How to make a door lock. How to make a deadbolt from improvised material Locking for a padlock

If you have neither time nor extra money to improve door structure, you can make a door closer with your own hands. In this case, you can use the simplest items that you probably have in your pantry. Such a homemade mechanism will allow you to eliminate the problem of door knocking at minimal cost.

Simple door closer You can assemble it yourself from scrap materials

Before you try to make a door closer from scrap materials with your own hands, you need to determine what tasks this device should perform. Let's look at the main functions of the closer:

  • Shock absorption – protecting the door from impacts when closing abruptly, for example, from a draft or with great force. Thus, the closer prevents damage to the coating of both the canvas and the frame.
  • Adjusting the speed of movement of the door leaf does not allow sudden movements either in the direction of closing or in the opposite direction.
  • Closing delay - the canvas is delayed at a certain distance from the box and this ensures a smoother closing.
  • Locking the open position – if necessary, you can lock the door in the wide open position without fear that it will accidentally slam shut.
  • Pulling the door - if insufficient force was applied to close it, the device will complete the process by pulling the leaf directly to the frame.

The closer performs three functions: regulates the door closing speed, slows down and brakes

Of course, a homemade door stop is not capable of fully performing all the given functions, but it is quite capable of coping with the main design flaws.

Automotive parts

If you don’t know how to make a door closer with your own hands, look for suitable spare parts in a car door. It's great if you have an unnecessary spare part that ensures smooth movement of the trunk in five-door models. In this case, a car door motion limiter can be installed in the opening of an interior or even an entrance door. How to make a door closer from a spare car door with your own hands? To attach the lifter rod and cylinder, you will need to attach a bracket with “fingers” to the parts. Screw one side of it to the wall or frame, and the other to the canvas. With the help of such a device, you can ensure not only smooth movement of the door, but also hold it in place. open position if necessary.

You can build a door closer with your own hands using spare parts from a car door closer

Rubber bulb

Make a door closer for door system you can do it yourself from a piece of a car inner tube, a hose, an elastic band, a cable, a wrist expander, and even from an object such as a rubber bulb. If you were unable to find such a thing at home, you can easily purchase it at any pharmacy for almost pennies.

How to make a door closer with your own hands from a rubber bulb:

  1. Mark the location of the device. It can be placed on the box either from the side external corner canvas, and closer to the loops. The second option is preferable, as it will ensure a smoother closing of the door.
  2. Using a nail or screw, secure the bulb so that its sharp end faces the frame.

When the canvas hits a homemade limiter, soft shock absorption and silent slamming are provided. The pear is slowly deflated under, smoothly bringing it to the loot. When opened, the rubber part quickly restores its shape and can again perform the functions of a closer assigned to it. In the same way, you can make a homemade door closer from a tennis ball. You can secure this part with your own hands using a self-tapping screw. To prevent the ball from moving out of its place, strengthen the fixation area with rubber gasket or a piece of plywood.

Spring

The simplest option to make a door closer with your own hands is to use a spring.

Not only the size, but also the stiffness of the spring is of decisive importance. It should provide the effect of slowing down the movement, but at the same time attract the canvas quite smoothly.

This part is attached directly to the doorway. One end of it is screwed to the frame, and the other is mounted to the edge of the door leaf. The closer the spring is to the hinges, the less effect it provides.

You can use a spring as a material at hand for making a door closer.

This home-made door closer works as follows: when opening the doors, the spring is tensioned and prevents excessively sudden movements. In order to fix the blade in the open position, you need to lock reverse stroke devices. If you don't close the door completely, this small detail will do everything for you, pulling it to the frame.

Magnet

A magnet is more of a kind of alternative to a door closer. Making such a mechanism with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. To do this you will need a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a chisel, a metal plate with holes and a magnet.

To ensure a tight rebate, it is recommended to install the parts almost flush. You can leave a small protrusion so that the magnet and metal can adhere to each other. First, outline the position of the elements. The magnet is attached to the frame, and the metal plate is attached to the door leaf in such a way that in the closed position they overlap each other. Using a chisel, scrape the coating to the required depth. Using self-tapping screws, fix both parts and check their operation.

Using ordinary available materials, you can make a door closer with your own hands. It can be used as a temporary device or you can completely stop with this choice.

Hello, master! How can you design a cunning internal lock for a garage at your dacha? If it's easy, can you give me some advice?

Roman, Moscow.

Hello, Roman from Moscow!

You know, the main thing is not to outsmart yourself. Among our shabby circles there is a story about how a certain man hung a sledgehammer in his garage, which, if you don’t know about it, when opened, should hit the burglar in the forehead. Naturally, the man one day, drunk, forgot about this, with all that it entailed.

There is no trick against scrap except another scrap. Everything can be opened, another thing is that sometimes this takes a lot of time, and a thief does not always have this time.

I already talked about some tricks on my website. Therefore, perhaps I will repeat myself a little.

I consider several methods to deter burglars to be the most effective.

First. When beyond the usual garage doors two more gate leaves made of reinforcement (ordinary grille) are installed. And a simple padlock. But he hangs the wrong way outside, but from the inside. And it is covered from the outside with a welded plate. That is, it is impossible to see it, even if the outer gate is opened. And you have to open it by putting your hands behind the plates, by touch.

We did this and always laughed when the burglars, having opened the first gates, did not know what to do next. Moreover, all the garage things were already visible through the bars.

But this is not always feasible for a number of reasons.

Second option. A regular rack and pinion lock (with a plate key and not a round key). And a sheet of rubber about a centimeter thick (approximately 10/10 centimeters in size) is attached to one gate leaf from the inside. With a couple of bolts. The point is that sometimes, without opening the lock, bad people bend the metal of the gate and try to saw through the lock tongues with a hacksaw blade. The blade rests on the rubber and cannot cut. In my garage one day they knocked down the outside padlock, peeled back the trim and started trying to saw off the top tab. But then they spat and finished.

Third option. When an external conventional padlock is covered with a welded box so that it is almost invisible. This ensures that the lock can be knocked down or cut down only after cutting the box. And this is somewhat difficult in the absence of access to sources electric current, even if you have an angle grinder.

I’m not talking about video surveillance systems, but one client I know had a dummy video camera installed at an inaccessible height. He says it helps.

In addition, you can use a regular rail inside the garage, like a latch, which moves freely inside the supporting brackets and is closed in one position and open in another. To open, a key is used in the form of a pin, at the end of which a plate hangs on an axis. The owner first trains on open door and, if necessary, sharpens and adjusts the key for free opening. What is achieved by inserting the key to a certain depth into a hole made in the metal of the door (gate), up to the mark made on the key.

Such a lock is characterized only by the presence of a hole on the outside, which means nothing to the burglar.

For one client, we installed a custom hardened pentagon head bolt from inside the garage. This bolt could only be unscrewed with your own wrench and nothing else. The whole difficulty lies in the manufacture of such a bolt. That is, it was possible to go through the door, but the gate was locked from the inside with such a bolt. Thieves could steal small change, but not the whole car.

Since all these descriptions may not be entirely understood, but drawing a bunch of sketches takes a long time, I will limit myself to depicting for clarity only one version of a rack and pinion lock.

By way of explanation, I’ll add that the hole in one of the gate leaves is about 10 millimeters, the key shaft itself is about 8 millimeters. The hanging plate hangs freely on a small axis. When the key is inserted, both the plate and the key shaft form a single straight line. After the key is inserted to the mark on the rod, the plate lowers under its own weight and falls into one of the slots on the rail. If not the first time, then move the key, it will definitely hit.

To prevent the rail from falling out, it goes in one direction until it stops, and in the other direction until it reaches the welded bracket. In total, you have to weld two brackets and one corner stop. After opening the rack lock, the second half of the gate is opened with a pair of latches, which are located in the upper and lower parts of the gate leaf. But this is already elementary.

Closing is done in a similar way; when the key is pulled out, the plate itself acquires the desired position and the key can be removed freely.

Lubricate the rail with liquid machine oil, otherwise called a spindle.

In this entire structure the most important detail- plate, its length is main secret lock, and since this size is not visible from the outside, it is almost impossible to guess it.

Of course there are plenty of other options. But enough said. You can't tell everything.

Other questions on the topic of garages.

IN Lately Increasingly, the choice of locking device is front door multi-storey building stands behind its residents. A lock is installed on the entrance door to prevent unauthorized persons from entering the house, whose presence is manifested in the form of garbage, cigarette butts, syringes, and also to complicate the work of burglars.

Modern manufacturers offer wide choose locks of various price categories and designs. In order to make a choice, you need to know what they are and on what principle they work.

When choosing a locking device, you need to pay attention to the following: the level of secrecy, the degree of burglary resistance, on which its reliability depends, the type and design of the mechanism.

Classification

The entrance lock is classified depending on the type of control panel:

  • mechanical panels: with plastic, metal or rubber buttons. Service life is several thousand hundred clicks.
  • optical panels. Such designs are more durable. Their operation is based on the intersection of vertical and horizontal infrared rays, which transmit a signal to the control unit that occurs when touched.

The entrance lock to the entrance can be:

  • invisible lock;
  • electromechanical;
  • electromagnetic;
  • coded with mechanical locking.

Invisible locks have an electronic control mechanism via a microprocessor and are unlocked using a mobile device or key fob remote control. They have a high level of privacy, however, due to the high cost, including maintenance, they are practically not used for installation on the entrance door.

When choosing a lock for an entrance, due to the specifics of its application, you should pay attention to following points. It must be resistant to temperature changes, moisture and dust. The presence of backlighting of numbers will greatly simplify its operation in the dark. Since there is a widespread trend of installing intercoms, the design of the lock should allow for integration with interactive devices.

Installation

Installing a lock in the entrance is carried out using tools such as a grinder, drill, metal drills, tape measure or ruler, wire cutters and screwdrivers. Installation of a rim lock comes down to attaching the body and strike plate with self-tapping screws to the metal leaf and door jamb.

Mortise lock installation steps:

  1. By attaching the lock to the door leaf or making a paper template, mark the cabinet niche and places for fasteners.
  2. A niche is cut out and holes for the bolts are drilled.
  3. The locking mechanism is inserted and securely fastened.
  4. The code panel is installed and connected to the mechanism itself.
  5. A hole for the crossbars is drilled on the jamb of the driveway door and a strip is installed.
  6. The functioning of the lock is checked.

The accompanying documents for combination locks always contain detailed instructions, following which it is enough to simply mount the device yourself. If you do not have plumbing skills, it is better to contact a specialist.

Recoding

Since the numbers on the panel can be erased over time, let's look at how to change the code on the lock at the entrance. For this purpose, the device is dismantled by removing the panel.

The design of the lock is represented by special plates that have small cuts that are directed inside the mechanism when used for coding. Plates with cuts directed outward are attached to the buttons that are not involved in decoding the lock for opening. To change the code, you need to turn the plates over. As a rule, the code combination involves three digits.

Electromagnetic locking devices

The carrier of the code in such locks is a magnet, which is presented in the form of a card, key fob or the more familiar tablet. The magnetic lock has high level secrecy, however, requires an uninterruptible power supply for normal operation. Often such a device is available in the form.

Operating principle

The main element magnetic lock is an electromagnetic coil with a steel core mounted on a non-opening sash. When electricity is supplied, a magnetic field is generated, attracting a metal plate that is attached to the second leaf. The strike plate is also made of steel, which is coated with nickel or chromium compounds that have anti-corrosion properties.

Kinds

By design, a magnetic lock can be:

  • Holding, which closes the door solely due to the magnetic attraction of the leaves. This is the most common type of electromagnetic locks installed in the overhead manner.
  • Shift: due to the influence of a magnet, it is not the flaps that are held in place, but the tongue that is fixed. Such devices are mounted by cutting into door leaf.

Both types are marked using the index “ML”, to which a number is added through a hyphen. The numbers indicate the force, measured in kilograms, that must be applied to open the lock.

Installing a magnetic lock

To install a magnetic lock you will need a drill, metal drills, measuring tool, screwdrivers.

Stages of installation of an overhead magnetic lock:

  1. The holes on the sashes are marked for fasteners by applying a lock and a strike plate.
  2. Fastening the main and “reciprocal” parts of the lock.
  3. The device reader is installed.
  4. Connection to power supply.
  5. Checking the work.

Visual detailed instructions for installing a magnetic lock on the entrance are shown in the video.

Device comparison

The table below shows Comparative characteristics in various ways entrance protection - combination lock, magnetic lock without installing an intercom and with it.

It is worth noting that the combination lock received the final highest score, but its actual security is the lowest. At the same time, equipping the entrance with an intercom, on the contrary, provides maximum protection. Therefore, the choice should be made based on a combination of indicators.

Also, when choosing, it is necessary to take into account the financial capabilities of the residents of the entrance, which can often become a decisive factor. In any case, you should not neglect the protection of the door, because even the most modest combination lock will become an obstacle in the way of ill-wishers who do not have professional hacking skills, and will help protect the elevator and staircase from littering and vandalism.

This article will discuss how to properly install an intercom. Many apartment owners have already installed this useful device and it was appreciated. We will not delve into its advantages or operating principle; we will only note that if you intend to install an intercom, but do not know where to start, then you should read this article to the end.

First, you should familiarize yourself with the key points. Calling device The intercom is installed outside and is intended to call one of the residents and conduct negotiations. Some modern models designed for two or even several subscribers, and also combine different access control options.

Intercom - no less important protection from unwanted entry than a strong door

The intercom itself is installed indoors and is intended for conversation with the visitor. The simplest version of the device is an audio tube.

Note! There are more difficult option intercom – a video intercom that allows you not only to negotiate with visitors, but also to see them.

Before installing the intercom, you should acquire all necessary tools. The work may require:


The choice of one kit or another depends entirely on financial opportunities. Yes, most simple option is audio communication equipment, consisting of a ringing device and a “telephone” handset and only allows you to talk remotely with a visitor.

The video intercom mentioned above is more expensive. It can be of two types:

  • black and white;
  • colored.

Most of the current video intercoms support multiple communication channels and allow you to connect three or four additional cameras that expand the viewing angle.

Almost all intercoms provide the ability to control electric combination locks.

Stage 1. Selecting a location for installation

Not only the viewing angle, but also the ease of use of the equipment as a whole depends on where the calling device is installed. Often such a device is installed on the door opening side at a height of 1.5-1.6 m from the floor.

Note! If we're talking about about a video intercom, the preferred installation height is precisely 1.6 m, since the viewing angle of a standard camera often ranges from 70-75ᵒ vertically and 80-90ᵒ horizontally. This feature must be taken into account when choosing a location.

Regarding the intercom itself, it can be installed in any suitable place. The main thing is that the call signal can be heard in all rooms.

Stage 2. Laying electrical wiring

This is one of the most critical stages of installation, since the stability of the operation of all equipment depends on the quality of the wiring. One of three is suitable for this the above options cable:

  • "twisted pair";
  • communication signal wire;
  • telephone cable.

A cable 35-40 m long (no more) is taken and led from the calling device. Of course, gating the walls of the entrance landing This is undesirable, so the wiring is carried out along the walls and fixed with special fasteners. It is recommended to avoid high-voltage power cables, as they can cause interference in the circuit or even damage all equipment. At best, the quality of the audio or video signal will deteriorate.

Note! When installing an electric lock in a door, a power cable is laid in parallel. It can be carried out from a call to the door or from it to the intercom - it all depends on the chosen connection scheme.

Also, 220 V power is supplied to all system modules.

Stage 3. Installation of an intercom in the apartment

After competent preparatory work This stage will not cause any difficulties, the main thing is to strictly follow the instructions.

Step 1.

Step 2. Mark the place where you need to install the intercom; the fastening points are determined by the building level.

Step 3. Holes are made in appropriate places for the screws (in most cases there are no more than three) necessary for attaching the fixing metal plate. It is worth remembering, however, that in concrete walls First, the dowels are installed, and only then the screws themselves.

Step 5. The stripped ends are attached to the connecting terminals - this is necessary not only for fastening strength, but also for safety.

Step 6.

Step 7. The system connects to the network. If the wires are connected correctly, then everything should work.

Video - Installing an intercom

Note! The installation technology described below applies to an intercom installed directly near the apartment, but not outside.

To install a video intercom you will need:

  • socket;
  • monitor;
  • cable with a cross section of 0.22x4 mm;
  • bracket;
  • pair technical boxes– 2.5x1.6 cm and 1x1.6 cm;
  • electronic lock;
  • liquid Nails;
  • cambric;
  • 12 V power supply;
  • call panel (with a camera and, if possible, vandal-proof).

The sequence of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. First, determine the location for the monitor. Due to the fact that power will be supplied to the monitor, it is advisable to mount it on the wall near the electrical panel.

Step 2. The cable is pulled to the door.

Step 3. At a pre-selected location, attach a bracket for mounting the monitor to the wall. For convenience, the monitor is installed at eye level.

Step 4. The panel is removed from the shield, after which liquid nails the socket is attached and the cables are connected: one to the phase through the machine, the second to the zero bus.

Note! In the absence of a free machine, you need to install a new one, specifically for the video intercom.

Step 5. To lay the wires in the hall, a 1x1.6 cm box is attached, then the wires from the power supply and video surveillance are pulled.

Step 6. The monitor is hung up and the wires are connected to it (according to the instructions):

  • white for video;
  • green for monitor (general);
  • yellow for sound;
  • red for +12 W.

In most cases, such monitors are equipped with spring contacts: they are pressed, the cable is inserted and released - the contact is clamped. All wires are pre-stripped.

If the instructions detailed diagram no, you can always find it on the Internet.

Step 7. Next comes the installation of the lock. It is advisable to choose an electromagnetic one, since it can function even without electricity. The lock will be opened from the inside using a mechanical button, and from the outside using an electromagnetic key.

The lock is installed on the non-opening side of the door leaf, the lock is installed on the opening side, but in such a way that the chamber is one and a half meters from the floor (maximum 1.6 m). To mount the camera, holes are made in the door, then screws marked “MB” are used. The holes are closed with decorative plugs.

Step 8. Then a closer is installed to adjust the speed of closing the door. Using the adjusting screws, the closing speed is set, after which the closer is closed with a lid.

Step 9. Controllers are installed. Usually they come in a pair - one controls the lock, the second controls the Touch Memory reader (for opening with an electromagnetic key). The last option allows you to install similar videophones in apartment buildings, but with a preliminary reading of all keys to the entrance.

The power source (necessarily stabilized) is connected to an energy-saving lamp and mounted under the ceiling.

Step 10. All wires are connected (old good method"twists") and are insulated with heat-shrinkable cambric.

Video – Connecting a video intercom

Price and other important points

Despite the apparent simplicity of the steps described above, installing an intercom requires a lot of effort and time. Moreover, you need to be extremely careful when working, because even the most trivial mistake can affect the quality of video or audio signals. Therefore, it is better to entrust the installation to professionals.

First, the contractor sends a specialist to inspect the apartment, take measurements and draw up a rough estimate. There are many factors that influence the cost installation work, but the main one is the type of living space.


In this case, the installation procedure will proceed as follows.

  1. After drawing up the estimate, an agreement is concluded that details the responsibilities of the two parties.
  2. Next, installation is carried out, after which the client checks the functionality of the system.
  3. Before leaving, the company employee must instruct the client and tell him about all the nuances of operation. He also provides a warranty card and all related documentation.

conclusions

Intercom is great way protect your home from thieves and uninvited guests. It allows you to observe everything that is happening outside without leaving the room. At the same time, the main factor determining the stable and reliable operation devices, is precisely competent installation. The work can be done with your own hands, but in the absence of experience or minimal knowledge in the field of radio engineering, it is better to turn to specialists.

And finally, another useful video.

Video - DIY intercom key

Making and installing a door closer with your own hands is a technically simple task and even a beginner can do it home handyman. When performing this operation, you need to understand functional purpose of this device: bring the canvas to a completely closed state. This is especially necessary in winter time, because through a crack in a loosely closed door it penetrates cold air from the street.

The design of a factory-made device is quite complex. The spring mechanism works on compression when opening, and the smooth movement when closing is ensured by a piston system filled with oil. The mechanism housing must be sealed. Making such a device with your own hands is quite difficult.

A homemade door closer, created with your own hands, like a factory-made device, can be based on the elasticity of the material. But at home it is easier to make a lining that acts like a spring, stretching when the door is opened. Returning the closer to its original position attracts the door leaf to the frame, closing it.

The gravitational design is no less simple. The principle of operation of a door closer with a weight is that the door returns to its place under the influence of gravity, which puts pressure on the weight, which pulls the leaf into the closed position.

Options for door closers that you can make yourself

A simple door closer can be easily made with your own hands from a piece of rubber. The elastic material meets all the requirements for the product: it stretches and contracts with a force sufficient to return the door to its zero position. The rubber density must be selected depending on the weight of the door leaf: the heavier it is, the thicker the tape should be used for the door closer.

When installing the device, the ends of the tape are secured as follows:

  • the first - on the frame at a distance of 5-10 cm from the plane of the canvas adjacent to it;
  • the second - on the panel itself.

To adjust the force when opening and closing the door, measure the distance at which the end of the tape is fixed to the door leaf. The farther it is from the hinged side, the more the rubber closer will contract.

Another option for making a closer - gravity - involves the use of a cable with a load. The end of the cord should be attached to the canvas at the top. For reliability, a metal plate with a hole can be used: it is easier to tie a cable to it.

To make a block mechanism, you need a bracket with an axle (for example, from a broken furniture roller or skateboard). If it is possible to use ready block, the task becomes easier, but in its absence you can do it in 2 ways:

  • the cable is simply thrown over the axle;
  • make a wheel with a groove for the cord and install it in the bracket.

In the latter case, the cable will slide more easily. It will be possible to attach a weight to the free end of the cord that is sufficient to pull the door leaf to the frame.

Car enthusiasts have the opportunity to make a door closer with their own hands from the lifting mechanism of the luggage compartment of a sedan or hatchback car. This unit is distinguished by the presence of shock absorption and smooth opening functions. The device must first be modified by attaching plates with holes for attaching to it. door frame and canvas.

It is easy to make a compact closer from a small holey rubber ball or a medical bulb:

  1. Round rubber product attached to a wooden or metal plate using screws.
  2. The structure must be installed on the frame from the outside so that the edge of the ball is at the level of the junction of the box and the canvas on the hinge side.
  3. Install on an outward opening door close to the ball metal corner, the length of one side of which is equal to the diameter of the ball.

When opened, the corner will compress the ball, squeezing the air out of it. By expanding, the ball will force the door to return to its original position.

A magnetic latch is more appropriate on an interior door. It does not perform a closing function, but reliably holds the door in the closed position in the event of a slight draft. To make the structure, you need a strong magnet and a small steel plate. The parts are attached to the frame and canvas so that when closed door they overlapped each other. If the thickness of the elements is too large, then recesses can be made for them in wooden door.

Spring closer

The most common type of closers are springs. It is not difficult to install a spring closer with your own hands, and the durability of the device is superior to others homemade designs. There are 2 options for installing the closer:

  • in the middle of the box;
  • on the top.

The last option is used if you want to hide a spring that is not decorative.

The spring stiffness must be selected depending on the weight of the door. To prevent the sash from slamming when the spring contracts, it is worth installing a shock absorber. The material for it can be a thin rubber hose: it will not prevent the door from closing smoothly when the door is close to the zero position.

The ends of the spring closer are attached to the frame and canvas with special plates with hooks. When installed on the side of the box, fastening to the frame is done from the hinge side. Depending on the distance from this point to the fastening on the leaf, you can adjust the force of slamming the sash.

Option top installation can be different, and you can fix the door closer with your own hands in any convenient location on the top side of the frame and near the edge of the canvas.

It is convenient to install the shock absorber at the junction of the canvas and the frame on the side of the hinges. You can secure the hose with glue (liquid nails) or self-tapping screws. When the spring is activated to close, the edge of the canvas will rest against the rubber product, and then will be gently pulled towards the frame.

Door installation

You can install a homemade or factory-made door closer according to the rules common to all options:

  • find the maximum door opening angle;
  • make markings for attaching the ends at the desired height or location;
  • make holes for fasteners;
  • strengthen the ends of the spring or other type of structural parts;
  • If necessary, adjust the tightness of the sash.

Settings

Setting up a homemade mechanism is as follows:

  • the speed of movement of the sash in a homemade product is regulated by changing the length of the elastic element (in spring structures) or the weight of the load (in gravitational ones);
  • To change the adjustment to the zero position, change the thickness of the shock-absorbing hose.

When setting up, you can take into account other design flaws, for example, install a shock absorber on the load if it touches the wall, enlarge the hole in the ball if the door is difficult to open, etc.