The joints between the tiles must be grouted correctly. To do this, you should find out what consistency the solution should be, how and when you need to remove excess solution. These nuances are revealed in this article. Once you familiarize yourself with them, you will definitely do everything right.

Tools and materials required for grouting tiles:

• Grout for joints;
• Paper tape;
• Metal spatula;
• Rubber spatula;
• Sponge, ice scraper;
• Bucket, clean rags.

Grouting ceramic tiles

Selecting a shade

Please pay attention Special attention the right choice grout colors. How often, when you come to visit someone, do you notice a discrepancy between the tiles and the joints between them? To prevent this from happening to you, take a piece of tile and go to a building materials store. Choose a suitable shade according to your taste.

Note: The color of the dry grout is 99 percent identical to the color of the finished joint between the tiles.

If you plan to highlight the seams, use contrasting shades. Otherwise, buy grout that is the exact color of the tile.

Surface preparation

Prepare the surface thoroughly, otherwise you will not achieve maximum results. Pay attention to any remaining adhesive in the grooves between the tiles. They will prevent you from doing the job perfectly. They should be removed.

First of all, use a damp sponge to remove all remaining adhesive from the surface of the tile. Then start cleaning the gaps between the tiles.

Remove and remove all plastic crosses that were used to cover the floor or. This can be done using thin-nose pliers or the edge of a metal spatula. Do not damage the edges of the tiles.

Note: Do not use the same cross stitches twice or thrice to adhere tiles. This is not something to skimp on.

After removing the crosses, you should start removing the glue from the grooves between the tiles. To do this, use a metal spatula. The free spaces between the ceramic tiles will allow you to apply grout throughout the entire space between the tiles.

Remove all loose adhesive residues from the surface of the tile and from the seams with a vacuum cleaner.

Use paper tape to protect all surfaces adjacent to the tiles. For example, door jambs, wooden floors. Such manipulations will save you a lot of time and effort when washing dried grout.

Only after completing the preparatory procedures can you begin to prepare the solution.

Preparation of the solution

Try not to use tile putty from untrusted manufacturers. The product should not be cheap - this will affect the hardening time of the solution, its plasticity and ease of use.

To mix the solution in the bucket, you will need a narrow metal spatula. To grout joints, two tools can be used, shown in the photo on the sides of a metal spatula.

In this case, a rubber spatula will be used.

Pour into a bucket required amount water - see instructions on the grout package. Stir with a spatula, gradually adding the dry mixture. Allow the mixture to “ripen” for several minutes before final mixing to activate its adhesive functions.

Note: To avoid breathing dust while grouting tiles, use a respiratory mask.

Mix the mixture well so that not a single lump remains. In the photo you can see the correctly prepared grout consistency. It should not slide off the spatula like a lump, but it should not flow down it like water. Otherwise, the grout will not be strong.

Applying grout

Before applying the grout, thoroughly moisten the surface of the tiles near the seams. This can be done with a damp sponge.

Start applying grout from the corner of the room opposite the entrance and move gradually towards the entrance.

Only in this sequence will you and the corridor remain clean.

To avoid using too much tile grout, use only a small amount of the mixture at a time.

So, use a metal spatula to spread some of the mixture evenly onto the end of a rubber spatula. Using a rubber spatula, start filling the seams at an angle of 30-45 degrees.

Walk over the same place several times until the space between the tiles is completely filled.

You will have to work with patience so that everything turns out neatly. As you will see, this is not at all difficult to do. Gradually move towards the exit from the room.

Remove excess joint grout from the surface ceramic tiles holding the rubber spatula almost vertically. At this point, you will appreciate the usefulness of the paper tape you pasted earlier.

If you had not sealed the objects close to the tiles, it would have taken a long time to clean them. Anyone who has met one-on-one with dried grout knows what we're talking about and how it is not easy to clean off any surface.

Cleaning up excess grout

20 minutes after finishing applying grout to the entire floor surface, remove excess grout.

Note: Make sure to complete this procedure on time. Otherwise, to get the perfect tile grout, you will have to spend a lot of money on various products. Typically, after applying grout, wait 20 minutes and then wipe off excess grout from the tile surface with a clean, dry cloth.

Recesses in tile joints

Note: If you are making grout flush with the tile, skip this step and move on to the step of washing off the grout with a wet sponge.

5 minutes after applying the grout, take a piece of the tube and remove excess from the seams.

You need to work very carefully here. Whatever shape you make for the seams at this stage is how it will stay. Everything should be done quickly!

Remove pieces of loose grout with a vacuum cleaner. If this is not done, they may get on the seams and stick to them.

The first step in removing excess grout from your floor is to use a dry cloth to remove large chunks.

Then use a damp sponge.

Note: if you notice that a damp sponge is removing quite a lot of grout from the seams, wait another five minutes and then start the same procedure again.

After this the floor will begin to accept the right type(see photo). But there is still a colored coating on the surface of the tile, which cannot be removed at once.

Note: If you notice thick spots on the seams that cannot be removed with a damp sponge, use an ice scraper or the damp, abrasive side of the sponge in such areas.

After 10-20 minutes, wipe the floor with a damp cloth (mop). Do not press too hard on the mop - the grout has not yet completely hardened. The mixture finally hardens only after a day, sometimes longer, depending on the thickness of the layer and the humidity in the room.

After this procedure, plaque from the surface of the tile should completely disappear.

Now you can admire the beauty you created.

When the main work of laying the tiles is left behind, you can begin its final stage - grouting the joints. This work plays a very important role, because high-quality grout will be able to mask defects in tile laying if they exist, and, conversely, poor grout will completely destroy the impression of a flawlessly executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grouting turn black over time from fungus and mold. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the question of how to grout seams on tiles in order to improve the overall appearance of the coating, as well as provide it with additional protection.

Video instruction

What types of grouting compounds are there?

There are two types of grout for tile joints:

• cement-based;
• epoxy based.

Cement grouts inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixtures with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers make the grout material resistant to moisture, and this allows it to be used even in outdoor open areas. Offered for sale are ready-made mixtures, which do not require additional preparation, but they usually cost much more.

If the seam during installation is wider than 3 mm, then it is better to purchase cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the seams are smaller, then it is recommended to use regular cement-based grout.

Safety tip: Cement grout can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grouts contain epoxy resin and hardener. Such compositions withstand mechanical, chemical and thermal influences well; they are much more stable and stronger than their cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are mainly used in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such grout only if the width of the joints between the ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate into narrower joints).

Epoxy grouts are a mixture of 2 components: paste and catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so you need to use a scale.

Which grout is best for tiles? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for ceramic tile joints, as it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from exposure to chemicals. If you decide to buy cement-based grout, it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, it is a matter of taste: the grout can be matched to the main color of the ceramic tiles or you can prefer a classic light tone.

Width of grout joints

What should be the width of grout joints? This largely depends on personal preference. Some, for example, like narrow seams. Excessively wide joints seem to suppress the tile visually. Square ceramic tiles ranging in size from 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm joints. Irregular shape tiles become less noticeable with wider joints, but not more than 12 mm. A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if you add coarse sand to the grout, but even this will not always protect it from cracking.

To the same extent, it is not recommended to make the seams too narrow, since it will be impossible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the cladding. Good masters know that the quality of the cladding will be high level when the seams are wide enough, when they can be filled well with grout. This means that the seams will be waterproof and will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams is reduced many times when their width is less than 1 millimeter.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how to do it

How to properly grout ceramic tiles? First of all, check whether the glue is completely dry. Then we thoroughly clean the seams from residual glue, dirt and dust, and remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, they must be moistened before grouting, otherwise they will draw water from the grout mixture. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where the grouting work will be carried out. Optimal temperature for grouting – 18-25°C.

You can watch the grouting process in detail in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

• mixing the grout composition;
• keeping the grout mixture for better wetting;
• re-mixing the grout;
• grout distribution;
• cleaning up excess grout.

Mix the grout with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are mixed exclusively with water. In any case, add enough liquid so that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (first pour only three-quarters of total number liquids). After mixing all the dry components with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is done using a rectangular trowel or electric mixer. The stirrer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not get into the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to wet. Mix the grout again so that no lumps remain. If you need to prepare several portions of grout, you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to maintain the proportions and order of combining the components, and so that the color of the grout remains constant, when mixing the next portion, we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing several packages of grout, you must make sure that they are all produced under the same serial number.

The finished grout must have sufficient density so that it remains heaped when distributed.

Materials and tools required for applying grout

• Scraper with rubber nozzle
• Grout
• Sponge
• Bucket
• A wooden stick with a pointed end, a jointer, or a toothbrush
• Plywood
• Clean cloth
• Paint roller
• Respirator (for working with cement grouts)
• Latex gloves
• Protective glasses

We spread the grout in a heap on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile.

To distribute the solution, use a grout float (for walls or floors, respectively). Apply grout to the tile diagonally, holding the float at an angle of 30° to it. We try not only to cover the seams with mortar, but also to forcefully press it into the seams in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

The grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, distribute the solution over a small area (no more than 2 square meters) to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it sets quickly, you need to stop and clean it. Sometimes it is possible to distribute the grout over an area of ​​up to 9 m2, and only then begin cleaning; in other cases, you only have to cover small areas and clean them.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, we use a trowel, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally towards the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). Once the excess has been removed, the grout should be allowed to set before cleaning. While we are grouting and cleaning, do not forget to stir the grout solution periodically so that it retains its softness before applying to the next areas.

During the grouting process, stir the grout solution periodically so that it retains its softness.

The second removal of the grout mixture is wet. When should it start? The time it takes for grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It may take 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of moisture evaporation from grout directly depends on the adhesive and tiles, the type of base, and weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (it is advisable that the sponge has rounded edges - this will prevent grooves from forming in the seams). Use gentle circular movements to remove sand and cement particles. We act carefully to avoid the formation of grooves in the grout joints. We only clean at one time small area(1-2m2), wetting the sponge often enough to wash away the grout particles that have penetrated into the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and squeeze it out as hard as possible, shaking off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage, we inspect the grout joints so that they are all neat. Using a jointer, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end, we level and smooth the seams.

Using jointing, the seams are aligned and smoothed

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be smooth on top, not convex, although most seams then become slightly concave, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all turn out to be the same depth and shape.

The seams have been leveled, now all that remains is to thoroughly clean the surface of the cladding from any remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so as not to wipe the grout from the seams with a sponge. After this cleaning, any remaining grout must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. The seams should dry in about 15 minutes.

Remove grout residue remaining on the surface of the tile using gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

The work is finished, place a sheet of plywood on the floor and do not allow anyone to walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts take up to two or more weeks to dry (check the drying time in the manufacturer’s instructions).

It doesn’t matter whether you decided to lay the tiles yourself or called a specialist - this knowledge will be useful in any case! Knowing the process in theory, you can easily apply the acquired information in practice, as well as monitor hired workers. After all, it is you who will then have to face possible problems.

Choosing materials – classic cement or modern epoxy?

It was once upon a time that tilers used the same solution for all operations, but today craftsmen have access to mixtures for each individual stage of installation. The grout mixture for tile joints must not only be durable, but also have high decorative qualities, resist moisture, household chemicals and dirt. In order not to get lost in the names, let's consider the very essence of grout. First, let's divide them into two groups: cement and epoxy.

Cement grouts consist of especially finely ground cement, fine sand, coloring, plasticizers and other additives that improve the physical and chemical characteristics of the hardened mixture. Like any cement mixture, such grouts are mixed with water or latex, resulting in a very plastic mixture, somewhat similar to putty. It should be noted that cement grouts are very easy to work with, which cannot be said about their main competitor - epoxy grouts, which require remarkable skill and diligence.

Cement grouts begin to harden 20–30 minutes after application, as evidenced by a decrease in color brightness. At this time, you should remove the remaining grout from the surface of the tile - a damp foam sponge is best for this; you can also use an ordinary rag. After a few more hours, wipe the surface of the tiles with a damp cloth or mop.

Cement grouting compounds have one significant advantage - low price and availability. However, there are also a number of disadvantages - the rough surface of the grout quickly becomes clogged with dust, which is why the seams acquire a dirty gray color; due to exposure to moisture and household chemicals, the frozen mixture begins to crack and crumble; cracks.

The problem is partially solved by water repellents or polyurethane water-repellent varnishes, which should be applied to each seam with a thin brush.

Epoxy mixtures are devoid of all these disadvantages, but still it would be hard to call them ideal - their price is not at all ideal, and as mentioned above, working with them will require a lot of experience. The fact is that the mixture obtained after mixing the components is quite hard, and great effort is required to apply it; moreover, the grout hardens quickly, creating problems when cleaning the mixture from the tiles. Therefore even experienced craftsmen make very small portions by mixing the hardener with epoxy resin.

But then you will forget about tile joints forever. After hardening, epoxy compounds acquire a flat, smooth surface that perfectly repels dust and dirt, is absolutely indifferent to the effects of acids and alkalis and can easily be cleaned wire brush. Decorative properties Such compositions are enhanced with the help of all kinds of sparkles, and even glow-in-the-dark components. Please note that the only way to remove such grout from the seams is with the tile itself.

Grouting joints - do it yourself

Step 2: Prepare your own grout mixture

The cement grout mixture is prepared by adding the dry composition to water. The thickness of properly prepared grout is similar to the consistency of sour cream. Mix the composition in small volumes, since even cement grout hardens within 20 minutes. Do not under any circumstances try to dilute the hardened solution with water - even if you manage to get homogeneous mixture, it will crack very quickly after hardening.

Epoxy grout is prepared by mixing two components - the epoxy resin itself with dyes and fillers, and a hardener. At first you may think that epoxy resin very hard and unyielding - don’t worry, everything is correct, a little diligence, and you will be able to mix the components until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To be sure, watch the video on how to handle this composition.

Step 3: Apply grout to the seams

Don’t be afraid to use a wide spatula - take more grout onto the spatula and apply it in a wide strip to the seams, hoping to capture 1 square meter. Don’t be afraid to use force, as if pressing the grout into the seams - the harder and more tightly you press, the better mixture distributed inside the seams, the smoother they will look. The spatula should be held at an angle of 30° and moved diagonally towards the tile. Remove the remaining mixture with a spatula and use for the remaining areas. Using one batch should take you no more than 15 minutes for cement grouts and even less time for epoxy grouts.

Step 4: Remove dirt

Immediately after applying the solution, you can begin to do it yourself. To do this, use a soft foam sponge, which should be washed often and squeezed out well. The sponge should be barely damp so as not to wash the solution from the seams. The sponge should be drawn along the seam, this way you will form the final shape of the line. However, the best option is to smooth out the line with your index finger or thumb. Please note that the grout should be below the level of the tile, as if in a recess. After all, the tiles should be wiped dry with a clean cloth. Afterwards achieve perfect cleanliness Polishing will help. Grout from tiles is easily removed by means such as table vinegar, lemon juice, ammonia or toothpaste.

Grout renewal - we carry out restoration work

Cement grouts quickly lose their presentable appearance, but there are no difficulties in updating the joints. The easiest way is to cover the grout with a special paint, which is sold in every hardware store. In addition to the paint itself, you will need a thin brush, sandpaper and a vacuum cleaner. Before applying the composition, the seams should be treated with sandpaper, and the resulting dust should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. This method allows you to update the color in a matter of hours, however, the effect will not last long.

If the seams are deep and there is at least 2 millimeters to the plane of the tile, a new layer is applied on top of the old layer. To improve the quality of the connection of layers, the previous one should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and the roughness should be increased using coarse sandpaper. The joints should be wetted before applying fresh grout.

The most radical upgrade option between tile joints – complete replacement do-it-yourself grouting. The previous layer should be completely removed. To do this, it is moistened with a special acidic cleaner, which is used to impregnate the surface of the joints - after some time, the grout will tighten softer, and it can be removed using a joint remover. You will find this tool in every hardware store - it is a curved, durable handle with a kind of nail file at the end.

When old composition will be removed, carefully vacuum the seams and go over the sandpaper again over the residues that could not be removed the first time. Then wash the seams with soap and water to neutralize any remaining acidic cleaner. After a day, when the seams are completely dry, you can start sealing them - the instructions given above will help you with this.

Ceramic tile - the best option bathroom finishing, perfectly copes with the humid environment of this room. It is protected from water penetration by a resistant glaze and lasts 15-20 years even in such difficult conditions. However, to ensure that the adhesion of the tiles to the surface of the walls is strong, and that dampness, dirt and fungus do not penetrate into the gaps, grouting of the joints is necessary. You can fill the gaps yourself. This article will help you choose a grout composition and tell you how to prepare and apply it.

Choosing the composition of the grout mixture

It is wrong to base your choice of grout for bathroom tile joints on advertising. You need to decide on the following parameters:

1. Purpose. Grout can be intended for thick or thin joints, or it can be universal. A seam is considered thick if its size exceeds 5 mm. If there is a small distance between the tiles, almost any composition will be suitable for sealing it. And here large gaps covered with fugues containing coarse sand;
2. Compound. Construction grouts are produced on the basis of cement, epoxy and furan resins. If you are going to work with your own hands, it is recommended to seal the tile seams in the bathroom using cement compounds;
3. Release form. Grout intended for bathroom tiles is available in the form of dry mixtures or ready-to-use formulations packaged in plastic buckets. Dry mixtures are packaged in paper or plastic bags, their dilution requires water or water-based silicone;
4. Color. Manufacturers add various pigments to the grout to give it color. The color palette of fugues is extensive; if you want to get a shade that is not in it, you can create it by mixing the composition white with a special color.

Advice! If you are not a professional in the field finishing works, but if you want to do it yourself, cement grout for joints in the form of a dry mixture will suit you light shades, matched to the color decorative covering bathroom

Cement-based grouts

Cement-based grout also includes plasticizers, dyes and sometimes fungicides that protect the tiles from mold. It is suitable for seams of any thickness, therefore it is considered universal. In order for the seam to look neat, the cement in the grout must be very thin, almost powdery. The consistency of high-quality fugue is close to toothpaste. If it is more liquid, it will leak out of the seams; if it is too thick, it will stick to the spatula and fit poorly. Advantages of cement fugue:

• Low price. Price cement composition for sealing lower than that of resin-based grouts, which is optimal if you are making repairs yourself;
• Diversity color palette. Even if you don’t tint the grout yourself, choosing the right shade from the available ones is quite simple;
• Ease of use. Even an inexperienced master can use it to achieve perfect result. Appearance processed seams at the joints of ceramic tiles will be neat and sound;
• Versatility. Cement-based grout is suitable for application to the surface of floors and walls, for thin and thick gaps between tiles;
• Long service life, durability. A well-applied cement-based fugue will not fall out of the joint for a long time, securely fastening the tile joints in the bathroom.

It is considered more economical to use a dry mixture for mixing with your own hands, since the shelf life of the finished grout is only a few hours, after which it hardens and cannot be used in the future.

Resin based grouts

A resin-based joint compound consists of one of two types of resin (epoxy or furan) and a hardener, which must be mixed before application. Its consistency is more viscous, viscous and sticky. Working with it is much more difficult; an inexperienced master will not be able to cope with the application with his own hands, we will lose a lot of time, but will not be satisfied with the result.

Epoxy grout Ideal for thin joints, 6-12 cm deep, for crevices bigger size she doesn't fit. Strengths of this type of grout:

1. High resistance to aggressive chemicals, which make up modern household chemicals;
2. Fungicidal and antiseptic effect, which is given to it by natural essential oils, included in the resin;
3. Resistant to stains. The smooth, non-porous surface does not absorb dirt, but repels it;
4. The water resistance of the resin perfectly protects the base of the walls and floors from moisture penetration;
5. Durability. The service life of furan and epoxy grout is unlimited, it exceeds the time of use of ceramic tiles.

The only disadvantages of this method of sealing are the high cost, as well as the difficulty of doing it yourself.

Grouting process

Preparatory stage and solution preparation

To properly seal seams in the bathroom, you need to prepare the work site. To do this, the following measures should be taken:

• Inspect the seams, remove the mortar from places where excess remains, remove the crosses that were used to lay the tiles;
• Sponge with soft detergent clean the tiles from any remaining tile adhesive;
• Wet the tiles with a damp cloth for better adhesion with the grout.

After the bathroom is ready for use, begin preparing the mixture for sealing the joints. The required amount of water or silicone specified in the instructions is poured into the mixing container. Then, using a construction mixer or with your own hands, create a funnel on the surface of the water, into which the dry mixture is slowly poured in parts.

In order for the mixture to achieve the desired consistency, the ingredients are mixed in a 1:1 ratio; if the solution is too liquid, lower an ordinary brick into it, it will absorb excess moisture.

Grouting technology

To do the grouting yourself, prepare the tools and materials that will be required in the process:

• Cement grout;
• Water or water solution silicone;
• Container for preparing the solution;
• Production mixer;
• Rubberized spatula or wooden spatula;
• Plastering trowel;
• Pure matter, sponge.

When everything is ready for work, begin applying the grout, stirring the prepared solution from time to time:

1. Use a spatula to pick up a small amount of mortar and apply it onto the seam with a firm rubbing motion until it is completely filled. In this way, treat an area of ​​1-1.5 square meters. m, then remove the excess, since after drying it is much more difficult to do;
2. Use a plaster trowel to rub in the applied mortar so that there are no gaps in the seams. The trowel should be held at an angle of 45 degrees to the seam;
3. Immediately remove excess grout from the bathroom tiles with a damp sponge. The more time has passed since application, the more difficult it is to eliminate the solution. After the surface is cleaned, it must be wiped dry with a soft, clean cloth.

Professional tilers operate according to the following scheme: first they apply grout with a spatula along the vertical seam, after which they move on to the horizontal ones.

After the application is completed, you can evaluate the result. If you are not satisfied with it, eliminate the defects with the remainder of the solution and leave to dry.

Do-it-yourself grouting will not only protect the tiles and wall surfaces, but will also reveal the decorative potential of the finishing coating of the room.

Video - step by step instructions

Today, most bathrooms are finished with ceramic tiles. This finish looks beautiful and allows you to solve the problem of mold spreading on the walls and floors due to high humidity. But in order for this problem to be solved, high-quality grouting is needed. This article will tell you how to grout seams on tiles and what tool to use.

The joint between the tiles is the most vulnerable place for moisture penetration. High-quality tile grout can protect the lining from dampness and destruction for a long time. Often grouting is not required, since many people choose rectified ceramic tiles (laid end-to-end), but this is far from the most reliable way protecting the bathroom walls from steam penetration, sealing is not performed.

How to choose grout? It's dry mortar on a cement base. There is also silicone grout. Sealing of joints must be done on a completely dry base.

The main advantages of laying tiles using grout:

• the ability to hide unevenness and errors formed when laying tiles;
• preventing the development of fungus and mold;
• compensation of deformation during thermal expansion and contraction;
• beautiful and neat appearance, grouting of joints has different color, so it's easy to pick up.

Typically, the following mixtures are used for grouting tiles:

• Epoxy moisture resistant. The basis of the mixture is cement and various additives that impart plasticity. It is used for tile joints less than 5 mm wide, as it shrinks when dried. Epoxy tile grout is recommended when tiling a bathroom.
• Grouting joints based on sand and synthetic resins is used when sealing wider gaps.
• The silicone mixture is the most moisture-resistant, therefore it is used when sealing places where the lining comes into contact with plumbing and sealing the connection is ensured.

When choosing a grout mixture for the bathroom, always pay attention to the antifungal properties of the material. The grout can be matched to the color of the tile, a tone or two lighter, since it tends to darken after hardening. The most common brands are: "Atlas", "Knauf", "Ceresit". If you can’t decide which grout to choose for your bathroom, contact a store consultant for help.

It is convenient to use a tile marker to paint over the joints. Thanks to its antibacterial formula, the marker is able to protect seams from fungus and mold.

Applying grout mixture

Process steps:

• preparatory work;
• grouting tiles;
• washing.

On preparatory stage The seams between the tiles in the bathroom must be cleaned of glue and dirt, the entire surface of the tile must be thoroughly washed. Prepare a rubberized tool and soft rags in advance to protect the tiles from scratches. The jointing of the tiles is carried out no less than 24 hours after laying the tiles. Before grouting the tiles, the grout should be slightly moistened.

Tools, materials and devices necessary for grouting joints

• container for preparing tile grout;
• water;
• rubber spatula;
• steel spatula;
• grout gun;
• sponge.

The mixture is prepared according to the instructions indicated on the package. The solution must be mixed until smooth. Use strict proportions to ensure the color of the tile gaps is the same. After mixing, you need to wait the time required by the manufacturer, mix again and you can proceed to the next step.

If you don’t know how to grout tiles, it’s better to turn to experienced professionals. However, grouting bathroom tiles with your own hands is not a difficult task.

Joining seams

Use a rubber spatula to scoop up a small amount of the mixture and then rub the seam, leaving no empty areas. You can remove the remaining grout mixture using the same tool, running it perpendicular to the cladding. Rub the gaps over the entire area in the same way. If the material shrinks, reapply on top of the seam. thin layer mixture, it is important to maintain the same color.

After filling the gaps, wait 30 minutes and proceed to correcting the seams and cleaning the tiles. To do this, moisten a soft sponge with water, squeeze it lightly and remove excess material from the ceramic surface with light, circular movements. It is important to clean in a circle so as not to wash the grout material out of the gaps.

Correction of joints is carried out if, after removing excess material, unfilled areas remain. In this case, these areas simply need to be rubbed down again. After completely dry(1 – 2 days), wash the tiles well. To give the tiled surface a more aesthetically pleasing, you can apply varnish to the joints.

Many craftsmen do jointing not with a rubber spatula, but with a piece of rubber-coated cable. There is also a special tool for this - a seam spreader, but it is used in rare cases.

When using a cable, simply run it along the joint; the seam will be formed better and more accurately, unlike working with a spatula. The wire must be selected larger in diameter than the gap size. All other procedures are performed similarly.

The grout for tile joints hardens completely within a week; this must be taken into account when putting the room into full use after renovation.

Replacing old grout with new one

The need to perform this work may arise when the design is changed (the color of the grout material is not suitable), the work is performed poorly, or when repairs are necessary. When the existing grout is destroyed, the seal of the seam is broken, and moisture gets under the tile.

Tools and devices used to remove material:

• softener;
• hard sponge;
• scraper;
• scraper.

The work takes place in several stages:

Renewing grout using a marker

Grout marker is used quite often. Even beginners can grout joints with a marker. The disadvantage of the method using a marker is its fragility and the impossibility of sealing. After some time, the tile grout will lose its color and begin to darken and deteriorate again.

The process of updating seams using a marker consists of the following steps:

1. Preparation of joints. Old grout Wash well with detergent to remove mold and mildew. Fill the damaged areas with grout mixture, this process perform similarly to jointing. Rub the seams with fine sandpaper, without touching the surface of the ceramic tiles. Rinse the seams again and let them dry thoroughly.
2. Marker coating. The procedure is quite easy, but after a while the joints will again lose color and take on an unsightly appearance.

You can purchase a marker at almost any hardware store. A marker is not only a tool that allows you to update the state of gaps, but also helps to provide various design solutions(adding shine, bright color).

Application of coloring compositions

Special paint will not only give the bathroom walls the new kind, but will also help remove mold. Using paint you can get a brighter and more saturated grout color.