There are a great variety of fastening systems and frame structures. We will talk about such a material for the frame as a metal profile for walls. First you need to figure out what it is and decide on its purpose.

Metal profile is essential the new kind building material, intended for installation of lathing when finishing walls, ceilings, roofs, etc. It looks like a chromed metal strip with curved edges and may have different size and thickness. IN construction stores As a rule, profiles with a length of 2 m and a metal wall thickness of 0.4 mm are sold. The shapes of the profiles are also very varied, and each shape is designed to perform a specific task.

Application of metal profile

IN modern construction very often designs are used that use a variety of different types frames:

• wooden;
• metal;
• combined.

The use of frames is quite diverse. They are used to create a wide range of construction projects.

Covering walls with plasterboard, covering a house with siding - these are just a few examples of using the profile.

The metal frame has a significant advantage over other types of frames, as it has a number of advantages:

• reliable;
• strong;
• does not corrode or rust;
• easy to install;
• does not require pre-treatment.

To create a basic plasterboard structure, you don’t need to use a lot of materials - you just need a profile, sheets of plasterboard and self-tapping screws. That is why this type of finishing has become so popular. The costs of its implementation are insignificant, and the result obtained is excellent.

Separately, it is worth noting the self-tapping screws, since their choice is no less important. The length, shape, type and quantity must clearly correspond to the material of the profile and the wall to which the profile will be attached.

Installation of metal profile

Before starting work, you need to have a clear picture of the future construction. This is necessary to correctly select materials and auxiliary elements. Calculate the consumption of gypsum, calculate the necessary screws, determine the number of profiles - here the main task when calculating a construction project.

Preparatory work before starting creation metal frame not required. The fastening scheme levels out all the unevenness of the wall, and they will not affect the final surface. So, how to attach the profile to the wall? Doing this task yourself is not that difficult. Let's consider this issue using the example of creating lathing for plasterboard cladding and its subsequent use.

First you need to pick everything up necessary tools and materials:

• level;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• grinder or metal scissors;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• Screwdriver Set;
• plumb line;
• drywall;
• putty;
• set of spatulas.

Installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands should begin with measuring the wall and choosing the step width, i.e. create schematic diagram future design. The first profile is attached in the corner, carefully measured and verified using a plumb line and level. The metal profile itself is fastened to self-tapping screws through U-shaped elements. After fixing the first profile at the distance of the selected step, the second one is installed, the principle of operation is similar, the only feature is the need to compare with the first. Otherwise, if these measures are not followed, the wall may end up crooked or tilted to one side. Figured elements of wall cladding (shelves, rounded corners, etc.) must also be clearly compared with the rest of the structure.

Installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands must begin directly by screwing the gypsum sheets to the frame. To do this, metal self-tapping screws are used, which fix the sheet directly to the profile using a screwdriver. The next step is the process of puttying the seams and joints. This is necessary to complete and final level the wall. The surface must dry completely, and after that it is ready for further use. For example, for laying tiles or applying decorative plaster There can be a great many options.

IN modern realities The issue of room insulation is very relevant. Prices for energy use are rising, which forces ordinary citizens to insulate their homes. Creation plasterboard structures will help in this matter too, because the voids formed between the drywall and the wall can be filled with any type of insulation. By performing these actions, two pressing issues can be solved at once: transform appearance room or facade and insulate it. The completed frame, ready for cladding, is shown in the photo.

In conclusion on the topic

Plasterboard systems, ventilated building facade, suspended structures— for all these solutions it is necessary to create a sheathing for a metal profile or a frame. Wooden base for its structure is not always possible; in this situation, a metal profile comes to the rescue. With its help they line up extremely complex structures, which ultimately transform the appearance of the designed structure.

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One of the most inexpensive, durable, practical options roofing material- or, as they also say, a profiled sheet, a metal profile. This is a sheet of metal that is covered with several protective layers, and then passed through molding machine, which presses protrusions and grooves into it to give greater rigidity. The material turns out to be quite light; a roof made of corrugated sheets can be installed independently and even “with one hand.” The technology is not the most complicated, it is quite possible to do it yourself.

Types of corrugated sheets

There are different types of corrugated sheets. There is a regular profiled sheet - galvanized, and there is a colored one - with a layer of polymer applied over the zinc coating. U polymer coating The role is double - it both protects from external influences and gives the material a more decorative appearance. Simple galvanized corrugated sheeting is used as a roofing material mainly on temporary buildings, colored sheeting has a quite solid appearance, it can be seen on roofs residential buildings and courtyard buildings.

By purpose

Corrugated sheets are made from sheet metal different thicknesses. The thinnest ones are intended for decorating walls, but can be laid on the roof with frequent lathing and light snow loads. The sheets of this group are marked with the letter “C”.

The thickest metal is used to make material with increased load-bearing capacity. It is marked with the letter “N” and is used as a roofing material in areas with high wind or snow load. There is also a universal profiled sheet - it is designated “NS”. Can be used both for walls and for roofing (the amount of snow should be average).

After the letter coding of the profiled sheet there are numbers: C8, H35, NS20. They indicate the wave height in millimeters that is formed in a given material. In the example, these are 8 mm, 35 mm, 20 mm, respectively. Corrugated sheeting with a wave height of at least 20 mm is laid on the roof.

The wave shape of the supporting metal profile is often more complex - additional grooves are added to it to increase rigidity.

By type of coverage

Despite all the external similarities, the price of corrugated sheeting of the same type can differ significantly. The point, most often, is not the arrogance of the manufacturer or seller, but the different technologies and materials used in production. For example, protective covering Can be zinc or aluminum-zinc. The second type of protection has appeared recently; the equipment is expensive, but the durability of metal coated with aluminum-zinc is much higher.

The durability of the coating is also affected by the method of wave formation. There are two technologies - cold rolling and emulsion. During cold rolling, the sheet is simply pressed through rollers without any preparation. To avoid damaging the previously applied coating, expensive equipment is required. Accordingly, cold rolled corrugated sheets are more expensive.

When forming a wave with an emulsion, the metal surface is moistened with a liquid (oil, water, special liquid) and then sent under rolls. If, after rolling, such a sheet is not dried, but sent to a kiln to fix the paint, then the places that were wet will quickly begin to rust. It is impossible to see this defect in advance; you have to hope that the technology is not broken. But profiled sheets made using this technology are cheaper.

There are also different polymer coatings. They create films of different thicknesses and densities, with different properties.

• Polyester (glossy and matte). Profiled sheets coated with polyester have a relatively low price (the cheapest of the colored ones) and good characteristics - the coating is plastic and does not change its color for a long time. Matte polyester has no glare on the surface, it looks like velvety. This is achieved using a different application technique and a thicker layer. This coating is the most resistant to mechanical damage.
• Plastisol. It has increased resistance to aggressive environments, but does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation. A roof made of corrugated sheets coated with plastisol will quickly fade (two to three years).
• Pural - polyamide and acrylic are added to polyurethane. The coating is more uniform, and the service life without changing color is ten years. The disadvantage is the high price.
• PVDF is a composition of polyvinyl fluoride and acrylic. The coating is expensive, but lasts a long time even in aggressive environment. This roofing material can be used on sea coasts. Another great property is that it can clean itself. The slightest rain, and the roof made of corrugated sheets with PVDF coating shines like new.

Under normal conditions, the roof is made of corrugated sheets coated with polyester. In terms of price-quality ratio, it is optimal.

How to lay corrugated sheets on a roof

The corrugated roofing is laid on a finished sheathing of boards, in which the fragments are located parallel to the roof overhang. The sheathing installation step is up to 60 cm. They usually use an inch edged board, 25 mm thick. The sheets are laid one after another with vertical overlap in one wave. When laying corrugated sheets on the roof, please note that the outermost shelves have different lengths. The one that is a little shorter should be on the bottom, the one that is a little longer should cover the short one. In this case, they adjoin one another tightly, without a gap. If you mix it up and do the opposite, a gap of several millimeters will form between the two shelves, into which water will flow. Therefore, be careful when installing.

About the amount of horizontal overlap. If there are more than one rows of corrugated sheets on the roof, the sheets are laid with overlap. The amount by which the top sheet overlaps the bottom sheet depends on the angle of the roof slope: the flatter the roof, the more approach is needed.

Most factories that produce corrugated sheeting can offer you to produce sheets that will cover your entire roof - from the ridge to the overhang - in one long leaf (maximum length 12 meters). This creates certain difficulties during installation - such sheets are difficult to lift and lay. It will especially take a long time to expose the first sheet - it must be placed strictly vertically, which is a difficult task at altitude. But the main advantage of this solution is a continuous coating from top to bottom, which significantly increases the degree of protection of the attic space from moisture penetration, negating all the inconveniences. After all, there are no horizontal joints, which means there are no problems with wicking either.

How to properly attach corrugated sheeting to the roof

To fasten the profiled sheet, use special screws with rubber gaskets under the hats. They ensure the tightness of the connection. Such self-tapping screws are usually painted the same tone as the roofing material. Number of fasteners per square meter- 5-7 pieces (do not forget to add about 20% for fastening the ridge element, securing joints and other similar work).

Install self-tapping screws into the bottom flange, where the sheet comes into contact with the sheathing. Their length is 20-25 mm, depending on the thickness of the sheathing board, since it is important that the sharp end of the screw does not protrude from reverse side boards. There will be a waterproofing film there that may be damaged.

When connecting two adjacent sheets, they are also fastened with self-tapping screws. But in this case, you have to screw the fasteners into the wave and also pierce the double layer of metal. For these purposes, the fasteners are longer - 40 mm or more (depending on the height of the wave) - the screw must go into the sheathing board.

What to cut

It is very rare that corrugated sheeting is installed on a roof without trimming - these are simply unique cases. How to cut profiled sheets? Metal scissors or jigsaw. Yes, it’s slow and not entirely convenient, but that’s what the manufacturers advise. You cannot use an angle grinder (grinder) - when cutting with it, the sheet heats up to very high temperatures at the cut site. high temperatures, which leads to the evaporation of zinc. As a result, in this place, the material quickly begins to rust.

Installation procedure

After collection rafter system They nail the front board, hooks are attached to it for installation, and on top there is a special strip - a drip edge, onto which the edge of the waterproofing film is then placed. Both the dropper and the film are attached to it with self-tapping screws with a sealing rubber washer.

The composition of the pie of materials for corrugated sheets depends on whether you are going to attic space make it cold or warm. If the attic is cold, the sequence of actions is as follows:

If you insulate the roof, the order of work and the amount of materials required will change. There will be more layers:

Corrugated roofing: components

Even when installing a conventional gable roof, there are several difficult sections that usually form at the junction of different planes and/or parts of the system. These areas are usually called “nodes”. We examined one such unit in the previous paragraph - the design of the front board and the fastening of gutters. But this is far from the only node where detailed explanation is required.

Installation and sealing of the ridge

The under-roof space under the corrugated sheeting must be well ventilated. This material heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly, which promotes the formation of condensation. Therefore, when installing a metal profile on the roof, in the upper part the sheets on both sides are not joined tightly, but leave a gap of several centimeters - so that the air can freely escape, taking with it water vapor.

If there are special skates with ventilation (pictured), but even if you just install a regular one ridge element, between the corrugated sheet and its edge, it turns out a large number of holes - in each depression of the corrugation. The size of this gap depends on the height of the wave - the higher the wave, the larger the gaps are. On the overhang, where the front board is nailed, there are also similar holes. Air movement usually goes from bottom to top - from the overhang, through the under-roof space (for this, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps, which are formed by the sheathing), to the cracks in the ridge. This is how ventilation and moisture regulation of the insulation occurs, condensation evaporates and is carried away.

Large gaps are good for ventilation, but when it rains/snows with the wind, precipitation clogs them, and dust and leaves get into the attic through them. It is much worse if the holes become clogged with leaves - ventilation will immediately deteriorate. To avoid getting caught similar situation, previously approximately 2/3 of the gap height was filled with sealant, applying it in layers to the roofing material. Crawling back and forth with sealant on the top of the roof, waiting for the previous layer to polymerize a little, is not very convenient. This solution is also incorrect from the point of view of ventilation - the gap decreases and air movement worsens. But there was no other solution. Now it is there - a sealant for corrugated sheets. It is made from polyurethane foam, polyethylene or wood composite. The structure of these materials is porous and allows air to pass through well, but not dust, water or leaves. In shape it either repeats the shape of the corrugation - there is a different types profiled sheet, and also have universal tape, which is simply pressed in the right places.

The seal “sits” on sealant, double-sided tape, glue, there are options with self-adhesive tape. With this compaction, air passes freely, and precipitation remains in the outer layers, from where it later evaporates.

Finishing the overhang with corrugated sheets

In order to cover the overhang with corrugated sheets, a special profile is attached to the front board. A profiled sheet cut into strips is inserted into its groove required width. The second edge of the hem is attached to a board nailed to the ends of the rafters. The joint between the filing and the board is closed with two droppers - one is nailed from below, covering the lower half of the board, and the second - from above. The edge of the waterproofing film is then placed on it.

If a drainage system is to be attached, then the hooks for the gutters are nailed after installing the lower drip line. The top dropper is nailed after installing all the hooks.

Connecting corrugated sheeting to the wall

In some cases, a roof made of metal profiles is adjacent to the wall of a structure. How to make a connection so that there are no leaks? There are two options (see picture). Both use a corner strip, only it has a different size and a different profile.

You can take corner strip with shelf dimensions 150*200 mm. A shorter side is placed on the wall, a longer side is placed on the roof. They are attached to the wall using fasteners depending on the material from which it is made (nails or self-tapping screws if it is wood, dowels if it is brick and building blocks). The joint between the planks and the wall is silicone sealant. From the roof side, the plank is attached to the crest of the wave, installing special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. Their length is determined in the same way as when connecting adjacent sheets of corrugated sheets (wave height + 20 mm for entering the sheathing board).

The second option is more labor-intensive: a groove (groove) is made in the wall, into which a corner strip with shelves bent at 45° is inserted. The fastening in this case is similar, the difference is in the size of the bar - it can be 100*100 mm or so.

Pipe passage

Many questions arise when sealing the passage of a chimney pipe or ventilation through a corrugated roof. The cross-section of pipes is round and rectangular; each type has its own solution.

To pass round pipes There are special steel or polymer aprons through the roofing material. Their upper part is made in the form of a cone, the lower part - the skirt - is made of elastic material that can take a given shape. The apron is placed tightly on the pipe and lowered so that the “skirt” rests on the roofing material. Next, you need to give the elastic skirt a corrugated shape. Use a hammer for this (regular or rubber - depends on the type of apron). To prevent water from flowing under the skirt, coat the joint with sealant and press it well.

After securing the skirt, fix the neckline. If the apron is metal, cover the top with a clamp, tighten it, and coat the joint with sealant. When using a polymer apron (master flush), it is put on the pipe with considerable effort (sometimes you even need to lubricate the pipe with soapy water), but the joint, nevertheless, is sealed with sealant for reliability.

With a rectangular (brick) pipe, everything is somewhat more complicated. Elements are cut out of metal sheets to cover the joint with the roofing pie.

How to cover a roof with a metal profile? The technology by which profiled sheets are laid on the roof is not very complicated. The only thing required for this is to know necessary features and rules for working with this material. It is not difficult to fix corrugated sheets yourself, regardless of the type and configuration of the roof.

A do-it-yourself metal profile roof, as already noted, is installed in compliance with necessary technology and basic rules. Let's look at them.

First you need to make a high-quality sheathing, which will be durable and reliable, and on which it will be laid.

Your attention! If the roof is gable, then the installation of the roof begins from the end, if it is hip, then from the center of the hip. You also need to pull the cord along the cornice along which the metal profile will be aligned. By the way, it is better not to align the flooring along the end of the slope.

The metal profile on the roof should be fastened in the area of ​​the ridge to the bottom of the sheathing every second wave. If fastening occurs at the end edge, then fastening is carried out along the bottom of the profile into each block located horizontally.

The middle then needs to be fixed using self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern. For reliable fastening, you need to screw in 4-5 self-tapping screws per square meter.

It should be noted that the metal profile is attached only to the part of the wave located below, unlike slate.

A profile sheet for a roof with long slopes is made using the method of building up sheets, which have an overlap of about 20 cm. The sheets are fastened simultaneously by nailing them to the sheathing on each wave.

There are two methods that are most often used to make multi-row laying of corrugated sheet flooring:

• First you need to make a block of four profiled sheets. To do this, you need to lay the first sheet on the bottom row. Another sheet is attached to it on top, which will be the first in the second row. Another sheet is fixed on the bottom row, and the same is done in the top row. Thus, there are four sheets on the roof. Then, next to it, using an overlap, another similar block is installed, and so on until the entire installation is completed. This method is most often used to install a roof made of metal profiles that have a drainage or drainage groove.
• How to do it another way? A block is constructed consisting of three sheets, which are stacked as follows: the first row is made of two sheets, which are stacked and connected to each other. Then another sheet is attached to them, which is the first in the second row. After this, the block is aligned parallel to the cornice and secured. Next to it, another block is attached with an overlap, and so on until the very end. This method is used for fastening profiled sheets that do not have a drainage groove, since all sheets in the first row are covered with sheets of the next row.

Roof slope

How to cover a roof with a metal profile

When installing roofs from corrugated sheets, you need to know the answer not only to the question of how to cover a roof with a metal profile, but also what angle of inclination the roof has.

If the roof has a slope of less than 14 degrees, then adjacent sheets should be laid with an overlap of no less than 20 cm. By increasing the angle to 15-30 degrees, the amount of overlap can be reduced to 15-20 cm.

If the slope of the roof made of corrugated sheets exceeds 30 degrees with your own hands, it is allowed to make an overlap of 10-15 cm. If you have any flat roof, the angle of inclination of which is less than 12 cm, then additional sealing of horizontal and vertical overlaps using silicone sealant will be required.

Directly fastening

Roof covering with metal profiles

It is best to attach profiled sheets using special roofing screws to structures made of wood. At the end of such self-tapping screws there is a drill along with a polymer spacer. It is desirable that the self-tapping screw has a size of 4.8 by 35 mm.

In order to secure the ridge, you will need self-tapping screws with a length of 80 mm. When installing such sheets, you should not forget to perform vapor and waterproofing, as well as provide a gap so that the space located under the roof can be ventilated.

It is worth noting that with constant heavy rainfall, damage to the roof can occur if it was not laid correctly initially. To avoid this and not have to deal with constant repairs, you need to immediately answer the question of how to properly cover the roof with a metal profile.

Let's talk about why metal profiles are used for roofing. This material is made from steel sheets, which are coated with polymer and galvanized coating for protection.

The profiles acquire the required rigidity after rolling, carried out at different heights and configurations. It is noted that corrugated sheeting is much stronger than analog wall materials.

The material is able to resist different loads due to the presence of additional stiffeners. The profile height can be higher than 20 mm. In order for the job to be done correctly and quickly, several points need to be done.

So, how to cover a roof with a metal profile? A few rules.

• The slope of the roof has already been discussed earlier. It must be measured very carefully, since this will determine how strong the structure will be, as well as whether there will be an unpleasant outcome.
• Then you need to calculate how many sheets are needed. You also need to decide whether you will need separate plates. Only after everything has been taken into account will it be possible to begin preparing the material for work.
• After this you need to select the sheets required length. It is advisable that they be the same length as the slope, so that they do not have to extra work. It must be remembered that the length of the flooring should be 4 cm longer than the length of the cornice.
• Before starting installation, you need to check how flat roof. After this, the roof is covered with a layer of waterproofing, which will help the roof to serve without leaks for a long time.
• The next stage is to lay out the slats, thanks to which air circulation will be achieved between the waterproofing and the corrugated sheet. This will also help protect the material from rotting and mold.

It is worth noting that roof profile iron is a very slippery material, so you need to be very careful when working with it at height.

Now you should have no questions about how to cover the roof. The main thing to remember is that in this matter you need to think through every step in advance and complete all the above points.

Otherwise, you will have to deal with roof repairs quite often or shell out for a new roof.

When designing a residential building, there comes a time when you need to make a choice roofing. The decision-making is influenced by such factors as: cost of material, strength, reliability, complexity of installation and guarantee period to aesthetic and specifications. The use of metal profiles as roofing is a kind of golden mean from the whole variety of materials offered. Low cost and excellent performance characteristics make metal profile roofing one of the most affordable and rational decisions. We will talk about how to cover a roof with a metal profile in this article.

Previously, metal profiles were used in the construction of fences and self-supporting structures, but the affordable cost and technical characteristics, similar to metal tiles, made it very good choice for the roof.

Characteristics of metal profiles

Key positive factors when using metal roofing:

• small specific gravity;
• increased safety due to fire resistance;
• corrosion resistance due to polymer and oxide coating;
• wide coverage color range;
• mechanical strength;
• range of sizes;
• affordable price.

Metal profiles are produced with a thickness of 0.4 to 1.0 mm from galvanized steel with or without polymer coating.

Three marking options are used depending on its purpose:

If the length of the roof slope requires the installation of sheets in several rows, then before attaching the metal profile to the roof, it is necessary to determine the overlap of the sheets.

The horizontal overlap is made on the sheathing and depends on the angle of inclination of the roof slope:

• with a roof slope angle of 12-15°, the minimum required overlap is 200 mm;
• with a tilt of 15-30°, the overlap limits are 150-200 mm;
• in the case where the slope of the roof slope is more than 30°, the overlap can be 100-150 mm;
• If the roof slope angle is less than 12°, the vertical and horizontal overlaps should be sealed using silicone or thiokol sealant.

The vertical overlap is made in half a wave for steeper roofs, one wave and two waves for flatter roofs (the recommended overlap must be checked with the manufacturer).

Preliminary work before installing the metal profile

Before attaching the metal profile to the sheathing, it is necessary to make all calculations for the required amount of material, taking into account the length of the eaves overhang, which exceeds the length of the roof slope by 40 mm.

Cutting of the material is carried out using tin shears, mechanical cutting shears, a fine-toothed hacksaw, electric jigsaw and a carbide circular saw.

The use of an abrasive tool (for example, a grinder) is strictly prohibited! Tin shears are only suitable for longitudinal cutting of profiles. If you start cutting across the metal with them, its deformation and difficulties with further installation are inevitable!

Before covering the roof with a metal profile, you need to use a lining to take care of protection from moisture and thermal insulation. For this purpose they use waterproofing film or membrane. The lining is attached to the rafters with brackets, with a slight sag of about 20 mm and a recommended overlap of 100-150 mm. It is also necessary to make a sufficient gap of 20-30 mm between the waterproofing and insulation. To fix the gasket, use a counter rail 40-50 mm wide.

Installing a roof on a roof

Before covering the roof with a metal profile, it is necessary to raise it using logs. It is necessary that three people participate in this process. The rise to the top is carried out one module at a time.

In windy weather installation work should be stopped due to the large “windage” of the profile!

Installation of metal profiles on the roof begins from the end of the roof. If a metal profile is being laid on a roof with a drainage groove, then it is necessary that the next profile sheet to be laid overlaps the groove of the previous one.

The profile sheets are mounted perpendicular to the cornice. The first sheet deserves special attention - the accuracy of the location of the entire roof as a whole depends on its correct installation.

On gable roofs installation begins from the right or left end, on hip roofs– laying is done from the middle of the hip. To control the horizontality of the roof slopes, a cord is pulled along the eaves, with the help of which the lower edges of the metal profile sheets are aligned.

Instructions for installing a metal profile may conditionally consist of the following operations:

Metal profile sheets at the ridge and overhang are attached to the sheathing through the bottom of the wave with 4.8x38 mm self-tapping screws in every second wave, at the end edges into each sheath along the bottom of the sheet. In the middle, fastening occurs in a checkerboard pattern at the rate of 4-8 screws per 1 square meter.

For long roof slopes, multi-row installation of modules is used. Fastening between the sheets occurs at each bottom of the profile along with simultaneous fixation to the sheathing. There are two versions:

Since the metal profile is fastened to the roof using self-tapping screws, it is necessary to adhere to several simple rules, if followed, the roof will last for many years.

Every year, especially for the arrangement of private houses, everything more people chooses a metal profile for the roof. This coating looks decent on residential or country house. Good characteristics profiled metal sheet provide greater bearing capacity material, and the absence of joints - reliable protection from rain and other atmospheric precipitation.

Main characteristics of the material

Products are produced with a given width of 900 or 1100 mm. The length varies depending on the wishes of the customer. The thickness of the sheets is 0.45−0.8 mm. Metal profiles for roofing are manufactured in accordance with GOST 380–71. The roof is covered with products with a corrugation height of 44 mm. IN suburban construction Bent profiles with sealed joints made of galvanized steel 0.6−1.5 mm thick are common, with paint coating and 12.5 m long.

Other characteristics that are also advantages:

Sheets are marked in accordance with GOST 75–66: the sheet designation, quantity and length in the package are indicated. The weight of the package must be indicated on the label The package number and batch data are noted. The roof is covered with a profile marked “H” and a wave height of 35 mm.

Single- and gable roofs made of metal profiles

IN dacha construction metal roofing profile is used for covering pitched roofs. The ramp will last a long time, provided the correct calculation of the angle of inclination of the roof, which directly depends on the area of ​​the building and the materials used in construction. The angle of inclination of the roof can be 5−60°. As it increases, the consumption of roofing material increases. A metal profile can be used if the slope angle does not exceed 25°. The installation of a 2-pitch roof begins after the roof slope has been established. The permissible value is 1:7.

Calculation of material quantity

The first step is to calculate the number of rows. If the total width of the sheet is 1.19 m, and the working width is 1.11 m, the calculation of the sheets is performed horizontally of the slope. The length of the horizontal slope is measured and divided by the working width of the sheet. The horizontal overlap of the rows is respectively: 1.19−1.11 = 0.08 m.

To form a row calculated total sheets. The length of the sheets is also calculated, for which they use the following formula: D=A+B+C, where:

• A is the length of the slope.
• B - cornice overhang (0.05 m).
• C - vertical overlap of sheets (0.15 m).

The volume of thermal insulation material is calculated by multiplying the roof area by its thickness, that is, by 0.2 m. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. Quantity waterproofing material is calculated by dividing the entire roof area by the area to be covered. The result will tell about required quantity rolls

Tools and materials for installation

Before starting work, everything you need should be at hand and in proper form. Installation of sheets metal profile provides the following tools:

The following materials will be needed:

• waterproofing material;
• boards;
• wooden bars.

Basic installation steps

Installation begins with laying a waterproofing layer that does not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation, onto the rafters and sheathing. For convenience of work and to prevent errors, a roof plan is drawn up in advance indicating the parameters of its main elements:

A superdiffuse membrane is used for the lining. The roof slope of 1:7 (8) is taken into account. Work on such a roof is carried out with extreme caution. Lining prevents condensation and provides protection thermal insulation material. The lining is laid from the overhang to the ridge. Fastening is carried out with 25 mm nails, with a pitch of 20 cm. A counter batten is used for fastening to the rafters. The folded edges are secured to the end board with nails.

Installation begins from the bottom corner of the roof, the profiles are laid overlapping and attached to the sheathing beams with self-tapping screws with rubber seals.

When installing a double-slope roof, the profiled sheet begins to be attached from the right end. In the case of a hip roof, the profile begins to be attached from the highest point of the slope. Sometimes for hipped roofs aluminum profile is used.

First of all, the cornice strip is mounted with self-tapping screws. A profile-shaped seal is placed between the eaves strip and the sheet of roofing material. Cornice strip is carried out 3-4 cm beyond the overhang. On one side of the profiled sheet there is a drainage groove, which should be located at the bottom.

If the slope of the slope is insignificant, compaction is made in the longitudinal seam or the sheets are laid overlapping, the size of two waves. In this case, the sheets are aligned along the overhang.

The profile is temporarily attached with self-tapping screws near the ridge and overhang, the edge is lowered approximately 4 cm beyond the edge of the roof. The next element is mounted, its edge at the overhang is aligned with the previous sheet and fixed in a similar way.

The sheet is connected to the previous screws at the crest of the wave. The direction is from the overhang to the ridge in increments of 50 cm.

After 3-4 sheets have been laid in the manner described above, they are aligned along the line at roof overhang and are finally fixed.

The attachment to the sheathing is made at the bottom of the wave through one corrugation.

Further installation is carried out with an overlap of 20 cm and fastening to the sheathing using 4.8x35 mm roofing screws.

During installation, they move along the roof along already fixed sheets, placing their feet in the grooves of the sheet on the sheathing beams. Employees' shoes must have soft, non-slip soles. Facade cladding is made with a wall profile without a capillary groove.