In April in middle lane in the second half of the month, sap flow and swelling of the buds of fruit trees begins. The time for urgent spring work is coming.
As soon as all the snow melts and dries upper layer land, put the area in order: rake up last year’s leaves, branches, tops and put them in compost heap.
If weather permits, begin tilling the soil. It is recommended to dig the ground only when it is completely dry.
Remove the strapping from the tree trunks and repeat whitewashing the trunks with lime mortar. You can whiten trunks and branches with freshly slaked lime (2-3 kg per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 0.5 kg of copper sulfate. Instead of lime, you can use ground chalk, adding wood glue to the solution for better adhesion (50-100 g per 10 liters of water). Whitewashing trees not only protects plants from frost damage and sunburn, but also destroys pests in the wintering stage, pathogenic fungi, and removes mosses and lichens.
It is worth spraying against wintering pests while the buds are not yet swollen. Fruit trees, black currant bushes, gooseberries and raspberries can be treated with a solution of nitrafen (300 g per 10 liters of water) against aphids and pathogenic fungi. At the same time, the soil under trees and bushes is sprayed with nitrafen.
Later, at the end of the month, when the buds begin to bloom (along the “green cone”), to combat scab, fruit rot and other fungal diseases in gardens they carry out the so-called blue spraying, that is, treating pear and apple trees with Bordeaux mixture (300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of freshly slaked lime per 10 liters of water).
They clean the trunks from dead bark, and heal wounds caused by breaks, damage by hares and mice. First they are processed copper sulfate(50 g per 1 l), then the damage is sealed with putty (6 parts nigrol + 2 parts molten paraffin + 2 parts molten rosin) with a gauze bandage.
Early spring - best time for planting fruit trees. Spring planting is especially important for cherries; when planted in the fall, they often freeze out. Planted plants must be whitened, well watered and mulched. Start breeding berry bushes layerings and cuttings.
It's time to start grafting and re-grafting fruit trees. Before the start of sap flow, they are grafted using the “split”, “lateral cut” and “wedge” methods. “Bridges” are placed on the damaged parts of the trunks - healthy, well-developed, not damaged by frost, last year’s annual cuttings of any winter-hardy variety. On a trunk up to 10 cm thick, 4-5 bridges-shoots are placed at intervals of 5-7 cm around the circumference.
They examine the blackcurrant buds and, if swollen round buds are found - carriers of one of the dangerous pests - bud mites, break them out. Branches affected by glass or with a large number of swollen buds are cut out. The collected infected buds and branches are burned. Spray before buds bloom, affected powdery mildew and anthracnose, currant and gooseberry bushes to choose from: nitrafen, karbofos or Bordeaux mixture.
Weed and loosen bushes (currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, raspberries, blackberries, Japanese quince, hazelnut, hazelnut, cherry, etc.), removing dry, thin, recumbent, too old, broken, thickening branches. Untied raspberries and blackberries. At the same time, trim the ends of the branches, cutting out dry ones infected with stem galice, and shorten the frozen branches to live buds.
Before the buds awaken, tie raspberry shoots onto trellises - this way the plants will be better illuminated by the sun and the berries will ripen earlier. The garter will also make caring for plants easier.
Strawberry plots are cleared of tendrils and old leaves, collected and burned. Fertilizers are applied to the strawberries and the soil is loosened. Plants that are very bare, protruding from the soil, are pestering. Young bushes are planted. Dead bushes are replaced with new ones (stored in the fall). During the period of possible frosts, the strawberries are covered.
The most important job of a gardener in April is to prepare for protection. orchard from spring frosts. During the period from the opening of the buds to the end of the formation of the ovaries, the gardener must monitor the air temperature in order to prepare in a timely manner to protect the flowers and ovaries. One of the oldest and most accessible ways to protect the garden from frost is smoking. A smoke screen helps retain the heat released by the soil during the night in the garden. Therefore, already at the beginning of the month, brushwood, straw manure, peat, turf, fallen leaves, potato tops, sawdust, wood chips and other materials are prepared for the construction of smoke heaps. Prepared smoke piles are set on fire on the leeward side when the temperature drops to + 2°C. Most low temperatures during frosts they occur before sunrise.
In the garden
When the snow melts and the ground dries out a little, it’s time to prepare the soil for sowing seeds garden crops. Cultivate and harrow all the beds dug in the fall with a rake. Dig up beds and plots that were not dug up in the fall with the addition of compost, superphosphate and ash.
In the first half of April, it is time to sow green crops: dill, lettuce, watercress, cilantro, mustard greens, Chinese cabbage, as well as radishes, peas, beans, sunflowers.
At the end of the month, seeds of cold-resistant plants are sown: carrots, onions, parsley, radishes, lettuce, dill, parsnips, etc. Almost simultaneously, turnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas are sown and onion sets are planted, a little later - beets. Starting from the second decade, sow cucumber, plant early tomato under film covers and in greenhouses.
If the grown seedlings of early white cabbage and cauliflower have 5-6 leaves and have been hardened, they are planted in late April - early May in open ground.
If in the previous year mole crickets and wireworms annoyed you, do not forget with the onset warm days spread out poisoned baits.
In an ornamental garden and flower garden
After the snow has thawed and the soil has warmed up, the condition of the lawns is checked at a depth of 5-10 cm. In places where plants have fallen due to freezing or getting wet, grasses are reseeded. To do this, dig up the soil in the fallout areas, level it and sow lawn grass seeds at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2. The crops are covered with a rake, compacting the top with the back side, and watered from a watering can with a mesh nozzle.
With roses, hydrangeas and others ornamental plants remove covers, unhill and loosen the soil around the bushes.
Roses are pruned: for remontant roses, 6-8 buds are left on each shoot, for hybrid tea and polyantha roses - 2-3 buds, for climbing and park roses, only dead, broken and weak branches are removed.
Transplanted ornamental trees and shrubs. In flower beds (beds, borders) seedlings of viola, daisies, forget-me-nots, calendulas and other annuals that are resistant to spring frosts are planted.
At the end of April, sweet peas and matthiola can be sown on the plot, the seedlings of which can withstand short-term frosts. During this period, bulbous perennial early flowering plants are cared for: daffodils, tulips, hyacinths. They are fed with mineral fertilizers per 1 m2: urea 20 g, superphosphate 20 g and potassium salt 15 g. After this, the area around the emerging sprouts is loosened, and if it is dry, watered.
In the last ten days, plant germinated gladioli bulbs (distance from each other 10-15 cm, between rows 20-25 cm). Children of gladioli should be planted before mid-April on a compacted mesh (3-5 15 cm).
Before planting, soak the bulbs and children in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. The bulbs can be divided into 2-3 parts depending on the number of sprouts, treating the wound surface with brilliant green or charcoal powder. Plant in a hole up to 10 cm deep with the bottom down or on the edge and even upside down. Gladioli should be grown in one place for no more than two years.
Uncut the climatis and lift specimens with uncut vines in the fall onto trellises, cut off the dry ends, and fill with nitrogen fertilizer.
If the perennials in your garden have become overgrown and shredded, it's time to divide them. Trim the edges of the bush with a sharp knife and carefully remove it from the ground. Sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal.
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When the snow melts and the ground dries out a little, it’s time to prepare the soil for sowing garden seeds. It is necessary to cultivate and harrow all the beds that were dug in the fall using a rake. The same beds and plots that were not dug up in the fall need to be dug up with the addition of compost, superphosphate and ash.
Perennial crops should be freed from mulching materials, loosened, fed and covered with portable film structures to obtain an early harvest.
The first half of April is the time to sow green crops, such as Chinese cabbage, lettuce, dill, watercress, cilantro, mustard greens, as well as sunflowers, peas, and beans. And at the end of the month, seeds of cold-resistant plants are sown: carrots, onions, parsley, parsnips, radishes, lettuce, dill, etc. At the same time, turnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas, onion sets are sown, and a little later - beets. From the beginning of the second decade, sow a cucumber, plant an early tomato under film covers.
It's time to put film on greenhouses and film shelters. Prepare the new beds accordingly (with slate edging).
Garden work in April
In most of Russia, spring begins in April. In the second half of the month in the central zone of our country, fruit trees begin to sap flow and buds to swell. The time for especially important spring work is coming. At the beginning of April, all early spring plant care work that was not completed in March, for example, due to bad weather, should be completed.
Once the last snow has melted and the top layer of soil has dried sufficiently, tidy up the area: rake up the remaining last year's leaves, tops, branches, fill the cucumber beds with them, or put them in a compost heap. If weather conditions allow, start cultivating the soil - the sooner you loosen it, destroying the crust formed after the snow melts, the more soil moisture you save for plants. The soil should only be dug up if it is completely dry. You need to dig to a depth that is half as deep as in the fall, otherwise you can return the layer to its previous position.
Remove the strapping from the tree trunks and if the lime is washed away, it is necessary to repeat the whitewashing of the trunks with lime mortar. You can also whiten the trunks and branches with freshly slaked lime (at the rate of 2-3 kg per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 0.5 kg of copper sulfate. Lime can be replaced with ground chalk, adding skim milk (2 liters per 10 liters of water) or wood glue (50-100 g per 10 liters of water) to the solution for better adhesion. Clay and mullein are also added. For better adhesion, these additives should also be mixed with lime whitewash. Such an event will protect the plants not only from frost and sunburn, but will also additionally destroy pests in the wintering stage, pathogenic fungi, and cleanse them of mosses and lichens.
If for some reason you were unable to spray against the wintering stages of pests in March, then it is not too late to do it now, before the buds have yet swelled. All fruit trees, gooseberry bushes, black currants and raspberries can be treated with a solution of nitrafen (300 g per 10 liters of water) against pathogenic fungi and aphids. At the same time, the soil under trees and shrubs is also sprayed with nitrafen.
Somewhat later, at the end of April, when the buds begin to bloom, to combat scab, fruit rot and other fungal diseases in the gardens, pear and apple trees are treated with Bordeaux mixture (300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of freshly slaked lime per 10 liters of water).
At the same time, thickening, dry branches and tops (growing vertically upward) growing deep into the crown are cut out, and long ones are shortened.
The trunks are cleared of dead bark, and wounds caused by breakages and damage by hares and mice are healed. Hollows and cancerous wounds are cleaned - they are first treated with copper sulfate (50 g per 1 liter), then the hollows are sealed with cement, in cancerous wounds - with a mixture: putty (6 parts of nigrol + 2 parts of molten paraffin + 2 parts of molten rosin) with a gauze bandage. . To get rid of the apple blossom beetle, trapping belts made of corrugated paper, burlap soaked in karbofos (at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water).
The best time to plant fruit trees is early spring, and spring planting is especially important for cherries, since when planted in the fall they often freeze out. Planted plants should be whitened, watered abundantly and mulched. At the same time, they begin to propagate berry bushes by cuttings and layering.
It's time to start grafting and re-grafting fruit trees. Before sap flow begins, they are grafted using the “split”, “lateral cut” and “wedge” methods. “Bridges” are installed on the damaged parts of the trunks - thus, healthy, well-developed, unfrozen last year’s annual cuttings of any winter-hardy variety are grafted. They do this based on the calculation - on a standard up to 10 cm thick they place 4-5 bridges-shoots with an interval of 5-7 cm around the circumference.
Blackcurrant buds must be examined and if swollen round buds are found (carriers of one of the dangerous pests - bud mites), they are broken out. Branches affected by glass or with a large number of swollen buds are also cut out. All infected buds and branches that were collected must be burned. Currant and gooseberry bushes affected by powdery mildew and anthracnose are sprayed with either nitrafen, karbofos, or Bordeaux mixture before the buds open. They weed and loosen bushes - currants, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, blackberries, Japanese quince, hazelnuts, while removing dry, thin, recumbent, overly old, broken, thickening branches. Raspberries and blackberries need to be untied. They also trim the ends of the branches, cutting out dry ones infected with stem galice, and shorten the frozen branches to live buds. Before the buds awaken, tie the raspberry shoots onto trellises - in this case, the plants will be better illuminated by the sun and the berries will ripen a little earlier. In addition, the garter will make caring for plants in general easier.
Areas with strawberries need to be cleared of tendrils and old leaves, collected and burned. Fertilizers are applied to the strawberries and the soil is loosened. Additionally, those plants that are very bare and protrude from the soil are hilled up. Young bushes are planted. All that remains is to replace the dead bushes with new ones (stored in the fall). If frost is still possible, the strawberries should be covered.
One of the most important jobs for a gardener in April is preparing to protect the orchard from spring frosts. In the period of time between the opening of the buds and the end of the formation of the ovaries, the gardener must monitor the air temperature in order to be prepared to protect the flowers and ovaries. Most affordable way protecting the garden from frost - smoking. A smoke screen helps retain heat in the garden, which is given off by the soil during the night. In this regard, already at the beginning of the month you should prepare brushwood, straw manure, turf, peat, fallen leaves, potato tops, sawdust, wood chips and other materials for making smoke heaps.
Work in the ornamental garden, flower garden in April
When the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up, the condition of the lawns is checked at a depth of 5-10 cm. In areas where plants have fallen due to freezing (or getting wet), you need to reseed grass - the soil in the areas where the plants have fallen is dug up, leveled and lawn grass seeds are sown at the rate of 6-10 g per 1 m2. Then the crops are covered with a rake, compacting the top with the back side, and watered from a watering can with a mesh nozzle.
Coverings are removed from ornamental plants, such as roses, hydrangeas and others, and the soil around the bushes is loosened and loosened.
In addition, roses are pruned: for remontant roses, 6-8 buds are left on each shoot, for hybrid teas and polyanthas - 2-3 buds, for climbing and park roses, only dead, broken and simply weak branches are removed.
At this time, ornamental trees and shrubs are replanted. In flower beds (beds, borders) you can plant seedlings of daisies, forget-me-nots, violas, calendulas and other annuals that are resistant to spring frosts.
Towards the end of the month, you can sow sweet peas and matthiola, the seedlings of which can withstand short-term frosts. At the same time, they take care of bulbous perennial early-flowering plants: tulips, hyacinths, daffodils. They should be fed with mineral fertilizers per 1 m2: urea 20 g, superphosphate 20 g, potassium salt 15 g. Next, the soil around the emerging sprouts should be loosened, and if it is dry, watered.
In the last ten days, germinated gladioli bulbs are planted (distance from each other 10-15 cm, between rows 20-25 cm). Children of gladioli must be planted before mid-April on a compacted mesh (3-5-15 cm).
Immediately before planting, it is recommended to soak the bulbs and children in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. The bulbs can be divided into 2-3 parts depending on the number of sprouts, while treating the wound surface with brilliant green or charcoal powder. Planted in a hole up to 10 cm deep with the bottom down or on the edge and even upside down. Gladioli can be grown in one place for no more than three years, or better yet, two.
Among other things, during this period you should loosen the climatis and raise specimens with vines that have not been pruned in the fall onto trellises, cut off the dry ends, and fill them with nitrogen fertilizer.
If the perennials in your garden have grown and become shredded, this means it’s time to divide them. Use a knife to trim the edges of the bush and carefully remove it from the ground. Charcoal sprinkle on the cut areas.
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Gardeners and gardeners in the Moscow region have already opened a new summer season. For beginners, the primary question now arises: what important work in the garden and vegetable garden in April 2019 in the Moscow region you need to carry out and where to start.
April days have been quite warm and sunny in the last few years. Nature is actively waking up, while summer residents are immediately bombarded with many different matters of paramount importance. The main thing to remember is that everything spring work on personal plot must be completed on time in order to subsequently obtain a good harvest.
From April 1 to April 5 you can sow seeds late cabbage, and after another five days - medium-growth cabbage seeds. In the garden at this time it is worth digging grooves in the snow to drain melt water from the greenhouses. Also we begin sanitary pruning of pome trees: trim diseased and withered parts of branches to healthy tissue; clean the wounds with a sharp garden knife and cover them with garden varnish or paint over them oil paint on natural drying oil.
In early April, sow flower crops for seedlings: amaranth, anhusa, bartonia, marigolds, gillyflower, legusia, nemophila, felicia, Drummond's phlox, chrysanthemum keeled, sowing and crowned, zinnia, echium.
During the same period pick up the first time, March sowings and the second time, February sowings. For seedlings, use peat pots or paper cups with a height and diameter of approximately 5-7 cm. Sprinkle sterile sand over the substrate in a layer of 0.5 cm.
From 15 to 20 April sowing tomato seeds for open ground . The exact date should be chosen in accordance with the gardener’s lunar sowing calendar.
In the last ten days, taking into account weather conditions, you can start first sowing. It is worth starting with light soils (sandy and sandy loam), as they are ready for sowing earlier. It is easy to determine the readiness of the soil: if a lump of earth taken in a fist and thrown from chest height crumbles into several lumps, the time has come.
We can start prepare the soil for sowing. It is advisable to water the beds in greenhouses with a solution of the “Baikal EM-1” fertilizer in a ratio of 1:100, add ash or artificial mineral fertilizers, loosen with a flat cutter, level with a rake.
From April 25, you can start sowing seeds of carrots, parsley, turnips, dill, leaf and head lettuce, radishes, watercress, onion sets, seedless cauliflower and kohlrabi.
At the beginning of April in the garden you can carry out formative and species-varietal pruning fruit trees and berry bushes. If pruning of fruit trees and berry bushes is not completed in the snow, it can be continued after the soil has dried a little. Do not be alarmed by the sight of swollen buds on the branches.
After the snow has completely melted, you need to add nitrogen fertilizer (urea or ammonium nitrate). Fertilizers are scattered over the surface of the soil.
We inspect fruit trees for areas of bark damaged by mice or hares. After detection, wounds are disinfected with a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate, and then, when the surface is dry, they must be wrapped in black film so that light and water do not penetrate. If there is no black film, then you can use regular film, but at the same time shade the wound with at least newsprint folded in 2-3 layers. If the bark is damaged along the entire circumference, graft with a bridge.
If the trees were seriously ill last season with scab or fruit rot, carry out "blue spray" 3% Bordeaux mixture. However, do not abuse this remedy: the accumulation of copper in the soil in excess can be harmful.
It's time to start grafting or regrafting of fruit trees(if you want to change the variety or repair the tree if necessary). If there are trees of non-winter-hardy varieties in the garden that freeze above the trunk, then they need to be re-grafted. Trees from 3 years of age to 10 years are suitable for this operation.
At the end of April, you can make cuttings from currants for the purpose of reproduction. The cultivation of strawberry plantings also begins. First of all, remove all last year's leaves. With your left hand you grab the leaves located on one side of the row, and with your right hand you use a garden knife to cut their petioles closer to the base of the bush. After removing the leaves, the ground must be mulched, for example, with peat.
When the soil in the garden has completely thawed (a shovel goes into it without difficulty), start pruning roses. Unplant them, leave 3-4 of the strongest, healthiest green shoots and cut them short (by 2-3 buds). Cut vigorous varieties longer - by 4-6 buds. Cut weak, broken, blackened or spotted stems to the base. Cut varieties with erect shoots to the outer bud, and spreading ones to the inner bud.
Heavy and medium pruning is used for hybrid tea roses, as well as floribunda, grandiflora, polyantha, miniature and semi-climbing roses that bloom on shoots current year. Long shoots climbing roses just shorten it a little and cut out any very old, weak or broken ones. Flowers in this group are formed on last year's shoots, just like in park roses (they are pruned in the same way).
Gardening work in April 2019, video
At the beginning of April, gardeners have a lot of work ahead of them. You need to have time to trim trees and shrubs, ventilate winter shelters, protect plants from sunburn, sow seedlings, and care for perennials and the lawn.
Tree pruning in spring
The crown of fruit trees and shrubs must be pruned in the period between the melting of snow and the moment the buds swell. Some gardeners underestimate spring pruning. In fact, this is a very important matter. Thanks to simple pruning, you can improve the quality of fruits and the yield of trees, as well as regulate their growth.The degree of pruning depends on the age of the trees and shrubs. The frequency of pruning is also important. If you resorted to it from time to time, you will have to tinker a lot.
Ventilation
Ventilation of hydrangeas, roses, and other heat-loving plants sheltered for the winter must begin in mid- or late March. It all depends on the weather conditions. For ventilation, you need to choose sunny days with above-zero temperatures. The covering that protects the plantings must first be lifted little by little and only over time increase access fresh air. Covered plantings should gradually get used to the new temperature conditions so that they don't feel stressed.Protection from sunburn and frost
At the beginning of spring, plants are at high risk of sunburn. This is especially true for conifers. Their burns, as a rule, appear only on the open part of the crown, which faces the sun and is not covered by snow. After a burn, the needles turn red, often occupying most of the crown. To prevent this from happening, do not be lazy to throw snow from the paths onto the bare part alpine slide. For tall conifers that cannot be covered with snow, spruce branches are suitable. It needs to be fixed on the plant in tiers from bottom to top.Lawn care in spring
The beginning of March is characterized by alternating frosts and thaws. These weather conditions are dangerous for lawns. Snow that has melted in the sun with the onset of night frosts is easily covered with an ice crust, which complicates air access to the lawn. Due to the fact that the snow has not completely melted, unsightly bald spots may appear on the lawn. To prevent this from happening, break the ice crust as it appears.Caring for perennials in spring
Particular attention should be paid to perennials when the snow has completely melted. It is necessary to remove dead shoots and leaves from the plantings. Also follows on on a regular basis carry out preventive measures to combat diseases and pests of perennials.Sowing seedlings
Sowing seedlings is another important task for a summer resident in early spring. An excellent time for sowing many annuals is the third ten days of March. Keep in mind that the soil for seedlings may have different composition, but it must be fresh, that is, not previously used for growing plants. You should not fry or overheat the soil, since this process also kills the necessary10.04.2018
Spring is coming full swing, and even those summer residents who canned their suburban areas for the winter, they make their first forays into nature. There is enough work in the garden in April in the Moscow region, so it’s time to gather all your strength and get down to business.
What to do in the garden in April
Get out
When all the snow has melted and the soil has dried out a little, you can rake away the debris that has accumulated over the winter, collect the remaining leaves from last year, remove the winter bindings on the trees, remove the spruce branches that covered the perennials, and remove the remains of dry leaves and stems of perennial flowers. If some bushes were pinned to the ground, then it’s time to free them.
Leaves should be removed from the lawn with a sharp rake. As a result, you will not only clean up the mess, but also aerate the lawn.
Remove heaps filled with moles, loosen the soil in large bald spots, add fertile soil and sow new seeds lawn grass. In those places where the lawn has begun to spill over into paths and flower beds, remove the excess with a sharp shovel or hoe and level the edges.
Perform pruning and processing of trees and shrubs
If you did not prune your trees and shrubs last month, now is still time to safely remove diseased, dry and frozen branches. It is pruning that will ensure your garden’s health and rich harvest; the trees will retain their youth and decorative appearance longer.
Take a walk through the garden and carefully examine the trees. Large cracks and hollows that appear must be treated with copper sulfate and covered with garden varnish or another similar product. If the fruit trees are very old, they may be overgrown with lichen and moss. It is better to clean off these growths and treat the bark with copper sulfate.
Under the plants after the snow melts, you can see a crust formed. It must be loosened to ensure access of air and moisture to the roots, and at the same time to disturb the pests wintering in these places. Afterwards it is necessary to mulch the surface with peat or manure.
Pay attention to the kidneys fruit bushes. If they look unnatural and are swollen, resembling cabbage heads, this means that they have been invaded by kidney mites. Such buds must be removed and burned.
Protect your garden from pests
This time can be effectively used to combat various diseases and pests.
If you know that your plants were sick last season, then treat them now with the appropriate medications. Remove affected branches and burn.
To prevent fungal diseases, plants can be treated with a 2% solution of nitrafen or copper sulfate on the surface, do not forget to spray the soil near the trunk. Treat plants at positive temperatures and in the absence of bright sun to avoid causing burns.
For pests such as moth or mites, you can treat fruit bushes with karbofos. If you are an opponent chemicals protection, then you can use infusions of wood ash, tobacco, mustard or onion peel for these purposes.
Meet with perennials
When all the snow has melted and nights with above-zero temperatures set in, you can remove the covering material from the roses. We have already started them gradually. Carefully inspect the bushes; if there are dried or blackened stems, they must be cut off. Focus on the first healthy kidney from above. Everything above can be deleted. Treat the bushes against pests, including the soil under the roses, and loosen them. Apply fertilizer - ammonium nitrate or urea.
At the same time, shelters can be removed from other heat-loving crops that you have insulated for the winter. The soil under all perennials must be loosened and fertilized.
If you added soil to the trunks of perennial crops over the winter to protect them from the cold, it’s time to rake it away. When loosening, it is necessary to add spring complex fertilizers.
It's time to put things in order in the flower beds: remove debris, loosen and fertilize the soil, remove weeds, flew in and took root here (now it will be much easier to do than late spring). It is only important to be careful and not damage those flowers that have not yet risen, so as not to accidentally injure them. If you forget what exactly is growing in your flower beds, either wait a little, or get into the habit of sketching simple diagrams of the arrangement of plants in your flower beds.
Starting from the end of April (but only if the soil has warmed up and there are no frosts) you can divide and. Phlox, astilbe, and daylilies will rejoice in the new place. As soon as the sprouts appear from the ground, the flowers can be divided and planted in new places. It is better to replant chrysanthemums when the size of the shoots is 5-7 cm.
Depending on the weather in April, gladioli and dahlia bulbs can be planted towards the end of the month. The soil temperature at the planting depth (10 cm) should be above 10 degrees. If the month is not very warm and the snow melted late, then it is better to postpone this event until May.
Feed the plants
Fertilizers will be needed for all your garden creatures, including your lawn. Spring fertilizers should contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (azophoska, nitroammofoska, etc.). They could be scattered over the melting snow, but if you did not have time to do this, now is not too late.
Don’t forget about conifers, especially young ones, they also need care. There are special fertilizers for them, and the plants will thank you for the vitamin-rich fertilizer.
Attention, conifers
Take a look at your coniferous neighbors, have you noticed? This is especially true for thuja! Spring is gaining strength and even if there is snow here and there, the temperature rises quite high. The needles begin to actively evaporate moisture. Moreover root system in large plants it has not yet thawed completely and does not replenish lost water. The crown begins to dry out.
To avoid yellowing, water your conifers in the morning warm water so that it can be absorbed before the still cold night sets in.
Plant seedlings
In April, you can plant tree seedlings with an open root system, be sure to tie them to supports and water them well. If you dug in cuttings last year, now you can carefully separate them and plant them in a new prepared place. April is a great time to graft plants.
In April, seeds of annual flowers are sown for seedlings and those crops that were sown in March and have already grown up are planted.
Relax and enjoy the spring air
And the most important thing to do in the garden in April is to relax. No matter how much work awaits you, it is absolutely impossible to redo it all. Therefore, you need to think about yourself and your loved ones, have a picnic in nature, breathe in plenty of fragrant spring air, absorb the energy of awakening nature and recharge yourself with a good mood.
House project “Time to create gardens”
Tsyganova Oksana
