One of the indispensable attributes in the house is an electric iron. Since ancient times, its design has been constantly improved. It all started with the use of improvised means - stones, dies, heated potholders. Then irons appeared that worked using hot coal, alcohol, and gas. In 1903, American Earl Richardson began producing the first electrical appliances.

Design of a modern electric iron

If the iron stops heating and the warranty has already expired, you can try to fix it yourself. To do this, you need to know how to properly disassemble the iron. Modern devices They differ from each other mainly in design, and in construction they have slight differences. Let's list the components:

Possible fixable problems

You need to start troubleshooting by checking the power cord. It is constantly subject to twisting during ironing. To check the integrity of the wire and plug, you need to use a multimeter in continuity mode. If the chain breaks, you need to buy a new one.

Then the integrity of the heating element is checked, which is located in the so-called sole, is the heaviest part. The cord is also checked for circuit integrity.

If you already have repair experience, then you can check the heating element, bimetallic regulator and thermal fuse from the terminal block. To see it you only need to remove the back cover. If the heating element has burned out, then you need to decide what is more profitable - order the sole of this model or buy new device. A faulty bimetallic regulator and thermal fuse can be replaced by yourself.

Step-by-step disassembly of the device

Manufacturers, including Philips, are constantly working to complicate the design to make it more difficult to disassemble yourself. But craftsmen find a way out in this case too. Here is an example of how to disassemble a Philips Azur iron:

Disassembling the philips iron begins with unscrewing the screw on the back cover. It can be covered with a plug. Next, remove the cover with the power cord hinge. Then unscrew the two screws from the end that were under the cover, one on top and two on the bottom. There is another one in front under the lid where water is poured. After this, remove the top cover of the handle. If the cover has latches, carefully push them aside using a knife or screwdriver and lift the handle cover.

Below it is an electronic control board. If it is secured, then unscrew the fastening screw.

To avoid confusion during assembly, It is advisable to record or film the disassembly process. Remove the wires from the terminal block. We move everything we removed to the side. Now you need to remove the temperature control knob. Using a knife and screwdriver, lift it up. Remove the main part of the handle. Under it there is a steam generator chamber and a sole with a heating element. It is necessary to unscrew two bolts at the back and one at the front and remove the steam chamber.

Now you have access to the temperature controller, thermal fuse and heating element. A lot of different dirt accumulates in this part, which negatively affects the operation of the iron. The entire surface must be thoroughly cleaned. Check and if necessary clean all water and steam channels of the sole.

It is more difficult to check the electronic board on which the motion sensor is located. This requires skill in repairing electronic equipment. If the board is not filled with epoxy, visually determine where the two ends of the sensor are located and ring them.

The condition of the circuit depends on the vertical or horizontal position of the board. After checking the integrity of the removed parts, you can begin assembling the iron in the reverse order.

An iron is a fairly simple household device, consisting of a heating element, a light bulb indicating the operation of the modes, a water container used for steaming, a control button and a handle. It is an essential item and cannot be replaced with anything else. That's why its breakdown is so unpleasant. If you have The iron stopped working, you should not repair it yourself, because it is not entirely safe. In addition, it is important to correctly determine reasons for iron breakdown. If the definition is incorrect, there is a high probability of damage to other components of the device.

Let's look at the most common reasons for iron breakdown:

So, The iron is broken. What to do?

Is it worth fixing it yourself? Self-repairing an iron often involves scratches and cracks on the body, which can lead to the thermostat or handle falling out. The device may be damaged so badly that it is no longer possible to repair it. Not everyone, even a technically advanced person, has everything necessary tools for diagnostics and repair of the device, and even more so the necessary spare parts. Often do-it-yourself repair the iron ends with its complete disassembly. In this form they bring it to the service center, which greatly increases the cost of repairs. If The iron stopped working, we advise you to contact the service center. The quality and duration of further operation of the device depends on the level of professionalism and knowledge of the technician who repairs the equipment. We do not recommend turning to friends who supposedly know how repairs are done, or to private craftsmen in order to save money. Large companies that legally offer repair services household appliances, provide high quality repair. Here you are protected by law and therefore do not have to worry about anything.

Our specialists repair irons of varying complexity, regardless of what they were reasons for iron breakdown, and offer services to repair any damage.

November 26 2005
Igor Davidovsky

What does such a necessary household appliance as an iron consist of? According to the principle of operation, the modern iron remains the same as it was in the time of our mothers. So, the iron consists of: a massive sole into which an electric heating element (TEN) is embedded, a bimetallic temperature regulator, a thermal fuse, a water container used in the steaming system, a handle, lamps indicating operating modes and buttons (knobs) for controlling the operation of the steaming system. Next, we will take a closer look at the purpose of the components of irons and find out what you should pay attention to when purchasing a new device.

Sole. She is the most important element iron. Your success in the ironing field mainly depends on it. First you need to decide which quality of the sole plays the main role for you - strength or ease of sliding. If the first, then the basis of the sole should be stainless steel, which has held the lead for several decades, being still the most common material for making iron soles, but it is not easy to slide. True, to eliminate this drawback, devices from many manufacturers (Braun, Siemens, Bosh, Tefal, etc.) when generating steam, form a special air cushion between the sole and the fabric, facilitating the sliding of the iron. But still, it will not replace the soles, which already contain materials that provide a high slip coefficient. Most often, this is an ordinary enamel coating, which, although it has such an irreplaceable property, is still a delicate and vulnerable material, and if handled carelessly, scratches and chips may appear on such a sole. The same applies to Teflon coatings.

Today, every self-respecting company has patented soles made from special compounds (compounds of various materials). Alas, apart from mysterious beautiful names, we can get little specific information and, accordingly, we cannot blindly trust the manufacturer who claims the unique strength of its sole.

In my opinion perfect option- polished (mirror) steel sole.

Temperature regulators They are mainly used of the bimetallic type; this is a completely reliable iron unit that does not cause much trouble. Irons with electronic regulators They are less common, and their price is very different from ordinary bimetallic regulators.

The electrical circuit of the irons has not undergone any changes in principle. The only thing that has been added is a thermal fuse, which turns off the heating element if the main regulator does not operate and the temperature of the sole exceeds the temperature at which the thermal fuse operates. There are two schemes for connecting the heating element to the network.

Thermal fuses There are two types: disposable and reusable.

Reusable thermal fuses are made according to the bimetal principle (like the main regulator of the iron). When the set temperature is exceeded, the contact breaks and the power supply circuit to the heating element is interrupted. After the iron cools down, the bimetallic contact again closes the power circuit of the heating element. Thus, a reusable thermal fuse prevents the iron from overheating (if the main thermostat does not work) and completely burning out.

A disposable thermal fuse can perform its function only once. When the set temperature is exceeded, it breaks the power supply circuit of the heating element, thus protecting the iron from overheating and burnout of the heating element. Unfortunately, after the disposable thermal fuse trips, further operation of the iron without repair is impossible. It is disposable and disposable in Africa.

The steam system control buttons are used to regulate the water supply for steam generation. Usually there are two buttons and a knob. One of the buttons is used to supply a one-time portion of water to the steam generation chamber (the so-called steam boost), the other is used to wet clothes from the sprayer installed in the front of the iron. The handle is used to regulate the water supply for constant steam generation (do not forget to turn off the water supply when the iron is not working, as this can lead to a large puddle under the iron).

The operation of the iron is indicated using light bulbs. Usually there is one red light, it indicates that the heating process is taking place to the set temperature. However, there are models with two lights - one red and one green. The red light performs the same function as in the first case, and the green light indicates that the iron is plugged into the mains (socket).

Repair.

Nothing is eternal under the Moon. One fine or not so fine day, after plugging in the iron and waiting for 5-10 minutes, you realize that it is not working. So beautiful, comfortable, familiar, and yet it doesn’t work. The solution is to throw it away and buy a new one, which is not the best option. This means it needs repairs. In 80% of cases, the iron can be returned to working condition. At 20% the heating element burns out and in this case it is really cheaper to throw it away and please yourself with a new purchase.

For repairs you will need the following tool:

• Screwdriver Set
• tester or battery with light bulb

Before starting repairs, it is necessary to evaluate the external manifestations of the malfunction. 99% of irons have light alarm. This is, as a rule, a red light, signaling the heating process of the heating element (thermoelectric heating element). There are options with two lights - green and red, in this case the green light indicates that the iron is plugged into the outlet and 220 V is applied to it, and the red light indicates the process of turning the heating element on and off.

If not one of the lights lights up in all positions of the thermostat, then the first suspicion falls on the serviceability of the cord.

The biggest difficulty in repairing modern irons is disassembling them. Designers dictate their own rules and therefore all the screws holding the structure together are hidden and are quite difficult to find. It is impossible to describe all designs, there are a great many of them, but there are several general principles:

• The plastic body of the iron is always attached to the soleplate using screws (I have not come across any iron in which only plastic latches were used for fastening)
• The screws are usually hidden under decorative plugs, light filters for light bulbs, and a water container for the steaming system.
• You should always try to disassemble the iron so that after assembly you won’t be ashamed to look at your work.
• Be careful not to break the plastic latches of the parts

Electrical Cord Repair

First of all, you need to remove the back cover that covers the place where the electrical cord comes out. Finding the back cover screws is usually not difficult. By removing the back cover, you can check the integrity of the electrical cord; 20% of faults are associated with a break in the wire where the cord exits the iron or plug.

To check the integrity of the cord, you will need a tester or an ordinary continuity tester (battery, light bulb and piece of wire).

One end coming from the light bulb is connected to the pins of the plug, and the other, coming from the battery, alternately to the wires coming out of the power cord. It is not necessary to check the wire in yellow-green insulation; this is the so-called protective neutral wire. If the light is on, then the wire is OK and you need to look for the fault further.

If the light does not light, then you can be congratulated on finding the problem.

To eliminate this malfunction, it is usually enough to shorten the cord by 10-15 centimeters and reconnect it to the place where these wires were screwed (after first checking its integrity again, if the continuity light does not light, then the wire is damaged near the plug and it must be replaced) It should be noted that the electrical cord of the irons is special; its wires have rubberized insulation that can withstand high temperatures. Therefore, any wire will not work here; it needs rubberized insulation.

If the wire is normal, then you will have to disassemble the iron further. Before further disassembly, you need to sketch out the wiring diagram, then this drawing will greatly facilitate your assembly.

Temperature controller repair.

Having disconnected all the wires, you must try to remove the plastic case to get to the temperature controller and heating element. First, we remove the temperature regulator handle; to do this, we insert a flat metal plate (you can use a knife) under the regulator handle and try to lift it up, using little effort. If it doesn’t work, we leave everything as is and look for the screws securing the iron body to its base. There are no difficulties with the back of the case, but in front the screw is usually hidden either by a special plug or a lid (covering the hole for pouring water into the steamer).

Be that as it may, after a thorough inspection you will still find, figure out, get to this screw or screws.

After unscrewing all the screws, you can remove the case and get to the parts internal structure your iron. Now you can continue troubleshooting further.

First, let's check whether the temperature regulator works; to do this, twist the regulator rod from one extreme position to the other. It happens that the regulator is very difficult to turn, in this case you need to use pliers and try to develop a rotation unit by turning the regulator rod several times from one extreme position to the other. Having achieved ease of rotation, rub the thread of this assembly with a simple soft pencil. Graphite is not afraid of high temperatures and has good lubricating properties.

Turn the adjuster rod from one extreme position to the other.

In one of the positions the contact group should operate (with a characteristic click). Using a continuity test, check the presence of an electrical circuit with closed contacts. To do this, we connect one end of the dial to one contact, the other to the other, and by turning the regulator axis, we observe the light bulb lighting up and going out. If the light does not light up, you need to thoroughly clean the contacts using a strip of sandpaper or a nail file (from the manicure set).

Thermal fuse repair.

Next, you should check the integrity of the thermal fuse by connecting continuity wires to it on both sides. If the light does not light, then He is the culprit of the malfunction and the hour of your lost time. This happens in 50-60% of cases.

The simplest way out of this situation would be to throw out this thermal fuse, and electrical circuit short-circuit at this point. If the main temperature controller is working properly, the absence of a thermal fuse will not affect the operation and safety of the iron at all.

In order to short-circuit an electrical circuit you will not need a lot of imagination. There can be many options. This includes soldering with high-temperature solder and crimping conductors with a copper tube (from the rod ballpoint pen), using a spring from a lighter, switching the 220 V supply wires. The main thing is to achieve reliable contact between the connection points.

Iron sole with heating element, thermostat, steam generation chamber and thermal fuse (disposable)

Heating element repair.

If the thermal fuse, temperature controller and power cord are working properly, we are left with the only and most unpleasant option - burnout of the heating element. In most cases, the heating element is rolled into the soleplate of the iron and replacing it is a technically quite complicated procedure and, accordingly, economically impractical.

However, there are designs in which the current-supplying conductors are not welded to the contacts of the heating element, but are connected using lugs. Rarely, there is such strong oxidation of the contact points between the tips and the heating element that the electrical circuit is broken. In this case, it is necessary to ensure reliable contact in this connection, which is achieved by thoroughly cleaning the joints using sandpaper, a needle file, a nail file, etc.

If the heating element burns out and you decide to throw away your once so useful and beloved iron, keep the cord from it. You may need it when repairing your new favorite iron or other electrical appliance. In the end, it can serve as a powerful argument in the difficult task of educating the younger generation.

Steam system repair

Iron steaming systems have several nuances:

1. Always use distilled (ideally), filtered (filters for drinking water) or boiled water. This will protect your iron from scale formation in the steam generation cavity and ensure a long service life.
2. If you are not using a steamer, empty the water from the iron and set the steam control to maximum. This will extend the life of the steam dosage unit.

Repairing a steam system usually involves removing scale from your pet's internal steam cavities. During normal use of a household iron, after about half a year there is a need to clean the steaming system. When using distilled water, this period increases several times.

Cleaning your iron at home is quite simple. To do this, we need a container for water, which we need to place in so that the water covers the metal base by 1-1.5 cm. This container can be an ordinary large frying pan. Don't forget to set the steam regulator to maximum or cleaning.

The iron should stand on metal spacers, the role of which can be successfully performed by ordinary coins. It is enough to lift only the back of the iron. In our case, no spacers were required, since the back of the iron rests on the edge of the pan and water can freely penetrate into the steam generation chamber.

Under no circumstances plug the heating iron into a power outlet!!!

Add table vinegar to the water at the rate of 1 glass of vinegar per 1 liter of water. After these preparations, we put our entire structure on the stove and bring it to a boil, after which we turn off the stove and let the water cool a little. We perform this procedure 2-4 times. Instead of vinegar, you can use citric acid or kettle descaling products.

I have tried many branded products for removing scale from irons, but none of them allowed me to achieve the same result as the method suggested to you.

And I’d better not say anything about the price of these funds. After descaling, rinse the iron in cold water and leave it to dry for a couple of hours.

That's all, now your assistant will not throw out scale flakes and leave stains on your snow-white linen.

Before you begin the ironing process itself, you need to prepare workplace and iron. The surface of the sole must be perfectly clean, as lint and dust can stick to the fabric. Do not wipe the sole if it is still hot.

Woolen items and dark fabric It is advisable to iron through a special ironing cloth, otherwise it will begin to shine. It is not recommended to wear clothes immediately after ironing, because fabric that is still warm tends to wrinkle quickly: hang it on a hanger for half an hour and it will retain its shape longer. Today there are many types of different fabrics, both natural and synthetic, so before ironing the item, look at the label, which indicates the optimal temperature regime for this type of fabric. If there are no recommendations on this matter, then try first ironing a small piece of fabric from the wrong side and, depending on this, increase or decrease the heating of the iron.

Start ironing with items made of thin fabrics (silk, acetate), which require a minimum temperature regime, gradually move on to fabrics that can be ironed even at high temperature.

When ironing mixed fiber fabrics first, look at the composition and adjust your iron according to the fiber that requires the lowest heat. Then proceed to things made of silk and synthetics (by the way, artificial silk can be ironed at medium temperature), and do not forget that it is undesirable to use the steaming function on such fabrics - the fabric may shrink and lose its appearance. Natural silk can be wetted first and immediately ironed. It is recommended to iron woolen items at a moderate temperature without using steam. Fabrics like crepe de Chine shrink quite a bit after washing, so soak it in water first. warm water, and then iron at a temperature of approximately 100°C

The easiest way to iron items is made of cotton and linen: they can be ironed at the highest temperature, feel free to use steam. The only “but”: it is also advisable to iron linen and colored cotton from the wrong side, otherwise there is a possibility of shine appearing on the fabric.

Faux fur, suede and leather should not be ironed using steam (the fibers may simply melt). Fabrics with a shiny surface can be ironed with front side and with steam, and matte fabrics - from the inside out, so that unnecessary shine does not appear. Fabrics with pile should be ironed with reverse side and in the direction of the pile, and for greater efficiency, you can place a fleecy fabric under it, then the pile will not wrinkle (a terry towel can also be used for this purpose).

Save time

To make the ironing process as efficient and quick as possible, we can give you some useful tips:

Start ironing shirts and blouses with a ruffle (if there are any, of course), then iron one sleeve (preferably on a specially designed sleeve), then the collar and top of the back, the back itself, and lastly, the darts.

Iron pleated fabric as follows: the folds at the top of the skirt, at the waist, are the hardest to iron, so just steam the fabric without pressing the iron too hard on the fabric, and then hang the skirt on a hanger and let the fabric cool.

Iron dresses made of wool from the wrong side, and pockets and finishing details from the front, but through a slightly dampened fabric. The ironing pattern is the same as for shirts: first the details, then along the entire length.

To ensure that the creases on your trousers last a long time, run dry soap over them from the inside, and then iron them from the front through a damp ironing cloth.

Always carefully monitor your appearance, take care of your hair, clothes and shoes. Everyone knows that the most important thing in a person is intelligence, but one still meets people by their clothes...

Conclusion

Naturally, there are also more sophisticated irons with an electronic temperature controller, with a water supply for a pressure steaming system, cordless ones with a heating stand, etc. However, all the above causes of malfunctions and methods for eliminating them are also suitable for their repair.

If the repair is unsuccessful, we go to the store and choose a new assistant.

Now let's talk about purchasing such a necessary home life things like iron. Before purchasing, first of all, decide what exactly you need the iron for. If in addition to your own person, numerous relatives also live in your apartment, and your wardrobe is filled to capacity with clothes, an iron with maximum power (2000-2400 W) and steam supply will be indispensable. But keep in mind that such a purchase will lighten your wallet by about $70-80

You can even purchase a steam station, which will reduce ironing time to a minimum. But, firstly, it takes up more space than a regular iron, and secondly, such devices are quite expensive, ranging from $120-170, which is affordable only to wealthy people. If you are a single person, then a medium-power iron will be enough for you. (~1500 W).

The weight category of the iron is no less important. In the days of coal and cast iron irons, clothes were ironed mainly due to the overwhelming weight of the device. Today there is no need for this, so the lighter the iron, the easier it will be for you to handle it, although some people like heavier irons.

We would like to make a separate point about the water tank. In this case, the larger the capacity, the better. The most common models are with a capacity of 250 ml. The largest tank to date is 350 ml (one of the achievements of Siemens).

Next, pay attention to the variety of steam functions. You should not buy an iron that does not have a constant supply of steam and a steam boost, which are necessary to smooth out deep folds: even if without steam supply the fold has disappeared from the surface of the fabric, you cannot be sure that it will be forever. Most likely, it will appear again in 1-2 hours.

Be sure to ask the seller to show detailed characteristics of the steam functions, they are also of great importance: if the maximum steam supply reaches 15 g/min, it is unlikely that you will be able to iron thick fabric with it. It is also necessary to adjust the steam supply, since different types of fabric require different intensity. Some companies do not indicate such parameters at all. Well, in this case we can only rely on the integrity of the manufacturers.

If you want the iron to last a long time, then it must be equipped with protective functions (anti-lime rod, self-cleaning function, etc.) Each company has protective functions operate on different principles, so ask the seller what the model you like is equipped with and how these functions work. It’s difficult to recommend anything specific here, as they say, depending on taste and color... Although I don’t recommend that you buy an iron with a replaceable cartridge, because buying a spare one won’t be so easy, there’s a high chance that you’ll have to go to more than one store before than you find it.

So, you have already found out for yourself which device will suit you completely. There are little things left: choose the design you like and estimate the amount you are willing to pay for the purchase. The main thing that needs to be taken into account is trademark iron. Philips, Siemens, Braun, Tefal, Rowenta, Bosh are leaders in the production of household appliances. Their quality is more reliable, and the devices themselves are more expensive, $60-80. If you are counting on $20-30 when purchasing, then you should pay attention to irons Scarlett, Unit, Binatone, Clatronic, Vitek, Vigod, etc.

Remember that if the iron meets all your requirements, ironing will cease to be torture, and when working with it you will receive, if not pleasure, then at least complete satisfaction.

I hope that reading this article will help you choose, properly operate and extend the life of such a necessary device as an iron.

Igor Davidovsky 2005.

All the best, writeto © 2006

1. Abstract reasoning
2. Tool
3. How does a steam iron work?
4. Electrical diagram
5. Thermal protection
6. Thermostat
7. How to get there?
8. What's wrong with anyone

Repairing an iron with your own hands is a classic of the household genre, but now, unfortunately, the currents of surrealism are becoming stronger in it. To disassemble a modern iron, a novice master needs to have the skills to solve Chinese puzzles: Hidden latches everywhere, tricky tenon joints, shaped fasteners. Should I take it to the workshop? The cost of repairs may be such that it is easier to buy a new iron. Let's try to fix ours without having vocational training and without special tools.

Abstract reasoning

Manufacturers justify turning the iron into a kind of combination lock with safety, design and ergonomic requirements. But, sorry, from the visible fasteners on the irons there were only 1-2 screws at the back, and that remains so. Moreover, the body parts of old irons were made from fragile bakelite and polystyrene, while today’s plastics compete with metals in strength.

In fact, we, alas, live in an age of things that are not eternal. One of the fundamental principles of consumer society is inexorable: a product of mass demand must work flawlessly (manufacturer’s reputation, but what) no more than 2-2.5 warranty periods, and then quickly and irreversibly fall into complete disrepair. Leading manufacturers of consumer goods employ up to half or more of their design personnel to ensure that, God forbid, the product does not turn out to be too durable.

How does the industry's work on the trash can affect the environment? mass consciousness- attracting truly high-quality specialists to actually harmful activities is another question, but the iron almost does not yield to such attempts: it is too simple, and inside it is too hot and humid. Therefore, damage to the iron at the design stage comes down mainly to making it difficult to disassemble it outside the service center. However, it is still possible to repair an iron at home using improvised means if you know where and what secrets may be hidden in it and how to open them without the risk of completely ruining the iron.

Tool

To successfully repair the iron, let's first prepare some homemade instrument; It will not take much time and will not require significant expenses:

• 2-4 lid squeezers;
• squeezer for hidden latches;
• cheap led flashlight(specifically LED) and a magnifying glass;
• a strip of suede, a nail file, alcohol;
• or, instead of step 4 - a pencil eraser, an ink eraser, a piece of a clean cloth, alcohol.

Note: on the purpose of tools according to paragraphs. 4 and 5 see below.

Push-ups

The lid squeezer is made from the top, strongest layer of bamboo, the size and thickness of an ice cream stick; one end of it is cut into a wedge. The covers on the body of irons are often placed on latches without fixing. IN service center Such a lid is compressed with special pliers and removed. To remove it using a makeshift method, you need to pry off the cover: the teeth of the latches without fixing are beveled on both sides and come out of the grooves intact. But open the lids on tight latches with a table knife or a wide screwdriver, as in Fig. on the right, don’t: the steel will leave marks on the plastic. The flexural strength of the surface layer of bamboo is higher than that of plastics, and the shear strength is lower. Therefore, a bamboo squeezer will remove the lid if it is properly lifted, but perhaps it will be crushed from the surface on its own without damaging the plastic. If the lid is not lifted correctly and does not give in, the bamboo squeezer will break without damaging the iron. They use bamboo squeezers in pairs, prying the part from both sides.

A good thin squeezer for fixed latches is obtained from a plastic coffee stirrer cut into a wedge, which are issued by coffee machines. The squeezer from the stirrer fits into any gap and gently removes the latches with fixation, without scratching or breaking either them or the body parts.

Flashlight and magnifying glass

Cheap mini LED flashlights produce very hard light with harsh shadows. In this case, this is an advantage: such light penetrates deeply into thin cracks, and under a magnifying glass you can see what the part is holding there. To do this, first they pry off the lid, which is not clear how to remove, with bamboo squeezers, highlight it and look at what is holding it there.

How to handle latches

It is best, of course, to find a diagram for disassembling the iron of this model, but try it! AND standard schemes Don’t look for the location of the secret locks either: they can be different for the same model from the same manufacturer. Have you read in the instructions: “The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes to the design that do not affect the performance of the product”? That is, when disassembling the iron, you will most likely have to look for hidden connections yourself.

It must be said that Western companies are gradually moving away from the principle: “Do you want to fix it yourself? Well, break it and buy a new one!” But Asians stubbornly cling to it. For example, if your iron is Chinese, then the nose mounting screw (see below) will most likely be not under the filler cap, but... under the water and steam supply buttons!

Let's light it up and see. Do you see the green circle in the pic? So, this is not a latch, but a sliding tenon in a groove. The latches are on the other side of the buttons. To remove the buttons and disassemble the iron, you need to:

• Push forward button.
• Insert the wringer from the mixer behind it.
• Release the latch.
• Without removing the wringer, lift the button up until it stops. You should hear a faint click of the latch tooth coming out of the groove.
• While holding the button so as not to fall, remove the wringer.
• Continuing to hold the button, move it forward with an inclination so that the sliding tenon turns out of the groove.
• Do the same with the other button.

Shaped fasteners

The screws in irons from Western manufacturers are most often either ordinary with a Phillips or hexagon head. For the latter, there is no point in buying a special screwdriver with a set of bits for a one-time repair: a screw with a hexagonal slot can simply be unscrewed with a flat screwdriver with a thin blade of a suitable width. It can also be used to unscrew screws with a trefoil slot, which the Chinese are very fond of (on the right in the figure), but without strong pressure: this creates a significant lateral force and the screw in the thread can simply jam. If the screw is tight, it is torn off with a series of small jerks, moving the screwdriver to other pairs of slots.

The most difficult thing will be to unscrew the screw with the TORXX slot (on the right in the figure): scissors or tweezers will only take it if the screw is loose in the thread. It is most convenient to unscrew TORXX screws without a special key using small duckbill pliers; You can also use side cutters, but then there will be dents on the slot bridge. They won't do anything to Vintu, but experienced master, suddenly this iron gets to him and charges him for repairs for previous unqualified access.

How does a steam iron work?

But where to look for all these secret screws? To do this, you first need to familiarize yourself with the structure of a modern iron with a steam generator (steamer). Its general diagram is shown in Fig.:

An impact steaming system (with superheated steam) is installed only in certain models, because it is effective only in the thermostat position close to the maximum (three points). In good irons with shock steaming, the shock pump is blocked if the regulator is set to 1-2 points. What is always written about in the instructions, how, pray tell, does a normal housewife read the instructions for an iron? That is, if there is no steam boost, then perhaps to eliminate the “malfunction” you just need to turn the temperature regulator.

The positional protection module turns off the heating element if the position of the sole of the iron differs from horizontal: it was placed upright, dropped, etc. This is perhaps the only electronic innovation in irons. IN quality irons positional protection is the second most common source of breakdowns (after scale in the steamer, see at the end), but at home it is most often quite repairable.

How the Chinese soar

If you look at the soles of even cheap Chinese irons, it turns out that many of them have fictitious, fake drip humidification nozzles. In fact, when fully heated, a burst of steam is produced by pressing the steam button; in the same position of the thermostat, soft steam comes from the button with droplets, and for drip humidification in this case you need to press both buttons at once.

Electrical diagram

The electrical circuit of the iron is shown in the following. rice.:

The KM relay and the SK position sensor constitute the position protection. On its board there may be a power indicator, which in this case is LED, and not on the neon. Positional protection without compromising consumer qualities The iron can be turned off, but if the indicator is LED, then if the “positioner” is completely turned off, it will stop working. This is inconvenient, so faulty positional protection must be partially disabled (see below).

The numbers with indices show the sequence of testing the “hot” and “cold” circuits with a multimeter: one probe with an alligator clip is connected to the pin of the power plug, and the others go along the points. Both continuities should converge on the contacts of the KM relay. The fact is that the KM contacts are normally open: when the iron is plugged in and the thermostat contacts are closed, the KM pulls, its contacts are closed and current flows through them to the heating element. It is necessary that any malfunction of the positional protection itself disables the heating element (the principle of excess safety), but this circumstance can mislead an inexperienced technician.

Note: when checking, it may turn out that there is a miscontact in the connecting cap, see fig. on right. The only way out is to bite it off and reconnect the wires into a new one.

Thermal protection

The thermal fuse (thermal) is triggered if the temperature of the soleplate of the iron exceeds 240 degrees or the current through the heating element exceeds a certain specified value. That is, the thermal fuse to replace the unsuitable one must also be selected according to the current, depending on the power of the iron:

• 2200 W – 25 A.
• 1500 W – 16 A.
• 1000 W – 10 A.
• 600 W – 6.3 A.

Thermal current redundancy is needed because 220 V is the effective (effective) value of the mains voltage; the amplitude is 220 V x 1.4 = 308 V. The duration of the half-cycle of the frequency 50 Hz is 10 ms, and the thermal response time is 4-5 ms. Suddenly, the network voltage jumps to the maximum permissible value of 245 V, the thermal fuse for the operating current of the heating element may burn out in a perfectly serviceable iron.

Thermal fuses are disposable (pos. 1 in the figure), resettable, pos. 2, and self-healing, pos. 3. The first ones burn out and must be installed in a dielectric heat-resistant sleeve (usually made of fiberglass), otherwise a breakdown of the network voltage at the base is very likely. In a resettable thermal fuse, the prestressed bimetallic strip “snaps” and opens the contacts. To restore it, you need to press it through the window in the contact until it clicks back with something sharp. Self-healing thermal protection will return to its original state if the iron is unplugged and allowed to cool completely. Self-healing thermals are structurally combined with a thermostat (see below) and are always supplemented with a current fuse.

Thermostat

The soleplate temperature regulator is the most important component of the iron and one of the most susceptible to breakdowns; It is a mechanical trigger device driven by a bimetallic plate. There are no “magnets, like in a refrigerator regulator,” in the iron’s thermostat. Like the refrigerator thermostat, there is also a mechanical trigger, only of a different design. The principle of its operation is simple:

1. The part with the movable contact is pressed against the fixed one by a reversible spring. The contacts are closed, the heating element is heating up. The degree of compression of the spring is regulated by the temperature setting knob.
2. On the other hand, the movable contact is connected by a dielectric pusher rod to a bimetallic plate.
3. The bimetallic plate, bending from heat, presses through the rod onto the movable contact until it overpowers the spring.
4. The spring is thrown over and opens the contacts.
5. The heating element turns off, the sole of the iron with the bimetallic plate cools down.
6. The bimetallic strip is straightened. When its pressure weakens sufficiently, the spring is thrown back and returns the regulator to its original state.

The heating element heats up again, the cycle repeats. In old irons and some new ones, the thermostat is assembled according to the scheme with a free rocker arm (item 1 in the figure):

Its disadvantages are 2 pairs of contacts susceptible to burning and large hysteresis, i.e. difference between the response and return temperatures of the regulator. Therefore, in regulators with a free rocker there is always an adjustment screw under the handle, which is turned if the iron heats too much (tighten it by 1-2 turns) or weakly (unscrew it the same amount). To access the calibration screw, you need to remove the temperature control knob. It sits on the axis by friction, but is held in the body by claws with stops, see fig. on right. To remove the handle, you need to turn it all the way to the minimum (at the first point) and pull it up.

Most modern irons are equipped with a unified double-spring thermostat, pos. 2: it works very clearly and almost never requires adjustment during operation. Its weaknesses, firstly, are the same as in the previous one. case, contacts, see below. Secondly, there is a ceramic rod (indicated in blue), which sometimes cracks. The rod length is 8 mm, and a new one can be made from an MLT-0.5 W resistor, pos. 2a. The resistor leads are bitten to a length of 1.5-2 mm, the paint is washed off with dichloroethane or a surfactant remover, and the conductive layer is cleaned off with sandpaper. If the resistance of the resistor is more than 620-680 kOhm, some people install it instead of the rod as is, the paint burns without smoke or stink. However, then the sole of the iron may unpleasantly “pinch” with electricity. And what is much worse, the resistance of a resistor with an unprotected conductive layer can decrease several times, and the leakage current through it can increase to a dangerous value.

Note 3: sometimes the insert washers in thermostats crack. A new one can be machined from fluoroplastic instead; drawing see pos. 2b.

How to clean contacts

There is no need to clean the burnt contacts of the iron temperature regulator with sandpaper, as many sources advise: they operate under high current and after cleaning with sandpaper they quickly burn again. In the regulators of modern irons, the contacts are thin-walled stamped, and in this case they burn through to holes. To clean the contacts, you need to wrap a nail file along the suede moistened with alcohol, insert it between the contacts and rub until the suede stops getting very dirty with carbon deposits. An alternative is to cut a thin wedge out of an ink eraser and use it to clean the contacts. Then - with the same wedge made from a pencil eraser. Finally, wrap the nail file in a rag moistened with alcohol instead of suede and use it to remove any adhering particles of the eraser from the contacts.

Note: due to the thermostat, such a situation is also possible - the iron heats at maximum, regardless of the position of the temperature setting knob; Adjusting the calibration screw does not help. This means that the contacts of the regulator are welded and it needs to be replaced.

How to get there?

All this is good, but our iron has not yet been disassembled. In general, disassembling the iron is done as follows. way:

• Remove the temperature setting knob.
• Remove the back cover (possibly together with the top).
• Remove the contact block.
• Filming top cover.
• Remove the body.
• Remove the thermostat casing (if equipped).

After this, all components of the iron become available for inspection and repair. Of course, each stage has its own subtleties and features. We will consider some further, not as examples of models from individual manufacturers, but for now let’s focus on the general “problems”.

Back cover

This is the only part secured with a screw(s) visible from the outside. There may be 2 of the latter below. In this case, 2 options are possible: the back cover is integral with the top and separately. In the first case, the handle of the iron will be straight, and both covers are immediately pulled back, pushing the upper one with your fingers: it sits with horizontal spikes in the longitudinal grooves.

If the covers are separate and the back cover is on one or 2 screws, then again 2 cases are possible: the back cover is flush with the body and on the cover. In the first case, the lid is pulled towards you by the bottom - at the top it is secured with spikes in the grooves, which will turn out and the lid will come out. The second case concerns almost exclusively covers with one screw in the middle. If the lid does not come out after unscrewing the screw and does not pull at the bottom, then it has double tenons in the grooves, at the top and at the bottom. Then you need to push the lid up so that the lower tenons are released, and then pull the bottom so that the upper ones turn out of the grooves.

Block

After removing the back cover, the contact block will be visible, this is already the source of malfunctions. In some irons (not necessarily cheap ones) the contact block is a regular screw one (item 1 in the figure), it can melt, then you need to change it to propylene. Polyethylene and PVC will not withstand the iron!

Pads with slip-on terminals (item 2) are the most reliable, but for further disassembly of the iron, the terminals must be removed. To do this, their protrusions-clamps are pressed through the holes in the contacts with an awl or a thin screwdriver.

To remove the solid cut-in block (item 3), you need to unscrew 2 screws of the power cord clamp and 2 screws holding the block itself. If the network wires do not ring accordingly. sockets of the block (green arrows on item 4), the block needs to be changed or plug-in terminals must be installed on the wires, because The wires in the terminal block cannot be re-terminated.

Top cover

The curved top cover is held in place by tight latches without locking. At home, it is removed with a pair of squeezers (see above), starting, as a rule, from the rear end. It doesn’t work - you need to try from the front.

Positional defense

Under the top cover of most irons there is a positional protection module. The most vulnerable part of it is the position sensor. As a rule, this is a plastic box (red arrows in the figure) with only a couple of terminals. The position sensor is either closed with a tight-fitting lid, or filled with a compound on top that can be picked out.

A malfunction of the position sensor is typical: the iron does not turn on, and if you shake it, it may turn on for a while and turn off spontaneously again. When disassembling the sensor, it is discovered that inside there are a pair of contacts and a metal roller, covered with something viscous and dirty. The sensor was initially filled with clean and clear silicone grease, but the winding current powerful relay sufficient for the contacts to spark. The filling becomes contaminated with carbon deposits, the roller does not close the contacts well and does not move as it should.

They remove unusable silicone with table vinegar, but you cannot leave the roller dry: when ironing, the relay will “pop” all the time, the iron will heat up unpredictably, and the sensor will soon completely fail. Instead of silicone, the sensor must be filled with any liquid machine oil; By the way, it is more resistant to contamination and dampens sparks better than silicone. The sensor is washed with alcohol, a needle from a medical syringe is put on the spout of the oil can and the sensor is filled carefully so that the oil does not flow onto the walls. Once filled, the lid is glued back with “Titanium” or other superglue; if the walls are oily, the glue will not hold.

Note: in irons Brown and some. In other cases, the signal from the position sensor is processed by a microcircuit (upper position in the figure). In this case, the position sensor roller can be left dry.

Another possible malfunction is burnt contacts or a burnt-out relay winding, then the iron will not turn on at all. To check, the module must be removed from the iron and applied to the relay winding operating voltage permanent or alternating current, which is indicated on the relay body (green arrows). A click should be heard and the tester should show contact closure. No - the relay needs to be changed.

Note: If you are not sure that the winding voltage is indicated on the relay, you need to measure its resistance. Suddenly, the winding current at the specified voltage turns out to be more than 80-100 mA; it cannot be supplied to the winding. You need to check the relay from a regulated power source. As a rule, the operating voltage of the winding does not exceed 24 V.

It is quite possible to do without positional defense. To partially turn it off (for the heating element indicator to work), you need to unsolder the white wire and connect it to the brown one, or unsolder the red one and connect it to the blue one. In this case, the relay may click and rattle, so it is better to unsolder it too.

Frame

After removing the back cover and contact block, the tenons in the grooves holding the housing will appear (lower position in the figure on the right) or screws, but take your time: the housing is held in place by another screw or two in the area of ​​the iron nose. How the Chinese hide them has already been said, but in other irons they are on the spout under the filler cap. It remains in place after removing the top cover. To remove the filler cap, you need to lift the filler flap and remove the cap with it using squeezers, then the nose screws (upper position) will be visible.

The body of the iron is removed along with the pumps, and their malfunctions become visible, from which either there is no steam, or water flows into the body, the iron crackles, sparks, beats with current: cracked tubes, pipes and valves (nipples) clogged with salt deposits. There is no point in gluing the tubes; any glue in the iron is like a poultice for the dead. First, you need to clean the hydraulic system from scale. For plastic, this is done mechanically, with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. The nipples are washed with a solution citric acid(1 tsp per glass of water). A solution of acetic acid (vinegar) emits chemically aggressive fumes that corrode metal. Then the fragments of the cracked tubes are collected together, pieces of heat-shrinkable tube are put on them (HERE, heat-shrink) and heated with a household hairdryer.

What's wrong with anyone

Tefal

The Tefal iron repair is unique. First, its body is removed along with the top cover. Second, the nose screw is hidden under the water dispenser cover (left and center in the picture); it is visible through translucent plastic. Third, to get to the pumps, you need to remove the top cover with the housing removed. Its screw is hidden under the buttons (on the right in the figure), and it must be unscrewed so that the cover can be removed.

Finally, Tefal is a leader in the production of cordless irons. They come in several types: with contacts on the platform, with a heat-accumulating sole, with a discardable (shooting) cord. The first two are for amateur repair are unusable, and the last one that seems to be faulty may turn out to be completely working.

The cord from the iron is thrown away by a pusher operating from a separate trigger mechanism with its own bimetallic plate. That is, if you, for example, ironed the cuffs and want to heat up the iron further by inserting the cord, but it doesn’t work, then the iron has not cooled down enough. You need to let it cool further, insert the cord, turn the dial to higher heat and wait until the cord bounces off. It’s inconvenient, of course, which is why irons with a detachable cord are not in great demand.

Phillips

A special feature of Philips irons is their double body. For example, the popular Azur is first dealt with in the usual sequence, poses. And in the figure, but the back cover is secured with 2 screws from the bottom. Under the decorative casing with pumps there is an internal one with protection (pos. B), and already under it there is a massive sole (in fact, the third casing) with a thermostat and thermal pad, pos. IN.

Bosch

The design of Bosch irons can be considered typical, and disassembling Bosch irons is even easier than others: the back cover is on one screw and without tricky fasteners. To remove it, you need to unscrew the screw and pull back the input hose of the power cord (see the figure on the right), the cover will fold back together with the hinge, after which further disassembly has no special features.

Brown

The congenital defect of inexpensive Brown irons is the thin-walled steam generator tank made of galvanized steel and the fastening of the thermostat casing with foldable legs made of the same. Both rust perfectly, see fig. on the right, after which repairing the iron loses its meaning.

How to make steam

The same congenital defect of all steam irons without exception is scale. It is difficult to remove it from the non-removable tank of the steam generator, and in no case should you boil the iron in a frying pan with vinegar to do this, as in Fig. Acetic acid fumes will make the plastic brittle, corrode the nickel on the sole to the point of roughness, and if it is coated with Teflon, it will begin to peel off. Firstly, the iron must be disassembled down to the sole for cleaning, see for example. video on how to clean Philips 3240:

Video: example of disassembling and cleaning a Philips 3240 iron

Secondly, as already mentioned, it is better to use a solution of citric acid rather than vinegar. Thirdly, before cleaning, the heating element contacts together with ceramic bushings must be tightly wrapped with good soft electrical tape in 3-4 layers or, better, with heat-shrinkable tape. Fourthly, if the nozzles are clogged with scale, also pierce them with a toothpick before cleaning. And fifthly, after cleaning, thoroughly rinse the hydraulic system of the sole clean water from top to bottom, pouring it into the steam generator tank. Then you can rest assured: the iron will serve as well after cleaning as before.

The electric iron, as we know it, was invented in the 20th century. However, the iron is not a new invention; it was invented back in the 17th century. With the advent of electrical energy in our homes, mass production began electric irons. Today we live in the age of digital technology and new opportunities. Iron from ordinary heating device has long turned into a digital device, stuffed with electronics. The ordinary iron itself has the simplest design- heating element, power indicator and thermal relay. A heating element is often used as a heating element. A heating element is a spiral that is placed in a special housing, often in the form of a pipe. The tube is made of fireproof material - ceramics or metal. When voltage is applied to the coil, it becomes hot - thermal energy supplied to the main metal body of the iron. Typical circuit diagram iron is shown in the picture:

1 - electric heater
2 - thermostat
3 - resistor
4 - lamp
5 - power plug

Other electrical circuits for irons will be added later.

Any iron has an indication system that warns that the heating element is in heating mode. Another important part of any iron is the temperature sensor; it is triggered when the temperature of the heating element reaches its maximum. Iron circuits must have a thermal fuse that turns off the heating element if the main regulator does not operate and the temperature of the sole exceeds the temperature at which the thermal fuse operates. The temperature sensor activates (opens or closes) the relay, the relay in turn turns off the supply voltage to the spiral. When the temperature drops to a minimum level, the temperature sensor is triggered again - turning on the power supply to the heating element.

The power indicator is often gas discharge lamps(for example, neon girls). A modern iron works on the same principle, but with some additions. In particular, the thermostat. It is designed to smoothly regulate the voltage that powers the heating element. By adjusting the voltage, we regulate the degree of heat of the coil, and therefore the temperature of the iron. Another addition is a water tank. The reservoir is usually built into the body of the iron. The water heats up turning into steam and at the right moment the steam can be released - this makes the ironing process better. Today the iron is stuffed with microcontrollers, automatic selection heating temperatures, has a stylish and convenient design, they are not much reminiscent of those irons that were created back in the 17th century.