediately lay wooden parquet on a wet subfloor. The humidity of the latter should not exceed 4%, otherwise the floor finish made from piece dies will then swell.

The simplest and reliable option installation of parquet - on a flooring made of moisture-resistant plywood or fiberboard. This leveling almost completely eliminates sagging of the coating and the appearance of creaking boards. Wherein wood board GVLV can be replaced.

Only on top of the sheet of moisture-resistant gypsum fiber will it be necessary to additionally lay a separating layer of fabric multimol. Without this substrate, the parquet finish will sooner or later deteriorate due to different moisture expansion of gypsum fiber boards and wood.

Classic parquet installation

Laying methods

There are four technologies for laying parquet:

1. Using nails.
2. For glue.
3. For bitumen mastic.
4. In the form of a floating floor.

With nails

The nail method is used when installing parquet boards and dies on joists or a wooden base. In this case, the nails are driven not from the top, but at an angle into the end.

The resulting floor covering is highly reliable and durable, and is also easier to sand. A sanding machine is more likely to knock parquet flooring that is not nailed down from the floor structure than one that is fixed with nails.

Among the disadvantages of this technology is the higher labor intensity of the work and the difficulty of subsequent repairs. After a few years, it will be extremely difficult to remove one nailed plate from the prefabricated covering. It is possible to remove the varnish from it, sand it again and varnish it. But about replacing wood with small area It’s better to immediately forget such a finish.

On glue

The installation option with glue is easier to implement independently. Parquet can be laid in this way either on a screed or on a wooden base. The adhesive composition is applied to them with a notched trowel, and then parquet is laid on this place. The resulting coating is characterized by increased strength, but is demanding in the choice of glue.

Not all adhesive mixtures are suitable for working with wood. This is not laying tiles in the bathroom, where you can use several options for ceramic mortar. If the glue is not selected correctly, the parquet will lose its beautiful view as a result of an irreversible change in the color of the wood from which the boards are made.

Installation with glue

Laying parquet with bitumen mastic

Application bitumen mastic goes back a long way. It was originally used when laying parquet in palaces and noble estates. However, now professional parquet floorers rarely work with bitumen, since after a few years, due to the natural aging process, it loses its elasticity and begins to crumble.

Floating method

The floating design involves the use of tongue-and-groove end locks. Nails with glue are not used here. This leads to cheaper and easier installation of parquet flooring, but the finish is not too hard and durable.

Using this technology, laminate flooring is usually laid on a wooden floor with a preliminary laying of a polyethylene foam backing. But it is often used when laying parquet boards.

Floating installation

Types of installation

You can lay parquet yourself:

• herringbone;
• in a take-off run, with a shift (a la “deck”);
• braided;
• squares from boards different breeds tree.

Herringbone

Laying herringbone parquet is more labor-intensive, but produces a finish with a beautiful and symmetrical pattern. This method of laying out allows for maximum unloading of individual dies due to a more uniform distribution of pressure from above, which reduces the risk of cracking of the coating at the seams.

Herringbone styling

Takeoff

The deck version is the easiest to install. It is allowed to move the dies by 1/4, 1/3 or 1/2 of their length, or even in a chaotic manner to form an asymmetrical pattern on the floor.

Laying out in a run

Network

The “braided” layout allows you to achieve a three-dimensional effect in the floor design. However, this method requires the use of parquet boards from at least two different types of wood, which usually leads to an increase in the cost of the coating. But ready-made decor It will look not just beautiful, but elegant and luxurious.

Braided laying

Squares

To lay parquet in squares, dies will also need to be taken from several rocks of different shades. This layout is distinguished by aesthetics and elegance, but is very demanding on the skill of the parquet floorer. If the “squares” of individual boards are made too large, they will visually put pressure and reduce the space of the room. And excessively small “squares” can get lost in the interior.

Laying in squares

Floor treatment after installation

It is not enough to lay parquet boards on the base. This is only part of the installation process for the floor in question. Then the dies still need to be sanded and varnished. When analyzing the technology of how to properly lay laminate flooring, you don’t have to think about this point, since laminated finishes already have protective layer from varnish. But in the case of installing piece parquet, you cannot do without sanding the wood and then varnishing it.

Sanding parquet

If the parquet flooring was laid with glue, then it is allowed to sand it only after 1–2 weeks. The adhesive must first completely harden, securely fixing the dies. Initial scraping and subsequent finer grinding are carried out using special equipment.

In this case, the sanding paper is first applied with large size grains, and then with less and less.

If there are cracks or depressions on the parquet boards, they are sealed with a wood dust primer before final sanding. This is done so that the final varnish comes out smooth and without visible flaws.

Sanding parquet

Varnish application

Parquet varnish is selected depending on the type of wood and future loads on the floor. It comes on water-based, alkyd, polyurethane and other bases. There is a wide choice of paints and varnishes for parquet wood.