Connecting the air conditioner to the electrical network - options and stages of work

Air conditioning today has widely entered our lives as high-tech equipment capable of providing an appropriate microclimate in any room, and therefore, when installing it in your home, you should know what is the optimal electrical circuit for connecting the air conditioner to your household electrical network.

Connecting power to the air conditioner general issues.

The work required to supply power to the air conditioner is as follows:

The cable connecting the external and internal units of the device is being installed. The second cable should connect indoor unit air conditioner with an electrical panel or, as a last resort, electrical outlet. Based on the power consumed by the air conditioner, it is either connected to the existing electrical network, or a separate power line is supplied to its internal unit, which is connected in the electrical panel using a separate machine.

Installation of electrical wiring is carried out in grooves made in the wall, using corrugated sleeves or through the use of special decorative boxes.

Here the wiring connection is identical, in accordance with the settings of the above-mentioned Instructions. For air conditioner or split system power up to 4.6 kW, the recommended cross-section of the copper power cable is also at least 3 x 2.5 mm. The output circuit breaker in the electrical panel is set to a load current of at least 20A.

Install electrical wiring using special corrugated pipes. Also, when laying electrical wiring together with a drainage line or freon circulation line, do not ignore the possibility of laying it in corrugated tubes of the required diameter.

This method of installing and connecting electrical wiring will allow you in the future to replace any worn-out or damaged wire, without the need to dismantle all electrical wiring laid in grooves or ducts.

Other articles from practical advice and recommendations for home electrics, see here: Electrics for your apartment and house

Air conditioner connection diagram

After installing the air conditioner units, you can begin installing the power supply electrical networks.

First of all, the interconnect cable is laid, connecting the external and internal units. After this, a cable is laid connecting the indoor unit to the power source.

Such air conditioner connection diagrams can differ significantly from each other. Domestic air conditioners mainly have a single-phase connection scheme. A three-phase circuit is used when connecting air conditioners with higher power.

Considering the power of the air conditioner, it can be built into the existing electrical network or a separate line is connected to it. Regardless of the type of connection, a circuit breaker must be installed in the circuit. It is allowed to lay wires together with copper tubes in pre-prepared grooves or in plastic boxes.

Connection to existing electrical wiring is possible under the following conditions:

If it has low power;

If it is mobile or window type;

If the existing electrical network has a sufficiently high power;

During its temporary installation;

There should be no electrical appliances with high energy consumption on the same line with the air conditioner.

You cannot connect the air conditioner to an existing electrical network in the following cases:

If there is aluminum wiring;

If the electrical wiring has a low cross-sectional area;

Protection and grounding are not installed;

Electrical wiring is damaged or highly worn.

When connected to a live line, the electrical network must be equipped with a residual current device and a differential circuit breaker. An automatic machine with a power of 20 amperes or more is installed at the switching point.

Most best option for an air conditioner, connect it to a separate power line. At the same time, the electrical network and the device itself are provided with reliable protection from voltage fluctuations and overloads. Using a separate line, the current is supplied directly to the air conditioner and it can be located anywhere.

The power supply line must meet the following requirements:

A circuit breaker must be installed on the line;

A grounding device must be installed;

Use exclusively copper cables;

Wires with a cross-section of at least 3x2.5 must be used.

With a separate power supply line, a residual current device and a differential circuit breaker do not need to be installed.

When connecting the air conditioner, be sure to use the operating instructions, which contain a wiring diagram for a specific model. Also, the connection diagram is applied to the inside of the block cover or to the blocks themselves. Here are diagrams for connecting the blocks to each other and connecting the entire system to the electrical network.

Connecting the air conditioner to the mains

Electrical supply of household air conditioners must be carried out from an electrical network with a solidly grounded neutral voltage of 380/220 V and grounding.

When installing air conditioners, it is necessary to connect the outdoor and indoor units, supply power, install protective equipment- circuit breakers, residual current devices (RCDs) and sockets.

Before starting installation of electrical equipment, you must: study electrical circuits and external connection diagrams, custom specifications for electrical equipment (equipment, wires and cables, installation materials); inspect the facility’s power supply system and become familiar with the location of input devices, the cross-section of supply wires and the routes for the upcoming laying of wires and cables; check with a special detector whether there are hidden electrical wiring, metal embedded structural parts of buildings, pipes, etc. along the route; study the characteristics of the walls along or inside which the electrical wiring routes will pass.

Electric installation work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) and current regulatory documents.

When laying external wiring, it is necessary to fasten the cables through 500. 600 mm with special plastic clamps. The clamps are attached to the wall using dowels and screws. If electrical wiring is laid in special boxes, they are attached to the walls using glue or screws.

Hidden wiring is carried out under the plaster in plastic corrugated pipes. At the same time, a recess is made in the wall for them - a groove. A plastic corrugated pipe is placed in it, which is attached to the wall with clamps.

It is allowed to lay wires under the plaster in grooves without the use of plastic pipes at a depth of at least 20 mm.

When developing a wiring project or determining the route at the installation site, the following requirements must be taken into account: junction boxes, sockets and switches must be located in places accessible for maintenance; sockets must be installed in the places of intended installation electrical equipment at a height of 50.80 cm from the floor level and no closer than 50 cm from grounded metal devices(water and heating pipes, radiators, etc.); wires are laid only in vertical and horizontal lines. Horizontal laying of wires is carried out at a distance of 50.100 mm from the cornice and beams, 150 mm from the ceiling and 150.200 mm from the plinth. Vertically laid sections of wires must be removed from the corners of the room, window and door openings by at least 100 mm.

Parallel laying of wires near gas pipeline pipes or gas meters is carried out at a distance of at least 1 m. In the presence of hot pipelines (heating and hot water) the wiring must be protected from influence high temperature thermal insulation. It is prohibited to lay wires under the plaster in bundles, or with a distance between them of less than 3 mm.

Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks or bolted connections. Twisted connections are prohibited.

Connection prohibited aluminum wires with copper ones.

Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers are devices for protecting electrical networks from short circuits and overloads. Automatic circuit breakers are selected based on rated current, response characteristics, breaking capacity, installation and operating conditions.

According to their response characteristics, circuit breakers are of the following types:

Type B - used for incandescent lighting lamps.

Type C - used to ensure the operation of motors with a starting time of up to 1 s, loads with low inductive currents (recommended for air conditioners).

Type D - used for engines with long start-up times and welding equipment.

Installation of automatic switches is carried out in special panels or cabinets, and the switches are secured using a DIN rail. If several single-phase circuit breakers are installed side by side on the same DIN rail, the load capacity of each is reduced due to deteriorating cooling conditions. It must be taken into account that when the ambient air temperature changes, the load capacity of the switches, determined by the load factor, changes:

where I, In - current strength of the operating switch, rated, respectively.

Considering that outdoor units and air conditioner fans operate in harsh operating conditions, additional measures of protection against electric shock are required. Such a device is a residual current device, which responds to differential current. It is triggered by leakage current from the circuit (current flowing through the human body or through poor insulation).

In the catalogs of foreign companies, the RCD is called a differential relay. Both differential relays and differential relays combined with circuit breaker, current and thermal protection. Such a device is called an automatic differential switch.

RCDs are available in three types. RCD type "A" universal application can be recommended for protecting circuits with air conditioners.

Connection diagram of the air conditioner to the electrical network

Connecting the air conditioner to the electrical network has some features. It is best to entrust the work to professionals. But experienced home craftsmen with knowledge in the field of electricity can cope with the task.

How to connect an air conditioner to the mains

To install an air conditioner, as a rule, you need to call specialists who, upon completion of installation of the equipment, will issue you with a document indicating that the work was carried out correctly. If you install a split system yourself, you lose the right to warranty service. But in order to save money, many home craftsmen try to install the air conditioner themselves. In this case, it is worth considering one point: in order to properly connect the external unit of the system with the internal one, and then put the unit into operation, you will need to purchase quite a expensive equipment. In addition, installing a split system is quite a troublesome task if you do it yourself. Purchasing equipment is advisable in the following cases:

• you plan to move one or more units to new locations;
• if you purchased several units;
• you are planning a serious renovation of the apartment, which involves complete dismantling, and then reverse installation split systems;
• you want to help install a split system for your friends or relatives;
• If you need this set of tools to repair your car air conditioner.

In other cases, installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands is impractical.

The standard configuration of a split system usually includes such components.

Important! To install the air conditioner yourself and put it into operation, you need to supplement the standard equipment of the device.

Installation materials and tools

To install a split system yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials.

You also cannot do without a special tool:

• pipe bender (how to use, shown in the video);
• Rimmer-stripping;
• pipe cutter (you can learn how to use it from the video);
• rolling (see video);
• manifold;
• Vacuum pump.

Selecting a mounting location for the indoor unit

The location of the indoor module should be such that during its operation you do not experience discomfort from the flow of cool air. If you look at the following figure, it will become clear without words what the ideal options for installing an air conditioner in an apartment are.

When placing the module above the head of the bed, the flow of cold air will not enter the rest area and will not cause harm to health. Workplace It is recommended to position it so that the air flow is either from the side or from the rear. If the table you work at is under the air conditioner in an apartment or office, you can install it under a hairdryer special screen to direct the flow along the ceiling.

Requirements for installation of the indoor unit

There are the following rules for placing the indoor air conditioner unit in a room:

• the distance between the hair dryer and the ceiling must be at least 15 cm (some models are installed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ceiling);
• the distance from the installed block to the wall on the right or left is at least 30 cm;
• the obstacle in the path of air flow should be no closer than 150 cm.

Sometimes the question arises: at what height should the indoor module be hung if the room high ceilings? On average, you can hang an air conditioner on the wall at a height 280 cm from the floor, as it shown on the picture.

The following figure shows examples various options installations that clearly show how best to install an air conditioner.

Requirements for installation of the outdoor unit

The external module of the unit is usually placed under a window, near a window or on a balcony. If the balcony fence is strong enough, then you can fix the module on it.

If the apartment is on the first floor, That outdoor unit it is required to be located at a height of at least 2 meters from the ground, adhering to the rule: the outdoor unit must be mounted slightly lower than the indoor unit, or at the same level with it.

When installing split system modules, you should remember the minimum and maximum distances between them. These values ​​may differ depending on different manufacturers climate technology. For example, for Panasonic split systems minimum distance there can be 3 meters between modules, and for Daikin - from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Some manufacturers do not specify a minimum distance at all. In this case, the blocks can be placed back to back.

The maximum length of the route between modules is usually 6 meters. More is allowed, but in such a situation it will be necessary refilling with freon, which entails additional material investments. Therefore, if you install the air conditioner yourself, it is better not to exceed the designated 6 meters.

Installation procedure

The installation procedure for an air conditioner, including an inverter air conditioner, implies a phased installation of all its modules and lines. Installation must be performed following step by step instructions given below.

The rules for installing an air conditioner state that at the first stage you will need to install the indoor unit (hair dryer) of the air conditioner. To do this, follow these steps.

1. To properly install the air conditioner yourself, take a steel mounting frame and attach it to the wall where the hair dryer is intended to be installed (taking into account all the distances described above). It is important that the frame for installing the air conditioner is placed strictly horizontally(use a building level).
2. Mark places for fastenings.
3. Using a hammer drill, make holes in the wall and hammer plastic dowels into them.
4. Place the plate against the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws.
5. The hair dryer is suspended on the mount (plate) for the air conditioner, after which it is necessary to check the horizontal position again. If you allow the air conditioner in the room to become distorted reverse side from the drainage channel, the liquid will accumulate in the pan and flow down the walls.

Preparation of communication channels

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues with preparing the channel for the main line. To bring out the freon circuit tubes, power cables and drainage, it is necessary to make a hole of the appropriate diameter in the wall. For this, a hammer drill with a long drill is used. To ensure free flow of condensate to the street, it is necessary to make slight slope.

Outdoor unit installation

Installing an external air conditioner unit is considered the most labor-intensive process when installing split systems. The difficulties arise from the fact that the weight of the module can reach 20 kg or more, due to the compressor located in it. In addition, most often the external module is installed on high altitude.

To begin, make markings using a level. Then use a hammer drill to make holes. Next, anchor bolts are screwed into them, and the brackets themselves are screwed to them with nuts. After the brackets are securely fastened, the external module is installed on them.

When installing an air conditioner, especially an outdoor unit, you will need the help of at least one person. If the module is installed at a high altitude, then you will not be able to install the air conditioner yourself. It is better to use the services of climbers to hang this module.

The outdoor module is attached to the brackets using bolts. It is recommended to place thick rubber under the feet to reduce vibration.

Connecting blocks by communications

To continue installing the split system with your own hands, you need to connect both modules to each other.

1. First of all, remove the protective plastic covers on the terminals of the external unit. Using the instructions, connect the control and power cables that come from the indoor module to them.
2. Carefully, in order to connect the modules in the future, make route installation your air conditioner, having previously put thermal insulation on the tubes (the ends are fixed with reinforced tape). To prevent debris from getting into the tubes, also seal their ends with tape. The track is secured with clamps screwed to the wall. After this, measure the length of the line and cut the tubes, leaving a margin of 10 cm. Place union nuts on them and roll the ends. Using a rimmer, remove the chamfer. The laying of a route (main) for an air conditioner can be carried out both outside and inside the premises, if for aesthetic reasons it is prohibited to place any communications on the facade of the building.
3. With help union nuts Screw the tubes first to the fittings of the external module, then to the fittings of the internal one.
4. Secure the drain tube using plastic clamps.

Below is a diagram of the connection of split system modules.

Vacuuming

Without evacuating the line, refrigerant cannot be introduced into the system. This procedure will require a vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. The pump is connected to the filling fitting through the manifold, as shown in the figure below (the valves on the manifold should be in the “closed” position), after which it is turned on for 20-30 minutes. to remove residual air from the system.

After turning on the vacuum pump, you need to open the handle located under the pressure gauge low pressure. After a short period of time, the needle on the pressure gauge will begin to fall and reach zero, within 30 seconds or more. The pumping time depends on the length of the line and the diameter of the tubes. The position of the arrow at zero means that in the highway a vacuum has formed.

Do not turn off the pump at this stage. Continue vacuuming for about 30 minutes. After the specified time has passed, first turn off the tap on the manifold, and only then turn off the pump. If the tap is not closed, air will leak into the system.

Freon filling

Freon is launched into the system without disconnecting the hose connected to the service port valve. If this is done before the refrigerant starts, air will enter the line.

In order to independently introduce refrigerant into the system, you need to slowly open the valve located on the liquid valve using an allen key. After filling the line with refrigerant, you can unscrew the hose connected to the service port located on the gas valve.

Attention! When the hose is disconnected, freon may be released, which can freeze your hands and damage your eyes. It is recommended to wear safety glasses and gloves on your hands. The face must be kept away from the fitting.

It is necessary to unscrew the fitting from the valve as quickly as possible to reduce the loss of freon. Don't be alarmed by loud hissing. The nut may become covered with frost when the refrigerant escapes. Do not touch it without gloves to avoid getting burned.

All connections can be washed to check for leaks. After checking, screw all the plugs onto the valve valves, not applying much force, but well enough. If you tighten them loosely, it is possible that winter period will happen Freon leak.

After you have verified that the line is tight, turn on the split system for a while, then check all connections again. At this stage, the installation of the wall-mounted air conditioner is considered complete.

Do I need permission?

People often ask whether permission is needed to install a split system, and is it possible to install it without approval from the authorities? Based on practice, permission to install an air conditioner is not required. An exception may be cases when it is necessary to coordinate the installation of climate control equipment with the authorities in buildings that are architectural monuments or having historical, aesthetic value. In other cases, approval is not required for the installation of climate control equipment.

In the last few decades domestic air conditioners firmly entered our lives and became commonplace household appliances, as happened before with other household appliances - refrigerators, food processors, etc. Air conditioning is a complex technical devices, the installation of which is usually trusted to specialists. However, in a number of cases, when the services of specialized organizations are not available, and the owner of the home has sufficient skills, you can install this unit yourself.

Types of household air conditioners

The entire variety of air conditioning systems can be divided into two main types - monoblocks and split systems.

Main hallmark monoblocks is the assembly of all components and assemblies in a single housing. Such systems include:

• Window air conditioners, in which there is a separation of units inside the housing, while the compressor unit is located on the rear side and must extend outside the room.

Installing a window air conditioner reduces the window area

• The housings of floor-standing or mobile air conditioners are equipped with wheels to allow free movement indoors. Such systems have an air duct that is ducted outside the room.

Floor standing air conditioners can be moved indoors

The advantages of monoblocks are directly related to the features of their design:

• Low cost combined with a long service life.
• Simplicity of design and operation.
• These systems achieve the highest possible efficiency.
• Fast air cooling.
• Most modern systems are equipped remote controls management.

Such systems are not without a number of design flaws:

• The number of possible installation options is limited (either in a window opening, or in a place where it is possible to bring the air duct hose outside).
• High noise level.
• The need to change the window geometry and attach complex suspension units in the case of installing a window air conditioner, which entails additional costs.
• If installed in a window opening, the illumination of the room is reduced.

A design feature of split systems is the division of air conditioning units into two blocks, one of which, the compressor, is placed outside. Unlike monoblocks, split systems have more varieties, but only some of them are used in residential premises:

• The most widely used are wall-mounted devices, when a hair dryer or indoor unit is attached to the wall of the home, and the compressor in the outdoor unit is installed on the facade. One of the types of such systems is inverter and non-inverter models. Firstly alternating current is converted to constant, which allows you to adjust the compressor speed.

A split system hair dryer can be installed anywhere on the wall of the house

• Floor-ceiling systems are used less frequently. Their highlight is the ability to install a hairdryer either under the ceiling or on the floor. Respectively, air currents in the first case they will spread from top to bottom, and in the second - from the floor up.

Indoor unit of a floor-ceiling split system

• Another type is multi-split systems. Their design provides for one external unit with a compressor and several internal units that are installed in different rooms houses or apartments.

A multi-split system is optimal when it is necessary to air condition several rooms

TO undeniable advantages split systems include:

• Low noise level.
• Function of cleaning the air from bacteria and dust.
• The presence of a heating function in the cold season.

This is interesting: quite often the heating function is provided by manufacturers in modern monoblock systems, both window and mobile.

• Compact size of the indoor unit, which can be installed in a room of any size.
• In many modern systems There is a function of air dehumidification and humidification, which allows you to create a comfortable microclimate in the room.

Disadvantages of split systems:

• Their cost is higher compared to monoblock models.
• The need for large volume specialized work, including facade ones, both during installation and when the need arises for repairs and preventive maintenance.

Methods for installing air conditioners in an apartment

• Monoblock models window air conditioners Nowadays they are purchased less and less often. The reason for this is a significant increase in the percentage of installation of plastic and other windows with standard double-glazed windows in homes. Change geometry window opening It becomes difficult, because such air conditioners are installed directly in the window unit, so that the rear part with the compressor is located outside the room. Such a system can be installed either at the bottom of the window, in which case it rests on the window sill, or at the top, using brackets to the ceiling or wall.
• Mobile fastening systems do not require. The location of their installation is selected based on the possibility of removing soft materials outside the room. corrugated pipe air duct. The technical solution to this problem is left to the discretion of the buyer.
• The installation options for split systems are more diverse. This is due to numerous options for the relative position of the indoor and outdoor units and depends both on the owner’s wishes regarding the mounting location of the indoor unit, and on the technical ability to fix both the outdoor and indoor units in a specific location. Of no small importance is the possibility of laying communications between blocks. The optimal solution is usually based on a scheme in which the distance between the external and internal units is minimal. This solution allows you to minimize the amount of work associated with laying communications and allows you to save energy by reducing the heating that occurs during the circulation of the refrigerant.

Photo: the most commonly used layout diagrams of the external and internal units of a split system

Preparing the tools

If the decision to install a split system yourself is finally made, first of all you should check the availability of the necessary tools and Supplies. For full implementation work will be needed:

• A hammer drill with a drill with a cross-section of 40–45 mm and a length of at least 800 mm.
• Set of Pobedit drills with a diameter of 6–12 mm.
• Screwdriver with a set of bits.
• Metal scissors and reamer.
• Ruler, pencil and building level.
• Adjustable wrench.
• Vinyl insulation, masking tape and plastic bags.
• Brackets for fastening the outdoor unit, bolts with dowels 120 mm long.

Deciding on self-installation, it is worth considering the degree of accessibility to the installation site of the external unit. If it is mounted at a significant height, you will have to include the rental of an aerial platform in your expenses.

How to install a split system with your own hands

• At the first stage, the installation of a split-system hair dryer, that is, an indoor unit, is carried out. Steel perforated panel, on which it is attached, is removed from the back wall and applied to the wall at the site of future installation. It is very important to make precise leveling, after which holes for fastenings are marked. Slopes are not allowed, as this will cause condensation to pour out of the housing onto the floor of the room. Another important point is that the distance to the ceiling should be left at least 7 cm. Holes are drilled in the wall with a hammer drill, after which the plate is attached using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Typically, dowels with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of at least 32 mm are used. After hanging the hair dryer block onto the latches, the horizontal accuracy of the fastening is checked again using a level.

The hair dryer is hung on a steel shaped plate

• On next stage communication channels are being prepared. If used hidden gasket, you will have to make grooves using an impact hammer. However, such a decision entails production cosmetic repairs in the room. Therefore, nowadays most often communications are hidden using plastic box suitable section. Using a hammer drill and a drill, a hole is made in the outer wall to lead power and control cables, PVC pipes for condensate drainage and freon circuit pipes to the outdoor unit. Marking is done using a ruler and level. Important point: in order to ensure condensate drainage, the outlet should be slightly inclined towards the street. When drilling, use a vacuum cleaner and secure it directly under the hole. plastic bag with help masking tape to avoid significant contamination on furniture and walls. If the length of the drill is not enough, drilling is done from both sides. IN modern houses The wall thickness rarely exceeds 1 m.

The hole is drilled with an inclination towards the street

• After this, the most difficult stage begins - installing the street block. Since this unit houses a compressor, it weighs more than 20 kg, and installation is often carried out at a considerable height. Therefore, do not forget about safety measures, in particular, the use of safety equipment. Most often, the outdoor unit is mounted on the wall using L-shaped brackets. First, the location of the brackets on the wall is marked and holes are drilled. Then fastening is done with bolts and nuts using washers. The external block of the split system is bolted to the brackets, while thick rubber gaskets are mounted under the legs to reduce vibration and noise.

The outdoor unit is mounted on L-shaped brackets

• As possible option Installation of an external unit on the roof of a building or directly on the ground is used. In this case, U-shaped brackets or frame metal stands are used. This solution can significantly increase the length of communications and is used when it is impossible to mount the unit on the wall, for example, when the wall surface materials are insufficiently strong.

• The next stage is the most critical. During it, a connection is made between the external and internal units by communications. First, the plastic protective cover on the external unit is removed and, in accordance with the manufacturer’s diagram, the power and control cables coming from the internal unit are connected to the terminals using bolts. Then the length of the freon line is measured and the copper tubes are cut with a margin of 10 cm. The ends of the tubes are rolled and chamfered using a reamer. The copper pipeline is connected first to the external block, then to the hair dryer using an adjustable wrench using union nuts screwed onto the fittings in both blocks. Before the copper tubes are passed through the hole in the wall, they are covered with vinyl insulation and the ends are insulated with tape to prevent debris from getting inside. A drainage drain tube is also installed; it is made of corrugated plastic pipe PVC, which is attached to the block with plastic clamps.
• The last stage is introducing freon into the refrigeration circuit. First, the gas is removed from the circuit by opening the valve, followed by vacuumization. The refrigerant is located in the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. The valves through which freon is introduced into the system are located there. If the length of the contour is equal to or less than the data specified in the data sheet, the introduction of additional volume will not be required. Before this operation, experienced craftsmen evacuate the circuit using a special pump with pressure gauges that allow monitoring pressure loss. These actions not only allow you to check the tightness of the system, but also help to maximize the removal of moisture and air from the system, which reduces the load on the compressor.

Before introducing freon into the system, professionals evacuate the circuit

• Upon completion of work, the assembled split system is checked in all operating modes. There should be no vibrations, the fans on the indoor and outdoor units should rotate. There should be no foreign odors, drainage should remove moisture. Of course, the air conditioner must perform both cooling and heating functions.

Video: installation of a split system without using a bucket truck

It's hard to imagine an apartment that doesn't have air conditioning. As can be seen from what has been written, even this complex equipment, if necessary, can be installed independently, without the involvement of a specialist.

Translated from English word split means "crack", but there are other, less common translations, namely "division". This article describes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, and specifically a split system, which consists of divided blocks. Since the installation of an air conditioning system itself is quite an expensive undertaking, it will be useful to find out how you can install it yourself.

Installing an air conditioning system is not an easy task. In order to connect everything correctly, you need to know how it all functions:

- through a die (a nozzle in the form of a narrow hole) a rapidly boiling liquid is poured under pressure into the evaporator chamber, used to cool the air - this is the refrigerant. In the chamber, the liquid expands, boils, evaporates and thereby consumes a large number of warm air.

— water condensate accumulates on the evaporator heater during operation. It flows into a special tank, from which it goes outside (to the street) through a drainage tube.

- the compressor, like a vacuum pump, constantly pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From high pressure The temperature of the refrigerant rises to such an extent that it enters a supercritical state similar to a very dense fog.

- then the refrigerant passes into the condensation chamber, in which there is a heater blown by a fan. Under the cold air, the temperature of the refrigerant again changes critically, this time it cools and turns into a liquid.

- the liquid refrigerant again enters the evaporator through the nozzle and the cycle is constantly repeated.

What helps and what hinders the operation of the air conditioner

In order for the split system to function properly and at the same time save energy during installation, it is important to fulfill the following conditions:

- do not allow warm air to penetrate inside the equipment - when cold and hot zones come into contact, electricity consumption greatly increases. In this situation, the compressor is forced to distill heat inside the system, and this is an additional cost.

- maintain the tightness of the system - due to its depressurization, quickly boiling liquids can simply evaporate. This can happen even through the smallest hole.

- the external unit must be located lower than the internal one - this will create a thermosiphon effect (warm liquid rises), which makes the compressor work easier. If this is not done, then excessive consumption of electricity will inevitably occur, since the liquid will rise, overcoming the reverse thermosiphon effect.

- the external unit must be located in a cool place, in the shade - additional heating from the outside increases the energy consumption for cooling the system.

— the drainage tube should not be allowed to bend upward, since such convolutions are instantly populated by microbes and mold, and as a result become a source of infection.

What is an air split?

A split system differs from a conventional household air conditioner in that it consists of separated blocks. One of them is external, a compressor operates in it, and condensate is collected. The second block is internal, in which the thermostatic fluid evaporates. Many modern split systems not only cool the air in the room, but also heat it to the required temperature. When the air is heated, the cycle works in reverse, and the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit, while evaporation occurs in the outdoor unit. For this reason, in general, blocks are simply referred to as external (external) and internal.

It also happens that several internal units work with one external unit. At the same time, they can work separately, both cooling and heating the air. But this occurs only in expensive models of split systems. Although such air conditioning systems are expensive, they are more economical in operation than their cheaper counterparts. This happens because in such a situation, heat exchange inside the room does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner to work.

When to install an air conditioner

It would be better to install a split system in a house during the renovation period. There is a lot of work to be done to replace and install electrical wiring. It’s good that the wall finishing is not yet completed before installation begins. Otherwise, there will be costs associated with re-finishing the interior.

Required Tools

To ensure that the installation of the split system goes without delay, and after several days the equipment does not fail, it is necessary to use quality tools. For installation you will need:

- a hammer drill with a set of chisels - you have to make holes in the wall with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters.

- reinforcement detector (if the wall is made of reinforced concrete) – if the hammer drill hits the reinforcement, the hole will have to be punched again.

- pipe cutter - only they need to cut pipes. If you cut the refrigerant pipes with a simple hacksaw, then there will certainly be particles of metal shavings along the edges, which will lead to compressor malfunction.

- a set for flaring tubes - if you try to bend the edges of the tube with improvised tools, you will not be able to achieve complete symmetry.

— scraping is a tool that is used to strip the ends of tubes. Files are not suitable for these purposes due to the risk of small particles getting inside the compressor.

— hand pump(bicycle) - it is useful for checking the system for leaks.

- vacuum pump - used to create a vacuum in the system before filling it. Many experts advise simply flushing with refrigerant, but this does not remove residual moisture, and as a result the compressor may be damaged, similar to the situation with metal shavings.

- phase indicator and tester - these devices will be useful when replacing electrical wiring.

- pressure gauge.

— pipeline.

Selecting the required tubes

For security the best solution will purchase a whole bay of copper tube. This is justified, since small chips may remain in the cut tube, which during operation can damage the compressor. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the tube have factory flaring, and that there are no cracks, creases or other defects on the tube. Using a long pipeline, you can lower the outdoor unit much lower than the indoor unit. In this case, the excess consumption of material will quickly pay for itself, since the resulting thermosiphon effect will reduce the energy consumption of the equipment.

Trimming, cleaning and shaping tubes

Before installing the air conditioner, it is necessary to do a test flaring, scraping and cutting of the tube. A special tool is used for flaring; before work, you need to carefully inspect and study its structure, possible defects during use, and know what the end result looks like. When purchasing a whole coil, it is best to purchase a small piece of trim for trial work, since it is not recommended to cut the coil for these purposes. The pipe is cut using a circular motion of the pipe cutter. Next, you need to do a scraping, in which the tube should be with the end down so that the tube scraps do not fall into the lumen and inside.

Installation of the external unit

Independent installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on floors above the second, namely an external unit, is considered life-threatening and impractical. On the upper floors, installation can only be done if there is a balcony or loggias. The external unit is easily and conveniently installed on the balcony on small and shallow brackets. A balcony is generally a convenient place to install an air conditioner, because it has north or east sides, which are simply ideal for installation. But even in the south, installing a split system is not so scary, since a roof or canopy will protect the external unit from overheating under scorching sun even on the hottest day. It is on such a day that the operation of the air conditioner is very important.

Before installing the brackets, it is necessary to remove the glass for the installation period and drive the holders themselves into the lower part of the frame. In order not to spoil the lining of the loggia, you can bend the “roots” of the holders in the form of the letters “P” located horizontally.

Installation of a split system

Professional installation of a split system in a house takes place in a strict sequence:

- choosing a location for the indoor unit,
- installation and replacement of electrical wiring,
— installation of the external unit,
- making a hole in the wall for the pipes,
— laying a pipeline,
— electrical installation of connections in blocks,
- checking the tightness of the air conditioner,
— vacuuming the system,
- filling the system,
- power connection,
— test run of the system sleeping,
— insulation of interblock harnesses,
- capital sealing holes,
- pleasant to use.

Some important stages of installing a split system are discussed in more detail below.

Selecting the location of indoor units

There are a number of places where the indoor unit of a split system cannot be installed:

— above heating devices;

- where there is no air access - behind curtains, partitions, screens and other seemingly insignificant obstacles;

- in rooms where there is equipment that causes electrical interference: workshops with power tools, kitchens with induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens. If this is neglected, the radiation will damage the unit’s processor.

Attention! There is no air conditioning in the kitchen. Cooling of air and the influx of new air occurs due to the house’s own general ventilation.

Electrical wiring features

The power of the smallest air conditioner is 1.5 kW. For this reason, it is simply necessary to lay a separate cable for the air conditioning system with a cable thickness of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. In addition, it is important to install a machine that can turn off the electricity in case of overload.

When connecting wires to the power panel, you need to connect the yellow wire with a green stripe along its entire length to N (neutral wire). Using the phase indicator, you need to determine the phase and zero.

How to drill holes in a wall

It is important to correctly determine the position of the reinforcement in the wall. If the fittings are hit, nothing can be done. You'll have to drill a new hole. Damage to the fittings is unacceptable, as this contradicts building regulations. In addition to the situation described, there is one more point. For this stage, a second person will be required who will warn people passing below about the possible fall of pieces of concrete or brick. This cannot be ignored, because if a random piece of debris falls on a person, the consequences can be very serious, including imprisonment.

The hole must be made with a diameter of more than 80 mm. The advice you come across about 50-60 mm most likely does not take thermal insulation into account.

Installation of tubes

First you need to cut the tube to the required length with a margin of about one meter. Then you can start bending the pipeline. This is done very carefully so that no breaks or wrinkles occur. The bend of the tube must correspond to a radius of 100 mm or no less. If wrinkles occur, they will create unnecessary resistance to the coolant and, as a result, increase energy consumption.

The next step is the thermal insulation of the tube. To do this, a hose made of polyurethane foam (flex) is put on it. There is no point in using other insulation materials, since they are short-lived and will become unusable after a season.

After this, it is necessary to put flanges on the tubes with threads to the ends of the tube and make flaring.

Next, we connect the tubes one by one to the existing fittings. At this stage, you need to be careful and make sure that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot fitting of the outdoor unit. Sometimes the cold and hot fittings have different diameters.

The nuts on the fittings must be tightened securely, but not too tightly, because the nuts will need to be tightened to a control level when sealing.

A piece of reinforced plastic tubing can be used as drainage. It is connected to the drain pipe or with a threaded nut. A piece of heat-shrinkable tubing may also help. It is easily heated by a soldering iron, slightly touching the tube with the tip.

How to properly connect an air conditioner to the electrical network

To connect the blocks you will need multi-core insulated wires with a thickness of 2.5 square meters. mm. They connect the terminals of the blocks (indoor and outdoor), most often the terminals are the same. If the names of the terminals are different, then you need to study the instructions in detail and get advice from a specialist. All wires, by analogy with tubes, are passed through previously made holes in the wall.

Sealing

To carry out sealing, a soap solution is used. To do this, you need to purchase distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it to steam. Then, stirring gently, you need to dissolve a tablespoon of chopped laundry soap in it.

Two people should work here. You need to remove the outlet nipple and attach a rubber hose from a bicycle pump to its nipple. An assistant carefully pumps air, another one applies a soap solution with a brush to all threaded connections.

Then tighten the nuts until bubbles stop completely, plus 1/8 turn from above. Soap deposits are removed with a damp cloth.

Vacuum cleaning process

The next step is the vacuum process. It is necessary for the system to be cleared of dust and moisture, which are removed along with the air. To do this, the nipple is screwed into place and a vacuum pump is connected to it. It must be tightened tightly. Then you need to pump air for an hour. As a result, all residual moisture will evaporate.

Filling the system

It's time for the refrigerant to fill the system. To do this, a cylinder with coolant is connected to the system through an adapter with a pressure gauge. It should be filled until the pressure specified in the documentation is reached.

Important! Air conditioners that run on freon are prohibited from being filled with refrigerant and vice versa.

Test activation

When you turn on the machine, the split system should enter test mode on its own. If this does not happen, then you need to run the test from the remote control remote control. If it doesn’t work this time, it means that the installation was done incorrectly and, in order not to permanently damage the equipment, you need to call a specialist.

Finishing touches

If the test switching was successful, the blinds are installed in the correct position and begin to sway. The harness located between the blocks on top must be wrapped with aluminum foil. This will serve as a heat shield, saving up to 3% of electricity. The second layer of the harness together with the drainage tube is wrapped with moisture-resistant insulating tape. The final touch is to completely seal the hole in the wall. There is no need to do this with foam. On this we can sum up the decisive conclusion that the split system was installed independently and is working properly.

Video on the topic “How to install an air conditioner yourself”

Now more and more people want to buy and install a split system in their apartment. And it's not just air conditioning. The split system allows you to better freshen the indoor air. What is its advantage? First of all, it doesn't block daylight, since it does not crash into window frame. The second advantage is that it does not depend on the overall air conditioning system of the house as a whole. And lastly, it consists of only two blocks: internal and external. The only reason why a large number of consumers hesitate to purchase a split system is ignorance of the rules for its installation. Let's look at all the steps in order and tell you how to install a split system yourself.

Compound

First of all, you need to know what this air conditioning system consists of. It includes two separate units: an external one - a condenser, and an internal one - an evaporator. They communicate with each other through electrical wires and two tubes made of copper through which the refrigerant circulates. In addition, the indoor unit is equipped with a thin plastic tube that performs a drainage function, that is, it removes condensed moisture from the system. According to the rules, it must be connected to a special drain tank or to sewer pipe, but for some reason, most often it ends up being taken outside, and the water from it drips directly onto the heads or under the feet of passers-by.

Principle of operation

It is quite simple and consists in the fact that if the room needs to be cooled, then freon flows through a copper tube from the heat exchanger of the external unit to the heat exchanger of the internal one. Thus, the refrigerant is processed by the fan, and from inside the air conditioner it comes out cold air.

If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the heat pump of the external condenser begins to work as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, acts as a condenser. The split system is also equipped with a compressor located in the external unit. Its main function is to compress freon, which significantly increases the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Mounting methods

Internal units of split systems can be either wall-mounted or floor-ceiling. The latter can be successfully attached to both the ceiling and the floor. Most often, wall blocks are used in apartments of multi-storey buildings. They are equipped with movable blinds, with which you can change the direction of air flow.

The power of wall-mounted units is specifically limited by the manufacturers themselves, since if the flow of cooled air is too strong in small room it can literally blow away whatever is there. If the room is quite spacious, for example, it is an office or workshop, then a more powerful split system with a floor-ceiling indoor unit is installed in it.

Installation tools

In order to install a split system with your own hands, you will need whole line equipment that you will have to purchase or rent. The quality of the work performed and the durability of your air conditioner directly depend on what tool you use during the installation process. You will need:

● Rotary hammer with a set of chisels. It is useful for making holes in the main wall.

● Rebar detector. It may be needed if the walls of the house are made of concrete. If during drilling the tool hits the reinforcement, you will have to make another hole.

● Tube flaring kit. It will not be possible to do this work efficiently using improvised means, since it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.

● Pipe cutter. Under no circumstances should you cut off the pipes through which the refrigerant circulates with a regular hacksaw. Copper chips always remain in the gap, which can subsequently lead to compressor failure.

● Shabrovka. This tool is used to strip cut ends of pipes. An ordinary file or needle file is not suitable for this purpose precisely because of the sawdust.

● Pressure gauge. Needed to measure the refrigerant pressure in the system.

● Vacuum pump. It is necessary to process the system before filling it. Quite often you can hear advice that it can be washed with refrigerant. This is fundamentally wrong, since it does not remove moisture and spoils the compressor, just like metal chips.

● Hand bicycle pump. It is used to check the system for leaks.

● Tester and phase indicator. These devices are necessary for electrical installation work.

Tubes and working with them

Experts recommend buying in store copper tube a whole bay at once, and it doesn’t matter if there’s an extra one left. It can be used elsewhere. But if iron filings remain in the cut tube, you risk damaging the compressor of your air conditioner. Also, when purchasing it, you need to make sure that there are no visible cracks or dents on the surface, and that its ends are rolled by the manufacturer.

Before installing a split system yourself, you need to practice flaring the pipes. It is worth noting that this procedure is done only with a special tool and nothing else.

To practice working with flaring, you need to take the same small piece from the store along with the tube, but do not touch the coil itself. At the same time, you can try to cut the tube in a circular motion, and also scrape the product, holding it end down.

Installation

In order to produce high-quality installation split systems with your own hands, you need to know the sequence of actions. Professionals recommend installing air conditioners only before or during renovation, since you will still have to hammer out walls, lay electrical wiring and attach brackets. If the repairs have already been made, then all communications can be hidden using external boxes, but this, as you yourself understand, will not improve the interior. How to install a split system yourself correctly will help you understand phased implementation this work.

Stage one: electrical wiring

If we take even the lowest-power modern air conditioner, which consumes 1.5 kW of electricity, then it also needs to lay separate wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. In addition, you will need an automatic shutdown.
When connecting the wires to the input panel, you need to find where the phase and zero are located with a special indicator, and after determining, mark them at both ends.

Stage two: outdoor unit

It is strictly not recommended to install an external split system unit yourself if your apartment is not on the first floor, as there is a risk of falling from a height. But on the other hand, thanks to the presence of loggias and balconies on the upper floors, this problem practically does not exist. In addition, maintenance and repair of air conditioners in such cases become more convenient.

Typically, a split system is installed on the east or north side of the house. But even if you had to attach the outdoor unit from the south, the balcony canopy will still protect it from direct exposure to sunlight.

Stage three: indoor unit

In order for the installation of a split system with your own hands to be successful, you must strictly follow the sequence of actions. First, using screws, attach special brackets to the ceiling (if it is a floor-ceiling air conditioner) or to the wall ( wall system). Having completed this work, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening, namely, install the indoor unit and connect it. If the structure does not wobble or vibrate, then the brackets are securely fixed.

It is easiest to install a split system with a floor-mounted unit, since it usually does not require fasteners. But you still need to finally decide on its location, because after laying communications it will no longer be possible to rearrange it.

Stage four: punching gutters

If you doubt your knowledge or are not sure about something, you can always get advice from a specialist who will tell you how to install the split system yourself and connect the freon pipes and electric wires, thereby connecting the two blocks to each other. To do this, special gutters are usually punched into the ceiling or walls, but only if it is necessary to lay a hidden pipeline.

If you don’t want to hammer, then there is another option. All wires can be covered with skirting boards or decorative plastic boxes.

If multi-storey building consists of blocks, then before you start punching a hole in the wall, you must first use a rebar detector to determine the places where the iron core lies. Under no circumstances should you cut the reinforcement, since it is located in the external load-bearing wall. According to the standard, the hole diameter must be at least 80 mm. Sometimes you can hear recommendations about 50-60 cm, but here the thickness of the thermal insulation was clearly not taken into account.

In addition, you will definitely need an assistant to stand below and warn people passing nearby, since a piece of brick or concrete accidentally falling from a height can injure someone. Such an incident can be very costly for the owner.

Stage five: connecting pipelines

In order not to make a mistake and to correctly connect all the pipes, you need to carefully study the instructions on how to properly install a split system. First, you need to measure the required length of the tube and cut it off with a margin of at least 1 m. All excess will be used for bends.

Professionals warn that bending tubes must be done with great care, as they can break, and sometimes wrinkles form on their surface. They create obstacles to the free flow of refrigerant, which leads to a significant increase in energy consumption. The minimum permissible bending radius is 100 mm.

Then polyurethane foam hoses or flex insulation are put on the tubes. It is highly undesirable to use foam rubber. After this, threaded flanges are put on them, and the ends are flared. Next, the pipelines are connected to the fittings. The main thing in this work is not to confuse the connection. Most air conditioner manufacturers make the cold and hot fittings different in diameter.

For the drainage system you will need a piece of reinforced plastic pipe. It is connected to the waste pipe using a heat-shrinkable tube or threaded flange. The drainage must be installed at an angle of at least 5-10 mm. This is necessary for the natural flow of water.

Sometimes, for some reason, such a tilt cannot be made. In this case, you will have to additionally install a special pump to pump out moisture. I must say that purchasing it can cost about 70-200 dollars. The price depends on the pump model.

Stage six: sealing and vacuuming

The simplest and reliable way checking sealing - soap solution. To prepare it, you need to buy half a liter of distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it, then throw in shavings of laundry soap.

By using a rubber hose from a bicycle hand pump connected to the outlet nipple, you can easily check the seal quality. This is done like this: one worker pumps up the air, and the other spreads a soap solution onto the threaded connection with a brush and watches for the appearance of bubbles. When they stop swelling, tighten them another 1/8 turn. After completing the work, remove soap deposits with a damp cloth.

Having completed the seal check, the system must be evacuated, i.e., moisture, dust and air that have entered there must be removed. To do this, return the nipple to its place and tighten it. Next, connect a vacuum pump and pump for about an hour. During this time, the moisture from the system should evaporate along with the remaining air.

Final stage: testing

To carry out the tests, the split system is filled with refrigerant from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions. It is worth noting here that air conditioners running on freon cannot be filled with refrigerant, and vice versa.

During testing, the circuit breaker is turned on, and the air conditioner should enter the mode itself. If this does not happen, you need to try running the test using the remote control. If this does not help, you will still have to call specialists, but know that all installation guarantees have already been lost.

In the event that the test is successful, the cold air is released and the blinds are installed in the desired position, you can safely tell yourself and others that you now know how to install a split system yourself. And the final touch - you need to seal the hole in the wall. And not with foam, but thoroughly.