But it differs from them in the composition of the air bubbles inside.

Aerated concrete blocks are made from cement with a mass fraction of at least 50%.

Aerated concrete walls require external and internal finishing due to porosity and high level moisture absorption.

Features of aerated concrete

This building material has a cellular structure, which gives it special properties:

• good thermal insulation - the characteristics of aerated concrete are comparable to wood;
• low mechanical stability, which leads to the appearance of cracks and chips over time;
• the porous material is blown by air currents, which is why houses made from it without finishing are considered quite cold;
• unaesthetic appearance;
• high absorbency leads to corrosion of the material in winter, during frosts.

The special structure of aerated concrete blocks requires careful processing with finishing materials to improve it quality characteristics. External plastering produced using special solutions that are selected for specific exposure conditions environment. Proper plaster aerated concrete walls provide reliable protection base and its durability, and also allows you to give a more aesthetic appearance to the room.

How and with what to plaster aerated concrete indoors?

Regardless of the type of plaster you choose, you need to start finishing work indoors. Changing the order and plastering the facade of the building will lead to excess humidity in the room. The fact is that when steam leaves the room, especially in winter, condensation accumulates between the blocks and finishing, creating places with excess moisture. This is the main cause of cracks on the surface and crumbling of the plaster. To avoid such troubles, you should first start plastering the walls made of aerated blocks indoors. Experienced craftsmen distinguish two types of technology for plastering aerated concrete walls in a house:

• ensuring complete vapor barrier;
• maintaining and increasing the vapor permeability of the material.

The main element of plastering aerated concrete using the first technology is polyethylene film. It is fixed between layers of mortar, and the vapor permeability of the walls is reduced several times. Also for vapor barrier, oil paints are used, which are applied as a finishing touch, and priming the base with special compounds.

Dependence of internal plastering technology on external finishing

To accurately determine the approach to interior work, you need to decide on exterior plastering. Plastering aerated concrete walls outside the room affects the method and sequence of actions for finishing the room:

1. When the external wall already has some kind of coating or is insulated with dense and vapor-proof materials, moisture will accumulate in the walls. In this situation, interior finishing is carried out using materials with low vapor permeability. You also need to take care of a reliable ventilation system so that moisture does not accumulate in the corners of the room and on the windows.
2. When a facade made of aerated concrete is not covered with anything, or is treated with porous insulation, such as mineral wool, then its vapor permeability is not impaired. In this case, it is necessary to first carry out work on the interior decoration of the room, and then move on to the exterior.

Preparing the base

The technology for plastering walls made of aerated concrete is practically no different from working with any other surface. First of all, you need to make sure that the walls are smooth, and if they are not, sand them with a plane or aerated concrete float. Many craftsmen skip this stage, but as a result, the costs of plaster, which is also used to smooth out defects, increase. Before applying the primer, aerated concrete walls are wetted with water. For drier rooms, it is recommended to choose a universal composition, and for the kitchen and bathroom - a deep penetration primer. \

Mounted on a dry surface construction beacons, which will serve as a guide for successful plastering of the room. After installing the beacons, the internal plaster of the aerated concrete walls will lie smoothly, and the work will progress faster.

The technology for finishing the façade of a building differs slightly from standards. First, the walls are cleaned of dust and leveled. The cracks and cracks are filled special glue for aerated concrete. After drying, it is necessary to apply a layer of primer for cellular materials. An important stage in the preparatory work for plastering the facades of aerated concrete buildings is reinforcing the surface with a mesh. When choosing the type of reinforcing mesh, you must pay attention to the fact that under the influence of an alkaline environment, the material from which it is made can dissolve. Experts recommend choosing fiberglass types.

Plastering aerated concrete (video)

How to plaster aerated concrete surfaces

In order for the repair of an aerated concrete house to last for many years, it is necessary to competently approach the choice of material for finishing the walls inside and outside. Masters distinguish four options for processing walls made of cellular material:

1. Gypsum plaster.
2. Cement-sand mortar.
3. Facade mixtures.
4. Drywall.

The last option is the so-called dry plaster. What better than drywall or plaster on walls made of aerated concrete is a controversial issue. Plastering the surface is a costly and labor-intensive process. Working with gypsum plasterboard takes less time and, as a result, smooth walls are obtained. Procedure:

• vapor barrier of surfaces using polyethylene film, membrane or glassine;
• installation of lathing for fastening gypsum boards;
• fastening drywall to the frame;
• filling joints between sheets using serpyanka tape.

Any type of decorative finish can be applied to an aerated concrete wall leveled in this way. What plaster is best for plastering aerated concrete walls? To answer this question, it is necessary to know the specifics of solutions and their interaction with the base material.

Disadvantages of different types of plasters

Name	Flaws
Cement	Low level of adhesion in relation to aerated block
	High moisture content
	The vapor permeability rate is lower than that of a gas block, so cement mortar can only be used when using vapor-proof materials (polyethylene film, etc.) for interior finishing.
Plaster	Collects moisture during snow and rain
	The appearance of stains on the plaster
	Low vapor permeability
Facade	The only drawback of this type of plasters is their high cost.

Gypsum plaster

The main advantages of gypsum mortar for treating aerated concrete walls include:

• quick drying;
• high level of adhesion;
• there is no need to apply an additional smooth layer;
• Possibility of leveling the plaster for finishing.

Knauf Rotband, Bonolit and Pobedit Velvet are popular among craftsmen.

Cement-sand plaster

If this option was nevertheless chosen for finishing aerated concrete walls, then there are several ways to improve the composition for better interaction with the base. You can increase adhesion by adding more cement mortar to the standard mixture recipe (for 100 kg of concrete you will need 8-10 kg of lime). The second option, which is acceptable, but still not recommended by craftsmen, is to add a mixture for processing aerated concrete (1:1 proportion) to the cement-sand plaster. Among the leaders in sales of mixtures of this type are solutions of the Baumit brand and domestic Craps Extra-light.

Facade solutions

This type of mixture, in the case of aerated concrete, is suitable for both interior and exterior use. The main positive aspects of working with special plasters for aerated concrete:

• high adhesion rate;
• resistance to deformation and cracking;
• vapor permeability is equal to that of aerated concrete;
• nice view;
• does not require additional finishing work.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls on aerated concrete is demonstrated in the video below. With a competent approach to work and studying materials, even a novice master can cope with plastering a house made of aerated concrete blocks.

The expanded clay concrete surface is pre-cleaned, the masonry seams are processed, and then it is primed. Next, the surfaces are reinforced with mesh. The prepared solution is applied and, after drying, rubbed until ready for decoration.

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Preparing the wall surface

Before plastering, any dirt, dust, oil or grease stains on the wall blocks are removed. The mortar that protrudes above the surface of the masonry gets knocked down.

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Seam processing

Cracks and seams are sealed with sand-cement mortar. When they are narrow and deep, they are embroidered to allow the material to penetrate. All recesses are aligned to the plane of the wall to ensure more uniform shrinkage of the plaster. The surface must be dry before the next operation.

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Primer

Before using gypsum composition, expanded clay concrete blocks treated with agents that improve mutual adhesion. Liquid quartz primers, polymer dispersions, as well as “concrete contact” type compositions intended for expanded clay blocks can be used. At the same time, you can use ready-made plaster mixtures that already contain additives for similar purposes. Then the blocks will not require preliminary priming.

Before using a cement-sand mortar to level out the suction properties, the masonry areas are treated with a solution of cement in water. It is also possible to simply wet the expanded clay blocks with water when applying the plaster layer. Properly prepared masonry will evenly absorb water from the plaster solution, which will keep it smooth.

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Installation of plaster mesh

The use of sand-cement mortar (up to 10 mm thick) does not require reinforcement. However, when the plaster layer is thicker than 1.5 cm, it is better to fill it with a flat galvanized mesh. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are installed in dowels into holes made in the masonry every 20 - 30 cm.

The mesh is pressed with thin washers under the screw heads. A relatively thin layer of plaster coating makes it possible to use fiberglass mesh (density 200 g/m2, mesh 10x10 or 5x5 mm). It is advisable to install it before plastering with gypsum mortar.

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Preparation of the solution

Preparation of plaster mortar

The ready-to-use solution should have the consistency of liquid mashed potatoes. Plasticizers will make it easier to use. Also, especially in gypsum plaster, you should add components that increase adhesion to the base. must provide the masonry with moisture resistance, have high strength, adhere well to the base, dampen minor shrinkage changes in geometry and frost resistance.

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Application

Before starting, vertical beacons are attached to the solution and leveled in increments convenient for using the two-meter rule. For the first layer, the mixture is thrown onto the masonry with a trowel and smoothed with a rule that moves along the beacons slightly to the right - left and from bottom to top. After 6 - 7 hours, the beacons are removed from the wall, and a 2nd thin finishing layer is applied, eliminating all remaining irregularities.

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Drying

The solutions dry out quite quickly, as they dry on the outside. The plaster forms a smooth, even surface from under which the relief of the blocks of expanded clay concrete base does not appear.

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Finishing

As it sets finishing layer rub with a grater. Complete drying of the cement-sand coating gives the start to finishing: priming with painting, decorative puttying, priming for wallpaper, tiles, porcelain tiles, etc. Gypsum plaster creates a surface almost ready for decorative finishing (wallpaper, painting). The external surfaces of the building covered with plaster should be immediately covered with façade paint, which will protect them from dampness.

Work procedure for insulation

To insulate expanded clay concrete walls yourself, you should strictly adhere to the work technology. The process consists of several stages: preparing the surface, preparing the solution, applying an adhesive composition to the slabs, installing insulation, creating a vapor barrier layer, reinforcement, cladding.

Materials and tools

To work you will need:

• insulation;
• fiberglass facade mesh;
• primer;
• adhesive composition for insulation;
• putty;
• drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• containers for preparing glue and putty;
• cuvette and brush for applying primer;
• construction level;
• spatulas - narrow, wide, serrated;
• umbrella-shaped dowels;
• construction knife;
• polyurethane foam;
• roulette;
• vapor barrier material (membrane);
• construction tape.

Depending on which cladding method is chosen, other materials will also be needed: brick, siding or facade plaster.

Preparation

The surface is cleaned of debris, dust and dirt. Apply a layer of primer, wait until it dries, and proceed to applying plaster. The wall is primed again to ensure high-quality adhesion of the insulation to the surface.

The next stage in the process of insulating walls made of expanded clay blocks is preparing the solution

Today, a large number of adhesive compositions are produced, and when choosing, you should pay attention to ensure that it is suitable for the selected insulation. The solution is prepared following the instructions on the package.

Application of composition and installation of slabs

The glue must be applied using a notched trowel, spreading it over the entire surface of the wall in a thin layer. There should be no empty areas. After this, the composition is applied to the slab itself - around the perimeter and in the center.

Installation starts from the bottom of the wall and proceeds sequentially along the perimeter of the building. With this method, all the slabs in the first row will have time to be firmly fixed, and the load from those installed above will not move them. The evenness of the position of each slab is checked using a building level. The second and subsequent rows are performed with a shift of half the length of the slab. To do this, cut the slab in half using a construction knife.

If in some places the sheets do not fit tightly together, the space is filled with polyurethane foam.

Additional fixation and installation of vapor barrier

After hardening adhesive solution(about a day later) the insulation is additionally attached to the expanded clay concrete using dowels. They are driven in around the perimeter of the slabs and in the center.

When using mineral or basalt wool, a vapor barrier layer is required to protect the material from getting wet. For this purpose, special membrane films are used, which also protect from wind. The film is secured by placing the strips vertically. In this case, each subsequent strip must overlap the previous one by at least 10 cm. The joints are glued with construction tape.

Reinforcement

Proceed to the installation of the reinforcing mesh. It is mounted vertically. Using a tape measure, measure the height of the wall, cut off a piece of mesh required length. Apply plaster to the insulation area and press the mesh into it. This must be done quickly, before the plaster hardens. In order to level the surface of the plaster while pressing the mesh, it is recommended to use a façade spatula for the work.

Finishing

After insulation of expanded clay concrete walls, cladding can be done using brickwork, installing siding or using plaster.

Plaster the wall after the layer of composition on which the reinforcing mesh is fixed has completely dried. After this, the surface is primed again, wait until the wall dries, then begin applying the starting and finishing compositions. The final stage– façade painting.

Second possible variant– installation of siding. In this case, reinforcing mesh is not required; the cladding is installed directly on the slabs. Since the “wet” method does not require the installation of sheathing, installation of siding will require the installation of anchors on which the slats will be attached.

Why brick cladding less popular than the “wet” method? It requires creating a foundation and waterproofing it. This entails additional financial and time costs.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of a building built from expanded clay concrete blocks - this not only reduces heat loss, but also extends the life of the house. The cost of the materials that will be required is affordable, and the work itself is quite feasible to carry out on your own.

Technology for applying plaster to expanded clay concrete walls

It is not difficult to do the work of plastering walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands; it is important to properly prepare the surface and follow the instructions. . Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface from dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any.

It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding mortar;
Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution dries completely.
Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a necessary step. You can get by with plain water, which you apply to the blocks immediately before plastering. When using gypsum plaster, the surface must be primed with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

• Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface from dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any. It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding mortar;
• Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution dries completely.
• Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a necessary step. You can get by with plain water, which you apply to the blocks immediately before plastering. When using gypsum plaster, the surface must be primed with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

• Surface reinforcement – ​​reinforcement is required if the plaster layer exceeds 1.5 centimeters. Experts suggest using reinforcing mesh or fiberglass mesh, the structure is attached with self-tapping screws.
• Applying the solution - the prepared solution is laid in two layers. Before starting work, it is necessary to secure vertical beacons, which can be used to navigate in the future. The first layer of plaster is thrown onto the surface using a trowel and carefully leveled according to the beacon rule. The resulting surface is left for 6 hours until completely dry, then all beacons are removed and the finishing layer is applied.

For layer thicknesses up to 15 mm, reinforcement is not required.

Plastering is an important stage in construction; it extends the life of the structure, protects the walls from moisture and temperature changes.

Construction from expanded clay concrete blocks. finishing with plaster inside and outside

The production of expanded clay concrete blocks is very simple and cheap. To produce a block, you do not need special and expensive equipment. Expanded clay concrete can be easily produced in conditions. This property should reduce the price of such a block, but, as usually happens in our consumer society, it is not the final consumer (you and me) who benefits from the reduction, and even does not receive quite the same benefits from it as it might seem. The main beneficiary is the seller, but that, as they say, is a completely different story.

Using heavier (dense) blocks, it is quite possible to build higher-rise buildings.

When building a wall from expanded clay concrete blocks, there is no need to install a vapor barrier, because the vapor permeability of expanded clay concrete is quite high. It is quite comparable to the vapor permeability of brick. A bit less.

When using expanded clay concrete blocks in private construction, it is possible, and even necessary, to use lighter blocks. The thermal conductivity of such blocks is already comparable to wood, and their strength allows for the construction of a two or even three-story house covered with reinforced concrete hollow slabs. Thus, expanded clay concrete will allow total weight houses are smaller and at the same time save on the complexity of the foundation and insulation.

In a wall made of expanded clay concrete blocks, ordinary dowels with equally ordinary screws are easily held. In this way, expanded clay concrete blocks compare favorably with foam aerated concrete, in which neither dowels nor screws hold, and it is necessary to use fasteners specially designed for these materials.

There are quite a few regions in our country where minerals such as limestone and clay are abundant. Obviously, in such regions there are and successfully operate the production of cement, expanded clay and expanded clay concrete. Before buying expanded clay concrete on the market, you can look around and suddenly find out that there is a factory not far from your construction site where you can purchase the same construction material much cheaper and without intermediary markups. True, such a situation is becoming possible less and less due to the development of our economy, in which the end consumer is at the most disadvantageous position. But I got distracted again.

Difficulties/dangers/disadvantages

As I often say, it seems that this has already become one of my favorite sayings, any good idea can be brought to the point of absurdity by ugly execution. That's how it is with blocks. Non-compliance with technology, the use of high-quality raw materials, of course, to reduce the cost of products, concealment of characteristics, all this creates difficulties for private developers.

When buying blocks, carefully look at how long their dimensions are. Weigh the block in your hand to determine, at least approximately, whether you are being deceived with the density. For example, a block of 20x20x40 cm has a volume of 16,000 cubic centimeters. There are a million cubic centimeters in one cubic meter. We divide a million by 16 thousand and get 62 and a half blocks in one cubic meter. Unexpected result, right? If a cubic meter of blocks weighs 500 kilograms, then one block will weigh only 8 kilograms. This is quite small. If the blocks are hollow, they will weigh even less. The calculation in this case becomes very complicated due to difficulties in calculating the volume of one block.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will be lighter than a house made of brick, but not light enough to be built on a lightweight foundation. The foundation, however, as always, requires calculation.

When laying a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, cold bridges are almost certain to form. It is good to make thin walls with external thermal insulation from such blocks.

It is better not to leave masonry made of expanded clay concrete blocks unfinished for more than a couple of years. This may have a negative impact on the longevity of the building.

A wall made of expanded clay concrete block is less breathable than one made of brick. However, taking into account the fact that there is also interior decoration of our walls, this issue is not so important.

When thermally insulating a wall made of expanded clay concrete blocks, I, as always, recommend doing it along the outside of the building and using medium- and low-density mineral wool slabs. To calculate the thickness of the insulation, you can use a thermal conductivity calculator and an example of its use.

Personally, I like such building material as expanded clay concrete blocks. I used it in my practice. I like its strength and lightness at the same time. True, I took blocks from a large plant and selected batches. It seems to me that this wall material better than brick in terms of price-quality ratio.

Thank you for your attention!

Dmitry Belkin

Technology of applying plaster composition to expanded clay concrete blocks

Plastering can be done manually or using special plastering machines. If you have enough experience and knowledge, you can do the work yourself. If you are not confident that everything will turn out well, then it is better to use the help of professional plasterers.

Plastering walls

Preparing the wall surface

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to clean the surface from sagging masonry mortar, dirt, grease and oil stains.

The products are characterized by a low coefficient of water absorption, that is, they practically do not absorb water from the solution. Therefore, preliminary priming of the surface of the blocks is not required.

Before applying cement-sand plaster, you can treat the blocks with a solution of cement and water, or simply wet them. Before starting to work with other types of plaster, preliminary treatment of the surface of the blocks with a special composition that improves the adhesion of materials is required.

Preparing the wall surface for plastering

• Thanks to the smooth surface of expanded clay blocks, required thickness the plaster layer is relatively small - from 1 cm to 1.5 cm. Under such conditions, the use of reinforcing mesh is not required.
• In the case of further finishing of the walls with tiles or stone, you can additionally strengthen the plaster layer with such a mesh.
• However, if there are masonry defects and it is necessary to apply a thicker layer of mortar, the use of masonry mesh is mandatory. For these purposes, galvanized mesh or fiberglass mesh is used. It is attached to the surface of the blocks using self-tapping screws.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

The final stage of preparation is to install the beacons in increments corresponding to the length of the rule and level them. The video in this article will tell you more about this.

Preparation of plaster mortar and its application

It is easy to prepare a cement-sand mortar yourself. But a simpler option is to buy a ready-made dry mixture. As a rule, the packaging contains instructions for its use.

The plaster mixture must be diluted with water and stirred thoroughly. Its consistency should be thick enough so as not to run down the surface.

With the manual plastering method, the solution is applied to the surface of the blocks with a trowel and leveled according to the rule, taking into account the location of the beacons. Plastering on expanded clay concrete blocks is done in two layers.

Alignment with gypsum plaster beacons

Six hours after applying the first layer, it must be thoroughly rubbed.

Then the finishing layer of plaster is applied. To prevent cracking of the plastered surface, it must be covered with film. The solution will dry gradually and evenly.

Mechanized block plastering

When performing finishing work in large volumes, it is more advisable to use mechanized method applying plaster.

It has a number of undeniable advantages over manual plastering:

• Mixing the solution occurs much faster and with better quality.
• Uniform application of plaster to the surface of a block structure.
• The quality of adhesion of the mortar to the blocks is stronger, due to its supply under pressure.
• Significant savings in building materials and reduced labor costs.

When using plastering machines, it is necessary to select special dry mixtures for machine plastering.

Using a special plastering machine

Plastering the walls will not only create additional protection for the wall structure, but will also give the entire house an attractive aesthetic appearance.

Plastered facade of a country house

Plastering the interior walls of premises makes it possible to further decorate the interior with any materials.

Combining wall painting with wallpaper

A correctly selected plaster mixture, as well as professionally performed plastering of the walls, will significantly extend the life of the building.

Beautiful, reliable, durable - expanded clay concrete walls can simply be plastered!

A wide selection of modern plastering materials makes it possible to comprehensively protect the house, creating a unique appearance both outside and inside.

What materials to use

You can insulate a wall made of expanded clay concrete blocks using various materials:

1. Mineral and basalt wool. This is one of the most popular insulation materials. Its advantages: non-flammability, low thermal conductivity, environmental safety and affordable price. The disadvantage of mineral wool is that it requires additional waterproofing, since it easily absorbs moisture and can become unusable over time. Produced in the form of slabs and rolls. The higher the density of the material, the higher the cost.
2. Styrofoam. With the help of this lightweight, inexpensive and easy-to-use insulation, you can carry out the work quite quickly, and do it yourself. The disadvantages of such a solution include the instability of the material to moisture and pests, and a fire hazard. Available in slab form.
3. Glass wool. Withstands temperature changes, does not become damp and is cheaper mineral wool. However, when working with the material, you must strictly observe safety precautions - the smallest fibers of glass wool can damage the respiratory tract and skin.
4. Penoplex. It has characteristics similar to polystyrene foam, but is more expensive and practically does not allow air to pass through. Resistant to rodents and high humidity. It is produced in the form of plates with locks, thanks to which the process of installing insulation is simplified as much as possible.

Advice! When answering the question of how to insulate an expanded clay block from the outside, experienced builders recommend mineral or basalt wool.

Nuances of performing work

There are 3 methods of external insulation of expanded clay concrete walls:

1. Installation of a ventilated facade. When choosing this method, a frame is first created, inside which insulation boards are laid. It is important to consider that the sheathing is attached to the wall, creating additional load on it, so this method is not recommended.
2. Laying insulation between the block and the facing brick. This method is considered the most reliable and durable, but the cost of such a solution is high, and therefore not available to everyone.
3. "Wet" method. A budget-friendly method of external insulation, most often used. It consists in fixing the insulation to the wall using a special solution, after which it is closed vapor barrier material, on top of which plaster is applied. The advantages of this option: no serious load on the wall, the ability to paint the facade of the building in any color, low cost of materials and work, protection of expanded clay concrete from influence external factors(precipitation, temperature changes, winds).

Important! Before insulating expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside, they need to be plastered. This increases the wall's ability to retain heat

Plastering expanded clay blocks

Choosing a mixture for plastering the facade of a building is not difficult these days. The compositions adapted to modern conditions have a very strong foundation. They do not crack and do not fall off for the next season. As soon as the plaster is applied to the wall, it should be covered with any facade paint. Such enamel will protect the walls from unnecessary dampness and interfere with vapor permeability.

Plaster based on cement and sand is applied to the named types of blocks. It matches the masonry. To perform the work better, you can use a special mesh, but this is not a prerequisite. A galvanized mesh of a flat sample is placed on the cement base. It is secured with screws. The washers will be a zinc suspension with perforations, divided into plates. Washers of this type have a minimum thickness and, accordingly, will not increase the plaster layer. Such indicators are very important for some surfaces.

To make your work as easy as possible, plasticizers should be added to the solution.

Plaster made from a gypsum mixture is warmer and airier. It has lower density. To improve adhesion to the wall, it is treated with a composition intended for this purpose. There are ready-made gypsum plasters consisting of concrete-contact ingredients. No preliminary action is required for such reasons. Reinforcement is carried out by using a polymer mesh.

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Ventilated façade on KBB walls

If you have chosen a ventilated façade and insulated your house with basalt wool, you can install it in a wooden sheathing or in the space between steel hangers. I do not recommend you insulate a house made of KBB with polystyrene foam under a ventilated façade.

Why? Because there are several reasons why polystyrene foam is completely unsuitable as insulation for a ventilated façade:

1. Polystyrene foam is a flammable material, it cannot be used in systems with a ventilated facade. Rodents feel great in such a cake if you still make foam plastic into the ventilated facade. The movement of air in the ventilation gap and the moisture removed will eventually make a set of individual foam balls from the foam sheets. Your insulation will flow down the ventilation gap.

Basalt wool, which you can use, does not have these shortcomings in the ventilation façade. You can also use polyurethane foam, resole foam or ecowool.

After installing the sheathing or hangers and subsequent insulation, you can install the outer decorative layer on the ventilated facade.

What is suitable in this case for a house made of KBB:

• Porcelain tilesClinker panelsVinyl sidingMetal sidingFiber cement panelsPlankenBlock house

These materials can be used to form a decorative layer in the ventilation façade for your home. How to install them - see on this website, everything is described in detail.

Requirements for materials for plastering blocks

When finishing cellular concrete with your own hands great importance It has right choice materials. The solution must meet a number of requirements.

• High strength. Cellular blocks are not durable, which requires their protection from wear, abrasion, mechanical shock, scratches and other damage.
• Good moisture resistance. The pores on the surface actively absorb moisture, which causes the wall to become wet; this requires exterior finishing to be done with a waterproof layer.
• Sufficient adhesion. Otherwise the composition will simply fall off. It is better to use mixtures made on the basis of a binder cement composition and various additives that increase adhesion.
• High plasticity. It is necessary that the layer can withstand small surface changes in geometry resulting from temperature changes and shrinkage. For these purposes, the composition must contain polymer plasticizers and other elements that make the dried layer sufficiently flexible.
• Frost resistance.

What plaster is suitable for expanded clay concrete walls

The surface of a building made from such blocks, depending on the purpose of the room, is covered with:

• A mortar made on the basis of sand and cement (see Optimal ratio of cement and sand for plaster). The price of such a composition is relatively small, and its acquisition is affordable for everyone.
• Special mixtures for cement based with various additives, plasticizers and fillers. It is more convenient to work with such plaster, it is more durable, and has a number of positive characteristics.
• Hydrophobizing compounds. It is used to protect the walls of buildings erected in difficult climatic conditions, or surfaces located below the zero ground level.
• Gypsum-based solutions. They are used only for interior plastering of residential premises with normal humidity.

Advice: The basic requirement for any type finishing material- the possibility of applying it in a thick layer, and the presence of good vapor permeability.

Features of gypsum plaster for expanded clay concrete houses

Some features of using gypsum plaster:

• The base of the blocks is cement, and the plasters are made of gypsum.
• The two materials have different acidity or pH levels.
• In expanded clay concrete alkaline reaction, and gypsum produces an acidic When mixing such media, a neutralization process occurs.
• After applying gypsum plaster to a wall made of expanded clay concrete blocks, a neutralization reaction occurs. As a result, strength is lost at the interface between the media, which can lead to peeling of the plaster.

To solve this problem you will need:

• It is good to prime the surfaces of the walls with soil specifically designed for concrete foundations. Wherein:

the first layer is diluted with water so that the composition penetrates deeply into the material, creating a strengthened layer;
after the first one has dried, the second one is applied undiluted, creating the desired film at the boundary between the separations of the media.

• Gypsum plaster is used.

Advice: Priming the surface of the walls must be performed for any type of finishing, which significantly increases the adhesion strength of the plaster and the base.

Expanded clay concrete walls can be finished with any ready-made dry mixtures used for buildings made of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks with high vapor permeability (see Plaster for cellular concrete: how to choose).

Wall finishing made of expanded clay concrete

It is not recommended to leave masonry, whether it is made of bricks or blocks, unprotected from moisture and frost with outside buildings, the only exception can be facing bricks of proper quality. It is also necessary to take into account such a nuance as the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house. Many private developers are building houses with an outer wall thickness of one block, 400 mm (one and a half bricks). In this case, the house turns out to be lighter and does not require a massive foundation. The most important thing is not to focus on this lightness and the foundation is correct. Despite the fact that expanded clay blocks are lighter in weight than bricks, laying a lightweight foundation is completely excluded. The downside to walls of this thickness is thermal conductivity. Before you start cladding the walls outside, you need to think about their insulation.

For external thermal insulation of a house, you can use both extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool insulation. The latter are non-flammable material, but polystyrene foam boards can be plastered on, using a plaster mesh, of course. Low-density mineral wool does not have such advantages, and is only suitable for finishing siding and panel materials. When laying this type of mineral wool under siding, care should be taken to ensure that it is not blown by the wind; for this, wind-moisture-proof, vapor-permeable insulating membranes are used. Under such a membrane, the mineral wool insulation will not be damp and will be reliably protected from being blown away by the wind. There are also high-density mineral wool boards, which are quite suitable for applying plaster to them, but this will not differ much from the use of polystyrene foam, except that it is non-flammable. Choose for yourself, at your discretion or according to price.

Currently, the number of plaster mixtures for plastering facades is quite large. Modern plaster compositions do not crack during use and do not fly off the walls after a season. After plastering, it is recommended to paint the external walls with special facade paints, which not only protect walls from excessive wetting, but also do not interfere with their vapor permeability. Before plastering, if required in the instructions for using the plaster mixture, it is recommended to treat walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks with “concrete contact”, since these are primarily concrete blocks, which contain expanded clay. Also, “concrete contact” is necessary when applying plaster inside the house.

Wall decoration with siding, or plastic panels for the facade - a less labor-intensive task than plastering the surface, especially if you also take into account the use of insulation. It is quite possible to handle the finishing of panels or siding on your own, but plastering the entire area of ​​the walls of a house is not easy; a non-professional is unlikely to be able to do it, although if there was a desire...

Another less common finishing option is painting a wall made of blocks without applying a layer of plaster. If the walls are sufficient to not use a layer of insulation, why not? This type of finishing is quite aesthetic.

Wet facade on the walls of a house made of KBB

If you want to make a wet facade on your house, then after preparing the walls (leveling, filling cracks, removing excess mortar), you can start insulating the walls of the house.

You can use basalt wool with a density of 45 or more and facade foam with a density of 25 or more. The wool is mounted on façade dowels, the foam is mounted with glue and additionally on façade dowels.

At the time of installation of the insulation, a façade fiberglass mesh is attached on top of it, which will reinforce the plaster layer. The mesh is attached with the same façade dowels with “fungi” that hold the insulation to the wall.

After installing the fiberglass mesh, a base primer layer or two-component plaster is applied. Next, the plaster is primed with penetrating primer. Modern facade systems allow you to maintain the plaster layer in a semi-plastic state, which guarantees its long-term operation.

After priming, you can prepare for applying a decorative layer or painting.

You can use the following decorative coating options:

• Painting with facade paintDecorative plaster bark beetlePlaster coatDecorative smalt plaster

After applying the decorative layer, you can use fixing compounds and facade varnishes. They will protect the decorative layer from contamination and possible destruction.

Under no circumstances should you insulate a house made of expanded clay concrete from the inside. Expanded clay concrete is actually a vapor-tight material. Moisture from the premises will be locked between the insulation blocks INSIDE the room. In this case, you will have all the adverse consequences - dampness in the room, mold under the insulation, and so on.

Applying concrete plaster.

Plastering walls with sand concrete can be done with a “purchased” mixture or prepared independently.

Preparation of the solution.

To prepare the solution, use a concrete mixer or trough.

Plaster for external concrete work is prepared as follows:

1. Sifting sand. For plaster - this is important, since small pebbles, clay impurities and organic residues (foliage, roots) will interfere with the leveling of the plaster.
2. Mixing. First, I combine sand with cement: pour sand and cement into a container and mix them thoroughly.
3. Adding water carried out in small portions. It is very easy to pour it: at the last moment, when the solution is almost ready, every 200 grams of water can become fatal.

After adding each portion, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

1. Definition of readiness. The solution must be homogeneous (in color, structure). Its consistency should be such that it easily slides off a trowel or spatula, leaving it almost clean.

Sand to cement ratio depends on the brand of cement. For example, for M500 – 5 buckets of sand. BUT, if the cement is not fresh, its concentration is increased by 1 position (1 part of cement: 4 parts of sand).

Plastering walls with homemade sand concrete is the most simple finishing, accessible to a non-professional builder.

Plastering expanded clay concrete blocks - construction

Plastering expanded clay concrete blocks

Plastering expanded clay concrete blocks

One of the advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks is that they do not require serious plastering work for cladding. Exterior wall may have a layer of plaster only 5 mm thick. Sometimes just grouting and clogging the pores is enough. In this case, the inner layer of the substance will be only 5–10 mm. Yes, and plaster can be different.

Varieties

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks can be gypsum. It is a little lighter and better in terms of thermal protection, compared to cement-sand mortar. However, before applying it, it is necessary to treat the surface with concrete contact. It increases adhesion and gives good adhesion of the material to the expanded clay surface. In some cases, the wall treatment step can be skipped if you select the appropriate solution.

The cement-sand variety of plaster is similar in composition to wall plaster, which increases adhesion. Requires additional reinforcement using a fine-mesh galvanized network, which is attached separately to the wall.

In fact, both types of plaster provide the same good thermal insulation. They close micropores and prevent cracks and crevices from protruding. After plastering, you can cover the outer surface with ceramic tiles, cardboard or plastic panels. But first you need to understand exactly how plaster is applied to expanded clay concrete blocks.

Applying plaster

This process must be guided by the material used. If plastering foam and aerated concrete often requires 3-4 stages, then walls made of expanded clay concrete only need two to achieve an ideal result. This is the filling of joints without the use of reinforcing mesh, followed by final plastering and leveling. And if we move away from theory and touch on practice, we often get by with just one stage.

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks dries quite quickly, and it is almost not absorbed by the walls. It turns out that the solution seems to dry completely “outside”. As a result, there is no particular need to use a mesh to ensure strong adhesion of the plaster to the expanded clay. A wall plastered in this way does not suffer from winter daily temperature changes, does not collapse and does not form cracks. In addition, thermal conductivity meets all standards.

Finishing work

In addition to plaster, expanded clay concrete blocks can be painted with any paints, as long as they are vapor-permeable. No preliminary putty is required, which results in a beautiful surface relief of the blocks. However, the consumption of facade paint increases.

In addition, the relief surface of the blocks can be well covered with decorative light and heavy porcelain stoneware tiles, etc. The main thing is to use good tile adhesive.

When facing, it is important to take into account such a factor as vapor permeability. Steam must escape to the outside, which requires the use of vapor-permeable grout adhesive

In addition, the installation of the slabs takes into account the ventilation air gap.

Let's summarize briefly

Plastering the expanded clay concrete block and subsequent cladding protect the material from climate impact, increase its performance properties and unique qualities:

• Humidity regulation
• Breathability
• Excellent thermal inertia
• Ease
• Low thermal conductivity
• Environmental friendliness

And do not forget that you need to choose expanded clay concrete blocks only from a reliable manufacturer, and when working with it, follow all technical construction standards.

Based on materials from the site: http://skb21.ru

Sheathing with plasterboard sheets

There is another way to finish expanded clay concrete wall the inside of the building is covered with plasterboard sheets.

Wall covering with plasterboard sheets

Expanded clay concrete blocks hold anchors, screws, etc. very well, so metal profiles are attached directly to the wall. In the space between the wall and the drywall, you can lay an additional layer of insulation - an additional advantage of using plasterboard sheets.

Installation of plasterboard sheets is the same as for other types of walls, very simple and quick. Afterwards all that remains is to putty the joints of the plasterboard sheets and cover the entire surface with a thin layer of finishing putty.

Installation of plasterboard sheets is the easiest type of room finishing, but do not forget that this method conceals space.

The three methods described above are the most suitable types of finishing expanded clay concrete blocks. Which one will be better for you, decide for yourself. You can also learn how to properly prepare plaster solutions and apply them to the surface on our website. Have a nice renovation!

The video below will show you how to plaster block walls.

Insulation

When working on the facade, the following must be taken into account:

• practice shows that one of best options exterior finishing serves as a masonry of a thermally insulating expanded clay concrete block, which compensates for heat loss up to 75%; additional insulation is mineral wool or polystyrene foam/expanded polystyrene; the foam plastic is fixed on the cleaned base using an adhesive composition, and is additionally secured with dowels. All seams are treated with polyurethane foam; mineral wool requires stripping, gluing and reinforcement of wall structures to increase the strength of the structure; the use of penoizol will achieve sound and waterproofing and reduce thermal conductivity.

Installation of plaster under a fur coat

Work can be carried out without insulation or on this layer. The method, known as finishing the facade “under a fur coat,” is carried out using spraying or spraying a solution. This method is less labor-intensive than working with other materials.

Created to work with the solution special devices. The device can be very simple, manually operated, or more technologically advanced, such as an air gun. At the construction site, the required mobility of the mixture is selected and finishing begins.

When choosing materials, you should initially evaluate the amount of work. The final finishing cost may be too high

Finishing walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks

External finishing of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks is made of facing ceramic or clinker bricks, crushed stone or plastic facade systems.

Insulation is most often located on the outside of the building. Firstly, the area of ​​the internal rooms does not decrease, and secondly, condensation will not form between the wall surface and the thermal insulation layer, the accumulation of which over time can lead to partial destruction of expanded clay concrete blocks.

Various materials are used as insulation when finishing a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks:

• Styrofoam. The most common and technologically advanced material for insulation;
• mineral wool based on basalt fiber. This insulation has high thermal insulation properties, does not crumble or lose shape;
• fiberglass. Has a relatively low cost.

The same rules apply for interior decoration as for other building materials. Cement-sand or gypsum plaster is used. Possible cladding with plasterboard, clapboard, plastic panels - on expanded clay concrete masonry Guide bars or metal profiles hold well.

Laying ceramic tiles or natural stone performed directly on the wall of the house without additional preparation. In this case, special tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar is used.

Plastering expanded clay concrete blocks

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks made from a cement-sand mixture bonds well with the masonry - the mixture and wall material are based on a cement binder. The use of plaster mesh is desirable, but not necessary; you can use it to strengthen only the lintels and armored belt. For cement plastering of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, a flat galvanized mesh, which is attached to self-tapping screws, is suitable. A galvanized perforated suspension, cut into plates with holes, is suitable as washers. Such washers practically do not add thickness to the plaster layer

This is especially important if the surface is fairly flat and you plan to minimum thickness layer of plaster.

Adding special plasticizers to the solution greatly simplifies the work.

Plaster for expanded clay concrete blocks based on gypsum mixtures is lighter and warmer due to its lower density. To improve adhesion, the walls of houses are treated with a special compound. There are gypsum mixtures that already contain concrete contact components. When working with them, no pre-treatment of the surface is required. Reinforcement, if necessary, is performed using a polymer mesh. It is much easier to work with than metal.

Facing a house from expanded clay concrete blocks

If the external cladding of the house is taken into account in the project, then at the stage of wall construction, a special mesh of metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm and a cell width of 50 mm is laid. It is laid through two (maximum three) rows of blocks. The thickness of this mesh is not large, so it will not affect thermal conductivity. The outer wall made of facing bricks is connected to the inner wall along the entire perimeter of the building without interruption. Experts recommend constructing both walls at the same time - the base and the finishing - then the outlets of the laid mesh will definitely not rust.

Another option for fastening the cladding of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is using flexible plastic clamps. In this case, it is convenient to make a fixed ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer and outer wall. The latch is a round rod with a dowel sleeve at one end and an anchor at the other. IN load-bearing wall Holes are drilled with a vertical pitch of 50-60 cm and a horizontal pitch of 40-50 cm, into which dowels are hammered. Thermal insulation material strung on dowels and secured plastic clips. The protruding ends of the rods with a sand anchor are walled up in the masonry joints of the facing material.

If external insulation is not planned, then the facing wall can be attached to the load-bearing wall using clamps - galvanized steel strips 30-40 mm wide, bent in the shape of the letter “L”. The clamps are nailed horizontally in increments of 50-60 cm. The free end is inserted into the seams of the outer masonry.

How warm and durable a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will be depends not only on the design and building materials used, but also on the professionalism of the workers and the quality of the work performed. The Project company provides construction services in Moscow and the Moscow region. Experienced specialists perform internal and external construction works at affordable prices.

External covering of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Insulation of expanded clay concrete walls with fiberglass.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, the plan of which provides for the outer covering of the walls, is fixed during their construction with a special mesh resembling metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. It is placed in a certain interval, after 2 rows of blocks. The mesh has a slight thickness, so the heat conductivity coefficient will remain at the same level.

The external wall, finished with facing bricks, is connected to the internal partition along the perimeter of the building. Many experienced craftsmen build 2 walls at once, one of which is the base, and the other is the finishing option. The laid mesh will not corrode.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks may have elastic plastic fasteners as options for securing the covering cladding. Here a ventilation opening is constructed, located in the space between the outer base and the layer to retain heat. A rod with a dowel sleeve and an anchor acts as a latch.

On the main wall, recesses are made at a distance of 50-60 cm vertically and 40-50 cm horizontally. Dowels are driven into them. The base, which serves the purpose of the heat insulator, is mounted on dowels and snapped into place with plastic clips.

A structure made of expanded clay concrete blocks, not insulated with material, involves connection with load-bearing structure clasps, that is, strips of steel base taking the shape of the letter “G”. The clamps are fixed at a distance of 50-60 mm.

The high performance of cladding buildings made of expanded clay concrete blocks is determined by the nature of the building materials used and the experience of the craftsmen.

Based on materials from the site: http://ostroymaterialah.ru

Question: Good afternoon, dear gentlemen! Please tell us how best to decorate the outside of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks (KBB), what facade would be appropriate here, what materials can be used? Arthur Shakarin, Novosibirsk

Answered by Semyon Fiskunov, Stroy-Alliance CJSC, Tolyatti.

Answer: Hello, Arthur! I'll try to answer your question in detail. Moreover, KBB is a fairly popular material; many owners build their houses from expanded clay concrete blocks.

First of all, I would like to ask you a counter question - how thick are the expanded clay concrete walls you built? The question is not an idle one.

It depends on your answer whether you will have to insulate your walls from KBB, or whether you can immediately begin finishing the exterior and applying a decorative layer.

The main nuances when finishing expanded clay concrete walls

Let's digress a little from the topic and talk about the material itself. The block, as we have already discussed above, consists of concrete and expanded clay. It has good vapor permeability, low thermal conductivity, and is relatively lightweight. However, its surface is far from perfectly smooth - there may be various pores, cavities, and protrusions. At the same time, it perfectly absorbs water from external environment(for example, during rain, or unpaved). And its geometric dimensions, as a rule, are characterized by significant deviations - up to several centimeters. It goes without saying that a wall built using these blocks will not have a clean surface or evenness. Hence the requirement for the thickness of the layer that the plaster can work with.

Of course, you can use thin-layer mixtures, but, as practice shows, this will be a more labor-intensive, time-consuming and expensive process. In this case, you will need to apply several layers, and each one must gain a certain strength - and this takes time. In addition, you need to provide the embedded elements necessary to connect them, or use a special plaster mesh. Alternatively, the first layer can be made in the form of separate “cakes” applied with a trowel or plaster trowel, which is then well primed after hardening, and after this the surface is finally leveled. As you can see, the process is quite tedious.

Cost of plaster.

The price of plaster includes the volume of materials used (sand, concrete). Hired workers indicate only the cost of their work per m2, without taking into account the costs of purchasing building materials.

The method for calculating the required amount of materials depends on the curvature of the walls:

1. Smooth walls. The plaster has a layer of approximately 2cm. It is enough to multiply 0.02 m (2 cm) by the “square” of the surface to be plastered to obtain the volume of the required mixture in cubic meters.

The brand of cement also matters: for example, M-500 requires 5 buckets of sand. This means that 1/6th of the volume is cement. Accordingly, the result must be divided by 6 to find out how much cement is needed and calculate its cost.

By multiplying this number by 5, you can find out the required volume of sand.

1. Curved walls. The consumption of the solution increases significantly if the walls are curved. They can be curved, concave, or inclined.

It is impossible to reliably accurately calculate the need for mortar in case of severe curvature of the walls. It’s easier to do the following: calculate the volume of plaster in one layer (as if the walls were smooth), and then add to them the approximate volume of areas requiring thicker plaster.

You can buy the components of the mixture in a deliberately smaller volume in order to subsequently purchase the missing quantity (when there are not many unplastered surfaces, it will become easier to accurately calculate). This will help you avoid buying extra material.

Workers performing plastering work charge per sq.m. But this does not apply to special situations. For example, corners are charged per linear meter, not per square meter. This is due to the particular complexity of the work.

The way to save money can be as follows: you can plaster the walls yourself, and order more precise and scrupulous work to be done by professionals.

Types of plaster

Expanded clay concrete walls can be plastered with both cement-based and gypsum-based compounds.

Professional spray plastering of expanded clay concrete wall

Advantages of cement-sand plaster:

• the composition includes cement - a material that is present in the blocks themselves, which contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the wall surface;
• enhances the strength of masonry;
• suitable for interior and exterior decoration;
• possibility of cooking with your own hands.

Advantages of gypsum plaster:

• is not inferior in strength to cement-sand plaster;
• creates a smoother surface;
• has better thermal insulation properties compared to cement-sand mortar.

Plastering with cement-sand mortar

Plaster rooms with high humidity: kitchens, bathrooms, etc., and also it is better to cladding the outside of the building with cement-sand mortar.

Cement-sand mortar

An expanded clay wall does not require a thick layer of plaster; it is necessary to level the surface, hide the seams of the masonry, and cement-sand plaster on the outside of the building improves the waterproof qualities of the wall, protects the masonry from temperature changes, and creates a pleasant decorative look facade of the building.

It is possible to plaster expanded clay with a cement-sand composition without the use of reinforcing fine mesh, since usually the layer of plaster is no more than 1 centimeter. If you have the means, it is better to use it to increase the strength of the coating; it is very easily attached to expanded clay using dowel nails with a wide head, but this is not necessary.

It is enough to plaster the expanded clay in 2 thin layers, followed by grouting the dried mortar.

Do not forget to clean the surface from dust, debris and protruding masonry mortar before starting work. The solution must be chipped with a chisel.

Unlike gas silicate blocks and foam blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks do not absorb much moisture from the solution, so they can be plastered immediately without first passing a primer over the surface. It is enough to moisten the wall with water while applying the cement-sand mortar.

Gypsum based plaster

Gypsum plaster has a number of its advantages, which is why builders use it as often as cement-sand mortar.

Ready-made universal gypsum mixture

Gypsum plaster reduces the thermal conductivity of the building, it is much more flexible and easier to work with. The coating made from gypsum plaster is smoother and can be applied immediately. decorative finishing, perfect for wallpaper, painting. Thanks to modern technologies, compounds are added to gypsum plaster that increase its strength, so heavy materials can be glued to gypsum, just like cement-sand mortar. facing materials. The main thing here is to use a gypsum mixture designed specifically for heavy materials.

When plastering expanded clay concrete blocks with a gypsum-based composition, it is imperative to pre-treat the wall surface with agents that improve adhesion between it and the blocks. Such compositions are called “concrete contact”.

For wet rooms, use special gypsum mixtures, marked accordingly on the packaging.

Why do you need to plaster the walls of a house made of expanded clay concrete?

As mentioned above, plastering the walls of a residential building built from expanded clay concrete is recommended in most cases. For what? Let's think logically. building block, which is discussed in this article, is essentially expanded clay and a cement binder that allows it to maintain a given shape. At the same time, a huge mass of pores is formed in it, through which air circulates quite freely. As a result, unplastered walls made of such material will simply be blown out, which will make the home cold and uncomfortable.

Plastering only from the inside will not bring much reduction in heat loss, since cold air It will also freely penetrate the wall from the street, right down to the inner layers, pick up heat, and also freely exit. This is despite the fact that there should be no drafts in this case.

If the decision is made to finish expanded clay concrete house, it needs to be plastered, both inside and outside. High-quality external and internal plaster will significantly increase the service life of the walls, and will allow you to fully use the heat-insulating properties of the material - you will get something like a “thermos” that perfectly retains heat.

Basic requirements for plaster on expanded clay concrete blocks

The simplest and most economical finishing solution is plastering walls made of expanded clay blocks. Wall plaster can be an independent option finishing.

It is also recommended for further finishing decorative tiles or a stone. Application of the plaster composition is necessary to prepare the base of the walls for painting or wallpapering. As an option - finishing with decorative plaster.

Decorative plaster of the facade

Basic requirements for plastering materials for the blocks in question:

• High strength of the resulting coating.
• Creating moisture-resistant protection.
• Good adhesion to expanded clay concrete.
• Sufficient plasticity of the material.

Products made from lightweight concrete have low resistance to mechanical damage to the front surface. The porous structure of the material easily absorbs water, which, accumulating in the pores, eventually leads to the destruction of the material. Therefore, expanded clay blocks require good protection their surfaces from moisture and mechanical influences.

Reliable fixation of the plaster layer on the wall is achieved through good mutual adhesion of the materials. To avoid cracking of the plaster due to shrinkage of the wall masonry, sufficient ductility of the materials used is required.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Even in not so long ago, baths were built almost exclusively from timber and sometimes from brick, because these materials were considered optimal in terms of heat retention and moisture resistance. In addition, the tree was quite accessible to any builder. But accessibility does not mean durability - constant moisture relatively quickly began to render such structures unusable.

1. Preparation for construction
2. Foundation structure
3. Construction of a bathhouse
4. Finishing and insulation

The search for a worthy alternative continued for many years, but only today have materials appeared that can fully replace wood in the walls of a bathhouse.

Advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

One such material is expanded clay concrete blocks. They are made from several different components using vibrocompression. Expanded clay, which is foamed and baked clay, sand and cement, are mixed and compacted using vibration loads under high pressure. The result is a building material that is lightweight and highly durable.

The main advantages that distinguish expanded clay concrete blocks from other building materials include:

• absolute non-toxicity of expanded clay concrete blocks, which are among the most environmentally friendly materials;
• weak absorption of moisture by blocks, as a result they are not susceptible to destructive influence steam and water as opposed to wood;
• excellent thermal insulation properties, thanks to which heat is well retained inside the bathhouse without large-scale insulation work;
• the relative lightness of the wall blocks (8 kg), allowing you to build a bathhouse yourself, without seeking outside help.

Preparation for construction

Like the construction of any building, the construction of a bathhouse from expanded clay blocks begins with the creation of a project and the acquisition of the necessary materials in the right quantity.

For construction you will need:

• expanded clay concrete blocks;
• brick;
• waterproofing material;
• cement;
• wooden slats;
• lining;
• fastening material;
• roofing material.

Foundation structure

Typically, two types of foundations are used for a bathhouse: strip or columnar. Tape is a continuous strip of concrete or brick, outlining the contour of the structure being built. And the columnar one is supported by individual pillars. Walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks will not create a large load on the base, so a columnar foundation is better for a bathhouse.

Wall cladding options

Reduced heat transfer resistance of various enclosing structures.

Natural stone or ceramic tiles are installed directly on a wall made of expanded clay concrete blocks; there is no need for preparatory work. For better fastening of these materials, use tile adhesive or a mixture of cement and sand.

As noted earlier, the buildings of the sample in question are not left bare, unprotected from the external influences of nature. Of course, if we are not talking about high-quality facing bricks

Despite the fact that buildings made of expanded clay blocks are lightweight, it is very important to correctly calculate the foundation.

Therefore, the low weight of such materials does not provide grounds for constructing a lightweight version of the foundation. The disadvantage of such ceilings is their low thermal conductivity. Before facing external walls it is necessary to take care of carrying out warming measures.

Thus, mineral wool does not burn; a layer of plaster can be applied to it using a special mesh.

The same cannot be said about mineral wool. It is intended for decorating a building with siding and other materials in the form of panels. Mineral wool laid under the siding must be protected from the wind.

For such purposes, membranes are used that have the properties of protecting from wind and moisture. In this case, the insulation will be dry and provide reliable protection from rain and wind. There are also insulation materials based on mineral wool with a special durable layer on which plaster can be applied.

It is worth noting that external design walls of a house with panels made of plastic or siding will not be such a difficult undertaking, unlike finishing the surface with plaster. If plastering the base of a house can only be done by an experienced craftsman, then here you can do all the work yourself. Sometimes the method of painting walls without first plastering the surface is used, but it is used very rarely.

Diagram of the design of a heating block with expanded clay concrete.

One of the frequently used options for finishing the external shells of a house is ceramic, clinker and brick cladding.

The least expensive option would be to treat the surface with a layer of cement-sand plaster. The latter finishing option, together with facade paints, helps to create original surfaces and an unusual appearance. Plaster has the best possible contact with expanded clay concrete; it is actively used for bases that constantly change under the influence of external temperatures and are periodically damaged. The façade, lined with natural stone, looks very beautiful and original.

It is not afraid of frost, and at the same time it looks monolithic, chic and unusual. This material can be easily replaced artificial stone. It is no worse than the natural option, and it costs much less.

As a finishing option, thermal panels made of polyurethane and clinker tiles. This finishing method can be called the least expensive.

Panels of this type are lightweight and are often used with a strip base. They are strong, environmentally friendly, and create a stable microclimate in the room regardless of the season. Installation work is extremely simple; even a non-professional can do it.

Ventilated facades skillfully hide possible flaws in wall coverings. In the space between the wall and the facing layer there is a constant movement of air, as a result of which the base is not subject to destructive influence.

Siding can be considered an inexpensive option for decorating external walls. However, such panels are quite fragile and can break, which does not reflect well on a wall made of expanded clay concrete. Houses made from this material can last a century, but it is important to choose the right finishing option so that the foundation is reliably completed.

Aerated concrete is gaining increasing popularity as a building material. And this is not surprising. The large sizes of the blocks can significantly reduce construction time, and the cellular structure retains heat, allowing you to reduce heating costs. But this material requires serious protection from moisture.

Aluminum powder is added to the basic solution from which aerated concrete is made. At one stage of the technological process, this component releases gas, forming cells filled with air. In this case, the pores remain open and moisture quickly accumulates in them.

Therefore, the material is protected from precipitation both at the stage of wall construction and after the “box” of the house is ready. Moisture accumulated in autumn or spring time, will also quickly go away when exposed to sunlight. But in winter this factor will be destructive. And over time, small cracks will appear on the walls, and then peeling.

In addition, aerated concrete has the following characteristics:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Strength depends on the foundation. If it shrinks strongly, then cracks will soon appear on the gas block.
• Durability if the material is protected from water.
• Fire and environmental safety.
• Soundproofing properties.
• High vapor permeability, which makes homes comfortable, since internal vapors quickly escape outside rather than accumulating indoors.
• High levels of moisture absorption, which forces the house to be lined with moisture-repellent materials.

When is the best time to plaster aerated concrete walls?

Most often, plastering is chosen for finishing aerated block walls. But you should choose right time to perform the work, as well as a suitable composition. We’ll look at the type of plaster for the facade a little lower, and now we’ll look at the timing of the finishing work.

1. You should not plaster immediately after construction. The walls are given time to completely dry and shrink. It's enough to wait a year. If this is not done, cracks will appear on the finish.
2. Choose a warm season when the night temperature does not drop below 0 degrees. In such a situation, the moisture that the aerated concrete absorbs from the solution will quickly be released and the finish will dry.
3. To protect the walls from moisture and frost in winter, they are covered with deep penetration soil. Under such protection, the house will withstand the load of one frosty season without changes in the structure.
4. Polyethylene film is also suitable as a barrier for unlined walls.

Is it necessary to first insulate the outside?

As mentioned above, walls made of this building material retain heat well. Therefore, if you correctly calculate the thickness of the structure, there is no need to insulate the house. It is better to do this by using the services of professionals. They take into account the climatic conditions of the region where the structure is being built.

You should not make the walls too thin so that they need additional insulation, since choosing insulation will be difficult. An aerated concrete structure has high vapor permeability, and if the thermal insulation fails to cope with this task, condensation will appear on the outside of the wall. This will lead to both the destruction of aerated concrete and insulation.

If it is necessary to carry out insulation, then choose a material that can allow steam to pass through from the interior. According to the rules prescribed in State acts, the vapor transmission capacity from the internal walls to the external decoration should increase. Only in this case will it be comfortable to be in the rooms, and mold and mildew will never settle on the walls.

What mixtures are best to use?

When choosing a mixture for plastering aerated block walls, note the presence of the following properties:

• Moisture repellent.
• Good adhesion to the base.
• Low temperature resistance.
• Elasticity.
• Decorative.

Range construction stores offers several types of plaster mixtures. They all have positive and negative aspects to use. It is especially important to use for plastering aerated concrete. suitable options. Therefore, we will consider each type separately.

Lime-cement

This is an example of thin-layer lightweight plaster. It is used only for interior work. It is not worth using ordinary cement mortar. It does not have the necessary characteristics to preserve the properties of our material. But with the addition of lime, everything changes:

1. The mixture adheres well to the base.
2. Apply a thin layer.
3. The vapor permeability of the solution increases.
4. The finish is durable.
5. Inert to the appearance of mold fungi.
6. Affordable low cost.

There are, of course, several disadvantages:

• The finished solution hardens quickly, making it difficult to work with, especially for a beginner.
• A high consumption per square meter implies an increase in costs, even if the cost of the product is low.
• The solution is prepared independently, since only the dry mixture is sold.

Acrylic

This option is used for decorative facade finishing of aerated block houses. It is applied in a thin layer, but has a number of advantages:

1. durable;
2. elastic;
3. resistant to low temperatures;
4. the color retains its original brightness for a long time;
5. helps strengthen the foundation in places where the load is increased;
6. repels moisture.

Despite the large number of advantages, there are some disadvantages that raise serious doubts about the correct use of acrylic compositions for aerated concrete:

• Low vapor permeability. Waterproofing is installed on the base or a ventilation system is built in the house.
• Acrylic composition is highly flammable, so it is not suitable for wall areas near fire.
• High price.

Silicate

Compositions based on liquid glass are excellent for both interior and exterior decoration. This plaster is sold only in finished form. Mix it thoroughly before use. The main advantages are:

1. vapor permeability;
2. moisture-repellent properties;
3. large selection of textures;
4. affordable price.

But before plastering aerated concrete, it is worth studying the disadvantages that exist here, like any other material:

• Dirt and dust accumulate on the finishing surface, which reduces the attractiveness of the coating.
• Small selection of colors and shades.

Silicone

This option is made on the basis of silicone emulsions or resins. It is excellent for finishing facade walls. It has the following undeniable advantages:

1. Hydrophobic (repels moisture, practically does not get wet).
2. Vapor permeability.
3. It’s easy to apply, making it suitable for those who decide to do it themselves.
4. Plastic.
5. Crack-resistant.
6. Retains its original color for a long time.
7. Easy to clean from dust and dirt.

The only drawback is the price, which is an order of magnitude higher than previous options. But is it worth saving your time and day if the material has so many advantages?

Cement-sand

The most famous and affordable option for plaster mixtures, which is perfect for different substrates. But aerated concrete cannot withstand the use of a cement-sand mixture. Everything is due to the lack of certain characteristics.

Is cement mortar suitable for these purposes?

If a beginner gets down to business, then he should learn all the intricacies of plastering aerated concrete. One of these nuances is the impossibility of using a conventional cement-sand mixture. The reasons for this are:

• Low steam transmission capacity.
• The solution has a large amount of moisture. The gas block quickly absorbs water and then releases it for a long time, which increases the time required to complete the work. In addition, when moisture quickly evaporates, cement plaster loses its strength, resulting in cracks.
• Aerated concrete has a smooth surface, and the cement-sand mixture has low adhesion rates. Therefore, the solution does not adhere well to the base and can slide off during work. To avoid this, the walls are coated with aerated concrete primer, but this does not always help.

1. Add lime to the usual solution.
2. Mix a special mixture for aerated concrete blocks and cement mortar in a 1x1 ratio.

What about adhesive for porous concrete?

A special adhesive mixture, which is intended for laying aerated concrete, should also not be chosen as a material for plastering walls. Although the glue was developed taking into account all the nuances of using a porous material, it is not suitable for plaster:

• Apply only a thin layer.
• Designed for grouting joints.
• Does not have the ability to pass steam. Which leads to the appearance of condensation on the internal walls, and then mold.

This material is used only for its intended purpose.

Interior decoration

It is customary to carry out internal leveling of walls using plaster first. Thus, the moisture that is absorbed from the solution will leave the thickness of the wall faster. on internal walls made of aerated concrete are not much different from plastering other surfaces. Follow this plan:

1. Preparing the base. Removal of bumps and other irregularities. It is better to do this while the walls are being erected, since in the future this will lead to increased waste of mortar.
2. Padding. It is advisable to choose deep penetration soil, especially for rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom or kitchen. Never dilute the primer with water. This reduces the quality of the soil layer.
3. – help control the thickness of the applied layer. The distance between elements is slightly less than the length of the rule.
4. Spray or throw on the first layer. The solution should not reach the top edge of the beacons.
5. Forming corners using a perforated profile with reinforcing mesh.
6. Applying the second layer. The thickness will be less. The solution is also poured, but is immediately leveled by the rule. At the same stage, beacons are removed.

If the surface is to be painted or covered with wallpaper, the surface should be made perfectly smooth. To do this, apply a finishing layer and rub it in.

Outdoor

After the interior work is completed, they begin to improve the façade. Be sure to check the dryness of aerated concrete. Plaster applied to wet walls may peel off. It is also important to choose the weather conditions:

• The optimal temperature is from +5 to +25 degrees Celsius.
• No wind.
• Air humidity is no more than 80%.
• It is better to hide the walls from direct sunlight.

Preparing the wall

Aerated concrete has a smooth, even surface, and therefore there is no additional need to level the walls. But during the masonry process, sometimes small voids appear in the seams or chips on the blocks. They are sealed with the same glue on which the material was laid.

All flaws are filled with the solution and left until completely dry. Therefore, the treated areas are rubbed with a metal grater in order to remove the protruding solution. Remove dust with a brush or damp cloth, but make sure that the material is not too wet.

Padding

For priming façade walls, deep penetration compounds are chosen. They create a durable film that prevents the absorption of moisture, but at the same time steam passes through quietly. Also, an additional layer will increase the adhesion of the plaster and the base.

The soil is applied in several layers, depending on the climatic conditions of the area. To do this, use a roller or brush. The composition completely covers all walls without bald spots. If there are corners or other inaccessible places, they are treated with a small brush.

Plastering and reinforcement

Reinforcing mesh must be used, even if the layer is small, about 1 cm, and the base is well treated with soil. This will make the plaster layer durable and reliable. Select a fiberglass product that is resistant to alkali.

Reinforcement and plastering are carried out simultaneously, following the following plan:

1. Cutting the mesh into strips.
2. Prepare the solution according to the instructions indicated on the package if you purchased a dry mixture. The finished solution is simply mixed so that all components are evenly distributed.
3. Scoop the solution onto a wide spatula and spread it evenly over the surface, about 0.5 cm thick.
4. A special perforated profile with reinforcing mesh is applied to the corner. The mesh is smoothed over the applied solution.
5. Next, separate pieces of mesh are laid. Be sure to make a 5–10 cm overlap. The reinforcement is smoothed by immersing it in the solution. In places where it shows through, add a little mixture and smooth it out again.
6. The surface is treated in small areas with the expectation of complete use of the finished solution.

After the entire facade has been plastered, it is left to dry completely. There should be no imperfections or protruding reinforcement on the surface.

Finishing layer

A decorative composition is chosen as the finishing coating. The solution is either prepared according to the instructions or mixed in a container. Apply with a wide spatula. The layer does not exceed 0.5–1 cm. At this stage, work especially carefully, since the remaining flaws will be noticeable.

When the layer dries a little, it is rubbed and either a smooth surface or a texture is created, respectively. Then the layer must dry completely and only after that you can start painting, if necessary. , in this case, is selected as carefully as the mixture for plastering.

The construction of houses from gas silicate blocks is one of the most promising areas in the field of private construction. In particular, aerated concrete blocks have become very popular, during the production of which special additives are introduced into the solution, causing abundant gas formation. As a result, aerated concrete has a pronounced open porous structure, which determines its significant advantages over other materials for masonry walls.

However, such a structure of aerated concrete also brings a number of difficulties in finishing the constructed walls. This requires a special approach, both in the sequence of work and in the materials used. In addition, the plastering of aerated concrete walls indoors will also depend on their planned exterior decoration.

What is the “capriciousness” of aerated concrete in matters of finishing, and how can these problems be solved? These are the issues that this publication is devoted to.

Features of aerated concrete

But you should go through the materials for the work in more detail.

• The open porous structure of aerated concrete will not allow you to limit yourself to just filling the walls - a thin layer simply will not stay on such a surface. Therefore, even if the wall is laid out with the highest precision and does not require any special adjustments to its plane, you still cannot do without plaster. And on the aerated concrete wall you will have to “throw” a layer of at least 5 mm.
• Such a layer will be subject to cracking and crumbling (affected by the adhesive properties of the highly porous structure) if it is not reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. If on other wall materials the use of reinforcing mesh is desirable, then in the case of aerated concrete this condition should be considered as mandatory. The best mesh is fiberglass, resistant to an alkaline environment, so that over time it simply does not dissolve in the thickness of the hardened plaster mass.

Applications of fiberglass reinforcement stacks - required condition quality plaster

• Aerated concrete walls have high moisture absorption. As experienced painters say, this material literally “drinks” water. It would seem that this is not bad for good adhesion, but it turns out just the opposite. Aerated concrete “sucks” moisture from the applied concrete, which causes it to quickly dry out, crack and crumble - in the case of gypsum compositions, and disrupt the normal hydration of cement if plasters based on it are used. In both cases, the quality of the coating will be low, and the finish itself will be extremely short-lived.

It is important to find the right “humidity balance”, otherwise the work will be of poor quality

On the other hand, excessive saturation of aerated concrete with water is also fraught negative consequences. And such a wall is very difficult - the applied solution begins to “creep”, the layer becomes loose or heterogeneous, etc.

Which exit?

— you can use special plaster mixtures specifically for aerated concrete, intended for interior finishing work. Their component composition, when properly mixed with water, in accordance with the instructions, is completely optimized for the characteristics of such a surface and sometimes does not even require preliminary priming of the surface. All this is necessarily indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for use of the composition.

- use of special deep penetration primers. Here, however, balance is also important - oversaturation of aerated concrete with impregnating compounds can lead to the opposite effect, since the absorbency of the surface for applying plaster to it is still important.

In both cases, professional craftsmen do not advise immediately giving a thick outline - it is best to limit yourself to a minimum layer in which the reinforcing fiberglass mesh is embedded. This layer is not required large quantity moisture, it is much easier to “rub” it into aerated concrete with force, and the reinforcement will create a solid base, without cracks. But after such a substrate has dried, you can safely move on to the main plastering on the beacons.

Video: the work of a master plastering an aerated concrete wall

As already mentioned, the composition of the plaster mixture directly depends on whether the wall needs to retain its high vapor-permeable properties, or, conversely, to make it as difficult as possible for moisture to penetrate into the material.

• In the first case, preference is often given to special gypsum-based plastering compositions, which often include light perlite sand. Usually, the instructions for use of the composition indicate that it is combined with aerated concrete (gas silicate) walls. Classic example similar mixtures - “Plaster” or “Osnovit-Gipswell” plaster.

Manufacturers claim that applying such compounds does not even require a reinforcing mesh. But in the case of aerated concrete, it is better not to ignore this point.

• Silicate plasters, based on , are very well suited for aerated concrete, especially in terms of vapor permeability. However, such wall decoration will significantly limit the owners in the choice of finishing coating, since silicate mixtures are incompatible with many other organic-based decorative compositions - acrylic, silicone, latex, etc.
• Cement-lime based plasters have been developed specifically for aerated concrete or similar surfaces. Their composition is optimized specifically for surfaces that do not even require preliminary priming before plastering. An example is Baumit HandPutz plaster or a mixture from a set of a whole “ensemble” of solutions specially designed for AeroStone aerated concrete.

The composition of such plasters includes cement, building lime, special lightweight aggregates and plasticizing additives, and fine-grained purified sand. This coating has good vapor permeability and can be used for both external and internal work on aerated concrete.

• If the owners of the house plan to achieve minimal vapor permeability of the walls from the inside, then they usually resort to using cement-sand plasters without the inclusion of lime or dolomite chips (flour). Naturally, the composition usually includes special plasticizing additives that inhibit the adhesion of the created coating to the porous base.

All specialized mixtures for gas silicate surfaces have one common drawback - they are quite expensive, and with large volumes of work, such internal plastering of walls will cost a hefty sum. But this is only preliminary leveling, without taking into account the finishing! Is it possible to do something simpler, use more affordable mixtures or even ordinary homemade plaster solutions, for example, based on cement and sand?

It is possible, but only an experienced craftsman can perform such a finish efficiently, whose many years of practice allows him to “by eye” determine the condition of the wall, the need for it to be moistened or primed, and the exact component composition of the plaster. And without experience in such work, make a mistake on aerated concrete surface- as simple as shelling pears, and all the work will be done down the drain.

However, we can highly recommend interesting way preliminary preparation of the gas silicate wall for further preparation. If you do everything in accordance with the recommendations, you can apply almost any plaster composition without fear of cracks appearing, the solution slipping, its rapid drying out, or, conversely, excessive waterlogging of the wall.

How can you properly prepare an internal aerated concrete wall for plastering?

To work, you will need the usual, most inexpensive of all those presented in the store, adhesive for ceramic tiles, fiberglass mesh, deep penetration primer (regular, such as Ceresit CT 17). And then it will be possible to plaster with any composition on gypsum, cement, cement-lime and other bases. In particular, the usual cement-sand mixture, even in a ratio of 1:5, is quite suitable.

Determining in advance the amount of plaster mixture to put the wall in order is quite difficult, since it depends on the condition of the surface, its evenness, the presence and depth of level differences both vertically and horizontally. But our calculator will help you determine the amount of materials for the preparatory cycle.

It takes into account the conditions for priming the surface in two layers, with the primer being diluted with water during the initial application, and the creation of a preparatory reinforced adhesive layer 5 mm thick. Calculations will show the result with a 15% reserve “just in case” accepted among builders and finishers.

The calculation is carried out for rectangular surfaces, minus window and door openings.

Aerated concrete blocks have become a trend in individual housing developments. Increasingly, they are also used in multi-story construction, when they are used to lay out internal as well as external walls in frame-block buildings.

Attention: this material discusses aerated concrete. Another material with a similar name is used in construction - gas silicate concrete (gas silicate). This is a completely different material both in components and characteristics. It contains very little cement, only 14%. Therefore, all recommendations for aerated concrete blocks are unacceptable for it - there is practically no adhesion to cement-sand mixtures.

Aerated block is a compact and lightweight building material. Its masonry when constructing walls does not require special skills, which allows people without special construction education to build warm and inexpensive housing with their own hands. At the same time, this material is very “capricious” in matters of finishing.

Features of aerated concrete in terms of plastering

The peculiarities of aerated concrete lie in its production technology. This is the only building material that has small channels through it, which create two serious problems for walls:

• easily blown by moderate winds;
• have high vapor permeability.

The first problem can be solved by finishing the walls both indoors and outdoors, and therefore the question “is it necessary to plaster walls made of aerated concrete blocks” disappears by itself. High vapor permeability can only be achieved with the proper use of finishing technologies.

Here, even minor mistakes due to ignorance of the nuances of finishing work can have fatal consequences. For example, the order in which walls are plastered inside and outside a building directly determines its durability, which will be discussed below.

When preparing to plaster the surface of walls made of aerated concrete blocks, the following points must be taken into account:

• Even the densest aerated concrete under concentrated impacts, for example, with a hammer on a chisel, breaks off and cracks. Therefore, the preparation of such walls for plastering differs significantly from the same work in relation to brickwork.
• Presence of open pores in aerated concrete blocks does not allow the use of putty to finish walls - a thin layer of it simply will not stick to them, although the quality of the surface allows this method to correct minor errors in their installation. Therefore, it is necessary to plaster with a layer of at least 5 mm.
• The low adhesive properties of porous structures, which include aerated concrete, require the mandatory use of either expensive primers or fiberglass reinforcing mesh (other materials dissolve in the alkaline environment of hardened plaster).
• The high vapor permeability of the material dictates the following order of work on plastering walls: first, the plastering is carried out indoors, and then, after the inner layer of the mortar has dried, outside. If the order is reversed or work is carried out simultaneously on both sides, then moisture will be trapped inside the wall, which will destroy it during frosts.

How to plaster aerated concrete

How to plaster aerated concrete walls inside a house? There is no clear answer to this question. If you buy ready-made plaster mixtures, then there are no problems other than the financial component. Dry plaster on various bases is always available for sale:

• lime and cement - the most popular mixture for plastering aerated concrete walls;
• liquid glass (silicate mixture) - the most cheap look dry mortar, but incompatible with decorative plaster based on acrylic, silicone, latex;
• silicone - the highest quality plaster mixture with, naturally, the highest price;
• cement and mineral chips that replace sand.

For reference: there are also acrylic mixtures on sale, but they are best used for decorative plaster.

Buying ready-made plaster will seriously affect the family budget, so you need to consider options for preparing the solution yourself. So which plaster is better for plastering aerated concrete walls? There are two blocks of answers here, depending on the type of prepared adhesion between the wall and the plaster.

1. The plaster mortar is applied directly to the wall, pre-treated with a penetrating primer with the slots cut with a chainsaw (the slots are necessary for better adhesion of the mortar to aerated concrete).
2. Plastering the wall is done using a plaster mesh mounted on a special glue, which has become fashionable lately.

In the first case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material:

• the presence of cement and lime components;
• porosity;
• high vapor permeability.

This unusual combination of properties near the wall immediately removes cement mortar and sand from the list of mixtures. It adheres very poorly to such a surface, even when applying a high-quality primer.

Here you need to use:

• gypsum with light perlite sand;
• gypsum with lime;
• lime with cement, fine sand, aggregates and plasticizer.

In the second case, any combination of mortar components is allowed, including cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 5.

Calculation of material consumption

When starting work on applying a plaster layer, it is important not to make a mistake with the amount of material purchased. Let us immediately note that it is impossible to calculate absolutely exactly how much of something will be needed - it is impossible to take into account all the differences in height of the wall surface, as well as the presence of a vertical wall. But, with a slight error in any direction, calculations can be made.

You should start by determining the area that needs to be plastered. To do this, multiply the length of each wall by its height and add the results together. From the resulting number, subtract the area of ​​doors and windows. We multiply the final result by the average thickness of the plaster, resulting in the amount of mortar in m3.

For reference: the last multiplier is the average result of adding the thickest and smallest layers of plaster, which is determined during the installation of the beacons.

Tools required for work

To work you will need the following tools and accessories:

• stepladder (you can prepare a special portable platform - sawhorses);
• Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver;
• metal profiles for lighthouses;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• rule with a level 2.0-2.5 m long;
• metal scissors (grinder);
• hammer:
• paint brush (spray gun or roller);
• primer tray;

Attention: experienced professionals use two rules. A short one, no more than 1.5 m, is more convenient for leveling the applied plaster, a long one is for checking the quality of the work performed.

• construction (bubble) level;
• steel brush or scraper (another name for cutting);
• container for preparing plaster;
• hacksaw or chainsaw;
• falcon;
• trowel, also has other names - trowel, plaster spatula;
• grater;
• grater;
• fry;
• ironer;
• set of spatulas.

Attention: details about the purpose of each tool and their photos can be found in the material “”.

Surface preparation

Plastering aerated concrete walls indoors should begin with preparing the surface. The durability of the plaster largely depends on the quality of the preparatory work. Many years of experience shows that work should be performed in a clear sequence:

1. all general construction and installation work on installing the floor, installing door and window units, etc. are completed;
2. the walls are cleared of old plaster, paint, wallpaper and whitewash;
3. wall blocks are repaired (if necessary);
4. various types of contaminants are removed.

Attention: the technology for performing the above work is described in detail in the material “Preparation of surfaces for plastering”.

The next, most important stage of work when plastering aerated concrete is ensuring adhesion (adhesion) of the plaster to the wall. There are two options: apply the solution to a primed wall or to a plaster mesh. The second option is gaining popularity, so we will consider it in more detail.

To work, you need to buy a deep penetration primer for aerated concrete (Ceresit), tile adhesive (for ceramic products - Knauf, Yunis 2000, etc.) and fiberglass plaster mesh.

The step-by-step instructions are not very complicated.

• Two layers of penetrating primer are applied to the wall. For the first layer, in order to saturate the aerated concrete with moisture, the soil is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. For the second layer, its consumption should be in the range of 150-180 g/m2. To apply the solution, you can use all known methods: roller, brush, garden sprayer, compressor, etc. The second layer is applied only after the first layer has completely dried.

• The diluted glue is applied to the dried primer with a trowel. The work is carried out from the bottom up, with a width slightly larger than a roll of reinforcing mesh. The thickness of the layer after leveling should be within 5 mm.

Attention: dilute tile adhesive and work with it in strict accordance with the instructions printed on the package.

• A mesh cut to length, flush with the ceiling, is sunk into the glue, and then the same is done below, near the floor. Using a spatula with teeth 5-6 mm long, the plaster mesh is pressed as deep as possible into the glue. Work is carried out from top to bottom. At first, the movements of the spatula can be chaotic, but in the final stage they can be strictly horizontal. This is necessary to form horizontal ordered strips about 5 mm high from the glue squeezed out through the mesh, which will serve as an ideal connecting element between the wall and the plaster solution.

Missing the glue surface is not allowed. Work is carried out one by one on each mesh sheet. Each subsequent mesh should overlap the previous one by 10 cm. For ease of joining, several vertical stripes are drawn along the edge of the glue-treated strip with a spatula (later, during the work, they should be converted into horizontal stripes).

How to plaster aerated concrete walls inside a house when reinforcing the wall with plaster mesh and tile adhesive? This combination of reinforcing mesh with glue allows the use of any type of plaster currently used in construction.

When can plastering begin after masonry?

When building a house from aerated concrete, you should not rush to finish the walls both inside and outside the building. Even when placed on glue, the blocks will still shrink - this is their property. There is no need to explain what will happen to the plaster on the wall that has shrunk - continuous cracks and complete replacement plaster layer.

Experts say that after the construction of the wall, you must wait 7 months, and only after that begin plastering work. However, we cannot agree with this recommendation. Simply erecting walls does not lead to their shrinkage - there is no pressure on the blocks. Only after the roof is erected does the full shrinkage process begin. Therefore, the countdown should be carried out from the moment the roofing work is completed.

Plastering technology

How to plaster aerated concrete walls indoors? The technology for plastering aerated concrete walls indoors is the same as for other types of walls.

For reference: in the overwhelming majority, beacons are not installed for walls made of aerated concrete. This is due to the flat surface of the wall after laying the blocks - the strict geometry of the material and the thin connecting seam make it easy to maintain the vertical. Beacon guides are used only when there is a loss of verticality, which occurs as a result of settlement of the foundation. The process of installing them on the wall is outlined in the work “”.

• The solution is mixed in small portions.
• Before work, the plaster should “rest” for a few minutes.
• When applied to bare wall plastering work is carried out in three layers, on a mesh with glue - in two (primer and covering).
• The spray solution is prepared in a 1:2 ratio to the consistency of sour cream.
• Applying plaster begins from the lower left corner. They lead from bottom to top, from left to right. The thickness of the spray is 4-5 mm. It is applied with a trowel by sharply throwing a small amount of mortar onto the wall.

• The soil is placed with a thicker solution (approximately like bread dough) and a different ratio of cement and sand - 1:5. Apply after the spray has completely dried. The thickness of the soil should not exceed 2.0 cm. It is applied to the wall with a trowel. Then the rule is leveled. Finishing soil is carried out with a grater. They can work left and right, up and down. If the soil layer thickness exceeds 2 cm, then the correct solution is to apply it twice.