Regardless of the quality of the laminate purchased, great attention should be paid to preparatory measures. This applies not only to pouring screed or replacing an old wooden floor, but also to priming the floor. Otherwise about long service period flooring you can forget. The specifics of priming the floor before laying laminate depend on the surface that will be treated.

Surface Requirements

When choosing laminate flooring, the base will require high-quality preparation. The very basis of the requirement will be . For two meters of room length, only a height difference of 2 mm is allowed. If this figure is higher, you will have to tinker with the alignment.

If there is a slope in the room, it should be uniform and of high quality. A slope of 4 mm is allowed per two meters of the room. Before applying primer to the floor, allow time to completely dry foundations, be it concrete or wood. Otherwise, there is no need to talk about any quality. And the coating itself will begin to swell over a short time.

Another requirement is cleanliness. If even fine sand, dirt, or dust remains under the laminate, squeaking and an unpleasant sound will occur while walking on it. Therefore, you will have to make every effort to carry out the cleaning.

All this shows that laminate flooring requires very quality basis, to which maximum effort is made in preparation, as well as priming. Only in this case will the service life of the floor covering be increased.

Primer functions

A primer is generally used to increase the level of adhesion - the adhesion of one material to another. But this is only the main function, since there is also sufficient quantity others that the primer exhibits when used on the base before laying the laminate as a floor covering:

• Dust most often becomes an obstacle to gluing the material. All these particles are perfectly bonded to each other using an applied primer. This means that she will cope with such a problem very easily.
• When treating the floor with a primer, the likelihood of such occurrences is virtually eliminated. negative consequences like mold and mildew. All this can be harmful to oneself, as well as to human health.
• The subfloor underneath the flooring will have the quality of being moisture resistant.
• Powerful traction of all materials in a bundle. Even existing minor voids under the laminate will be filled with a pre-prepared primer. In addition, there are primers deep penetration capable of completing the task quickly and efficiently.

Laminate on concrete base

To cope with height differences in the area in the room, self-leveling mixtures are usually used, which are presented in an assortment of hardware store. The stages of work are as follows:

This is the whole process of how to perform before laminate, after which you can begin laying the flooring on the surface of the concrete floor. It is worth remembering that work on laying the coating can only begin when the leveling mass has dried. Usually everything takes several days.

If there are significant potholes in the base, filling should be carried out concrete mortar. As in the case described above, the surface must undergo a priming stage before applying the solution. Only then is the screed performed before laying the laminate. In this case, the mixture will not crumble during operation and spoil the floor covering, creating extraneous sounds while walking.

Choosing a primer for concrete

The concrete surface under the laminate cannot accept all types of primers presented in the store. This should be approached carefully so that all positive traits. The best choice is an acrylic mixture and an epoxy compound that can be used to prime the floor before laying the laminate.

Acrylic mixture is considered as universal remedy. It can be used not only on concrete, but also on drywall, wooden bases, and even synthetic materials.

The epoxy solution is formulated directly for application to concrete base. During operation, it can withstand various chemicals, while protecting the surface from moisture and destruction of layers.

If necessary, antiseptics can be added to the primer mixture. This will eliminate the possibility of the development of fungus and similar microflora.

It is worth noting that the primer is applied in several layers. The first layer should dry for 6-8 hours, after which the second layer is applied. Installation of the laminate does not begin immediately after the primer layer. An additional layer is first made in the form of a substrate, which can be cork or foamed polyethylene. The substrate performs heat-insulating and moisture-proof functions. In addition, the noise level coming from the lower floors will be noticeably reduced.

Laying laminate flooring on a wooden surface

Many people think about whether the floor is primed before wooden base. Over time, wood floors can begin to rot and lose their original appearance. This should be carefully checked before priming the surface before laying laminate flooring. If there are damaged boards, it is best to replace them with new ones, rather than experiment, wondering whether you need to prime the floor before laying the laminate or not.

If there are minor differences in floor level, you can use a method such as scraping. Large floor errors can only be hidden if installed correctly. There are also alternative materials, which will differ in quality and cost. The choice remains with the performer. In any case, you need to prime the floor before laminate.

It is also imperative to eliminate areas where the wooden floor sag. This is not permissible for laying laminate flooring, as it will fail very quickly. The existing creaking noise when walking on wooden boards will also appear when walking on laminate flooring. To avoid this, you should carry out the preparatory measures correctly. When all the initial steps have been completed, you should think about choosing a specific primer option.

Selecting a primer for wood

You shouldn’t even think about whether you need to prime before laying laminate flooring. The main thing is to choose suitable option material. The most optimal primer composition for a wooden base is a universal alkyd mixture. But this solution is usually used on other surfaces before laying laminate flooring.
For wood, you can also purchase polystyrene primer. True, in this case, all measures should be taken to ensure high-quality ventilation of the room where the work is being carried out. This is due to the fact that the primer mixture contains a large number of toxic substances that may have negative impact on the state of human health.

The shellac mixture for priming the floor before is special. The peculiarity is that it is used on coniferous and freshly laid wood.

The laminate itself is not laid on a wooden base coated with a primer, but on an additional layer. It is worth noting that the flooring should be laid perpendicular to the previously laid boards.

Application Features

When a specific primer option has been selected, you should think about how to apply it correctly. Beforehand, the entire surface is cleaned to the maximum, as with each type of work. Even everything greasy spots It is best to remove, for which a solvent is used.

The primer can only be applied to flat surface. All wet areas must be completely dry to work on. One coat of primer will not be enough. You should give it time to dry and proceed with further application of the layer. Drying time is different quantities time. Everything is written in the instructions from the manufacturers, which is what you should pay attention to. It is worth paying attention to the fact that long periods of time between applied layers will lead to the appearance of dust on the surface.

The standard version of the applied primer is two layers. Do I need to prime the floor additionally before laying laminate flooring? If the base is too porous, you will have to use more layers to achieve the desired result.

Treating the floor surface before priming will increase the service life of the floor covering itself, eliminate the likelihood of mold and mildew, and protect against moisture penetration. The main thing is to choose the right specific composition for application to a concrete or wooden base, which must be carefully prepared. Not only will the service life of the coating increase, but it will also be possible to get rid of the negative manifestations of the base floor in the room.

IN last decades Laminate has become a common type of flooring. Initially it was intended to reproduce appearance parquet, but over time it gained popularity due to its relatively low cost, ease of assembly, low maintenance requirements, and variety of patterns.

Structurally, laminate is a prefabricated covering, the panels of which, when connected to each other, form a flat floor. The advantage of laminate is its structure of several layers, each of which performs its own function:

1. The upper one performs the function of resistance to abrasion and stress.
2. Decorative - a layer with an image that in appearance resembles natural wood, tile, stone, or any other fancy design.
3. HDF (High Density Fibreboard) board.
4. The bottom (stabilizing) layer protects the base from moisture and stabilizes the geometry of the slab.

The advantages of laminate flooring include its extraordinary ease of assembly. The individual panels are simply connected to each other using special locks; they are not attached to the floor. This makes it possible, in case of emergency, to disassemble the coating without damaging it.

Does not require laminate and additional processing after correct installation(sanding, varnish, etc.), and cleaning such a floor is extremely simple.

There are also disadvantages. For example, low water resistance. Of course, a modern product will withstand prolonged contact with water, but it is still undesirable to allow this to happen. Such a floor, of course, can be washed, but carefully, using special products.

The disadvantages include the fact that fiberboard is an excellent resonator; steps and falling solid objects will respond quite loud sound. You can quickly get used to this or use special noise-insulating pads.

Conditions for laying laminate flooring

To obtain a durable and even floor, the following conditions must be met:

1. The air in the room where it is planned to lay the coating should have a humidity of 40-70% and a temperature ranging from 15 to 30 ° C.
2. It is necessary to acclimatize the material for 48 hours in the same room to avoid changes in the size of the panels.
3. The base of the floor must be rigid and level, which can be easily checked using a level. Deviations should not exceed 2 mm per 1 m. The base can be concrete screed, wooden floor, floor tiles, linoleum.
4. Before laying the laminate, you need to make sure that the base surface is dry and clean; if necessary, debris can be removed with a vacuum cleaner.
5. The laminate floor must be installed only on a special lining, which will provide thermal and sound insulation of the floor. Additionally, to protect against steam and moisture, you must use a thin plastic film, placing it under the substrate.
6. Under no circumstances should boards with visible defects be used.

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Preparatory work

Before laying the laminate on a concrete screed, it is necessary to ensure that the base is uniform and free of defects.

The laminate is laid on a new screed only after it has completely dried (a month after pouring).

If the coating is changed on a ready-made screed, then its integrity must be ensured. For small unevenness and cracks, concrete can be filled with a self-leveling mixture. If the damage is significant, it is better to re-screed.

The screed can be concrete or cement-sand. Cement is used in both cases, the difference lies in the base: in the first case it is crushed stone screening, in the second it is sand. Both options are quite suitable for laying laminate flooring. The preparation of the solution also varies slightly: for a cement-sand screed, take 4 parts of sand to 1 part of cement (grade 400), for concrete - 5-7 parts of screenings and 1 part of cement.

Before pouring, beacons must be installed, for which a special profile is suitable. Its thickness depends on the desired screed height. The distance between the profiles should be less than the rule (10-15 cm) in order to have freedom of movement when pulling the mortar along the beacons. The latter need to dry for 24 hours, after which you can pour the screed. After another day, the poured screed must be leveled with a trowel. Drying time takes from 7 to 21 days. Let it be longer excess moisture no use for laminate.

A floor that has an old and not entirely level screed can be leveled using a special mixture, but only if the differences are no more than 2 cm. To do this, draw a line along the perimeter of the room at floor level. The mixture is prepared according to the instructions and spread over the floor with a spatula. To prevent the presence of air bubbles, you can use a roller with a needle surface (on a long handle). The entire surface must be filled at one time. After completing the work, the floor must dry for at least three days.

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Materials and tools you will need when laying laminate flooring

Before laying the laminate on the screed, you must ensure that there is the right tool. You can purchase ready-made kits or assemble everything you need separately. In any case, you will need:

• tools for marking, namely pencil, square, tape measure (5-7 m);
• hammer (to ensure tight joining of panels);
• a jigsaw or a hacksaw with fine teeth (to make the corners of the plinth you will need a miter box and an angle cutter);
• perforator;
• tamping block (preferably plastic) to soften the blow;
• restrictive wedges (to fix the distance between the structure and the wall);
• metal bracket (for padding the edge panel).

To install a laminate floor you will need:

• laminate panels;
• baseboard;
• corners for baseboards;
• pipe linings (to hide gaps around the pipe);
• threshold (to hide interior passages or a flexible connecting profile);
• backing (cork, foamed polypropylene, sawdust mat coniferous trees, expanded polystyrene);
• polyethylene film.

Laminate flooring is a common choice for those looking to renovate their floors. And this is not surprising, since laminated coating looks beautiful, durable, does not create difficulties in operation and installation. Except for one “but”: laminate categorically does not like being laid on an uneven surface.

The height differences for this coating cannot be more than 2 mm per 2 meters of floor, and the slope cannot be more than 4 mm for the same surface length. Otherwise, under constant load, the laminate will begin to take the shape of an uneven base, and this will lead to the destruction of locks, creaking, and even breakage of coating elements.

In addition to the smoothness of the floor, laminate is also demanding on humidity, so the coating underneath must be reliably protected from water vapor. And the last requirement is the cleanliness of the base. Dust, sand and crumbs of different origins will be the reason unpleasant sounds: crunching, creaking, and will also lead to abrasion of the substrate.

Therefore, before laying the laminate flooring, it is necessary to prepare the floor. It is believed that it can be laid on any surface, as long as it is hard and smooth. In principle, this does not contradict the truth, but you still need to check the base, otherwise it will be very disappointing when in a few years the wooden floor rots, the linoleum cracks, the tiles begin to peel off, and the old screed cracks.

What threatens uneven surface and the lack of verification of the basis is understandable. Now the most important thing is how to evaluate the quality of the surface and how to correct the critical situation. Floors in houses can be concrete or wood, and each of these coverings requires special measures.

First you need to remove existing coverage: remove linoleum, disassemble parquet. If the old concrete screed is not falling apart, then it can be left, repaired if necessary, but if it has cracked, then it will have to be removed.

Roughness measurement

Deviations from the horizontal can be measured with a long rule or ruler. The tool must be placed on the floor. If it does not touch the surface tightly, it is worth measuring the existing gap.

The slope is calculated with a laser level and ruler.

If bumps and holes create differences of more than 2 mm per 2 meters, and the slope is more than 4 mm, then the floor needs.

Video - Laser level

There are several ways to level a concrete floor, and each of them will depend on the initial condition of the coating, as well as the wishes of the person who started the repair. Leveling begins with preparing the concrete base.

It involves removing significant protrusions and cracks. Large bumps must be knocked down, and the cracks must be primed and sealed with mortar. Then remove all debris from the floor, preferably with a vacuum cleaner, or even better - wet cleaning. This will help get rid of any sand and dust particles that will prevent the leveling coating from adhering to the base. Be sure to waterproof the joints of the slabs and the gaps between the wall and the floor.

It doesn't hurt to level the walls along the baseboard, as they are usually just as far from being perfectly smooth as the floors. It will be very unsightly when a gap forms between the wall and the baseboard.

After preparatory work finished, you can proceed directly to leveling. If the slope and height difference are no more than 3 cm, then the floor can be leveled using a leveling solution.

This is a fairly convenient way to bring relatively flat floors to perfect condition. The method is fast and does not require special construction skills.

What will you need?

1. Buy a mixture, and at the same time a primer for the floor.
2. Apply primer to the repaired and clean floor. It is designed to improve adhesion and reduce the ability of concrete to absorb moisture.
3. Apply damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
4. Prepare the solution according to the instructions. It is better not to stir the mixture by hand: firstly, the result will be worse than when stirring with a drill, and secondly, it will take longer. One bucket is not enough for the whole room, so before the first portion has set, you need to have time to dilute and pour the next one onto the floor.
5. Pour the finished solution into the far corner of the room and, so that it spreads quickly, spread it with a spatula in the direction of the exit, and then roll it with a needle roller. This will get rid of air bubbles. Then quickly, without allowing the mixture to set, pour in the second portion and especially carefully use a roller to work the junction of two different batches. There is no need to level anything - the liquid will spill out on its own.
6. The solution will dry quickly enough, but the exact time when it can be exposed maximum loads, it is better to check on the packaging.

Video - Leveling the floor

In the case where the height difference turns out to be more than 3 cm, you will have to abandon the use of the leveling solution. The developer has three options to choose from: laying classic cement-sand screed, dry screed or floor extension on joists.

This method allows you to get a durable monolithic floor, but is only suitable for medium height differences. If the maximum thickness of the future screed is more than 10 cm, its weight will create a significant load on the floors, so you will have to resort to other leveling methods.

You can make a cement-sand screed with your own hands, but it will require, if not construction experience, then at least effort. By the way, it takes quite a long time to dry - this is its main drawback. In order to level the floor with your own hands, you will need to carry out a number of activities.

Video - Cement-sand screed

1. Prepare the floor: clean, lay waterproofing and stick damper tape.
2. Find the zero level - the place of intersection with the walls horizontal plane future coverage. To do this, you need to add to the highest point of the floor minimum thickness screeds. For cement-sand it is 3 cm, although it is also possible to use ready-made mixtures with other parameters. The resulting value will be the height of the screed.
3. In accordance with the zero level found and marked on the walls install beacons. Usually this is a metal profile laid on piles of mortar so that its tops coincide with the zero plane. The distance between such guides should be slightly less than the width of the rule so that it rests on the beacons when leveling the solution.
4. Prepare the solution.
5. Place the solution on the floor and level it with a long rule.
6. Dry the finished screed. It is covered with film or moistened with water for two weeks to prevent uneven drying, and then left for another two weeks for final drying. After three days, when you can already walk on the screed, you need to remove the beacons and level the grooves from them.

Suitable when the height difference is more than 10 cm. This is usually due to a large slope, and cement strainer in this case, it will create not only a heavy load, but also an uneven one. In addition, dry screed is good when there is no time to wait for drying.

1. Preparing the floor as in the previous case.
2. Search zero level and display of beacons. Any material can be used as a substrate.
3. Filling with filler. Most often this is expanded clay, but it can also be perlite, polystyrene foam or quartz sand.
4. The filler must be compacted, leveled along the beacons and sheets placed on top rough coating, for example, GVL. This material is usually laid in two layers, with overlapping seams. As the covering is laid, the beacons are removed. The covering sheets are attached to each other, and a flat floor is obtained, ready for further work.

Another “dry” method. It is also capable of leveling the most hopeless floors without weighing down the ceiling, but significantly raises the floor. This needs to be taken into account in case such alignment prevents the doors from opening or the heating radiator will have to be lifted.

Video - Leveling the floor with extensions

The characteristics of a wooden floor determine how it can be leveled. There are also several of them, which gives you the opportunity to choose, but each is preceded by preparation.

First you need to inspect the floor, evaluate its quality and repair it if necessary. Creaking and sagging boards should be replaced, and protruding nail heads and screws should be recessed into the surface. Then check for slopes and holes.

The most common methods of leveling a wooden floor are scraping, pouring a self-leveling mixture for a wooden floor, filling with a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue, and leveling with plywood.

Most often, this method is used to level the coating before varnishing, but the result obtained allows you to obtain a surface suitable for laminate. Before scraping, you need to recess the heads of the screws by at least 5 mm so as not to damage the machine knives.

Such products allow you to level out even significant unevenness. The filling layer reaches 2 cm, and if necessary, several layers can be poured.

1. Removing paint or varnish remaining on the floorboards, sealing cracks and holes. For this purpose, you can use a thickly diluted filling compound.
2. Primer with a moisture-proof mixture.
3. Zero level mark.
4. Seal the gaps between the floor and the wall with polystyrene foam.
5. Waterproofing flooring with overlap on the walls.
6. Preparing the mixture.
7. Distributing the mixture over the floor, rolling with a needle roller.
8. Dry the layer, apply a second one if necessary.

This method is cheap and allows you to level the floors even in large rooms. You can buy this composition ready-made, or you can make it yourself from moistened sawdust and glue. The downside is the need to wait a long time for drying, especially when several layers are needed.

Now big choice such substrates, and can be chosen to suit any whim: thicker, with a foil layer, made from natural materials. Everyone has their pros and cons.

For example, polyethylene foam is affordable, protects the laminate well from moisture, is not susceptible to mold, but sag over time.

Bitumen-cork ones are made of reinforced paper impregnated with bitumen and cork chips. They protect well from moisture, are durable, retain heat, but are quite expensive.

Cork substrates They are environmentally friendly, durable, do not deteriorate, but are afraid of moisture, so you need to additionally lay film under them.

So, preparing the floor surface for laying laminate first of all comes down to leveling. There are quite a few ways to do this. Each of them has its pros and cons, but all can be done with your own hands. Therefore, a beautiful laminate floor is a dream that you can fulfill yourself.

Anton Nosikov asks:

I decided to renovate the living room. I will be laying laminate flooring. I am familiar with the installation technology, but do not know whether it is necessary to prime the base before installing the laminate flooring?

Our expert gives the answer:

Laminated board is popular decorative coating, used in rooms of different functional purpose. This is due to its low cost, strength, durability, and aesthetics. To obtain all the specified properties during installation work it is necessary to strictly adhere to technology.

Do I need to prime the floor before laying laminate flooring, or is this an optional operation? To understand everything, you need to understand the purpose of this stage of foundation preparation:

• increased adhesion of the surface to the decorative coating, which increases its service life;
• the voids of the base material are filled, which makes it more durable;
• the moisture resistance of the treated surface increases;
• the floor is protected from the formation of mold and mildew, which negatively affect human health.

The use of primers for laying laminate flooring is optional, but recommended. Carrying out such surface treatment on preparatory stage, you can get rid of many problems that appear in the process long-term operation. For example, due to high humidity Screeds often cause deformation of the laminated board or it collapses. The use of a primer before installing the laminate is mandatory if the base is concrete.

Before priming, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. It must be perfectly smooth and free of dust and other contaminants. For this construction garbage collected using a broom with additional cleaning with a brush. A vacuum cleaner is used to remove small dust particles. You can remove greasy stains using a solvent.

The primer is applied only to a perfectly dry surface. Processing occurs in several stages, depending on the absorbency of the base. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried. Exact dates indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Overexposing them will prevent poor quality of preparation.

Typically, two coats of primer are sufficient to achieve optimal adhesion. If the base is characterized by significant porosity, additional application will be required.

Video: Methods for preparing a concrete floor for laying laminate flooring

The most important role when laying laminate flooring is not played by itself. flooring material and its parameters, and what surface the coating is laid on. We will try to analyze in detail the issues related to this, starting with preparing the floor for laminate and ending with the choice of substrate.

This question is asked by many people during the renovation process, since everyone wants to speed up the construction process as much as possible, and to do everything as efficiently as possible.

Preparing the floor for laminate installation is considered very important stage in the arrangement of flooring. If you take floor preparation lightly, you will soon regret it, as you will get:

• unevenness;
• creaks;
• lack of sound insulation, etc.

Where to start work?

Before the beginning repair work need to get them all necessary tools and materials so that you don’t have to get distracted by little things.

Tool preparation

Installing a laminate floor is not building walls or finishing surfaces with a ventilated façade, so there is almost no need for power tools. You probably already have everything you need.

1. Building level. With its help you can level the surface. Better to use laser level with a minimum error, which significantly exceeds the accuracy of water construction levels.
2. Drill with mixer attachment. You will need it to mix the solution. You can do everything manually, but it will take more time.
3. Rule. The longer it is, the better, as you can cover a larger surface.
4. Putty knife. A small rule change.
5. Needle roller. Required in the case of self-leveling floors.

You may also need a hammer and a screwdriver during the installation of the laminate flooring.

Materials

1. Dry mixes. Needed to create a high-quality screed.
2. Wooden flooring. Plywood or OSB is suitable here.

You can lay the laminate on different coatings except for the carpet.

Selecting a substrate

In addition to selecting dry mixtures, you need to select a high-quality substrate for the laminated coating, on which a lot will depend. To do right choice, you need to consider some rules.

They provide reliable protection laminate from moisture. The backing has an additional foil layer, which eliminates the need to purchase additional polyethylene rolls for laying on the floor. The substrate does not rot and is not susceptible to mold and fungi. The substrate is easy to install and has an affordable price.

As is known, natural materials are environmentally friendly, but they also prevent heat loss. Cork underlays are very durable, so you won't have to replace your laminate anytime soon.

Cork materials do not like moisture, so it is necessary to place plastic film under the substrate.

The substrate is made from kraft paper coated with bitumen. This optimal material to protect against moisture, but they are more expensive than similar products. In addition, they are not in high demand in our country.

Product made from pine needles

This substrate is the most popular, as it not only reduces heat loss, but also has a beneficial effect on humans: the pine aroma cleanses the respiratory tract.

The main disadvantage of this material is its relatively high price and the production time of the substrate, which is made to order.

Having chosen the optimal underlay for your home or apartment, you can begin renovating the floor.

Before laying laminate flooring, the floor must be prepared. First, the room should be thoroughly cleaned, removing everything extra items and sweeping away the trash. After this, mix the dry mixture in a separate container. Along the perimeter of the room on the walls you should mark the floor level that you need to get in the end.

The marks are transferred to the beacons using a level, which are installed over the entire floor area on the solution. This gives you a surface on which the top edge of the beacon acts as the boundary of the screed to which the underlay and laminate are nailed.

Mixing instructions are usually indicated on the packaging, but if it is missing, you should do everything as follows: add 3 kg of sand per 1 kg of cement and no more than half a liter of water per 1 kg of solution. After adding too much water, add cement. Don't make the solution too thin.

It is necessary to maintain a distance of about a meter between the beacons. The screed is poured in several stages, dividing the room into sections using timber.

Do not create drafts when the solution dries so that the hardening time does not increase.

As a result of the work done, you should get a smooth surface with an error of no more than 2 mm per meter.

Please remember that the described method is only suitable for concrete surfaces. Preparing wooden floors for laying laminate needs to be completely different.

The first step is to carefully stretch all the floorboards to get rid of squeaks. Rotten boards should be replaced or covered with film and sheets of plywood placed on top.

Plywood is sawn into slabs and laid on the floor with a distance of about 5-10 mm from each other. This is required so that when the floor is deformed, the plywood does not rub against the ends of adjacent slabs.

If you need a deeper screed, chipboard sheets or plywood can be laid in two rows. Attach them in such a way that the joint of the top layer does not overlap with the joint of the lower one.

This flooring option is suitable for laying parquet boards, wooden floors, linoleum and laminate.

This modern technology needed to prepare floors for laying laminate. First, mix a special bulk mixture- solution rolled out on the floor. It takes no more than 10-15 minutes to prepare. Pouring the liquid mixture onto the floor near the wall that is opposite front door, take a spatula and spread the solution over the area.

If you have boots with special spikes, you can level the entire room in one go.

Using a needle roller, you need to roll the solution to turn it into a smooth mirror surface. This completes the preparation of the base for laying the laminate, but certain subtleties must be taken into account.

1. Do not disturb for 3-4 days temperature regime, to cement mortar not spoiled.
2. The laminate is laid on the poured floor 2-3 days after the screed has dried.
3. While the solution dries, it must be protected from sunlight and contact with any objects.

The final stage

So, you now know how you can prepare the base for laying laminate flooring and how to save money on construction services. You may spend more time, but that's not a big deal. Firstly, you will do everything yourself and can be proud of the result, and secondly, the money saved can be spent on a more expensive substrate.

If you have any other questions, watch the video below: