Petunia is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Solanaceae genus., growing in the tropical zone. Homeland of petunia Latin America. This plant is sometimes found in North America.

ATTENTION: Modern gardeners grow petunia as an ornamental annual in gardens, on balconies and terraces. Petunia goes well with other ornamental plants and looks harmonious in various compositions. But the main thing is its unpretentiousness.

An important condition for the successful growth of petunia in a pot is its size.. Petunia loves space. So, for one bush or terry individual, at least 3 liters of substrate are required. Based on this, you can easily calculate how big a pot your pets will need.

As for cascade and ampel varieties, the requirements for displacement are even greater. One ampelous or cascading petunia requires at least 5 liters of soil.

If these conditions are violated, the plants will be cramped, they may get sick and will be weak. In this case, flowering may never occur (about what to do if petunia does not bloom, see).

The soil for petunia is prepared in a certain way:

• Sod land.
• Leaf soil.
• Peat.
• Sand.

Sometimes perlite is added for looseness.

When preparing the ground, you need to remember the following:

1. It shouldn't be too wet. Petunia does not like waterlogging, since with excess moisture the roots stop functioning properly.
2. Petunia is a light-loving and heat-loving plant. The pot should be placed on the sunny side. This means that your pet will need adequate hydration. But you should avoid excess moisture.
3. The soil must be loose. That is why the soil has the composition as described above. If the need arises, the substrate in the pot should be loosened.

We wrote in more detail about growing petunia.

Where should the pot be?

Since petunia loves light, the pot should be positioned so that the plant receives enough sunlight. At the same time, this unpretentious beauty will require regular watering, as well as good drainage (the soil must be ventilated). Since constant exposure to the sun, wet soil, and hard ground can lead to diseases of the root system.

Petunia should not be placed under bushes, trees, canopies, or in gazebos. Remember, petunia loves direct sunlight and moderate moisture.!

If desired, petunia can be fed with complex mineral fertilizers. Then it will become more lush, juicy, and beautiful. The flowers will be larger, and will last longer and more abundantly.

IMPORTANT: As for organic fertilizers, you need to be more careful. Fresh manure is strictly unacceptable. Fertilizers are applied twice a month according to the usual scheme. When applying fertilizer, the soil must be moist to avoid damage to the roots.

More information on how to water petunia can be found in, and you will learn more nuances about the rules of watering and feeding the plant for abundant flowering.

Trimming and pinching

ATTENTION: If the air temperature is quite cool up to +20 degrees, watering should be reduced to prevent the roots from rotting!

Possible problems and illnesses

The main diseases to which petunia can be exposed, their symptoms and prevention:

• Chlorosis. It manifests itself in yellowing and falling leaves, caused by iron deficiency in the soil. Prevention and treatment include spraying with iron chylate or the drug “Ferovit”, as well as fertilizing with complex fertilizers.
• Powdery mildew. It is characterized by a grayish-white coating on inside leaf. Treatment – ​​treatment with a fungicide, soil aeration, pruning of affected leaves.
• Blackleg. It manifests itself in the fact that the stem darkens and rots in the root part. Treatment is the application of the drugs “Trichodermin”, “Fitosporin”.
• Gray rot. Symptoms are the appearance of gray-brown spots on the leaves. A little later, the leaves begin to darken and rot. Treatment is the removal of affected areas of the plant, a slight increase in the dose of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, the use of biological products: “Integral”, “Skor”, “Maxim”.

Conclusion

Learn simple petunia care skills and enjoy beautiful flowers for up to 7 months of the year. Even basic knowledge of floriculture is enough for this. The only thing you should study is the peculiarities of growing petunias and its needs.

In our country, petunia is grown as an annual ornamental plant. While this representative of the nightshade family is a perennial. But due to the harsh climate in most of our Fatherland, no one thinks about preserving petunias for the winter. This is a troublesome and unpopular matter among Russian flower growers. Meanwhile, breeders have long developed hybrid varieties of petunias that can bloom profusely several times a year.

Description of petunias flowers

The flower came to Europe from South America. In their homeland, Brazil and Paraguay, petunias grow up to a meter in height. Petunias used in cultivated floriculture are plants that have the shape of a small bush.

Its height depends on the type and variety. Low-growing petunias grow up to 20-30 cm, larger ones form a bush up to 60 cm. Petunias also differ in the location of the stem:

• erect;
• creeping.

Breeders are constantly expanding the range of these many-sided decorations for any garden or flower bed. Most often, petunia is divided into two large groups:

1. Bush.
2. Ampelous petunias.

The latter type of variety is well suited for planting in hanging pots, because due to its flexible short shoots and large quantity small flowers, a bright “ball” is formed, noticeable from afar.

Based on flower size, petunias are divided into large-flowered and multi-flowered. The first group is distinguished by flowers larger than 10 cm. They decorate strong branches with single funnels. These petunias look very elegant.

Plants of the second group have much smaller flowers, a little larger than a five-ruble coin, but there are a lot of them. The bushes look elegant and even fun.

Petunia is extremely popular among flower growers around the world for its variety of colors, long and abundant flowering with proper care. Many people try to grow petunia seedlings with my own hands at home.

How and at what time to start this important task? How to grow petunia seedlings at home? At the first stage, it is necessary to purchase high-quality seed material.

Rules for growing petunias from seeds

Sowing is carried out at the end of February, beginning of March. Although you can start growing seedlings at a later date, in this case you run the risk of not seeing flowering.

Keep in mind that it will be at least 10 weeks before this beauty will delight you with her colorful outfits. Petunia produces very small seeds, smaller than a poppy seed.

However, you can see them on the shelves of flower shops granular form. They are much larger and more expensive than regular ones. The whole trick is in the special nutritional and protective shell surrounding the grain of the plant.

Sometimes granules are sold individually. Define appearance seeds in packaging is impossible, because they are sold in opaque bags. All you have to do is trust the information on the packaging. Study it carefully. The label must indicate:

• Seed producer.
• Best before date.
• Variety name.
• Flowering time.
• The height of the bush in adulthood.

Keep in mind that seeds in paper packaging remain viable for up to a year. Packaging ensures longer shelf life made of foil or polyethylene- up to two years. How to grow petunia from seeds?

How to choose containers for seedlings

For a homemade “greenhouse” in which seeds will germinate and young seedlings will gather their first leaves, containers for cookies, biscuits, and ice cream will do. Can be purchased plastic containers at a hardware store.

Budget and convenient option- use an empty five-liter water bottle. Using a sharp knife, make a cut along the long side with three sides and slightly bend the plastic upward, you get a “greenhouse” with a lid, light and convenient.

Whatever you choose to grow petunias from seeds at home, do not forget to make a hole in the bottom of the container using a heated nail. drainage holes. Then the water will not stagnate in the soil and the roots will not be affected by rot.

Soil preparation

Can buy ready mixture in a flower shop. Such compositions are produced based on peat. There are even special soils for petunias. High-quality substrate is industrially disinfected from pests.

But you can prepare the necessary soil composition yourself if you have the necessary ingredients, time and desire for this.

Take in equal proportions (2 parts each):

• peat;
• garden land;
• humus;
• add 1 part of sand to this set.

Mix everything, the necessary nutritional base for seed germination is ready. Place a layer of expanded clay or small river pebbles at the bottom of the container. Place soil on top of this drainage pad, with a layer thickness of about 3-5 cm.

Some gardeners advise adding potassium permanganate crystals to the water to create a solution rich in color. In this case, hang the container with soil over a basin where the water will drain. After the soil has cooled after disinfection, moisturize it well using a sprayer and start sowing.

Sowing petunia seeds

Petunia is a plant that loves light and warmth. For successful germination (assuming you are lucky with the source material), these conditions must be created. Therefore the seeds are only lay it out on the surface moistened soil, but do not cover it with soil.

To make the operation easier, moisten a match or toothpick with water and pick up each seed with it. The intervals between them should be the same, at least 10-15 cm.

After you finish, press the seeds to the ground, to improve grip. Close the homemade greenhouse with a lid, glass, plastic film and place it in a warm place, the simplest one is near a room radiator.

Additional lighting is not required at this stage, but warmth for the appearance of sprouts is vital. Petunia seeds must germinate at a temperature of +25 degrees.

Once a day, open the lid of the container for ventilation. Shoots will appear on the third or fourth day. However, if the seeds are expired, they will take longer to germinate, about ten days.

Caring for seedlings: lighting and watering

To obtain healthy and strong seedlings at home, consider some features of the development of petunias. If the sprouts do not have enough light, they will reach for the sun and turn out tall, but weak.

Therefore, after the seeds germinate, move the boxes away from the radiator, but closer to the window. At this stage, the main role is played by the second factor - light. Without relying on window lighting, resort to additional lighting.

For these purposes they use fluorescent lamps or lamps for seedlings. Turn on additional lighting as soon as the seeds hatch. The lamps must burn over the seedlings for at least 12 hours. In the future, this will facilitate the formation of flower buds more quickly. The temperature in the place where you have boxes with sprouts should be +18−20 degrees.

It is extremely important at this stage, when the seedlings are fragile and can easily die, carry out proper watering. Experienced gardeners advise doing this in the evening, when more intensive plant growth occurs.

There must be water soft, chlorine-free and warm. To do this, let the tap water sit for at least a day on a windowsill or other warm place. Before watering, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into it.

From the very first day the sprouts appear, ventilate the greenhouse", sliding the lid. Start with two to three minutes, increasing the aeration time from time to time. This simple method will help maintain humidity in the right amount and will protect the seedlings from a disease called “black leg”.

Diving - how to do it correctly

There comes a time when the seedlings become cramped in the box and each sprout already requires separate space. For this purpose, a transplant is performed. So that you don’t get confused, let’s figure out what kind of leaves are on plants.

When the seed germinates, it produces two cotyledons. They have elongated shape and much larger than the leaves that appear later. The cotyledons are a kind of bottle of milk from which the sprout feeds. But now he and his brothers in the box have grown up, and like kids in kindergarten, began to push and interfere with each other.

So it's time to dive. This operation includes transplanting and pinching the root. Each sprout is placed in a separate transparent glass. We deepen the sprout in the soil to the cotyledon leaves.

While the plants are very fragile, the root system has not formed and consists of only one hair-thick root. To avoid damage, take the sprout along with a lump of earth and placed in a new place of residence. The soil is sterilized as before sowing seeds - with boiling water or by calcining it in the oven.

After the first transplant of petunia seedlings, if you did everything correctly, the plant begins to develop more actively, increasing root system. About a month and a half after sowing, will need a second transplant, into larger pots. Here the petunia is left until it is planted in open ground in the garden or outdoor planter.

Strictly speaking, the picking procedure also includes shortening the root. This is done so that lateral roots begin to develop and the entire system becomes more powerful and branched. Then the plant will receive more nutrients from the soil.

But in Lately flower growers moved away from this practice, considering it too risky. Some experts in growing seedlings at home do not do a second transplant.

They choose a container for diving with a reserve, “for growth.” Explaining this by saying that there is no point in injuring the plants again. You can choose the best method based on your own experience.

Temperature and feeding

Having received a separate living space after the dive, the seedlings begin to grow vigorously. Now, for their own benefit, begin to accustom young petunias to low temperatures, up to +10°. Florists use the term “hardening” in this case.

Cups with seedlings taken out onto a glassed-in balcony or open a window in the room. Start with 15 minutes, gradually increasing the time.

After a couple of weeks of such repetitions and provided that the air temperature outside does not drop below normal, the seedlings can be left in a cool place until they are transplanted to a permanent place.

It is impossible to grow good seedlings without care, and also timely and regular feeding. Start applying fertilizer two weeks after the seedlings are first transplanted. In the future, do this for adult plants, once every two weeks.

Specialized stores offer flower growers complex fertilizers containing a lot of potassium. Liquid concentrated nutritional mixtures, which must be diluted with water at home, are also good.

After the second transplant and in the future, do not forget about loosening the soil. The roots need oxygen. Petunias will respond to such care with prolonged flowering until late autumn.

Pinching seedlings

Looking at a bright, dense “ball” of multi-colored petunias makes your heart happy. How to achieve perfect shape at home? The secret is simple. It's all about pinching the top of the plant.

Start this procedure as soon as four or five leaves appear on the sprout, not counting the two that grow from the hatched seed (cotyledons). It turns out that you will do the first pinching when the petunia has seven leaves.

By limiting upward growth, you will force side shoots to develop. This is how it will be formed round shape bush. But keep in mind that pinching delays the onset of flowering. Therefore, leave the plant alone a couple of weeks before.

Growing seedlings in peat tablets

In addition to the method of growing seedlings described above, there is another, more time-saving method. Industry produces peat tablets, which are perfect for obtaining strong seedlings at home.

They are placed in a deep plastic bowl and fill with water. Within 10 minutes, swelling, the tablets increase in volume several times. Drain excess water and use a match or toothpick to make a small indentation in the upper part of the peat column.

Place a petunia seed there. Sowing is completed. In the future, care for the seedlings as described above. The convenience is that in the case of peat tablets no dive required.

The grown seedlings are planted immediately in open ground, along with the tablet. In the ground it will disintegrate without your intervention. It’s also good that peat gives necessary nutritional supplements developing petunia roots.

From everything described above, we can conclude that even a beginner can grow petunia seedlings at home.

Petunias are indispensable inhabitants of flower beds, flower beds, borders, vases, balconies and windows. They give bright fragrant cascades of flowers of all shades of the rainbow from the beginning of summer until frost; sometimes the flowers completely cover the foliage and shoots.

Ballet Queen2013

Petunia or petunia, Latin - Petunia from French. petun - tobacco. A genus of herbaceous or semi-shrub plants of the Solanaceae family, with a height of 10 cm to 1 meter. Perennials, used in culture as annuals. Originates from tropical regions of South America, mainly Brazil, in natural conditions grows in Paraguay, Bolivia, Argentina and Uruguay. One species of petunia, Petunia parviflora, is found in North America.

Petunia stems are erect or creeping, densely branched. The leaves are arranged in alternate order or opposite (upper), soft, whole. The stems and leaves are covered with simple and glandular hairs. The flowers are white, purple or reddish, solitary, terminal or axillary, on short peduncles, simple or double, regular or slightly irregular. The fruit is a bivalve capsule with very small seeds.

Conditions for petunia

Lighting: Petunia is photophilous and thermophilic. Grows well in open sunny places. Large-flowered petunias are more thermophilic than small-flowered petunias; in damp, cold weather they stop blooming.

Watering: Drought-resistant, however, in the absence of moisture for a long time, it requires watering. Tolerates strong soil moisture, but suffers from stagnant water.

The soil: Petunia prefers loamy or sandy loam soils, but can grow on any sufficiently fertile soil. It responds well to the addition of humus or compost to the soil, but not fresh manure, as it contributes to the damage of plants by fungal diseases. When preparing soil for petunia in areas with acidic soils (pH less than 5.5), it is necessary to add lime. When digging the soil in spring, complex fertilizer is added to it.

Top dressing: 1 time every 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers in spring and summer.

Growing petunia

Planting petunia seeds

Petunia is propagated mainly by seeds. At home, growing petunia seedlings is complicated by a lack of light, so for sowing you need to take a large supply of seeds. The sooner you sow the seeds, the sooner the plants will bloom. If it is possible to give the seedlings light, then you can sow as early as February. Under normal conditions, it is optimal to sow in the second half of March. Another challenge associated with the size of petunia seeds is the soil they will be placed in and maintaining it optimal humidity. Such seeds require loose, light and nutritious soil. Upper layer It is advisable to sift about 1 cm thick so that the seeds lie evenly on the soil.

Petunia seeds mixed with dry sand are poured onto well-watered soil a day before sowing. Then they are sprayed, covered with glass and left at a temperature of 20 - 23 ° C. On days 5 - 7, tiny shoots will appear that require special attention. Now they need to be sprayed daily and turned towards the light at least twice a day (morning and evening). At this moment, the seedlings need high humidity, but excess moisture in the soil causes their death from the “black leg”. When the petunia seedlings grow and the first leaf appears, the glass can be removed. If the seedlings begin to die, they need to be sprinkled with dry sand, reduce watering and pick them up faster. In April, petunia seedlings are transferred to greenhouses. Planting in the ground in a permanent place is carried out after completion spring frosts. Plant transplantation is tolerated well.

Flowering of small-flowered petunia varieties occurs 70-75 days after sowing, large-flowered varieties bloom 10-15 days later.

Petunia propagation by cuttings

Varieties with double flowers, when propagated by seeds, produce only 40-50% double plants, so they are more common propagated by cuttings, cut from queen cells, which are kept in winter in light greenhouses at a temperature of 10-12 ° C, with moderate humidity and intensive ventilation. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into 9 cm pots.

Mary Stuart

Planting petunia seedlings

Petunia in open ground middle lane Russia is planted in the second half of May. Despite the fact that this culture is very heat-loving, modern varieties and hybrids (especially from the multiflora group) can tolerate cold snaps to low positive temperatures and even small short-term frosts. In big cities flowering seedlings Petunias can be planted in flower beds, flowerpots and balconies in late April - early May.

It is better to plant petunia seedlings on cloudy days or in the evening, after thoroughly watering the pots with water. The distance between plants depends on the variety and type of planting. For multi-flowered petunia in flower beds it is 15-20 cm, for large-flowered petunia - 20-25 cm, for ampelous - 25-30 cm.

In balcony boxes, containers, vases, the distance between plants can be reduced by one and a half times. After planting the seedlings, they are watered (if the soil is not moist enough), and the soil around the plants is mulched with peat or humus. Mulching allows the soil to retain moisture longer and protects plants during recurrent frosts.

Petunia seedlings are planted in pots and containers quite tightly - about 70 plants per 1 m². Surfinias and other groups of ampelous (i.e. hanging, creeping) petunias, as well as calibrachoa, are usually cultivated in hanging baskets, balcony boxes and tall vases. In order to achieve lush growth and abundant flowering in these plants, they must be frequently watered and sprayed with water (in hot, dry times - 2-3 times a day), fed at least once a week, alternating root feeding with non-root feeding (spraying by leaves). If growth and flowering are inhibited due to unfavorable weather conditions, treatment with growth stimulants (Epin-Extra or Zircon) gives good results.

Petunia care

Large-flowered forms are more demanding of heat, moisture and nutritional conditions than small-flowered forms. Feeding is the main condition for abundant and long flowering petunias, therefore they feed the plants regularly, starting a week after planting and until August with an interval of 7-10 days. Abundant flowering of petunias is ensured by complete complex fertilizers, especially with a predominance of potassium. Fertilizing with organic fertilizers, including mullein infusion, as well as humic fertilizers, gives very good results. Regular feeding continues until the end of flowering.

You need to take more care of petunia plants planted in small containers: containers, flowerpots, balcony boxes, especially in hanging baskets. The soil for them needs to be prepared nutritiously, consisting of humus, peat, turf or leaf soil and sand. The percentage composition of these components may vary; The main thing is that the mixture is loose and at the same time moisture-absorbing. To optimize its parameters, it is advisable to add perlite and hydrogel to the mixture. Lime is added to the mixture with high acidity. In addition, slowly dissolving complex complexes must be added to the soil mixture for small containers. mineral fertilizers. When filling boxes and containers with a mixture, drainage (gravel, expanded clay, etc.) must be poured into the bottom in a layer of at least 5 cm.

The greatest harm to decorative species petunias represent rain. During heavy summer rains, drops of water tear the delicate petals, making the flowers ugly and the plants sloppy. During prolonged rains, plants may completely lose their decorative properties and stop blooming. Therefore, before the rain, it is advisable to move flower pots and baskets with petunias under cover. You should also water the blooming petunia carefully, at the root, trying not to damage the flowers.

Ampelous petunias and calibrachoas can be severely affected by the wind, so baskets and flowerpots with them should be placed in places protected from the wind.

In many varieties of petunias, especially large-flowered and double forms, the appearance can be spoiled by wilted flowers. They are almost invisible in large areas, but can be clearly visible in flowerpots, flowerpots and small flower beds near paths. To improve the decorative effect of plantings, such flowers are removed.

Using petunia in garden design

The unique adaptability of petunia to different conditions cultivation, soils and climate, simplicity of agricultural technology, duration and brightness of flowering have made it one of the favorite crops of flower growers and landscapers. Currently, petunia occupies one of the first places in popularity among summer gardeners, and with the advent of new groups and hybrids, interest in it is increasing. The area of ​​its cultivation is huge - from the tropics to the Arctic and Alaska; its plantings can be found on all continents, except, perhaps, Antarctica.

Kor!An

Such popularity of petunias has become a consequence and reason that significant efforts of geneticists, botanists and breeders around the world are aimed at creating ever new varieties, hybrids and garden groups of petunias. Each of these groups is attractive in its own way and occupies a certain place in landscaping.

Traditionally, petunias are used to make flower beds, borders and borders, and are planted on balconies. Modern hybrids, thanks to their powerful root system, grow well in vessels with limited volume (containers, flowerpots, hanging baskets and vases). Terry varieties and hybrids are best planted in places protected from wind and heavy rain: on balconies, open verandas, loggias, in containers and near the house. Fast-growing hybrids of ampelous petunias allow you to cover empty spaces in the mixborder or after harvesting bulbous petunias.

Partners

All varieties of petunias are beautiful both on their own and in combination with other plants. In carpet plantings they are planted next to ever-flowering begonia, lobularia, various decorative leafy crops: coleus, cineraria, irezine, etc. In flower beds they look great next to most annuals, such as verbenas, snapdragons, helychrysum bracts, marigolds, celosias, ageratums, rudbeckia, gillyflower and others suitable in color and height for this variety.

At the end of spring - beginning of summer, petunias look very impressive next to pansies, primroses, as well as with bulbous plants - tulips, hyacinths, hazel grouse, and later - with irises and lilies. Near a pond and in a shady area they will make an excellent company with hostas, daylilies, Tradescantia virginiana and ornamental grasses.

In flowerpots and containers, petunias and calibrachoa will be combined with zonal pelargonium, fuchsia, lobularia, helichrysum petiolare, chlorophytum, balsam, and sweet peas. In hanging baskets and window boxes they can be planted with hanging plants such as lobelia, ivy, green grass, ivy leaf, verbena, ivy leaf pelargonium, etc.

Caroline Mulley

Diseases and pests

Blackleg

Pathogens: soil-dwelling fungi from the genera Olpidium, Pythium, Rhizoctonict, mainly Pythium debaryanum and Rhizoctonia solani.

Symptoms: the root part of the stem becomes watery, darkens and rots. The plant lays down and dies. The mycelium of the fungus quickly spreads across the substrate by expanding, often in even circles, affecting all new seedlings. Fungi infect seedlings starting from the first days of life. The disease is exceptional: in some cases, if no preventive and therapeutic measures are taken, all seedlings can be lost.

: too dense crops, high soil and air humidity, high temperature (above 20 ° C), high soil acidity.

Preservation of pathogens (capacity for disease): in the soil and on plant residues.

Control measures: the main attention should be paid to prevention: do not thicken the crops, do not use too heavy or acidic substrate ( optimal level soil acidity for petunia pH 5.5-7), water moderately, avoid excess nitrogen fertilizers, remove diseased seedlings with part of the surrounding substrate. When preparing a substrate for seedlings, it is undesirable to use soil from a garden or a greenhouse, but if there is no other soil, then it must be steamed, and then biological products containing antagonistic soil microorganisms that compete with pathogens (Agat-25 K, Fito-sporin, Trichodermin, etc.). For preventive purposes, you can water the soil with sulfur preparations (colloidal sulfur, Cumulus, “Tiovit jet” - 40 g/10 l of water).

When “black leg” appears, it is necessary to spray the plants and water the soil with a suspension of preparations containing mancozeb, metalaxyl or oxadixil (Ridomil MC, Profit, Ridomil Gold MC, etc. - 20-25 g/10 l of water).

Luanne Panerotti

Gray rot

Pathogen: imperfect mushroom Bothrytis cinerea. affecting many agricultural crops.

Symptoms: Light brown spots or rashes appear on leaves, stems and flowers, which are then covered with a gray fluffy coating of sporulated fungus. The affected parts of the plant first wither and then rot, turning into a brownish mass with a gray coating. Sometimes the fungus begins to develop in internodes, which leads to the death of the part of the plant located above the site of the lesion. If the damage is severe, the plant may die. The fungus infects petunia in any phase - from cotyledon leaves to seed ripening.

Conditions conducive to the spread of the disease: too dense crops and plantings, high air humidity, low temperature (below 14 ° C), excess nitrogen fertilizers, lack of light. The fungus usually infects plant tissue through wounds; it is able to penetrate into the flower through the pistil.

Pathogen persistence: in soil and on plant residues. The fungus can also overwinter on wooden structures of greenhouses.

Control measures: preventive - excessively dense sowing and planting, excessive watering, and too low temperatures should be avoided. The development of the disease stops at high air temperatures (25-27 ° C) and with a decrease in humidity to 80% and below. It is necessary to regularly remove the affected parts of the plant and plant debris that serve additional source infections, as well as increase the share of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in fertilizing.

Among the means of protection available to amateur flower growers, we can mention the biological product Integral (25 ml/1 l of water), chemical preparations Skor (2 ml/10 l of water) and Maxim (2 ml/1 l of water). However, all of these drugs are ineffective in severe cases of the disease.

White rot

Pathogen: marsupial mushroom Whetzelinia sclerotiorum (synonym - Sderotinia sclerotiorum).

Symptoms: the appearance of weeping brown spots, which in humid conditions are covered with a white coating of mycelium. The affected tissues soften and turn white. A white mycelium forms on the surface and inside the stem, on which black sclerotia - the reproductive organs of the fungus - soon form. When sclerotia mature, droplets of liquid form on them, which strongly refracts light. The shoots located above the affected part die off. The fungus can damage all parts of the plant.

Conditions conducive to the spread of the disease: low temperature and high humidity. Additionally contribute to this disease acidic soils, excessively dense plantings and untimely removal of affected plant parts. Plants become infected through mechanical damage to tissues, but the fungus is able to penetrate inside and through stomata, so it easily spreads throughout the flower garden on the hands and clothes of a person when caring for plants.

Pathogen persistence: in the soil and on plant debris in the form of sclerotia, which do not lose viability for up to three years. Mycelium may also persist.

Control measures: deep digging and liming of the soil, compliance proper agricultural technology, timely removal of affected parts of the plant. Good results are obtained by adding the biopreparation Trichodermin (2 g per hole) into the holes when planting seedlings. When the first signs of the disease appear, treatment with biological (Integral - 5 ml/1 l of water, Fitosporin-M - 4-5 g/1 l of water) or chemical (Maxim - 2 ml/1 l of water) preparations is necessary.

On especially valuable specimens, during the initial infection, it is necessary to clean the affected areas, and then sprinkle them with fluff lime or charcoal. It is advisable to sprinkle the soil around the plants with ash or crushed charcoal. These measures inhibit the development of the disease, but do not replace treatment with chemical or biological products.

muzicgurl1218

Wet rot

Pathogen: Rhizoctonia solani.

Symptoms: in the cotyledon leaf phase, the disease develops according to the “black leg” type (see above). From the picking stage until the end of the growing season, the pathogen causes rotting of the root collar, while the leaves droop and wrinkle, acquiring a gray-green color with a leaden tint. Oily light brown spots appear on the root collar, covered with a brown felt coating of fungal mycelium. Subsequently, small black sclerotia appear on the mycelium. Diseased plants are stunted, turn yellow and wither. The fungus can infect a plant at any age.

Conditions conducive to the spread of the disease: planting too deep, as well as acidic and waterlogged soils. The pathogen is not picky about conditions environment and can develop in the temperature range of 3-25 ° C, with soil moisture 40-100% and acidity pH 4.5-8.

Pathogen persistence: in the form of sclerotia and mycelium in the soil (at a depth of up to 80 cm) for up to 5-6 years. All this time he is capable of infection.

Control measures: preventive - high agricultural technology and timely removal of diseased plants; bacterial (Integral - 5 ml/1 l of water, Fitosporin-M - 4-5 g/1 l of water) and fungal (Trichodermin - 2 g of the drug per hole when planting seedlings) preparations. Seedlings are watered with suspensions of biological products and the sown seeds are sprayed. In this case, a capsule of beneficial microorganisms is formed around the roots.

When the disease appears, spraying is necessary chemicals(Ridomil MC, Profit, Ridomil Gold MC - 20-25 g/10 l of water).

Brown spot

Pathogen: Phyllosticta petuniae.

Symptoms: rusty-brown spots appear on the leaves, initially round, then oblong with concentric zones. Fruiting of the fungus forms on the light part of the spots. Affected leaves wither and dry out.

Conditions conducive to the spread of the disease: mechanical damage, high humidity
air.

Pathogen persistence: on fallen leaves.

Control measures: preventive - high agricultural technology. In order to prevent the disease, as well as when the disease appears, you can spray with copper-containing preparations at intervals of 7-10 days (Cartocide - 50 g/10 l of water, copper oxychloride - 40 g/10 l of water, Oksikhom - 20 g/10 l water, etc.).

Bena

Late blight

Pathogens: Phytophthora cryptogea and Phytophthora infestans.

Symptoms: the base of the stem turns brown and rots. The plant withers and subsequently dies. Damage is possible at any age, however, more often the disease coincides in timing with late blight of tomatoes and potatoes, which is associated with the peculiarities of the biology of the pathogens.

Conditions conducive to the spread of the disease: high air humidity, cold nights with heavy dew.

Pathogen persistence: in living wintering parts of plants that carry the disease (for example, diseased potato tubers planted in the garden). There is convincing evidence that infection does not persist in soil and plant debris.

Control measures: during the period of growing seedlings, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse well and not thicken the crops. After planting seedlings in the ground, preventive treatments can be carried out with copper-containing preparations (Kartotsid - 50 g/10 l of water, copper oxychloride - 40 g/10 l of water, Oksikhom - 20 g/10 l of water, etc.), but this often damages the flowers , which leads to loss of decorativeness for several days. Preparations based on mancozeb, metalaxyl or oxadixil act much more mildly (Ridomil MC, Profit, Ridomil Gold MC, etc. - 20-25 g/10 l of water).

In addition, they have not only a protective, but also a therapeutic effect, so they can be used during the period when signs of the disease have already appeared.

pcmga

The unique adaptability of petunia to various cultivation conditions, soils and climates, the simplicity of agricultural technology, the duration and brightness of flowering have made it one of the favorite crops of flower growers and landscapers. Currently, petunia occupies one of the first places in popularity among summer gardeners, and with the advent of new groups and hybrids, interest in it is increasing. We are waiting for your advice!

Petunia is one of the most successful plants for decorating a personal plot or balcony in the summer. The splendor of flowers, the variety of shades and the possibility of any placement - in flowerbeds, in flowerpots and in hanging planters– allows you to make separate compositions from it or combine it with other colors.

Petunia is native to the tropics of South America. It is a relative of tobacco, hence its name - “petun”, which means “tobacco”.

Bathonic description of flowers

Petunia is a perennial from the nightshade family. It has many forms - from bush to hanging and cascading. The colors of the flowers are very diverse - all shades of red, blue, light blue, purple, yellow, cream and white. There are two-color petunias - with bright stripes, a border or a star. The flowers are funnel-shaped in shape; they can be large, small, double or fringed.

Bush petunia can grow up to 70 cm, there are also small ones compact bushes up to 30 cm tall. In some types of petunias, lashes can grow up to 2 meters.

To decorate a garden or balcony, petunia is grown as annual plant, planting it every year with seeds or propagating by cuttings.

Types, varieties of petunias and their brief description with photos

Petunia has been cultivated since the 17th century, and breeders have been working on it for more than 100 years. Number of withdrawals hybrid varieties Petunias are difficult to count, but there are only a few of the most popular. In general, petunias are divided into several types.

Multi-flowered. It is distinguished by small flowers, blooms long and profusely, and is unpretentious in care. Loves warmth and light, does not react to cold weather and rainy weather. Suitable for decorating flower beds and borders, it makes a wonderful carpet flower bed.

Large-flowered. It has flowers up to 12 cm in diameter, double or fringed, more demanding to care for, and is widely used to decorate balconies.

Floribunda. It successfully combines the beauty of large-flowered petunia and the unpretentiousness of multi-flowered petunia. The colors of the flowers are very diverse; it is customary to decorate large flower beds with it or create large floral arrays.

Ampelnaya. The most favorite flowers of landscape designers. They decorate artificial reservoirs and stone compositions. Lives well outdoors and is weather resistant. The upward-growing stems fall down as they grow and hang in beautiful lashes strewn with flowers. The length of the stem usually does not exceed 1 m.

Photo. Ampelous petunia

Surfinia. Its stems can reach 2 meters in length, but it is not a hanging variety. The flowers are large, growing densely on the stem. The coloring is varied and rich.

Terry. Her beauty is difficult to overestimate. Corrugated petals magnificently decorate the compact low bush. It is good both in single plantings and in borders, and as a bright spot in flower arrangements. Easy to care for. Many of its varieties have varying degrees of terry, and the color range is strikingly diverse.

Cascade. Cascade petunia also produces long shoots, but differs from ampelous ones in the nature of their growth. Its stem can reach one and a half meters in length, it is more powerful and elastic. Stems not only grow downwards, they can grow to the sides.

Petunia varieties

Fantasy. The variety series includes 9 low-growing hybrids. Small-flowered - flower size up to 4 cm. Colors - red with a white throat, raspberry, salmon, red with burgundy streaks, pink with a cream-colored throat.

Plumcrystals. The variety series includes 13 hybrids with flowers of average size -6-9 cm. The colors are lilac-pink with purple veins, pink with dark pink veins, white, burgundy, crimson.

Picoti. A series of 4 hybrids with highly corrugated flowers and a wide white border along the edge of the petal. The bush is compact, 25 cm high. The color is red, pink, blue-violet, crimson.

Purple pirouette. The heavily double hybrid is usually violet-purple in color. The bush is small - up to 25 cm.

Photo. Petunia variety Pearl Pirouette

Sonia. The variety series includes 11 hybrids. The bush is low - up to 25 cm, color from white to raspberry-burgundy with a white star and contrasting veins.

The varieties in greatest demand are:

• Wonder wave– a very strongly growing cascade variety;
• Ramblin'– the most unpretentious variety, very beautiful;
• Dusty Rose– bush petunia with flowers of an unusual beautiful color;
• Easy wave– grows in a compact bush in the shape of a ball

Seeds for planting can be collected from the plant, or you can buy them in the store. If you plan to grow your own petunia seeds, choose a bush from which you will collect them. Seeds ripen fastest on the lower buds. The petunia fruit is a capsule with small seeds. They ripen 2 months from the start of budding. Each box contains about 100 seeds.

How to collect seeds

You can use your own or purchased petunia seeds.

It is important not to miss the moment of seed ripening, because the capsule may burst and the seeds may scatter. It is better to remove them from the fruit shell and store them in bags, labeling them with the variety. Within 4 months, the seeds will ripen at room temperature. Germination lasts up to 4 years.

When purchasing seeds, pay attention to the following circumstances:

• high-quality seeds are not packaged in large quantities. The bag should contain no more than 5 granulated seeds;
• quality seeds cannot be cheap. If a bag sells for 10-15 rubles, it’s not worth taking. Good products cost 20-50 rubles.

How to sow petunia

Sowing seeds for seedlings should begin in late February - early March. It is necessary to sow with a reserve, because due to the short daylight hours their germination rate is low. If possible, it is advisable to add additional light to the seedlings.

Sowing is done in light loose soil, consisting of leaf, turf and humus soil, peat and sand. The day before planting, it is watered abundantly. The top layer of the substrate can be sifted for greater uniformity. The seeds are mixed with dry sand and laid out on the surface of the soil, leveled and watered using a sprayer. Then the container is covered with film or glass and placed for germination in a room with a temperature of 20-23°C.

Important! Due to high humidity, condensation may appear on the film or glass. It must be wiped regularly to prevent the seedlings from becoming infected with blackleg.

Shoots appear in a week. Once a week they need to be sprayed with potassium permanganate. After 1 leaf appears, the glass or film is removed, the surface of the soil is lightly sprinkled with sand, and watering is reduced.

When 3-4 leaves are formed, the sprouts are transplanted into separate containers. Yogurt cups are very convenient for this purpose. The picking is done carefully, carrying the sprout by the leaf, trying not to disturb the roots or shake off the soil from them. After a week, you can start feeding the seedlings. Root and foliar feeding alternate. You can spray and water petunia seedlings with complex fertilizers Kemira or Nitrofoski.

Small-flowered hybrids bloom approximately two months after sowing the seeds, large-flowered ones – after three. It is important to know that when growing petunia from seeds, you will only get a pale copy of the mother plant.

Planting petunia in open ground

Petunia can be planted in open ground after the last spring frosts have passed. The soil for it should be sandy or loamy. Before planting petunia, add compost and humus to it. Do not use manure as a fertilizer; it may contain pathogens of fungal diseases that are dangerous for petunia. The place for planting is chosen to be open and sunny. It is very good to plant petunia next to roses. She will scare away dangerous pests from her neighbor.

Before planting, seedlings need to be hardened off. To do this, the plant is exposed daily to a room with a low temperature or outside. Every day the duration of hardening increases.

Bushes are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other for small-flowered petunia and 25-30 cm for large-flowered petunia. If you plant already blooming petunia, it will delight you with its beauty until the frost.

Important! Planting is best done in cloudy, dry weather or in the evening.

Caring for petunia flowers in the open ground

An unpretentious, drought-resistant plant that does not require much effort. It is important that the soil under the petunias is always moist (but not flooded!). They also need weeding, loosening and fertilizing.

Watering and fertilizing

Petunia should be watered as needed. Settled water is used for irrigation. Watering is done at the root so that water does not get on delicate flowers. The next day after watering, the weeds are loosened and weeded.

You need to feed flowers once a week, alternating organic fertilizers with minerals. Petunia will be more luxuriant if you water it from time to time. aqueous solution humates. The color of the buds will be more saturated when using a special fertilizer for petunia “Aquarin Floral”.

Important! Watering, fertilizing and weeding are best done in the evening or in cloudy weather.

Trimming

Mostly bush petunia can be formed. To do this, after planting in open ground, you need to pinch a few leaves at the top. Then the main stem will begin to branch, and the plant will be more lush.

It is impossible to form an ampelous petunia by pinching. Its stem continues to grow and does not want to branch into anything.

If you constantly remove faded buds, you can achieve new wave petunia blossoms.

Possible methods of propagating petunia

Petunia can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. Cuttings are possible only for ampelous, cascading and double petunias, as well as for all groups of mini-petunias. Cuttings are planted at the end of winter. Ampelous and mini petunias can be propagated by cuttings at any time of the year, if you extend daylight hours and provide a temperature of 21-24°C.

For propagation, apical cuttings with 4-6 leaves are taken, the lower ones are cut off, leaving only the upper two. The cuttings are planted in the same soil mixture as the seeds, at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other. They are covered with glass or film on top and left for rooting.

Important! Cuttings must be freshly cut! Their ability to take root is being lost by the minute!

Ampelous and terry petunias take root within 7 days, mini-petunias - within 2 weeks. Flowers should be replanted into separate containers when the roots grow to 1-1.5 cm. Yogurt cups are also suitable for cuttings. In order for the plant to branch, you need to pinch the top of the seedling at the level of 4-5 leaves. The cutting obtained by pinching can also be used as planting material. After 40-45 days, the grown plants can be planted in large pots. Caring for seedlings is the same as for adult petunias.

Diseases, pests and how to deal with them

Fungal infection - black leg on petunia

If you follow all the rules of care, petunia practically does not get sick. However, there are situations when it begins to dry out and turn yellow. In this case, you just need to adjust the care.

Among the diseases, petunia can be affected by fungal infections - late blight, blackleg, chlorosis, gray rot. Viral diseases in petunias are rare, but if they appear, they must be dealt with radically - throw away the diseased plant in the name of preserving the entire plantation.

Among the pests, petunia can be affected by aphids, thrips, spider mites and slugs. The means to combat them are insecticides.

When the petunia has bloomed

Petunia is grown in the garden as an annual plant. But nothing prevents you from keeping it at home winter time. After it has bloomed in the open ground (in October), dig up the bush, transplant it into a pot and put it in a cool room to rest. Petunia needs to be watered from time to time, keeping the soil moist. It will need to be “awakened” in February by moving it to a bright window sill at room temperature and resuming regular watering.

The plant will produce young shoots that need to be cut to form a stump when the first 2-3 leaves appear. The cut shoots are transplanted into a pot with the usual soil for petunia, covered with film and placed in the shade. They are looked after by watering and aerating until they take root. Then the seedlings are planted in separate containers and grown before being transplanted into open ground.

The use of petunia in landscape design

Cascade petunia, widely used to create compositions in landscape design

Cascading petunia is ideal for creating individual compositions on personal plot. It grows in different directions, forming a large flower “cushion”. Cascading petunia is good for decorating gazebos and creating individual compositions on a support; it creates a flower array up to 2 meters in diameter. If planted on the ground, the stems will spread and form a flower carpet.

Ampelous petunia can very beautifully decorate a house or gazebo, hanging the pots the way you like.

Large areas of soil can be filled with terry petunia. It looks great if you combine plants of different colors in one flowerbed.

Petunia looks very beautiful placed on a green lawn in flowerpots. In flower beds, it does not have to be planted in open ground; you can grow different varieties of it in containers, and then combine them in different color ranges in flower arrangements.

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Petunia, planting and care, or how to achieve lush flowering

Gardeners' favorite flower is petunia, planting and caring for which requires knowledge, it is quite unpretentious in growing, but there are still some difficulties, so it is better to familiarize yourself with the problems in full. Sowing petunia seeds for seedlings is an easy process, but not everyone can achieve good seedlings. Why does this happen, and what needs to be done to get good seedlings and beautiful lush bushes You will find out about petunias when you read the article.

Crop care

In the last article, we learned in detail what happens at home, clarified the timing of sowing seedlings, and selected high-quality soil and containers.

The first shoots under optimal conditions will appear in 3-5 days. If the planting criteria have been violated, the sprouts may take a long time to hatch. To speed up the sowing, increase the temperature to the optimum (+25 °...+30 °C), wait a little.

You should not open the container until the first shoots appear. Wait until all the cotyledons open, then remove the transparent film (cover). It is very important that all the first tiny leaves appear, otherwise after removing the protective coating (film), the seedlings will lag behind in development.

Please note that it is not possible for all seedlings to be the same size. Even in better conditions Size differences will be noticeable. After removing the lid, water the babies for the first time. It is better to water along the walls of the container so as not to damage the fragile sprouts. In the future, irrigation is carried out as the substrate dries, not forgetting that excessive waterlogging will have a detrimental effect on the seedlings.

petunia seedlings - in the photo

The temperature during this period is slightly lower, +18 °…+22 °С. It is connected with the fact that the kids form good roots and a powerful outlet, and do not stretch out due to lack of light and high temperature in the apartment. The plantings can be placed on a light windowsill, directly to the window, where the temperature is lower.

When the daylight hours are still too short or there is not enough sun, be sure to supplement the crops with light to avoid stretching (12-14 hours), using. Care should be taken during this period; place the lamps at a distance of 15-20 cm from the seedlings, so as not to increase the temperature, but to achieve good lighting.

Monitor temperature and light throughout the growing period, from planting to care. Seedlings will stretch when there is insufficient light and plenty of heat; at low temperatures and poor lighting the same thing happens.

Young animals should be fed if necessary. Assess the condition of the shoots visually; it is better to feed the elongated seedlings with faded leaves, but the rich green ones do not need to be touched. The first fertilizing is carried out no earlier than two weeks after the emergence of seedlings (18-25 days from the moment of sowing).

How to fertilize petunia at an early stage?

You can use any complex fertilizer that is suitable for vegetable and flower crops (Kemira Lux, Fertika). Later, when the formation of flower ovaries and the formation of buds occurs, it is recommended to increase potassium nutrition.

petunia grown by seedlings - in the photo

There is no need to wait for a pick to . Weak sprouts can be fertilized in a container, and replanted when they get stronger. Forums and other places on the Internet contain information that you need to fertilize strictly after picking, but this is not true. Any experienced gardener will advise you to first feed, if necessary, then replant. In order not to over-moisten the thin and fragile roots, before fertilizing it is recommended to first dry the substrate a little, or rather, reduce watering or stop altogether.

In conditions with low temperature and sufficient illumination, the crops should be kept until the moment of the first picking, i.e. until 2-3 leaves appear. In the best case, the whole process will take 2-3 weeks, but in practice, at home, the third pair of leaves appears 7-10 days later.

Petunia pick

While petunias are growing, it is necessary to choose the right container for picking so that the grown plants feel comfortable and cozy after planting in a new place. It is worth noting that small sprouts need a small space, then the root system will completely occupy the entire provided volume and this will be correct.

Large horns are not suitable for planting seedlings at the age of one month, since the roots will not be able to occupy the required volume. As a result, nutrition and water absorption will be inadequate. This means that the kids will feel and grow worse. For month-old seedlings, cups with a diameter of 6-8 cm are suitable. These sizes are sufficient for proper development and growth.

petunia seedlings BEFORE picking - in the photo

Nowadays you can buy various cups, pots and cassettes in garden stores. Choose those that are appropriate for your age and must have exit holes. excess liquid. When the cups have holes or slits, watering can be done through a tray, and the roots are guaranteed to breathe, so it is better to give preference to such containers.

Take the cups, fill them with the substrate you used when sowing the seeds and water them. There is no need to compact the soil tightly. Carefully remove the plants from the bowl, trying to get the whole mass at once. Now, using tweezers or your hands, separate one plant along with the roots.

Make a hole in the cup to suit the size and place the baby, press down a little with soil so that the root collar does not dangle. Add soil mixture if necessary. After picking, be sure to water the seedlings again.

Many gardeners trim the roots when replanting; other experts do not consider this procedure necessary, since they are already slightly damaged when pruning, stimulating the formation of new ones.

Picked petunia is now kept at a temperature of +17°...+19°C, so the seedlings will not stretch out and will form a strong rosette. You should start feeding the sprouts no earlier than when new leaves appear. The backlight can now be removed, let the plants develop independently (except in cases where there is not enough sunlight).

petunia seedlings AFTER picking - in the photo

After about 25-30 days, if the growing conditions are met, the babies will grow noticeably and become stronger. Ampelous petunia will send out powerful side shoots, but the top will not grow. Other species will have nice green foliage. If you take the plant out of the cup, you can see how the roots completely entwine the entire earthen ball. This means that it is time for a transplant, i.e. We dive a second time.

Now you need to replant them in pots in which the plant will bloom and there will be an opportunity to plant it outside and create beautiful compositions in the flowerbed. For large-flowered and double petunia, it is recommended to use pots with a volume of 0.5 and 0.7 liters. Liter varieties are suitable for ampelous varieties. The plants will bloom in these pots, and then we will plant them in open ground when beautiful colors are visible in order to correctly form the compositions. The process of the second picking is carried out by analogy with the first.

Some gardeners practice pinching, removing the apical growing point and shortening the side shoots. Pinching petunia is not always justified, especially at the seedling stage, the time frame in which it is carried out is extended (30-35 days from the first picking). Please note that plants are genetically predetermined by the power of tillering and branching; pinching will not fix the problem, you will only weaken the bush and postpone flowering to a later time. New modern varieties and hybrids of petunias no longer require additional pinching, as before.

Planting petunias - when to plant in open ground and how to care?

After about 24-35 days, petunia will bloom for the first time in pots. Thus, about 78-95 days will pass from the moment of sowing. Naturally, the time periods will coincide if the conditions were suitable after planting and proper care of the petunia.

planting petunia in a permanent place - in the photo

Good seedlings will have strong internodes, several flowers and unopened buds, as well as green foliage. Petunia is transplanted into open ground at the age of 80-100 days, depending on the condition of the plants. As a rule, at this age all seedlings are ready to be planted outside - they have strong immunity and endurance.

Before planting the beauty in a flower pot, you need to decide how many plants you will grow in one pot. As a rule, for 3-4 plants, take a pot with a volume of 3-5 liters, depending on the variety and branching power. To make the plants look harmonious and avoid voids, plant lobelia bushes or other crops in between.

Watering petunias in pots should be done deeply; the substrate should be irrigated completely. Small and frequent watering, which inhibits the root system, is not allowed. Plants will not be able to absorb the entire volume of the pots if you irrigate only from above. Roots go where there is moisture.

Adult petunia is fed every 14-18 days, instead of watering, and abundantly enough to allow the plants to bloom well and luxuriantly. It is better to cut off flowers that have wilted along with the peduncle so that seeds do not begin to form.

Petunia, planting and caring for which requires sufficient attention and adherence to correct agricultural practices, will ultimately reward you with gorgeous flowering.