Many steam lovers dream of having a good, but inexpensive, private bathhouse. A place where you can wash, relax, and get a good boost of energy. One of the affordable and budget options is a do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step instruction construction will reveal the secrets of frame technology, will become an example for independent construction from the foundation to correct selection thermal insulation materials.

Having the skill of assembling frame structures, you can quite simply and quickly with your own hands

Before building a frame bathhouse with your own hands, many people ask themselves: what material to use for its construction? After all, many associate baths with structures made of logs or bricks. But such buildings are quite expensive for their owners, and the time required to warm up, for example, a chopped bathhouse is about 6 hours.

Advantages of frame technology

The construction of a frame bathhouse solves several problems at once, as these are: a simple construction method, the availability of the materials used and the fast speed of construction. The advantages of frame technology include the following:

• the most affordable construction cost;
• use of lightweight types of foundation;
• low thermal conductivity of the structure contributes to rapid heating;
• the possibility of carrying out communications inside the walls, which has a positive effect on the aesthetic component of the bathhouse structure;
• the absence of shrinkage makes it possible to operate the bathhouse immediately after its construction and finishing;
• use of environmentally friendly materials;
• there is no need to use special construction equipment;
• No special construction skills are required when constructing a frame bathhouse yourself. Videos posted online demonstrate this perfectly;
• the absence of wet construction cycles makes it possible to carry out construction regardless of air temperature and water availability;
• many ways to decorate a building.

All these advantages contribute to the increasing popularity of frame baths. Reviews from owners who used this technology during construction indicate that such structures are economical and, if constructed correctly, can create excellent conditions for comfortable use.

Weaknesses of frame baths, reviews from owners

To weigh the pros and cons of the frame bath construction technology, you can ask for reviews from the owners. There is a lot of information on Internet forums from those who already have such a bathhouse and have been using it for some time. Some leave negative reviews: frame baths, in their opinion, tend to quickly lose appearance due to the formation of fungus on the walls. This occurs due to the rapid cooling of the room, no matter how well it is insulated.

This drawback can be eliminated by using only high-quality insulation materials for thermal insulation. It is necessary to approach the choice of thermal insulation material with all seriousness. After all, cheap polystyrene foam or mineral wool will not adequately perform their functions. The use of economy class foam can cause a fire in the structure due to the easy flammability of the insulation.

To one of negative points described in the reviews relates to the shrinkage of the bath. Many testify that over time (approximately within 1.5-2 years) frame construction gives shrinkage, the value of which reaches 8-10 cm. This, in turn, can cause deformation of the internal and exterior finishing buildings.

Helpful advice! To minimize the effects of shrinkage of a frame bath, lumber that has been kiln-dried should be used during construction.

Summarizing the above, we can conclude that the main disadvantages are the significant costs of insulating the walls of a frame bath, the need for thorough antiseptic treatment and low fire resistance. However, given the huge list of advantages, the construction of frame baths is not inferior in popularity to structures made of logs or bricks.

You can get acquainted with some of the assembly nuances and reviews from the owners by watching a video of building a frame bathhouse with your own hands.

DIY frame bath projects. Photos of the best buildings

Getting acquainted with photos and videos of frame baths with their own hands, many decide to build the structure themselves. Having some experience in construction and taking into account the good practice of constructing objects using frame technology, you can build such a bathhouse quite quickly. However, as in any construction, to avoid serious mistakes, a competent project is necessary.

Projects, photos of do-it-yourself frame baths 3x4, 4x4 m

When building a 3x4 m frame bathhouse with your own hands, you must take into account that the space inside the room should be used as ergonomically as possible. Such mini-baths can be built in a small dacha or plot with country house where there is a need to save territory. No more than two people can indulge in bath procedures here.

Before you can build a frame bathhouse quickly and inexpensively, you need to have a ready-made project that you can use as a guide during construction. In principle, a bathhouse can consist of one room, which will combine a steam room, shower and locker room. This is not entirely convenient, since getting dressed after taking procedures in a room with high air temperature and high humidity is not very comfortable.

Typical designs for 3x4 m frame baths provide layouts where separate rooms are allocated for a steam room, a wash room and a relaxation room. Heating of such a bath can be done with one wood stove or a boiler. Drawings of a frame bath can also take into account the presence of a modest veranda.

Do-it-yourself construction of 4x4 or 3x4 frame baths, due to their small size, has its advantages:

• decent savings on building materials - if the length of the wall of the structure is 3 m, a six-meter beam is cut in half and there is practically no waste left;
• speed of construction - having a design and drawing of a frame bath available, it is possible to erect the structure within 2 weeks;
• strength and durability - given that a minimum of materials is required, you don’t have to skimp on the quality of wood and choose a high-quality material with good impregnation.

Helpful advice! Any new building on your site, even small sauna, is subject to mandatory registration in the cadastral register.

A review of photos of frame baths of a small area will help you get acquainted with the projects and choose an option to your liking.

Projects of 6x6 frame baths with an attic

If you are the owner of a large plot of land, it makes sense to build a beautiful and spacious bathhouse. You can steam in it yourself and invite friends - there is enough space for everyone. In projects of frame baths with an attic, a layout has been developed where the rest room, as a rule, occupies up to 20 square meters. m. In the same room there is a staircase leading to attic floor, which is usually used as a bedroom.

Many users post online photos of the stages of building a frame bathhouse with their own hands. Photo reports will help you visually familiarize yourself with the nuances of independent construction.

Insulation scheme for a frame bath

One of important points in the assembly of a frame bath is its thermal insulation. Both the selection of material and its installation should be approached with all responsibility. Mineral wool can be used as insulation. This material is characterized by high vapor permeability, it is non-flammable and walls with such insulation “breathe”. This achieves the effect of a log bath.

You can lay mineral fiber formed into slabs or rolls, but it is preferable to use the first option. Insulation boards are laid between the racks. If the sheets in the corners of the frame niche are deformed and do not fit tightly, it is necessary to straighten the sheets using a knife. The insulation must be in close contact with the wooden frame elements around the entire perimeter, as well as with each other.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend insulating a frame bath with two layers of 5 cm each: the first layer is made of insulation in slabs, the second is made of rolled material. Thus, all connecting lines will be blocked.

A layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation boards and the outer skin of the frame. For this you can use, for example, Tektoten film. The fact is that during operation, the open insulation is partially blown into ventilation gap, which leads to a decrease in the thickness of the insulation and a deterioration in its thermal insulation properties. Laying wind-waterproofing protection from a vapor-permeable membrane will guarantee the effectiveness of the thermal insulation layer.

WITH inside arrange a vapor barrier from polyethylene aluminum foil. The joints of the film are glued with tape, after which the interior finishing begins. The process of insulating the frame is quite labor-intensive and requires careful execution. If the technology is not maintained, mineral wool may shrink over time, which will affect the thermal insulation parameters of the entire structure.

The video below will demonstrate in more detail the technology of structural insulation during the construction of a frame bath.

Roof arrangement

For a small bathhouse, a gable or hipped roof shape is suitable. Easier to implement - gable. The rafter system of such a roof is made of wooden beams 15x5 cm. For convenience and safety, all structural elements should be assembled on the ground. To avoid errors during assembly, it is recommended to make a layout, the shape of which will be repeated by all rafter elements.

In order to make a model, you need to connect the upper ends of the two rafters with a nail. The lower edges of the rafter legs are placed and secured at the points where the supports are planned. The resulting figure is fixed crossbar- crossbar. The crossbar is connected to the rafter legs using screws.

When all the roof trusses have been assembled, they begin installing them on site. The first step is to fix the front elements, between which a construction cord is pulled for reference. Its location will coincide with the line of the roof ridge. The remaining elements are mounted at its level. The pitch between trusses is usually 1.2 m, although it can be changed up or down.

Helpful advice! When taking the step of the rafter legs, it is necessary to take into account the location of the chimney. It should be centered between the rafters.

When installing each of the trusses, you should check the verticality of the installation using a plumb line. If there are deviations from the vertical, it is necessary to level their position by placing pieces of boards of appropriate thickness under the rafter leg. Next, they arrange the sheathing. If as roofing Ondulin or another will be used soft material, the distance between the elements of the sheathing should be no more than 1 cm.

The roof is insulated using the materials used to insulate the frame. The roof is covered with roofing material. The ridge is protected with a corner made of galvanized sheet or a factory-made element.

Floor construction and finishing

The peculiarity of bathhouse floors is that their design can be different depending on the purpose of the room in which they are installed. In rooms that are in direct contact with water, a pouring floor is installed. Its design consists of a flooring made of boards, between which gaps are left to allow drainage to pass into the ground. There is no need to insulate such floors.

The construction of the floor of a frame bath begins with laying the logs. If the distance between support points is more than 3 m, it is recommended to erect support columns. In places where the lags come into contact with the strip base and posts, waterproofing from several layers of roofing material is used. Boards are mounted on the joists.

Helpful advice! In order to be able to dry the flooded floor, its floorboards are not fixed to the joists.

The boards in the poured floor structure are placed with a gap of 3 to 4 mm. The interval should also be between the flooring line and the bath wall (about 2 cm). If the soil under the building is sandy, you can limit yourself to filling a 25 cm layer of gravel. The distance from the surface of the gravel to the subfloor should be 10-12 cm. If the soil is clayey, it is necessary to build a tray from which water will be directed to the drainage pit.

For recreation rooms, a floor with a “non-leakage” structure is installed. Its installation begins with a subfloor made of two rows of boards. A continuous flooring of pine boards is laid on top. At first they are simply baited. And only when all the interior finishing work is completed and the room is properly dried, the floor boards are finally adjusted and completely fixed.

It should be noted that the floorboards should be located with a slope towards the point where wastewater is collected and discharged into the sewer. At the lowest point wooden flooring make a hole and connect it to the drain siphon. A non-leakage floor requires insulation, which is placed in front of the finishing coating.

Video: do-it-yourself frame baths from foundation to roof

For those who are faced with the construction of a frame bath for the first time, it is very important not only to familiarize themselves with the step-by-step installation instructions, but also to get a visual representation of all stages of construction. On the Internet you can find dozens of training videos on how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. Video materials contain a lot of useful information and can become a kind of guide in the production of work.

By studying the video instructions, you can learn about the installation features and types of foundation for the construction of a bathhouse, as well as the advisability of using one or another type of foundation. Here you can get answers to all your questions regarding piping, frame installation, roofing and equipping the bathhouse with one or another heating equipment.

Watching video tutorials will help you learn useful recommendations regarding the use of insulation material and its installation. After all, the main thing for a bathhouse is heat, which must be retained inside the structure. Professional advice will help you correctly distribute and install insulation depending on the seasonal use of the bathhouse, which will affect the durability and appearance of the structure.

Many videos are devoted to the finishing section of a frame bath. Here are the advantages and disadvantages various materials for decoration. Consultations experienced craftsmen will reveal the features and performance properties of each type of material. Practical advice from those who have built and used their own frame bathhouse will also be useful.

Although construction using frame technology is not particularly complicated, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic recommendations. Some videos contain information about the most common mistakes when building a bathhouse. Reviewing the material will help you avoid them in the future. This will guarantee the rapid construction of a reliable and durable structure.

It often happens that the first building that homeowners erect on their property is a bathhouse. And if the question arises about using new technology, then I definitely want to try it new way construction on its own plot of land. In this case, this is what a novice builder needs. How to make a frame bathhouse with your own hands?

DIY frame bathhouse

The bathhouse is small in size and therefore relatively inexpensive. provides an opportunity to try, touch, and become closely acquainted with the features of constructing frame houses. Frame bath built with your own hands using fairly new technology, which gives homeowners the opportunity to hone this technology construction and after - build your own residential frame house without mistakes.

Step by step we build a frame bathhouse.

Let's talk about how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. We will describe step by step the progress of the work, which will be similar for other frame buildings.

DIY frame bath project

Since a frame bathhouse is a household, utility building and, when the work is first carried out, is most often an experimental one, they are often not ordered for its construction. individual project frame bath, but use a ready-made one. In order to prepare your own drawings of a frame bathhouse with your own hands, you need to be an architect or engineer. And the finished project allows you to build a bathhouse correctly without special education.

Scheme of a 3 by 4 frame bath

As an example, let’s look at a 3x4 frame bathhouse project. It contains 26 pages containing tables, diagrams, drawings, sketches, specifications, lists and descriptions. The project consists of two sections - architectural and constructive, each of them has text and graphic parts.

Architectural part of the frame bath project

• Drawings of external facades with marks of height and width of walls, windows, doors.
• Floor drawings of interior spaces with dimensions.
• Roof plan - with dimensions of its perimeter, overhang, and angle of inclination.
• An explanatory note that provides recommendations for fire safety, water drainage, electricity supply.

The location of the steam room.

Additionally, do-it-yourself 3x4 frame bath finished project, provides for the development of a plan for linking the bathhouse to the area: location on the site, distance to the boundaries of the site, location drain hole and the distance to it.

Structural part of the frame bath project

The structural part is practical guide for the construction of a frame bath.

• Foundation diagram.
• Schemes of floor and ceiling ceilings, rafter system.
• Description of connection methods frame elements and fastenings of wall and roof panels.
• The DIY frame bath project includes utility networks: ventilation, power supply, heating, drainage.
• Specifications with a list of materials, their sizes, characteristics.

A finished frame bath project provides the following advantages:

• Drawings, plans and descriptions comply with construction and fire regulations, which means they ensure reliable and safe operation of the premises.
• The above project allows you, with minimal construction experience, to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands step by step - reliably and correctly.

Capture the location of the premises.

Stages of construction of a bathhouse

Do-it-yourself 3X4 frame bath: step-by-step instructions consist of the following construction operations.

• Design.
• The foundation is often screw piles.
• Assembling a frame house on top of piles and grillage.
• External wall cladding.
• Roof.
• Insulation and mandatory vapor barrier. The durability and comfort of the bath depends on its availability and reliability.
• Doors and windows.
• Interior walls and finishing.

And now we’ll tell you in more detail about each stage of the project’s implementation, how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands: step-by-step instructions.

Foundation and its waterproofing

Most are assembled with your own hands on screw piles. This foundation is optimally suited for a small, lightweight structure and allows the bathhouse to be located directly on the river bank. It also requires less money, so assembling a frame bathhouse with your own hands is cheap.

Foundation for a frame bath.

In another option, for a frame bath it is used concrete foundation with a grillage. When building such a foundation, it is important to ensure its protection from water and moisture. Firstly, the base of the bathhouse is located in the ground and is in contact with ground moisture. Secondly, when using the steam room, the floor gets wet. Considering that a bathhouse is a structure with periodic use, it is important to prevent moisture from penetrating deep into the foundation material.

Protection from water and moisture determines the durability of the foundation. When cooling and freezing, moisture in the pores expands and creates cracks. After several freeze-thaw cycles, the material begins to crumble. Within two to three years, the foundation of the bathhouse may become unusable.

Most a budget option waterproofing - roofing material over wood or concrete. More reliable way– coating of concrete or wooden surface waterproof mastic. The most effective and reliable method is to impregnate the base with a moisture-resistant mixture such as Penetron. However, it is used only for concrete grillage. Wooden beams cannot be treated with this mixture.

House wall frame

A simple frame bathhouse is built with your own hands on the basis of a frame. It acts as a “skeleton” on which the walls of the building will be supported. The supporting “skeleton” of a 3x4 frame bath will consist of:

• Two horizontal rows - lower and upper trim.
• Eight vertical supports installed at the corners of the building and in the middle of its walls.
• Jib for vertical fixation of load-bearing supports located at an angle.

DIY frame bathhouse.

Wooden beams It is also important to protect baths from moisture. To do this, they need to be impregnated with moisture-resistant impregnations. After laying the insulation, the wooden frame will also be protected by a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the inside of the heat-insulating material.

After assembling the frame, to strengthen and strengthen it, the walls are sheathed with external wall panels. This ensures the walls are resistant to lateral shear. What is especially important when building on open place, blown by the winds.

On a note

The assembly of the frame and hanging of the outer panels is carried out as quickly as possible, during a period when there is no rain or other precipitation.

Roof of a frame bath

Roofing material budget sauna choose according to two criteria - weight and price. It should have a low price and low specific gravity. For frame houses, metal profiles or metal tiles are often used. These roofing materials are light, bright, beautiful and durable, with one drawback - they are quite expensive.

Frame bathhouse with roof for barbecue.

The roof of a frame bathhouse can be mounted with your own hands using affordable OSB panels. They are relatively inexpensive, but require protection from atmospheric moisture. The roof of the frame bath is covered with roofing felt. Afterwards, if desired, bitumen can be laid on top of such a roof. Or replace the old roofing material with a new one after a few years.

The second option for constructing an inexpensive roof is not edged boards. They are laid overlapping, ensuring water flows from top to bottom. This is the most inexpensive lumber, which will also require protection from moisture. This type of roof must be painted annually.

On a note

What else to consider: the roof of the building must have sufficient overhang. That is, the distance between the edge of the roofing and the wall should be 600-800 mm.

Insulation and vapor barrier

The pros and cons of a frame bath are determined by the quality of its insulation. The right choice heat-insulating material, method of its installation in the wall, floor, ceiling. A frame bath must retain heat, and the insulation determines its ability to protect it indoors.

If your own bathhouse is still only a dream, then it’s time to leave them and move on to action. In fact, anyone can build a bathhouse in their own yard. The main thing is to know in what sequence and what actions to perform. The article will provide step-by-step instructions that will allow you to do everything yourself.

Drafting

No building is complete without good project. Regarding the bathhouse, you will need to think about the number of rooms. A steam room will be a must for the bath. Its size will depend on the desired number of people who will be in it at the same time. If it is possible to make a steam room in a bathhouse with a size of 3x2, then you can be sure that six people can comfortably fit in it. In addition to the steam room, a relaxation room is needed in the bathhouse. Usually it occupies the largest space in area. In this room in the bathhouse, as a rule, they install necessary furniture for a comfortable pastime.

Another room that is necessary for a bathhouse is a washing room. It can accommodate a shower stall and a toilet. This room does not require a large area. If you separate the bathroom, then the washing room can be an intermediate link between the relaxation room and the steam room in the bathhouse. It is also worth providing a hallway or dressing room in the bathhouse. He will provide air cushion, which will prevent the rapid release of heat.

Step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step instructions describe the entire assembly process future design indicating the nuances and practical advice. Any construction begins with the construction of a foundation.

Foundation

The frame structure is lightweight due to its features. This means that for such a bath there is no point in pouring a slab or strip foundation. An excellent solution would be to use screw piles. They represent metal pipes, at the end of which there is a small drill. Thanks to the drill, the piles can be easily immersed into the ground to the required depth. The length of the piles must be such that its lower part can pass through heaving soils and be fixed below the freezing level of the soil. At the same time, her top part should protrude above the surface at a given distance.

Some craftsmen do not recommend marking for screw piles, which will serve as the foundation for the bathhouse. The reasoning is that it is quite simple to orient the position of the piles for a bathhouse relative to a fence or other structure. If the construction of a bathhouse is carried out in an open area, then markings for piles are indispensable. The photo above shows how this can be done. According to the developed bathhouse project, the dimensions are transferred to the site where construction will take place.

Pegs mark the places where the piles should be screwed in. The distance between the piles should be 1.5-2 meters. Everything will depend on the load applied, i.e. on the total weight of the structure. After marking, one of the corners of the bathhouse is selected in which the first pile will be mounted.

To simplify your installation task, you need to make a pit. The depth of the pit must be no less than the diameter of the pile screw. It will help to start rotating and deepening the screw pile.

The photo above shows that for high-quality installation three people will be needed. Two carry out the twisting using levers, and the third holds the pile in a vertical position. In this case, the use of a magnetic level to track the vertical position is not yet required, since the pile is not firmly fixed in the ground.

After the pile is firmly planted in the ground, you can attach the magnetic level. In the photo above you can see that it is fixed perpendicular to where the tightening levers are located.

Two people continue to tighten the pile, and the third monitors its position by level. Thus, it is necessary to secure all the corner piles of the foundation for the bathhouse. After this, two ropes are stretched between the piles, as shown in the top photographs. They form a shaped channel into which the remaining piles will be mounted according to the markings that were applied. Piles are required not only for the main walls, but also for the partitions. After the piles are installed in place, it is necessary to align them.

To solve this problem, you can use a hydraulic level. You must first set up one of the piles so that it serves as a control. A mark is applied to it, which will be transferred to the rest of the piles. One part of the level is applied to the control point, and the second to the opposite corner pile. Once the water inside the level has stopped fluctuating, you can apply a mark.

To transfer the markings to the remaining piles, there is no need to approach them with a level. It is necessary to stretch the fishing line between the outer piles so that it touches intermediate supports. After this, a mark is made on the fishing line. The supports are trimmed according to the marks. Next, a metal square with a side of 25 cm is welded onto them. It is necessary to hold the lower frame of the building.

Next, the strapping for the bath is performed. For this you will need wooden beam with a size of 15x15 cm. It is laid on prepared sites on stilts for a frame bath. The photo above shows how the individual elements are connected at the corners. It is necessary to make a slot for half the thickness of the beam, and also cut out a part that will be equal to its width. The result is a recess with a size of 15x15 cm. The same procedure is repeated for the second log. After this, they are connected to each other and fastened.

The photo above shows how to proceed with the strapping for the partitions. A similar recess is made, but in the middle of the beam. After this, the second part is placed on top and fixed. The result should look something like the one shown in the photo below.

Waterproofing is laid between the metal platform and the timber. The diagonals must be checked to ensure that the walls of the frame bath are even. If the beam for the foundation of the bathhouse has to be increased, then this is done using the same method as connecting two elements and always on a pile so that there is the required stop.

After assembling the trim, SIP panels are laid, which will act as an insulated subfloor. The panels are screwed to the sauna frame with self-tapping screws; this is done for temporary fixation. The panels sag quite easily under weight, so they need to be reinforced with a beam, as shown in the photo below.

In order for the beam to be well fixed in the SIP panel, it is necessary to apply polyurethane foam. A gap of 5 mm is left between the individual panels, which acts as a thermal seam.

Wall assembly

The next stage in the construction of a frame bath will be the assembly of the walls. For these purposes, you will need an edged board with a size of 15x5 cm. The structure is assembled from it, as shown in the photo below.

Distance between individual vertical posts equal to the width of the insulation that will be used for the bath. When the assembly is completed, the wall frame for the bathhouse is installed. Individual elements are temporarily secured with jibs, as can be seen in the photo below.

The finished design looks similar to the one shown in the photo below.

It is worth noting that the places where window and door openings will be located are additionally reinforced with vertical and horizontal struts.

Roof

An excellent solution for a bathhouse would be a device pitched roof. Its equipment is somewhat cheaper and also simpler than a gable one. In the photo below you can see that rafter system has three points of support.

The rafter legs are located in increments of 60 cm from each other and are fixed to the upper elements of the wall. To achieve the required roof slope, it is necessary to calculate in advance the height of all walls so that an angle is formed between them. The roof slope angle for a bathhouse is determined individually for each project. Much depends on the meteorological conditions in a particular area, as well as the type of flooring chosen. If it is metal tiles, then the minimum slope should be 16 degrees.

In the photo above you can see that the front wall had to be raised a little. To increase its strength, jibs were installed on the sides. Roof overhangs are made at the front and back so that water flows down unhindered. On rafter legs waterproofing, control sheathing and sheathing under the roof deck and the roof deck itself are fixed. A video about the construction of such a bath can be seen below.

Insulation and finishing

Due to the fact that SIP panels are laid on the floor, it does not require insulation. Floor finishing is carried out at the request of the owner. A heated floor can be installed on it and a screed can be poured on top or a laminate can be laid. Walls require a special approach to insulation. First of all, waterproofing is done on the outside of the bathhouse wall so that water does not get on the insulation.

Insulation is installed in the prepared gaps that were left between the racks in the walls of the bathhouse. An excellent option for a bath would be mineral wool. It has a certain vapor permeability, which will facilitate partial air exchange between the bathhouse and the street. The insulation should be inserted with little force so that it is well fixed inside. After the insulation has been installed, vapor barrier of the bathhouse premises is performed. For a steam room in a bathhouse you will need thick foil, as shown in the photo below.

The inside of the bathhouse walls can be trimmed with clapboard, but the outside will look better as a block house.

Installation of both the first and second versions of the bath material is carried out on wooden sheathing. After the cladding, the bathhouse is arranged. A stove is installed in the steam room, and interior doors are installed. If the bathhouse will be used all year round, then you should think about an autonomous heating system. Additionally, you can build a small terrace where you can spend time with friends.

Summary

As you can see, building a frame bath has its own difficulties. Some stages of constructing a frame bath cannot be completed without the help of a partner. An important stage construction is the supply of various communications. These include water, sewer and electricity. All wires inside a frame bath must be double-braided and laid with non-flammable corrugation. Moisture-resistant lamps are used for the steam room in the bathhouse. To keep electricity consumption in the bathhouse to a minimum, you can consider using LED lamps. As windows for a bathhouse, you can use metal-plastic frames with a wood finish. They will cost a little more, but will look quite harmonious.

Every owner of a suburban property knows about the benefits and pleasure that bath procedures bring. That is why many strive to have this building for their own use. But not everyone has the opportunity, time and finances to build this structure from brick or rounded logs. The solution would be to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. If you approach the issues of insulation and waterproofing correctly, it will serve for a very long time.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Drawing up a construction project and choosing materials

Any construction begins with planning and procurement of materials. To start shopping, you need to develop a plan.

To draw up a drawing you need:

• decide on a place;
• study the soil in this place, as it affects the choice of foundation;
• determine for yourself which design will be optimal for you.

Include standard bath rooms in your project: dressing room, vestibule, shower and steam room. The location of the stove should also be indicated on the schematic diagram of the bathhouse.

Making out project documentation, don't miss a single detail. Indicate absolutely everything - from the type of ventilation and features of the chimney to the materials used for finishing the interior, exterior and roofing.

At the design stage, decide on the dimensions of each room and indicate them on the diagram. Take into account how many people will be in the steam room at the same time. It should not be too cramped, but also too large bathhouse It will be difficult to warm up.

The optimal steam room is considered to have dimensions of 2400x2000 mm with a ceiling height of 2200 mm.

Often, lovers of steam baths create projects with additional rooms: a relaxation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, etc. A bathroom in the bathhouse will bring additional convenience during bathing procedures.

Video: how to draw up a drawing of a frame bathhouse for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself foundation construction technology

For a frame bath, you can use any type of foundation.

Pile

Very easy to build and reliable. Used for small and lightweight structures. It gained its popularity due to its low cost and rapid construction. When choosing foundations important parameters are the depth of soil freezing and occurrence groundwater. Piles should be placed deeper than this level. In addition, for greater reliability, reduce the distance between the support points as much as possible. Be prepared to dig deep.

There are certain subtleties of using a pile foundation:

1. This type of foundation is best suited for unstable soil (sand, peat). In this case, the supports are buried in the soil to the depth where there is solid, stable support. This way the weight of the structure will rest on good soil.
2. Where the soil freezes below 1500 cm, piles are an excellent foundation option.
3. If the soil surface is uneven and very lumpy, then the structure is columnar base will also be the only way out. In this case, you will not have to perform a large number of site leveling work.
4. Another type of soil ideal for using a pile foundation is dense. In order to dig a trench or pit in it, you will have to put in a lot of effort. And drilling holes for piles is much easier.

Table: types of piles

Photo gallery: types of piles

Bored piles are most often used in the construction of bathhouses Screw metal piles can be installed independently
Driven reinforced concrete piles are not suitable for bathhouses

Location and dimensions of piles

The key places for the location of piles are the corners of the building, places where outer wall connects to the wall and, of course, it is necessary to install intermediate pillars along the length of the walls. The distance between the supports must be at least 2 m so that the load-bearing capacity of the base is not impaired.

You should not make pillars with a diameter of less than 20 cm. The larger this parameter, the better they will be load-bearing capacity foundation.

To understand how long the pillars are needed, you need to know:

• to what depth does the soil freeze;
• at what depth does reliable non-floating soil begin?

The level of freezing for a certain region is practically unchanged. But to understand the condition of the soil, test drilling will come to the rescue, which will show everything.

Step-by-step instructions for constructing brick piles

Rubble stone or bricks are also often used to create a foundation. They are fixed to each other concrete mortar. Such pillars should be placed using the same technology as piles. This also applies to the distances between them. Corner posts are made square (380x380 mm), and intermediate posts are made rectangular (380x250 mm). They should rise 300–400 mm above the soil and go 250–300 mm deep.

All work on the construction of the foundation takes place in several stages:

This is the most common base option. And not only for the construction of a bathhouse. It gained its popularity due to its ease of construction. Ideal for non-flowing, stationary soils with deep groundwater.

To build a bathhouse, it does not need to be deepened too much, especially if the soil does not freeze very much.

If the sauna stove requires a separate foundation, then it is better to start building it together with the foundation for the entire building.

Follow the steps in the following sequence:

Fill in concrete mixture from a height of 500 mm or less. This way the concrete will not delaminate.

Formation of the floor structure and its thermal insulation

You can increase the service life of your bath if you follow detailed instructions for floor installation. This will avoid heat leaks and rotting of floorboards, as well as other unpleasant consequences.

To install the bath, follow the following instructions:

The shower floor is made a little differently:

1. Do separate foundation for the washing room. This is a guarantee that the floor will always be warm and dry quickly.
2. Remove a layer of soil (0.5 m), make a sand-crushed stone cushion 10 cm thick in this pit.
3. Make floor joists from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. They can be laid on a foundation and filled with concrete mortar, which will keep them from moving.
4. Lay edged material on the pipes round board 40–50 mm thick. Leave gaps between them for rubber gaskets of approximately 6–7 mm. They are attached to the boards with nails.
5. Press down the floor with baseboards.

Video: how to make a drain in a bath floor

How to calculate and build walls

Now that the base has hardened and the floor is done, you can begin to build the skeleton of the walls of the bathhouse. To begin this work, the wood must be thoroughly dried. It is not recommended to use birch for these purposes, as it is susceptible to rapid rotting.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of walls, it is recommended to carry out advance paynemt material. At the same time, remember that you need to purchase it with a reserve. The construction of walls takes place in the following order:

1. Start with the bottom trim. To install it, purchase strong beams with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. Connect them at the corners in a quarter, secure them well with nails. To prevent the bottom trim and attached corner posts from moving, place them on steel pins 20 mm thick, which need to be embedded in concrete.
2. The same section of timber is used to create the top trim.
3. For greater rigidity of the frame, install eight braces in the corners of the bathhouse.
4. Along the perimeter of the walls, place intermediate racks made of the same timber that was used to make the frames.

To avoid working at height, experts recommend constructing and fastening the frame of the walls on the ground, and then simply lifting them, inserting them into place and securing them. It's much more convenient and faster.

How to install a rafter system

To construct the roof frame, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 150x50 mm. They are placed on the edge and fastened to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 100–120 mm. In a vertical position, fix them with “kerchiefs” and connect them with a skate on top.

About 400 mm of beams must be left outside.

250 mm boards are suitable for roof sheathing. Fix them in the direction from the ridge down.

The rafters are secured with special metal plates.

For ease of installation, assemble the entire “skeleton” of the roof on the ground, and then install it in its place, as is the case with the walls.

Correct and practical insulation: detailed instructions

The frame structure is very light, so the insulation must also be appropriate to avoid deformation of the walls.

When choosing insulation for a bath, you must adhere to several rules:

• the material must have good thermal insulation abilities;
• its properties should not disappear when exposed to high temperature and humidity;
• there should be no release of toxic substances;
• it must be fireproof.

Table: which insulation to choose

Name	Description
	Despite the fact that mineral wool is not heavy, it is still not recommended to use it, since when combined with facing materials it can get quite heavy. Mineral wool is formed by weaves of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or from metallurgical waste. When these fibers intertwine, there are empty air spaces between them. It is thanks to this that mineral wool has good thermal insulation properties. The material is characterized by a high melting point of inorganic substances, so it can be used in a bath. High humidity also does not harm mineral wool.
	Natural material. It is distinguished by its environmental friendliness. Has high heat-insulating properties. The thickness of the slabs is 150 mm. This convenient size for insulation of frame structures, including baths.
Sawdust-gypsum composition	This type of insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of sawdust, which is thoroughly dried beforehand, and 1 part of gypsum or cement mortar. Good price-quality ratio. You can do it yourself.
	It's cheap and lightweight materials, it is easy to install and customize right size, has excellent thermal insulation properties and is impervious to moisture. However, this material does not tolerate high temperatures well, so it is better for them to insulate places away from the stove.

Photo gallery: types of thermal insulation material

Expanded polystyrene cannot be used near the stove. You can make the sawdust-gypsum mixture yourself Reed slabs are a natural insulation material Plates mineral wool do not change their properties under the influence of high temperature and humidity

Stages of bath insulation

It is worth insulating the walls of the bathhouse even at the stage of wall construction. Thermal insulation material is laid in the spaces between the load-bearing parts of the building frame. Waterproofing is laid on top of it. Thus, a “pie” is obtained, in the center of which there is insulation, waterproofing on the outside, and cladding on both sides.

Experts advise laying insulation in two layers, one of which comes in the form of slabs, and the second in a roll. This way, all unnecessary cracks are removed, and the bathhouse will be really well insulated. You should pay attention to the fact that these materials have an internal and external side.

Insulation options around the stove

This is the place where the temperature reaches its highest point. Therefore, the walls here should be additionally protected from fire. Some people use asbestos boards for this. Others believe that this material is not very useful for human body and it is recommended to use basalt or isolon. But all types of materials cope well with exposure to high temperatures and protect the walls of the bathhouse from unpleasant consequences.

Insulation of floor and ceiling

This work can be done in several steps:

1. Compact the soil thoroughly. Pour a concrete base screed onto it.
2. Lay a layer of waterproofing material (roofing felt or dense polyethylene).
3. Install thermal insulation.
4. Cover again with a layer of waterproofing.
5. Fill in upper layer concrete screed.

This way you will make a subfloor. It can be additionally treated with waterproofing solutions after complete hardening. This will additionally protect the floor from moisture entering through microcracks in the concrete and extend its service life.

The ceiling is insulated using the same technology as the walls:

Waterproofing

In addition to the fact that the walls need to be insulated, they also need to be protected from moisture. There are two reasons for this:

1. When exposed to moisture, any insulation begins to lose its thermal insulation qualities to varying degrees. But this is not very good for a bathhouse.
2. Thermal insulation materials take a long time to dry after moisture gets on them. This can cause mold and rot, which can spread to the frame.

As vapor barrier material can be used:

• aluminum foil (it not only protects against moisture, but also reflects heat);
• glassine, which is environmentally friendly, is inexpensive;
• polyethylene.

Roofing felt can be used as waterproofing. But it is not recommended for finishing a bath, because under the influence of high temperatures it begins to smell unpleasant.

The vapor barrier material must be laid with an overlap, and the joints must be taped with metallized tape.

Video: what mistakes can be made when laying vapor barrier

External and internal finishing of a summer or winter bath

The frame should not only serve you for a long time, but also be beautiful in appearance.

The interior lining must not only be beautiful, but also withstand high temperatures and humidity. Coniferous wood lining will cope with this task perfectly. Just don't use it in a steam room as it may release resin. Larch lining is more suitable here.

Linden is an excellent option for finishing the ceiling and making shelves and sun loungers.

Video: how much and what to spend money on when building a bathhouse

What could be more pleasant than after completing work at your summer cottage, take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your soul and body? Of course, a luxurious bathhouse with a swimming pool in the country is an unaffordable luxury for many, so it’s worth taking a closer look at the projects of small buildings and building the one you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of money and getting maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bathhouse can be built using frame technology, laid out from foam/gas/cinder blocks, bricks, or a frame made of logs or timber. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Material	Make/model/type/grade	Size/section, mm	Price in rubles
	M150	250*120*65	RUB 16.90 per piece (240 pieces on a pallet)
	First grade	100*100*6000	Price per 1 m3 from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
	First grade	150*150*6000	5500-6900 rub. for 1 cubic meter.
	First grade	40*100*6000	7500 rub. for 1 m3
	2.3 grade	40*150*6000	5500 rub. for 1 m3
	-	9*1250*2500	548
	-	12*1250*2500	802
	-	60*250*50	40 rub. per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy bath project

Having looked at the prices for materials, you will notice that it is more profitable to build a bathhouse from blocks or Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used or low-grade (for example, instead of an edged board, you can use an unedged one, adding color country bathhouse). More accurate data on material consumption can be obtained after drawing up a project and estimate.

Before starting construction, it is extremely important to think through the design of the bathhouse, calculate the amount of materials, note all dimensions and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furniture in them.

Installation of a shelf in a steam room Selecting a bath size

The main room in any, even the smallest bathhouse is the steam room. There must be two or three floors of shelves and a heater. Even if the dacha plot is small, and the bathhouse is planned to be very modest, the steam room cannot be made with an area of ​​3-4 square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (visitors should be comfortable steaming with brooms, sitting and lying on shelves in full height). Such standards are determined by safety considerations (in a very cramped steam room it is easy to get burned on a hot stove or scald your skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is located entirely in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing usable area rooms by another 1-2 meters, so that it is convenient to store and add firewood to the firebox. Directly in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 1x1 m must be laid, which is also noted on the plan diagram of the future bathhouse.

The bathhouse will certainly provide water procedures Accordingly, you should think about a small shower located in a separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewer drains and interior partitions.

The last important room of the bathhouse is the dressing room or dressing room. There should be benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, and possibly a small table. It is also possible and preferable to have the heater located in the steam room, and the loading door opens into the dressing room, which allows you to save on heating.

In an economy bath you can do without:

• plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and bring water in buckets manually;
• separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken outside or into a country house if the bathhouse in the country house will be used only in the warm season.

But you won’t be able to do without electricity and sewerage, so it is advisable to order or build a septic tank/cesspool/drainage pit, as well as extend a power line to the site where the bathhouse is being built, because steaming by candlelight is very inconvenient.

Be sure to indicate on the plan diagram:

• dimensions of the building and each room separately;
• ceiling height and overall height of the bath;
• furnace location;
• the sides into which the doors will open, including the firebox;
• location of windows (in the steam room the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
• location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (only products with a moisture protection level higher than IP54 are used).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Designing a bathhouse

Video - Bathhouse project. Compilation

Construction of a small frame economy bathhouse at the dacha

Let's start with the base of the bathhouse - the foundation. Since the bathhouse will be small and relatively light, there will be no need to pour a monolithic slab or make a buried reinforced tape. Enough for a one-story bathhouse columnar foundation from blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them.

Stage 1. Marking

This stage is required for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bathhouse will be located.

Take 4 pegs and a plumb line. We drive the first stake into the soil strictly vertically, that is, we mark the first corner of the house. From this point we set aside the length of one of the walls and drive in a second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

We place the third and fourth stakes in the same way. We check the equality of the marking diagonals and, if necessary, adjust the stakes and cord.

We also use a cord to mark the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the cast-off. We level the bottom of the resulting base horizontally and compact it.

Video - Marking the foundation

Stage 2. Foundation

Let's consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20*20*40 cm. Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per 1 piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles per piece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is approximately half a meter. The holes should be located in the corners of the house, under load-bearing walls and interior partitions.

We tamp the bottom of each hole, fill it with a layer of sand and crushed stone (each layer up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Fill the crushed stone with liquid cement laitance. We stick one steel rod strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the rod, 2 pieces at a time. in every row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the soil. We check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, we compensate for unevenness with a layer of cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Economy bath frame

For the frame, you can use timber 100*100 cm or 150*150 cm. There is no need to skimp on load-bearing elements. It is also advisable to impregnate the wood with a fire-retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 beams.

Connecting corners using the “claw” or “half-tree” method.

Connecting the beams of the lower trim

We cut threads on the reinforcing bars protruding from the corner posts (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut off). We drill holes at the ends of the beams for these pins. We cut out the ends of the beams according to the diagram shown.

We assemble the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten with self-tapping screws horizontal jumpers from a 50x50 mm bar. Corner posts We strengthen it with jibs made of 50x100 mm boards.

All that remains to be done top harness. To do this, we use a 50 mm thick board, which we screw to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beams

Stage 4. Gender

Let's look at an example of arranging a leak-proof floor in a bathhouse. In order not to waste time cutting lumber, we take fastening perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble the floor joists. We place boards 50x100 cm between the beams of the lower frame on the edge, maintaining a distance between the logs of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor from the board in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

The floor joists can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden boards from which the joists are made. A hole must be provided in the subfloor for installing a drain from a washing room or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Izospan or other vapor barrier film under the wooden subfloor.

To insulate the floor, we again attach logs on top of the subfloor, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire “pie” with waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles for a sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene foam as insulation, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making the roof, we assemble the top floor (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor joists.

roof for frame economy It is better to make a gable bathhouse. It will make the bathhouse more attractive in appearance, and the space under the roof will be easily converted into sleeping area or a warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, on single-slope structure Fewer materials will be needed.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor joists

Table. Types of roofs, diagrams

Roof type illustration	Advantages	Description
Flat or single slope	Saving of materials, ease of assembly, ability to use the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide it is permissible to organize flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and inclined rafters. The ceiling is made from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. Laying step from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous, gap-free sheathing from edged boards or OSB is assembled, then a sheathing for insulation is installed - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Several layers of roofing material or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be made from corrugated sheets, antiseptic-treated boards, etc.
Gable. Suitable for baths with an area >12 sq.m.	Possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for overnight accommodation. The roof is stable and durable	The roof angle is selected from 30 to 45 degrees depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the top trim and the Mauerlat must be made of timber. Rafter trusses are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the ribs (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are cut according to a template and assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The outer trusses on the gables are attached first, followed by the remaining rafters at intervals of up to one and a half meters. A sheathing of slats or boards is placed on top of the rafters, a vapor barrier is stretched, after which the roofing material, for example, corrugated sheets, is secured.

Video – Roof construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior decoration

Table. Short description stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Polystyrene foam will provide the walls of the bathhouse with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation we use polyurethane foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam plastic according to the distance between the frame posts, insert foam plastic between them, and foam the cracks. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger in size than the existing openings to avoid gaps.
		We use 2x5 cm slats. We fasten them horizontally. Fixation is carried out using wood screws. We take the distance between the slats equal to the width of the insulation.
		We lay mineral wool slabs between the lathing slats. We stretch a polypropylene cord over the mats and secure it with small nails or a stapler.
		WITH outside The bathhouse can be covered with OSB-3 sheets, which can then be plastered or painted. Finishing would also be an acceptable option. unedged board or siding.
		WITH outside baths under the layer of finishing material we attach an overlapping windproof film (you can use glassine). From the inside, we stretch a foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns on the walls and ceiling. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallized tape.
Internal lining		Traditional material for interior decoration- lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in a steam room. It is permissible to sheathe the walls in the dressing room PVC panels or moisture-resistant plasterboard, then paint.
External skin		As outer skin Many interesting materials are used, for example, shingles or shingles. These are thin wooden planks that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (top to bottom). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Stage 7. Ventilation

An economy bathhouse is probably a compact room, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The hole for air flow is traditionally installed near the heater, closer to the floor, and the installation of the ventilation valve is carried out simultaneously with insulation and finishing of the walls. The air flow from the supply ventilation duct must reach a heating element ovens. It is especially important to arrange effective ventilation, if the firebox door does not open into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

Exhaust vent should be closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. Air exhaust is organized according to ventilation pipe on the roof, the head of the pipe is covered with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through a small window located at a height of 185 cm above the floor level. Ventilation will occur when open window and room doors.

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Stage 8. Equipping the bathhouse

Having assembled a bathhouse with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and an external water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation and close it steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

It is not necessary to calculate the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal stove; a floor structure made of 150x50 mm joists in increments of 45-50 cm and a 5 cm thick floorboard will perfectly withstand a heater.

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse is laid either to finishing walls (hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed that are strictly moisture-proof, class higher than IP 54. Installation of a separate electrical panel and protection of all cables from moisture is required.

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

A very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel sauna is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, internally divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The sauna is mobile, takes up little space, is economical and economical (very little fuel is needed to warm up a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel baths cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bathhouse yourself, it takes half as much money and not a lot of effort and time.

Assembly and disassembly of the bathhouse is possible due to the boards used 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a tongue-and-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The structure is secured with metal hoops. Additionally, the bathhouse can be equipped with a porch, roof, and canopy.

The water in the barrel bath is drained through holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bathhouse at your dacha, you should remove the layer of soil, fill it with crushed stone, compact it, and install the bathhouse itself on a pair of stable, massive concrete blocks. The rules for installing a stove and laying electrical wiring are standard for any type of wooden bathhouse, including economy class.