Now it is fashionable to talk about the special energy of a tree, its beneficial effects on humans, etc. But, even if we discard the esotericism and turn to modern science, you can see that the moisture absorption characteristics, air microfiltration parameters and other properties of wood meet the requirements human body many times better than the most advanced materials.

A house made of wood is talked about as “living”, preserving the health of its owners. This is true with certain reservations, but reverse side such properties – the need for reciprocal care. "Classical" log house from natural wood requires much more care and supervision than brick or concrete.

To begin with, a tree has a high degree of fire danger material. At the same time, various types of fire-prevention impregnations and coatings either noticeably worsen the notorious environmental component and (or) aesthetics of wood, or lead to a noticeable increase in cost. In addition, most fire retardants have a limited service life, usually not exceeding 10-15 years. Then the processing must be repeated.

The tree is also significantly susceptible to biogenic influences:

• rotting caused by various kinds of fungi and algae;
• damage by insects - wood borers (various types of larvae, beetles and worms);
• damage by rodents (mice, rats).

Measures to combat these scourges are as ambiguous as treatment with fire retardants.

Main types of log material

The severity of the problems described above can largely be reduced at the stage of procurement of materials. The question of how to make a log house with your own hands is preceded by the question of what to make it from.

The options are as follows:

• log house made of natural logs;
• log house;
• log house made of factory-processed logs (rounded).

In turn, when deciding how to make a log house from timber, you have to make a choice between the usual construction timber(1), profiled timber (2) and laminated timber (3).

Beam: construction (1), profiled (2), laminated veneer (3).

From the point of view of convenience and manufacturability of work, timber is noticeably superior to ordinary (natural) logs. A rounded log is fundamentally no different from timber, except, perhaps, for higher expressiveness and originality of building design.

The first, framed crown, in the absence of a foundation, is laid on pads. They are placed under the lower logs of the casing at a distance of about half a meter from the corners of the future log house. Strictly in horizontal plane, with a deviation of the top edge from the horizontal by no more than 5 mm.

The bottom of the logs lying on the foundation is cut off by 3-5 cm, and a layer is laid between them and the foundation.

Having exposed the longitudinal logs, longitudinal grooves are cut into them, for next row logs and semicircular recesses - bowls in which the logs will fall, forming perpendicular wall. Then perpendicular logs are laid, in which longitudinal grooves and bowls are also selected. The first crown is ready.

Often, people who live in areas with commercially available round timber have the idea of ​​building a house on their own: especially since until recently almost all peasants possessed this wisdom, without knowing any literacy or mastering construction technology. Building a log house with your own hands is not a great science, but it still requires a deep understanding of the process and the ability to adapt old carpentry technologies to new conditions.

Materials and tools for building a log house

We immediately hasten to dissuade people who want to install a log house using modern power tools to save time. Unfortunately, the use of chainsaws and power planers is not recommended and should only be used for heavy-duty work. Wood treated with power tools is more susceptible to mold and rotting processes. For the construction of log houses, a special carpentry kit is used.
To work, in addition to axes, you will need a standard plane (as well as a Sherhebel plane for finishing work) and a scraper (for removing bark), there are also whole line additional carpentry tools for chopping into a cup. To cut out a longitudinal groove, an adze is used - an ax with a rounded blade and an inverted ax handle. When processing wood hand tools Wood pores are naturally clogged, and as a result, a hand-cut house will last much longer.

Carpenter's ax and its features: where to order and how to make

A house made of round timber is cut using several types of axes; professional woodcutters order axes for chopping houses to order from high-quality hardened steel. In the very simple version We recommend stocking up on an ax for rough cutting, which without the weight of the ax should weigh about 1.6 kg, have a sharpening angle of 25 degrees, for convenience, use an ax length of 60 cm. And the second ax is used for finishing cutting with more high accuracy, such a model will have a sharpening angle of 20 degrees, a weight of 0.9 kg and an ax handle up to 50 cm long.

Many artels in their work use a restoration and carpentry ax, which was restored and made on the basis of ancient samples by A.V. Popov. There are many modifications of it, which were made by Popov himself. Approximately up to 90% of carpentry work involving felling a log house can be performed with this tool. Popov's ax has a wedge-shaped shape; in fact, this ax is a half-splitting ax, since its tasks include not only chopping, but also removing wood chips during work. This requirement is achieved using a special tool shape.

A number of Russian forges produce high-quality axes for cutting log houses. One of the most interesting is ToporSib. In this artel you can purchase all necessary tool for cutting a log house in the form of ready-made kits.

Selection and preparation of logs for construction of a log house

To build a log house you will need round timber. The thickness of the frame is selected based on the availability of materials. Usually a house made of round timber is cut with your own hands from available and inexpensive materials. In Russian conditions we're talking about about pine round timber. There are 4 varieties of round timber available for sale; experts recommend the 2nd grade:

• 1st grade: butt part, without knots, used for high-quality woodwork;
• 2nd grade: assortment from the middle and butt part of the pine trunk, there is a small number of knots and cracks;
• 3rd grade: round timber with a large number of knots;
• Grade 4: wood with any defects except rot.

Pine for the construction of a log house is chosen for budgetary reasons; in addition, this wood is soft and pliable in processing, has a small number of knots, and does not require additional processing, the trunk runoff (difference in diameter) usually does not exceed 1 cm. Pine does not crack as much as spruce when processed, but is soft, so larch or oak is recommended for lower logs that are closer to the ground. In this case, the frame crown can be made of pine, but its diameter should be 5-7 cm larger than the main log. In some cases, a high foundation can save you from ground moisture.
To cut a log house, only fresh wood is used; ideally, the log house is cut in the forest, where the material can be selected, and then transported to the installation site. Fresh material should be stored for no more than 2 weeks; for storage at the construction site, rounds are stacked. For northern regions with temperatures reaching -40C in winter period, logs with a diameter of 21-24 cm are used for middle zone 15-18 cm is enough.

Project

When building a house, it is better to start with small forms of buildings, for example, building a gazebo or a log bathhouse with a recreation room and a bedroom. You can live in such a house before the construction of the main house, and then use it as a guest house. Usually timber is ordered maximum length, in this case, you can make accurate calculations based on the presence of windows, doors, partitions and select logs at the sawmill according to the required size.
To successfully and quickly build a house for yourself, it is better to join an artel that deals with wooden construction, at least for summer time. This will help you understand the main points manual cutting log cabins

Foundation work: in the past and now

Foundation under wooden frame made using tape technology or made of stone. The higher the foundation, the wood is better will be protected from ground moisture. A house made of round timber can be installed on a columnar or pile foundation. In the old days, the first rows of logs, the so-called mother crown, were installed on stone shafts; they were called ryazhe. This solution made it possible to raise the house above the ground and secure it firmly.

We cut a log house with our own hands

Before starting work, prepare additional accessories. First of all, the support for holding the logs, the fixation of the round timber is ensured by cut out wedges. Next you need to prepare the logs to size:

• when cutting a log house “in the paw”, the logs are prepared according to the design dimensions of the house;
• when cutting “into a bowl” it is 60 cm more.

Next, using a scraper, the bark is removed from the trees; you can bring the log to a smooth state with a plane, but since upper layer wood will be removed, you need to treat the log with an antiseptic solution or tar oil.

On next stage The cutting of the covering crown is carried out using the cutting of the log. On the one hand you have to get it perfectly flat surface, which will be in contact with the foundation. Next, the harness is built, the log house is made into a bowl with your own hands without much difficulty, other technologies require skill.
Here's a video of how to make a log house with your own hands:

The algorithm for cutting a longitudinal groove may be different, professional craftsmen they do it by hand. For beginners, a small graphical instruction will help.

The felling of a log house can be carried out in a bowl, as well as using a number of other methods, which are illustrated in the figure.

Please note that there is Russian and Canadian technology cuttings The Canadian method of cutting log houses is better designed for log shrinkage and guarantees better thermal insulation.

Conclusion

Cutting a log house with your own hands is a very realistic goal, as a result of which you will become the owner of a beautiful and warm home. Construction wooden house will cost you relatively little, since labor-intensive processes will be performed independently. The house will delight you with its appearance, as well as create a healthy atmosphere inside due to the aroma of pine resins. The key advantage of this construction technology is the fact that cutting wooden house possible at any time of the year. If you use high-quality old wood, such a house will last at least 100 years.

2016-02-24, 22:12

Tool Removing bark Laying out logs Initial markings Cutting feet Adjusting feet planes Log grooves

Cutting down a log house yourself is quite possible. Now we’ll find out all the details and see, and then the ax will be in your hands.

You won’t find this kind of material anywhere else on the Internet, since everywhere the cutting of a log house from first-class logs is shown, but it’s not easy for an inexperienced person to get first-class round timber, so we’ll cut from what God sent, without sacrificing quality.

At that time, God sent the forest felled by a hurricane, and there is no talk of the first grade. Nevertheless, we will make an excellent log house from it for a bathhouse.

If you get the first grade - great, make your work easier.

Tool

To make a log house you will need the following tools:

2. Hacksaw or chainsaw

3. Scherhebel plane or electric plane

4. Level 40 - 60 cm.

5. Metal ruler 40 - 60 cm.

6. Construction cord.

7. Template.

Learn more about the template, as it will need to be made. Pattern for a Canadian paw (dovetail). Here he is:

Template dimensions

A - width, taken relative to the crown (thin) part of the thinnest log. The width of the template is taken to be 4 centimeters narrower than this part. For example, if the thickness of the log is 20 cm, then the width of the template is 16 cm.

B - 3/4 of A

C and D - 2/4 from A

E - 1/4 of A

Removing the bark

First of all, remove the bark from the logs. From all. So that the log under the bark does not rot, and in warm weather, the bark beetle does not become active under it.

This operation is done with a shovel sharpened like this:

With the bark removed, logs can lie for a very long time, but if the expected storage period exceeds six months, it is necessary to ensure ventilation and cover the top of the pile with roofing material, or something similar.

Laying out logs

The work begins with laying out the logs. To do this, two stands with recesses are made, on which the log is given the position required for marking.

If the material is first grade, without noticeable bends, the log is laid out along the annual rings so that the part where tree rings thinner, it turned out later with outside log house

If the material is not of the first grade, then the log is laid out in accordance with the existing bends, which should be facing either upwards or towards the outside. Or in both these directions. Just don't go down and in.

Be careful. At first glance, the log may seem very straight, but a look along it will immediately reveal the curvature.

When laying out, we also determine the direction of laying the logs in the log house relative to the previous one. The butt part is placed on the crown part, and vice versa.

Initial marking

The logs are selected as follows: the first crown is the thickest, then thinner and towards the middle the thinnest. from the 7th crown it is thicker again, and the last pressure crown is thick.

For marking, the log is trimmed. Special devices for this purpose, no - it is done by eye, but the smoother the trimming is done, the less adjustment there will be and the likelihood of gaps in the corners.

The trim is done exactly to size, the same for all logs of the wall.

After trimming according to the level, we carry out horizontal line along the widest part of the end of the log (for the first grade this is the middle), mark its center, and from the center we take the width of the template.

We draw two lines along the width of the template, along the vertical level, thereby beginning to outline the cheeks of the paw.

Then along these lines we stretch a thread between the ends of the log, and along it we draw the longitudinal part of the cheeks, 25 - 30 cm long. Only all are the same.

As a result, the ends of the log will have the following markings:

Paw cutting

According to the markings, we cut out the cheeks of the paw.

We adjust the width of the cheeks exactly to the width of the template so that it fits tightly, but without strain. Until your hand is full, it is better to make them with a small margin, and then trim them with an ax to the desired size.

A chainsaw is used to cut out the cheeks when there are knots on them. If there are no knots, then the entire segment is cut down with an ax.

Let's move on to production seat paws. The first two logs have one seat - the top one.

We put the template on the paw in the middle and draw along the upper border. The narrow part of the template is located with outside walls.

From the edge of the border outlined according to the template, draw a line upward along the vertical level on both sides. The distance from the border to the top of the log, on the wide (inner) side, must be at least 5 centimeters.

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Then we draw out the edge of the seat, cut through the end, and cut down a segment of the log. It is important when cutting the end not to make a cut below the border of the template.

The paw is made in the same way at the opposite end of the log. Then, according to the same instructions, a second log is made, which in the log house will be parallel to the first.

Let's move on to the transverse logs of the first crown. Trimming, marking and cheeks for a transverse log are done in exactly the same way as for the first one. But the paw is a little different, since it is already complete, with two landing pads, upper and lower.

First, the lower platform of the paw is made. We measure approximately 5 cm from the bottom of the log, install and outline the template.

Why about 5 cm? Since the logs are not perfectly even, and the trimming will most likely not be perfect at first, the template will most likely move away from the plane, so it will need to be adjusted to the lower leg, and this adjustment can eat up another 1 - 2 cm.

As a result, we get the normal depth of the paw. The depth of the paw should be approximately 0.5 of the width of the groove, so if the average width of the groove is 12 - 14 cm, then the depth of the paw is normally 6 - 7 cm.

Don't forget that the narrow end of the template is on the outside. You don't have to draw the top edge yet. I have outlined it here to make it clearer for you.

Now we draw the inner edge of the paw using a level.

We turn the log over, and just like on the first log, we draw the edge and make a cut, and we cut out the paw in the same way, only if on the first log we made the top of the paw, now, on the transverse one, we make the bottom.

We are not touching the upper fit yet, since the lower one will still have to be adjusted.

After this, we take an electric planer and process the knot protrusions. If there are sharp bends or protrusions on the log, then we trim them too.

We just have to adjust the planes of the legs of the longitudinal and transverse logs, but how to do this, so as not to repeat ourselves, I will show you on the second log, which will already have a groove on it.

In the meantime, let’s install the transverse ones and draw out the entire structure along the diagonals and level. The level is taken from the bottom of the first logs.

Adjustment of paw planes

We have the top of the paw of the first log and the bottom of the paw of the first transverse log ready. Now we need to adjust these planes.

First of all, we draw the vertical. This is done using a level and a wedge.

Having positioned the log in this way, we look at the gap, determine and mark out the places on the paw that need to be cut so that there is no gap and the log lies strictly vertically.

After fitting, we measure the resulting depth of the lower plane of the paw, and using this size we draw according to the template and cut out the upper plane. This way the paw will be located exactly in the middle of the log.

Now we prepare the log three times. It will be longitudinal, with a groove, and all subsequent logs will be made according to the same instructions.

We position the log as mentioned above, cut out the cheeks and cut out the bottom of the paw to a depth of about 5 cm, process the knots and protrusions with a plane and install them on the previous one.

We set the vertical using a wedge, and look at the gap between the logs.

One of the most important advantages of a log house is its ability to retain heat well, which helps save on heating costs during the cold season. However, the energy efficiency of a wooden house largely depends on the assembly technology of the log house. Chopping into a bowl is the best option, since in such houses the corners do not freeze or become damp.

A log house made “in a bowl” can be erected with your own hands if you have carpentry skills and suitable tool. If this is your first experience in building a log house, it is important to work carefully, carefully marking and adjusting each log. This will require a lot of time and effort, but the result will please you for many years.

Features of pairing “in the bowl”

A semicircular recess is cut out on the surface of the log for the element of the next crown of the perpendicular side. When assembling a log house, the crowns are wedged together and, after shrinking, form robust construction, windproof due to its configuration (the protruding part of the log should be 25-30 cm to the edge of the bowl) and the use of insulation.

Such corners do not freeze, which reduces heat loss in the house, and there is no condensation that provokes the development of fungus on the wood. In Canada and Norway, cutting a log house using the “bowl with a tenon” technology is popular - this is an even stronger connection, but it is much more difficult to do it yourself without experience in such work.

DIY construction tools

The log manufacturing technology requires the use of the following tools:

• hand, electric or gasoline saw;
• a carpenter's ax with a well-sharpened blade;
• hammer;
• wood chisels;
• features of a carpenter's tool (a special tool for marking logs) or standard marking devices;
• building level;
• sharp nail or permanent chemical pencil, construction marker.

You will also need to use charcoal to blacken the recesses when fitting the crowns, and an antiseptic composition to treat the cut bowls to prevent damage to the wood by rot and pests. It is more convenient to use high-quality insulation as insulation. tape material from natural fibers.

Preparatory stage

On preparatory stage cutting technology is selected. Traditionally used:

• cutting “into the oblo” - a bowl is cut out in the lower log;
• cutting “into the hole” - a bowl is cut out in the top log.

Non-professionals who decide to assemble a log house with their own hands are recommended to choose the second option, in which the crowns are laid with the bowls down. Since the work will progress relatively slowly, there is a high risk that the log house will be completed before finishing, final assembly, will get caught in the rain - if the bowls are cut out in the lower logs, moisture will get into them, which will cause the wood to rot.

Construction requires high-quality timber, preferably winter felling. For a beginner, it is easier to make a frame into a bowl from rounded wood - the geometric precision of the elements simplifies the marking of the bowls and the adjustment of the links.

Marking

In the question of how to cut a log house Special attention is given to correct markings. Professionals use a special tool - a “dash”, which consists of a handle and two rigid plates with pointed ends, the distance between which can be changed. “Dash” allows you to draw two lines in parallel, making markings during construction with your own hands.

In order to mark, lay two logs on the ground strictly parallel to each other. It is important that the edge of the third, transverse link, laid crosswise, is positioned so that the distance from the end to the bowl is at least 25 cm. Check the placement of all logs of the future crown. To prevent the log from spinning or moving when marking, it is secured with a bracket.

If the bowl will be cut in the upper log, the “dash” plates are moved apart so that the distance between their tips is half the diameter of the lower log (this is important if construction is carried out from non-rounded logs).

When marking, one plate of the tool must always rest on the upper log, the second on the lower one. To mark the contour of the bowl, the leg of the “line” must move, touching the arc of the lower log, while the second one will draw a parallel line on the upper log - the contour of the future bowl. A semicircular groove should be marked and selected along the log so that the crowns fit snugly against each other and are not blown through.

If the bowl will be cut into a lower log, one leg of the tool should outline the bottom of the upper log, and the other should draw a line along the surface of the lower wall element. The distance between the legs should correspond to half the diameter of the top log.

To quickly mark with a “line” according to a template, you need to have skill. If it is not there, then when assembling a log house with your own hands, it is easier to use traditional tools and mark each joint individually.

During the work, do not forget to number the fitted crowns, using a sharp nail or indelible pencil, as for marking. Numbering each whip will further simplify the final assembly of the log house.

Cutting grooves and bowls

When a bowl frame is made to order in production, longitudinal grooves and bowls are cut with special cutters using high-precision equipment. When working with your own hands, such accuracy cannot be achieved, but relatively small errors are subsequently compensated for by using a seal.

If you are confident in your use of petrol or electric saw, the main sampling of wood can be done with this tool. Beginning craftsmen are recommended to use hand saw. A cleaver or carpenter's ax is used to rough cut out the bowl, and then the recess is finished with a chisel.

If it is difficult for you to understand how to cut a log house with precise joints, to simplify the task, use charcoal to blacken the bowl when fitting it to the log. By examining the log, you can determine how much material and in what places remains to be selected.

The frame is roughly assembled into a bowl on the ground, and when adjusting the links, the horizontal position of each crown is checked building level. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the lower logs are horizontal, using backing boards of suitable thickness if necessary.

When working with one diameter, you can make a template from durable sheet metal that imitates the top log when cutting out the bowl in the bottom one - in this case, you won’t have to repeatedly lift the logs when adjusting the elements.

The cutting of the log into the bowl ends when the rough frame of the building is completely assembled. Next, the numbered log house is disassembled and re-assembled with your own hands using a heat insulator already on the harness laid on the foundation.

After disassembling the rough frame, each bowl and groove must be coated with an antiseptic. Processing is performed twice with a break for complete drying wood surface.

The technology for assembling a log house involves the use of natural materials - jute or flax fiber, moss. These are gas-permeable materials with a good elastic modulus; they remove moisture, preventing the formation of condensation and the formation of areas of wood rotting.

If, when removing a groove or bowl, too much material was removed, additional layers of insulation will help correct the situation. When assembling the frame into a bowl with the sealant laid, do not forget to check the horizontalness of the crowns and correct it using the sealant.

Before you start building a wooden house or bathhouse with your own hands, you need to carefully understand how to cut a log house from a log.

Making a log frame is a difficult but fascinating process. This guide to building a log house will give full information and will answer most questions that may arise during work. Here you can find a point-by-point analysis of all stages of construction, nuances and little tricks. The instructions will tell you what tools you will need and introduce you to the terminology of carpenters.

Preparatory work

What tools should you get to build a log house with your own hands?

1. Carpenter's axe. It should be comfortable, not too heavy, but not light either.
2. Square.
3. Chisel.
4. Roulette.
5. Marker or simple pencil.
6. Plumb.
7. Hacksaw.
8. Brace.
9. Shovel.
10. Non-stretch cord.
11. Level.
12. Trait – special marking tool, looks like a compass.
13. “Baba” is a birch block with two brackets on the sides, used as a spacer.
14. A chainsaw is not necessary, but it will significantly ease the work and time costs.

Carpenters use specific expressions in construction - professional language. Basic carpenter terminology:

1. A log house is a building made of logs, without floors and a roof, the basic part of the house, its height depends on the number of crowns.
2. The crown is a part in a log house, consisting of logs that form a square or rectangle. At the corners they are connected by “locks”. The crown is divided into 3 types: window sill, window, over-window. From the name it is clear where they are located.
3. The frame crown is the first crown of the log house. Protects the bottom trim from rotting.
4. The lower trim is the second crown in the log house, which is the main one. Logs are installed in it.
5. Logs are load-bearing for the floor. They strengthen the lower harness.
6. The trailing crown is the first crown above the window.
7. The top trim is a structure that serves as the basis for the roof. It consists of rafters and upper supports.
8. The butt is the part of the trunk in a log house that is located at the bottom of the tree. The part opposite to it is called the vertex.

The classic form is a log house made of round timber. This is lining logs at height. A log house made of round timber requires great professionalism; it is easier to process a log house on the ground, and use scaffolding to install it in the right place. The scaffolding needs to be made strong and comfortable. Working with a log house is dangerous, so do not neglect safety rules. In this instruction we will use the cutting method followed by re-arranging. It is much safer and more convenient, no need to work at height. Its only drawback is the increase in construction time. The structure of the log house will be carried out in stages and parts: base, middle and upper part.

You need to understand that there are no ideal logs. They change their diameter along the entire length of the trunk. Therefore, it is necessary to change the tops and butts. When making an edging, one crown will fit better against the other. The edge of the deck is trimmed on one side and the other - the result is a plane.

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“Dovetail” and “claw” – the basic part of the lock

One of the first actions to take is logging.

Depending on the size, width, length and height, you will need different quantities logs

Dovetail connection diagram.

Mainly used pine, spruce and others conifers. Birch should never be used; it will rot quickly and is very difficult to process. After selecting the forest, you need to get rid of the bark and dry the forest.

It is necessary to select the place where construction will take place, taking into account that it should be sufficient for all parts of the building. It is necessary to mark using a non-stretch cord.

Then you need to make a non-permanent foundation - linings. Their dimensions are 1 m long and 1/3 m in diameter. We install them near the corners of the building, which will ensure the most uniform load on them. The linings must be installed level, with an error of up to 5 cm.

The next stage is making the edging. To do this, you need to choose where the future edging will be. This side should be placed up and the log should be secured with staples. Using a plumb line, we draw vertical lines, which will become the edges of the edging. Using awls, you need to pull the cord from one edge of the log to the other. This way the edge of the edging will be drawn. After that, you need to secure the log with the future edging up and, having made cuts, begin to cut the log, getting an edging. Then you need to mark the edge on the opposite side of the log and make another edge in the same way. An alternative to cuts can be cuts made with a chainsaw.

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The process of making a log house

We take a log for the frame crown and make an edging, approximately 10 cm wide. The edging will lie on the linings. Next, we will cut down “blocks” 60-75% of the log thickness, the length of which will be constantly the same and will not exceed the maximum diameter of the log. We put a point at the end of the block and from it we draw a “paw” line with an extension into the house. After that, we place the “blocks” on the “legs” of the transverse log purlins, secure the structure with brackets and check whether the size of the round timber frame has not been violated.

Connection diagram “paw with socket”.

And only after re-checking do we finally secure it with staples. Then we transfer the connecting lines to the upper log from the lower one. This must be done while maintaining parallelism. During runs, you need to cut out the middle block using the same principle of transferring lines.

Next in line “ bottom harness" “Doodles” are made on logs of this binding. It is necessary to make sure that the upper purlins are flat; using a lining and a level, we ensure that they are horizontal. The error should not exceed 3 cm.

The next step will be cutting out the groove. To do this, we make notches across the groove, crosswise, using an ax. We make a notch along the groove with an ax, resulting in a groove. We cut out the “paws” according to the pattern described above and lay the log on the base. We check the tightness of the fit, if necessary, remove and finish. When the log house is the right size, spread the tow evenly on the bottom log and mount the log on top. We make and install 3 transverse logs into the lower logs and make logs. We install the logs using a “woman”.

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Installation of the 1st window sill

Let's start by marking the doorway. Using a dowel, we secure the logs, having previously applied markings. Using a chisel, select a pocket for the dowel, going 1 cm deeper than the dowel itself. It is necessary to check the verticality of the corners using plumb lines. The finishing sill log should be placed on 2 dowels and no tow should be placed under it. When translating, it is necessary to maintain the equivalence of the diagonals.

We carry out installation of window crowns. Height window openings from 110 to 130 cm. We fasten the “short ones” of window crowns with dowels. We do the work by analogy. In order not to get confused when shifting, you need to draw a line at the corner of the log house.

We make the “cap” of the log house. We remove the upper crown crown and begin to manufacture top harness. The design includes two purlins and rafters. At the end of the runs we make blockheads, in the middle we need to make cheeks instead of blockheads. Using shims and staples, you need to ensure that the top of these purlins is horizontal. Transverse purlins should be installed; those in the middle should be equipped with “ swallowtail”, others - “paw”.

We make rafters. We take logs with a thickness of at least 15 cm and cut off 2 edges on each (they must be parallel), except for one. We cut the raw rafter into the deck using of this mount, as a result, its top should be horizontal. We cut the rafters into the upper purlin, but not more than 25% of the diameter of the log. You should hook the cord along the edges of the last rafters and align all the others. Using a chisel, make pockets for the rafter legs.

Manufacturing of rafters. Special precision is needed here; the strength of the roof depends on the rafters. The length of the rafters also depends on the angle of the roof. Presence is not allowed large quantity knots in the rafters. We cut out a tenon at the base of the rafters and stack them in pairs. We adjust the spikes and pockets. We begin relaying the rafters, while we must remember about the padding.