Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling is made of plastic panels They are usually made monochromatic. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight tint, such as “baked milk”, ecru, Ivory and so on.

Depending on the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny inserts. But since ceilings made of plastic panels are almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, balcony - small sizes, as a rule, force you to choose glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when matte ceiling it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even package goods in it; many of our products in the kitchen and bathroom are also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What’s nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and the conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are truly hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitation station allows them to be used in medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really are burning. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of +360°C. For comparison: fiberboard also begins to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke they emit, plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to install a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with toilet. To prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still not airtight and with sufficient air exchange no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They are distinguished by their rigidity and weight: on the ceiling it is not important mechanical strength, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can crush them even with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame (if there is one) will be slightly increased and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles clapboard: the same stripes, only made of plastic. A ceiling made from such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface with hardly visible joints is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a tongue and groove, like on a regular lining, with the help of which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with and is rarely used: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are finished, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of care: almost any dirt is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - depending on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When purchasing PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which you decorate the ends and joints. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a suspended ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without having to drill walls. On the other hand, it “eats” some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is the case if the lamps are installed with ordinary ones, and not built-in ones. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main ceiling by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantity and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be sufficient.

Assembling the frame

When installing suspended ceiling assemble the frame from guides. Most often, profiles are used for working with drywall. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom or kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden blocks of 30*30 mm or larger cross-section.

First nail the planks or profiles around the perimeter, placing them all level. Then on standard hangers (there are two types) or wooden blocks intermediate guides are attached in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as the previously installed ones (it’s easier to do if you stretch the threads between the already installed ones and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mm, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using pads - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the frame looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin installing the plastic panels. It starts with setting up a starting profile. In the case of a ceiling, ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to a profile or strip fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are filed at an angle of exactly 45°. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. On the background white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn’t matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a slight spacer of 1 mm.

The cut strip can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue ceiling molding (with liquid nails). This way the joint turns out perfect: when gluing you press the bar tightly, when screwing it onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it is twisted forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, apply a thin strip of glue in a zigzag. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can use 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and torn off. There should be some glue left on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the plank is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even block and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has completely set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved from place. After 8-12 hours the glue will harden and installation can continue.

If during gluing “liquid nails” are squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it out. Wait until it is completely dry, then pry it off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already installed skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. There is no need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not appear in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces at a time, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding on three sides. It is placed with the spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the finishing profile is made of soft plastic, top part(mounting shelf) bends, which creates difficulties during installation. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be secured with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the plank, otherwise you will have to correct it with a spatula, putting the panel in place. It should fit into the plinth or starting profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is secured to each guide with a self-tapping screw. To attach to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The installation of subsequent stripes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the baseboard by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled by lifting the middle with your hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping the edge with your palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make sure it fits tightly. From below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip is normal.

If you have an assistant, he will support the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you are attaching it to the screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by gluing small pieces of double-sided tape to the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. This is how you assemble all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for installing lamps. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring attachment, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you know the tool well and can do it round hole. As it turns out, you can make a hole a regular drill with a thin drill...how? Watch the video. There are a couple more good tips there.

Having installed the strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, problems may arise later: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. What if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. That’s why we install and check its functionality right away.

Installing the last panel

The most difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated about this. But then there are two options:

• Simply insert the trimmed strip into a pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. If the panel width is sufficient, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip. Otherwise you won't insert it. And so you have to carefully adjust it with something thin (a steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After several attempts, it still works out... But besides the installation difficulties, there is one more drawback: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the previously measured distance on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then she's in pure form glued to “liquid nails”. Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. Both the one along the wall and the one perpendicular to the installation (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in reserve - just in case.

The installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic skirting board. First, the mounting strip on it is cut off: you leave only the baseboard. Afterwards, you also cut it at the corners at 45°, try it on, and cut it exactly. After trying it on again “dry” and making sure that the size is correct, apply glue to the plinth, only on both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will stick to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is finished. But sometimes another operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not necessary if you bought high-quality panels that have ideal geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly there is no need for correction: there are no saggings that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction plastic skirting board with a ceiling. Often there are so many cracks that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Filling in the cracks in small areas 30-40 cm each, removing all excess and leveling the seam. Acrylic is well leveled until it sets, and this is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared the piece and corrected it. If everything is fine, continue to apply. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having covered the piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty is cut off evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rubbed with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you won’t be able to wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the cracks that appear, rub it in, remove the excess and wash off the smudges. This second time is usually the finishing time. After this layer dries, streaks remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth until shiny. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the lamps, the repair can be considered complete.

How to attach to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already level and does not need level correction, plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The procedure is the same: first the starting profile, then strips cut to size are inserted into it, securing at least every 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. You can hit wood with nails or staples from a stapler. It’s more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws won’t work, and you’ll have a hard time drilling a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum distance from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue it on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-removable and will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Ceiling lamps made of plastic panels

We are not talking about design or quantity - here everyone decides for themselves, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate circuit breaker with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of 220 V lamps

If you install 220 V lamps, and install even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the housing. As the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. The heated body causes the plastic to darken and warp over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. In the bathroom, it is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp body is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. Second point: most of them are quite bulky, since the body is usually ceramic. Simply hanging it on plastic will not work: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in the places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: maximum length The wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. The lamps also work normally at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to place the transformer outside the bathroom to improve safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is quite large. Then it will have to be moved to the bathroom and hidden behind a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes each lamp has its own transformer. This is normal, it just costs more, but long distance between the lamps is justified.

The construction market is now replete with a wide variety of finishing materials. The main advantages of modern innovations are ease of use and reliability. However, this is not always about practicality in terms of price. In this matter, finishing materials made from PVC undoubtedly lead in terms of profitability. PVC panels make it easy and simple to cover walls and ceilings in any room. At the same time, you do not need to worry about the costly leveling of the base of the wall or worry about the exorbitant cost of installation work. Making the same suspended ceiling with your own hands using PVC panels will not be difficult, even without having many years of experience repair work.

What will you need?

So, now we will consider the option of installing a suspended ceiling using PVC panels as a finishing material. For this you will need minimum required tools, PVC panels and required mounting elements. More precisely, you will need the following tools:

1. screwdriver or low-speed drill;
2. roulette, bubble level, water level;
3. hammer;
4. miter box, hacksaw, construction knife.

The material used is PVC panels. According to generally accepted standards, panels can be 25 and 50 cm wide. The main parameter when purchasing is the area of ​​all elements in the package. When calculating the required quantity, you should calculate the area of ​​the room in which the suspended ceiling will be installed, and increase the resulting quantity by 10-15%, taking into account the trimming of the material.

To secure the panels to the ceiling, use special fasteners and form a frame. The PVC panels themselves are quite fragile and soft, so for reliable fastening you will need a strong frame with frequent lathing.

Along the perimeter of the room, a U-shaped plastic profile is used, into which the edges of the panels will be inserted. Alternatively, you can choose a color that matches ceiling plinth for PVC panels, which is already equipped with a U-shaped groove. In high-quality design, such a plinth is a prefabricated structure in which the U-shaped groove is assembled in two parts to facilitate installation.

For the sheathing, you can use a wooden beam measuring 20x40 mm or a metal profile like for plasterboard. In the bathroom or kitchen, wooden beams are not suitable due to high humidity. However, thanks to simpler installation wooden beam and attaching the panels themselves to it, it can be used in the bedroom or living room. The second parameter for selection is the price of the material; in this matter, you only need to check the availability and price in your region. When using wood in any form in construction, it must be treated before installation. antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants. The latter is necessary to increase the fire-resistant properties of wood.

PVC panels of various standards

In addition, there are plastic or aluminum profiles especially for PVC panels. If the cladding is carried out along the ceiling with small differences of up to 4-5 mm and with minimal lowering of the suspended ceiling, installation of PVC panels on the ceiling may be completely simple. The profiles are made with a special groove in the center for fastening to the base and for fastening the clips that will hold the sheathing panels.

For hardware, you will definitely need plastic dowels and nails-screws for them (another alternative would be anchors with a wedge for driving). They will attach frame elements and profiles along the perimeter to the walls and ceiling. The frame itself is assembled using screws with a drill tip for metal profile and wood screws for timber. PVC panels can be fastened either with screws with a press washer or with special metal clips. The approximate quantity of all hardware can be calculated after choosing the method of fixing the ceiling and after reading the installation instructions.

Preparation stage

Even taking into account that the ceiling will be hidden from view, it should be cleared of all elements that may subsequently fall off or spill onto the mounted suspended ceiling: damaged plaster or putty between the slabs, whitewash, old finishing material, etc. The entire surface of the ceiling is primed.

Only after this can you begin marking for the installation of the perimeter and frame. To do this, you should draw a line on the walls throughout the room, which will indicate a single level of the future ceiling. The ceiling should be lowered taking into account what lighting fixtures will be used, the availability hidden wiring or other communications, as well as unevenness of the ceiling itself. For wiring, you should take into account the mandatory presence of a gap between the upper edge of the frame and the ceiling of at least 1.5-2 cm. The lowest place on the ceiling should be selected as a reference point from which to measure the descent.

Once the first mark is placed, you can transfer it to all four walls along the edges using water or laser level. To mark a line around the entire perimeter, you can use twine, generously colored with bright chalk. By pressing the edges of the string against the wall along the marks, you can pull it back slightly and release it. As a result, the chalk will remain on the wall.

Once the perimeter is outlined, you can begin marking the location supporting elements frame. Profiles or beams should be placed perpendicular to the future direction of the PVC panels and at a distance of 40 to 60 cm. At a greater distance, suspended ceilings made from panels may sag slightly during operation.

Advice: No matter how much you would like this, there are still cases when both the floor and the ceiling of a room in multi-storey buildings of mass construction are not level, and it is extremely expensive to correct this. In this case, it is better to deviate somewhat from reference to a strict level and draw a perimeter line with some slope so that the difference in the planes of the ceiling and floor is not visually striking.

Frame installation

Option 1: plastic sheathing

A plastic U-shaped profile or a plinth with it is attached around the perimeter of the entire room so that its lower border runs along the previously drawn line. To join profiles in corners, use a miter box and a hacksaw. This is the only way to get a beautiful cut and minimum clearance. The profile should be fastened every 25-30 cm. Next, to facilitate the process of installing the frame, you can stretch a thread or fishing line across the ceiling so that it forms a plane along with the upper edge of the profile.

Option 2: wooden frame

The wooden beams are attached to the ceiling using dowels and impact screws, every 60 cm. In order to bring them to the same level along the bottom edge, you can use wooden pads between them and the ceiling.

Option 3: metal profile

The metal profile, as in the case of plasterboard, is attached using U-shaped elements located every 60-80 cm. It is most convenient to attach the so-called “pawns” to the ceiling with anchors with a driven wedge, and to the profiles using screws with a drill tip.

Install jumpers between frame load-bearing not necessary, but they will be needed in places where something heavy is supposed to be fixed, for example, a chandelier.

At the end of the installation of the frame, power cables for lighting are laid. At using PVC panels, wires must be laid in corrugation to ensure fire safety. In places where spotlights will be installed, it is enough to leave loops 10-15 cm long.

Installation of PVC panels

Now that the frame is ready and brought to a single level, you can begin installing suspended ceilings. This is the least troublesome and at the same time responsible process. The first strip of material is inserted into the U-shaped profile. Some craftsmen cut off the latch along the edge of the first strip. Once the strip is in place, it is secured with screws or clips to the frame support profiles, without missing a single one. Cut strip required size You can use a hacksaw or a simple knife. The material is quite easy to cut.

Important: PVC panels should be cut to a length slightly shorter than the distance between the walls. There must be a gap between the strip and the walls, approximately 4-5 mm at each end.

The next strip is applied to the lock at a slight angle and inserted into it along its entire length. After this, press the second side to the frame and also secure it with screws. In order to bring the strips together tightly, you can use a block or a piece of the same PVC panel, which is inserted into the groove and carefully driven in with a hammer until it stops.

The main thing is not to bend the strips of material under any circumstances and not to apply too much force during installation. PVC panels are quite fragile and even careless hand pressure can leave a dent that cannot be removed. Installation is best done with a partner or using simple supports with crossbars.

The main difficulty may arise when installing the last strip. In one embodiment, you can turn the strip over with a lock in the other direction and cut it to length from the side of the groove on the required width. Next, placing it tightly against the previous panel, the last element of the ceiling is fastened with screws. When using dismountable skirting boards, it is easier and more reliable to simply cut the strip to width and click the lock with the previous strip, as in all other cases.

If you plan to install spotlights in the ceiling, it is naturally more advisable to think about it in advance and embed spots “on the ground”. More information about installing lighting in a plastic or any other ceiling -.

Completion

Once all the strips are installed, you can begin finishing. When using a U-shaped profile, a separate plinth is installed around the perimeter. It is best to attach it using liquid nails. In this case, it is better to apply them only to one side of the baseboard. That is, the plinth is attached either only to the wall or only to the ceiling.

In the case of a collapsible plinth, the mating part is simply snapped into place. In the corners, you can use special adapter couplings or cover the cracks with sealant of a suitable color.

In pre-marked places, holes should be made for the output of lighting wires or for the installation of spotlights. The same work can be done during the installation of the ceiling. At the very end of the work, the lamps and all the equipment necessary for them are installed. It is advisable to adhere to generally accepted standards and, in the case where a suspended ceiling is installed in a bathroom, then install low-voltage lighting fixtures with a converter instead of the usual circuit using 220 V. However, the fact that a ceiling made of PVC panels is to a certain extent not afraid of moisture, it can be guaranteed to protect yourself from the consequences of moderate flooding by neighbors above.

Plastic finishing panels- this is a material that differs from analogues in its combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, checkered, with various patterns and images.

However, when it comes to ceiling panels, the most popular are the details light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, then the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it actually is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on power lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material poses a risk to human health and violates the right conditions living in a house. Others consider plastic to be completely harmless and quite suitable for use in residential areas. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth studying all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, all the opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and the food industry. Various plastic items are found in large quantities in bathrooms, kitchens and living spaces, where plastic is represented in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a suspended ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps or pores. This quality means that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them using an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is their high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, after a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a disadvantage of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, emitting 50% less smoke during combustion.

The last imaginary disadvantage of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling structure is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grille is built into opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the opportunity to “breathe”. In addition, when installing a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material the ceiling is made of and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

• Ceilings, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, more durable and rigid products, which are more expensive and are not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply impractical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Slatted products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other through a lateral tongue-and-groove connection);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material, which is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before assembling a ceiling from plastic panels, you need to select best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet cleaning and differ good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are talking only about visual characteristics, but the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two basic schemes:

• Suspended ceiling, which is arranged as separate design;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main one ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures are a fairly popular method of finishing the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is that there is no need to prepare grooves for laying communications - and this is significant, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes up part of the free volume of the room. In the best scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only if conventional lighting fixtures are installed. To install built-in lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before making a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main element of the design will be guides, which are most often used standard profiles for installation plasterboard sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular ceiling profile made of plastic panels, but for rooms with high humidity it is best to use galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 30x30 mm.
• Profile elements are attached around the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Next, using hangers or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All ceiling guides made of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth stretching the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focusing on them.
• If suspended structure will be located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the planks can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made from pieces of wood or plywood. The structure must be designed so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can begin installing the starting profiles:

1. To work you need to take the ceiling molding. It is attached to frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even minimum deviation will cause noticeable cracks to appear. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the strip you can use adhesive composition or self-tapping screws. It is recommended to glue moldings using liquid nails- in this case, an ideal joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward slightly.
3. The edge facing the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along its entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the surface of the wall. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - before the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue completely hardens, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue installation. During the installation process, liquid nails may be squeezed out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling parts. You need to wait until the glue has completely dried and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fastening plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When installing a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. There is no need to cut the parts according to the length or width of the room - in this case they will not fit into the profile. With ideal room geometry, many parts can be cut, but this rarely happens, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel fits into the molding with three edges. The panel must be installed with the tenon facing forward so that it connects to the plank. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf may sag and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can lightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, tucking it into the edge of the panel. Important point– the panel should immediately fit into the profile along its entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the guides using self-tapping screws or construction stapler, if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of the plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted strip is aligned and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Installing plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the plank, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile.
5. When installing suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that you need to cut holes for the lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance where exactly they will be installed. For slicing, you can use any suitable tool- for example, a drill with a ring attachment. You need to insert the lamps, connect them and check them immediately - after the ceiling is completely assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before making a suspended ceiling from plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage the installation of the structure does not end.

Installation of the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and mounting features of this element. However, with dimensions everything is simple - the strip is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starting profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it will not be possible to install it. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you need to observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology for gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel is not removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the inside of the ceiling.

When all the panels are installed, all that remains is to install the last plinth. The mounting strip is cut off from it and the corners are trimmed (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, you can coat it with glue on both sides and install it in its place.

Sealing seams with acrylic

Everything is clear about how to make a plastic ceiling - but there remains one more step that in the vast majority of cases needs to be completed. It's about about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, there is no need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill the mounting gun with it. Using a gun, you need to carefully seal all the gaps, joints between panels, baseboards and ceilings, as well as corner areas. As a rule, there are many noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good look around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. The gaps need to be filled in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high hardening rate, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardened excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. When acrylic hardens, it may decrease in volume and be drawn into the seam cavity. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to completely seal the entire ceiling. Any stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped off first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Attaching plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to size are mounted into it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fastening elements in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples from a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not fit into such a ceiling, and drilling separate holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the structure will ultimately turn out to be non-removable.

Before making a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in a plastic ceiling

Selecting the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual issue, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the characteristics of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products - are suitable.

Lamps operating from a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of over 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulating housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, which is why the plastic can darken and deform over time. To prevent temperature increases from affecting the plastic, thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary that it be protected from direct contact with water. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. To install moisture-resistant lamps, you will need to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps the situation is somewhat simpler, since they operate on 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such lamps, power is supplied through a machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of the lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the lamps.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - increasing the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in lighting intensity. When installed in a bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is quite comfortable, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and are suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

Plastic panels today are increasingly used as a finishing material for walls and ceilings. Their popularity is constantly trending upward, due to good performance characteristics, aesthetic appearance and simple installation work. Another significant advantage of panels of this type is the affordable price level.

How to choose plastic panels

Plastic panels can be used in rooms with high humidity without any particular concerns.

This material is resistant to impacts aggressive environment and fluctuations temperature indicators- suitable for . Moreover, their use prevents the formation of mold and mildew, which is important for. When choosing PVC panels, you should take into account the length and width. The surface of the material can be varnished, glossy or matte.

Another significant advantage of PVC panels is the absence of the need for careful leveling of the surface, as well as the ability to hide individual communication elements under the frame.

Photo: finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

When choosing this variation of finishing material, you should focus on the fact that plastic panels for walls and ceilings have certain differences. The former have higher weight indicators. In addition, they have a more rigid structure.

Option for finishing a bathroom with plastic panels

Plastic panels intended for finishing the ceiling have less weight. This is due to the need to carry out installation work at height. Minimum weight indicators greatly facilitate this procedure.

Finishing the walls and ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels

Along with this, plastic ceiling panels are more fragile. When performing installation work, you should be very careful, as you can easily damage the surface of the finishing material.

Wall decoration with decorative plastic panels

With a standard thickness of 5-10 mm, the width of the panels can vary from 25 to 50 cm. The length ranges from 2.7 to 3 m. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to the quality of the color of the panel, the uniformity of the pattern and the correctness of the shape. You should also take into account the quality of the stiffeners. They should not stick out from the outside. The surface of the material should not contain characteristic chips and cracks.

The level of resistance of the material to deformation will depend on the quality of the density and flexibility of the PVC panel. If such a panel is tightly compressed, there should be no traces of mechanical damage on it.

Required tools and materials

When performing work on installing plastic panels on the wall and ceiling, at the initial stage you should select necessary tools and materials. To resolve an installation issue, you may need:

• PVC panels;
• drill;
• dowels;
• cord and pencil;
• perforator;
• ladder.

Moldings and corners should also be added here. By using the latter, you can achieve the most even markings. Otherwise, when installing plastic panels on walls or ceilings, certain difficulties may arise.

Photo: plastic panels for bathroom tiles

Plastic panels are selected depending on the specific layout of the room. IN small room It is advisable to use narrow panels. Subject to finishing more spacious room It is most advisable to resort to the use of wider products.

Photo: ceiling decoration with built-in lamps with PVC panels

Self-tapping screws can be used instead of dowels. They are necessary if the frame will have a metal design. Dowels are only relevant if a wooden frame is used. It should be noted here that a wooden base cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity. This is due to the fact that such material is susceptible to rotting, as well as negative influence fungi and mold. For this reason, using a wooden frame in the kitchen and bathroom is not a practical solution.

Construction of lathing for walls and ceilings

The structure of the frame is the primary issue that should be resolved when installing plastic panels on a wall or ceiling. It was noted above that a wooden or metal variation of the frame can be used as a base. The optimal distance between the individual elements of such a base is equivalent to 50 cm. In this way, it is possible to compensate for the uneven surface of the ceiling or walls. The recommended sequence of actions will look like this:

1. Carrying out markings.
2. Installation of profiles along the entire perimeter of the surface.
3. Installation of transverse profiles.
4. Installation of the base for fastening PVC panels.
5. Installation of panels.

When marking, you should first determine the minimum ceiling height. From this point on the walls you need to draw two lines. To do this, you can resort to using a cord painted with chalk. The correctness of the marking is checked using a building level.

After marking, profiles should be installed along the entire perimeter of the surface. These elements must be fixed without creating voids or gaps. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to achieve maximum reliability of the entire structure.

Profile frame for walls

After installing the transverse profiles, the task that needs to be resolved is to install the base for the panel fastenings. For fastening plastic profiles You can use self-tapping screws.

Profile frame on the ceiling

When installing a metal frame variation, you should be as careful as possible. Total weight The structure will be quite large, so it is necessary to ensure high reliability of its fastening. Attaching hangers to concrete floor can be done through the use of special dowels with a cap on the sleeve. Conventional dowels will fail, since concrete is characterized by the presence of internal voids.

Attaching the first panel to the frame

Holes in the metal profile can be drilled simultaneously with the preparation of holes in the wall. If the frame is mounted on ceramic tiles, it is advisable to use a hammer drill only if glue mixture completely dry. Otherwise, cracks may appear on the surface of the tile.

Features of panel installation

Or is it best to start a wall with the definition optimal length material. It is recommended that this issue be resolved in advance. To cut plastic panels, you can use a regular hacksaw.

There is nothing complicated in the installation procedure for such panels. They are first placed in the profile and then secured using self-tapping screws. It is recommended to start installing plastic panels from the corner of the room. This applies to both the ceiling and the wall. It is also very important to monitor the quality and evenness of the installation of the first element. It should be located strictly perpendicular to the wall or ceiling. Otherwise, the panel will not be able to snap into the groove and there will be a need for dismantling and new installation.

Special lathing for plastic panels with fasteners

The edges of the plastic panels must fit into the planks. The last part is adjusted to the optimal distance to the wall. If necessary, you can cut the panel with a regular hacksaw.

Advice! Before carrying out work related to the installation of plastic panels on a ceiling or wall, it is recommended to take care of the installation first various elements communication systems. They are able to camouflage well water pipes, electrical wiring or heating pipes.

With the advent of inexpensive building plastic, it has become much easier to repair the ceiling, and to reduce costs and easy installation the presentable appearance of the structure has been increased. Indeed, practical glossy panels in the bathroom or kitchen look elegant and quite appropriate, and their design is not inferior to the design of plasterboard and tension systems. Thanks to a wide range of ready-made building materials you can make a suspended ceiling from plastic with your own hands, and the result will be practically no different from the work professional craftsmen.

Why is plastic better than other materials?

The first question that arises when mentioning plastic suspended ceilings concerns their safety for people or animals. Modern artificial panels made of polyvinyl chloride are absolutely harmless. Modifications of PVC are used not only for the production of building materials, but also for the production of tableware, food packaging, and souvenirs.

At the same time, plastic, unlike wood, is lightweight, and for the installation of a ceiling this is an important factor. In addition, PVC parts have a smooth, non-porous texture, while natural material - wood - changes shape and weight with changes in temperature or air humidity. limited space.

Plastic is perfect for finishing ceilings in modern kitchens

One of the important advantages for utility rooms and bathrooms - practicality. The slats and panels do not need to be renewed with paint; it is enough to wipe them with a slightly dampened cloth several times a year. Heavier stains can be removed using traditional detergents – laundry soap or cleaning gel. It is not recommended to use abrasive powders, as they can scratch a smooth surface, and it is especially easy to ruin the appearance of mirror and glossy elements.

The ease of installation of a structure made of PVC panels is also one of the advantages of this material. Even without special training, you can design and create a frame from a metal profile or wooden slats, and then attach the plastic parts to it. Anyone who knows how to use a screwdriver or drill will be able to do this.

Let’s not forget that a plastic suspended ceiling perfectly masks communications: ventilation pipes and electrical wiring. PVC panels also hide perfectly thermal insulation mats. In the event of flooding from above, even repairs will not be required, although, suppose, the drywall becomes unusable, and the tensile structure has to be restored. As you can see, plastic ceilings have enough advantages.

A sample of a ceiling made from fragments of textured plastic panels: thanks to pieces of different lengths, it folds interesting drawing

Selection of plastic panels

Consumable plastic can be divided into two categories - wide panels, most often glossy or matte, and narrow slats, reminiscent of wooden “lining” in size. The assembly principle for both types is the same: the parts are folded parallel end-to-end, one after another, over the entire ceiling area. It is not necessary to place elements along or across the walls; some fans lay them diagonally, although this method is a little more difficult to implement.

Considering the interior of the room, you can choose colored panels - most often they are painted in pastel, pale colors. There are options with a pattern, but they should be used extremely carefully, and the ornament on the plastic should be compatible in style with the wallpaper, tiles and furnishings.

Having chosen the color and size of the parts, you need to calculate their quantity. The dimensions of the panels are indicated on the labels, therefore, knowing the total area of ​​the room, it is easy to calculate the number of pieces: divide the area of ​​the room by the area of ​​one part. 1-2 additional element will not interfere, since some of the panels have to be trimmed.

Samples of panels with natural-themed drawings

When purchasing, pay attention to the following nuances:

• the same color of the elements of the entire batch;
• integrity of cardboard or film packaging;
• no scratches or chips on the plastic.

Pay special attention to the thickness of the panels. As a rule, ceiling-mounted units are slightly thinner than wall-mounted ones, their average thickness is 8-10 mm, the most reliable is 12.5 mm.

In addition to panels of traditional white Colored plastic is widely used

What materials and tools will be required

In addition to plastic panels for suspended ceilings, you will need a number of materials for the frame and a set of tools:

• starting (carrying) profile;
• connecting H-profile;
• corner (end) F-profile;
• ceiling plinth;
• corners (external and internal).

In the process of drawing up a project, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the layout of the panels and calculate approximately how much consumable material is required. Don’t forget about lamps, wires and fasteners - dowels and screws.

A standard set of tools will most likely be found on the farm; the rest will have to be purchased: a drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw or a circular saw, carpenter's knife.

Mirror panels visually increase the height of the ceiling in the bathroom

Installation instructions for a plastic ceiling

The proposed step-by-step plan is the basis for the construction of a plastic suspended ceiling of the simplest design. It is suitable for decorating a kitchen, bathroom or hallway in a rectangular or square shape. The instructions can be supplemented or slightly changed if required. design solution.

Surface preparation and marking

Preparatory work consist of removing everything unnecessary from the surface of the ceiling - old paint, fragments of plaster. If there are large cracks, they must be filled with putty. Concrete plates in rooms with high level humidity should be treated with a composition against mold and mildew.

Then, using a level and tape measure, you need to make markings for the guide profile. The distance from the ceiling surface to the starting level is at least 10 cm, and preferably 12-15. The height of the ceilings will noticeably decrease; it is for this reason that it is not recommended to install suspended structures in typical panel and brick housing with a ceiling height of 2 m 50 cm.

Finished frame from a guide and ceiling profile in the bathroom

Installation of a profile box

A correctly mounted profile frame is a guarantee of long service and reliability of the suspended structure. The procedure for installing a box made of a metal profile (the lathing made of wooden slats is attached according to the same principle):

1. We drill holes for dowels in the walls and fix the guide profile.
2. We connect the parts together with special fasteners - “bugs”.
3. We attach the suspensions to the ceiling - in a straight line, at intervals of 50-55 cm.
4. We mount it to the suspensions ceiling profile, on which the plastic panels will be attached.

If necessary, if the room is more than 4 meters long, we extend the profile in sections using longitudinal connectors or simply fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Fastening plastic panels with pre-installed spotlights

Installation of plastic panels

The final stage, which should be performed slowly and very carefully. We free each part from the film and, if necessary, cut off the excess part using a grinder. You can work with a hacksaw or jigsaw, but in this case the process will be delayed. The length of each panel should be 4-5 mm shorter than the length of the room. We sand the edges and fasten them to the profile with self-tapping screws.

From the following panels, folded end to end, we assemble a smooth canvas. For glossy parts, the seams will be barely noticeable; for elements with a pattern, they will appear more clearly. There will be small grooves between the thin slats. We cut off the last part according to the width of the remaining space.

Standard layout of plastic panels

We cut out the holes for the lamps with a knife; the wiring to them was laid during the installation of the frame. Spotlights come in different sizes and designs, so it will not be difficult to choose models that are suitable specifically for your type of ceiling. We cover the edges of the plastic sheet with a frieze or corner.

The result of your efforts will be a beautifully designed suspended structure that will disguise all the shortcomings of the old ceiling.

Video selection: installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels